Is it necessary to pick rose buds? How to prune roses after flowering in the summer so they bloom again. Pruning climbing roses

In the photo: gorgeous varieties of English roses

Good afternoon, dear rose growers, lovers of refined beauty! Today we will talk about how it is produced summer pruning roses after they bloom and what to do so that the buds themselves stay on the branch longer.

The main purpose of summer pruning- eliminate wilted flowers in a timely manner so that the plant blooms again. Believe me, you should not leave inflorescences on the bush whose petals have already begun to fall.

If you prune correctly, you can get from the bush in one season maximum quantity large, juicy rosebuds. Here it is important to understand what you want - a lot of small things or optimally large buds.

How to prune faded roses?

Roses that bloom in clusters, and these are floribundas, climbing climbers and scrubs, we cut off the brushes completely, above 2-3 leaves below it.

It is better to cut so that the petiole of the leaf, above which the brush is trimmed, extends outwards and not into the bush.

Pruning bush and border roses

Illustration from a book on roses

In hybrid tea roses, which will bear 1 flower on the trunk, after flowering in the first half of summer, cut the trunk to 3-4 leaves above the ground. This method stimulates the growth of new root shoots, which can bloom again during the remaining time. You can prune floribunda roses in the same way.

Rose pruning scheme - what to cut and how much to cut

In the second half of summer, basal shoots are undesirable, since they will not be able to strengthen and ripen until the fall. So at this time, only flowers should be removed.

If you have climbing roses“ramblers”, which bloom on second-year shoots, then after flowering it is necessary to remove the ovary to the first leaf. In addition to the fact that this will alleviate the condition of the bush, this event will promote branching, and therefore future more abundant flowering.

It is best to cut the flower 5-10 mm above the bud, which will continue to grow and produce flowers.

If your roses are large-flowered, then you need to cut off the stem, along with one five-leaf clover. This important point, these are the steps that will encourage the roses to continue blooming.

Summing up

Regular pruning of faded buds will allow you to get significantly better results both in terms of volume and number of flowers on the rose. If you live in the country in the summer, then it will be easier to control fading flowers, which means you can fully enjoy the game of life in the embodiment of a rose bush!

Video on the topic

In conclusion, I offer a video from the Dela Ogorodnye channel, which clearly shows the pruning process and provides additional information on the process of correcting roses.

If you start growing roses, be prepared for such an important procedure as pruning after flowering. Thanks to it, plants develop and bloom better. To make the procedure go smoothly, we will share with you a few tricks.

Pruning roses allows you to rejuvenate the plant and strengthen it root system, improve metabolism and thereby launch abundant flowering. In addition, after this procedure, the bush acquires an aesthetic appearance and better tolerates winter frosts. Plants that have been pruned have increased resistance to diseases and pests.

In order for all of the above to come true, you need to do the pruning correctly. If this is your first time doing this, don't be afraid to make a mistake. Of course, not everything can work out right away, but over time you yourself will teach beginners. All that remains is to arm yourself quality tools and information about the needs of pruned plants!

Rose pruning tools

Before you start pruning, prepare all the necessary tools. Remember that they must be clean, sharp and dry to ensure that the roses remain healthy after the procedure. Be sure to wear thick gloves that will protect your hands from thorns. To work with large bushes, wear long sleeves and thick pants. As for the inventory itself, you will need:

• bypass pruner - for live and dry thin shoots;
• pruning shears with an anvil - only for dry branches;
• lopper or garden saw - for thick living shoots.

You may also need knee pads to keep your clothes from getting dirty when trimming thick dead shoots, and a small rake for clearing up fallen leaves.

Rules for pruning roses

You can start pruning in August or September. It is better to choose a sunny and windless day. The main goal is to remove faded buds, weak, diseased and fattening shoots. It is also worth thinning out the center of the bush so that more light and air enter it, and cut some of the healthy shoots into cuttings for subsequent propagation.

Remove faded roses immediately, without waiting for the petals to fall. This way the bush will retain its strength for flowering. Moreover, for large-flowered roses, the stem with a flower, incomplete leaves and 1-2 five-fold leaves is cut off. And in multi-flowered plants, the entire inflorescence is above the first leaf.

It is important to make the correct cuts, which will allow the plant to recover faster. The cut and its edges should be even and smooth. The angle of inclination is 45 degrees, the distance from the kidney upward is approximately 5 mm. Dead shoots need to be trimmed until the shoot inside turns white. Also remove all thin shoots and shoots, they only prevent the bush from gaining strength for flowering. Correct option The cut is shown in the diagram below.

Cut weak shoots firmly, large shoots with less force. And don’t be afraid to cut off the excess, the plant will quickly recover!

Treat large sections with disinfectants (for example, RanNet paste, BlagoSad putty), garden varnish or charcoal to avoid infection. Small cuts up to 5 mm in length will quickly heal on their own, so you don’t have to coat them with anything. Be sure to remove cut shoots and leaves around the bush to prevent rotting.

Now let’s look at the rules for pruning popular groups of roses.

If each shoot is crowned with a glass, you have a hybrid tea rose. It usually blooms on the current year's cuttings and requires careful pruning into a ball shape.

Feel free to cut strong branches in half, thin branches - higher, by 2-3 internodes or one third of the length of the shoot. Also be sure to remove or shorten weak shoots that grow inside the bush.

Floribunda roses are characterized by abundant and slow flowering. They are more unpretentious than hybrid tea roses, although they were obtained by crossing the latter with polyanthus varieties.

The bush must bloom completely before pruning. Then carefully cut off the faded inflorescences. Shorten thick shoots by half, leaving 3-5 buds, and young shoots by one third, so that up to 10 buds remain. This will prevent the plant from becoming too depleted after pruning. Cut out the old shoots in the middle of the bush completely.

If you do not prune the floribunda, the bush will grow with weak stems and small flowers.

Scrubs are universal and are used for both vertical and horizontal gardening. Their peculiarity: flower buds are mainly located on the upper part of the shoot.

Depending on the variety, pruning may vary, so you will have to rely a little on your intuition as you work to maintain the natural shape of the bush. Leave 3-5 of the strongest shoots on the entire bush, and 6-8 developed buds on them. Shorten the shoots by one quarter or a third, dry shoots - completely. Leave evenly spaced healthy shoots intact. Also prune thin, watery stems to prevent them from freezing during frosts.

There is no need to trim the rose hips. For thinning, you can use the same technology as for bush roses (scrubs).

Ground cover roses differ from their relatives by spreading shoots along the ground, which look great along paths and in the foreground of flower beds.

In autumn, plants also need pruning. Weak and diseased branches and old shoots must be removed. It is enough to shorten strong shoots a little. Lateral branches, on which there was flowering, cut off 2-3 buds. Also remove all side stems that deprive the rose of its decorative effect.

There should be no intersecting shoots in the center of the bush. If there are any, they will also have to be trimmed.

Climbing, or climbing, roses require regular pruning. They bloom in the second year, so no pruning is done in the first year. U flowering plants at the end of August or beginning of September, cut off all diseased shoots, and shorten those that were blooming by 3 buds. Cut off old branches heavily, leaving 30 cm from the level of the root collar.

There are 2 types of climbing roses: ramblers and climbers, the pruning of which has some differences.

Ramblers have thin and flexible shoots, like grapes. The plant blooms on last year's shoots with a scattering of small flowers.

After flowering, cut out the shoots with buds completely, and pinch out the unripe ones. Trim very carefully, otherwise the plant may not bloom again. There are different types of ramblers:

• once flowering: when pruned, 6-10 strong shoots are left, 3-5 annual and biennial shoots each; the timing of the main pruning is the end of summer;
• re-blooming: when pruning, 1-3 annual and 3-7 biennial shoots are left; The main pruning is carried out in the spring.

Climbers are hybrids of ramblers with other varieties of roses. The plants are distinguished by thicker shoots and large flowers.

Climbers are repeat-blooming roses and tolerate pruning well. It is better to tie up young specimens so that they have time to grow shoots. And a few years after planting, faded climbers are pruned. In this case, the shoots are cut by a third, sometimes by a quarter, removing only the very top. If there are old shoots, then only one, the oldest one, is completely removed.

Polyantha roses are compact and highly branched shrubs with paniculate inflorescences.

They bloom until late autumn, so they are usually pruned in the spring, shortening strong shoots by one third, as shown in the diagram. But if there are damaged and diseased branches, it is better to get rid of them right now! Also remove thickening shoots from the center to enhance the flowering of the bush. In total, after pruning there should be 7-8 strong main branches left.

Rose seedlings in containers and open ground do not need pruning.

Now you know how to properly prune your favorite roses. Only regular care will allow the plants to show themselves in all their glory, so quickly pick up the pruning shears and get to work!

Proper pruning of roses determines not only the beauty of their flowering, but also the health of the bush, as well as its life expectancy. Of course, in old parks no one has been pruning these plants for decades, and they are doing well, but such tangled thickets look completely unaesthetic. And in most private gardens there is not much space, so it is impossible to do without pruning roses.

Experienced gardeners know that pruning small ones is relatively easy, but working with larger specimens is not a pleasant task. The thorns catch and scratch, the long shoots are intertwined in such a way that it is very difficult to pull them out individually, and some of them do not give in at all, no matter how hard you pull them. It is known that there are garden roses, which have never been touched by a knife or pruning shears.

But also in natural conditions The rose undergoes “natural” pruning: caterpillars eat leaves and tops of shoots, roe deer feast on soft stems, depriving the rose bush of the opportunity to bloom. Various animals eat and damage the shoots, and sometimes the plant dies as a result forest fire. However, a garden is a creation of man, and it must correspond to his ideas, regardless of what they are in each special case. For a rose, this means that it will not have to grow, wading through the impenetrable jungle of rotten bushes, infected and infested with pests.

On the contrary, in the garden these plants are expected to flower intensively and meet certain beauty standards. Therefore, you simply must take care of the crops. In addition, garden roses in a flower garden have little in common with wild related species.

You will get information about when is the best time and how to prune roses in the garden correctly. detailed information in this material.

Should roses be pruned and when is the best time to do it?

Naturally, excessively diligent pruning will not lead to anything good. It is necessary to prune roses, but this should not become an end in itself. No one needs pruning in itself. It makes sense only in conjunction with a specific purpose. For this reason, roses must be pruned different times and in various ways.

So, when should roses be pruned in order to meet all the conditions? When to use a pruner or hacksaw:

• At . Remove damaged shoots and roots to make it easier for the plant to take root in its new location.
• Stimulating the growth of new shoots in order to produce the maximum possible number of new flowers. Old and dead woody stems should not interfere with the growth of new, fresh shoots.
• Prevention or prevention of diseases, pests.
• If you want to influence the flowering period or achieve a certain form of growth.
• If the rose grows unevenly or if the plant is damaged: fracture or frost damage. Regulatory pruning will help you shape your plant and ensure its health.
• Formation of root shoots on a grafted rootstock during the growing season. Root shoots must be removed.
• If you need roses for .
• If there is not enough space in the garden.
• If you have purchased a garden that you have not looked after for a long time. Perhaps there are roses growing there that have not been pruned for many years, and you want to return them to their former aristocracy.

So, no one has any doubts about whether roses need to be pruned. Optimal time Rose pruning cannot be determined by a calendar. On the one hand, pruning must be done at a strictly defined time, on the other hand, they can suggest the ideal moment external factors. Luckily, nature offers many options.

When deciding individually the question of when to prune roses, you should remember that this is done not at the final stage of the plant’s life, but at its beginning. Pruning stimulates further planned development of the plant. You can prune roses in spring in early March or even mid-April. In any case, before pruning a garden rose, the moment should be chosen so as to protect the plant from possible severe frosts. It is because of them that roses often die, especially if they were pruned too late last fall.

If the weather after pruning is warm, this will provoke active growth fresh shoots. And if frost hits, then active fresh shoots, like the plant itself, may die.

But the reason for the death or damage of the plant is not its poor frost resistance, but untimely pruning.

To prune roses correctly, as I advise experienced gardeners, you will have to continuously remove old inflorescences and root shoots. Timely removal of old inflorescences provokes the rapid appearance of new ones.

If wild shoots are plucked or trimmed in a timely manner, the plant will not suffer much and will not spend extra energy on restoring health.

How to properly prune garden roses of once-blooming varieties? In this case, it is recommended to wait until the flowering period ends. This way you can create conditions for fresh main shoots to develop next year. in the best possible way. A plant that is densely covered with foliage is more difficult to prune, so such specimens are rarely pruned.

When pruning cut flowers, you will have to be observant and wait for the moment when the rose in the vase reaches its peak of development and resort to some tips so that it lasts as long as possible, maintaining its freshness.

Rules for pruning roses for beginners: stimulating growth (with video)

The plant always reacts in a certain way to pruning with pruning shears or a hacksaw. Therefore, as practice shows, pruning rose bushes must be done consciously and purposefully. Pruning disrupts the balance of the plant's water and nutrient supply system. After pruning, the balance between the volume of roots and the number of above-ground shoots changes. The plant needs time to adjust to the change. After pruning, the buds that were previously in the center or at the base of the shoot - the so-called axillary buds - appear at its top.

When studying the rules for pruning roses, novice gardeners should remember that stimulating the growth of shoot tips primarily accelerates the development of axillary buds. And the development of the kidneys located below is inhibited. They can also be at rest.

This state is supported by inhibitors that form at the top and go down.

As you can see in the photo, after pruning the shoots of roses, the buds that are at the top begin to develop:

In most cases, this impulse concerns not only the buds at the very top, but also those located below. In nurseries, specialists regularly remove shoot tips to produce strong plants with as many shoots as possible. Without such treatment, many varieties would produce only one flowering shoot that grew at the grafting site. The younger the pruned shoot, the sooner the buds that were previously located below will germinate and thereby compensate for the losses of the plant.

However, inhibitors may further inhibit the growth of fresh shoots from the upper buds. In addition, these substances are formed in the leaves, in the axils of which the buds are located. This problem can be solved: remove such leaves immediately after pruning. This will speed up the growth of fresh shoots.

Please note that the growth rate of fresh shoots depends on the location of the bud: The further the dormant buds are from the top, the slower the fresh shoots grow.

Watch the video of rose pruning for beginners to better imagine how this agricultural technique is performed:

In the next section of the article you can see photos and read a description of pruning roses depending on the place where these plants are planted.

How to properly prune roses depending on where they grow

Rules for pruning roses also depend on the place of growth. For example, they play an important role climatic conditions. Maritime climate affects plant development differently than continental. Growing conditions in the surrounding area Lake Constance completely different from, for example, at the foot of the Ore Mountains. In an area where severe frosts are common, one must constantly take care to ensure that the plants do not freeze. Methods for pruning roses in areas where the last severe frost occurs in February differ from those where the arrival of cold weather in April does not surprise anyone.

Conditions can vary even within the same garden. Some plants receive the optimal amount sunlight, others are forced to survive in the shade of the house or neighboring plants. Naturally, the latter will produce fewer thin shoots, which must be cut shorter to achieve more intensive growth. The structure and type of soil also greatly influence the development of Rosaceae: the soil can contain a high concentration of humus, be too wet or rich in nutrients, or be poor, such as sandy soil.

The place of growth determines the purpose of use of the plant and dictates how to prune roses correctly. A climbing rose on the wall of a house needs more careful care than one that climbs along a tree trunk. And not only because caring for a rose on a tree is more difficult.

In the end, the plant’s resistance to diseases and pests depends on the place of growth.

If any misfortune occurs, the victim can be helped. To do this, you should take measures and correctly, promptly prune the affected parts of the plant, thereby preventing the spread of the infection.

This photo shows how to prune roses depending on where the bushes grow:

The relationship between pruning and feeding roses

“What is the connection between fertilizing and pruning?” you ask. And the answer lies on the surface.

Never forget that nature is not content simple principle"Not really". Many factors act together, complementing each other. One of these factors is fertilizing, or supplying the plant with a sufficient amount of nutrients. After pruning, we expect the rapid formation of healthy, fresh shoots. For this, the plant needs a whole complex of appropriate nutrients. A novice amateur gardener expects rapid growth immediately after landing, which is very reckless.

First, roots must form that can ensure intensive shoot growth. If the soil is well prepared, fertilizing is not necessary. Rather, it will hinder growth, since fertilizing increases the concentration of salt in the soil.

And this negatively affects the plant’s water supply. In addition, a young rose is unlikely to need a rich complex of nutrients, since at this moment its above-ground part is not yet so developed as to require enhanced nutrition.

And here is the feeding own root roses nutrients after spring pruning is very useful, but the degree of fertilizing must strictly correspond to the size of the plant.

An overdose of nutrients, in particular an overdose of nitrogen, entails the risk of the formation of too large shoots. It is possible that such shoots will grow underdeveloped and become vulnerable to certain diseases. To overcome them, the plant will have to be pruned additionally.

The effect of nutrient deficiency is the formation of a small number of thin shoots with small flowers. Grow strong and healthy plants on a weak “foundation” is impossible. You will have to trim the shoots of rose bushes not in the correct way, but so that at least some healthy fresh growth appears on them, that is, shorter and shorter.

How to prune roses correctly: height, direction and length of the shoot

The next point that you need to understand before properly pruning roses is the optimal height, cutting direction and shoot length.

Roses are pruned differently than other woody plants: shoots are not cut directly above the bud. Parts of the shoot about 2-3 mm long dry out after pruning. If you cut the shoot directly at the bud, the sprouts will not appear at all or will not be viable. There is no point in waiting for something strong and healthy to grow here.

The cutting point should be no higher than 5 mm from the kidney. A greater distance is unprofitable, since the shoot will dry out greatly and spoil appearance plants and weaken his immune system.

It is necessary to cut in the direction from the bud and at an angle.

Sometimes it can be difficult to find buds on woody tissue. They are almost impossible to see. Sometimes it makes sense to look on the stem for the place where the base of the leaf was once located - it looks like an oblique dark scar. The kidney is located directly above this place. If necessary, roses are pruned additionally after the buds have sprouted.

The next relationship concerns the intensity of pruning and the length of the shoot after it. If you cut short and leave few buds on the shoot, they will produce fewer fresh long shoots. If you prune smaller, you will end up with a lot of short, fresh shoots. Using knowledge consciously, it is possible to balance the development of varieties with different growth rates. But achieving a complete balance here will not be possible.

You can grow a small number of roses on long stems or many flowers on short stems. Pruning also allows you to balance the growth of shoots that develop at different rates, meaning you can stimulate or slow down their growth. Moreover, pruning helps to maintain or limit the development of a particular variety.

Tool for pruning roses in the garden

A quality tool is important for both the plant and the gardener. Those who have had to trim vigorous stems before know how difficult it can be and understand the value of a good tool.

The force applied, the comfort of the tool and the load on the tendons are the main criteria for choosing a tool. The first calluses on your hands will make you wonder if an expensive pair of pruners is the best option in the long run.

Young woody shoots with a soft core are sensitive to stress, and their woody shell is initially relatively thin.

Later, the volume of the core decreases, and the shoots themselves become more massive, especially in roses. Such woody shoots are much harder and can be trimmed without extra effort it won't work.

In any case, it is important to use a sharp and well-adjusted tool. A dull pruner cuts inaccurately and injures the plant.

In extreme cases, it tears the bark. The gap between the blades of the pruning shears leads to the fact that the tool can jam and the cut will be of poor quality. It turns out that forces are wasted ineffectively, and, moreover, under such conditions, the cutting part of the tool may simply break, unable to withstand the load. Naturally, this primarily concerns cheap instruments.

High-quality sharpening of the tool is very important for flawless pruning of plants. When re-sharpening, the blade should be sharpened on one side only, which is how most tools on the market today are sharpened. A good pruning shears can always be recognized by the quality of its sharpening. Its blades remain sharp over a long period of use.

Ordinary pruning shears are not suitable for trimming massive perennial shoots. Here it is better to use pruning shears or a hacksaw. However, a regular hacksaw is also hardly suitable for cutting closely spaced shoots. A small folding saw will help here. It fits comfortably in the hand and cuts perfectly.

Spring pruning of roses of different groups

In spring, roses produce their strongest shoots. The gardener’s task is to create conditions for lush flowering. Trim off any shoots that look suspicious, that is, those that can cause disease or attract pests. The bushes should not look too massive, but slender and elegant. In other words, their appearance should bring joy. That's why you grow them.

Of course, roses bloom without spring pruning. True, they look like rose hips, which no one really cares for. If roses are not pruned, then many varieties of roses grow taller, but they do not have dense foliage below, and this looks rather sparse. Without pruning, you will also have to forget about the health of the plant, since fresh shoots will not appear from underground.

Tips for pruning can be found in every rose care manual, sometimes they are so varied and complex. It would be good to remember that nature does not ask our opinion about which rose should survive winter frosts and which should not, which should be frozen more strongly and which should not be touched at all. It is clear that there are too many benefits detailed instructions A little. Much more tangible benefits come from understanding cause-and-effect relationships and accumulating your own experience.

The next section of the article provides tips for pruning roses in spring for beginning gardeners.

Pruning roses in spring for beginners (with video)

Winter is over, frosts are no longer expected. It's time to work in the garden. When you first look at rose bushes that need pruning, there is something akin to bewilderment. After all, how can you calmly look at this terrible web of many intertwined shoots, studded with thorns? This is absolute chaos in which it is impossible to restore order. However, a systematic approach to tidying up will help you cope with a task that at first glance seems insurmountable.

This means that you need to cut to healthy tissue. Dead tissue is sometimes difficult to recognize immediately. Therefore, first the shoot must be cut to green bark. But in most cases this is not enough.

The next step is to inspect the core. If it is greenish-white, the cut location is correct. If it is brownish, you will have to trim more.

After a harsh winter with late frosts and warm periods in between, it is difficult to detect all the plant's problems with a quick inspection. Later, during pruning, the damaged shoots may seem quite healthy, but in fact they are not - these shoots will soon die. After some time, they will need to be trimmed again.

You may find remnants of shoots that were pruned last year. Such shoots either do not have buds at all, or they are located on them so poorly that the plant simply does not have enough strength to sprout healthy shoots. Dried remains of shoots not only spoil the appearance of the rose, but also attract diseases and pests. They need to be cut back to the next closest branch point.

You cannot do without pruning shears in case of illness or pest infestation. If you find stems without a pith, then know: this is the work of the roseate descending burner.

Only trimming the shoot to healthy tissue can help here. The same goes for bark cancer. If you do not trim on time, the disease will “circle” the shoot, and all living things on it will die.

Already in February, bright yellow rust spores can often be seen on the stems of roses, with certain varieties suffering from it more than others. Don't waste time and immediately trim off any diseased shoots to prevent the spread of spores. The result is healthy roses and much less plant protection work in the summer.

The next step is to remove all the shoots that grow inside the bush, intersect and interfere with each other. Finally, it is necessary to trim off weak shoots on which fresh growth will not appear.

Old shoots that will no longer bloom luxuriantly should be cut back to the ground or to fresh, healthy shoots below that grow outward. As soon as the shoot grows and becomes thicker, the surface of the wound will need to be treated with a special agent.

Shoots at the grafting site growing from the rootstock that were not pruned last year must be completely removed.

That's it. Trimming is complete. The rose bush looks slender and neat again.

Now watch the video of proper pruning of roses in spring:

How to prune roses in spring for rejuvenation (with photo)

You often see roses behind which for many years no one cared. They look like impenetrable wild bushes. The first reaction upon seeing such “beauty” is the desire to dig up the plant and remove it out of sight. Many people believe that old plants are hopeless, and behind them, that is, healthy pruning, is a waste of time. If the gardener believes that such a rose has a chance to bloom and delight others with its beauty, he decides to improve the health of the plant. In addition, it may be a rare variety that costs a lot of money or is no longer sold at all.

There are no rules that say roses should be dug up and replaced with others after they reach a certain age. If roses grow in optimal location, they maintain beauty and health for many years. Thus, trying to bring an unkempt rose into bloom makes sense.

How to properly prune old roses in spring to rejuvenate the bushes? You need to start with the same steps as when spring pruning. First, remove dead, diseased, damaged branches. If you find fresh shoots near the ground, use them to re-form the plant.

Other shoots that are likely to get sick frequently should be trimmed short or removed completely using a hacksaw. Since all varieties are different, you need to prune them in the spring as much as your experience suggests. Ideally, shoots are shortened to 20 cm; shoots of climbing and bush roses are left longer.

It is very difficult to look for axillary buds on old branches. Just cutting by eye will not work here. In any case, there are dormant buds on old branches. They wake up after pruning and sprout. Of course, compared to young branches, sprouts on old ones appear much later.

These photos show how to prune roses in spring:

How to properly prune roses in the summer after the first flowering (with video)

After the first main flowering, roses either do not bloom at all, or bloom rather poorly. Most varieties re-bloom around late August to mid-September, but only after fresh growth has grown for the second time in a year. Repeat blooms are usually luxurious. Depending on the variety, some roses lose their petals at the end of this period, while for others, on the contrary, the old flowers remain on the bush for a long time.

The petals of some double roses tend to stick together, especially in rainy, humid weather, which looks very unimportant, especially in comparison with their former beauty.

Before properly pruning roses after the first flowering in the summer, make sure exactly which variety grows on your site. There are varieties whose flowers or stems quickly dry out and break off, and there are also those on which many fruits grow. They are also called “false fruits.” They can be a wonderful decoration autumn garden, if their color becomes brighter by this time. They also look wonderful in a vase.

First of all, this applies to many varieties of bush roses. Depending on taste, one person prefers a garden decorated with fruits, while another wants to see a lot of flowers. Science says that the fruits should be removed for stronger flowering, as they cost the plant considerable energy.

Roses with fruits:

Climbing rose variety " Bonica 82» pale pink color.

Climbing rose variety " La Sevillana» color from orange to purple.

Climbing rose variety " Marchenland» color pink.

Climbing rose variety " Masquerade“The color is yellow, closer to autumn it is red.

Climbing rose variety " New Dawn» color pink.

Shrub rose variety " Scharlachglut"The color is crimson, with a yellow eye.

Climbing rose variety " The Queen Elisabeth Rose» color pink.

Watch the video on how to prune roses in the summer after flowering to correctly perform all the techniques:

Summer pruning of roses for re-blooming

Repeated flowering depends on summer pruning of roses. The eyes at the top of the shoot sprout faster than those located at the base. Thus, a plant that is cut short will bloom later than one that is not cut too short.

In addition, light pruning does not affect the density of foliage, which the rose needs for assimilation, that is, for nutrition through photosynthesis. You will also have to break off the stem that holds the flower.

If you look at it more closely, you can see that the upper buds (one or two) are very poorly developed. They are located in the axils of leaves that have not yet fully formed and have not acquired all the feathery leaves.

These undeveloped buds are not able to produce fast-growing and strong fresh shoots and thereby guarantee flowering. Therefore, along with the flower or inflorescence, part of the shoot must also be removed. The remaining top sheet should be fully formed. In hybrid tea and climbing roses, the leaf should consist of five feathery leaves. After the first flowering, the shoot must be cut off above the bud, which is located in the axil of the formed leaf.

How to properly prune a rose in the summer to see the second bloom faster? To do this, you will have to stimulate the growth of new shoots, that is, prune. We already know that foliage is needed for photosynthesis, but at the same time, the leaves produce inhibitors that inhibit the premature development of buds in the leaf axils.

Naturally, one should not expect rapid flowering under the influence of inhibitors. In order not to wait until they are neutralized naturally, you can do the following: simply tear off the entire leaf entirely at its base. Thus, the effect of the inhibitors coming from the leaf will stop, and the bud will begin to develop faster.

Most roses are grafted onto the root collar of a rootstock. Depending on the type, variety and planting location, shoots constantly appear on the rootstock. If these shoots are not noticed and removed, they grow and suppress the grafted variety. Root shoots can completely suppress the scion.

It may even happen that one fine day you go out into the garden and instead of a rose you find a rosehip bush there!

As a rule, root shoots are easy to detect. It grows more intensively than the grafted variety and differs from it in the color of foliage and shoots. In most cases, the root shoots are lighter in color. Its leaves are smaller in size than those of hybrid tea or climbing roses, and, in addition, they consist of a larger number of pinnate leaves - from seven to nine. With some bush and climbing roses, in particular those that bloom once, the difference is more difficult to detect, so you need to look more closely.

Cultivars in these groups often have leaves that are very similar in size and number of pinnate leaves to the leaves of the rootstock variety.

Shoots growing from the rootstock must be removed regularly. The sooner the better! When they are still small, they are very easy to tear off. After removal, the site of formation should be cut out clean. In most cases, root growth emerges from underground, from the root. Excavate the place where the growth has formed and completely remove the root shoot.

If you cut off the root growth only on the surface of the soil, then it will not be visible for some time, but its underground part will grow intensively, and then a fresh shoot will grow from it, with two or three additional shoots! It will be much more difficult to remove it.

Please note that the scion has a crown. Everything that grows in the root zone and on the trunk belongs to the rootstock and must be removed. Small shoots on the trunk are easily removed by hand; thicker shoots are trimmed clean with a knife or pruning shears.

Typically, nurseries practice pinching roses with only one shoot at the grafting site. Pinching means shortening the tip of the shoot to 3-5 buds. While the shoots are not woody, they can be plucked with your fingers. The softer the shoot, the sooner its reaction to this intervention will follow: it may even sprout a few fresh shoots from the remaining buds. Thus, roses branch more intensively, and this is a reliable foundation for a good plant shape.

This method of provoking branching can be used later, if after planting the sprouts on several shoots develop unevenly.

The reason for this may be that strong shoots suppress the development of weak ones. In order not to harm the morphology of the plant, you will have to shorten strong shoots and be patient, since this measure will delay the moment of the first flowering by several weeks.

The wait, however, pays off handsomely! After this, the plant will delight you with wonderful flowers for several years. Sometimes it becomes annoying because almost all roses bloom at almost the same time, and the flowering periods themselves are bright, but, alas, short.

Some varieties of rose hips and some related varieties of roses sometimes bloom several weeks before this date, and a number of other varieties a little later. After the period of “flower fireworks”, which depending on the weather can be longer or shorter, the splendor of flowering becomes poorer. And only at the end of summer do young shoots bloom in all their glory. Roses also bloom between these two periods, but not so brightly and en masse.

It happens that the time of some exhibition of small gardening farms or amateur gardeners, a birthday or other important occasion for celebration does not coincide at all with the flowering period. At the same time, the place of the celebration should be buried in a sea of ​​blooming roses!

In a greenhouse, roses can be grown so that they bloom at a certain time, since the “weather” here can be adjusted.

But it is impossible to control frost and heat, humidity and aridity outside the greenhouse. However, pruning can have a significant impact on plant development.

In a private garden, you can use the following trick: using pruning, you can decisively influence the flowering period of the rose.

If you prune roses in summer as described above, then you can expect lush flowering in six weeks.

Early varieties also bloom after pruning ahead of schedule. And the blossoms late varieties with a different biological rhythm you have to wait longer. If you remove the tops of soft shoots that have not yet fully formed, you can reduce the waiting time for flowering to four or five weeks.

If the shoot is already woody and you cut it shorter, then flowers will appear on it later.

If you have enough time, you can plant test plant, care for it properly and learn to influence the flowering period. Just gain experience and master the technique of “regulating” flowering well.

Pruning roses in summer to protect plants

It’s strange, but when it comes to diseases and pests, a debate immediately flares up about what means of protection to use and whether it is worth using them at all. In this case, as a rule, two aspects are not taken into account:

• Often we ourselves transfer diseases from one cut point to another, working with dirty pruners or a hacksaw.
• Many defects can be prevented without much difficulty by slightly pruning the plant. Additionally, pruning can help prevent disease.

When pruning diseased shoots, it is not always clear whether we have reached healthy tissue or not? Often you have to cut it again, several times.

Pathogens that are on the bark or in the sap stick to the instrument and spread to other shoots and plants. In the worst case, the pruning shears serve not to fight the disease, but to spread it.

You can destroy pathogens, such as fungal spores, using a disinfectant. This precaution is an essential part of gardening. A rule that, unfortunately, is often neglected.

Affected shoots, no matter what - rust, spotting, or - must be cut back to healthy tissue. If rust spores on shoots can only be detected in the spring (remember their striking, bright yellow color), then bark spot and rose sawfly usually affect roses during the growing season. Shoots affected by spotting must be removed in a timely manner, before the disease has “ringed” the shoot, and its part above the “ring” is still alive. You need to react immediately after detecting an infection.

The rose sawfly can be defeated through the systematic use of special chemicals, but no amount of chemistry can save already “drilled” shoots. To protect the plant, only pruning the rose in summer to healthy tissue can help.

For example, this applies to powdery mildew and gray mold. With severe damage to the rose powdery mildew trimming the tips of shoots is more effective than treating infected parts with chemicals.

Flowers affected by gray mold not only look unsightly, but are also sources of infections and diseases. They also need to be removed.

Under no circumstances should you throw cut diseased shoots into the compost, much less leave them lying around in the beds. They must be destroyed to prevent the spread of infection.

What to do with blind shoots?

Remontant varieties consistently produce shoots without flowers and inflorescences. Shoots without flowers are called blind. There are many reasons for this: broken top, insect damage, shock from bad weather, late frosts, lack of sunlight in the shade big trees, lack of nutrients and much more. Sometimes a blind flower bud can be noticed in advance. First it turns yellow and then dies. Some people think that buds do not appear on such shoots at all.

But flower buds appear long before the shoot has fully grown in length. Flower buds form on fresh shoots, the length of which does not exceed a few millimeters, that is, even then it is possible to determine whether the shoot will bloom or not.

Besides, who knows what can happen before the bud opens? Anything can happen in a few weeks, causing the kidney to die.

For a long time, as a rule, before the adventitious buds sprout healthy shoots, the blind shoots remain dormant. In order not to wait too long for flowering, you need to shorten the blind shoots immediately after detection. Blind shoots should be trimmed in the same way as flowering shoots.

In the final section of the article, you will find out whether it is necessary to prune roses in the fall for the winter and whether good reasons to refuse this procedure.

Do I need to prune roses on my property in the fall for the winter?

As a matter of fact, it is better not to touch roses in the fall.

Many “proper” amateur gardeners cannot resist putting things in order in the autumn garden. Long shoots get tangled underfoot and get in the way. In the spring they will still have to be cut, so what are you waiting for?

Besides, in autumn it is damp and cold, and you want to do everything quickly. However, if in the spring it turns out that the roses are damaged, and it is not clear why, you should know: autumn pruning is to blame!

Selected roses do not know what a dormant period is, unlike, for example, deciduous trees.

B competently organized conditions roses grow and bloom all year round. Therefore, it often happens that some garden roses have to be pruned before Christmas. The growth process stops only after the onset of cold weather. By the way, the necessary resistance of the plant to frost also begins to develop only at sub-zero temperatures.

If you are still in doubt whether you should prune your roses garden plot for the winter, then the good reasons for refusing the autumn procedure are listed below.

If you prune a rose bush in the fall, the same thing will happen to the plant as after spring or summer pruning: the buds will become active, even if it is impossible to notice. In the worst case, if the autumn is warm, the buds may sprout.

It is worth remembering that roses wake up at a minimum positive temperature. And winter frosts, sometimes without snow, are dangerous for an unprepared plant that has not hardened properly. Because of this, the rose may die, even if the winter is relatively mild.

If a rose survives winter, this does not mean that there are risks autumn pruning she is no longer afraid. The rose is a plant that is one of the first to wake up from winter sleep and sprouts from the buds at the tops of the shoots.

Late frosts during this period are destructive for the plant.

If a rose bush that has not been pruned in the fall starts to sprout, then late frosts pose a much lesser danger to it, since these shoots will have to be pruned in the spring one way or another. Therefore, in the fall, the bush can only be trimmed, especially if the “mess” prevents you from sleeping peacefully.

The solution to the question of whether or not to prune roses in the fall has no of great importance. In any case, only soft, immature shoots need to be removed. By the way, they can bloom. Flowers with frost look as if they were covered with sugar icing. A wonderful decoration for the autumn garden that is hard to miss.

The situation is slightly different with standard roses. Before bending a standard rose to the ground, you need to remove all soft unripe parts of the shoots, remaining flower buds and fruit bases from the bush in order to prevent the plant from rotting winter period.

Throughout the year, most rose bushes need repeated pruning: in spring, summer and autumn. All warm time Every year you need to do sanitary pruning: broken, diseased, old or simply excess shoots and leaves are constantly removed so that they do not take away the strength of the plant. Roses must be pruned after flowering to stimulate new growth and maintain the decorative appearance of the bush. Let's take a closer look at how to properly prune roses after flowering, and how pruning varietal roses should be carried out in accordance with the rules; it has its differences depending on the season and the variety of flowers.

Roses are the most famous, delightful and beautiful flowers. They are able to transform any place in a few seconds, making it romantic, fabulous and mysterious. They look great both on clubs and in a vase. However, in order for this plant to delight us with its beautiful appearance and rich flowering, it needs to create necessary conditions, in which they would feel comfortable.

It should also be taken into account that a large role in caring for roses need to pay them pruning , as this preserves the viability of plants. Plus, this will give the bush the desired shape, speed up its growth and have a beneficial effect on the abundance of flowering. It is precisely because of this that the competent pruning simply necessary for your roses .

Types of Rose Pruning

There are 4 types of pruning, each of them has its own effect on roses. So:

• Average. Do it for 7 kidneys. Thanks to it, decorativeness is ensured.
• Strong. Do it at the level of 4 buds from the base of the shoot. But keep in mind that it is used for weakened bushes as a last chance.
• Combined. This is the most popular type of pruning, thanks to which flowering resumes very quickly.
• Weak. Used to remove faded inflorescences.

According to experts, pruning roses after flowering should be minimal. You must remove the inflorescences up to the first developed bud and, of course, the faded flowers. It is very important to consider the type of roses.

So, for example, for those plants that bloom in clusters, you need to trim the clusters under the 3rd leaf. Plus, pruning is best done on outdoor soil.

As for floribunda and hybrid tea roses, here you need to leave 3 leaves above the soil level.

If your roses bloom late and new shoots do not have time to bloom, then remove only faded flowers. But for “rambler” roses you need to remove the brushes down to the first leaf.

Important rules for pruning roses

When pruning roses, be sure to follow these rules:

1. Trimming should only be done with sharp scissors. This will help avoid torn cuts.
2. Be sure to wash the instrument in hot water and disinfect.
3. Be sure to remove diseased, weak and dead shoots.
4. Also gently cut off growths that have thick, long hairs.

As you can see, pruning roses after flowering – easy work. However, be sure to follow all recommendations, as the appearance of the plant depends on this.

Pruning roses - how to do it correctly?

By pruning we stimulate the appearance of new buds. To prune a rose correctly, you need to cut at the outer bud. We are looking for a well-developed leaf, retreat 0.5 cm above the leaf and trim at 45 degrees. In this case, our bush will be correctly formed, the rose will be able to breathe, we will minimize the risk of diseases, because the bush will be well ventilated.

Rose bushes, like most garden crops, need pruning and care. Before pruning roses after flowering, it is necessary to determine their class. In total, there are over 30 groups, differing in the size of the bush and flower, the shape and color of the petals. Not all of them take root summer cottages due to capricious temperament, abundance of thorns or minimal winter hardiness.

The culture of caring for ornamental plants is rooted in centuries-old history. For example, the first mention of crown-forming pruning was found in Persian scrolls of the Achaemenid dynasty. Ruler Teisp, who had a weakness for roses, was known as a famous collector of these flowers. In the royal gardens there were more than 25 types of rose bushes, the care of which was entrusted to several gardeners. Among other duties, servants were required to cut buds for the royal palace and keep the bushes clean and fresh.

The most common types found in home gardens are:

1. Hybrid tea roses with single buds, a tree-like crown and rod-type rhizomes, in conditions middle zone They begin to bloom at the end of June, buds continue to form until the first frost.
2. Climbing with elongated shoots, externally resembling vines. They are classified according to bud parameters into large-flowered and small-flowered.
3. Floribunda are bush roses, the buds of which are collected in lush inflorescences.

Whatever option is chosen for the garden, only a properly pruned plant will delight you with an attractive exterior and lush fragrance throughout the season.

Variety from the Floribunda group

Modern gardeners know various technologies trimmings. Each of them corresponds to the class of the plant, its age, and time of year. Regular cleaning is necessary for:

• maintaining bush hygiene - removing diseased shoots to light wood;
• ensuring crown aeration - cleaning from internal branches, lateral shoots;
• plant rejuvenation - removal of skeletal branches and dried trunks;
• crown formation to maintain decorativeness.

There are several degrees of pruning:

Hybrid teas are cut using strong or moderate technology.

Floribunda is suitable for combined pruning. Some branches are shortened to 5-7 buds, which ensures early flowering bush. The remaining shoots are pruned to 3-4 buds to slow down growth and postpone budding to a later date. This technique allows you to double the flowering time.

Climbing representatives do not tolerate frequent haircuts. For this class of plants, annual pinching of up to 8-12 buds and heavy pruning is carried out once every 3-4 years. At the same time, the bush is cleaned of aged branches.

It should be noted that faded rose buds must be collected and disposed of. Material left in the immediate vicinity of a bush is a breeding ground for pathogenic microflora and the cause of fungal diseases in the garden.

How to prune bushes after the first wave of flowering is described in the video.

Types of pruning garden roses

In spring, summer and autumn, the rose garden needs careful and regular care. There are several trimming options:

• shaping - giving the bush an aesthetic shape;
• supporting - pruning young growth to avoid thickening of the crown;
• sanitary – cleaning of affected and diseased branches and leaves;
• stimulating - removal of part of the shoot to stimulate growth and development;
• rejuvenating - removing part of the crown to allow new shoots to appear.

In spring, the plant needs sanitary and rejuvenating cleaning. Rejuvenation is carried out in order to stimulate the growth and development of fresh growth on an aging plant. Sanitary - for the purpose of improving the health of the bush. Often these trimmings are combined in one procedure. After clearing the crown of frozen, old, damaged and deformed branches, the rose actively increases its green mass. The result is elegant foliage in May, enlarged buds in June, and abundant flowering in July and August.

This procedure must be carried out annually, starting from the 3rd year of the plant’s life. Optimal time- early March, until sap flow processes were activated in the branches. In the spring, it is important for novice gardeners to learn how to determine the degree of damage to a bush before the buds swell. Branches killed by frost are characterized by increased fragility and blackened “eyes.”

The cut is made at an angle, leaving 0.5-1 cm from the bud

1. The gardener selects skeletal branches that will become the base of the crown.
2. Diseased and deformed shoots are removed using garden tools. Frostbitten and dried trunks are cut down to the roots. Branches are cut under acute angle using pruning shears. The cut areas are wiped with a manganese solution and wrapped with agricultural tape.
3. The remaining branches are shortened in accordance with the class of the rose. An oblique cut is made at an acute angle 0.5-1 cm above the last bud. In this case, the bud itself should look outward to avoid deformation during the growth and development of the shoots. This measure allows to minimize crown thickening.
4. When stimulating pruning, 5 to 8 buds are left on strong shoots, and no more than 3 on weak shoots.

If several branches have grown from one bud, then the strongest one is left. The rest are broken out without waiting for their further growth. The formation of 3-5 shoots from the bud occurs after cutting in a cold, protracted spring.

Are faded buds cut off?

Beginning gardeners are often interested in whether garden roses need to be pruned after the first flowering. It is better not to do this on young bushes, since during its life the plant must go through the entire vegetative period at least once: from the swelling of the buds to the ripening of the seeds. This increases the plant's immune powers.

In the future, summer pruning includes the removal of faded buds. The cut is made above the upper five-leaf leaf from the flower brush. If it is a single flower, then cut under 7-8 leaves. This technology is suitable for bushes that bloom in the first half of summer. At the cutting site, young offspring will hatch, which by the end of the season will have time to ripen and bear new buds.

In the second half of summer, faded roses are not pruned, since the shoots from the perennial will not have time to ripen by autumn. In winter, such shoots freeze out and die, causing damage to the entire bush. Gardeners select withered buds and leaves from the crown without disturbing the branches.

Removing wild growth from garden roses

The side shoots located below the “graft” are wild and are especially dangerous for hybrid roses. Their growth can lead to degeneration of the bush. In this regard, gardeners carefully monitor their appearance and immediately remove them. Otherwise they will completely replace cultivar. You can recognize wild shoots by their light green, narrow foliage and abundance of small thorns. If doubt arises, then the base of the process should be found. After making sure that it originates below the graft, removal is carried out. The cut cannot be left, as this will lead to further growth of the shoots.

Pruning schemes by class of roses

Pruning roses after flowering is universal for all varieties of this crop. Technologies for spring and autumn work differ.

• Hybrid tea and floribunda

For the crown, 6-7 most developed trunks are selected. The rest are removed at the root. The cut areas are filled with varnish to avoid the appearance of overgrowth. Overgrown shoots on these shrubs are cut off by 1/3 due to high annual growth rates. The cut is made at a level of 5 mm above the last bud located outward. This measure allows you to protect roses from freezing even at temperatures from -35°C.

You need to collect faded buds from them in the summer. In autumn, the plant is not pruned or cleaned. Overgrown shoots are removed from the racks and carefully placed in a hole until winter. In March, the vines are untied, the lower shoots are removed, and the crown is thinned out to remove weak side shoots. The lashes are shortened to 8-12 buds. The cut is made at a level of 0.5-1 cm above the last bud. The procedure performed will stimulate the process of growth and budding.

Every 5-7 years, climbing roses are pruned to 50 cm from the ground.

• Standard roses

Standard is a type of crown in which the plant has only one trunk. The shape of standard roses imitates medium-sized trees. The haircut is organized taking into account varietal characteristics bush. Most often, no more than 3 buds are left on flowering shoots, and the crown itself is thinned out from branches and foliage growing inside.

Video about formation rules standard rose: do's and don'ts.

Do you need a fall haircut?

When preparing plants for the winter, bushes are also trimmed. The optimal time is the first frost, due to which roses stop producing buds. In autumn, all immature shoots are cleared from the bush (they can be used as planting material) and leaves, flowering branches are shortened. Autumn and spring cleaning can be alternated.

With well-organized work, roses will bloom earlier and look luxurious every year, delighting the gardener and guests with their splendor.