How to preserve climbing roses in the garden in winter. How to cover roses for the winter. Features of sheltering a standard rose

Beautiful rose - whimsical and delicate flower. So that the perennial rose bush pleases with abundant and lush flowering, you need to properly prepare and insulate it in the fall. An uncovered rose will certainly freeze and die in winter. The same thing can happen with a carelessly covered bush. Take care of your beauty and properly insulate her for the winter.

Not all seedlings are equally winter-hardy

Before we talk about insulation methods rose bush for the winter, let's find out some important nuances purchasing plants. Never buy rootstock from unfamiliar sellers! It is not possible to determine by its appearance whether this variety is resistant to cold weather. You should buy seedlings only from trusted suppliers and on recommendation.

When deciding to purchase rose bushes, it is useful to think about the following points:

• varieties of roses Some people tolerate winter more easily, while others hardly tolerate it. This data must be included in the description in the catalog. The most resistant to cold are park roses; they need not be covered at all, and the most demanding of warmth are hybrid teas.
• rose bushes are low- and tall-growing, upright and climbing. Some of them are easier to cover, others are heavier, and others are very energy-consuming. Consider your capabilities;
• planting density. Plants sitting side by side survive better in winter and are easier to cover than individual bushes planted here and there. What’s faster – to build one large, high-quality shelter or several small ones?

Preparing roses for shelter before winter

Before wrapping up your rose bushes, be sure to take some important steps to help them get through the winter relatively comfortably.

Ways to cover roses for the winter

Below are different ways preserving delicate pink shoots. There are different options for different gardeners. Begin covering work in middle lane needed after mid-October, before the first frost.

Air dry

The most practical, but also the most material-intensive. A canopy is built over the bushes from shields or boards; the main requirement for it is to withstand the pressure of snow masses. The edges of the canopy are placed on bricks or timber stumps. On top you need to throw insulating material - polyethylene or non-woven fabric. Along the edges, the covering material is pressed tightly to the ground with bricks. The height of the canopy should be calculated based on the height of the bush. Approximately: for tall climbing roses - up to 80 cm, for short roses - up to 50 cm. The branches can be bent, but so that they do not break.

Read also:

How to prepare roses for winter

Keep in mind that snow itself provides cover. Snowdrifts on top of the canopy will be beneficial, but you will have to throw snow on the sides yourself. In mid-March, it is advisable to rake the snow from above to prevent the plants from overheating. It can also be removed from the sides in order to slightly open the “shelter” for ventilating and hardening the bush.

Cover with spruce branches

Air-dry - the most reliable way save roses in the garden. But not all gardeners have the opportunity to build houses. For many, a cheaper and faster option is suitable - spruce branches. At the end of October, after carrying out the activities described in the table above, you need to stock up on spruce branches and first cover the ground under the bushes with them. The bushes themselves need to be prepared - cut off the leaves and petioles. Then bend the shoots and collect them in one bunch, if possible, or several bunches if they all grow in different sides. Wrap the bunches with twine, secure them to the ground with iron arches, and cover them generously with spruce branches. The structure must be covered with woven material. This method allows air to pass through the shelter, resulting in a reduced risk of infection by fungi and rot. The edges of the non-woven fabric are secured with a weight.

To prevent bent shoots from breaking off at the roots, a support is placed on the ground close to the stem on the bending side - a block, a ball or other bulky thing.

Frame made of arcs or chain-link

For bent climbing roses and for bushes that grow in a row, it is convenient to build a greenhouse from iron arches, gymnastic hoops cut in half or a rectangle of chain-link mesh. First, the ground under the plants is cleared of old leaves and debris and covered with spruce branches. Climbing roses are bent down and fixed, but small upright roses are not touched. Next, on top of the bushes at the same distance, arcs or a mesh are stuck into the ground, which are covered with film, and on top non-woven fabric or roofing felt. The edges are securely fastened.

Do all roses need protection from the cold, are plants covered in parks and squares? Certainly some species have different conditions.

It is not necessary to apply winter shelter methods to the following species:

• park roses;
• winter-hardy varieties;
• rose hips;
• hybrids of alba, rugosa, spinozissima.

The above species are frost-resistant. Usually their flowering occurs only once, their development stops early.

Garden roses, delicate and exquisite, bloom continuously for almost six months, from the onset of hot days in early June, and even until the first frost. They do not have enough time to develop and grow before the onset of cold weather due to the prolonged growth of their shoots.

Almost all existing decorative varieties garden roses it is necessary to cover for the winter, even the most frost-resistant ones - shrubs (shrubs).

How to properly prepare a plant for insulation?

To determine the readiness of rose bushes for shelter you should carefully examine the flower shoots. If in September the color of rose flowers is red or pink, this means that flowering is very active and the plants are not yet prepared for real wintering.

In order to correct this situation, you need to:

• Feeding the bushes with phosphorus fertilizers will lead to rapid greening of the shoots.
• Mark growth points on plant shoots.
• Leave a few wilted flowers - in this situation, the seeds will begin to ripen, which will provide the plant with a sign that it needs to prepare for winter.

Having completed these activities, proceed to the following, which are the final stage of preparing roses for wintering:

• With the onset of autumn, you should stop all work on digging and loosening the soil among the rose bushes and planting new plants.
• In mid-autumn, absolutely all leaves should be removed from the shoots of climbing roses to avoid further rotting of the plant.
• It is not at all necessary to do pruning in the fall; often pink branches should simply be leaned against the ground, but this is not always feasible.

When can you close the bushes?

Regardless of the selection of material for protecting rose bushes, the start of activities should be organized during the first fall of leaves from the trees. Get rid of dried and damaged branches and correct them if desired appearance bush. An important part is the removal of the remaining dry foliage, which is a measure of protection against pests and bacteria that can cause irreparable harm.

It is recommended to pollinate bushes as a disease prevention measure. chemicals to combat fungal diseases and thin out weeds. Leaves that have fallen are completely burned. It is worth starting to implement these actions by preparing the shelter.

It is recommended to cover rose bushes starting from the end of October. Gardeners advise hiding plants for the winter, when a drop in temperature to -4 degrees can be observed for a week.

Is it worth doing this if snow has already fallen on them?

Definitely, it’s worth covering roses. Such a shelter will have its own nuances. You need to take four empty containers and place them in the corners of the rose garden. Place boards on them around the perimeter and crosswise. Cover the constructed structure with durable non-woven material. Roses will overwinter well under such cover.

How to wrap it up?

The most commonly used means at hand are:

• polyethylene film;
• geotextiles;
• lutrasil;
• spandbond;
• spruce branches;
• dry leaves;
• hard, rough fabric;
• thick blanket or other type of similar fabric;
• boards.

The type of roses plays an important role when choosing winter shelter.

Dependence of the insulation method on the type of flowers

• Park rose. It tolerates frost well, and therefore there is no need for shelter. However, it is better to insulate seedlings or young bushes.
• Ground cover rose. This type does not require special care.
• Floribunda. The bushes are cut in half, leaving a maximum height of 40 cm, and the leaves are removed. Then they hill up and cover with available materials.
• miniature rose. The small ones are hilled up, covered with dry leaves and insulation, and a frame is installed on top of them. On top of metal arches or wooden boxes stretch the film, strengthen the ends.
• climbing rose. The stems are twisted into bundles, thick shoots are carefully pinned with wire so that they do not touch the ground, and laid on dry leaves or pine needles, sprinkled with the same layer of insulation on top and covered with polyethylene or synthetic fiber.
• Shrub rose. Shrub rose you need to shorten it and sprinkle it with a 30 cm layer of prepared soil. In this case, the entire gap must be filled.

  The vaccine must be hidden under a seven-centimeter layer.

• Hybrid tea rose. The optimal method of protection would be an air-dry shelter.
• Standard rose. An air-dry shelter is used.

Types of plant protection from cold

Air dry method

Suitable for floribunda and hybrid tea varieties and is one of the most reliable.

This protection allows you to keep a permanent temperature down to minus four degrees, provides excellent ventilation, and ensures healthy breathing of the plant.

Sequence of frame construction:

1. The frame is made of wire or metal rods about 60 cm high.
2. The bush is surrounded by a cone-shaped fence.
3. Insulation is stretched over the frame. It can be glassine, lutrasil, cardboard. The material is fixed to the support using twine.
4. The resulting “house” is covered with polyethylene, which will prevent moisture from reaching the plant.
5. The lower part of the film is covered with soil.

Shield method

Suitable for climbing roses. With the advent of the first cold weather, it is necessary to get rid of the cover of leaves along with the petioles.

Sequence of work:

1. Tie the prepared bush with a bunch, bend it in the direction where the branches are directed.
2. Spread spruce branches on the surface of the soil to protect against rodents, and lay the bush on top of the litter.
3. The roses are attached to the ground using twisted metal rods in several places.
4. Place a couple nearby wooden shields, the length of which should be equal to the length of the bush, the width - about a meter.
5. Place the shields like a house, as an addition, strengthening them with pegs fixed in the ground.

Shields are usually used as a measure of protection for rose bushes growing in a row. A central bush surrounded by other perennials is an unusual situation. In that case massive construction may harm them.

We invite you to watch a video on how to cover roses using the shield method:

Jute bags

The shelter is suitable for standard roses.

Work order:

1. A bottomless bag is placed on the crown of the bush, which is tied with twine at the beginning of crown growth.
2. Place spruce branches or dry leaves inside the shelter.
3. Secure the bag at the top, cover the trunk with a rough, durable cloth.

Hilling

Hilling is very simple, less energy-consuming and at the same time effective way wintering roses

Hilling should only be done with a dry mixture. For example, sand alone or soil mixed with sand or compost.

Hilling procedure:

1. Use two buckets of dry mixture per bush.
2. Cover with dry leaves or grass on top.
3. The tops of the bushes are wrapped in several layers of lutrasil.

We invite you to watch a video on how to hill roses:

Photo

Consequences of wrong actions

Gardeners quite often encounter blackened ends of shoots with the onset of spring. Blackened tips of the shoots mean that the edges of the stems are frozen due to improper covering of the bushes for the winter.

In this case, it is necessary to get rid of the damaged black edges, cutting them off to living tissue. When performing circumcision, you need to take the simplest precautions. Another mistake when protecting in winter, which causes blackening of the shoots, is the use of unsuitable materials for shelter.

• Sand or sandy soil. This will lead to rapid heating and cooling. Changes create extreme conditions and prevent a favorable winter under cover.
• High peat. This type of fertilizer decomposes, releasing carbon dioxide, which has negative impact on the life of the plant.
• Large sawdust , since they do not provide the necessary heating during frosts.

Lowland peat, finely ground sawdust (thyrsu), and loamy base are much more suitable for hilling. Incorrect covering of rose bushes leads to their death.

What happens if you don't protect the bushes?

Lack of shelter in many cases leads to the death of plants. Despite the certainty that this type roses are frost-resistant, it is advisable to use one of the methods to protect flowers from the winter cold.

Preparing roses in the fall for winter shelter and caring for them during this period is a very responsible and important process that requires considerable effort. It is the gardener's duty to protect rose bushes from the harsh winter conditions. in central Russia. Magnificent rose bushes will be a delight to look at if they remain healthy.

Country cheat sheet No. 8: “When to cover roses for the winter in the fall?”

The October issues of magazines for gardeners and gardeners are literally full of notes on the topic preparing plants for winter : pruning flowers and raspberries, harvesting perennials for storage, whitewashing trees, winter crops… in autumn A summer resident has no less worries than in the summer. And if they grow on the site roses- it's time to think about shelter for the winter for them. All the important information about When is the best time to cover roses for the winter? , we have combined in one article. The result is a very informative country cheat sheet, which we hope will be useful to both us and you 😉

1. Preparing roses for winter.
2. It's time to cover the roses! Dates for the Middle Zone (including the Moscow region), the Urals and Siberia.
3. Favorable dates according to Lunar calendar for October and November 2018.
4. Fatal mistakes in covering roses.
5. Features of covering standard roses.
6. How to cover roses if only stumps were left when pruning.

Preparing roses for winter

Top dressing

From mid-August, it is necessary to finish feeding roses with nitrogen fertilizers, reduce or completely stop watering (depending on the weather). Starting from August, only phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are used in the rose garden. In autumn, on the eve of wintering, roses need potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. They help control growth, promote wood ripening (woodiness of shoots) and increase cold resistance. Fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus can be applied from the end of August. Superphosphate, potassium sulfate, ash, as well as special complex “autumn” fertilizers are suitable. If the autumn turned out to be long and warm, it is not too late to do the final fertilizing in the 2nd ten days of October (if you didn’t have time in September). In addition, in the second mid-September it is necessary to stop digging and loosening the soil between the bushes, their formation, so as not to cause the development of shoots from buds that are at rest

Scheme for strengthening feeding of roses in preparation for winter:

1. The first fertilizing is applied in mid-August. Dissolve in 10 liters of water: 25 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium sulfate, 2.5 g boric acid. The solution is applied at the root at the rate of 2 liters per 1 square meter.
2. The second feeding is done in September. Dissolve in 10 liters of water: 15 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate. Or you can use complex “Autumn” mineral fertilizer.

*For foliar feeding, the dosage is reduced by 3 times.

Pruning shoots

More recently, flower growers were of the opinion that in the fall rose bushes should definitely be pruned, leaving stumps of about 30 cm, with 5-7 buds on the shoot. Now another technique is widespread: in the fall, the branches are bent to the ground, securely fixing them, and then covered for the winter. Pruning is carried out in a gentle manner, as necessary: ​​dry, diseased and very old, inflexible branches that prevent covering, as well as immature wen shoots, are cut out. It is believed that autumn pruning takes away the plant's strength, requires huge costs for their restoration. Bushes that are not pruned in the fall survive the winter better, and in the spring they begin to grow faster and bloom earlier.

In the fall, it is advisable to trim branches if they interfere with the shelter and may break when trying to bend them down. Pruning is done only to the height of the shelter, adjusted for the variety (there is a difference in pruning climbing, hybrid tea roses, etc.).

It is better to prune roses in the middle - end of October., until the frosts have set in, but the main heat is already behind us. There is no need to rush into pruning, otherwise the buds will wake up and the shoots will begin to grow again. It is useful to treat sections on thick branches with garden varnish, and thin ones with brilliant green.

The main pruning is carried out in the spring, based on the results of wintering, after removing the covers,

Leaf trimming

Up to late autumn When it’s time to prepare shelters, some varieties of roses are green and even bloom. If you leave everything as is, during wintering, they will most likely rot (and this will adversely affect the health of the entire plant).

Late October - early November(after the first frost) the leaves must be removed without leaving petioles. At the same time, the remaining flowers, ovaries and immature shoots are cut off. It is convenient to trim with a small pruner or scissors. You should start from the bottom of the branches, gradually moving to the tops.

If there is a lot of foliage and its removal becomes too labor-intensive, you can get by with a little:

• Before covering, treat the bushes with any copper-containing fungicide, following the recommendations on the package.
• Remove at least the base of the branches from the leaves so that the bush is well ventilated, and then spray with any antifungal drug (containing copper) or a 3% solution of iron sulfate.

Treatment before shelter

After gentle pruning and removal of leaves, the bushes are usually treated with fungicide solutions to prevent the spread of rot. In addition to the above-mentioned remedies (copper-containing preparations, iron sulfate), it is recommended to use a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Should I hill up roses for the winter?

The question is again controversial, here rose growers have two opinions:

• Hilling up rose bushes will protect them in frosty, snowless winters. IN in this case the spud will be beneficial.
• The base of the hilled bushes is dampened, so the hilling will only do harm.

Conclusion: everyone chooses for themselves whether to hill up or not.

It is definitely worth refusing to hill up if the area itself is damp or the autumn was rainy and the soil was oversaturated with moisture. In this case, hilling even previously prepared dry soil mixture will be redundant. It is advisable to carry out hilling if the autumn turned out to be dry and slightly frosty. Suitable option mixtures for hilling roses for the winter: dry and loose mature compost with sand and peat. You should not use pure peat and sand - they absorb moisture, and sawdust rots.

Important! Standard roses absolutely require hilling (more on the features of their shelter below).

Sheltering roses for the winter: Optimal timing

After preliminary preparation, with the onset of favorable weather, the roses are ready to cover for the winter! Question: when does this readiness occur? So, the sources we analyzed say:

— Cover the roses you can start in the first ten days of October (newspaper "AiF. At the dacha" ). While the weather is still warm enough, the shoots remain flexible and bend more easily (on frosty days the shoots become brittle and brittle). The branches are bent and fixed in a horizontal position using metal pegs. Thick branches can be bent gradually, in several steps. At the same time, the shelter frames are installed. The roses are finally covered in late October - early November, after the onset of persistent cold weather (and even light frosts), but before snowfall. At the final stage installed frames covered with spunbond. Important! You cannot lay roses directly on the ground: there should be a gap between the soil surface and the shoots for ventilation, and one and a half liter plastic bottles or thick foam plastic should be placed as a “gasket”.

— Don’t rush to take cover ( magazine "Flower"). Roses should be thoroughly insulated on frozen ground., and it’s better to prepare for this in advance - start bend branches before frost (from mid-September). Roses are quite cold-resistant and easily tolerate light autumn frosts without shelter. Let the rains pass and sub-zero temperatures begin to set in - then you can finally cover the roses with non-woven materials.

— Warming shelters for roses it is necessary to install after the autumn frosts grab the ground or shortly before this moment - no earlier than November ("Homestead newspaper" ). Hasty sheltering (at temperatures from zero and above) risks the plants starting to damp out and the humidity to rise, which creates favorable conditions for the development of fungal infections.

These terms can be applied both for the Middle Zone (including the Moscow region), and for the Urals and Siberia, since it is more important to rely on weather conditions, weather forecasts, and temperature indicators.

Favorable days according to the Lunar calendar 2018

In October In 2018, astrologers recommend pruning and covering roses:

• 14th, 19th, 22nd, 27th, 28th and 31st.

According to the calendar from the magazine “Homestead Farming”.

Unfavorable days for pruning in October:

• October 9, 17, 18, 19, 24 (days of the New Moon, Full Moon, Moon in the sign of Aquarius).

In November 2018 favorable days for covering roses for the winter:

• November 1, 3, 17, 18, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30.

Unfavorable days for pruning in November:

• November 7, 14, 15, 23 (days of the New Moon, Full Moon, Moon in the sign of Aquarius).

According to the calendar from the magazine “My Favorite Dacha”.

7 mistakes in preparing roses for winter

1. Early cover. If you thoroughly cover roses at temperatures above zero, there is a great danger that the bushes will dry out and become easy prey for fungal infections. At the beginning of autumn - from mid-September - until the branches are caught by frost and bend well, you can begin to bend them to the ground. And it is better to start insulation on frozen soil, no earlier than the end of October.

2. Bending branches in frosty weather can be dangerous. Frosts make the shoots brittle and brittle. The bark may crack, resulting in the formation of wounds that will become a gateway to various types of infections. It is recommended to start bending the branches in mid-September, and it is better to do this gradually, fixing the horizontal tilt with metal pegs. It’s convenient to use kebab skewers for this - they go into the ground “like clockwork,” and it’s easy to tie twine to the tip.

3. Early pruning of immature shoots, while it is still warm, stimulates the active formation of new ones. It turns out to be monkey work. It is recommended to trim immature shoots (as well as leaves and remaining ovaries) only after the first frost (usually in the 3rd decade of October). In general, flower growers today agree that it is not necessary to carry out fork pruning in the fall; it is enough to remove old and diseased branches, as well as selectively shorten them if they are difficult to cover.

4. Gartering roses with ropes made of natural materials is dangerous because during wintering it accumulates moisture and rots. Polypropylene twine is more suitable for this.

5. When sending roses under cover, you cannot leave leaves on them. They will rot, the bushes will not be ventilated - all this opens the way for infections. In the second half of October, the leaves are cut with pruning shears or, carefully running your hands in gardening gloves along the trunk, shake off the foliage. Attention! Rose leaves cannot be used for shelter; they should certainly be removed from under the bush.

6. You should not lower rose branches onto bare ground or film. It is advisable that it be dry under the branches. By bending the shoots in front of the shelter, you can build a “platform” under them from plastic bottles or polystyrene foam.

7. Ruberoid or plastic film are not very good as a covering material. It is also better not to use metal tanks and buckets. It is best to cover roses for the winter with thick lutrasil or spunbond, throwing them over a frame made of metal rods or chain-link mesh. It turns out to be a cozy mini-greenhouse.

How to cover roses if you had to cut them short in the fall

If you had to do short pruning in the fall (the old fashioned way), leaving stumps 30-40 cm high, it is recommended to do this:

1. After pruning (usually after the first frost, in the first ten days of October), treat the bushes with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture.
2. Hill up the plantings with dry soil mixture to a height of 20-25 cm, covering the horse's neck.
3. Leave the roses to harden until early November.
4. In the first ten days of November, in dry weather, you can begin insulation. There is no need to bend anything because the roses are cut short.

Ways to cover trimmed roses:

— The easiest way to cover roses pruned in autumn is with a layer of spruce branches of at least 10-15 cm.

— The air-dry method of covering is most often used (it is the most reliable): Build a frame over the bushes and cover it with hydro-thermal insulating material.

— Individual bushes can be insulated in this way: tie the branches of the bush together, surround them with a chain-link mesh in the form of a fence (diameter 30-50 cm). Fill the space between the bush and the mesh with soil mixture. Wrap the structure on top with spunbond in 2 layers. Straw, manure, hay and moss are not suitable as insulation materials, since they absorb moisture and can cause rotting.

Features of sheltering a standard rose

The main difficulty is to correctly determine the side of the slope, because the trunk at the grafting site is easy to break. An interesting comparison is given in an article on covering standard roses in the Dacha newspaper:

• You need to imagine that the fingers in a clenched fist are the bump at the grafting site, and the shaft is the thumb. The trunk, like the thumb of a hand, should fit easily onto the pine cone. The diagram clearly conveys this essence:

Procedure

1. A small hole is dug around the trunk, very carefully so as not to touch the root system.
2. The trunk is bent gradually, allowing it to get used to the new position. They bent it - waited a couple of days, and so on, until the plant took a horizontal position.
3. The hole is buried, the base is covered with dry soil mixture.
4. It is useful to place something hard (a log or a plastic bottle) under the trunk to support the trunk so that it does not break under the weight of snow.
5. The horizontal position is fixed with polypropylene twine, tying it to a metal peg.
6. Under the crown of a standard rose and on it you can put spruce branches or dry oak leaves.
7. It would be a good idea to spray the plants with a solution of iron sulfate and put poison inside the shelter for mice, which like to visit pink shelters in winter and feast on the plantings.
8. Finally, they arrange an air-dry shelter for the entire plant as a whole, insulating the stem as well. Thick lutrasil or spunbond is placed on top. It is better to refuse covering with film or roofing felt.
9. If there is little snow in winter, it needs to be covered additionally. The main insulation for roses is snow.

We hope that we really managed to collect as much information as possible on the topic in this summer cottage cheat sheet, and that it turned out to be useful for you. Write reviews, share your experience in the comments, we will be glad! 😉

A rose garden in a dacha can be landscape, romantic, or ceremonial. Whatever option you choose for yourself, it will definitely decorate summer cottage plot, will give it individuality. But it is not enough to plant luxurious varieties of roses; you must take care of them, only then the appearance of your flower garden will look like a picture in a magazine. Modern varieties require watering, fertilizing, pruning, loosening, shelter for the winter - none of these activities should be skipped.

The need for shelter depends on what climatic zone Roses are grown depending on their type. In the southern regions, the crop can be slightly cultivated and that’s all. The winter hardiness of roses depends on their variety. The following can overwinter without shelter:

• wild roses and species roses;
• specially bred winter-hardy varieties;
• some hybrids of alba, rugosa and others roses;
• park roses.

All other representatives of the species need shelter. Before purchasing, it is recommended to choose a zoned variety and inquire about its winter hardiness. In regions with a mild, humid climate, plants also need to be covered. In winter, the cause of death of a rose bush can be not only frost, but also dampness.

Some varieties, such as Canadian roses, winter successfully under snow. They are characterized by the ability to recover with the arrival of warmth, even if individual branches froze in winter. But ground cover, hybrid tea, standard, climbing roses and the floribunda definitely needs to be covered.

When to cover, at what temperature

Roses should be covered after sub-zero temperatures and soil freezing. If you do this too early, the bushes will be susceptible to damping off; if you delay with shelter, you expose the plant to the risk of freezing.

As soon as the temperature reaches -5-7 degrees, it’s time to insulate the roses for the winter. Due to different weather conditions, sheltering times will be different for each region. Possible climate anomalies must also be taken into account.

In the Moscow region, Central zone

In the middle zone, roses are covered at the end of October or the first half of November. The bushes easily withstand light frost for a short time. This even benefits them; a kind of hardening of the plants occurs.

While the nights are setting minus temperature, and during the day it is still warm and the sun is shining, you need to wait a little longer. If it rains outside, cover the top of the rose garden with film, and make small grooves around the bushes to drain water. Excess moisture will not benefit roses.

In the Urals the weather can be unpredictable. The first frosts here often occur in early October, but sometimes this moment comes earlier and snow falls already in September. Gardeners here cover roses every year in different times. In general, you should be prepared for the fact that in the first week of October you will need to insulate your pets.

Given the harsh climate, you will need to stock up on covering material, spruce branches, metal arches or mesh to build the frame. An additional air layer inside the frame shelters will prevent the shoots from freezing and rotting in case of high humidity.

Summer in Siberia is very short, but winter is different severe frosts. It is impossible to imagine growing roses without shelter in such conditions. Sometimes roses have to be insulated already at the end of September. More often, gardeners here complain about damping off rather than freezing of the bushes, so using organic matter as a shelter is not recommended. It is better to hill up the bushes higher, and after snow falls, throw them with a thin mass.

Note! Snow is an excellent insulator. At an air temperature of -20 degrees, there will be only -2-3 degrees under the snow mass. In such conditions, roses will survive the winter well.

Shelter of roses in the Urals and Siberia: video

The Leningrad region is considered a zone risky farming and is partly equivalent to Siberia and the Urals. The climate here is treacherous due to the constant influence of sea air masses. The region often experiences cyclones with cloudy, humid weather and temperature fluctuations. It is not uncommon for thaws to occur in winter followed by severe frosts.

This weather is very unfavorable for plants. Moisture enters the wood tissue, and then when it freezes, it expands and breaks the wood fibers. The resulting wounds and cracks on the stems of roses can become entry points for various infections. It is recommended to cover plants here in the last days of November, choosing a dry day for this. The rose must first be covered with dry sand.

Preparing for shelter

Roses should go into winter strong and strong; this can be achieved with proper preparation. The preparatory period stretches from summer until the coldest weather. Heavy pruning summer time They do not do this so as not to cause the growth of young shoots, but only cut off the faded buds, not allowing seeds to set.

The basic rule for pruning is not to touch roses from the beginning of August until frost arrives. At this time, you can only pinch the tops of the shoots, preventing them from continuing to grow and taking away the strength of the bush. Young shoots will still not have time to ripen before winter and will suffer from frost. The pruning method depends on the type of crop.

For example, park roses, which are frost-resistant, are not pruned, but only sanitary cleaning of the bush is done, removing diseased and weak shoots. Climbing roses are also pruned. Floribunda and hybrid tea roses are shortened significantly, leaving no more than 5 buds on the shoots.

Important! It is advisable to remove all foliage from the bush - this will reduce the risk of disease. If there are a lot of roses on the site, then completely depriving them of foliage will be too labor-intensive and difficult. In this case, remove at least the diseased leaves.

The cut should only be made sharp knife or pruning shears so that the wood fibers do not wrinkle. It is made at an angle of 45 degrees above the bud directed outward, departing about 1 cm from it. After pruning, the remaining branches are raked and removed. Healthy parts of plants can be used for compost; diseased parts are recommended to be burned.

You can use root and foliar fertilizers at the same time or alternate them with each other. The predominant elements at this time of year should be potassium and phosphorus. The addition of potassium increases disease resistance, guarantees resistance to weather vagaries and promotes the formation of flower buds. Phosphorus accelerates the ripening of shoots and helps root growth.

Phosphorus-potassium fertilizer can be liquid or in granules. The solution is used in dry weather, the granules are scattered under the bushes if it rains every day. The finished fertilizer must have a special marking - “autumn”. If for some reason you were unable to purchase it, you can use potassium monophosphate, which will also be cheaper.

The last fertilizing can be done just before frost; the nutrients will be useful to roses in the spring. To do this, granules containing phosphorus and wood ash. You can put rotted manure closer to the roots, which will be dissolved in the spring by melt water, and stimulate active growth new shoots.

In the southern regions, the second feeding can be replaced with a cover in the form of compost. The fertilizer will simultaneously warm the roots and provide them nutrients, formed during the decomposition process.

Even if your roses have not been sick with anything this season, they need preventative treatment before wintering. Microorganisms, causing disease, are able to successfully overwinter in the soil and infect young shoots in the spring, so you need to spray not only the bush, but also the ground underneath it.

Immediately after this, the plant is hilled and covered. Before processing the rose, you need to trim it and remove its leaves. Verified and effective drugs for the prevention of many diseases are Bordeaux mixture and 3% solution of iron sulfate. In addition, industrial preparations are used for the same purpose, such as:

• Ridomil Gold;
• Abiga Peak;
• Fundazol;
• Topaz;
• Speed

Fungicides are dissolved in water according to the instructions and applied by spraying. If you used any of the drugs during spring treatment, replace it with another, then the effect will be more effective.

Note! Do not use biofugicides for autumn prevention; they can only act actively at above-zero temperatures. On the eve of frost, these remedies will be ineffective.

How to properly cover roses step by step

Each variety of rose requires its own method of covering. Wintering will go well if you take into account climatic conditions, frost resistance of the variety, age of the bush and its condition, features life cycle plants.

For climbing varieties, the wintering rules will be as follows.

1. A very large and old bush of climbing roses will be difficult to lay on the ground for wintering. To insulate it, several layers of non-woven material or burlap are used, which are completely wrapped around the plant directly on the support.
2. In younger specimens, the lashes are removed from the supports one by one and trimmed properly.
3. Insulation begins by hilling the root collar with dry soil to a height of 20-30 cm.
4. Then the lashes, removed from the supports, are tied and placed on a pillow of spruce branches.
5. A frame of metal arcs or wooden slats, which is covered with non-woven material or fiberglass.
6. The upper plane is additionally protected with plastic film from moisture penetration.
7. For small bushes, wooden boxes can be used as shelter.

Note! In the spring, the covering material is removed gradually, at first only opening it slightly, otherwise the roses will get sunburn.

Winter shelter for climbing roses: video

In warm areas, park roses can winter without shelter, but in the middle zone and northern regions they need to be protected.

1. Even before the onset of frost, it is recommended to hill up park roses to a small height with peat or dry soil.
2. As soon as the temperature drops to -7 degrees, the rose garden is covered with spruce branches on top, over which a film is thrown.
3. If the winter turns out to be little snow, the film can also be covered with peat on top.
4. The dry method of shelter has proven to work well, in which they build around the bushes wooden frame, on which roofing felt is thrown on top to prevent water from entering the shelter. During such wintering, the roots of the plants will be protected from excess moisture.

Note! To tough stems park roses laid on the ground to build a shelter, they are taught to take a bent position in advance, from August hanging weights on the ends of the shoots.

Groundcover roses have long, twisting stems that grow up to 2 meters, allowing them to cover the ground like a carpet. In the fall, they only need sanitary pruning and removal of dried flowers. Otherwise, care is the same as for other representatives of the culture. This variety is considered quite frost-resistant and winters well under a layer of snow. But you can never predict in advance what winter will be like.

1. To ensure the protection of the shoots of ground cover roses, it is recommended to cover them with pine or spruce branches. Additionally, such a shelter will protect the plant from rodents.
2. Drooping shoots high grades will need to be bent to the ground and secured with pins.
3. Ground cover roses are vulnerable to fungal diseases, so you should avoid covering the bush with dense materials, especially film.

It is also important to remove the insulation in a timely manner. early spring, otherwise the shoots can easily disappear and the bush will die.

Floribunda roses grow as a compact bushy bush that can be different heights. They are considered easy to care for and more durable than hybrid tea varieties. Even if frost damages the shoots, floribunda quickly recovers in the spring. But still, it is recommended to cover these roses even in the middle zone.

1. On initial stage The bush needs to be covered with loose soil to a height of 20-30 cm
2. Then spruce branches, oak leaves or non-woven material are used.
3. The final shelter for floribunda will be snow cover.

Note! In areas where winters are wet and warm, roses overwinter better without shelter. If a temperature difference constantly occurs under a layer of insulation and moisture accumulates, the bush may suffer more severely than from frost. Incorrect wintering is especially harmful for young seedlings.

Tea roses are especially delicate creatures. But still, varieties for open ground able to tolerate light frosts. It is after the arrival of sub-zero temperatures that roses should be covered. You should not wait for serious frosts; firstly, the shoots may be damaged, and secondly, they become stiff and it will be difficult to bend them to the ground.

1. Before sheltering, the bush is hilled to a height of 20 cm.
2. After this, the stems of the roses are bent to the ground and secured with metal hooks or wooden pegs.
3. Peat, sawdust or pine needles can be used as covering material. They are simply poured on top of the bush.
4. In cold areas, you can additionally throw insulating material on top, for example, lutrasil.
5. Small bushes are covered with wooden boxes, which are covered with roofing felt on top.

Note! If the rose garden consists of several bushes, a common shelter is built for them - this method protects the plants more reliably in winter than separately insulating each bush.

How to properly cover roses for the winter: video

When preparing roses for winter, novice gardeners often make typical mistakes, which can lead to the death of the bush or significantly weaken it:

• Trimming too short before covering. This method is suitable only for floribunda and hybrid tea varieties. Severe shortening of shoots will harm scrub, climbing and ground cover roses. They will grow worse next season and may not even bloom.
• Excessive cover. Practice shows that roses best tolerate wintering under a frame shelter with air gap and one layer of non-woven material. When such a structure is covered with snow, the plants will be quite comfortable under it throughout the winter. But under a multi-layer shelter, the shoots can easily dry out.
• Bending the bush at low temperatures. In frost, the branches of the plant become woody and brittle. If you try to bend the bush, the shoots can easily be broken. Start doing this ahead of time, bending the branches lower and lower and securing them near the ground.
• Hilling up all the roses. This procedure is especially necessary own root varieties, which are less adapted to wintering. For roses grafted onto rose hips, hilling can be more harmful, since when a thaw occurs, the bush under a layer of soil will damp out. Especially if organic matter is used as mulch.
• Using film as cover. The covering material must be breathable. The film will create under cover greenhouse effect, as a result of which the shoots will suffer from excess moisture.

Providing for your roses proper wintering, you will keep them healthy and strong for future flowering. Only care throughout the season will help maintain the rose garden in excellent condition and provide the opportunity to enjoy the aroma and beauty of elegant flowers.

In regions with cool climates, organizing the wintering of roses is very important, since otherwise they may die: modern varieties and hybrids of garden roses have lost the ability to go into a dormant state on their own - they meet winter with buds, flowers and leafy shoots. The first frosts introduce roses into a dormant period, but following the cold, an increase in temperature to 0 ºC and above again awakens the plants, and sap flow resumes in them. When the temperature drops again to -3 ºC, the juices in the roses freeze, causing their tissues to tear, and frost holes form on the shoots - long cracks filled with ice. In these places, the damaged epidermis no longer protects the internal tissues of plants from pathogens that begin to develop as soon as the air temperature rises again to 0 ºC.

Save the damaged low temperatures Roses in the fall and winter can only be protected from disease infection by dry shelter, in which the juice flowing from the wounds will quickly dry out, which will allow the wounds to scar. We will tell you how to prepare roses for winter, whether you need to prune roses in the fall, and if this is necessary, then how to properly prune roses for the winter, and also answer questions about whether to cover roses for the winter and how exactly this should be done.

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Preparing roses for winter

From the beginning of August, application to the soil nitrogen fertilizers stop, but just at During this period, it is necessary to carry out the first strengthening winter root feeding of roses, which consists of 25 g of superphosphate, 2.5 g of boric acid (or 3.5 g of borax) and 10 g of potassium sulfate dissolved in 10 liters of water. This amount of solution should be enough for 4 m² of area. The second strengthening fertilizer is applied to the soil a month later - at the beginning of September: 16 g of potassium sulfate, or potassium monophosphate, and 15 g of superphosphate are dissolved in 10 liters of water.

But it is better to carry out foliar treatments of roses instead of root treatments - spray the bushes on the leaves with the same solutions, but in a concentration three times less than with root feeding.

From the beginning of autumn they also stop loosening the soil under the bushes, so as not to provoke the growth of shoots from dormant buds, and from mid-September, all the buds that are smaller than a pea are plucked out, and those larger in size are allowed to ripen and form fruits.

In the photo: Trimmed rose bushes before wintering

Pruning roses in autumn (for winter)

When to prune roses in the fall

Our website has already posted an article that describes in detail pruning roses in the fall for beginner gardeners, but we will briefly remind you of its contents. Should roses be pruned for winter? Certainly. Only park and groundcover species do not require pruning, and climbing roses are pruned only lightly. The pruning procedure strengthens the plants, increases their frost resistance, and improves air exchange in the crown.

Pruning is carried out just before the plants are covered for the winter, in the second half of October or early November. Prepare your tools in advance – they must be well sharpened and sterile.

How to prune roses for the winter

Both mature and newly planted bushes are pruned: you need to remove all dry, diseased, old and weak stems, cut off flowers and buds, and completely remove foliage from the branches. Leave 3-5 of the most developed shoots on the bush, equidistant from each other if possible, and cut out all the rest. All shoots that have not had time to ripen are also subject to mandatory removal, since in winter they will begin to rot under cover and can destroy the entire bush.

When pruning, follow these rules:

• choose a sunny, windless day for the procedure;
• thick stems older than three years with dried bark are best cut out with a hacksaw;
• cuts and cuts must be oblique so that water drains from them without stagnating;
• the cut should pass over the swollen, but not sprouted bud at a distance of half a centimeter from it;
• pruning is done on the outer bud, then the growing shoots will not intersect, and light and air will penetrate into the middle of the bush;
• shorten the stems to the white core.

In the photo: Shelter of a large area with roses

It is also important to know how long to cut rose shoots, taking into account the specifics of the species. There are three types of shoot pruning:

• long pruning - the shoot is shortened slightly, leaving at least 9-10 buds on it;
• medium pruning, in which the shoot is cut at a height of 35 cm from the surface of the site, leaving 5 buds on it;
• short pruning, which is needed only in extreme cases, since the shoots are removed almost to the base, leaving no more than two buds on them.

Polyanthus, hybrid tea roses and floribunda are pruned to four or five lower developed buds. Cascading standard roses are pruned short only in the first year, leaving shoots 15 cm long, and in subsequent years only faded shoots are pruned, and young ones are slightly shortened. Grandiflora roses, like remontant varieties, cut off, leaving 5 buds on the shoots. Shoots of Old English and shrub varieties of roses are shortened by three quarters or two thirds.

Park roses, the most winter-hardy of all species, They are subjected only to sanitary pruning, removing old, damaged and weak branches, and young strong shoots are only slightly shortened.

After pruning, remove all leaves from the shoots by wearing a glove and running your hand along the shoots from bottom to top to avoid damaging the buds.

Pruning climbing roses for the winter

For climbing roses, damaged, dry and weak shoots, flowers and buds are removed for the winter, developed strong shoots are only slightly shortened, but one or two old shoots are cut to 35-40 cm - to stimulate the growth of basal replacement shoots.

If you carry out full pruning, you can provoke the appearance of a large number of non-flowering vegetative shoots next season.

Climbing roses are pruned in late September or early October. After the procedure, do not forget to remove the leaves from the branches, and then remove all plant debris from under the bush.

In the photo: Covering roses for the winter with covering material

Sheltering roses for the winter

When to cover roses for the winter

By freeing the roses from their leaves, you will give them a signal that it is time to rest. Allow the cuts and cuts to dry thoroughly and begin covering the bushes for the winter. However, you should not rush too much, since in the warm, lingering autumn, roses will continue to grow without leaves, and if they are covered at this time, the plant buds may dry out and die.

At what temperature should roses be covered for the winter? It is necessary to keep the roses for two weeks at a temperature of -2 to -5 ºC so that their vital activity is completely extinguished, and only after that build a shelter. Please note that roses grafted onto rose hips can withstand temperatures of -10-12 ºC, while self-rooted ones die at -3 ºC.

When and how to cover roses in the middle zone and in the Moscow region

The optimal time for constructing a shelter in the central regions of Russia is the first or second ten days of November. Choose a dry, clear day for this, when the temperature is between -5-7 ºC.

How to cover roses for the winter in the Moscow region? Hybrid tea, polyanthus roses and floribunda are bent to the ground, having previously laid spruce branches under them, and secured with wooden or metal pins. The base of the bush is covered with dry soil, peat, compost or humus to a height of 35-40 cm, and then the lying roses are covered with dry foliage or spruce branches. You can install metal arcs over a lying bush and stretch covering material over them.

In the photo: Insulating the base of rose bushes

The shoots of hybrid tea, standard and floribunda roses are more fragile and less flexible than the stems of climbing roses, so it is difficult to bend them to the ground. Keep these roses upright by building arched metal supports above them. required height, on which you can stretch the film, but before covering, do not forget to hill the base of the bush high.

Not all roses need shelter. Most of the park varieties and hybrids are characterized by such high winter hardiness that they do not require protection from the cold at all, and the bushes of those park varieties that are worth worrying about should be hilled up high enough and wrapped in paper for the winter.

Sheltering roses for the winter in the Urals

Covering roses in autumn in the Urals can be done at the end of October, when the air temperature reaches -5 ºC. It is good if dry snow falls by this time - its natural protection slows down the cooling of the soil. But you can’t rely on nature, so it’s better to cover the roses. In mid-October, trim the bushes to the height of the shelter, remove immature shoots and leaves from them, and remove debris and plant debris from the tree trunk circle.

Sometimes rodents settle under the shelter, damaging the bark at the bottom of the shoots, so it is advisable to place poisoned baits under the bushes: sawdust is soaked in a creolin solution at the rate of 1 tablespoon of the drug per bucket of water and laid out under the bushes. The bush is covered with peat or dry soil to a third of its height, and top part tied with spruce branches.

In the photo: Sheltering roses for the winter

For single short-pruned bushes, wooden boxes are used as shelter, which are covered with film on top, pressing its edges with boards, bricks or sprinkled with earth so that a gust of wind does not tear off the polyethylene. However, do not press the film completely, leave small vents in several places for air exchange.

If a harsh winter is expected, make a hut over the bush from boards or sheets of plywood, and cover it with film on top. The height of the air-dry shelter should be such that its “ceiling” is 10 cm above the bush. In such a house, roses do not freeze or rot.

If you grow a lot of roses in your area, make a board frame over the bushes the width of the flowerbed and stretch the film over it, also pressing it along the edges to the ground.

How to cover roses for the winter in Siberia

Roses covered for the winter will not die from frost, but they may dry out. To prevent this from happening, you should not cover roses too early, but in order to determine required deadlines, you have to carefully monitor the weather forecast - after all, sometimes even the beginning of November can be warm in Siberia.

Young, recently planted roses can be covered with five-liter plastic bottles with a cut out bottom and covered with dry leaves on top. In order to avoid damping off the rose, you need to remove the cap from the bottle.

Adult, short-pruned bushes should be buried high in soil and also covered with dry leaves.

In the photo: Covering roses with spruce branches for safe wintering

The fact is that in Siberia the winters are snowy, so roses need to be kept from freezing only until the snow falls, and then they will safely overwinter under it.

Sheltering climbing roses for the winter

The difficulty of covering climbing roses is that they cannot be pruned too much, otherwise they will not bloom next year - after all, plants of this species bloom on last year’s shoots. Therefore, the climbing bush needs to be bent to the ground in several steps, like raspberries, and place them on a bed of spruce branches. Cover roses when persistent sub-zero temperatures set in. Roses laid on a bed of spruce branches are covered on top with the same spruce branches or dry leaves, and then with film or covering material.

Covering material for roses for the winter

To cover roses for the winter, use the following material:

• plastic film;
• lutrasil;
• spunbond;
• geotextiles;
• dry leaves;
• spruce branches;
• burlap and rags;
• old blankets and coats;
• boards and plywood.

Which material is best to choose depends on the type of rose and the method of covering. Large plants with good immunity will only need to be covered with leaves or spruce branches, but for sensitive species it is necessary to build “houses” from boards and plywood, wrapping them additionally in bags and rags.

To cover large areas, you can use polyethylene film, but geotextiles, lutrasil or spunbond, which are stretched over a metal or wooden frame, are better. These materials not only protect roses from the cold, but also remove fumes which cause damping off of plants.

In the photo: How to cover roses for the winter with spruce branches

The density of the material must be at least 200 g/m², and the material must be folded several times. The non-woven shelter stretched over the frame must be covered at the bottom with long boards and pressed down with bricks. If, when covering plants with film, it is necessary to leave air vents, then spunbond, lutrasil and geotextiles must be securely fastened around the entire perimeter so that there are no holes left anywhere through which cold winter air will penetrate.

Using for shelter nonwovens, you don’t have to remove climbing roses from their support for the winter: their base is hilled to a height of 30 cm, and then the bush is securely wrapped in several layers of material, securing the structure with staples and a stapler or clothespins.

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