The main purpose of summer pruning is the timely removal of wilted flowers that are pulling from the plant. You should not leave inflorescences on the bush whose petals have already begun to fall, otherwise you may destroy the roses. With proper pruning for the next season you can get maximum quantity beautiful large buds.
Basic rules for pruning roses
For work, take pruning shears and high gloves to protect your hands from scratches. The tool must be sharp and clean to avoid the plant becoming infected. Proper pruning of roses involves removing all diseased, dead, weakened shoots. They are cut down to ground level.
Branches growing inside the bush must be thinned. Roses should be pruned in such a way as to prevent thickening and provide free air circulation to the crop. Such conditions prevent development on the bush powdery mildew, black spot and rust. It is considered correct to trim branches that are too thin so that the plant does not waste its energy on them. Before winter, shoots with a diameter smaller than a pencil will not have time to grow stronger and will freeze. Basic rules of procedure:
- Roses should be pruned in dry weather;
- You need to use a sharp pruner, and if the stem is thicker than 2 cm, it is better to use a garden saw;
- pruning is done to the white core of the branches;
- the procedure begins after the first flowering, and the cut is made approximately 8 millimeters above the location of the external growth buds (“eyes”);
- the correct cut is smooth, without jagged edges and tilted towards the bud up to 0.5 cm (if pruned incorrectly, the plant may die);
- The pruning area must be lubricated with garden varnish.
If you prune roses properly after flowering, you will stimulate their growth. If the rules of procedure are neglected, the bush may die. If the cut is made above the bud, the stem will dry out and die; below, damage to the “eye” may occur and infection may occur. If the cut is tilted incorrectly, the bud will begin to retain moisture, gradually rotting.
It is also worth pruning wild shoots that grow near rose bushes below the grafting site and at the roots. It is correct to remove such shoots immediately after detection and right down to the base, since they weaken the grafted crop, reducing its resistance to disease. You can identify wild growth by small leaves and rough stem.
If you see nut-like formations on the branches - galls, the stems with them must be cut off. The gall moth larvae breed in the galls; they feed on plant sap, depleting the rose.
Park roses
Despite the fact that this type of flower is resistant to low temperatures, they still need to be pruned to produce new side shoots next season. For this purpose, all strong growths after flowering of the plant are shortened by 5-10 cm. The correct procedure is this:
- pre-sterilize and sharpen instruments;
- define weak points bush (dry, damaged shoots growing below the grafting site, branches rubbing against each other, etc.);
- select optimal place cut (for long, thin shoots this is a height of 70-90 cm, but not lower than the red buds);
- remove all diseased branches, leaving only healthy wood;
- make cuts at an angle of 45 degrees and 0.5 cm above the healthy kidney;
- Cut off all faded inflorescences to the first leaf of a healthy bud.
Climbing
In this case, pruning roses after flowering involves removing old canes as new ones grow. It is correct to form the bushes horizontally, and be sure to completely remove 1-2 old branches. They are replaced by any new root shoots. If there are none, then a couple of old stems are cut to a height of 35-40 cm from the base. Other features of proper pruning of climbing roses:
- old branches need to be cut to the place where strong growth has appeared - it will serve as a conductor;
- short shoots that should bloom in the future are shortened to 2-3 buds (or up to 15 cm in length);
- weakened branches are shortened so that only 2-3 buds remain on them;
- the procedure should be carried out in August – September.
Video
Most rose bushes require repeated pruning throughout the year: in spring, summer and fall. All warm time Every year you need to do sanitary pruning: broken, diseased, old or simply excess shoots and leaves are constantly removed so that they do not take away the strength of the plant. Roses must be pruned after flowering to stimulate new growth and maintain the decorative appearance of the bush. Let's take a closer look at how to properly prune roses after flowering, and how pruning varietal roses should be carried out in accordance with the rules; it has its differences depending on the season and the variety of flowers.
Roses are the most famous, delightful and beautiful flowers. They are able to transform any place in a few seconds, making it romantic, fabulous and mysterious. They look great both on clubs and in a vase. However, in order for this plant to delight us with its beautiful appearance and rich flowering, it needs to create necessary conditions, in which they would feel comfortable.
It should also be taken into account that a large role in caring for roses need to pay them pruning , as this preserves the viability of plants. Plus, this will give the bush the desired shape, speed up its growth and have a beneficial effect on the abundance of flowering. It is precisely because of this that the competent pruning simply necessary for your roses .
Types of Rose Pruning
There are 4 types of pruning, each of them has its own effect on roses. So:
- Average. Do it for 7 kidneys. Thanks to it, decorativeness is ensured.
- Strong. Do it at the level of 4 buds from the base of the shoot. But keep in mind that it is used for weakened bushes as a last chance.
- Combined. This is the most popular look pruning, thanks to which flowering resumes very quickly.
- Weak. Used to remove faded inflorescences.
According to experts, pruning roses after flowering should be minimal. You must remove the inflorescences up to the first developed bud and, of course, the faded flowers. It is very important to consider the type of roses.
So, for example, for those plants that bloom in clusters, you need to trim the clusters under the 3rd leaf. Plus, pruning is best done on outdoor soil.
As for floribunda and hybrid tea roses, here you need to leave 3 leaves above the soil level.
If your roses bloom late and new shoots do not have time to bloom, then remove only faded flowers. But for “rambler” roses you need to remove the brushes down to the first leaf.
Important rules for pruning roses
When pruning roses, be sure to follow these rules:
- pruning should only be done with sharp scissors. This will help avoid torn cuts.
- Be sure to wash the instrument in hot water and disinfect.
- Be sure to remove diseased, weak and dead shoots.
- Also gently cut off growths that have thick, long hairs.
As you can see, pruning roses after flowering – easy work. However, be sure to follow all recommendations, as it depends on appearance plants.
Pruning roses - how to prune?
By pruning we stimulate the appearance of new buds. To prune a rose correctly, you need to cut at the outer bud. We are looking for a well-developed leaf, retreat 0.5 cm above the leaf and trim at 45 degrees. In this case, our bush will be correctly formed, the rose will be able to breathe, we will minimize the risk of diseases, because the bush will be well ventilated.
The magnificent flowering of the rose has its time, after which the shoots are crowned with fruits in the spirit of a rose hip. If you don’t interfere with the natural course of things, the rose bushes will remain there until autumn. But it’s worth shortening the flower shoots and, lo and behold, after some time they grow back. A little later they appear again luxurious flowers, taking us back to the beginning of summer.
Why prune roses after flowering?
After the rose blooms, it is necessary to trim, or rather, shorten the shoot on which there was a flower or a flower cluster. As a result, the plant will switch from the fruit formation program to the regeneration program. “Spent” inflorescences left on the bush look ugly, so they are cut off before mid-July-early August.
Rose fruits are left for the winter, but in the summer it is better to cut them off - they look too sloppy
From a dormant bud located at the base of the leaf, a new flowering shoot will begin to grow. A repeated, but artificially induced, wave of flowering will begin. The cut is made above the outer bud. Sometimes they talk about a cut above a leaf - this is the same thing as above a bud, because it is located at the base of the leaf. The cut location should be approximately 5 mm above the bud (or leaf petiole).
A cut above the lateral outer bud prevents thickening of the bush
This technique improves ventilation of the bush and prevents fungal diseases. The bush becomes more luxuriant, the shoots do not get tangled, the flowers do not rub against each other and the petals do not fly off prematurely.
Thickening shoots will grow from the lateral internal buds, directed into the bush
Blind shoots that for some reason do not have a growth bud at the end are also shortened.
In this blind shoot, the growth bud is damaged by the pest, so this shoot has no growth prospects
They grow to a certain length and stop developing. Such branches are shortened above the first outer lateral bud located below.
The blind shoot is cut off above the first developed lateral bud
To identify blind shoots, the bush is carefully sorted branch by branch. On some types of roses, the terminal buds are large, and on others they are small, so they may not be immediately noticeable.
These shoots have apical buds
There are several types of roses, differing in the type of flowering. Depending on this, the shoot is shortened to different heights.
Hybrid tea roses
This species is characterized by long stems, usually ending in one flower (although there are varieties with racemes). There are no side branches on the shoots.
Tea roses and floribunda roses are pruned above the 3rd or 4th leaf from the bottom.
The location of the cut is determined by moving upward from the base of the shoot - the cut is made above the 3rd or 4th leaf.
Although hybrid tea roses and floribundas are pruned low, new shoots have time to grow and bloom
Floribundas bloom like hybrid teas, but not with one flower, but with a brush. Both types are cut according to the same pattern.
The floribunda rose is also pruned low.
Video: pruning hybrid tea roses
Features of pruning climbing roses
The order of climbing roses consists of two main types - ramblers and climbing roses, or climbers. Without getting into the jungle of classification of both, let’s look at typical pruning for each species.
Roses Rambler
In climbing rambler roses, the first flowers open on last year's side shoots, after which the current year's shoots take over the baton. Thus, flowering is continuous.
Ramblers are great for decorating walls at home
Pruning is done only on last year's shoots: the cut is made above 5–6 leaves below the dry inflorescence. The shoots of the current year are left to bloom, form fruits, in a word, ripen. To enhance the formation of lateral flower-bearing branches, the top of the young shoot can be pinched 5–7 cm.
Video: pruning a climbing rose rambler
Climbers
Climber roses have shoots 3 m or more long, covered with large single flowers or flower clusters along the entire length.
Excellent climbers - neither a word nor a pen can describe them
Summer pruning involves shortening the main shoot by 1/3 of its length, which promotes branching and re-flowering. Dry inflorescences are removed from the remaining shoot.
Escapes climbing rose shorten and remove dried flowers
Proper completion of pruning - fertilizing
After pruning, the rose needs to be fed. To do this, use the following options:
- special fertilizer in accordance with the instructions;
- herbal infusion - 1–2 liters of infusion per 10 liters of water;
- fermented chicken manure or cow, horse manure - 1 liter per 10 liters of water.
Timing for pruning
Most roses bloom in June. Flower growers have enough time for pruning with all the ensuing circumstances. But if the first flowering due to some circumstances - weather, pests, diseases - has moved to the second half of summer, it is not advisable to carry out summer pruning. Because the plant does not have enough time for new flower shoots to mature.
The first snow did not harm the roses, but the frost would have killed both the flowers and the unripe shoots
If the region is characterized early firsts frosts, young shoots will be the first to suffer. Therefore, roses that bloom at the wrong time are not pruned. Fruits form on them and in this form the bush overwinters.
My mistakes and achievements
I have been growing eight varieties of roses for a long time, seven of which are multi-colored and one climbing. The names of the varieties have been forgotten, and I confess that I only recently learned what climbers or floribundas are. For a long time I carried out pruning on a whim; it’s surprising that all my “girls” are still alive and blooming beautifully. Main mistake consisted of plucking off spent flowers. After this, I was tormented by the question, why do the remains of the pedicels turn black, turning into something gangrenous?
Leaving the pedicels was a big mistake
I didn’t always pay attention to where the shoot was cut - above the bud or where it was convenient to reach. New shoots, of course, grew, but the protruding stump looked sad.
The shoot was cut at a random location between the buds, but not above the bud
Not correct pruning(not pinching) is not so catastrophic, new flowering shoots will grow. But it’s still sweeter to the heart when the pruning is done correctly. The rose bush seems to be filled with gratitude, and the twig, topped with a sharp bud, is in a hurry to grow and express its gratitude with a fragrant flower.
Either she guessed right, or she became smarter, but the pruning was done correctly
Summer pruning of roses after flowering will become the highest manifestation your love for her. The response will not take long, and the charming flowers will bloom again in your garden.
One of important points Caring for roses involves pruning them. If you prune roses correctly after flowering, this will help preserve decorative qualities plants, as well as stimulate growth and abundant flowering in the future.
Pruning roses in summer
It is important to prune roses after the first bloom. It's quite thin and painstaking work. The fact is that not every shoot really needs to be pruned. The main purpose of pruning roses during flowering is to force the plant to produce buds again after a while. This is especially important for standard and large-flowered varieties.
Perennial bushes also need anti-aging pruning. Exactly summer period is most suitable for this, since the cut dries quickly and the infection does not spread. To do everything right, you need to know some of the subtleties of summer pruning roses after flowering.
- Never remove a faded flower by simply pinching the stalk. This technique is only suitable for tulips or daffodils, and in the case of roses, this method will result in the flower on a weakened shoot being elongated and easily bending. It is correct to prune roses only to the nearest developed bud, as this will give a start to new strong shoots and abundant flowering.
- Not all flower growers know whether it is necessary to prune faded roses, and leave everything as is. And such pruning is actually necessary. As soon as the flower begins to fade, it must be removed immediately. The cut is made 8 mm above the next eye. At the same time, make sure that the shoot in this part is strong enough and will not sag in the future.
- Pruning large-flowered roses after flowering is slightly different. Along with the flower, stems with incomplete leaves and at least one five-fold leaf are also cut off. This technique awakens the rose to bloom.
- Pruning of multi-flowered roses in summer is carried out as follows: after wilting above the first leaf, the entire inflorescence is cut off completely.
- For standard varieties, it is important to control the direction of shoot growth. To do this, the largest eye is directed outward, as is done during spring pruning.
- Pruning roses after flowering in early autumn is not recommended. At the end of summer, it is better to leave the plant alone and give it. If you prune a shoot that was a flowering stimulator, then before the onset of cold weather new flower it simply won’t have time to develop. That is why cutting is not recommended at the end of summer - beginning of autumn.
- If at proper care your bushes are not going to bloom, perhaps the plant has blind shoots. To awaken a rose, you need to cut off the underdeveloped bud at the end of the shoot along with the adjacent leaf.
How to prune roses correctly?
After we figured out whether it is possible to prune roses in the summer, it's time to learn how to do it correctly. There are some simple ones, but important principles work during trimming:
Like rose hips, roses produce fruits after flowering. So constantly watch the plant and trick it: once you remove the seeds, it will signal the plant to produce them again.
One of the main secrets in growing roses is proper pruning. About how to do this, how the procedure differs in spring, autumn and as flowering fades, as well as everything else you need to know for correct formation and the development of the rose are described in this review.
When is the best time to prune roses?
The question of when exactly to prune roses arises first for novice gardeners. The answer to this is determined by several factors, in particular, the type of plant, its age, climate zone and growing conditions (greenhouse or open ground), as well as the result expected to be achieved.
However, proper pruning of roses should be carried out twice a year - in spring and autumn, and, contrary to existing misconceptions, the most important and responsible procedure is the one carried out at the beginning of the season, and not at the end. 
After winter sanitization Almost all types of roses must pass. Its goal, first of all, is to remove all old, dried and frozen stems, which will not only provide the bush with a healthy and beautiful appearance, but also stimulate the formation large quantity young shoots on which new buds will be formed.
In addition, at this time it is necessary to get rid of active growth at the base of the plant, which will divert its vital juices and prevent active flowering. Also, the purpose of spring pruning is to give the bush a beautiful and neat shape.
The procedure is carried out when the frosts have completely subsided, the rose has woken up, but new shoots from the swollen buds have not yet begun to grow. Depending on climate zone and weather conditions, this period may fall at the end of March - the first ten days of April.
Did you know? The easiest way to determine the right moment to prune rose bushes is to focus on forsythia - a ubiquitous shrub of the Olive family, covered in spring time abundant flowers of bright yellow color. It is the appearance of these flowers that is the signal to work with the rose.
Autumn pruning has completely different goals.
During this period, the gardener’s task is to prepare the plant for wintering as much as possible, namely:
- make the bush more compact so that it is more convenient to cover it (for this, all shoots are usually shortened to the same length);
- get rid of excessive thickening of the stems, which will limit the lighting of the bush;
- remove all diseased, damaged, dried out, as well as shoots that have not had time to form (the latter under conditions high humidity in the fall, in winter during the thaw, and also next spring with high probability may begin to rot under cover).
Video: autumn pruning of a ground cover rose and covering it for the winter
All bushes need to be pruned in the fall, regardless of age. The only exceptions can be those varieties that, thanks to their high winter hardiness, survive the winter without shelter (this, however, applies only to regions where frosts are not too severe).
As for the time for pruning, it should be determined based on the first drop in night temperature to negative values.
Important! If you prune a rose before the first frost, the plant will respond to the procedure as a stimulus to the formation of new shoots, thus the event will lead to a result that is exactly the opposite of what was expected.
In addition to the two types of pruning mentioned, there is another type of pruning - summer. As a rule, it concerns blooming roses, but in some cases it is useful to prune the bushes at the stage of laying buds. At this stage, the plant is freed from the weakest shoots, which formed later than others, lag behind in development and take away excess strength from the bush. In addition, if you wish to receive large flowers, it is also necessary to remove all the buds on each shoot except one, the largest. A bush pruned before flowering always looks more well-groomed and neat.
Video: summer pruning of rose bushes
As for dried flowers, they also need to be removed immediately, and pruning is not limited to the dried bud, but concerns the entire shoot at the level of one bud from the ground. Such a procedure not only deprives the plant of an unkempt appearance, but also stimulates the development of new stems and the laying of new buds (in some types of roses - in the same year, in others - in the next). Dry flowers left on a bush shade it, thereby slowing down growth and development, so experienced flower growers by the end of summer, thin the plant by at least two-thirds.
Tools for work
To carry out the procedure you will need the following tools and materials:
- pruner (it is better to use a tool with two cutting edges: it’s a little more difficult to use, but it stays sharp much longer);
- electric emery or other tool for sharpening pruners (if necessary);
- garden saw, garden knife, garden shears with long handles or a delimber for cutting thick stems;
- thick gloves;
- mat for knees;
- alcohol or potassium permanganate for disinfecting garden tools;
- garden pitch or Novikov liquid for processing cuts;
- copper sulfate 1% for subsequent treatment of the entire bush.
How to prune a rose correctly
In addition to the time of year, pruning roses has some features depending on the type and morphological features plants.
There are several different approaches to the classification of this noble flower, however, from the point of view of the approach to its formation, it is important to distinguish between the following types of roses:
- bush, or scrubs (Shrub);
- hybrid tea (Hybrid Tea);
- ground cover (Bodendecker);
- standard (Shtambe);
- climbing roses.
Bush
The bush rose must be pruned in such a way that there are three to five most developed shoots 10–20 cm long (3–4 buds each). All other stems are cut off completely, at ground level, or, as gardeners say, “to the ring.” When choosing the stem to be left, preference is given to younger ones (they can be easily distinguished by their lighter bark) and located in such a way that after pruning they do not interfere or shade each other.
Important! The weaker the bush, the more it needs to be pruned: this procedure does not harm the plant, but, on the contrary, strengthens its immunity, including in terms of resisting diseases and pests. On the contrary, insufficient thinning of the bush provokes the formation of a large number of small and weak shoots.
You should always remove:
- dry wood (young shoots do not grow from it, while it occupies the place where they could appear);
- stems directed towards the center of the bush and crossing with others;
- dark brown branches;
- shoots appearing below the level of the first bud.
Hybrid tea
This category of roses is the most popular among gardeners due to their large beautiful flowers and a long, practically uninterrupted flowering period. The purpose of pruning such plants is primarily to form a large spherical bush and stimulate the development of powerful root shoots. It is important to know that the buds of hybrid tea roses are formed on young shoots, so old ones can be safely removed, and faded ones can be shortened.
Did you know? The first hybrid tea rose is considered to be the “La France” variety, bred in 1867 by the French breeder Jean-Baptiste Andre Guillot, who managed to cross the tea and remontant roses. At the same time, two more varieties claim the same title - “Cheshunt Hybrid” and “Madame Lacharme”, bred five years later.
Pruning hybrid tea roses is carried out as follows:- Before planting a seedling (it is best to do this in the fall), its stems are shortened and the longest, diseased, damaged roots are pruned.
- After wintering at young bush all shoots are leveled at a height of 15 cm (five to six eyes should remain on the stems).
- In the fall, before sheltering, the rose is freed from all dry shoots that have not had time to form buds, all others are shortened by a third.
- In subsequent years, in the spring, the rose is pruned at the level of 20–25 cm or 5–6 buds; as the shoots form, those growing inward and intersecting are removed, and in the fall, old and immature stems are removed, and the rest are shortened.
Video: proper pruning of hybrid tea roses
The borderline position between hybrid tea and polyanthus roses is occupied by the so-called floribundas. These roses need to be pruned less radically than hybrid tea roses. So, in the spring, it is enough to shorten last year’s shoots by a third, and cut all older stems by about two-thirds of their height.
Ground cover
Ground cover roses are a completely special class hybrid plants, which are capable of creeping along the ground, covering a bright and fragrant carpet with sufficient large areas. Despite the fact that it would seem there is no need to form such a bush, contrary to the existing misconception, it needs pruning no less than other varieties of noble flowers.
This procedure has its own characteristic features, namely:
- Before planting, long and diseased roots, as well as damaged and weakened shoots, are removed from the bush.
- After the rose has bloomed for the first time, it is necessary to cut off all the branches on which the flowers were formed, that is, in fact, radically trim the bush, leaving only the young shoots of the current year on it. But even they should be carefully assessed, removing the weakest ones and shortening all others to a height of 10–15 cm (2–3 eyes).
- In the spring, small sanitary pruning is carried out to remove interfering and frozen shoots.
- The shoots that point upward, rather than creeping toward the ground like a fountain, should be cut off.
- In the autumn of the second and subsequent years of the year, only half of the faded shoots are completely cut off, the rest are shortened to 2-3 buds. The middle of the bush is thinned out so that the branches do not intersect each other.
Some gardeners practice a slightly different approach to pruning ground cover roses, carrying out the above-mentioned procedure of radically shortening the bush not every fall, but only once every five or six years. But even these experts agree that periodic pruning is necessary for the plant, otherwise it will simply stop flowering.
Standard
A standard rose is a noble variety or hybrid grafted onto a specially formed straight trunk (standard) of a wild rose or rose hip. Since grafting is usually done at a height of half a meter to two meters, the result is a plant that is a lush bush rising above a thin stalk. Such an unusual structure requires a very special approach to shaping and pruning.
Did you know? If you use a ground cover or climbing mushroom as a scion, you can get a very unusual and beautiful “weeping” rose.
In the spring annual plant Dead shoots are removed, and all others are shortened at a level of 15 cm from the base (grafting site) so that 3–5 buds remain on each branch.
Before wintering, dried, damaged shoots that have not had time to bloom are removed from the bush, and those that did bloom are shortened.
In subsequent years spring pruning involves the removal of old, intersecting and interfering branches, all others are formed as follows: adult side branches are cut off at a height of 10 cm (2–4 buds), young ones - at a height of 15 cm (3–5 buds). You need to be especially careful to ensure that the middle of the bush is not too thick. In the fall, after flowering, standard sanitary pruning is performed. 
Required element of trimming standard roses is to remove all shoots and shoots that appear below the grafting site (wild rose hips will grow from it).
Climbing
Many amateur flower growers answer the question of whether climbing roses need to be pruned. However, in reality this is not the case. If you allow the vine to develop “at its own discretion,” within a few years it will turn into a huge and untidy green area, which will be difficult to even approach.
Some difficulties in studying the peculiarities of pruning climbing roses are that this category of plants is very heterogeneous in its composition. Lianas include roses that differ radically from each other in different criteria, including the nature of flowering. It is these differences that determine the pruning method.
There are several different classifications of climbing roses according to the method of their formation, but the simplest is the division of plants into single-flowering and multi-flowering ones. Let's look at the features of pruning each of these types.Once blooming
This category of vines is characterized by the fact that its flowers form on the shoots of the previous year. Based on this, it is necessary to leave from six to ten shoots on the bushes, carefully ensuring that half of them are two-year-old stems (they are the ones that will form buds), while the second half is a “bookmark” for the next year.
In September, when the rose has faded, all the stems on which flowers formed are cut off, since they will no longer bloom.
Video: pruning once-blooming climbing roses
Reblooming
A distinctive feature of these vines is that flowers bloom on the same shoot for several years in a row, and several “tiers” of branches can extend from the main stem, on each of which, sometimes up to the fifth, flowers appear from year to year . Such a rose does not need to be prevented from revealing its full “potential” by the annual removal of flowering shoots; it is enough to carry out such a renewal procedure only after the fourth year, since subsequently flowering on the old stem gradually begins to lose intensity.
If the main work of forming is one-time blooming roses carried out in the summer, then re-blooming ones have the most important time the year is spring. During this period, it is necessary to carefully evaluate the bush and shape it in such a way that the number of shoots suitable for flowering this year is from three to seven. Their gradual replacement should be ensured by two or three young annual stems; all other emerging shoots can be removed.
Important! In order not to remember how many years a particular branch has bloomed, there is a simple rule: for a climbing rose, the number of old shoots removed should always correspond to the number of young shoots that appeared at the base of the plant. The same method is used when there is doubt about which variety a particular rose belongs to.
The rules of formative pruning described above do not cancel the sanitary procedures for removing old and interfering branches, as well as dried flowers.
General rules for pruning roses
Regardless of what time of year and for what category of roses pruning is carried out, during the work you must be guided by the following standard set of rules:
Pruning roses is a troublesome procedure, but absolutely necessary. Not only the appearance of the bush, but also the speed of its growth and the intensity of flowering directly depends on the regularity and correctness of its implementation. There is no need to feel sorry for the plant: pruning does not weaken it, but, on the contrary, makes it healthier and stronger. 
