Why a climbing rose does not bloom for the second year. The reasons why the rose does not bloom have been established. The influence of the external pathogenic environment

Let's find out in more detail what a climbing rose is. Planting and care in the open field for this marvelous flower will be discussed in stages in this article. Proper planting is the key to abundant and long flowering. How to care for climbing roses? Summer residents and gardeners appreciate the weaving variety of roses. They know that with the help of climbing roses you can turn even the most modest area into a beautiful romantic corner.

Climbing roses, description

Shoots of climbing roses can reach several meters. Any support located in close proximity to the bush is quickly entwined with its long and flexible branches. You have probably admired the flower arches of amazing beauty more than once. Flower columns, pyramids, trellises, well-camouflaged old buildings, part of a wall or roof - any garden structure can be decorated with its presence by a luxurious climbing rose. This type of plant is ideal for vertical gardening, however, in order for everything to look harmonious and attractive, you should know the rules for planting, pruning, caring for and protecting bushes from pests.

The color scheme of this type of rose is as diverse as that of their park or ground cover relatives. Bud sizes can be from 2.5 to 12 cm in diameter, varieties of climbing roses bloom in June and continue to bloom as long as the warm season lasts (approximately 30-170 days, depending on the variety). There are many varieties of climbing roses, but all of them can be divided into groups:

• Semi-climbing, whose height reaches 1.5-3 meters.
• Climbing - 3-5 meters.
• Curly - 5-15 meters.

The shoots of these roses are formed continuously, the phases of budding and flowering differ, again, depending on the variety. Among these representatives there are both once flowering species and re-flowering.

Climbing rose, photo:

The buds of certain varieties can exude a pronounced aroma that is heard at a distance, some are fragrant slightly audibly, subtly and gently.

How to plant a climbing rose, choosing a place

This culture will thrive in sunny places with good ventilation. Wetlands are strictly contraindicated for her, as well as sandstones and heavy clay soil. In general, loose loams or fertile soils with good soil permeability are most suitable for this type of rose. If your site is dominated by unsuitable soil for climbing roses, then be sure to dilute it with suitable soil. Thus, sand is added to clay soil, and clay is added to sandy soil (to a depth of about 30 cm), in addition, humus or humus, as well as phosphorus additives, should be added.

All procedures for adapting the land should be carried out six months before planting roses, or at least 2 months before. Experienced gardeners recommend planting climbing roses where their counterparts have not grown before. If it doesn’t work out otherwise, then before planting, you need to replace the top layer of the earth (by 50-70 cm). Ideally, climbing roses should be planted on a slight hill. The root system of these plants goes deep into the soil (up to 2 meters), so you should make sure in advance that the groundwater at the chosen place does not pass close to the top layer of soil.

If you decide to “drape” a part of the wall of the house with a climbing rose, then the distance between the bush and the wall should be at least 60 cm (and at least half a meter from other plants). Most often, climbing roses are planted in the last weeks of September or in the first half of October. Thus, before the onset of serious cooling, the roots will have time to take root in a new place. With the advent of spring, all parts of the plant will enter a phase of active development and growth, and by the beginning of summer, the rose will bloom in lush color. If a climbing rose is planted in the ground in spring, then by this moment it should warm up to at least +10 ° C, catch the moment when the buds have not yet blossomed - this is important. The second half of April / the first weeks of May are the most optimal times for spring planting.

Planting a climbing rose when spring or fall is best

I will make a reservation right away that the rules for planting seedlings in spring are not much different from autumn ones. You should be prepared for the fact that roses planted in the spring will be a little behind in development, will require you to pay more attention to your person. Compared to their autumn counterparts, they can delay flowering by about 10 days.

All the stages described, as well as subsequent care, are applied both in spring and autumn.

• So, before planting, the seedling needs to shorten the branches, up to about 20 cm in length, the roots, too, up to 30 cm.
• Dig a large hole for the roots to grow. The depth of the pit should be 60-70 cm.
• If you plant several bushes, then the distance between them should be at least 100 cm. When immersing the seedling in the soil, make sure that the root neck is also deepened by 12-15 cm - this will protect it from frost in the cold season.
• The roots are gently straightened, covered with soil, lightly compacted with your hands. Make sure that all the roots are pointing down and not bent up!
• Planting a climbing rose in the spring involves introducing nutritious soil into the hole. Approximately 3-5 kg, for example, peat compost, will please your rose.
• After planting, the soil is slightly trampled down and watered abundantly.
• It will be very good if you add a preparation with beneficial bacteria that stimulate growth, for example, Phosphobacterin, to the water for this first watering. Phytohormone "Heteroauxin" is also great.

In some cases, summer residents cover newly planted bushes with plastic wrap - this technique contributes to better adaptation of plants in a new place. It is up to you to do this or not to do it, if the weather conditions of your region push you to create greenhouse conditions for climbing roses, then do not forget to lift the film daily and gradually increase the airing time every day. After stable warm weather is established, remove the film and mulch the ground around the bushes with leaf humus, peat, chopped tree bark or straw.

How to plant a climbing rose in the spring, bought in a store?

Today in flower shops you can buy climbing rose seedlings with an open or closed root system.

Representatives with open roots should be immediately planted in the ground. When choosing, pay attention to the presence of lignified shoots - there should be at least two of them. Such an escape must be mature (bend with a crunch), otherwise the rose may not survive the winter. The bush as a whole should look healthy, have well-developed roots, strong, without dried fragments. The length of the shoots should be at least 60-70 cm.

Varieties of climbing roses with a closed root system are sold in pots, so you will not be able to immediately assess the condition of the roots. Carefully inspect the shoots, they should look healthy, not very elongated, if they have a light green color, then it is better to refrain from buying.

The elongation of the shoots and their light shade indicate improper storage of seedlings - either in excessive heat or in insufficient light. Such a rose will be weak, painful, unlikely to survive the winter.

Close attention should also be paid to the grafting sites; a properly grafted cutting should have callus tissue at the “junction” site, which promotes fusion. If the vaccination site is peeling and looks unhealthy, then you will only have problems with such a rose.

Planting a climbing rose from the store in spring, steps:

1. A rose with a closed root system is carefully removed from the pot along with an earthen clod, and then planted in the chosen place. For representatives with an open root system, remove the film from the roots, put them in water. If there are buds or shoots below the grafting site, we remove them. If there is wild growth, we also remove it, too long shoots can be pinched. Do not forget to powder the cut points with powdered charcoal or activated charcoal.
2. The roots should be in the water for 3-4 hours, so the plant will be saturated with moisture, the transport soil will become soft, it can be easily removed and the root system carefully examined. You can first add the Kornevin stimulator to the water (according to the instructions).
3. We take the roses out of the water, gently straighten the roots if possible and place the seedling in the dug hole. About what the pit should be and how to mix the soil (if the situation requires it) has already been described a little higher. Water the rose well.
4. After the water is absorbed, you can add more earth (spud). When refilling the soil, the grafting site can be covered with a layer of soil, but not more than 3 cm.
5. If the spring sun shines too brightly, do not be too lazy to cover the young bush with a paper bag or light-colored cloth - this way it is guaranteed not to burn. This protective coating can be left for 5-7 days.

Climbing roses, care and cultivation

In heat and drought, rose bushes should be watered once every five days. After 20 days after planting, you need to carefully rake the soil from the bush. By the way, roses planted in autumn also open after winter in the first weeks of April. For this procedure, it is advisable to choose a non-solar day, so that subsequently the plant does not experience stress during the night temperature drop. Make sure that the grafting site remains buried in the soil by about 10 cm.

During the growing season, the climbing rose requires generous watering. After the appearance of the buds, as well as after the formation of the bush, the plant should be watered every 10 days. At the same time, water should penetrate to the very roots and deeper, 10-12 liters per bush will be enough. A couple of days after rain or watering, you need to loosen the soil around the rose. It can also be mulched. Both waterlogging and lack of moisture are equally harmful for roses, so follow the golden mean in this matter.

Climbing rose, photo:

How to fertilize climbing roses

Fertilizer is an important step in caring for a climbing rose, because this species is quite picky about top dressing. Throughout the summer, nitrogen supplements should alternate with complex fertilizers, they are recommended to be applied every 2-3 weeks. With the onset of spring, the plant is fed with a complex mineral fertilizer, for example, Agricola-Rosa (according to the instructions). After two or three weeks, you can add organics - fertilizer "Ideal" or "Flower". You can also use the old proven method - 10 liters of mullein and 3 kg of wood ash, diluted in 50 liters of water. It is recommended to dilute one liter of this mixture in 10 liters of water, and then pour the plant under the root with the resulting composition. From about the second week of July, you can start slowly making phosphorus and potassium supplements in order to prepare the bushes in advance for the upcoming winter. Carefully read the dosage of drugs in the instructions, remember that by overfeeding the rose with chemistry, you can simply ruin it.

Climbing rose care in the first year of planting

How does it differ from the standard requirements? From competent care in the first year of a plant's life depends on its further development and flowering splendor. When new shoots appear, the soil from the bushes is removed (the one that was used for hilling). If there are sunny days, then at first light shading with coniferous spruce branches will not hurt. After 10-12 days after the removal of the hilling soil, you can proceed to the first pruning of the central shoot. It should be shortened above the second or third sheet. A little later, with the lateral branches of the second order, you need to do a similar procedure, while the eyes “looking” inside the bush are to be removed, and those eyes that are located on the outside are left for further proper formation of the shrub.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year also involves removing the buds, no matter how strange it may sound. From the beginning of flowering until the first weeks of August, it is recommended to leave only two flowers on each branch. With the advent of autumn, these flowers will turn into boxes with seeds (fruits), and after the manipulations, your rose will bloom especially magnificently next year.

Pruning climbing roses or how to prune a climbing rose

Is a climbing rose pruned in autumn for the winter? If other types of roses can simply be spud, then the climbing one must be covered completely - this factor does not depend on your region of residence. You can choose one of the thermal insulation methods, in the first case, the ground part of the bush is removed from the support, the foliage is removed, and all weak and old shoots are cut off.

Here you will have to choose 10-12 of the strongest and healthiest branches (remaining after pruning), combine them into one bunch, rewind with twine and gently tilt to the ground. With the help of metal staples (we cut the wire into fragments and bend), the branches are fixed on the ground, and then covered with appropriate protective material. If there are several shrubs, they are located in close proximity to each other, then they can be covered with one common covering sheet. In the second case, everything happens in a similar way, only in this case the plant is not removed from the support, but is securely wrapped with protective material right on it. The base of the bush is spudded in the manner described above.

How to prune a climbing rose? This important agrotechnical care measure should be given special attention. Pruning helps to properly form the crown of the plant, promotes generous and long flowering, and has a positive effect on the health and vitality of the climbing rose. Immediately after planting, all shoots are shortened by 20-30 cm; in the summer, faded buds and branches growing inside the crown (thickening it) are cut off.

Starting from the second year of the plant's life, pruning is done at the end of the flowering phase.

How to prune climbing roses after flowering? They bloom around the end of August - September (depending on the climate in the region), at which time all diseased and dead branches should be removed. The oldest shoots (we choose 1 or 2) are cut off completely, subsequently they will be successfully replaced by young basal processes. If these processes are not present, then about 40 cm from the base should be measured from the old branches, and the rest should be removed - this procedure is aimed at activating the growth of the replacement root branches.

The remaining (not very old) shoots are cut off in the place where a new powerful growth began to form, subsequently it will act as a conductor. Short flower stalks are cut to 2 or 3 buds (about 15-17 cm from the base of the branch), weak stems are cut to 3 buds (also measured from the base). The skeleton (base) of the crown should be formed from the strongest, correctly growing shoots (evenly directed), on which young branches will then form.

How to cut a climbing rose in spring? You should pick up a pruner when buds begin to swell on the branches from below (the last weeks of April / early May), not earlier. If you start pruning too early, then during night frosts the branches may simply freeze, as a result of which the rose will bloom much later than the due date. If you miss the pruning time, then the plant will throw all its forces into the formation of new branches and foliage, and flowering will be poor.

Pruning climbing roses in the spring has one important point - removal, namely, cutting off (not cutting) wild shoots that have grown below the grafting site. Usually this situation becomes apparent after the spring opening of the bushes. Also at this time, all diseased, frozen branches are removed, all affected fragments are clearly visible in the spring, when buds swell on the “living” branches.

Transplanting a climbing rose to another place

Sometimes, due to inexperience, the gardener chooses an unfortunate place where the plant feels uncomfortable and sick. In such cases, the situation can be corrected by transplantation. The best time for this operation is autumn, September or the first weeks of October. It is not recommended to transplant later, as the rose needs time to adapt to a new place of residence before the onset of cold weather.

However, if circumstances so require, transplanting a rose in a climbing spring to another place is also possible. As soon as the earth thaws after winter frosts, and the buds on the branches of roses have not yet had time to wake up, you can get down to business. To do this, the ground part of the plant is removed from the support, the bush itself is carefully dug (moving in a circular fashion), about 50-60 cm recede from the base of the plant. Do everything very carefully so as not to damage the root system of the rose, even if the pit is deeper than necessary, but the roots will remain safe and sound.

When transplanting, the same rules are followed as with standard planting - the roots straighten out and go down, the free space in the pit is filled with the appropriate soil mixture, the soil is lightly tamped and generously watered.

After 3-4 days, you should add earth (it will settle slightly), spud your rose.

There is one interesting nuance associated with transplanting roses - their belonging to the groups of climbers and ramblers. I will allow myself a small digression: all varieties of climbing roses can be figuratively divided into these two groups:

• climbers;
• ramblers.

Varieties of climbing climber roses are called climbers, they form rough and thick branches that can reach 3-5 m in length. Climber shoots are not very flexible; when transplanting, they must be cut to half the entire length!

Ramblers are precisely climbing roses with flexible and soft whip shoots, the length of which can reach 10 meters. Rambler roses are characterized by active growth; when transplanted, they cut off all shoots that are more than two years old. All young branches are left intact, but at the end of the calendar summer they must pinch the tops - this technique speeds up the lignification of the branches.

How to propagate a climbing rose?

There are four ways to propagate this rose: seeds, cuttings, cuttings and grafting. The most common and convenient option is cuttings. Seed propagation is possible only if the seed is purchased from the appropriate store. As you know, self-collected seeds from climbing roses growing in your country house or garden do not carry varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

Growing climbing roses from seed

Pre-soak the seeds in 3% hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes. Such disinfection creates a shield against the appearance of mold in the subsequent stages of growing the plant. After we remove the seeds from the solution, lay them on a thin layer of cotton wool, again impregnated with hydrogen peroxide, cover with a similar cotton layer on top, which is also impregnated with peroxide.

The resulting "sandwich" is placed in a plastic bag and hidden in the refrigerator, in the compartment for greens and vegetables. We periodically inspect the seeds, change the cotton layers to new ones (also impregnated with hydrogen peroxide).

After 40-50 days, the already germinated seed can be carefully transferred to peat tablets or small plastic cups with the appropriate earth mixture. Seedling cassettes are also suitable.

Young shoots should be watered as the soil dries. In order for plants to develop properly, they need to provide daily lighting for 10 hours. If you do everything right, then a couple of months after planting the seeds in tablets or cassettes, the first buds may appear on young roses. With the advent of spring, new livestock are planted in open ground.

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings

This is the easiest way to breed, almost always giving a 100% positive result. For cutting cuttings, already faded or still flowering branches are suitable for you, which are taken from the rose in the very middle of summer, on the 10th of July.

The cut fragment should have at least two internodes, the location of the lower cut (45º angle) should be located close to the kidney. The upper cut (smooth) is carried out at a considerable distance from the kidney.

Next, all the lower leaves are cut off from the cutting, and the upper ones are cut in half. A cutting is placed in a previously prepared container with sand or with a mixture of sand and soil, deepened by about 1-2 cm, covered with a glass jar on top and cleaned in a well-lit place.

Now you will need to periodically water the stalk (without removing the banks) and make sure that it does not fall into direct sunlight.

Reproduction of climbing roses by layering

In the spring, from the shoots growing from below, we select the most attractive one and make cuts on it, right under the buds. Next, we make a small groove bed about 10 cm wide, put a thin layer of humus on the bottom of the groove, sprinkle it on top with the same layer of soil. Now we carefully bend the shoot, put it in the groove and fix it with metal brackets. After we fill the shoot with soil, but leave the top looking out. Then, as usual, we take care of the bush, but do not forget to water and fertilize the place of the buried shoot. After a year, when spring comes, the cuttings can be cut off from the bush and planted in a separate place as a full-fledged plant.

Propagation of roses by grafting (budding) on ​​wild rose

A climbing rose can be grafted onto a wild rose bush - this technique is quite often used by gardeners and summer residents. The best time for this operation is the last weeks of July or the first half of August. Before budding, the wild rose should be generously watered.

Right on the root neck of the shrub, an incision is made in the bark in the form of the letter “T”, after which the edges of the bark are slightly pulled back. In this kind of "pocket" is placed a peephole cut from a climbing rose. The peephole must be separated from the rose along with the bark and a small piece of wood.

Next, we firmly press the eye to the neck of the rootstock and also tightly wrap this place with a special film for budding (freely sold in flower shops). After all the manipulations, the rosehip bush is spudded, and so that the soil rises 5 cm above the grafting site (this is the minimum). After two or three weeks, the film can be slightly loosened, and with the advent of a new spring, it is removed for good.

Climbing rose does not bloom - why?

This can also happen, at least on flower forums, gardeners often ask each other a similar question. Empirically, 7 factors were found out that affect the absence of flowers in climbing roses.

Climbing rose - diseases and pests

At the initial stage, aphids can be removed from the branches by hand, after putting on garden gloves, but as soon as they feel like a full owner, you will need the help of chemicals. Insecticides "Sharpei", "Aktara", "Inta-Vir", as well as the good old "Karbofos" are guaranteed to help you deal with this problem.

If you want to try the so-called folk methods of struggle, then grate laundry soap (1 tablespoon) and dissolve it in 1 liter of water. Irrigate rose bushes with this solution for a week, after which remove all affected fragments - it should help.

The spider mite loves heat and drought, a silvery coating on the foliage is a sign of the presence of an intruder. Old methods of struggle with the help of thick tobacco infusion or wormwood decoction give very good results. Contact ascaricide "Neoron" is one of the best means of protecting roses from spider mites. One ml of the drug is dissolved in a liter of water, after which the bushes are irrigated. Sometimes a double treatment of roses with this preparation is enough for the tick to give up its positions. Bio-insecticide "Fitoverm" also proved to be excellent in this matter.

According to the reviews of experienced gardeners, the drug "Aktara" works great against the rose sawfly. Preparations "Aktellik" and "Phosbecid" (15 ml per 10 liters of water) also show a good result, extending not only to the sawfly, but also to other "lovers" of climbing roses.

In addition to all of the above, I would like to remind you about the spring and autumn spraying of roses with Bordeaux liquid - this is important.

Among the diseases of climbing roses, the most dangerous are: bacterial cancer, gray rot, powdery mildew, coniothyrium (bark burn).

There is no cure for some diseases (bacterial cancer), but taking prevention seriously minimizes the risk of disease.

Disinfection of the root system in a solution of three percent copper sulphate (before planting), removal of suspicious fragments and rapid irrigation of wound sites with the same copper sulphate are the most commonly recommended preventive measures.

Conyothyrium infestation can be detected in the spring, as soon as the protective cover is removed from the roses. In this case, you need to immediately cut off the diseased branches (with the capture of healthy fragments) and burn them. Until the moment the kidneys awaken, the plant can be treated with 3% iron sulphate, the ground around the bush must also be irrigated. The same Bordeaux liquid or the drug "Abiga-Peak" can also participate in the case, while the buds have not yet blossomed.

In principle, to combat other diseases of roses, the usual scheme works - removing the affected areas and their subsequent burning, abundant irrigation of the plant with a solution of ferrous sulfate (3%), copper sulfate (2%) or Bordeaux liquid (3%). Such sprays are often carried out in three stages (with a weekly interval), but sometimes, especially at an early stage, one treatment may be enough.

Climbing roses - photos and names of winter-hardy varieties

The dream of any gardener is to make your favorite flowers delight your eyes with lush buds for as long as possible and endure wintering. It is simply unrealistic to mention all winter-hardy and long-blooming varieties of climbing roses, but I would like to highlight some of them, briefly describe their main qualities.

Climbing rose "Iceberg"

It fully justifies its name, its snow-white buds will bloom for a very long time (until autumn) and abundantly. Re-blooming is a distinctive feature of this rose, it grows quite quickly and in the shortest possible time can braid the arch or wall of the building. The plant is unpretentious, cold-resistant, the aroma is weakly expressed.

Variety "Iceberg", photo:

Climbing rose "Lavinia"

It boasts cup-shaped flowers of a rich pink hue, undemanding to care, re-blooming, aroma with light notes of nutmeg. It grows up to 3 m in height, has good immunity to most diseases of roses, blooms continuously until the first frost.

Variety "Lavinia", photo:

Variety "Polka"

It is characterized by undulating flowering, about five waves per summer. The buds are terry, apricot hue, gradually turning into a cream color. Very fond of sunlit places, has good disease resistance, can grow up to 3 m in height. This variety has powerful and spreading shoots with large thorns, the aroma is weak.

Photo of a climbing rose variety "Polka":

Climbing rose "Don Juan"

Luxurious terry rose with large (12 cm in diameter) deep red flowers. It is an excellent option for decorating the walls of buildings and any vertical supports. It grows up to 3.5 m in height, loves the sun, but also blooms in partial shade without problems. These roses can be cut to make bouquets, they are very fragrant and keep fresh for a long time.

Variety "Don Juan", photo:

Variety "Flamentants"

This rose is considered one of the most attractive climbing representatives of red. Her buds are large (8 cm in diameter), terry, multi-petal. It has increased frost resistance, powerful bushes can reach 2-3 m in height. With proper care, this variety can grow and bloom in one place for about 20 years. The aroma of the rose is very gentle, but not very pronounced.

Photo of Flamentanz roses:

Climbing rose "Handel"

The buds of this variety have a very interesting color - white-pink, with bright crimson edges and a slightly yellowish center. The buds are large, about 10 cm in diameter, the bush grows up to 2.5-3 m in height. The rose is re-blooming, disease resistance is average, black spot and ashtray should be avoided.

Variety "Handel", photo:

Variety "Bobby James"

Small-flowered representative, but the most attractive in its category. It can reach 8 m in height, disease resistant, semi-double white flowers with a yellow center (about 4.5 cm in diameter), outwardly reminiscent of cherry flowers. It has a pronounced musky aroma, during flowering the branches are simply covered with buds, so that foliage is almost invisible behind them. The buds themselves have the peculiarity of slowly opening for about 10-12 days. Spectacular and incredibly luxurious variety

Photo rose variety "Bobby James":

Climbing rose "Golden Perfume"

A re-blooming variety that blooms slowly, to the delight of gardeners. Large buds (up to 10 cm in diameter) of this rose exude a very strong aroma that can be heard even from afar. Flowers of a rich bright yellow hue will decorate the bush until the arrival of the first frost. Shoots grow up to 2-3 m in height, the foliage also looks very attractive - rich green, dense, creating a beautiful contrast with yellow flowers.

Variety "Golden Perfume", photo:

Variety "Parade"

One of the most winter-hardy re-blooming climbing roses, with large (10 cm in diameter) multi-petal buds of a juicy cherry hue or rich dark pink. Luxurious inflorescences are so large and heavy that the shoots literally bend from their weight. Blooms throughout the summer, blooms slowly, reaches 2-3.5 m in height, resistant to precipitation.

Roses of the Parade variety, photo:

Climbing rose "Schwanensee"

Another variety with increased cold resistance. The multi-petal buds of this rose have a classic shape, medium size (7-9 cm in diameter) and a very delicate color - white, with a creamy pink core. Schwanensee blooms until frost, slowly blooming and spreading a delicate, refined aroma. The variety is hardy, re-blooming, resistant to precipitation. The bush can reach 3 m in height.

Variety "Schwanensee", photo:

Sort "Casino"

This rose is suitable for cutting into a bouquet, has a bright fruity aroma, lemon-colored buds are most beautiful when open. A multi-petalled variety, the diameter of a double flower reaches 9-11 cm, its color is darker inside, the outer petals are paler. The bush grows up to 3-4 m in height, blooms profusely, luxuriantly, repeatedly throughout the summer.

Climbing rose variety "Casino", photo:

Of course, a climbing rose will require you to spend time and effort, but, you see, its luxurious beauty fully justifies such “sacrifices”. Follow all the above recommendations, carefully consider the choice of residence for the rose.

Do not plant it near bushes and trees with powerful roots, do not forget to feed it with appropriate fertilizers in time.

Provide her with a reliable support, the types of which I will tell you in the next article.

Let a climbing rose be sure to settle in your area. Planting and care in the open field, the nuances of reproduction and replanting, a rough idea of ​​​​individual varieties - you now know all this and can put my advice into practice.

The following videos will successfully complement the article:

Roses decorate parks and gardens with exquisite flowers. And, when suddenly flowering does not occur, gardeners, especially inexperienced ones, begin to panic. The reasons why a rose does not bloom are numerous: age, lack of attention, improper pruning.

General rules for caring for roses

Outdoor roses, as well as domestic roses, need a certain level of soil moisture, proper pruning, and winter rest.

Pre-winter pruning

Every year, so that roses can fully relax in the winter and gain strength, autumn pruning is carried out. After it in the spring, the shrub will be able to bloom much earlier. If the reason for the lack of color lies only in the absence of pruning, then by the summer it will be possible to admire the blooming buds.

The rose does not bloom

The most favorable time for pruning is when the night temperature approaches zero degrees and will stay at this mark for some time. If the procedure is carried out earlier, during a warmer period, then the bush can continue to grow, forming young shoots. Frosts will destroy them, and the flower will lose strength.

Important! Pruning is carried out over the cinquefoil, strong and developed, the kidney should be external.

The trimmed bush can withstand temperatures down to -10 ° C without additional shelter. For a quiet wintering, the plant is covered using a dry leaf, sawdust, spruce branches. Many flower growers cover the garden bush with plastic bags and dig in the bottom with earth to create a more comfortable wintering condition for the crop.

The indoor flower also needs rest. Continuous flowering can quickly deplete the plant.

When flowering is over, cut off the trunk. The old stem is removed at the root, the height of the stumps should not exceed 3 cm. A strong young shoot is cut off above the fifth bud.

Important! On the shoot of a room rose, there must be leaves.

After that, flower pots are taken out to a cool room.

Transfer

Garden roses can also be grown in pots, but their root system develops faster. In this regard, it is necessary to transplant annually, each time increasing the volume of the pot. However, no matter what size the flowerpot is, for 5-7 years the flower must be planted outside.

Rose transplant

For indoor varieties, you can not immediately use a large flowerpot. Until the roots fill the entire volume, the rose will not bloom. You can correct this error by transplanting into a smaller flowerpot.

Important! A spray rose transplant is carried out a month before the pre-winter pruning.

Watering and fertilizing

Garden flowers, and especially indoor flowers, need fertilizing and watering. If you stop watering a garden flower, it will be able to get the necessary moisture from the soil and survive the forced drought, while a rose in a pot will completely dry out in a few days.

Immediately before autumn pruning, watering garden bushes is stopped. An excess of moisture in the soil will negatively affect the root system.

Watering resumes after the earth dries out from melt water. At the same time, nitrogen is introduced to make the plant bush more intensively.

Feeding roses

rose health

Any rose loves spraying with cool water. From this procedure, new buds form faster and their color is richer. After spraying, the room is ventilated. With stagnation and lack of air, indoor roses get sick.

A rose will signal a lack of moisture with yellowing and drying leaves. On hot summer days, when the buds begin to bloom intensively, the frequency of watering and spraying increases.

Important! Watering in the heat is carried out in the early morning and evening. If spraying is carried out during the day, the drops will act as a lens and can burn out the leaf.

Some varieties of roses cannot bloom because they have a bad neighbor in the flower bed. Lilac, spirea, mock orange prevent roses from blooming. They oppress the flower, actively taking away food. You should help the rose and transplant it to another place.

How many times a year do roses bloom

The nature of flowering subdivides plants into single and re-blooming. Many species form buds on last year's shoots. Wild roses bloom first, but their flowering is short and single.

wild roses

Garden roses bloom a little later, but among them there are varieties that have a repeated flowering period. The second time roses bloom weaker, their flowers are smaller.

Modern selection has provided a huge number of varieties of re-blooming roses that decorate the garden until frost. It is very rare to see when a rose blooms for the third time. This mainly happens in plants whose age exceeds 20 years. It would not be superfluous to mention that proper care was taken for such specimens.

Additional Information! Although it is generally accepted that roses live no more than 12 years, however, centenarians approaching the age of 40 are quite common among them.

It is possible to make a rose bloom for the third time, only for this it is necessary to create ideal conditions for it to grow and make a series of manipulations with equalizing pruning and reblooming. This is done in greenhouses where flowers are grown for sale.

Planting bushes of the first year may not bloom. It depends on the planting material and the literacy of the grower. Moreover, the first flowering is not at all a necessity: the shrub should first be allowed to get stronger, then the flowering will be generous, however, next year.

Note! A climbing rose always throws out buds in the second year. In addition, in order to wait for flowering, the plant must be properly prepared for wintering.

Why do roses bloom poorly

If the rose bushes began to bloom poorly or stopped altogether, then something in the care was done wrong. Or maybe the pests tried.

Wrong landing site

Of decisive importance in the cultivation of roses is the place of their landing. Flowers love warmth and lots of light. They can develop normally if they are provided with full sun exposure for at least 8 hours a day. In shady places, the plant will not bloom.

Important! For planting roses, you need the most open area.

The necessary ecological conditions for a flower are the absence of competition, permeable fertile soils, sunlight. The best option for planting a flower is monoflowers or rose gardens.

Incorrect cropping

Incorrect pruning is also the reason why the rose does not bloom. Some rose bushes cannot be severely pruned in the spring, only sanitization is practiced. This group includes climbings, English varieties, scrubs.

rose pruning

A long stalk shrub, shortened by half, will bloom too late, if at all deigns to throw out the buds. The rose will eliminate the lack of green mass at the expense of flowering.

To stimulate the appearance of flowering shoots, wilted flowers must be removed in a timely manner. It is advisable to carry out this procedure daily. At the same time, blind shoots should be identified and shortened by a strong bud. The rose begins to branch, throwing out new shoots on which there will be buds.

Spring pruning helps correct autumn mistakes. All missed unproductive shoots, very thin, damaged should be eliminated immediately. The shrub freed from them will concentrate on the creation and flowering of the main ones.

Wrong care

The culture requires intensive care: disease control, pest control, additional nutrition. An underfed, weakened shrub is more likely to drop leaves than bloom.

However, in feeding the plant, you need to observe the measure, so that later you will not be surprised why the rose does not bloom, but only leaves. So many media have recommendations for weekly feeding of roses. This cannot be done. Overfed plants grow intensively and increase green mass. And if they devote time to flowering, then it is extremely small: 1-2 buds may appear for the entire season.

Top dressing roses for abundant flowering

Feeding roses should be justified and balanced. Signs of lack of fertilizers:

• thin shoots;
• spots appear on the foliage;
• weak flowering.

Only then can you help the roses with food. With the onset of flowering, the culture will need potassium magnesia, potassium monophosphate. Florists with extensive experience often refuse chemical dressings in favor of organics: why process them if there is horse manure. Its effects on roses are simply magical - the flowers are bright, strong, flowering is long, and the rose itself does not get sick.

Aging, growth

Full flowering will not occur if the bush strangles the root growth. Rosehip, on which a rose is grafted, will give birth to a lot of shoots. It is easy for an inexperienced summer resident to make a mistake and take it for the stems of a grafted culture. Continuing to curl inside the bush, wild shoots drown it out, take away food, space, air, light. The dominance of the wild rose indicates a mistake made during planting: incorrect depth.

Important! The appearance of root shoots must be stopped immediately.

Very old rose bushes also stop intensive flowering - for the whole season only one bud may appear on the bush. Such plants rejuvenate.

It is difficult for old pink wood to feed foliage and, especially, flowers. Spring sanitary pruning helps to avoid this problem. Cutting out the woody stems, the owner helps the rose in the formation of new, young ones.

Important! The old branch is cut at ground level.

Ambulance

It happens that all the conditions for caring for a rose are met: young, has optimal nutrition, there is no root growth, the landing site is good, but still it does not bloom. The young florist is perplexed and lowers his hands.

Actions to be taken:

• Remove all, without exception, unnecessary shoots - thin, blind, small.
• Following is a stimulating circumcision on a strong bud, leaf.
• Offer the culture humate and potassium with trace elements.

Pests and diseases do not allow the plant to bloom. For each variety, the reason for this case is individual:

Having been engaged in flowers for a long time, each gardener accumulates his personal experience, writes down useful observations and methods applicable to certain flowers. However, there are universal tips and observations that can be applied to many species:

• Feeding indoor roses while dormant will cause the stems to stretch too much.
• Picky home roses can be protected from pests by putting a few match heads when transplanting into a pot.
• When a rose is stunted, it is difficult to wait for flowering from it. Onion infusion will help correct this situation. It is a unique natural stimulant and antibiotic.
• Faded colors of foliage and flowers on rose bushes can be revived with a banana decoction. The crushed peel is poured with boiling water and kept for 2 days before feeding.

If rose bushes are given due attention, no pests and external causes will prevent them from delighting everyone with their flowering.

Sometimes even experienced flower growers find it difficult to say why a rose does not bloom. Knowing the basic rules for caring for a beautiful flower will allow you to enjoy its magnificence of colors and delicious aroma.

When breeding roses, you need to be prepared for the fact that theoretical recommendations from specialists and the real situation in practice may have some discrepancies between them. Therefore, it is very difficult for even experienced flower growers to determine why a rose does not bloom. The reason for the lack of buds on the bush can be both insufficient air humidity, impurities in the soil, the composition of local water, and insufficient knowledge of the basics of caring for this beautiful flower. Let's analyze the main mistakes of flower growers. Read about

The rose does not bloom: the wildness of the bush

In most cases, growing roses in our area are grafted, not own-rooted. Therefore, you may not notice the appearance of wild shoots from the rootstock of a bush on which a cultivated rose is grafted. Such wild shoots weaken the bush, and it gradually loses its varietal properties. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to remove this insidious growth, which is located at the very bottom, in a timely manner. It is easy to identify by very small leaves and a large number of thorns. As soon as you see such a whip, tear the earth and boldly cut it off at the very base.

Soil quality

Often a rose does not bloom due to unsuitable soil structure or improper processing. To prevent this from happening, you should not plant it in dense, heavy soil. To obtain a lighter composition, sand can be added under the bush and carefully loosened to a depth of 5-7 cm.

Fertilization

The reason why a rose does not bloom on the site may be a lack or excess of fertilizers applied to the soil. The main sign of an excess of nitrogen fertilizing is the active growth upwards of lush foliage without the formation of buds. You can correct the situation by applying phosphorus-potassium fertilizer or ash.

The menu of roses should include top dressing of low concentration from infusion of liquid organic matter or mineral fertilizers. Nutrient mixtures are applied alternately, alternating them every two weeks.

Pruning a rose bush

The purpose of pruning a bush is to rejuvenate it, which allows you to increase the abundance of flowering. The event is held every spring, thereby ridding the plant of weak, diseased and unproductive shoots, and the rest to receive impulses for further development.

First of all, when pruning, all weak, diseased branches damaged by frost and disease are removed. Next, cut off the shoots that are directed inside the bush.

This will ensure ventilation of the inside of the rose and eliminate the possible accumulation of pests and fungal diseases.

Next, all unproductive shoots are removed, which include branches older than 3 years. They are easily identified by their strongly lignified trunk and dark color. It is on such branches that in most cases buds do not appear, since their vessels have lost their elasticity and are completely clogged with salts. The remaining shoots are shortened in accordance with the rose variety. Pruning can be done up to 3-4 buds (short), 5-7 buds (moderate) and up to 8 buds (weak).

Wintering rose bush

Also, the rose does not bloom as a result of improper wintering. To avoid freezing and exposure to moisture before the onset of cold weather, the rose bush should be covered with rotted peat, covered with protective material or fallen leaves. Also, experienced gardeners make special polystyrene foam cones and cover plants with them.

In addition to the above reasons, when choosing a variety, pay attention to its features. Since the reason why the rose does not bloom may be that the conditions of your site do not match for its full development.

Video: blind shoots of roses

Rose is a real aristocrat among horticultural crops. The plant belongs to the rosehip family and has over 300 varieties. The color palette of inflorescences practically knows no restrictions: traditionally pink, white, burgundy, blue and even lilac flowers are bred by breeding. The length of the flowering plant can vary between 10-80 centimeters, depending on the variety. The number of petals of one flower sometimes reaches hundreds. Curiously, the pampered and refined flower is considered a rather unpretentious plant that can take root in arid climates and marshy ground. Gardeners are interested in why the rose does not bloom in the garden, although all planting rules are observed - the reasons usually lie in the improper care of the plant.

The purchase of planting material in spontaneous markets, from hands, in non-specialized stores is usually the direct reason that the bush will not smell fragrant with buds. Sellers often offer buyers weak or diseased seedlings that are not able to take root. To grow such a bush, you will have to make a lot of effort, and the result of labor will not always be positive. High-quality and strong planting material should be selected according to the following criteria:

• the age of the plant does not exceed 2-3 years;
• seedlings must have a developed root system, without rotten and dry branches;
• ideally, 2-3 shoots should be present on the bush;

Soil and fertilizer

The plant is considered unpretentious, but growing a fragrant rose bush in infertile soil is very problematic. In order for the plant to take root and give flowers, the soil must be light, freely breathable and absorb moisture. This effect can be achieved by adding sand to the landing site and loosening the soil to a depth of 7 centimeters. You can improve the quality of the soil with compost or peat, which are laid to the depth of the shovel bayonet.

The second reason for the lack of color on rose bushes is an excess of fertilizer. Gardeners show excessive zeal in caring for the plant, introducing a large amount of top dressing and fertilizer into the soil. Signs of such efforts are green bushes without a single bud. To remedy the situation, it is necessary to abandon nitrogen-based fertilizers, opting for wood ash or potassium-phosphorus compounds. During the growing season, roses are recommended to be fed with weakly concentrated mineral or organic fertilizers.

pruning

All garden plants need periodic pruning. Shrubs, which include the rose, are no exception. Pruning is the removal of old or diseased shoots, aimed at rejuvenating the plant and creating new fruit ovaries and buds. You need to cut the rose in the spring, removing perennial (older than 3 years) and shoots directed inside the bush. In addition, branches damaged by frost or harmful insects are cut off.

The number of removed and left shoots directly depends on the individual characteristics of the plant. Dark branches with coarsened and damaged bark are completely removed; when pruning healthy branches, it is recommended to adhere to the following scheme:

• strong - 1-3 buds from the base;
• medium - no more than 7 kidneys;
• weak - up to 10 kidneys.

The cuts are made neatly, obliquely, using sharply sharpened garden shears. This helps to prevent crushing of healthy shoots. Only the outer buds are left to prevent new branches from growing inside the bush and to give the plant a cup-like shape.

Bad wintering

Roses must be covered in winter, carrying out preliminary hilling with the introduction of rotted peat or fallen leaves into the soil. Such precautions protect the plant from the cold, prevent young shoots from breaking off under the weight of snow, and maintain an optimal level of humidity in spring. Improper wintering is one of the key reasons for the lack of buds in a garden rose.

When preparing a shrub for winter, inexperienced gardeners make a common mistake by fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers from the second half of summer. This stimulates the active growth of young shoots that are unable to endure the winter cold, therefore they die, spreading decay and disease to healthy branches.

wild rootstock

This method of grafting is typical for most varieties of roses grown in Russia. The technique is designed to increase the frost resistance and viability of plants. In cases where wild growth begins to dominate, the shrub degenerates and ceases to bloom. It is not difficult to determine such shoots in appearance: a large number of thorns, small leaves. Remove the wild stock completely, cutting off the branch at the root. The place of removal is sprinkled with crushed coal to exclude the possibility of infection.

Blind shoots also have a negative effect on the flowering of roses. These are branches, the tops of which are completely devoid of foliage and buds. You should not regret such taps: complete removal will give strength for the development and strengthening of other shoots.

Wrong watering

The rose tolerates drought well, but the plant needs to be watered at least once a week. These are prerequisites for the full development of the shrub. It is recommended to water the plant according to the rules:

• cold water is completely excluded - low temperatures provoke fungal diseases;
• an abundance of moisture - near the root system, the soil is loosened, bumpers are created that prevent the spread of water;
• compliance with the norms - at the usual time, a bucket of water goes to one bush, with a long drought, the dosage is doubled.

Important! After moisture has been absorbed into the soil, mulching is carried out and the soil is sprinkled with wood ash. This creates a natural protection against weeds, prevents the development of fungus, and helps to retain moisture.

Are your roses blooming poorly or refusing to do so at all? So something went wrong. After all, in any normal and healthy rose, each shoot ends with a bud or inflorescence. What's the matter? The reasons why the rose does not give flowers can be a whole "bouquet". Let's consider them.

Each shoot of a rose must end with either one bud or a whole inflorescence. Author's photo

1. First year doesn't count

To begin with, the rose of the first year of planting may not bloom - it all depends on the condition of the seedling, in what condition it waited for planting (whether it was in the refrigerator or arrived in a container already with buds), the gardener's competent actions during planting and care. Moreover, even if a young rose finds a desire to bloom, it is not advised to give it to her - let her take root better in a new place. You can only satisfy curiosity and wait until one flower opens, which is then better to pick.

Another note for beginner rose growers. Climbing roses-ramblers (Rambler roses) bloom only in the second year, and then only on condition of a successful wintering. Therefore, if you have planted a climbing rose from the group of ramblers in the garden, do not try to wait for it to bloom this summer. It will be necessary to carefully, according to all the rules, cover the growing shoots for the winter, which will bloom next year.

2. Wrong landing site

Of decisive importance in the cultivation of roses in the cold Russian climate is the place of planting. You should know that roses, these natives of the southern regions, are very sensitive to the lack of sunlight. They need at least 8 hours of full sun for full development and flowering. The degree of illumination determines the strength of growth, the number of flowers, the health of the rose bush. Therefore, it should be planted in the most open area. This is an indispensable condition! If you planted a rose in the shade of trees, fences or buildings, you can not wait for flowering, it will not happen.

Roses, due to their southern origin, are very thermophilic plants, so the planting site must be protected from drafts, especially from constantly blowing winds. When planting, gentle beauties should be provided with all the necessary environmental conditions - sunlight, fertile and permeable soils, lack of competition, which is why the rose has long been planted exclusively in rose gardens or in monoflowers. With this method of placement, by the way, they are much easier to care for. You should not place roses next to shrubs such as lilacs, mock oranges or spireas, which will be powerful competitors in the fight for water and nutrients, in this case the rose will be depressed and will also not bloom.

3. Incorrect cropping

The next possible reason for the lack of flowering is improper pruning. In the spring, some groups of roses (shrubs, English roses, climbings) should never be severely pruned. For them, only a sanitary and light shaping haircut is used, when the tops are shortened by a strong kidney. This is done to encourage branching. You should not try to form a small spray rose from a high scrub. By cutting its stems in half (as is sometimes advised), you will significantly delay the flowering time, since the plant will recover for a long time after this procedure, growing new shoots. But, interestingly, the nature of her growth will remain the same, that is, all the sacrifices will be in vain. In summer, in order to force the rose to release new flowering shoots, wilted flowers must be removed in a timely manner. If you live in the country, it is advisable to do this every day, leaving with a pruner in the garden. Neglecting this rule, you will not wait for re-blooming.

In addition, all the so-called "blind" shoots that have not released buds must be shortened (certainly by a strong bud) by about half, thereby encouraging the rose to branch. This technique allows you to achieve flowering. But this is all provided that the plant is healthy and receives enough sunlight and nutrition. Another nuance: if in the spring you didn’t remove thin and unproductive shoots growing inside the bush or close to the ground for some reason (didn’t know, didn’t notice, or were simply too lazy) that never bloom, remove them in summer. An important rule of English flower growers applies here: shoots thinner than an ordinary pencil should not remain on a rose bush. The rose, freed from them, will concentrate its forces on the flowering of the main ones.

You can learn about all the intricacies of pruning roses of different types in the Pruning Academy of our website. Take a look at Lesson 7. Pruning roses.

4. Improper care

The next possible reason why roses refuse to bloom is the wrong, in scientific terms, agrobackground. The rose is an intensive care plant. It requires additional nutrition, timely spraying against numerous pests, and disease control. A weakened, underfed, oppressed bush with leaves fallen from ailments is unlikely to gain strength to please you with flowering.

Rose - intensive care plant

However, one cannot overdo it here: often gardeners, trying to achieve the maximum result in cultivating roses in their garden, are too fond of fertilizing. Some printed publications contribute a lot to this, in which it is advised to give roses either root or foliar top dressing almost weekly. As a result, roses are overfed, strength goes into foliage, and flowering is scarce. It has been noticed that such plants winter much worse, since their shoots do not have time to properly woody. Therefore, top dressing should be balanced in terms of the composition of the elements and justified. Watch your pets - if any signs of starvation suddenly appear, spots on the leaves, thin shoots, weak flowering - and only in this case come to the rescue. You can choose a suitable top dressing in our market. Take a look at our selection of Rose Fertilizers, where you will find both long-acting granular fertilizers and liquid fertilizers. ^collection Do not get carried away with nitrogen fertilizers, potash fertilizers are more suitable for roses - potassium monophosphate, potassium magnesia. And the best thing, as experience shows, is to mulch rose plantings with horse manure in the spring. It acts on these plants in some miraculous way: roses grow strong, with healthy foliage, flowers become brighter, stay on the bush longer and practically do not get sick!

5. Root growth

The rose, literally “strangled” by root shoots, will not fully bloom either. The rosehip shoot itself, on which cultivars are usually grafted, does not bloom. Inexperienced gardeners sometimes mistake it for the shoots of their rose. And the growth must be removed immediately, as it takes away the batteries from the rose and suppresses it. The dominance of root shoots indicates that a mistake was made during planting - the seedling was not buried to the proper depth (3-5 cm).

Root growth must be removed in a timely manner. Author's photo

6. Bacterial burn

You need to know that shoots affected by a bacterial burn, which happens after wintering roses under cover, will never bloom. Such an escape should not be left, it must be decisively and without delay cut out immediately after the shelter has been removed, as it can infect the rest of the stems of the bush. Sometimes it can be overlooked, not noticed right away, but over time it will not develop and will gradually dry up completely, without giving flowers.

Bacterial burn. Photo from our-flowers.rf website 7. Aging

Old roses also bloom poorly. If you have been growing them for more than 3 years, it's time to rejuvenate them. What is it for? The fact is that the old wood of the rose does not conduct nutrients well, the plant gradually begins to bloom poorly and eventually dies for unknown reasons. Therefore, every year in the spring they cut out three-year-old shoots that have become very woody, in return for which the bush will release new, young, green ones, and they will already pick up the flowering baton.

The old shoot must be cut at ground level. Author's photo

Ambulance

So what do you do if the rose has not bloomed? If your beauty, who suddenly refuses to bloom, is younger than 3 years old, “sits” in a good place, looks healthy, her stems are not affected by a bacterial burn, she is not oppressed by root growth, then first of all it is proposed to carry out the following activities:

remove all unnecessary shoots - thin, blind, small, growing inside and below the bush, and the “sorry” argument in this case should not be taken into account;

after that, carry out stimulating pruning on a strong leaf or bud (the rose itself will show this, usually a new shoot is formed in this place). Everything above must be decisively removed;

Give it a try, these measures should help turn the tide. And wait for the flowers! If it does not happen, then return to the beginning of the article, analyze the situation with your specific roses and take action. We'll fix everything!