Which roses are better - those with their own roots or those grafted onto rose hips? On sale you can find different options seedlings, and each has its own advantages and disadvantages.
There are a lot of varieties of roses in the world, they all have their own properties and cultivation characteristics. When purchasing a seedling, it is useful to know how it was obtained. Sometimes the planting method, the growth rate of the bush, and the ability to survive the winter depend on this. Rose seedlings come in two types:
- rooted from cuttings and growing on their own own roots;
- grafted onto rose hips.
Since the rose was originally imported from countries with a warm climate, where there are no negative temperatures in winter and, accordingly, winter dormancy, it became necessary to graft onto winter-hardy rose hips. It is the grafted roots of winter-hardy rose hips that give the rose increased nutrition, powerful growth, disease resistance and, most importantly, increased winter hardiness.
A grafted rose is a symbiosis of two separate organisms - a delicate rose (scion) and a more powerful rose hip (rootstock).
Most of our famous modern varieties roses tolerate frosty winters quite well. Especially under cover made of lutrasil or other similar materials. They can be propagated in a simple way- root cuttings. These roses do not require rosehip rootstock to overwinter, but growers still graft them. This is done to quickly obtain planting material.
Some varieties of roses grow very quickly, while others develop slowly; for the first few years they grow roots, but do not produce powerful shoots and do not bloom. To get a good one in a year or two flowering bush for sale, a thin rose branch is grafted onto a rose hip with strong roots.
What are the advantages of grafted roses? It is believed that a grafted rose is more frost-resistant. Indeed, in the first years, a self-rooted rose is inferior in frost resistance, especially if it is a heat-loving variety. But a 3-4 year old plant is already quite winter-hardy. Moreover, if the shoots freeze in winter, then there is a high probability that shoots from dormant buds will grow from the root. Well, from a grafted rose, when the shoots die, only a rootstock can grow - a rosehip.
At Not correct landing(as well as improper grafting) rose hips produce many shoots. By deepening the grafting site to a certain depth (usually 3-5 cm), a condition is created in which the rose hips do not reject the rose and, without upper growth points, cannot independently create their own crown. When planting a bush, when the grafting site is above ground level, the rose hips stop “feeding” the rose and form its own crown (root shoots). Over time, the powerful rose hips grow, but the rose does not receive enough nutrition and dies. At the everyday level, they mistakenly say that a rose has been “reborn” into a rose hip.
Such growth can appear even with proper planting. If shoots appear that differ in color and leaf shape from the old ones, then they need to be cut out.
When planting a bush, when the grafting site is too deep, the rose forms its own roots. Over time, the rose hips may die and the rose grows on its own roots. In some cases it becomes weaker and more vulnerable, in others it grows beautifully on its own roots.
The depth of the grafting site during planting (from 3 to 5 cm) was determined by many years of experience and depends on the density of the soil and the group of roses. Tall groups of roses (climbing, park and English) are planted deeper, low-growing groups (patio, border and spray roses) with a small root collar and small root system are planted higher.
There is no general consensus on which growing method to choose. For several decades now, rose growers have been arguing about the advantages of budding (grafted) roses compared to their own roots. For many years, budding roses have been perceived as scientific achievement. But self-rooted roses also have many advantages: they are no less winter-hardy, resistant to disease, and bloom profusely. In addition, they do not form shoots from the rootstock.
Which roses to choose
Experienced specialists have their own preferences, but the general opinion can be formulated as follows - there are varieties that give the best results on their own roots, and there are also those that are still better to graft.
For ordinary garden lovers, the choice is determined by what is available on the market. planting material: Some varieties of roses are sold only grafted, others - rooted. For experienced florist If you use the services of a serious nursery with a good reputation, it does not matter whether you buy a budding or your own rooted rose. It all depends on personal preference. For example, a fastidious florist will purchase a Canadian rose of the Explorer series - rooted, and a hybrid tea - on a rootstock. If you need a specific variety, you will have to take the rose in the form in which it is offered. Typically, antique roses are grown in nurseries on their own roots, and most hybrid tea and floribunda roses are budded.
Rose growers living in the region have a special opinion northern regions. They prefer grafted roses. There are not many varieties that can withstand harsh winters. During the short northern summer, heat-loving roses do not have time to grow powerful mature shoots that can winter well. A good rootstock in this case will give the desired result.
In warmer climates, many rose lovers buy budding roses from nurseries, then take cuttings of the variety they like and root them. Most popular varieties grow equally well on rootstock and on their own roots.
A significant advantage of own-rooted roses is that when transplanting, the overgrown bush can be divided.
Can a grafted rose grow on its own roots?
When planted deeper, roses develop their own roots above the graft point. They provide additional nutrition, but are usually quite weak at first. Rose roots tend to grow on any part of the stem that comes into contact with the soil, and over time, grafted roses may well become self-rooted.
Some gardeners hill up roses or cover them with humus for the winter. In winter, this protects against freezing. If the winter is warm, then in the spring roots appear on shoots sprinkled with soil.
In some cases, the original root of roses rots or dries out, then the plant's own roots help the plant survive. The growth and development of such a bush slows down for a year or two, but after strengthening its own root system, the rose will delight you with powerful shoots and abundant flowering.
There are varieties and varieties of roses (floribunda, hybrid tea) for which deep planting is not recommended. Sometimes this leads to rotting of the grafting site (especially if the soil is too wet or there is melt water for a long time in the spring), and in other cases growth simply slows down, the bush does not produce new shoots of strong shoots from the base. If you like the variety, then you just need to try to root the cuttings to get new rooted roses.
Purchased roses often become wild over time.
The reason for this phenomenon is their grafting onto rose hips, the offspring of which begin to take away nutrients, which is why the grafted variety gradually dies.
This can be avoided by growing own root roses, we’ll talk about this today in the next article in the “” section
The procedure is simple; both climbing and park roses take root equally well for me.
The main thing is to cut
In June, before the plants bloom, I cut annual shoots.
I cut each of them into several cuttings 15-20 cm long, remove the peduncles and 2 lower leaves.
After this, I keep the cuttings in a honey solution for 1 hour (1 teaspoon of honey per 1 liter of water), and then immediately plant them at an angle of 45 degrees, on a prepared bed with light, fertile soil.
I plant in such a way that the grown plants do not interfere with each other in the future. After planting, I water the cuttings well and cover them with plastic wrap.
Watering
For about a month, until the cuttings take root, I water them at least 2 times a week. Then I gradually open the film for ventilation: at first for no more than an hour in cloudy weather, gradually increasing the time and after a few days I remove the film completely.
Feeding roses
Every 2 weeks, I feed the rooted plants with an infusion of slurry (1:10) with the addition of 1 liter of ash (per 10 liters of solution). Be sure to loosen the soil between the rows and pull out the weeds. In the fall, with the onset of steady cold weather, I cover the bed with spruce branches, and in winter I sprinkle it with additional snow.
Transplanting roses to permanent place
In the spring, when the soil thaws and warms up a little, I transplant the roses to a permanent place.
I dig a hole measuring 50x50 cm, lay drainage at the bottom (a little crushed stone or broken red brick), add 2-3 buckets of humus, 1 liter of ash. 300 g superphosphate and a little dolomite flour, mix everything thoroughly and form it into a mound. I install the seedling so that its apical root is 7-10 cm below the soil level. Then I fill it with the top fertile layer soil and water it abundantly.
Pest Control
When pests appear, I treat the bushes with a solution of Inga-Vir or Fufanon (according to the instructions) with the addition liquid soap. I try to do this late in the evening, when the flight of bees and other beneficial insects stops.
Advice for rose growers:
For longer flowering of roses, pinch out strong annual shoots. Thanks to this, lateral growths with peduncles will appear on them.
Many gardeners love to breed their own roses. They are grown by those who want to have on their plot a large assortment of the most different varieties. You can borrow the views you like from neighbors and friends. If you try, it’s not difficult to grow incredibly beautiful specimens on your own plot. Self-rooted roses differ from those grafted on rose hips. The latter are most often sold at markets, fairs and in stores. It is advisable to have both types on the site, since each of them has its own pros and cons.
Choosing a landing site
If you decide to grow your own root roses, then it is better to choose a planting location on the south or southwest side of the site. Roses are very picky about the composition of the soil and the presence of nutrients.
Self-rooted roses grow well, bloom profusely, with good shelter easily tolerate wintering. The soil for planting should be rich in humus, well drained, with a level groundwater at least 1 meter to the soil surface. Clayey, heavy soil does not warm up well and is not suitable for growing self-rooted roses.
If there is no natural slope, it is better to plant roses in raised beds. In such conditions, good soil heating and normal water flow are ensured.
Planting your own root rose
Once the location and soil have been chosen correctly, you can begin planting. Seedlings need to be lowered into pre-prepared holes. Self-rooted roses are carefully knocked out of the pot with a lump of earth and planted in such a way that the bush sits 3-4 cm lower in the ground than it was in the pot. Such immersion in the soil will allow it to take root better and enable the active development of additional adventitious roots.
When planting roses in rows, the following distances between bushes should be observed:
- polyanthus - 25x50 cm;
- climbing and other vigorous roses - 100x200 cm;
- hybrid tea - 35x50 cm.
After the bushes are planted, the beds must be watered abundantly and mulched with peat or humus.
Own root roses: care
In order for the growing season to proceed normally, the flowering to be lush and colorful, roses require a lot of water. Self-rooted roses are especially picky in this matter. This is explained by the fact that many of them have a horizontally located superficial root system. If the top layer of soil along with the roots overheats too much, the plants become so depressed that they slow down in growth and stop flowering altogether.
It is necessary to water and loosen the soil, break the crust that remains after the rains. Throughout summer period Roses require fertilizing once every two weeks. An excellent remedy is fresh mullein with additives from mineral fertilizers.
Summer period
The flowering of self-rooted roses occurs in August and September, especially if it’s warm weather with moderate precipitation. By this period, bushes on well-cultivated, loose soils take root well. The root system expands in all directions, the crown actively develops, subsequently giving abundant flowering.
It is worth noting that when caring for self-rooted roses, it is better to remove the first buds in June, then the plant will devote all its energy to rooting. During the second wave of flowering, around August, the flowers will be stronger and more beautiful.
Self-rooted roses require special care in the first years of life. They reach full strength by the age of five, but they delight the eye much longer than grafted varieties.
Pre-winter agricultural technology
With the arrival of the first frosts, rooted roses are often still in full bloom with a large number unopened buds and young shoots. Overall the rose is heat-loving plant, which does not have its own natural mechanisms of preparation for winter period.
That is why, in the second half of summer, agricultural technology should be aimed at ensuring that the shoots begin to ripen and their main growth ceases. To do this, you need to stop cutting flowers in July, and in August, cancel all nitrogen fertilizing. Additional plant nutrition should be done using potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.
Preparing for winter
Preparing self-rooted roses for the winter period occurs in October-November. It is necessary to trim all growing tops and grassy shoots. Then, at the base of the bush, you need to cut out the young shoots, after which the plant should be hilled. Every rose bush covered with earth, which is taken between the rows; The height of the soil layer should be approximately 15 cm.
After frosts harden to -10 o C, the plants additionally need to be insulated with spruce branches, as well as a 20-centimeter layer of leaves. During the first winter, self-rooted roses are the most tender and susceptible, so they need to be wrapped especially carefully.
Mature bushes tolerate wintering more easily; One hilling is enough for them. The most winter-hardy species are polyanthus, park, and climbing.
The result of wintering largely depends not so much on low temperatures as on soil moisture in autumn and spring. There are cases when a well-wintered bush rots from excess moisture. This happens due to late removal of the cover from the plant or poor water drainage at the growth site.
Awakening the Rose
Growing your own root roses is a painstaking process. After wintering, it is recommended to remove the insulation from the bush gradually. The layer of leaves is removed as the snow melts. As soon as the soil thaws, the roses need to be unplanted, leaving the spruce branches. The latter will shade the plant until buds appear.
On cold, heavy soils, self-rooted roses begin the growing season a little later than grafted ones. On warm and light soils, both species awaken at the same time.
The most suitable varieties for growing self-rooted roses are climbing, park, hybrid-polyantha, polyantha, and some types of hybrid tea and remontant varieties.
Self-rooted roses develop especially well, which have the peculiarities of their biology - high ability to rooting, active development of the root system.
The advantage of roses is that after overwintering, the plant often survives due to the fact that new life develops from adventitious buds located in the underground part of the bush.
The difference between a self-rooted rose and a grafted one
Own-rooted, grafted roses - all of them, undoubtedly, are a decoration for any garden plot. What is the difference between these types of plants?
Floriculture farms rarely grow their own roots, a process that is more labor-intensive and time-consuming, especially for the hybrid tea group.
If you decide to buy your own rooted rose, know that the young bush of the plant will look weaker than its grafted counterpart. But despite this, its survival rate is quite high.
Self-rooted bushes grow more slowly and reach full strength by the age of five. In vaccinated people, growth is more active; the disadvantage is short term life. Some rooted varieties can grow for up to 15 years, pleasing the eye with abundant annual flowering.
Often, growth from rose hips on grafted varieties causes a lot of trouble. There is no such problem in caring for self-rooted species; shoots simply do not appear. Many gardeners try to transfer grafted varieties to their own roots over time.
Self-rooted roses are a crop grown from varietal cuttings, without a rootstock, and therefore are very demanding in terms of growing conditions. Self-rooted roses can grow well, bloom profusely and overwinter only on well-drained, deeply cultivated (at least 50-60 cm), light soils rich in humus.
Groundwater should be below the root system of the plant, and the area should not be flooded in the spring. On heavy clay soils It is almost impossible to achieve the desired result, especially with hybrid tea varieties. But there is still a way out.
Conditions for growing self-rooted roses
If the soil on your site is unsuitable for growing roses, you will have to work a little.
To ensure good drainage of excess water, the area for self-rooted roses must be raised. Clay soils require additional sand and humus, at least in the planting holes.
Remember, you are not planting a rose bush for a year or 2. To ensure normal growth and lush flowering for decades, it is necessary to take care of the soil in advance.
It’s best to prepare landing hole. To do this, we dig it out, the deeper the better. Divide the excavated soil into 2 parts. The upper half is set aside, the lower half is removed from the site.
One and a half buckets of crushed stone or broken bricks are poured into the bottom of the pit. Cover with a bucket of sand. The deferred earth upper layers mix with a bucket of sand and 2 buckets of humus, add half a bucket of ash and 200g of superphosphate. Mix thoroughly and pour into the planting hole.
If the soil is dry, water and wait until the soil settles slightly. Only after that seat It’s ready, and you can plant a bush of your own roses in it.
Roses grown in a greenhouse are hardened off 10 days before planting in open ground.
Container specimens are planted in a hole, slightly deeper, approximately 3-5 cm, to form additional roots.
The distances between bushes for floribunda and polyanthus varieties are 25x50 cm, for hybrid tea varieties - 35x50 cm, vigorous climbing varieties of roses - 100x200 cm.
After planting, the holes are well watered and mulched with humus or spruce branches.
Young self-rooted plants in the first year need frequent watering, mulching and loosening the top layer of soil. If a crust forms under the bush, aeration is disrupted and stops normal nutrition roots, the soil overheats, the rose blooms poorly.
By August-September, on well-prepared soils and with proper care, annual self-rooted roses grow beautifully and go into winter as strong, mature plants.
For better ripening of the shoots in August, watering is reduced, the buds are cut off, without shortening the shoot too much, so as not to stimulate the growth of new ones. They do not apply nitrogenous fertilizers, but only phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
With the onset of persistent cold weather, winter sheltering of rose bushes is carried out.
Self-rooted roses are a very demanding crop regarding the soil, its structure, humidity, temperature, and the presence of nutrients. Self-rooted roses grow well, bloom and overwinter only on well-drained, deeply cultivated (50-60 cm), light, humus-rich soils with a low groundwater level (no higher than 1 m). Heavy, clayey, poorly warmed soils are not suitable for growing own-rooted roses, especially varieties from the Hybrid Tea group.
The area for growing own-rooted roses should have a slight slope to the south or southwest, protected from northern winds. In the absence of a natural slope, self-rooted roses should be planted on raised beds; in this case, good water outflow and soil warming are ensured.
Roses are planted in pre-prepared holes ( potted plants planted with a clod of earth), deepening it by 3-4 cm. With such a somewhat deep planting of the bush, an opportunity is created for additional development adventitious roots.
The distances for row planting of young seedlings are as follows: for Polyantha, Floribunda - 25x50 cm, Hybrid Tea - 35x50 cm, Climbing and other vigorous roses - 100x200 cm. After planting and abundant watering, the holes need to be mulched with humus or peat.
For normal growing season, roses need abundant watering, since many of them have roots located in top layer soil. During prolonged drought, the upper root layer of the soil becomes very overheated, so much so that plants stop growing and flowering. It is necessary to loosen the soil regularly, since after watering and rain a crust forms, which impairs soil aeration.
Annual self-rooted roses on light, deeply cultivated soils grow strongly in August - September. By this time, they take root well, deeply penetrating, highly branched roots are formed with a large number of small suction roots concentrated at the ends of the lateral roots. This ensures strong growth of above-ground shoots and abundant flowering. During the summer, liquid fertilizers are given every 10-15 days. For this, a solution of fresh mullein with the addition of mineral fertilizers is recommended.
Since most common roses in cultivation are heat-loving, evergreens and they lack natural preparation for winter, then agricultural technology in the second half of summer should be aimed at promoting the ripening of shoots and the cessation of growth. To do this, stop cutting flowers, and by mid-July - early August, stop nitrogen fertilizing; Only potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are used. Preparation for winter (October, November) consists of pruning all growing herbaceous shoots and hilling roses to a height of about 15 cm. After established frosts (10-15°), the hilled plants are additionally insulated with spruce branches or a layer of leaves to a height of 20-25 cm. Self-rooted roses the first year of planting need especially careful insulation.
It is recommended to remove the winter cover from roses gradually: after the snow melts, remove insulation material, when the soil is completely thawed, the roses are unplanted, leaving spruce branches on them as shading until the buds begin to grow.
The result of overwintering self-rooted roses in open ground influence not so much low temperatures how much excess moisture is in the soil in autumn and spring. Often well-overwintered plants die in the spring due to soaking and damping off, especially if the area does not have adequate water drainage and the winter shelter is not removed from the roses for a long time.
The relative stability of heat-loving self-rooted roses depends not so much on the stability of the above-ground vegetative mass of the bush, but on the strength of development and stability of the root system. The most hardy in wintering and resistant to other unfavorable conditions open ground variety with a deep, highly branched root system. After severe damage or almost complete death of the above-ground part of the bush during the winter, such plants are very quickly restored in the spring due to the regrowth of 2-3 buds preserved at the base of the bush.
Weak winter hardiness is characteristic of varieties with a shallow, underdeveloped root system; the roots of such plants are damaged or completely die off when waterlogged or sharp fluctuations in soil temperature. Along with this, the depth of occurrence, the branching of the root system, and, consequently, the strength of growth of above-ground shoots also largely depend on the fertility and depth of soil cultivation.
Shallow-cultivated soil (to a depth of 20-25 m) with a heavy clay horizon underlying the cultural layer limits the possibilities for the development of a full-fledged root system and the above-ground part of the bush. Under these conditions, self-rooted roses, especially varieties with a shallow root system, lag behind in development from those grafted onto rose hips (the height of the bush, branching, and abundance of flowering are reduced).
In a plot with deeply cultivated light fertile soil, many varieties not only keep up with the development of the bush and general resistance from grafted plants, but even surpass them. On the lungs fertile soils The property of increased tillering, characteristic of self-rooted roses, is especially pronounced - the formation of a mass of shoots from the base of the bush. With increasing age, self-rooted roses become more powerful, as the number of tillering shoots continuously increases. In three- to four-year-old self-rooted roses, lignified, thickened areas form at the base of the bush; over the years they grow and serve as an additional reserve for education large quantity rudiments of new tillering shoots. When digging up such overgrown old plants, they can be propagated by dividing the bush.
The power of a self-rooted rose bush also increases due to the rooting of the individual stems that make up its composition. Individual stems or groups of stems with new adventitious roots formed at their base can be easily separated as independent young seedlings - to “rejuvenate” the bush.
Own root roses in lately began to be used more and more widely for landscaping cities and towns in our country. In this case, the main place should be given to the most promising soil culture roses from the groups: Climbing, Semi-climbing, Floribunda and Polyantha.
All varieties of climbing roses - small-flowered and large-flowered - and semi-climbing roses are distinguished by high (almost absolute) winter hardiness and unpretentiousness. Climbing and Semi-climbing roses are already in early age a powerful root system develops: for example, in three-year-old plants of the Paul's Scarlet Climber variety, the root length reaches 150 cm. In terms of the strength of growth of the above-ground part of the bush and the abundance of flowering, self-rooted plants are not inferior to grafted roses of the same varieties, and often surpass them. of plants, already in the second or third year of the growing season, the scion transfers to its own roots, and the rootstock dies off over the years. All this indicates that it is advisable to grow Climbing and Semi-climbing roses on their own roots, and not graft them onto rose hips.
Most varieties of the Floribunda and Polyantha groups also grow well and overwinter on their roots, although they are somewhat inferior in resistance to Climbing and Semi-Climbing.
In the Floribunda group, varieties are of particular interest the latest selection, for example Alain, Centenaire de Lourdes, Iceberg, Jiminy Cricket and others, distinguished by their original bright colors and more perfect flower shape than the old Hybrid Polyantha roses. Self-rooted plants of these varieties are unpretentious, resistant to fungal diseases, and overwinter almost without falling.
Own-rooted polyanthus roses are mostly unpretentious in cultivation, and some varieties are distinguished by the highest winter hardiness among heat-loving roses. With poor insulation (hilling up 15-20 cm with earth and covering with a layer oak leaves) 90-100% of varieties such as Denise Cassegrain, Eulalia Berridge, Yvonne Rabier, Rote Teschendorff, Orange Triumph and others overwinter annually.
In the miniature group, many varieties are quite winter-hardy and can be used for ground plantings (Bito, Sunshine, Perla de Alcanada, Little Buckaroo, etc.). Less winter-hardy varieties Grenadine, Marilyn, Yellow Doll and many others can be successfully used for potted greenhouses and indoor culture.
Self-rooted plants of most varieties of the Hybrid Tea rose group grow and bloom poorly (especially in the first year of the growing season); Some plants die after planting in the ground, others die during the winter.
The massive loss of young self-rooted seedlings occurs because the root system of hybrid tea roses lags behind other groups of roses in development and remains superficial, fibrous for 1-2 years, with a large number of primary, brittle, quickly dying roots. A “real” root system with large, stable skeletal roots is formed, as a rule, by the end of the second year of vegetation.
Only a few varieties with a rapidly developing, deeply penetrating, highly branched root system can be successfully grown in open ground. These include: Curly Pink, M-me Rene Collette, Morning of Moscow and some others. The best varieties Hybrid tea roses and closely related roses of the Grandiflora group can be successfully grown on their own roots in the southern regions of our country and in greenhouses for cutting.
Roses of the Remontant group grow well, bloom and overwinter on their roots. However decorative qualities the bulk of varieties of this group are lower, therefore for root propagation and cultivation, only a limited number of varieties can be recommended: Frau Karl Druschki, Mrs. John Laing, Georg Arends, Eugene Fiirst.
Cold-resistant annual seedlings with their own roots park roses from the groups: Spinosissima, Alba, Lutea, Centifolia, Mossaceae, French and others are characterized by weak resistance during the first year of culture. The massive loss of plants after planting in the ground is explained by the fact that cuttings of park roses take root more slowly and form a stable root system. By the time they are planted in the ground in a permanent place, annual seedlings of park roses have almost no above-ground growth; single weak roots die off when there is excess moisture in the soil, drying out, mild frost, etc. Taking into account these features of park roses, it is recommended to grow rooted cuttings of park roses for two years at the most favorable conditions.
The exception is the varieties and varieties of rugosa rose. In representatives of this group of roses, annual rooted cuttings have a well-developed stable root system and fairly strong above-ground growths. Many varieties of this group grow well on their roots.
Old rooted plants can be propagated using numerous root suckers and dividing the bush.
