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Initially, flower growers bred roses only on their own roots. Then someone enterprising guessed to make a T-shaped incision on the shoot of a wild rose and insert the eye of another rose into it. There were times when the cutting of a favorite rose was rooted under a pickle jar. In nurseries, plots were planted with hundreds of cuttings and waited for their rooting. The introduction of budding has made fundamental changes in the production of roses, and the process of their breeding has accelerated significantly. The latest methods allowed even weak roses to survive on their own roots and, thanks to the strong roots of the rootstock, reach a marketable appearance.
For several decades, rose growers have been arguing about the advantages of budded (grafted) roses compared to own-rooted ones. For many years, budded roses were perceived as a scientific achievement. But own-rooted roses also have many advantages: winter hardiness, disease resistance, abundant flowering. In addition, they do not form rootstock shoots.
The disadvantage of budded roses is that in the northern regions their cultivation requires a lot of effort, otherwise they will freeze in winter.
The preference for grafted or own-rooted roses is not only the result of personal preferences. Sometimes it all depends on the planting material on the market: some varieties of roses are sold only grafted, others are sold as own-rooted, and the situation is constantly changing. Due to various transformations in the economic system of rose production, the world's main suppliers of modern varieties, as well as producers of vintage and collection roses, began to offer mainly own-rooted roses. The fact is that budding roses requires certain knowledge, skills and experience. And in order to simply plant shoots in the ground, qualifications are not needed, and such work can be mechanized in some part.
Endurance and health
Advertising claims that the two main benefits of own-rooted roses are increased winter hardiness and resistance to mosaic virus. However, since the virus spreads during breeding, using a cutting from a diseased plant will result in a self-rooted rose affected by the virus. On the other hand, if a healthy plant is grafted onto a virus-free rootstock, the budded rose will be virus-free. Knowledgeable and responsible rose growers always work only with virus-free roses, so it doesn't matter which breeding method they use.
When the production of bud roses moved from specialized nurseries to wholesalers, these plants began to be sold in the northern regions. Manufacturers recommended planting the rose so that the grafting site was 2.5 cm above the ground. However, there is experience that a budded rose planted with a graft 2.5 cm below ground level will be as winter-hardy as its own root.
It has already been proven that the endurance of a rose is determined by its genes. This means that if it is grown on its own roots, then it will not become more enduring from this. George S. Thomas, an American rose grower of the early 20th century, conducted joint experiments with grafted and own-rooted roses. He eventually concluded that native-rooted roses, with the exception of ramblers and species roses, required a climate "without extremes of any kind" to succeed. This was written by a man who lived solely on and for roses (maybe that's why his widow hired a bulldozer and destroyed all the roses shortly after her husband's death), so his conclusions are credible.
Both budded and own-rooted roses can suffer from problems arising during the production process for various reasons. For example, budded roses grow very long from the grafted eye to the roots, which, as a rule, creates difficulties when planting in northern regions. At the same time, many customers of the company were sent own-rooted roses with an undeveloped root system in small pots. Such rooted cuttings flower growers are called "zamorys". Of course, with very careful care and great diligence, they will turn out to be full-fledged plants, but you will have to work tirelessly.
Sometimes nurseries grow part of the roses on their own roots, offering them to customers as seedlings with a lush, attractive shape. It must be remembered that native-rooted roses rarely have a magnificent form, and this is possible only if a bushy variety was used for this breeding method.
When buying a varietal rose, flower growers, of course, expect to get the same plant that nurseries once chose for introduction. However, some varieties, such as Peace and Amber Queen, can be seriously affected by grafting with weak eyes. This happens either because of negligence or because of haste - if the nursery needed to get a lot of seedlings in a short time. Such a decrease in the growth energy of budded roses is excluded when breeding own-rooted ones: a stalk with weak eyes simply will not give a marketable seedling and, therefore, will not go on sale.
So which is better?
For an experienced grower who uses the services of a serious nursery with a good reputation, it does not matter whether to buy a budded or own-rooted rose. It all depends on personal preference. For example, a fastidious florist will purchase a Canadian Explorer series rose - own-rooted, and a hybrid tea - on a rootstock. If you need a particular variety, you will have to take the rose in the form in which it is offered. Typically, vintage roses are grown in nurseries on their own roots, and most hybrid tea and floribunda roses are budded.
After planting, gardeners rarely think about the roots of roses, and in vain. If you carefully consider them, you will once again be affirmed in the opinion that both grafted and own-rooted roses have advantages. You often find that the best plants were originally grafted, and in time grew on their own roots. The fact is that the roots have the ability to grow at the base of the trunk or on any part of the rose that is underground or touches it.
Taking into account all of the above and analyzed, we can draw the following conclusion: nothing accelerates the growth of a rose like a powerful rootstock, but its own roots eliminate many problems when growing.
Roses are called the queens of flowers and they rightfully occupy one of the leading places among all types and varieties of flowering plants. Many legends, tales and signs are associated with roses. They often become the heroines of fairy tales and poems. These are plants from the rosehip family and they appeared as a result of human labors. Most of the varieties are obtained through repeated breeding experiments and selections, but some varieties are wild forms.
In ancient times, it was cultivated along with medicinal plants. They were valued for their beauty and fragrance. Perfume was made on the basis of rose oil, and the flowers themselves were considered a symbol of love, beauty and fidelity. The knights expressed their sympathy to the ladies, presenting them with roses, and images of flowers often adorned the coats of arms of noblemen. Therefore, it is not surprising that today roses are grown everywhere and they do not lose their popularity.
Today, many species and varieties of these amazing flowers have been bred, and as a result of their work, they are divided into two groups - own-rooted and grafted. When creating a rose garden, many cannot decide which flowers are best to grow, and some are even unfamiliar with such a division.
, so often these roses run wild. During wintering, the shoots of plants often freeze out, and the maternal roots survive. And in the spring, rosehips flaunt in place of rose bushes. But if the grafts of budded roses are buried in the ground to a depth of at least 2.5 cm, then such a rebirth can be avoided and a higher winter hardiness can be achieved.
They have a lot of advantages and differ:
- frost resistance
- immunity to diseases
- abundance of flowers
- inability to form root shoots
Such bushes will not become wild, and in case of unsuccessful wintering, new young branches will grow from the buds on the root neck, the bush will rejuvenate and will not lose its decorative effect.
But despite all the positive characteristics, growing own-rooted roses is fraught with a number of difficulties. Young seedlings will need at least two years to grow strong enough roots. Therefore, young rose bushes need careful care during this period, especially in winter. And also plants are more demanding on the quality of the soil.
Of all the methods of propagation of own-rooted roses, the most effective is the method of green cuttings. Rooting stem cuttings with feeding leaves is quite simple and even an inexperienced gardener can do it. For such reproduction, a lot of space is not required, and there is no need to master complex budding techniques.
For green cuttings, roses should be selected that have high rates of rooting cuttings. Preference should be given to:
- Easily rooted - large-flowered and small-flowered climbing, semi-climbing and miniature roses. The rooting rates of plants from this group reach one hundred percent.
- Medium-rooted - floribunda, polyanthus, remontant, hybrid tea and park ("Albe" and "Rugose") roses.
When planting own-rooted roses, the degree of growth of the bushes should be taken into account, this will help to correctly place the plants on the site. The place should be chosen sublime, because roses love heat, light and air. The key to successful rose cultivation is the proper preparation of the soil and planting material.
The best time for cuttings of own-rooted roses is early spring, immediately after the soil has thawed. But it is rarely possible to meet this time period, so cuttings are harvested both in summer and autumn.
In the summer, more effort will be required when caring for the cuttings, and in the fall, roses take longer to root due to lower temperatures.
The preparation of cuttings is carried out in several stages:
- One-year-old healthy shoots are selected and cut into fragments of 20-25 cm, removing flower stalks and lower leaves.
- The prepared planting material is placed in a honey or manganese solution; cuttings can also be kept in a growth stimulator.
- After processing, the cuttings should be dried and cut off the bottom at an angle of 45 degrees with a sharp tool. The cut should be as close as possible to the lower kidney.
- Immediately after preparation, the cuttings are planted in containers with prepared peat soil, which can be bought at the store. Planting material must be buried a few centimeters so that two buds are in the ground and 2-3 on the surface.
- The containers themselves are buried in the ground so that the edges of the pots are at ground level and watered abundantly. From above, young plants are covered with a glass jar, creating the effect of a greenhouse and maintaining the desired temperature (24-27 degrees). It will take about a month for roses to take root and at this time you need to carefully monitor the level of humidity in the jar.
- If the walls of the jar are covered with water droplets, then the air humidity is within the normal range. But as soon as the droplets begin to disappear, the jar must be removed, the cuttings and the container itself should be sprayed abundantly, and then placed in place.
- You should also water the ground around the cans and raise them for a few minutes every 2-3 days, providing the plants with fresh air.
A month later, the cuttings will begin to grow with young leaves, but the shelter is not removed until the rosette is placed under it. During this period, young plants are gradually hardened, opening them in the evenings. Every day, the time when roses are left without shelter should be increased. And after removing the caps, rose bushes should be provided with shade and gradually open access to the sun.
During autumn rooting, banks are not removed all winter, covering them with spruce branches.
After full rooting and development of a full-fledged root system, own-rooted roses can be transplanted. For this, landing pits are prepared with a diameter and a depth of half a meter. The bottom of the holes is equipped with high-quality drainage, which is used as expanded clay or other suitable material that prevents stagnant water.
The next layer of fertilizer is poured, which consists of humus, ash and dolomite flour. A seedling is placed in the formed mound and gradually sprinkled with fertile soil. After planting, the roses are watered abundantly.
After planting, own-rooted roses should be provided with complete care, which consists in regular watering and fertilizing. It is also important to regularly loosen the soil, preventing the formation of a crust on its surface:
- Irrigation. Watering should be plentiful and regular, because even a slight drought can lead to the fact that the plants stop growing and developing, and also lose their decorative effect. By autumn, the number of waterings is reduced, and in winter they stop altogether and resume with the onset of spring heat.
- Fertilizers. In the first half of the summer season, fertilizers are applied twice a month. It is recommended to add organics with the addition of minerals in liquid form. From the second half of July, fertilizers should be applied, which do not include nitrogen, but potassium and phosphorus predominate. This will help slow down the growth of the bushes.
Plants of the first year of life enter the time of flowering by the end of summer. By this time, their rooting and growth of the root system occurs. Therefore, often at the first frost, roses still bloom and the bushes are strewn with unopened buds.
Due to the fact that these plants are bred with the help of humans, they cannot prepare for winter on their own. Therefore, closer to autumn, care is aimed at accelerating the ripening of shoots. To do this, stop cutting flowers. This approach will help to properly prepare the plants for wintering.
In the autumn period, all efforts are directed to helping the garden survive the frost. To do this, preparatory pruning of rose bushes is carried out, which consists in removing all the tops and young branches.
The bushes themselves should be piled up, creating an embankment of at least 20 cm.
When frosts approach the mark of 10-15 degrees and the ground begins to freeze, then you should take care of additional shelter, which is used as spruce branches made of dry foliage, sawdust or needles, 20-25 cm high.
But for a successful overwintering of plants, not only air temperature is important. Helps to survive frosts abundant soil moisture. But in the spring it is necessary to timely rid the bushes of spruce branches in order to prevent the soil from rotting and the roots to rot. It is also necessary to ensure the removal of excess water. But gardeners recommend removing the winter shelter in two stages: after the snow has melted, the spruce branches are removed, and when the earth opens up, the bushes are unraveled.
Both own-rooted and grafted crops have their advantages. A good rootstock will give a powerful impetus to the development of plants, and its own root system will simplify cultivation and care. The choice of one or another group of roses depends on the climate and your own preferences. In the south, where hot and dry weather prevails, own-rooted crops are troublesome to grow, because it is difficult to calculate the amount and frequency of watering.
In colder regions, own-rooted roses grow better, but they need to be protected from frost, additionally covered with a thick layer of snow. Or grow plants in containers, which are planted in the ground for the summer, and brought indoors for the winter.
If you have the desire and patience, any flowers can be planted in the garden.
It all depends on the taste of the gardener and his willingness to provide proper care. In response, the roses will endow the owner with flowering bushes that will show off in the garden to the envy of neighbors and friends.
More information can be found in the video:
Which roses are better - having their own roots or grafted onto a wild rose? On sale you can find different options for seedlings, and each has its own advantages and disadvantages.
There are a lot of varieties of roses in the world, they all have their own properties and growing characteristics. When buying a seedling, it is useful to know how it was obtained. The method of planting, the growth rate of the bush, and the ability to overwinter sometimes depend on this. Rose seedlings are of two types:
- rooted from cuttings and growing on their own roots;
- grafted onto a wild rose.
Since the rose was originally imported from countries with a warm climate, where there are no negative temperatures in winter and, accordingly, winter dormancy, it became necessary to graft on a winter-hardy wild rose. It is the grafted roots of winter-hardy wild rose that give the rose enhanced nutrition, powerful growth, disease resistance and, most importantly, increased winter hardiness.
A grafted rose is a symbiosis of two separate organisms - a tender rose (graft) and a more powerful wild rose (rootstock).
Most of the modern varieties of roses known to us tolerate frosty winters quite well. Especially under cover of lutrasil or other similar materials. They can be propagated in a simple way - root cuttings. Such roses do not need rose hip rootstock for wintering, but growers still graft them. This is done to quickly obtain planting material.
Some varieties of roses grow very quickly, while others develop slowly, the first few years they grow roots, but do not give powerful shoots and do not bloom. In order to get a good flowering bush for sale in a year or two, a thin branch of a rose is grafted onto a wild rose with strong roots.
What are the benefits of grafted roses? It is believed that the grafted rose is more frost-resistant. Indeed, in the first years, a native-rooted rose is inferior in frost resistance, especially if it is a heat-loving variety. But a 3-4 year old plant is already quite winter-hardy. Moreover, if the shoots freeze in winter, then it is likely that shoots from dormant buds will grow from the root. Well, from a grafted rose, with the death of shoots, only a stock can grow - a wild rose.
With improper planting (as well as improper grafting), rose hips give a lot of shoots. When the grafting site is deepened to a certain depth (usually 3-5 cm), a condition is created under which the dog rose does not reject the rose and, having no upper growth points, cannot independently create its own crown. When planting a bush, when the grafting site is above ground level, the wild rose stops "feeding" the rose and forms its crown (root growth). Over time, a powerful wild rose grows, and the rose does not receive enough nutrition and dies. At the household level, they mistakenly say that the rose was "reborn" into a wild rose.
Such growth can also appear with proper planting. If shoots appear that differ in color and shape of leaves from the old ones, then they need to be cut out.
When planting a bush, when the grafting site is too deep, the rose forms its own roots. Over time, the wild rose may die and the rose grows on its own roots. In some cases, it becomes weaker and more vulnerable, in others it grows beautifully on its own roots.
The depth of the grafting site during planting (from 3 to 5 cm) was determined by many years of experience and depends on the density of the soil and the group of roses. Tall groups of roses (climbing, park and English) are planted deeper, low-growing groups (patio, border and spray roses) with a small root collar and a small root system are planted higher.
Which method of cultivation to choose - there is no general opinion. For several decades, rose growers have been arguing about the advantages of budded (grafted) roses compared to own-rooted ones. For many years, budded roses were perceived as a scientific achievement. But own-rooted roses also have many advantages: they are no less winter-hardy, disease-resistant, and bloom profusely. In addition, they do not form shoots from the rootstock.
Which roses to choose
Experienced specialists have their preferences, but still the general opinion can be formulated as follows - there are varieties that give the best result on their own roots, and there are those that are still better to plant.
For ordinary garden lovers, the choice is determined by the planting material on the market: some varieties of roses are sold only grafted, others - rooted. For an experienced grower who uses the services of a serious nursery with a good reputation, it does not matter whether to buy a budded or own-rooted rose. It all depends on personal preference. For example, a fastidious florist will purchase a Canadian Explorer series rose - own-rooted, and a hybrid tea - on a rootstock. If you need a particular variety, you will have to take the rose in the form in which it is offered. Typically, vintage roses are grown in nurseries on their own roots, and most hybrid tea and floribunda roses are budded.
Special opinion among rose growers living in the northern regions. They prefer grafted roses. There are not many varieties that can withstand harsh winters. During the short northern summer, heat-loving roses do not have time to grow powerful mature shoots that can winter well. A good stock in this case will give the desired result.
In warmer climates, many rose lovers buy budded roses from nurseries, then take cuttings of the variety they like and root them. Most of the popular cultivars grow equally on rootstocks and on their own roots.
A significant plus of a self-rooted rose is that when transplanting, an overgrown bush can be divided.
Can a grafted rose grow on its own roots?
When planted deeper, roses develop their own roots above the scion point. They provide additional nutrition, but are usually quite weak at first. The roots of roses tend to grow on any part of the stem that comes into contact with the soil, and over time, grafted roses may well become their own roots.
Some gardeners spud roses or fall asleep for the winter with humus. In winter, it protects against freezing. If the winter is warm, then in the spring roots appear on shoots sprinkled with soil.
In some cases, the original root rots or dries out in roses, then their own roots help the plant survive. The growth and development of such a bush slows down for a year or two, but after strengthening its own root system, the rose will delight with powerful shoots and abundant flowering.
There are varieties and varieties of roses (floribunda, hybrid tea) for which deep planting is not recommended. Sometimes this leads to rotting of the grafting site (especially if the soil is too wet or there is melt water for a long time in spring), and in other cases, growth simply slows down, the bush does not give new shoots of strong shoots from the base. If you like the variety, then you just need to try to root the cuttings to get new own-rooted roses.
Many gardeners love to grow their own rooted roses. They are grown by those who want to have a large assortment of various varieties on their site. You can borrow the views you like from neighbors and friends. If you try, incredibly beautiful specimens are easy to grow on your site. Own-rooted roses are different from grafted rose hips. The latter are most often sold in the market, fairs and in the store. It is desirable to have both types on the site, since each of them has its own minuses and pluses.
Selecting a landing site
If you decide to grow own-rooted roses, then it is better to choose a place for planting on the south or south-west side of the site. Roses are very demanding on the composition of the soil and the presence of nutrients in it.
Own-rooted roses grow well, bloom profusely, with good shelter they easily endure wintering. The soil for planting should be rich in humus, well drained, with a groundwater level of at least 1 meter to the soil surface. Clay, heavy soil does not warm up well and is not suitable for growing own-rooted roses.
If there is no natural slope, it is better to plant roses in raised beds. Under such conditions, good soil warming and normal water flow are ensured.
Planting a native rose
After the place and soil are chosen correctly, you can start planting. It is required to lower seedlings into pre-prepared pits. Own-rooted roses are carefully knocked out of a pot with a clod of earth and planted in such a way that the bush in the ground sits 3-4 cm lower than it was in the pot. Such immersion in the soil will allow it to take root better and enable the active development of additional adventitious roots.
When planting roses in rows, the distances between the bushes should be observed:
- polyanthus - 25x50 cm;
- climbing and other vigorous roses - 100x200 cm;
- hybrid tea - 35x50 cm.
After the bushes are planted, the beds must be watered abundantly, mulched with peat or humus.
Own-rooted roses: care
In order for the vegetation to proceed normally, the flowering was violent and colorful, roses require a lot of water. Own-rooted roses are especially finicky in this matter. This is explained by the fact that many of them have a horizontally located superficial root system. If the top layer of the soil, along with the roots, overheats too much, the plants fall into such an oppressed state that they slow down in growth and stop flowering altogether.
It is necessary to water and loosen the soil, to break the crust that remains after the rains. Throughout the summer period, roses need to be fed once every two weeks. An excellent remedy is fresh mullein with additives from mineral fertilizers.
Summer period
The flowering of own-rooted roses occurs in August, September, especially if the weather is warm with moderate rainfall. By this period, bushes on well-cultivated, loose soils take root perfectly. The root system expands in all directions, the crown is actively developing, subsequently giving abundant flowering.
It is worth noting that when caring for own-rooted roses, it is better to remove the first buds in June, then the plant will use all its strength to take root. In the second wave of flowering, around August, the flowers will be stronger and more beautiful.
Own-rooted roses require special care in the first years of life. They reach full strength by the age of five, but they please the eye much longer than grafted varieties.
Pre-winter agricultural technology
With the arrival of the first frost, own-rooted roses are often still in full bloom with a large number of unopened buds and young shoots. In general, a rose is a heat-loving plant that does not have its own natural mechanisms for preparing for the winter period.
That is why, in the second half of summer, agricultural technology should be aimed at ensuring that the shoots begin to ripen and their main growth stops. To do this, in July you need to stop cutting flowers, in August - cancel all nitrogenous top dressing. Additional plant nutrition should be made using potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.
Preparing for the winter
Preparation of own-rooted roses for the winter period takes place in October-November. It is necessary to prune all growing tops, grassy shoots. Then, at the base of the bush, you need to cut out the young shoots, after which the plant should be spudded. Each rose bush is covered with earth, which is taken between the rows; The height of the soil layer should be approximately 15 cm.
After the frosts get stronger to -10 ° C, the plants additionally need to be insulated with spruce branches, as well as a 20-cm layer of leaves. In the first wintering, own-rooted roses are the most tender and susceptible, so they need to be wrapped very carefully.
Adult bushes endure wintering more easily; they only need one round. The most winter-hardy species are polyanthus, park, climbing.
The result of wintering largely depends not so much on low temperatures as on soil moisture in autumn and spring. There are cases when a well-wintered bush rots from excess moisture. This happens due to the belated removal of the shelter from the plant or poor water flow at the place of growth.
rose awakening
Growing own-rooted roses is a painstaking process. After wintering, it is recommended to remove the insulation from the bush gradually. The layer of leaves is removed as the snow melts. As soon as the soil thaws, roses need to be unraveled, while leaving spruce branches. The latter will shade the plant until the buds appear.
On cold, heavy soils, own-rooted roses start growing a little later than grafted ones. On warm and light soils, both species awaken at the same time.
Climbing, park, hybrid-polyanthus, polyanthus, some types of tea-hybrid and remontant varieties are most suitable for growing own-rooted roses.
Own-rooted roses develop especially well, which have the features of their biology - high rooting ability, active development of the root system.
The advantage of roses is that after overwintering, the plant often survives due to the fact that a new life develops from adventitious buds located in the underground part of the bush.
The difference between a rooted rose and a grafted rose
Own-rooted, grafted roses - all of them, of course, are the decoration of any garden plot. What is the difference between these types of plants?
Floriculture farms rarely grow their own root process, which is more laborious and lengthy, especially for the tea-hybrid group.
If you decide to buy your own root rose, be aware that the young bush of the plant will look weaker than its grafted counterpart. But despite this, its survival rate is quite high.
Own-rooted bushes grow more slowly and reach full strength by the age of five. The vaccinated have more active growth; the disadvantage is the short lifespan. Some native-rooted varieties can grow up to 15 years, pleasing the eye with abundant annual flowering.
Often, rosehip growth on grafted varieties causes a lot of trouble. There is no such problem in caring for own-rooted species, shoots simply do not appear. Many gardeners try to transfer grafted varieties over time to their own roots.
Modern varieties of roses are the result of a thousand-year selection of ordinary wild rose, which has brought its magnificent fruits. What so interested the breeders of antiquity in this flower besides its amazing beauty? Then roses were considered medicinal plants with a healing aroma, and rose oil became a real breakthrough in perfumery. At the moment, all varieties of these flowers can be divided into two main types - own-rooted roses (that is, plants with their own root system) and grafted.
If you decide to create your own rose garden, you should decide in advance which type of flowers you prefer, since the care and reproduction of own-rooted and grafted roses are somewhat different.
Video "Roses, how to lay a rose garden"
What flower can be called ideal? The one that has a delicate aroma or amazing shade, intricate petal shape or rich green leaves? Whatever criterion you choose, a rose will perfectly match it. Even in the days of ancient civilizations, people identified roses with greatness and beauty, endowed the flower with truly divine properties and improved it in every possible way.
Own-rooted roses were considered the most resistant varieties - what is it? These are plants, the root part of which carries all the genetic characteristics of the breeding variety. It doesn’t matter if the first shoots are frozen in the spring - new ones will come from the root and they will have the same roses as the old ones.
But grafted varieties do not have such resistance. As a rule, they are obtained by budding, that is, grafting a varietal cutting with adapted and stronger rosehip roots. Over time, such flowers can run wild, shrink and degenerate. And if the varietal part freezes, wild rose shoots begin to grow from the rootstock.
own-rooted roses
The propagation method of these two types of roses also differs. The main difference is that own-rooted plants can be propagated by layering or cuttings, as well as by dividing the mother bush, and grafted roses can only be propagated by grafting onto a “donor” rootstock.
The list of differences and advantages can be continued, because own-rooted varieties:
- resistant to low temperatures;
- have more powerful immunity;
- differ in lush flowering;
- do not form root shoots;
- they do not run wild and can self-rejuvenate.
The disadvantages of breeding and caring for own-rooted roses are the difficulty in growing and the long period of building up the root system - at least two years. In this regard, young bushes, especially in winter, require special care. Such plants are more demanding on the soil and irrigation schedule.
Methods for propagating own-rooted roses
The most effective and productive way to propagate native-rooted plants is considered to be green cuttings. Stem cuttings take root quickly and reliably, moreover, such propagation does not require large space and knowledge of budding techniques.
To increase the reliability of green cuttings, plants with high cutting rooting rates should be selected. These roses include the following varieties:
- large-flowered climbing;
- small-flowered climbing;
- semi-climbing;
- miniature.
Floribunda, polyanthus, remontant, hybrid tea and park roses take root a little worse.
So that the roots do not rot, and the flowering is always lush and long, roses are planted on a hill, in a well-lit place.
We prepare planting material correctly
Cuttings of own-rooted roses are best in the spring, after the ground has completely thawed. If this did not work out in the spring, cuttings can be postponed until summer or autumn, although rooting is worse during these periods.
Preparation of cuttings consists of several stages:
- Selection and cutting of one-year-old completely healthy shoots into fragments of 20-25 cm with the obligatory removal of peduncles and lower leaves.
- Keeping the resulting cuttings in a honey or manganese solution for disinfection and nutrition.
- Drying the cuttings and trimming the lower ends at an angle of 45 degrees with a sharp tool, as close as possible to the lower kidney.
Ready cuttings are planted in pots with peat soil, deepening a few centimeters, that is, two buds. After that, the pots are buried in the soil along the upper edges. And well watered. Watered cuttings are covered with a jar to create a greenhouse effect. So the plants will spend about a month, you need to follow. Make sure that the walls of the jar are always covered with water droplets. To do this, periodically remove the jar for a short time, and spray the plants and soil abundantly. This procedure is recommended to be carried out every three days.
You can remove the jar only when the planted stalk ceases to fit under it. It is also necessary to accustom plants to the sun gradually.
Planting rooted cuttings in the ground
Before planting rooted young roses in the ground, the landing site should be prepared in advance. To do this, dig a landing hole with a depth and a diameter of half a meter. A layer of expanded clay is poured to the bottom, and then a layer of fertilizer from humus with ash and dolomite flour. A finished rosette is planted in this layer, carefully sprinkling the hole with fertile soil, and watered.
The nuances of caring for a rosary
The main and regular steps for own-rooted roses are proper watering, timely sanitization, pruning and fertilization. A replacement for irrigation in a humid climate can be the loosening of the soil, its additional saturation with oxygen.
Irrigation rules consist in regular and abundant irrigation, since overdrying of the soil can adversely affect not only the above-ground part of the bush, but also its root system. Insufficient watering leads to crushing of flowers, loss of brightness of shades and lack of aroma. Watering is reduced only with the onset of autumn cold weather, and for the winter they stop completely.
Fertilizers should be applied according to the following scheme: at the beginning of summer - twice a month, liquid organic matter with minerals, from the middle of summer - twice a month, nitrogen-containing compounds with potassium and phosphorus, which slow down the growth of stems.
If the roses are not more than a year old, they can bloom only by the end of the season, and leave under the snow with opened flowers and buds. It's not scary, next year flowering will begin on time.
To help roses survive the winter, bushes must be carefully pruned in the fall, carefully removing all tops and young branches. After pruning, it is best to spud the bushes well, creating an earthen roller at least 20 cm high around the trunk.
As soon as the temperature on the thermometer drops below 10-15 degrees with a minus sign and the surface of the soil becomes a solid rose, you should carefully cover it with spruce branches or dry foliage. Sawdust or needles are suitable as a replacement. The height of the shelter should be more than 20-25 cm. Beforehand, do not forget to moisten the soil around the bush well. It is worth being afraid in winter not only of frost, but also of rodents, which do an excellent job with the shelter material, arranging nests in it and eating trunks. To avoid this, you can first install a metal or plastic barrier around the bush from cut cans, buckets, kegs.
Video "Pruning and sheltering roses for the winter"
As soon as the snow melts, all shelter must be carefully removed so that the roots and trunks do not rot. survive frosts abundant soil moisture. But in the spring it is necessary to timely rid the bushes of spruce branches in order to prevent the soil from rotting and the roots to rot. It is possible to unwind the bushes only in those cases when the night temperatures become positive.
Own-rooted or grafted: which is better
It is impossible to answer this question unambiguously. Among amateurs there are many admirers of both one and the second type. Here you need to take into account, first of all, the peculiarities of the climate and your own preferences. If winter temperatures rarely drop below zero, and the sun is too active, it is best to choose grafted roses for planting, and for northern latitudes, native-rooted varieties are more suitable.
Despite the hassle and complexity of growing roses, caring for roses is worth the effort. As a result, you will get profusely flowering, magnificent bushes that can decorate any site and delight the entire neighborhood with an incredible aroma. Such flowers are a unique way to create an unusual and spectacular landscape design.
