Propagation of self-rooted roses - how to do it correctly. Seedlings of own-rooted roses Own-rooted or grafted roses

When terms such as “rooted roses” and “grafted roses” are used, novice gardeners do not understand what we are talking about, or rather, they do not see the difference between these two categories. Indeed, both roses are practically no different in appearance.

Is it better for a rose when it grows on its own roots? And what will happen if it is grafted onto other roots? Let's identify the differences between native root roses and grafted shrubs.

All about grafted roses

Many of rose bushes at the market they are presented to buyers as “grafted” rose bushes. They have the top of a variety that is usually not as hardy when grown on its own root system. The lower part - the rootstock - belongs to another, more hardy variety, and sometimes wild species roses

In order to determine whether a rose has been grafted or not, examine the lower part of the plant: a protrusion in the form of a thickened ring will be visible at the grafting site. Ungrafted roses will have the entire stem the same.

Let's look at an example. If we need strong roses, then the lower part of the grafted bush can have roots climbing rose, for example, R. Multiflora or the “Doctor Hugh” variety, which is extremely hardy and strong, and in addition, shoots very quickly and actively. Even if upper part For some reason it will die, the lower one will give new shoots. Minus in in this case The only problem will be that “Doctor Hugh” does not bloom as beautifully as we would like, so it will have to be grafted again.

Another good rootstock for grafting roses is Fortuniana. But it should be noted that in this case it is important not to forget about winter shelter, since these roses tolerate winter less easily. But at the same time, varieties grafted onto this type of rootstock produce flowering much more actively than those grafted onto R. Multiflora or Dr. Hugh.

So, when looking for rose bushes for your garden, remember that grafted bushes consist of two types of roses, so when the upper part dies, the lower buds and root shoots will not inherit the flowering properties. New plants may look like wild roses.

Roses on their own roots

“Own root” means that the rose bushes are grown on their own root systems. Some of these plants will be less hardy and more prone to disease until they mature. You can also find varieties that retain weak adaptation throughout their lives.

Before purchasing a rose with its own root system, you must make sure that the variety is guaranteed to be suitable for your conditions. In addition, do not forget that you can graft yourself, so if you really like the plant, buy it, but provided that you have a good rootstock for it.

Most often you can find ungrafted dwarf (miniature) roses. They are indeed more tenacious than their tall, abundantly flowering relatives. Also, wild varieties of roses are not grafted, since they themselves are winter-hardy and strong against any disasters.

Conclusion: The advantage of roses growing on own roots, it will be possible to maintain the purity of the variety, even if the above-ground part completely dies. The advantage of grafted roses is resistance to cold and disease.

Which roses to choose, grafted or with their own roots?

Disputes on this topic have not subsided for a century. To decide, it is worth listening to both sides.

Flowering, early ripening.

  • Self-rooted roses . Most of the heritage (old varieties of roses) are grown on their own roots. Such plants take root well and grow from ordinary rooted cuttings obtained from original plants taken in old gardens. Self-root roses are propagated by rooting stem cuttings of one rose variety. Such plants will produce several new full-sized stems each year, reaching maximum height and width in 2-5 years, depending on the variety. It should be noted that they do not bloom immediately in accordance with the ripening period, but when they reach the flowering period they give a gorgeous result.
  • Grafted roses . Hybrid tea roses became popular in the 20th century, they were obtained by grafting onto another variety. Rootstock had already become a way mass production the desired variety. Roses are grafted onto a previously grown rootstock, so they usually reach mature size in 2-4 years. Those. you can save a whole year by getting early blooms.

Morbidity, survival rate. Grafted roses do not inherit, whereas roses with their own roots carry the disease with them when they reproduce. But from the point of view of survival, one can still argue here.

Roses with their own roots are usually sold in pots while in wet soil all year round. When buying a seedling, you can tell with complete certainty whether it is alive or no longer suitable for planting. This plant is very simple, the survival rate in this case is also high. Grafted roses can be sent for sale only in a dormant state, therefore, when purchasing such a plant, we will not be able to find out whether it has retained its viability until the bush comes out of dormancy after it has been planted. In addition, with self-rooted roses you will never have to bother with removing unwanted growth. At the same time, grafted roses require regular removal of new shoots, since they will not be varietal.

Survival . The rose's own root, if it dies from the cold, can produce new varietal shoots. After the death of the aboveground part of the grafted roses, you will have to vaccinate again. A number of experts believe that some varieties grow better on their own roots, while they bloom profusely and are more hardy. Others claim this about grafted roses. However, practice shows that young roses on their own roots at first are not strong enough to fight some diseases, while grafted seedlings show the opposite result.

Any gardener sooner or later has the desire to plant roses on his plot. And then the question of choice invariably arises. To begin with, the florist must decide which groups and varieties of roses he would like to grow, and then understand whether these will be rooted plants or grafted ones. Both species have their fans. Some people prefer one, while others constantly breed others. It is useless to argue about which roses are better, self-rooted or grafted. Since each has its own advantages and disadvantages. You need to figure out what the difference is, and then accept the right decision it will be much easier.

Reproduction methods

There are several ways to grow and propagate rose bushes:

  • cuttings;
  • seeds;
  • budding (grafting);
  • layering.

Each of the methods is interesting in its own way. It is better to choose a growing method depending on the chosen plant variety. Since each has its own nuances that must be taken into account.

Rooted

Familiarize yourself with the features of your own root roses, and you yourself will understand where to choose.

  1. They are considered to be 10-15% more productive.
  2. More stable and unpretentious.
  3. Cannot be planted in open ground in the first year. They need to be grown, since the root system is still weak and there is a danger of freezing with subsequent rotting.
  4. Good color is given only for 3-4 years.
  5. Significantly more durable than grafted bushes. At proper care A self-rooted rose can please the eye for about 50 years.

In Germany there is a rose bush, which can rightfully be called a miracle of nature, since it is about 1 thousand years old and blooms every year.

Vaccinated

Recognize a budding rose by appearance It's not difficult at all. There will be a noticeable cut on its stem with a grafted core from a cultivated variety. This is the main visual factor that distinguishes grafted roses from own-rooted ones. Therefore, when purchasing a seedling, you can easily see the difference and accurately distinguish one species from another. In fact, a grafted rose consists of two plants: a rose hip root, called a rootstock, and a cultivar of rose - a scion.

Let's look at the features of a grafted bush to understand what the difference is.

  1. A 2-3 year old rosehip is used as a rootstock, so the roots are strong and well developed.
  2. The seedling is immediately ready for planting in open ground.
  3. It begins to bloom in the year of planting.
  4. Requires mandatory suppression of wild growth. The roots of the rose hips will periodically sprout their shoots, if they are not cut off, then cultivar a grafted rose will gradually develop into an ordinary rose hip.
  5. The ground part is more tender and less winter-hardy.

If your goal is to cut roses, then it is better to choose grafted ones. She will give you what you want much faster and abundant flowering. Pay attention! It is better to give preference to this type of roses if you live in the southern regions. Because severe frosts could destroy such a delicate beauty.

Own-rooted and grafted roses, what is the difference during storage?

In the event that you dig up rose bushes for the winter and bring them into the house or into storage, you must definitely adhere to temperature regime. Self-rooted bushes must be stored at temperatures from -2 to +6 degrees. If the room temperature is higher than +10, they will begin to vegetate.

Grafted varieties must be stored in cooler conditions. The optimal temperature for them will be from -2 to 0 degrees. And already at temperatures higher than +2 degrees, they can begin to grow.

After reading this material, you will understand how to distinguish a rooted rose from a grafted one. And taking into account your goals and the difference in types, you can make the right choice.

Purchased roses often become wild over time.

The reason for this phenomenon is their grafting onto rose hips, the offspring of which begin to take nutrients, due to which the grafted variety gradually dies.

This can be avoided by growing own root roses, we’ll talk about this today in the next article in the “” section

The procedure is simple; both climbing and park roses take root equally well for me.

The main thing is to cut

In June, before the plants bloom, I cut annual shoots.

I cut each of them into several cuttings 15-20 cm long, remove the peduncles and 2 lower leaves.

After this, I keep the cuttings in a honey solution for 1 hour (1 teaspoon of honey per 1 liter of water), and then immediately plant them at an angle of 45 degrees, on a prepared bed with light, fertile soil.

I plant in such a way that the grown plants do not interfere with each other in the future. After planting, I water the cuttings well and cover them with plastic wrap.

Watering

For about a month, until the cuttings take root, I water them at least 2 times a week. Then I gradually open the film for ventilation: at first for no more than an hour in cloudy weather, gradually increasing the time and after a few days I remove the film completely.

Feeding roses

Every 2 weeks, I feed the rooted plants with an infusion of slurry (1:10) with the addition of 1 liter of ash (per 10 liters of solution). Be sure to loosen the soil between the rows and pull out the weeds. In the fall, with the onset of steady cold weather, I cover the bed with spruce branches, and in winter I sprinkle it with additional snow.

Transplanting roses to a permanent place

In the spring, when the soil thaws and warms up a little, I transplant the roses to a permanent place.

I dig a hole measuring 50x50 cm, lay drainage at the bottom (a little crushed stone or broken red brick), add 2-3 buckets of humus, 1 liter of ash. 300 g superphosphate and a little dolomite flour, mix everything thoroughly and form it into a mound. I install the seedling so that its apical root is 7-10 cm below the soil level. Then I fill it with the top fertile layer soil and water it abundantly.

Pest Control

When pests appear, I treat the bushes with a solution of Inga-Vir or Fufanon (according to the instructions) with the addition liquid soap. I try to do this late in the evening, when the flight of bees and other beneficial insects stops.

Advice for rose growers:

For longer flowering of roses, pinch out strong annual shoots. Thanks to this, lateral growths with peduncles will appear on them.

ROSES. ROOT OR GRAPTED. GROWTH.

Own root or grafted.

Grafted roses are now found on sale more often than own-rooted ones - this is due to the higher simple process production of grafted roses.

Nurseries take two-year-old rootstocks and, by grafting a rose onto them, within a year they receive fully grown, marketable seedlings.

Cuttings of roses need to be grown from scratch for several years. Large industries it's not profitable.

Both grafted and self-rooted roses have their advantages.

Some gardeners look exclusively for their own rooted roses, while others trust only grafted ones.

The choice is yours.

In our practice, both have proven themselves well, of course, with the right approach to their characteristics.

Growth rate and strength:

Grafted roses, in the first couple of years after planting, outstrip rooted roses in growth, just as they are grafted onto a rootstock that is already 2-3 years old.

In the first years, the rooted ones lag behind the grafted ones, gaining strength in the third - fourth year. Then it can even overtake the grafted rose in terms of growth and flowering.

Winter hardiness:

Winter hardiness depends on many factors. But, if we consider the same variety, on its own roots and grafted, then the self-rooted rose will be inferior to the grafted one only in the first couple of years. Then she gains strength and builds up root system not worse at all. Their winter hardiness is approximately equal.

Recovery:

If, after a harsh winter, the rose bushes suddenly freeze, then their own roots are restored from underground buds.

And a grafted rose, having frozen, will only produce rosehip shoots from under the ground. Although this problem can be solved by initially deepening the grafted rose bush. In this case, cultural renewal buds are preserved underground.

Overgrowth:

Another advantage of a self-rooted rose is that it does not produce wild shoots, as happens with a grafted rose.

Used as rootstocks for roses various types rose hips, only a few of them do not produce root shoots. Such growth must be removed in a timely manner so that it does not drown out the main bush.

Lifespan:

The lifespan of a grafted rose is 10-12 years at best. There is always a gradual separation of the scion from the rootstock. Depending on the quality of the graft and compatibility, this process takes different times, sometimes roses die within 3-5 years.

It is good if, when planting, the grafting was deepened (by 10 centimeters, depending on the soil) and the rose managed to move to its roots by the time the rootstock was rejected.

Own root roses live much longer than vaccinated people. With proper care, their age reaches 30-40 years.

Root system:

Self-rooted roses have a fibrous root system with shorter and more branched roots, located relatively shallowly, compared to the roots of rootstocks of grafted roses. Consequently, it is easier to fertilize and can be done not very deeply. landing hole. This rose can grow on soils with close lying groundwater, where the grafted rose will not feel very good.

At the same time, a grafted rose has a long, tap root. It will suffer less from a lack of moisture than a self-rooted rose.

Bloom:

It has been noticed that self-rooted roses bloom more intensely than grafted roses of the same variety by 10-15%.

In other respects (height, bush shape, color and other qualities of the variety) there are practically no differences.

Wild growth.

It happens that grafted roses grow wild shoots.

It grows below the grafting site, directly from the rootstock. It must be removed immediately by digging up the bush a little and cutting it out from the base.

It can be difficult for an inexperienced gardener to understand whether the growth is coming from the rootstock or whether it is a cultivated shoot.

Many people think that cultivated roses have a leaf consisting of five leaves, while rosehips have seven leaves. But that's not true. Among modern roses there are many varieties with seven and even nine leaves per leaf.

Therefore, before cutting out the shoot, make sure that it is really different from the main bush.

Wild growth is usually more matte and does not have a reddish tint on young shoots, like many varietal roses.

I'm in at the moment I wonder if the Louise Odier and Morden Centennial roses are self-rooted?
Why am I asking... I would like to get a rose, but I wouldn’t want to bother too much with wrapping it up for the winter..
And as I understand it, those who own their own roots are less picky about this, right?

It is better to ask the seller about the grafting or root properties of these varieties. They could also graft and take cuttings.
As for winter hardiness, there are debates everywhere and always about which is better. But this, in my opinion, is like arguing about the primacy and secondary origin of the chicken and the egg.
I think it’s better to consider this issue from a slightly different perspective: which roses are best suited for your climate and your soils. Equally good recipes there was not and cannot be
In the southern regions, self-rooted roses, if you do not give them enough moisture, grow and bloom poorly. Drought doesn't make them healthier either. But in other regions where there is enough snow in winter, despite low temperature, those with their own roots will behave better. Tundra and forest-tundra are a separate conversation. There they are only in containers.
I will try to structure what I once read and tried, and was deposited in my head in the form of pros and cons of both.
Let's start with the root ones.
Pros (cons in parentheses)
1.after 3-4 years you get a fairly powerful mature plant(provided that these first notorious 3-4 years you will run around with them like small children)
2. in the future, you will be deprived of such manipulations as cutting out wild shoots (a dubious statement for roses grafted with a name, because when buying it, you have a specially processed rootstock, such as the Canina rose, which practically does not form it. This does not apply, naturally, for roses purchased from sellers with an unknown reputation)
Oops... Everything seems to be a plus
Vaccinated:
Pros (cons in parentheses)
1. In the first season you can get a well-developed plant with full flowering (I don’t see any downsides)
2. A lot of varieties that can decorate any area and turn it into a personal paradise on earth, and in a short time. And there are many new products!
The remaining advantages are indicated in parentheses when characterizing proprietary roots.
Disadvantages of vaccinated people, which are often used as arguments in disputes:
- cutting out overgrowth
Sorry, this question is incorrect. Depends on how it was planted, as well as on agricultural technology.
-grafted roses delight owners for up to 10 years.
Again it’s debatable: agricultural technology still rules! My mother-in-law’s grafted rose has been “spearing” for 20(!) years, although it was brought from England. Therefore, another call is justified: if you want less problems, buy roses from well-known companies in original packaging, etc., etc.
You can’t remember everything But the debate is endless, for myself I decided in favor of the vaccinated. And no one is forbidden to take cuttings from them and conduct experiments.
And one last thing.
Quote:
“And you have Helga, such a promising inscription under your nickname, that’s why everyone is probably hoping for your help in the form of advice, and not just the words “read previous topics””
Great advice, by the way! Let's not get too personal, please. A person helps, so let's be grateful.
However, everything is purely IMHO!