Is it possible to plant different varieties of strawberries side by side. Can I plant different varieties of strawberries side by side? Beets on the common garden

Strawberries grow in almost every suburban area. Gardeners know that to get a good harvest, it requires careful care. One of the questions about which disputes often arise is whether it is possible to plant strawberries of different varieties side by side. The answer to it will be presented in today's article.

Pollination Risk

Many summer residents believe that different varieties of garden strawberries should be located in different places, they should not be planted next to each other. Similar advice is sometimes given by the sellers themselves. It is the mixing of varieties and subsequent cross-pollination that is called the reason for the low yield and small berries.

In fact, this is nothing more than a myth. Cross-pollination is double fertilization, as a result of which the seeds receive both maternal and paternal qualities. This will definitely affect the quality of the crop.

Strawberries are a plant that does not have true fruits. The berry used for food is an overgrown receptacle with exclusively maternal properties. It does not depend on what kind of pollen was involved in the pollination process. Therefore, different varieties of strawberries on the same bed cannot affect the quality of the crop.

Why should varieties be separated?

Recommendations for planting different varieties of garden strawberries separately from each other are due to the fact that a person can subsequently get confused in them. One way to propagate this culture is to use daughter outlets formed from the mother plant. Since each bush gives a lot of whiskers that can become so as not to confuse the varieties, it is recommended to separate them. Is it possible to plant strawberries of different varieties next to each other? Yes, but for breeding only the species you like, it is worth grouping them. You can also plant in separate rows or spread over different beds.

Distance between bushes

Having decided to settle garden strawberries on their site, summer residents often ask themselves the question of the optimal distance between the bushes.

There are several methods for locating outlets on the territory. The distance between strawberries during planting depends on the method chosen.

Individual bushes are located at a distance of about half a meter from each other. Most often, strawberries are planted in rows. This method is the most convenient and gives a high-quality harvest. The distance between the bushes should be about 25 cm, and between the rows - up to 60 cm. The easiest way is to plant a "carpet". The dense placement of rosettes protects against weeds, but requires careful handling of the whiskers. Otherwise, strawberries will spread far beyond the habitat.

Another option for placing garden strawberries on the site is planting nests. The meaning of this method lies in the location of one bush in the middle, and 5-6 are planted around it. The distance between strawberries when planting nests is about 7 cm. At the same time, about 30 cm must be left between the nests themselves.

Methods for propagating strawberries

To settle strawberries on the site, you will need planting material. It can be bought as a seedling, grown from seeds, or using the mustache of existing plants.

Many people know the rules for planting strawberries in the spring. Seedlings need to be hardened by placing it for a while in a cool place. It is important to pay attention to the root system. It should be well developed and always with soil on the roots. Before planting, you need to prepare the soil and dig holes. The rules for planting strawberries in spring and autumn are the same. It is important that the roots in the hole are vertical. Holding the bush with one hand, you need to cover the roots with the other, not forgetting to tamp the ground.

Propagation of garden berries with a mustache has its own subtleties. To get strong planting material from a bush, it is necessary to remove flowers from it, preventing the appearance of berries. In this case, all the food will be given to the mustache. When they appear, you need to leave the strongest, and eliminate the rest. After the appearance of the roots of the plant, it is necessary to dig into the ground or immediately into a pot. At the end of July, the daughter bush can be separated from the mother bush and planted in the garden.

Getting seedlings from seeds

Growing strawberries from seeds is the most difficult way to get seedlings.

Seeding times must be observed. This is done in late February or early March. The soil should be light and fertile. Baking powder should be added to it. Is it possible to plant strawberries of different varieties next to each other? It is possible, but it is better to separate the seeds and identify them in different places. This will allow you not to get confused in the future and evaluate the most successful options. If you germinate the seeds in advance, you can immediately select weak specimens. They are also recommended to be hardened by placing them in a place with a temperature slightly above zero. Strawberries love the sight, so they need to be constantly watered. It is necessary to take care of sufficient lighting. Germination can take two to seven weeks.

Planting strawberries in open ground with seeds is possible in the spring. In autumn, it is necessary to transfer the grown plants to their permanent place.

Planting site for strawberries

In order for the bushes to bring a good harvest, black soil with the addition of ash is considered the optimal soil for them. In order for strawberries to overwinter well, the bushes must hold snow well. For this purpose, some use spruce branches as an additional covering material.

Is it possible to plant strawberries of different varieties next to each other, how can this affect the size of the crop? Some gardeners note that the berries on some bushes are getting smaller. They blame this on the location of several varieties in one place. Small berries appear for other reasons. Most often, a poor-quality crop appears due to the depletion of the soil and the degeneration of the variety. Therefore, it is recommended to transplant strawberries to a new place every 5 years. It is also necessary to replace varieties, especially if the bushes are affected by pests.

Each person, before planting a crop, carefully approaches the choice of a seedling, a planting site and tries to learn as much as possible about the plant, and this is not surprising, since we are counting on a generous and rich harvest. Plus, in order for what you planted to grow and begin to bear fruit, you need to wait several years, as a result of which mistakes can lead to the loss of more than one year. So, many novice gardeners are interested in whether it is possible to plant different varieties of grapes next to each other. This article is devoted to this topic and will give a detailed answer to your question.

About co-planting

Grape varieties planted together are pollinated. However, despite this, the ripening period of fruits, their taste and even color will not change in a negative direction. As for the brushes in the berries, they can be hybrid. At the same time, cross-pollination of grapes is a natural and normal phenomenon that favorably affects the harvest.

It is important to take into account the fact that varieties that have bisexual flowers can pollinate on their own, they do not need additional help. That's just, despite this, pollination from other bushes will be positively displayed on them, thanks to which you will get a wonderful harvest. If the culture has only female flowers, they cannot be pollinated by their own pollen. Such plants include the following varieties:

Sashenka;
Mascot;
Atlant;
Kesha.

Sometimes, in bad and rainy weather, the pollination process must be carried out independently, using powder puffs for this, which need to be “charged” on two types of grapes and only after that start work on pollinating female flowers. Such a process will not take you much time, but will bring tremendous benefits to the plant.

Improved pollination of flowers and benefits of some varieties

In order to improve the pollination of vine flowers, it is recommended to shake the trellis wires once a day with light movements. Sometimes bushes need to be hidden from the rain, for example, after hand pollination. For this purpose, use a film. It should also be taken into account that varieties that have exclusively female flowers have a number of advantages. So, for example, the talisman boasts a large berry, the weight of which is about twenty-three grams. Black delight will surprise you with mega-grains, which weigh about two kilograms, but Laura has a well-elongated milky-white berry.

Those varieties that are prone to bitterness are also recommended to be pollinated. You need to do this procedure even if the weather was good all the time. As for varieties that have flowers of two sexes, the pollination process will not have any effect. As an experiment, experts pollinated twenty grapes belonging to this group, and only one of them showed improvements, while others "gave" such fruits as last year. No color, smell or taste has changed. Thus, for them, such a procedure is superfluous, since it does not bring positive changes.

Good afternoon! Please explain whether it is possible to plant different varieties of strawberries side by side. We want to breed several varieties of crops in a small area, but the neighbors say that it will be pollinated. Will it affect yield? How to plant it correctly in this case?

There is no definite answer to the question of whether it is possible to plant different varieties of strawberries side by side. The opinions of scientists and practitioners are divided.

Scientists say that strawberries are a berry obtained by selection in the laboratory. The probability that under natural conditions pollination between different species can occur, then the pollinated seed will fall into the soil, germinate, and the sprout will not be removed during weeding, is practically zero. Mustaches and rosettes carry the properties of the mother bush, so these qualities do not depend on cross-pollination.

Practitioners believe that over time, cross-pollination occurs. Varietal strawberries lose their qualities: its taste, color, and aroma deteriorate. Reduced berry size. But it becomes noticeable when the bushes already need to be changed. Therefore, the owners of small plots plant different varieties of strawberries nearby.

The main problem they face in this case is mustache interlacing. If you liked some varieties, but you need to get rid of others, then it will be difficult to do this on a bed with intertwined mustaches. If plants with different ripening periods are planted nearby, this will lead to the fact that the collection of berries from one garden bed will stretch for a long time. This will complicate weeding, row spacing processing.

Therefore, practitioners recommend planting seedlings of different varieties of strawberries in different beds or in areas of the garden remote from each other (if possible). But this will not affect the quality and quantity of the crop. If this is not possible, the rows of bushes should be separated from each other by other plants: undersized marigolds, garlic.

Is it possible to plant different varieties of strawberry seedlings side by side?

There is no definite answer to the question of whether it is possible to plant different varieties of strawberries side by side. The opinions of scientists and practitioners are divided.

Also read: Butter dish: mushrooms on the lawn

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What can be planted next to strawberries: good and bad neighborhood in the garden

With the onset of spring, an active time begins for all gardeners and gardeners. They begin to spend more and more time on their plots, trying to grow as many different crops as possible, sometimes in a relatively small area. Strawberries (garden strawberries), with their juicy and tasty fruits, are usually grown by almost everyone. But not everyone knows what to plant next to strawberries so as not to harm her and grow a rich harvest of these wonderful berries.

In fact, strawberries are a fairly unpretentious plant and peacefully coexist with many vegetables, fruit plants and flowers. However, some crops can have a rather negative impact on its growth and reproduction. We will tell you in detail how to choose the right neighbors for strawberries.

The importance of proper crop rotation

First, let's talk a little about which plants are good predecessors for strawberries and which are not. Crop rotation is the most important agrotechnical measure, with its help the soil replenishes its natural reserves. Most crops are not planted in the same place every year because they take a different composition of nutrients from the ground. Another reason for the need for crop rotation is that different plants treat weeds, diseases, and pests differently. Strawberries have some pests, while cucumbers, for example, have completely different ones.

This rule does not apply only to potatoes, tomatoes and legumes - they are able to successfully bear fruit for many years in one place without depleting the soil. Strawberries, on the other hand, usually give a good harvest for 3-4 years, and then they need to be transplanted to another site. Therefore, you should know which crops will be good predecessors for garden strawberries, and which ones are best planted after it.

What to plant after strawberries

Each plant has its own requirements for soil, fertilizers, etc. Strawberries love organic fertilizers, loose and well-fertilized soil, in which potassium, nitrogen and trace elements should be present in sufficient quantities. This plant has a deep root system, therefore, observing the principle of alternation, it is better to plant crops with shorter roots in front of it. Also an important point of the crop rotation is that after the disease transferred by the previous plant, a crop showing sufficient resistance to it should be grown in this place next year.

When deciding what to plant after strawberries, experienced gardeners usually opt for root crops or legumes.

You can safely plant:

pumpkin;
zucchini;
cucumbers;
radish and turnip;
onion and garlic;
peas, beans, lentils.

Old strawberry bushes must be dug up and be sure to burn to destroy pests and pathogens. Then carefully remove all weeds and dig deep into the soil.

rosaceous raspberries;
hawthorn;
cloudberries;
rose hip.

These plants have many common diseases and pests with garden strawberries. They also make almost the same requirements for the composition of the soil.

The best predecessors of strawberries

The best crops that grew in the garden before planting strawberries on it are:

radish;
parsley;
spinach;
mustard;
garlic;
turnip and radish;
legumes;
carrots and beets;
corn.

Bulbous flowers will also be useful predecessors:

hyacinths;
tulips;
daffodils etc.

If the area of the site allows, agronomists recommend growing strawberries after black fallow or after soil improvement with green manure plants:

wiki
alfalfa;
buckwheat:
oats;
clover
lupine;
grain crops, etc.

Among other green manures, alkaloid lupine is considered the most suitable for strawberries. It produces substances poisonous to the wireworm, while it is absolutely harmless to berries, without affecting their taste and edibility.

After digging, the plants will remain in the soil. They will improve its structure, enrich it with nitrogen and have a positive effect on weed suppression. It is strongly not recommended to plant strawberries after potatoes, cucumbers and tomatoes.

Rules for planting strawberries

Combined planting allows you to economically and rationally manage the area of \u200b\u200bthe garden, especially if it is small. In addition, useful neighbors favorably influence each other, improving the condition, taste and nutritional value of the fruit. Another plus of such plantings is that plants protect each other from diseases and pests.

There are four rules for joint planting of plants that every gardener should know and follow.

Rule 1. Crops that need the same nutrients should not be planted next to each other. They will try to take them from each other, as a result, both plants will not develop well and bear fruit.
Rule 2. The neighborhood of plants that have different watering requirements is also undesirable. It turns out that one crop will not have enough water, and the second may suffer due to excessive watering.
Rule 3. Plants should not obscure each other. This can be done only in the case when one of the cultures requires exactly a shadow, diffused lighting.
Rule 4. If plants that have common diseases and pests are planted on the same bed or nearby, two crops can be destroyed at once. Such a landing is not recommended at all.

In the case of growing in greenhouses, it is important that each of the plants is suitable for humidity, light and air temperature.

As for strawberries, they need soft, loose soil rich in nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. It also needs abundant watering and sufficient, but not too bright lighting. Garden strawberries can be affected by late blight, so plants that carry this fungus should not be planted next to it. Of the pests, the most dangerous for berries are slugs and wireworms.

Mulching strawberry beds with coniferous (spruce or pine) needles has a positive effect on its taste.

To get a good, plentiful harvest, you need to select neighbors for strawberries, following the above recommendations and crop rotation rules.

Neighborhood with root crops

The best neighbor for garden strawberries among root crops is root parsley. Planted between berry bushes, it will repel snails and slugs. Also a good combination is strawberries and carrots, just don’t mix it with parsley, you need to choose one thing. But both carrots and parsley coexist well with garlic or onions.

You can also plant next to strawberries:

It is better to choose varieties for planting, the fruiting time of which coincides with this time for strawberries. Radishes can be planted directly between rows, for this they leave a distance between rows of 50-70 cm. And it is better to place radishes or beets on adjacent beds, but not by combining them with each other, but by choosing one of the crops.

The combination of strawberries with bulbs and herbs

Among bulbous plants, strawberries get along well with garlic and onions. Just do not need to plant them next to each other, since onions and garlic have common diseases and pests. In terms of usefulness, garlic is especially worth noting. It repels the fungus that causes late blight, and the berry is very susceptible to this disease, especially some varieties. The root parsley already mentioned above is perfectly “friends” with garlic.

Strawberries and onions also go well together. If you also plant carrots nearby, these crops will scare pests away from each other, and at the same time protect strawberry beds. Onion as a neighbor also contributes to the rapid growth of berries and the reproduction of strawberries, and eliminates the problem of rotting bushes.

Of the green crops, the berry goes well with plants such as:

sorrel;
spinach;
cucumber grass;
various types of salads.

The main part of green crops is unpretentious and does not impoverish the soil. They do not have pests in common with strawberries. And with the right landing pattern, they can create some blackout - in the southern regions, where the sun is active, this will be very useful. According to experienced gardeners, greenery accelerates the growth of strawberry whiskers, which is important for vegetative propagation. In addition, green crops do not require special care, and spicy herbs (coriander, basil, thyme, anise, tarragon, etc.) repel many pests.

Legumes and strawberries

Plants of the legume family occupy one of the leading positions in the list of neighbors useful for garden strawberries. These are peas, various varieties of beans and lentils and other crops. Thanks to their root system, they “loose” the soil and supply it with nitrogen, which is useful for the berry. Beds with legumes can be arranged in such a way that the strawberries are slightly shaded and receive not direct, but diffused lighting.

However, legumes, due to the production of nitrogen, can increase the acidity of the soil too much. To avoid this, you can use fertilizers containing alkali. And weeding will have to be done more carefully, because many weeds also grow very willingly next to legumes.

Strawberries and flower crops

In addition to vegetables and herbs, strawberries go well with flowers, especially with flowers such as tulips and irises. According to experienced gardeners, they are able to increase the yield of garden strawberries several times, contributing well to its growth. To the greatest extent, this applies to varieties of remontant strawberries. In addition, irises and tulips help the heat-loving plant to endure cold winter periods more easily.

In addition to them, you can plant other flowering plants next to the strawberry garden (or right on it):

clematis;
peonies;
fern;
rhododendron;
jasmine;
nasturtiums;
delphinium;
marigolds, etc.

These flower crops also have a beneficial effect on the growth and development of garden strawberries.

Flowers such as marigolds deserve special attention. Their properties repel many pests:

nematode;
weevil;
bear;
onion fly, etc.

In addition, these flowers protect against Fusarium, which is very important for strawberries.

You can plant marigolds not only in the beds and between rows, but also around the entire garden perimeter. It is also useful during the spring digging of the soil to scatter finely chopped stems of marigolds in it.

Neighborhood of strawberries with trees and shrubs

Favorable for strawberries and neighborhood with various trees and shrubs. They have a good effect on spruce berries, pines, sea buckthorn, grapes, etc. The main thing is that the trees do not strongly obscure the beds.

In no case should you plant strawberries next to a birch, it does not tolerate such a neighborhood very well. So much so that you can not see any harvest at all, ruining all the berries.

Plants with which strawberries are not planted

For some reason, some gardeners have an opinion about the almost absolute unpretentiousness of strawberries and the ability to plant them with a variety of plants. In part, this statement is true: you can plant anything and with anything. The only question is how this will affect the yield, and simply the survival of the plant.

Here is a list of plants next to which agronomists categorically do not recommend planting strawberries:

cultures of the nightshade family;
plants of the clove family;
raspberry;
cabbage;
horseradish;
sunflower;
Jerusalem artichoke.

The worst neighbors for garden strawberries will be the cultures of the nightshade family: tomatoes and potatoes, especially the latter. In addition to the fact that it consumes the substances necessary for strawberries, it is a carrier of late blight. Such a neighborhood very quickly (in 1.5-2 months) can destroy a strawberry garden.

Also, garden strawberries do not get along with plants of the clove family. And sunflower and Jerusalem artichoke deplete the soil for a long time and can harm not only strawberries, but also other plants, especially when you consider that sunflower seed husks are poisonous. Planting these plants near strawberry ridges is not recommended categorically.

This also applies to raspberries, which many summer residents often try to plant next to strawberries - and in vain, since raspberry bushes shade strawberry beds and dry out the soil. From this, garden strawberries often cease to bear fruit altogether.

Cabbage is an undesirable neighbor, as it needs the same substances as strawberries. In addition, it needs constant and abundant watering in much larger quantities than garden strawberries. These incompatible crops should not be planted in the same area.

Every gardener who grows strawberries always hopes to get a bountiful harvest of these delicious wonderful berries. Today we told you about which plants will contribute to this, and which will only bring harm. If we take into account local climatic features, do not forget about the correct crop rotation, and also provide careful care for the plant (timely watering, fertilizing and removing weeds), then a grateful berry will surely please the owner with a rich harvest.

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Mixed plantings: what can be planted on the same bed

Between plants located nearby, there is a certain interaction. Some of them are true friends who are ready to help each other in every possible way, the second are neutral, and the third tend to be at enmity with others. In order to use this influence to get a decent harvest and avoid annoying mistakes when planning a garden, it is necessary to understand which crops can be planted side by side, and which neighborhood of vegetables in the beds is highly undesirable.

What is mixed landings

If the garden area is small, but you want to get a variety of fruits, but more, circumstances suggest a way out: compacted crops or mixed plantings. This is a method of organic farming, when several different crops are cultivated in the garden at the same time: vegetables, herbs, berries, flowers, planted, taking into account the compatibility of plants, mixed or according to a certain pattern.

Mixed landings: benefits and beauty

The question is natural: is the topic of combined plantings relevant for owners of spacious plots? Each gardener, intending to populate his site with “green friends” in the spring, wants to get the most out of each garden. At the same time, any experienced vegetable grower knows that fertile land, high-quality seeds, healthy seedlings, the use of effective fertilizers, and competent care for plantings in the neighborhood are necessary to obtain a significant harvest.

However, few people take into account another significant circumstance: allelopathy. Don't let this scientific name of the phenomenon of biochemical influence of some cultures on others or their mutual influence scare you. Allelopathy is capable of providing mutually beneficial conditions for the coexistence of vegetables adjacent to the garden during joint plantings, but it can also serve as a factor that suppresses the development of individual species.

Good Neighborhood

The essence of the effect is that all parts of plants release into the environment (air, soil) biologically active substances - phytoncides, antibiotics and others. These compounds, depending on the species, can either be absorbed and act beneficially on crops located in the neighborhood, or oppress fellows in the garden. The successful selection of green "cohabitants" allows you to harvest more from the garden, grow healthy, beautiful fruits with improved taste.

In addition to the positive manifestation of allelopathy, there are still many profits that encourage the organization of joint plantings on the site, even if there is enough space for separate cultivation.

isolated neighborhood

Benefits of mixed landings

It is worth noting that the combination of vegetables in the garden is not the latest trend in garden agricultural technology. Since ancient times, the American Indians have known a successful trio: peas, corn, pumpkin. The classic community of plants has successfully migrated to our days and is successfully used by many vegetable growers: peas enrich the soil with nitrogen, corn serves as its support, pumpkin, covering the ground, fights weeds.

Classic trio

The organization of joint plantings is a more promising and exciting activity than the cultivation of monocultures on separate sites. However, the approach to planning "communal" beds must be responsible. It is not enough to know what vegetables and other crops can be planted nearby, you need to be prepared for observations, analysis of the results of the neighborhood. But people who have decided to experiment and have already harvested more than one crop from combined plantings note the many advantages of this approach:

The available land area is used more rationally, the crop is removed from it more than when planting with a monoculture.
Vegetables in the garden have a good appearance, are healthy or get sick less.
The need for crops for watering is reduced.
There is no need for frequent thorough weeding of beds.
Reduced time for preparatory garden work.
It becomes possible to reduce or eliminate the use of mineral fertilizers, due to nitrogen fixation by legumes.
One-sided depletion of the soil, its "fatigue" is prevented, the need for crop rotation gradually disappears.
Avoiding pesticides is becoming a reality, as many plants attract beneficial insects and pest-killing birds. There are also flowers and herbs that repel harmful insects and rodents.
The harvest is carried out throughout the season, if other crops are sown on the area vacated after the early ones.
It is possible to create a kind of microclimate in the garden, using tall, stable plants as wings to protect gentle neighbors from winds and direct sun.

Cabbage, marigolds, calendula - a wonderful neighborhood

Rules for the formation of combined landings

The experience and observations accumulated by gardeners show that, in addition to the listed advantages, mixed cultivation even affects the taste of vegetables. In particular, such herbs as basil, celery, monarda, parsley, improve the taste of tomatoes. Bush beans can make radishes more savory. A cucumber planted next to a sunflower will please you with especially sweet, crisp greens.

These tomatoes are especially delicious.

Choosing the right combination of vegetables among themselves in the garden and realizing all the advantages of growing plants in a mixed type is possible only if certain rules are observed. When planning the organization of a "communal" garden bed, it is necessary:

Consider the climate in the region.
To study the specific features of your own site and focus on them: a garden in the sun or in shading, is it protected from the winds, what are the agrotechnical characteristics of the soil, is there a possibility of watering.
Orient the beds in such a way that tall specimens do not shade light-loving neighbors and, on the contrary, shade those for whom the hot sun is harmful.
Combine plants with different growing seasons. Early vegetables, greens (onions, radishes, Chinese cabbage, lettuce) in mixed plantings should be planted with crops with a long ripening period (cucumbers, zucchini, eggplant, beets, tomatoes).
Decide whether there will be enough food area for all the "residents" of the garden. It depends on the development of their root system. Plants with deep, powerful roots should be placed next to crops with a shallow root system.

Scheme of a small garden bed with combined plantings

As a rule, three crops are grown in a mixed bed: the previous early crop, the main one, and the partner plant. With sufficient knowledge and experience in gardening, you will draw up schemes for combined plantings on your own. If you do not rely on your experience, use ready-made landing patterns, special tables from the examples below.

Compatibility table

Compatibility of crops on the same bed

Now we should dwell on the compatibility of some common crops with other plants in the common garden and figure out which neighborhood is beneficial for them, which is acceptable, and which is harmful.

Bow and the best neighbors for him

It is difficult to imagine the diet of a Russian without onions, every summer resident hopes to prepare it for the whole winter. It is interesting to find out how he behaves in a mixed garden, whether he makes the neighbors “cry”.

It is reliably known that onions are not only useful for humans - they are an excellent companion for many other crops, diligently protecting them from diseases and pests. Thanks to this, plants placed nearby develop well and give an increased yield. But the gardener, aimed at getting a solid harvest, is also interested in what kind of neighborhood is favorable for the onion itself.

We can immediately say that this vegetable will be comfortable in the company of salads, radishes, tomatoes, parsley, beets, cucumbers, strawberries. And from grapes, legumes, sage, you should keep it away.

Comfortable neighborhood

Many vegetable growers who master the technique of joint cultivation of vegetables are concerned with the question of whether it is possible to plant onions and garlic on the same bed, because they are so similar: they have the same sowing dates, requirements for soil, lighting, and agricultural technology. However, these cultures are from a common family - their similarity is also manifested in the presence of common pests, diseases, from which they cannot protect each other.

In onions and garlic, the root system is located superficially, which means that they can compete in terms of nutrition and moisture. There are more minuses in such a neighborhood than pluses, and it is not worth planting them mixed in a small area. In extreme cases, you can divide the "living space" between them in half. But the best option would be to plant onions and carrots on the same bed - this combination has become a classic in the practice of co-growing vegetables.

Carrots and onions are friendly

Carrots and the ideal growing environment

Carrots and onions are the perfect duo. They do not just coexist peacefully - their position is active in relation to each other's pests. Carrots will safely scare off the onion fly, and the carrot fly will not even approach the zone where the onion defender stands side by side with the tasty root crop. The simplest example of such a bed: the central row of onions along its length and two rows of carrots on the sides.

classic neighborhood

However, it is worth noting that these crops have different requirements for watering. When the bulbs are full and begin to ripen, the onion does not need water, it is even harmful to it, and at this time only give carrots a drink. If the climate in the region is such that vegetables cannot be grown without watering, one has to either leave onions only as a protector, or say goodbye to part of the carrot crop, trying to protect ripening onions from rot.

The way out of the described situation can be the cultivation together with carrots of perennial onions or onions for greens. Or you should find out what else can be planted on the same bed with carrots, and implement the idea. Having studied the above plate, you can make sure that carrots are good next to radishes, peas, lettuce, tomatoes, spinach, garlic. Its proximity to parsley, celery, dill is undesirable.

Carrots are comfortable next to radishes

By the way, many are surprised that the openwork sprigs of self-sowing dill should be removed from the garden with carrots. But everything is natural: these plants from the same family compete for water and food. In addition, both of them (like all umbrella ones) are attractive to the carrot fly. Therefore, leaving pretty dill bushes among carrot crops is undesirable. Moreover, it is unacceptable to deliberately plant carrots and dill in the same garden - this is an unfortunate neighborhood.

The result of an unsuccessful neighborhood

Garlic and other plants in the same garden

Garlic is a wonderful plant that endows the space around it with healthy phytoncides. It is a natural fungicide that is excellent in the fight against fungal infections. This quality is to the liking of most of garlic's neighbors: in its environment, potatoes can cope with late blight, carrots and psyllids will not be damaged by carrots, and strawberries will not be attacked by harmful insects.

Garlic is a natural healer

So you can plant a lot of vegetables, herbs, flowers next to garlic in the garden. He likes carrots, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, and celery especially favors him. And for the garlic itself, they are the best neighbors. Many flowers feel great in the presence of a fragrant vegetable. Of those with whom garlic is especially friendly in the garden, one can name roses and bulbous flowers: tulips, gladioli, daffodils.

Good garlic partners

Despite its beneficial properties, the neighborhood of garlic is contraindicated for peas, lentils, beans, peanuts. They can not be placed not only on the same bed, but also in the vicinity of a site planted with garlic, which has such an adverse effect on legumes that they cease to develop normally and almost do not bear fruit. It is unacceptable to plant cabbage and perennial onions next to it. But for raspberries, strawberries, garlic will be the best companion.

For tulips, the neighborhood with garlic is beneficial

Strawberries and Suitable Neighbors

When setting up a strawberry plantation, summer residents often think about what can be planted next to strawberries in the same garden to protect the berry from pests and diseases. Inquisitive farmers have found a solution: a healer from nature, garlic, does an excellent job with this task. He is afraid of such pests:

ants;
strawberry weevil;
nematodes;
wireworm;
spider mite.

Garden strawberry (in everyday life - strawberry)

The glorious defender of the sweet berry is planted in a row between the rows of strawberry beds and between holes with berry bushes. Strawberries (garden strawberries) reciprocate garlic: the heads of garlic grow even larger and stronger than when planting it on a separate “living space”. Everyone who practices growing strawberries and garlic in the same garden is sure that their neighborhood is very beneficial.

bittersweet couple

Beans, onions, eggplants, radishes, spinach, and parsley can also be considered good companions for fragrant berries. The latter drives away slugs from ripening berries. But there are no cultures with which strawberries would have poor compatibility: apparently, they are very friendly to their neighbors and are loved by all of them.

The best neighbor of strawberries is beans

It is known that different varieties of individual crops (for example, potatoes) can be at enmity, not only when planted side by side, but even during storage of the crop. Therefore, disputes are not uncommon between garden owners on the topic: is it possible to plant different varieties of strawberries on the same bed or this will lead to civil strife or cross-pollination. There is no reason to be afraid of one or the other: the bushes of garden strawberries simply do not know how to quarrel.

Cross-pollination occurs, but it will affect the type and quality of berries only if strawberries are propagated by seeds. With vegetative propagation, the variety will not be disturbed - the main thing is not to confuse which mother plant the rosette is separated from. For these reasons, it is worth planting varieties of garden strawberries, if on the same bed, then in separate groups.

Parsley keeps slugs away

Cucumbers in joint plantings

Pimply crunchy greens - what could be better at the beginning of summer? And if you are already set on the joint cultivation of vegetables, you should know which cucumber neighbor in the garden will be their faithful assistant, and which one will oppress. Cucumbers are picky, a good neighborhood is not a problem for them - in this regard, they are compatible with most vegetable crops. It is easier to list those plants with which cucumbers do not develop relationships.

Corn curtains protect from the wind

The list is short:

potato,
radish (here the opinions of experts differ),
tomatoes (debatable)
spices.

Dill is a wonderful partner of cucumbers

Much more than the neighborhood, the development of this vegetable is influenced by the microclimate and soil. Therefore, when deciding what to plant in a garden with cucumbers, more attention should be paid to the ability of companions to protect growing vines from the aggressive effects of the environment. For example, backstage of corn will be an excellent protection for cucumber lashes from the winds, and beans will supply them with nitrogen. Among herbs, there is one exception: dill goes well with cucumbers.

Another example of a pleasant neighborhood

Beets on the common garden

When deciding what to plant beets with, you should be guided by scientific data and be guided by common sense. The German scientist Hubmann, who studied plant compatibility for many years, concluded that plants such as beets, potatoes, tomatoes, bush beans, spinach can coexist perfectly, stimulating each other. Good neighbors for beets, in his opinion, are also onions, kohlrabi, lettuce, garlic, strawberries.

Commonwealth of root crops

As for the incompatibility of beets with other vegetables, there is no consensus. Some vegetable growers, in contrast to Hubmann, argue that this root crop does not grow well next to potatoes. However, many gardeners successfully grow it along the edge of potato ridges. Neither scientists nor practitioners have decided on the usefulness or harmfulness of the neighborhood of beets with corn, chard, chives.

There is a version that the substances secreted by beet roots have antibiotic properties and have a healing effect on neighboring plants. Therefore, growing, for example, beets and carrots on the same bed will have a positive effect on both crops.

Joint cultivation of beets, onions, carrots

True, care will need to be taken to maintain a sufficient interval between rows, bearing in mind that powerful beet foliage can greatly obscure companions. A good option for mixed growing vegetables would be a bed with a row of onions planted in the center, a row of beets and a row of carrots along the edges.

Pumpkin in the neighborhood with other cultures

Pumpkin does not experience special preferences and hostility towards vegetables growing nearby. However, the proximity to the previously mentioned corn, peas, as well as other legumes, radishes, and nasturtium can be called quite successful for her. Sometimes gardeners, trying to maximize the area of the compost heap, plant zucchini on it together with pumpkin.

Friendship is friendship, but the beds are better apart

But pumpkins and zucchini cannot be good neighbors in the same garden. As a result of cross-pollination, fruits of a shape and color unusual for both vegetables grow. Hybrids on zucchini grow round, and oblong on pumpkins. Their taste is also affected. This is a vivid example of the unsuccessful application of the mixed growing system, and it is not worth venturing into such an experiment.

Such a company is better for a pumpkin

Tomatoes surrounded by neighbors

Some consider tomatoes to be as individualistic as pumpkins. But, if we turn to the experience of Swiss, German and domestic gardeners, it is easy to see that the cultivation of tomatoes in the vicinity of other crops is quite realistic. They go well with radishes, lettuce, carrots, celery, parsley, beets, garlic. There is no doubt that these vegetables and herbs can be planted on the same bed with tomatoes.

Their mutual influence can be different. For example, the commonwealth of garlic and tomatoes is favorable for the latter: garlic protects them from spider mites and reduces the risk of late blight. And the best companion of tomatoes is basil, which not only promotes the growth of the vegetable, but also improves its taste. By the way, other aromatic herbs have the same property: borage, lemon balm, marigolds, mint.

The effect of nettle growing nearby is interesting: it increases the shelf life of tomatoes and improves the quality of tomato juice. As a rule, those who grow tomatoes and carrots on the same bed, the line of which is placed along a row of tomatoes, are satisfied with the results. But tomatoes have almost no enemies - only fennel can be attributed to obvious antagonists, which is such in relation to almost all vegetables.

Neighborhood eggplant pepper in joy

Bell peppers in the center of a mixed vegetable garden

It is impossible not to mention the possible neighbors of bell pepper in the garden. He has a good relationship with basil, eggplant, dill, spinach, thyme. Marigolds, coriander, onions, with which he gets along well, can act as defenders of pepper from aphids. And a plant like okra can be planted next to fragile pepper bushes to shelter them from the wind.

The company of tomatoes, peas, cabbage, beets, beans, carrots is contraindicated for pepper. It is highly undesirable and the neighborhood of a sibling - hot pepper. It will not interfere with the development and fruiting of the "Bulgarian", but the result of cross-pollination will be the loss of the crop, since sweet peppers can no longer be called such. You can decide what to plant next to pepper on the same bed, focusing on the lists of successful and unsuccessful neighbors.

Cabbage as the best neighbor for vegetables and herbs

There are many types of cabbage, they grow and bear fruit in different ways. But they have common problems with pests and diseases, so the problem with which cabbage can be planted in one garden is solved for all varieties in almost the same way. An excellent partner for cabbage is celery, gaining additional flavor and being stimulated to grow by the influence of cabbage. In turn, he drives away white butterflies and cruciferous fleas from the beds.

Neighborhood is useful for cabbage:

different types of onions
lettuce,
potato,
aromatic herbs (sage, dill, chamomile),
beans,
garlic.

Pleasant Cabbage Neighbors

Cabbage and tomatoes do not get along on the same bed. Strawberries are also not in favor with the "garden lady". But cabbage cabbage is still different. By placing cauliflower next to a white-headed sister, you can miss the calculation for the yield of colored heads: their tying in the vicinity of a white-headed beauty is significantly reduced.

Potatoes and useful crops for it

Growing "second bread" in a mixed culture is beneficial: it gets sick less, does not need crop rotation so much. Beans and spinach are good as potato neighbors in the garden. A remarkable result can be obtained if you plant bush beans in the aisles of potatoes - it repels the malicious pest, the Colorado potato beetle, enriches the soil with nitrogen. The malevolent beetle is also repelled by tansy, marigolds, coriander, and nasturtium.

Potatoes and beans in the garden

Potatoes also feel good in the company of radishes, corn, varieties of cabbage, salads. Favorable for him is the company of horseradish planted in the corners of a potato field, but the proximity of sunflower and quinoa is depressing. The combination of potatoes with celery is undesirable. Regarding the compatibility of potatoes and beets, peas and tomatoes, opinions are contradictory.

You have gained some insight into the benefits of co-planting garden crops. If you are fascinated by this idea, do not stop: study the characteristics of those plants that you plan to cultivate, consult experienced gardeners, consult specialists, and success will certainly come. Your favorite garden, sparkling with new colors, will delight you with its appearance and worthy harvests.

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What can you plant strawberries with?

home > Vegetable growing > Seedlings > Next to what you can plant strawberries

When planting each crop, its compatibility with other plants should be taken into account. And strawberries, she is garden strawberries, are no exception. And you need to know not only what and then you can grow. It’s also worth knowing what you can plant strawberries with and what you can’t. Only in this case it will be possible to get a rich and plentiful harvest.

What can you plant strawberries with?

By what principle are neighbors chosen for a strawberry garden

In order to understand what can be planted with strawberries, you need to find out in what conditions this berry grows best. For each garden crop, including strawberries, certain planting rules are valid. The first rule is that it is not recommended to plant nearby plants that require the same nutrients. They will not allow each other to grow and bear fruit normally. The second rule is not to plant in the neighborhood those crops that have different watering needs. Otherwise, one culture will lack water, and the second will die due to its excess.

The third rule of joint planting is that one crop should not obscure the other. This is allowed only if one of the plants is harmed by constant exposure to the sun. And the fourth rule is that the beds of those crops that have common diseases and pests are never planted next to each other. After all, then there will be no harvest either on one bed or on the other. Well, in the case of greenhouse cultivation, another factor is taken into account. For grown plants, the same conditions must be suitable - humidity, light and air temperature.

What do strawberries need to grow?

Strawberries need loose and soft soil rich in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. At the same time, she needs abundant watering and sufficient illumination. But in the southern regions it is harmful for her to constantly be in the light, so a shadow is also required. This berry is vulnerable to late blight, so plants that tolerate this fungus should not be planted next to it. And of the pests, strawberries most of all do not like wireworms and slugs. Based on these factors, neighbors for a given culture are selected.

Another thing to remember is that strawberries need to be replanted every three or four years. Moreover, in the same place, it will agree to grow no earlier than in three years. It is also recommended to follow the rules of crop rotation, and do not plant this berry after, for example, potatoes or cabbage. Only then, having chosen suitable neighbors for her, will it be possible to grow a beautiful and healthy garden bed. And get a really decent harvest of sweet and juicy berries.

Among root vegetables, parsley is best combined with strawberries. It should be planted between bushes in order to get rid of slugs and snails. These pests eat and spoil the crop, and in order to avoid this, parsley is planted next to the strawberry beds. Carrots are also combined with this berry, but they cannot be planted with parsley - either one or the other. But parsley or carrots go well with onions or garlic.

Together with strawberries, you can also plant beets, radishes or radishes. Those varieties are selected that will bear fruit simultaneously with garden strawberries. Moreover, you can plant radishes between the beds, but it is advisable to place radishes or beets at some distance from strawberries. And it is not recommended to combine them with each other, many varieties of these plants do not get along with each other. And it is worth remembering that the distance between the rows of strawberries should be 50-70 centimeters. This is necessary in order to fit other plants between them.

Strawberries have a deep root system http://regim2.ru/russia/arti

Crop rotation in the garden Proper alternation of vegetables

what vegetables after which you need to plant .. gardening tips

The worst of all root crops with strawberries is potatoes. It consumes the same substances that strawberries need and suffers from the same diseases. It is the potato that is the carrier of late blight, which harms the roots, leaves, and fruits of strawberries. This nightshade culture should not grow near strawberries, because otherwise there will be no harvest. A strawberry garden can die from late blight and lack of nutrients. Moreover, this can happen in 1.5-2 months.

The compatibility of strawberries with bulbous plants

Among such crops, this berry gets along best with garlic or onions. And among these plants it is worth highlighting garlic, which is worth planting for the prevention of late blight. After all, it is this culture that repels the fungus, which is the causative agent of this unpleasant disease. It is for this reason that garlic is recommended to be planted next to those varieties of strawberries that are vulnerable to late blight. Of the plants already mentioned, parsley is best combined with garlic.

Onions grow well next to strawberries, but only if the earth is not too depleted. Carrots go well with onions. These two plants repel each other's pests and have a beneficial effect on strawberry beds. But planting onions and garlic next to each other is strictly not recommended, these crops have the same pests and diseases. Therefore, they can not be called compatible plants.

The compatibility of strawberries with green crops

This berry goes well with sorrel, lettuce, spinach and other similar plants. Most of these crops do not impoverish the soil and are moderately unpretentious. And they also do not have pests in common with strawberries, which is why they are planted next to it. Depending on the planting scheme, these plants can also shade strawberries, which will not be out of place in the southern regions. Some gardeners write that green crops accelerate the growth of garden strawberries and increase yields. Here's what they say:

“If you plant lettuce or other similar greens next to the strawberry garden, then the strawberries grow faster. Her whiskers grow more actively, which is useful for vegetative propagation. And in remontant varieties, the yield increases. And at the same time, the bed does not require additional care, which is also nice.

Planting legumes next to strawberry beds

Some of the best neighbors for strawberries are various legumes. Beans, peas, lentils and their relatives favorably affect the soil and the resulting crop. Their roots make the soil loose and supply it with nitrogen, which strengthens the health of garden strawberries and allows you to collect more berries. At the same time, legumes can be grown in such a way that the strawberry beds are shaded. A weak and constant shadow will benefit the beds if strawberries are grown in the southern regions of the country.

Separately, it is worth mentioning such a plant as alkaloid lupine. It also belongs to legumes and is considered the most suitable green manure for strawberries. After all, it produces substances that are harmless to strawberries, but poisonous to the wireworm, and is the best remedy for this pest. At the same time, such a neighborhood does not affect the taste and edibility of the berries. But feeding animals with beveled alkaloid lupine is strictly not recommended, it is harmful to them.

With all the positive features of legumes, there are a number of restrictions on their planting. Due to the nitrogen produced, they increase the acidity of the soil, so it is recommended to use fertilizers that have an alkalizing effect. It is not difficult to check the acidity of the soil, for this there are simple kits with convenient and understandable instructions for use. Another feature of a number of leguminous plants is that some weeds grow more readily next to them. Therefore, it is necessary to clean the area from weeds carefully and carefully.

Crops with which strawberries do not go well

A number of gardeners claim that strawberries can be planted with almost any garden crop. To some extent, this is true - you can plant a strawberry garden next to a variety of plants. That's just not always she will be able to survive there, but to say nothing of giving a harvest. Therefore, you need to know those plants next to which this berry will not grow. Here is a list of these cultures:

nightshade crops
Plants from the clove family
Cabbage
Raspberry

Not only potatoes do not go well with strawberries and do not allow them to grow normally. All other cultivated plants from the nightshade family also do not combine with this berry. They deplete the soil, pulling out all the useful substances from it and draining the soil. And all these plants are vulnerable to late blight, which spreads from them to strawberries. As a result, the beds are dying, and the harvest cannot be obtained.

Strawberries also do not get along with clove plants. Separately, it is worth mentioning such crops as sunflower and Jerusalem artichoke. These plants destroy all their neighbors, including strawberries, and deplete the soil for a long time. Jerusalem artichoke is generally not recommended to grow in the garden, as this invasive plant can do more serious harm than any weed. Planting it near strawberries is not recommended in principle.

Advising what can be planted next to strawberries, some site owners recommend raspberries. And they do it in vain, because it is this plant that does not allow strawberries to grow stronger than others. Raspberries shade strawberry beds and dry out the soil, which is why strawberries do not bear fruit at all. Therefore, it is not worth planting them side by side, because garden strawberries will not endure such a neighborhood.

You should not plant strawberries next to cabbages. After all, cabbage consumes the same substances as strawberries, and in large quantities. And she also needs abundant and constant watering, and in larger quantities than is needed for strawberry beds. These two cultures do not combine in any way, therefore, they should not be planted together in the same area.

Conclusion

When planting strawberries, it is desirable to take into account not only those plants with which it is adjacent. We must remember the peculiarities of the local climate, fertilizers and watering. Don't forget about crop rotation either. Only in this case, the gardener will be able to count on the fact that he will have a strawberry crop.

author Nedyalkov S.F., photo of the author

Beginning gardeners very often ask me the question: do not closely planted different varieties of the same plant species in the garden (raspberries, strawberries, tulips, etc.) cross-pollinate? Gardeners are worried - will the variety be “lost” if other varieties of similar plants grow next to it?

The answer to this question is unequivocal - of course, because of this, the variety will not be “lost”! On the contrary, due to mutual pollination, the yield of fruit and berry plants of different varieties will increase significantly.

It is necessary to understand once and for all that plants such as raspberries, strawberries, tulips, and many other inhabitants of the garden reproduce vegetatively (layers, rosettes, bulbs). Conventionally, vegetative propagation can be called the division of a plant or the production of clones that are 100% identical to the parent specimens.

Another thing is if you propagate plants by seeds. In the seed fund, nature has laid down various options for the previous crossing. To make it easier to understand, look at your children: they are not 100% copies of their parents, because they are propagated by seed. The same happens with plants, because we are part of one World.

Seed propagation of plants is used mainly to obtain new varieties.

If a gardener complains that a plant suddenly had a “loss” of a variety, which resulted in a decrease in yield and chopping of fruits, then in fact this is the result of improper care or a consequence of plant damage by diseases (especially viral ones), or - natural aging of the plant .

"Loss" of varieties in raspberries and garden strawberries

I give a simple example: raspberries in one place bear fruit very well for 10 years. Then its productivity falls, as in this place there is an accumulation of pests, soil depletion (mainly due to a lack of trace elements), and a growing shortage of shoot nutrition area. If these shortcomings are eliminated, then raspberries can be grown in one place for much longer, since the recommendation of 10 years refers to production plantings (where plant care is much worse than in private gardens). For example, a well-groomed raspberry has been growing in one place for 17 years, and I still don’t notice the aging of its plantings.

The crushing of berries and the decrease in the yield of strawberries may be associated with the biological characteristics of the variety. There are varieties of strawberries that bear fruit well for many years and at the same time have large berries, each year they give a sufficient number of rosettes (for example, a variety Lord). And there are varieties that stop breeding in the third year (for example, varieties Marshmallow, Hummi Gento). But most often, the gardener, due to ignorance, lack of time and insufficient care, he himself “loses” valuable varietal characteristics of plants.

So, fertile sandy soils are most suitable for strawberries. Good and proper plant nutrition, watering as needed, loosening the soil contribute to the growth of a strong root system, and ultimately a high yield of strawberries for the next year. Dig up a two- or three-year-old strawberry bush and look at its root system: if the plant is poorly cared for, there are few young roots, they are short. What kind of harvest then can we talk about? Indeed, in strawberries, it is the one-year-old roots that nourish the plant most intensively, and the old roots turn into a “cork”. Therefore, it is necessary to focus not on the growth of the leaf mass (which happens with enhanced nitrogen fertilizing), but on the normal growth of the root system. The fertile layer of strawberry plantings should be at least 20 cm so that dead cork roots do not squeeze the plants out of the ground. Otherwise, where will they form young roots?

After fruiting, it is imperative to add fresh earth to the base of the strawberry bushes (it is even better if you add compost from rotted plant residues or humus). If it is not possible to do this, then grow strawberries in one place for only two years. In fact, garden strawberries are a very labor-intensive crop, and it is unforgivable to maintain them somehow. The decrease in yield and the "loss" of the strawberry variety can occur due to simple human laziness.

It is necessary to select the best bushes to remove rosettes from them for the propagation of strawberries. To obtain high-quality planting material for rosettes, it is imperative to have a mother liquor; on all mother plants, only flowers break off. Such strawberry queen cells can also be kept under trees (although they will have fewer outlets than in an open place, since they will get less sun and moisture).

If you are already acquiring new plants, then be sure to buy varietal strawberries. Very often in the market I hear: "Victoria" - instead of the correct name of the variety. Yes, there was once such a variety, but so long ago that it is unlikely that anyone has preserved it. You do not need to buy junk planting material from such a seller, which is usually very cheap. Varietal rosettes of strawberries cannot be "almost free" because they require painstaking care.

With a close planting of mother plants for reproduction, it is impossible for the rosettes of strawberries of different varieties to be confused with each other. After all, if different varieties grow together, then the variety that gives more rosettes will gradually replace the variety that reproduces vegetatively worse. In order not to lose a valuable strawberry variety, which gives fewer high-quality rosettes, it is necessary to plant a larger number of its mother bushes in a mother plantation.

For transplantation to a permanent place, I dig out all normally developed rosettes from the mother liquor. In a warmer climate, during the growing season, lateral, usually weaker rosettes are formed on the main lashes of strawberries. And, if such sockets are planted for a long time, then the strawberry variety gradually degenerates.

It should be taken into account that only a strong, healthy strawberry variety selected for large fruit and productivity is capable of producing stable yields for several years (unless, of course, there are such frosts in May, as it was in 1999-2000).

"Loss" of a variety in tulips

With the "loss" of a variety in tulips, crocuses and other bulbs, it is more difficult.

A decrease in flowering or a “loss” of a variety, for example, in a tulip, can occur not only from improper care, but also from plant damage by viral diseases. Of the pathogens, the most dangerous is the variegation virus. A typical sign of the manifestation of this disease is a change in the usual pattern on the flower petals and the appearance of stripes of a different color that is not inherent in this tulip variety. Novice flower growers, amateurs in this matter, are unknowingly very happy with the miraculous appearance of such unusual flowers in their garden. But this “miracle” will cost them dearly. If urgent measures are not taken, then the entire collection of tulips will perish.

In the world assortment of tulip groups there is a Rembrandt group, the varieties of which have variegated flower petals. If you buy their bulbs from a reliable Dutch company, then they do not have viruses: with the help of genetic engineering, the code of this virus in plants is disabled (the virus is present without showing itself in anything). But in the future, the grower is deprived of the opportunity to identify diseased plants in this group, since they outwardly do not differ from healthy ones. In addition, varieties of the Rembrandt group can also become infected with other types of viruses, but it is almost impossible to remember the previous pattern of variegated flower petals. Therefore, amateur growers should refrain from purchasing tulips from this group.

There is only one way to fight the variegation virus - to ruthlessly destroy all diseased plants so that the sucking insect carriers of the virus do not have the opportunity to infect healthy plants from diseased tulips. When cutting flowers, it is necessary to disinfect the knife after each plant (for example, in a 1% formalin solution or in a very strong solution of potassium permanganate).

Usually specimens infected with the variegation virus bloom later than the main mass of plants of this variety (provided that the planted bulbs are approximately the same size (parsing)). This fact is the first sign for visual inspection of a suspicious plant.

After a cool spring and early summer, there are fewer plants affected by the virus the following year, since the sap-sucking insects are less active in cool weather.

It is also possible to “lose” a variety due to the fact that some groups and varieties of tulips are unstable in a given climatic zone. Then, even if all the agrotechnical methods of their cultivation are maintained (annual digging, keeping the bulbs until planting at certain temperatures, planting at the most favorable time for the rooting of the bulbs, shelter for the winter, etc.), the plants will still gradually wither. Such unstable plants include some varieties of tulips from the groups Kaufman, Greig, Terry (varieties Stresa, Princess Charmant and etc.). In the descriptions of tulip varieties, there is data on the susceptibility of this variety to diseases (for example, it is written: “the variety is resistant to the variegation virus”). Before purchasing planting material, read the descriptions of the features of the varieties of interest.

The eastern and northern parts of Belarus are not entirely favorable for growing tulips, and a common mistake of flower growers is growing tulips without digging them up. In order not to “lose” the variety, tulips must be dug up every year; in extreme cases - in a year. The essence of digging bulbs is not only to divide their overgrown nest (lack of food area). But it also helps to adapt the bulbs to our climate, "adding" heat to them for full development (after all, the temperature in the soil is always lower than in the air). In cold years, in the soil, at the depth of the bulbs, there is insufficient temperature to go through the entire cycle of plant development. In this case, when growing tulips without digging up bulbs, next year a significant number of non-flowering plants will be observed among them. If this situation is repeated often, then due to the chopping of the bulbs (lack of nutritional area and space for growth) and the incomplete development cycle, the plants degrade, the variety is “lost”.

During drying and storage of tulip bulbs, the temperature should not be raised above +34 degrees, and bulbs should not be kept at temperatures below +17 degrees for a long time. The most optimal storage temperature is + 20 ... + 22 degrees. To prevent the bulbs from becoming moldy, they must be well ventilated until planting.

The optimal time for planting tulips is when the soil temperature drops to + 9-12 degrees (approximately from September 15 to October 15 - depending on the geographical latitude and weather). So, in the Vitebsk and Mogilev regions of Belarus, you need to hurry up with planting tulip bulbs.

Subject to the terms of planting the bulbs and their normal rooting, tulips are quite winter-hardy, and you can limit yourself to mulching them (cover the planting site with rotten sawdust, peat or compost with a layer of 2–3 cm). Do not cover plantings with tulips, crocuses and other bulbs for the winter with straw or leaves, otherwise mice will eat the bulbs.

Nedyalkov Stefan Fedorovich (Novopolotsk, Republic of Belarus)
[email protected]

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