Summer pruning of faded roses. Pruning garden roses: when and how to prune the bushes? It is necessary to cut in the direction from the kidney and at an angle

If you have started growing roses, be prepared for such an important procedure as pruning after flowering. Thanks to her, plants develop and bloom better. And so that the procedure goes smoothly, we will share with you a few tricks.

Pruning roses allows you to rejuvenate the plant, strengthen its root system, improve metabolism and thereby start abundant flowering. In addition, after such a procedure, the bush acquires an aesthetic appearance and better tolerates winter frosts. Plants that have been pruned have increased resistance to diseases and pests.

In order for all of the above to come true, you need to properly trim. If this is your first time doing this, don't be afraid to make a mistake. Of course, not everything can work out right away, but over time, you yourself will teach beginners. It remains only to arm yourself with quality tools and information about the needs of the plants to be pruned!

Rose pruning tools

Before you start trimming, prepare all the necessary tools. Remember that they must be clean, sharp and dry in order for the roses to remain healthy after the procedure. Be sure to wear thick gloves to protect your hands from thorns. For a large bush, choose long sleeves and tight pants. As for the inventory itself, you will need:

bypass secateurs - for live and dry thin shoots;
pruner with anvil - only for dry branches;
lopper or garden saw - for thick live shoots.

You may also need knee pads to keep your clothes from getting dirty while trimming thick dead shoots, and a small rake to clean up dead leaves.

Rose pruning rules

You can start pruning in August or September. The day is better to choose sunny and calm. The main goal is to remove faded buds, weak, diseased and fattening shoots. It is also worth thinning the center of the bush so that more light and air get into it, and cut some of the healthy shoots into cuttings for subsequent propagation.

Remove faded roses immediately, without waiting for the petals to fall. So the bush will save strength for flowering. Moreover, in large-flowered roses, a stem with a flower, incomplete leaves and 1-2 five-fold leaves is cut off. And in many-flowered ones, the entire inflorescence is completely above the first leaf.

It is important to make the right cuts, which will allow the plant to recover faster. The cut and its edges should be even and smooth. The angle of inclination is 45 degrees, the indentation from the kidney upwards is approximately 5 mm. Dead shoots need to be cut off until the shoot inside turns white. Also remove all thin shoots and shoots, they only prevent the bush from gaining strength for flowering. The correct cut option is shown in the diagram below.

Weak shoots cut strongly, large - with less effort. And do not be afraid to cut off the excess, the plant will quickly recover!

Treat large sections with disinfectants (for example, RanNet paste, BlagoSad putty), garden pitch or charcoal to prevent infection. Small sections up to 5 mm in length will quickly tighten themselves, so you can not coat them with anything. Cut off shoots and leaves around the bush must be removed to prevent decay.

Now consider the rules for pruning popular groups of roses.

If each shoot is crowned with a glass, this is a tea-hybrid rose. It usually blooms on current year's cuttings and needs to be carefully pruned into a ball shape.

Feel free to cut strong branches in half, thin ones higher, by 2-3 internodes or one third of the length of the shoot. Also remember to remove or shorten weak shoots that grow inside the bush.

Floribunda roses are characterized by abundant and slow flowering. They are more unpretentious than hybrid tea roses, although they are obtained by crossing the latter with polyanthus varieties.

Before pruning, the bush should completely fade. Then carefully cut off the faded inflorescences. Shorten thick shoots by half, leaving 3-5 buds, and young ones by one third, so that up to 10 buds remain. This will allow the plant not to deplete too much after pruning. Cut out the old shoots in the middle of the bush completely.

If you do not prune the floribunda, then the bush will grow with weak stems and small flowers.

Shrubs are universal, and are used for both vertical and horizontal gardening. Their feature: flower buds are mainly located on the top of the shoot.

Depending on the variety, pruning may vary, so in the process you will have to rely a little on intuition in order to maintain the natural shape of the bush. On the whole bush, leave 3-5 of the strongest shoots, and on them - 6-8 developed buds. Shorten the shoots by one quarter or one third, dry - completely. Evenly spaced healthy shoots leave intact. Also prune the thin, watery stems so they don't freeze during a frost.

The stem does not need to be cut. For thinning, you can use the same technology as for spray roses (scrubs).

Ground cover roses differ from their relatives in their creeping shoots along the ground, which look great along paths and in the foreground of flower beds.

In autumn, plants also need pruning. Weak and diseased branches, old shoots are subject to removal. Strong shoots need to be shortened a little. Lateral branches on which there was flowering - cut into 2-3 buds. Also remove any side stems that deprive the rose of decorativeness.

There should be no crossing shoots in the center of the bush. If they are, they will also have to be cut.

Climbing, or climbing, roses require regular pruning. They bloom in their second year, so no pruning is done in their first year. In flowering plants in late August or early September, cut off all diseased shoots, and shorten those that bloomed by 3 buds. Cut old branches strongly, leaving 30 cm from the level of the root collar.

There are 2 types of climbing roses: ramblers and climbers (climings), the pruning of which has some differences.

Ramblers have thin and flexible shoots, like grapes. The plant blooms on the last year's shoots in a scattering of small flowers.

After flowering, cut the shoots with buds completely, and pinch the unripe ones. Pruning very carefully, otherwise the plant may no longer bloom. There are types of ramblers:

blooming once: when pruning, 6-10 strong shoots are left, 3-5 annual and biennial shoots each; the timing of the main pruning - the end of summer;
re-blooming: when pruning, 1-3 annual and 3-7 biennial shoots are left; the main pruning is carried out in the spring.

Climbers are hybrids of ramblers with other varieties of roses. Plants differ in thicker shoots and large flowers.

Climbers are re-blooming roses and tolerate pruning well. It is better to tie up young specimens so that they have time to grow shoots. And a few years after planting, faded climbers are pruned. At the same time, the shoots are cut by a third, sometimes even by a quarter, removing only the very top. If there are old shoots, then only one, the most dilapidated, is completely removed.

Polyanthus roses are compact and highly branched shrubs with paniculate inflorescences.

They bloom until late autumn, so they are usually cut in the spring, shortening strong shoots by one third, as shown in the diagram. But in the presence of damaged and diseased branches, it is better to get rid of them right now! Also remove thickening shoots from the center to enhance the flowering of the bush. In total, after pruning, 7-8 strong main branches should remain.

Rose seedlings in containers and open ground do not need pruning.

Now you know how to properly prune your favorite roses. Only regular care will allow the plants to show themselves in all their glory, so pick up a pruner and get to work!

In growing roses, one of the main secrets is competent pruning. How to do this, how the procedure differs in spring, autumn and as it blooms, as well as everything else you need to know for the proper formation and development of roses, is described in this review.

When is the best time to prune roses?

The question of when exactly you need to prune roses arises for beginner flower growers in the first place. The answer to it is determined by several factors, in particular, the type of plant, its age, climate zone and growing conditions (greenhouse or open field), as well as the result that is expected to be achieved.

However, the correct pruning of roses should be carried out twice a year - in spring and autumn, and, contrary to the existing misconception, the most important and responsible procedure is carried out at the beginning of the season, and not at its end.

After winter, almost all types of roses should be sanitized. Its goal, first of all, is to remove all old, dried and frozen stems, which will not only provide the bush with a healthy and beautiful appearance, but also stimulate the formation of a large number of young shoots, on which new buds will be laid.

In addition, at this time, you need to get rid of the active shoots at the base of the plant, which will divert its vital juices and prevent active flowering. Also, the purpose of spring pruning is to give the bush a beautiful and neat shape.

The procedure is carried out when the frosts have already completely receded, the rose has woken up, but new shoots from swollen buds have not yet begun to grow. Depending on the climatic zone and weather conditions, this period may fall at the end of March - the first decade of April.

Did you know? The easiest way to determine the right moment for pruning rose bushes is to focus on forsythia, a ubiquitous shrub of the Olive family, covered in spring with abundant bright yellow flowers. It is the appearance of these flowers that is the signal for working with a rose.

Autumn pruning has a completely different purpose.

During this period, the task of the grower is to prepare the plant for wintering as much as possible, namely:

make the bush more compact so that it is more convenient to cover it (for this, all shoots are usually shortened to the same length);
get rid of excessive thickening of the stems, which will limit the lighting of the bush;
remove all diseased, damaged, dried up, as well as shoots that have not had time to form (the latter, in conditions of high humidity in autumn, winter during a thaw, and also next spring, are likely to begin to rot under cover).

Video: autumn pruning of a ground cover rose and sheltering it for the winter

All bushes should be pruned in the fall, regardless of age. An exception can only be those varieties that, due to their high winter hardiness, survive the winter without shelter (the above, however, applies only to regions where frosts are not too severe).

As for the time for pruning, it should be determined, focusing on the first drop in nighttime temperatures to negative values.

Important! If you prune a rose before the first frost, the plant will respond to the procedure as a stimulus to form new shoots, so the event will lead to a result that is exactly the opposite of what was expected.

In addition to the two types of pruning mentioned, there is another type of pruning - summer. As a rule, it concerns flowering roses, but in some cases it is useful to cut the bushes even at the budding stage. At this stage, the plant is freed from the weakest shoots, which were formed later than others, lag behind in development and take away extra strength from the bush. In addition, if you want to get large flowers, you must also remove all the buds on each shoot, except for one, the largest. A bush cut before flowering always looks more well-groomed and neat.

Video: summer pruning of rose bushes

As for dried flowers, they must also be removed immediately, and pruning is not limited to a dried bud, but concerns the entire shoot at the level of one bud from the ground. Such a procedure not only deprives the plant of an untidy appearance, but also stimulates the development of new stems and the laying of new buds (for some types of roses - this year, for others - the next). Dry flowers left on the bush shade it, thereby slowing down growth and development, so experienced flower growers thin out the plant by at least two-thirds by the end of summer.

Tools for the job

For the procedure, you will need the following tools and materials:

secateurs (it is better to use a tool with two cutting edges: it is a little more difficult to use, but it remains sharp much longer);
emery electric or other tool for sharpening secateurs (if necessary);
pruning saw, pruning knife, long-handled pruning shears or delimber for cutting thick stems;
thick gloves;
knee pad;
alcohol or potassium permanganate for disinfection of garden tools;
garden var or Novikov liquid for cutting sections;
copper sulfate 1% for subsequent processing of the entire bush.

How to prune a rose

In addition to the time of year, pruning roses has some features depending on the type and morphological characteristics of the plant.

There are several different approaches to the classification of this noble flower, however, in terms of the approach to its formation, it is important to distinguish between these types of roses:

bush, or scrubs (Shrub);
hybrid tea (Hybrid Tea);
ground cover (Bodendecker);
standard (Shtambe);
climbing (Climbing roses).

Consider the nuances of pruning each of these plant varieties.

Bush

A spray rose should be cut in such a way that it leaves from three to five of the most developed shoots 10–20 cm long (3–4 buds each). All other stems are cut off completely, at ground level, or, as gardeners say, "on the ring." When choosing a stem that will be left, preference is given to younger ones (they are easy to distinguish by lighter bark) and located in such a way that after pruning they do not interfere or obscure each other.

Important! The weaker the bush, the stronger it needs to be cut: this procedure does not harm the plant, but, on the contrary, strengthens its immunity, including in terms of resisting diseases and pests. On the contrary, insufficient thinning of the bush provokes the formation of a large number of small and weak shoots.

Always need to remove:

dry wood (young shoots do not grow from it, while it occupies the place from which they could appear);
stems directed towards the center of the bush and intersecting with others;
branches are dark brown;
shoots that appear below the level of the first kidney.

Hybrid Tea

This category of roses is the most popular among gardeners due to large beautiful flowers and a long, almost uninterrupted flowering period. The purpose of pruning such plants is primarily to form a large spherical bush and stimulate the development of powerful basal shoots. At the same time, it is important to know that the buds of hybrid tea roses are laid on young shoots, so the old ones can be safely removed, and the bloomed ones can be shortened.

Did you know? The first hybrid tea rose is La France, bred in 1867 by the French breeder Jean-Baptiste André Guyot, who managed to cross tea and remontant roses. At the same time, two more varieties claim the same title - "Cheshunt Hybrid" and "Madame Lacharme", bred five years later.

Pruning of hybrid tea roses is carried out as follows:

Before planting a seedling (it is best to do this in autumn), its stems are shortened and the longest, diseased, damaged roots are cut.
After wintering, at a young bush, all shoots are leveled at a height of 15 cm (five to six eyes should remain on the stems).
In autumn, before sheltering, the rose is freed from all dry shoots that have not had time to form buds, all others are shortened by a third.
In subsequent years, in the spring, the rose is cut off at the level of 20-25 cm or 5-6 buds, as the shoots form, the ones growing inward and intersecting are removed, and in the fall the old and unripe stems are removed, and the rest are shortened.

Video: correct pruning of hybrid tea roses

The boundary position between hybrid tea and polyanthus roses is occupied by the so-called floribundas. These roses do not need to be cut as drastically as hybrid tea roses. So, in the spring, it is enough to shorten the last year's shoots by a third, and cut off all the older stems by about two-thirds of their height.

ground covers

Ground cover roses are a very special class of hybrid plants that are able to spread along the ground, covering fairly large areas with a bright and fragrant carpet. Despite the fact that it would seem that it is not necessary to form such a bush, contrary to the existing misconception, it needs pruning no less than other varieties of a noble flower.

This procedure has its own characteristics, namely:

Before planting, long and diseased roots, as well as damaged and weakened shoots, are removed from the bush.
After the rose has bloomed for the first time, it is necessary to cut off all the branches on which the flowers were formed, that is, in fact, radically cut the bush, leaving only the young shoots of the current year on it. But even they should be carefully evaluated by removing the weakest ones and shortening all others to a height of 10-15 cm (2-3 eyes).
In the spring, a small sanitary pruning is carried out with the removal of interfering and frozen shoots.
Branches pointing upwards, and not creeping towards the ground like a fountain, should be cut off.
In the autumn of the second and subsequent years of the year, only half of the faded shoots are completely cut off, the rest are shortened to 2-3 eyes. The middle of the bush is thinned out so that the branches do not cross each other.

Some flower growers practice a slightly different approach to pruning ground cover roses, carrying out the above-mentioned procedure for drastically shortening the bush not every fall, but only once every five or six years. But even these experts agree that periodic pruning is necessary for the plant, otherwise it will simply stop flowering.

Standard

A standard rose is a noble variety or a hybrid grafted onto a specially formed straight trunk (stem) of a wild rose, or wild rose. Since grafting is usually done at a height of between half a meter and two meters, the result is a plant that is a lush bush, towering over a thin stem. Such an unusual structure requires a very special approach to shaping and pruning.

Did you know? If you use a ground cover or climbing mushroom as a scion, you can get a very unusual and beautiful “weeping” rose.

In spring, dead shoots are removed from an annual plant, and all others are shortened at a level of 15 cm from the base (grafting site) so that 3–5 eyes remain on each branch.

Before wintering, dried, damaged shoots that did not have time to bloom are removed from the bush, and those that bloomed are shortened.

In subsequent years, spring pruning involves the removal of old, intersecting and interfering branches, all others are formed as follows: adult side branches are cut at a height of 10 cm (2–4 eyes), young ones at a height of 15 cm (3–5 eyes). Especially carefully you need to ensure that the middle of the bush is not very thickened. In autumn, after flowering, standard sanitary pruning is performed.

An obligatory element of pruning standard roses is the removal of all shoots and shoots that appear below the grafting site (wild rose hips will grow from it).

Climbing

Many amateur flower growers answer the question of whether climbing roses should be cut off in the negative. However, in reality this is not the case. If the liana is allowed to develop "at its own discretion", in a few years it will turn into a huge and untidy green massif, which will even be difficult to approach.

Some difficulties in studying the peculiarity of pruning climbing roses are that this category of plants is very heterogeneous in its composition. Lianas include roses that are radically different from each other according to various criteria, including the nature of flowering. It is these differences that determine the method of cropping.

There are several different classifications of climbing roses according to the method of their formation, but the simplest is the division of plants into once and repeatedly flowering. Consider the features of trimming each of these types.

once blooming

This category of creeper is characterized by the fact that its flowers are formed on the shoots of the previous year. Based on this, it is necessary to leave six to ten shoots on the bushes, carefully making sure that half of them fall on two-year-old stems (they will form buds), while the second half is a “bookmark” for the next year.

In September, when the rose has faded, all the stems on which the flowers formed are cut off, since they will no longer bloom.

Video: pruning once blooming climbing roses

re-blooming

A distinctive feature of these vines is that on the same shoot, flowers bloom for several years in a row, and several “tiers” of branches can depart from the main stem, on each of which, sometimes up to the fifth, flowers appear from year to year . Such a rose does not need to be prevented from revealing its full “potential” by the annual removal of flowering shoots, it is enough to carry out such a renewal procedure only after the fourth year, since further flowering on the old stem gradually begins to lose intensity.

If the main work on the formation of once-blooming roses is carried out in the summer, then for re-blooming roses, the most important time of the year is spring. During this period, it is necessary to carefully evaluate the bush and form it in such a way that the number of shoots suitable for flowering this year is from three to seven. Their gradual replacement should be provided by two or three young annual stems, all other emerging shoots can be removed.

Important! In order not to remember how many years this or that branch has bloomed, there is a simple rule: in a climbing rose, the number of old shoots removed must always correspond to the number of young lashes that have appeared at the base of the plant. The same method is used when there is doubt about which variety a particular rose belongs to.

The rules of forming pruning described above do not cancel the sanitary procedures to remove old and interfering branches, as well as dried flowers.

General rules for pruning roses

Regardless of what time of the year and for which category of roses pruning is carried out, the following standard set of rules must be followed in the process of work:

Pruning roses is a troublesome procedure, but absolutely necessary. Not only the appearance of the bush, but also the speed of its growth and the intensity of flowering directly depend on the regularity and correctness of its implementation. There is no need to feel sorry for the plant: pruning does not weaken it, but, on the contrary, makes it healthier and stronger.

Pruning is an essential part of garden and home rose care. Depending on the purpose, it can be rejuvenating, sanitary, shaping. To give the plant high decorative performance, it is pruning roses in the summer that is important, and many gardeners neglect it. Such work is carried out not only after flowering.

Types of pruning and their purpose

If roses are not pruned for a long period, they quickly lose their attractiveness. The aerial part of the plants dies off in just a few years, and numerous shoots begin to appear from the buds at the base. If for wild specimens it is enough to cut off old and dried shoots so that they come to life again, then this is not enough for cultivated varieties. Almost all types of roses aged 3-5 years are subjected to annual pruning..

In order for roses to delight with their beauty all summer, they need constant monitoring.

Depending on the purpose, there are several trimming options:

sanitary;
formative;
rejuvenating.

What pruning does:

Extends the life of the bush. If you do not resort to anti-aging pruning for 2-3 years, the plant becomes untidy and subsequently dries out.
Promotes abundant and beautiful flowering. This is possible provided that the plant receives proper nutrition, and thinned, damaged and old shoots prevent this. In addition, they create a thickening of the bush, which provokes the development of fungal and infectious diseases. In such a case, sanitary pruning is applied, which should be carried out in August.
Stimulates roses to re-bloom after a short period of time. This is the main function of summer pruning after the first flowering wave. Carry out the procedure in cloudy weather.
To form a beautiful crown at the bush. On young ones obtained by budding (grafting with a kidney), shoots are pinched over the fourth leaf during the summer. Due to this, lateral branching is enhanced and more buds are formed in the future.

Pruning roses after flowering in summer is especially necessary for standard and large-flowered hybrids. It is worth noting that there are varieties that are able to bloom once during the summer season and even pruning will not move them to more. These include some varieties of climbing roses, which are not so many. Therefore, only wilted buds are removed from them.

In the summer of grafted roses, it is necessary to cut off the wild shoots that form on the rootstock. This usually happens after frosty winters. If this procedure is neglected, then the wild birds begin to take most of the nutrients from the plant and, as a result, simply “clog” it. It is recommended to break off such processes (just do not cut them off) immediately, otherwise they will grow back. And the shoots stretching from the base are cut off at the very root neck, having previously cleared it of the ground. If the cut is higher, then the wildlings will again begin to grow.

If the shoots grafted to the wild rose are not removed in time, then it will soon clog the bush

If roses do not bloom for a long time despite appropriate care, the reason for this is "blind" shoots. They differ from normal ones in the absence of a growth eye or fresh growth. They have only an underdeveloped kidney. The reason for this may be a lack of lighting or an unfortunate neighborhood with other decorative cultures. If you remove an empty node, then the shoots are activated.

Degrees of cropping

Gardeners conditionally divide pruning into several degrees:

Strong - apply to excessively thickened bushes at the level of the 3-4th living bud from the bottom. Leave shoots no longer than 15 cm long.
Moderate - carried out for recently planted plants, with the exception of adult specimens of hybrid tea roses. The stems are cut somewhere above the 5-7 eye, and the side shoots are shortened by half. In this way, all varieties of roses are pruned after the first flowering.
Easy - this is a kind of adjustment of the bush with cutting the stems by 2/3 of the total length at the level of 8–12 buds. It is undesirable to resort to such a procedure often, which causes thickening of plantings, deterioration of flowering and thinning of shoots.

There are several degrees of pruning: short, medium and high

When choosing the option of pruning a rose after flowering, they are guided by its age, dimensions, growth rate and variety. At the end of the summer season, you can not make a strong "haircut" so as not to cause intensive growth of young shoots on the eve of winter.

How to properly trim

First of all, prepare a garden tool:

secateurs with one and two blades (respectively, for thin and thick shoots);
garden shears for thinning heavily thickened bushes;
mini-saw for working with lignified branches and stumps;

They must be sharp and clean, otherwise the plants will inevitably become infected with some kind of infection. To disinfect the instrument, you can use a manganese solution or copper sulfate.

Cut roses with gloves so as not to injure your hands.

The algorithm for performing the procedure is the same:

They clean the soil under the bush and assess the condition of the plant.
Cut wild root shoots, which differ from cultivated shoots in a light green color.
Pruning is carried out to the required degree: improperly growing and extra branches are removed, shortened or pinched lateral shoots.
Treat slices with garden pitch.

Start pruning immediately after the first flowering. An even cut is made above the growth buds at an angle of 45 ° with an indent of 1 cm. They are located in the axils of the leaves and are clearly visible after the foliage has fallen. This technique allows you to accelerate the second wave of flowering. If the pruning is done too high, then the stem quickly shrinks and dies. An incorrectly chosen cut angle contributes to the decay of the kidney from moisture accumulating in it.

Incorrect pruning can lead to the death of the plant

Inexperienced gardeners often pick only faded rosebuds and pinch the pedicels, as they do with tulips and daffodils. Such actions are unacceptable, as they weaken the stems. As a result, flowers appear, but do not last long.

After the second flowering, only inflorescences are removed at the level of the nearby cinquefoil.

Video: pruning roses after flowering

Pruning schemes depending on the type of roses

For greater clarity, it is worth considering visual schemes for pruning various varieties of roses:

In multi-flowered (shrab, floribunda, climbing climbers) roses, the entire brush with inflorescences is cut off above the first cinquefoil. Do this immediately after flowering is completed.
It will be wrong to cut only the buds
Hybrid tea specimens that produce only one flower at the top of the stem are pruned differently. At the beginning of summer, the trunk is cut off to 3-4 leaves, counted from the base. And from mid-July to the end of August, only wilted buds are removed.
Such bushes are usually given a spherical shape, for which a strong degree of pruning is used.
Polyanthus roses, like miniature ones, need high pruning in the first year of life. And you should also remove weakened shoots and shorten the developed ones by a third.
It is better to cut off all underdeveloped growths so that the growth of new shoots begins.
Pruning climbing roses involves cutting off lignified trunks to the base. Of the young branches, only healthy and tall ones are left, on which flowering will occur next season. If there are few such shoots, then the old stems are partially left, shortened to 35–40 cm.
Powerful lashes are cut to such a height that is necessary to create a certain shape for the bush
In standard varieties, dried and damaged shoots are pruned, and the remaining ones are pruned in such a way that 5–6 living internodes remain on them.
Standard roses are obtained by grafting onto wild rose and require pruning of varying degrees of complexity, depending on the age of the plants.
Park roses require only rejuvenating pruning to maintain their decorative appearance and stimulate the growth of new shoots. Cut off damaged stems and those that grow in the wrong direction. The rest of the tops are slightly trimmed.
In order for cut roses to remain fresh for a long time in a bouquet, certain rules must be followed.
A few professional tips for cutting roses in the summer:
- The stem is cut at the base above a live bud turned outward. At the same time, 2–3 internodes are left on the stump. Then you can hope for re-blooming this season.
- Do not cut flowers from one-year-old bushes, as well as underdeveloped and disease-affected plants.
A rose bush will remain in a flowering state for a long time, if only wilted buds are removed in a timely manner, without touching others. Roses planted last season require a special approach. They are not allowed to fully bloom for the first time - the buds that have not yet opened are immediately removed, leaving no more than 2-3 pieces. In this case, flowering shoots should alternate with empty ones. Only then will the plant evenly receive nutrients, which is important for the proper development of the bush.

Indoor roses are so popular that they have begun to be perceived as a kind of seasonal decoration or a festive accent. Many flower growers simply throw away the rose after flowering, although even in a potted format it remains a full-fledged shrub and can delight us for many years. In addition to a cool wintering, roses need only the right care to re-bloom. The key factor is the correct pruning, which is almost no different from pruning garden princesses.

Indoor roses cannot be called difficult plants to grow. Just for them you need to carefully select the temperature regimes and responsibly approach the care. If you surround roses with care, they will bloom relentlessly and almost constantly.

For indoor roses, watering, fertilizing, access to fresh air, and frequent inspections are important. But if all other basic care items are “responsible” for the health and strength of plants, then one of the procedures is the key to its abundant and continuous flowering.

Pruning is the main secret of the luxurious flowering of potted roses. In this, miniature copies of garden charms (which are indoor roses) are no different from any other varietal roses.

For indoor roses, three types of pruning are necessary:

Regular, annual pruning for shaping and flowering.
Regulatory pruning to deal with weak or out-of-bounds shoots.
Seasonal pruning, which boils down to the removal of fading parts of the plant.

Without exception, all indoor roses, regardless of their origin and class, perfectly tolerate even the strongest pruning and allow shaping. And miniature, and floribunda, and Chinese varieties are pruned according to general rules..

In pruning indoor roses, it is very important to comply with all sanitary and hygienic standards:

use only sharp tools, and best of all - special secateurs for trimming shrubs;
make sure that the tools are clean and treat the work surfaces with disinfectants;
all cuts should be immediately treated with protective equipment.

No matter what kind of pruning on roses we are talking about, even in a room format, cuts must be done correctly, carefully checking the location of the buds. For indoor roses, pruning is carried out only above the buds, as close as possible, but still leaving a part of the trunk about 0.5 cm long to eliminate the risk of damage to the bud itself. Damaged shoots are cut to healthy tissue. The cut is made only at an angle, from the kidney.

Basic pruning of indoor roses

Indoor roses are pruned to stimulate the bushes to thicken and bloom as abundantly as possible according to the same principles and rules as any other cultivated spray roses, including garden ones. Cutting back all old shoots to encourage new growth is the main task. Without pruning, it is impossible to stimulate the growth of strong, healthy and high-quality young shoots: indoor queens bloom on the shoots of the current year, and without pruning, flowering will be very poor.

Basic pruning of indoor beauties is carried out after a period of rest and before the start of active growth. Roses are usually pruned in February or early March. But it is best to focus on a much more obvious sign - swelling of the kidneys. They should not wake up, begin to develop, but only “peep” so that it is easy to recognize future growth points. The length of daylight hours at the time of pruning should already exceed 10 hours.

For indoor roses, both late and early pruning are equally dangerous:

if pruning is carried out ahead of time, during a short daylight hours, then new shoots will develop too weakly, and both foliage and flowering will suffer;
if pruning is carried out late, when growth has already begun to develop from the buds, then as a result of a cardinal haircut, growth will stop, the plant will spend energy on adaptation, and all development before pruning will be “waste” and deplete the plant.

They begin the main pruning not with a general regulatory pruning, but with a mandatory sanitary cleaning. This procedure is typical for all shrubs in both garden and room culture:

First of all, all damaged, dry shoots are removed. Pruning is carried out to healthy tissues. If it makes no sense to save the rest of the shoot (for example, if there are no buds on it), then they are cut to the ground.
All weak, elongated, thinned shoots are cut to the base.
The bushes are carefully examined and the branches are cut to the base, thickening the crown and growing inside the bushes. During trimming, you also need to remove:
- strongly twisted shoots;
- twigs without an upper central bud (plug);
- one of any intersecting shoots and extra branches growing from one bud.

If pruning was carried out after flowering, then before the main pruning, previously missed or new problem areas are cut out, and control is carried out.

The most reliable rule that allows you to always prune a rose correctly is to cut all the shoots to half their length. If you do not have experience growing roses in room culture or you are afraid of pruning, then use this pruning principle. This is the most reliable option for pruning indoor roses.

If pruning does not scare you, and you can easily navigate the plant itself, you can “count” the buds well and adjust the pruning individually on each bush, then it is better to use a less universal, but also more productive strategy. All shoots of a room rose are shortened, leaving at least 3 high-quality buds on them (the optimal number is 4-5 buds). The degree of pruning is determined depending on the desired compactness and shape of the bush, the condition of the plant, the thickness and height of the shoots. Small-flowered roses like lower pruning than large-flowered ones, weak-growing shoots are cut into three buds, and up to 5-6 buds can be left on powerful ones. On any bush, it is imperative to leave 4-5 strong skeletal shoots each (they are usually shortened to 3-5 buds, leaving a base 10-15 cm high).

The formation of a rose can be carried out as desired. When pruning roses, you can set a strict, almost topiary shape of a ball or cone, you can limit the height or make the bushes “flat”. Different types of roses are more "inclined" to their specific shape. So, floribundas and Chinese (Bengal) indoor roses are formed at will, miniature roses are more often grown in a spherical, conical or elliptical form. If the rose was bought with a certain shape of the bush, then with regular pruning, it is supported and the shoots that break out are shortened. If they want to set a new shape for a room rose, then it is better to carry out the formation gradually and stretch it out for several years, cutting off only part of the shoots every year and giving the plant time to qualitatively thicken the crown and restore.

In addition to the main pruning, roses should be monitored throughout the rest of the year. If some shoots grow unproductively, are too weak or thin, stretch out, stand “naked”, it is better to remove them immediately.

Care after the main pruning

Roses that have undergone the basic pruning procedure should not be immediately exposed to the sun and heat. Before the appearance of leaves, cropped indoor beauties are best kept in a room with a cool temperature of about 10-11 degrees and in diffused lighting. In bright light and at room temperature, they can be rearranged only after the appearance of the first leaves.

Watering after pruning for indoor roses should be very careful. Waterlogging at this stage is a very big threat, and the complete drying of the substrate may not allow the plant to release full-fledged strong branches. Top dressing is not resumed until the roses begin to actively develop. It is worth paying attention to air humidity: high humidity in the first weeks after pruning increases the risk of the spread of diseases and damage to indoor roses by fungal infections.

Additional and seasonal treatments

Proper pruning for indoor roses starts at the flowering stage. As with garden beauties, fruiting in indoor roses negatively affects the duration of flowering and its characteristics. Bushes must be regularly inspected and constantly remove fading flowers from the plant. Such a “cleansing” will not only prolong flowering, but will also give you the opportunity to admire the flawless bushes in pots, which are far from being decorated with the appearance of withering petals.

The main seasonal procedures during flowering:

1. As soon as the flowers wither on the rose, all faded parts of the shoots are shortened to the first full leaf (pentifolia) or to the first full-fledged bud looking outward. Pruning above the bud is carried out according to the same rules as the main pruning on indoor roses.

2. If you want to achieve constant flowering from a rose, after the flower is fully opened, you can cut the stem to the fifth bud, thereby stimulating the growth of new shoots and buds. Each new shoot during the entire growing period is shortened in the same way as with the main pruning. This option is time-consuming and does not always bring the desired result, in the conditions of reduced daylight hours, the rose will still stop flowering, so it is better to simply remove faded inflorescences in the usual way and not combine pruning and flowering.

3. As part of the additional measures, do not forget to remove dry or damaged parts. Dry or beginning to dry out leaves or twigs are also better to cut off without waiting for spring sanitation.

The last pruning of faded inflorescences is best supplemented with sanitary cleaning - the removal of damaged, weak, dry, unproductive or thickening shoots. By thinning and leaving only strong healthy branches for the winter, they reduce the risk of the spread of diseases and pests. It is not necessary to carry out sanitary pruning after flowering; it can be quite combined with the main one. And in this matter it is better to focus on your preferences and capabilities.