The annual miracle of spring gardens blooming will never cease to amaze and enchant people. The first of garden trees Apricot blossoms. It opens its buds when there is no real warmth yet and there is a threat of night frosts. Main task gardener during this period - delay flowering or protect the flowering tree from exposure to low temperatures in order to ensure future harvest.
How does apricot bloom?
Listen to the symphony of spring.
Andrey Dementyev
Enter the garden
When it blooms...
After admiring the beauty blossoming apricot, the gardener will certainly return his thoughts and deeds to his daily worries, because in the spring there are a lot of them. Unless a beginner in this field begins to examine in detail the structure of an apricot flower on a branch that is still bare and without leaves. The white or pinkish apricot flower is quite large, you can see all its elements while enjoying the pleasant aroma.
The apricot flower is quite large, so you can easily see all its elements
The flower is located on a small calyx, consisting of sepals fused at the bottom. Five rounded petals make up a flower corolla, reaching 20–30 mm in diameter. The male part of the flower has 25–45 stamens arranged in several rows. Each of them consists of a translucent white filament and a yellow anther on which pollen develops.
The female part (pistil) is located in the very center of the flower. The white, slightly pubescent stigma is capable of retaining pollen that has fallen on it, which then germinates and fertilizes the ovule hidden inside the pistil. As a result of pollination, a tiny ovary should appear, and all other parts of the flower will fall off over time.
Every spring, huge numbers of flowers cover the apricot branches to give life to new fruits.
Botanists say that a flower is simply a shortened shoot that is adapted for the reproduction of angiosperms.
Video: blooming apricot orchards
Flowering time
The southern apricot blooms before everyone else, without waiting stable heat. IN different regions The timing of flowering differs - the further south, the earlier. Everything depends primarily on the weather of the current year, and sometimes even on the microclimate of a particular area: it happens that apricots in one place have already faded, while in another the first timid flowers are just blooming. In any case, the blooming of apricot trees is a convincing sign of the beginning of spring. However, it is still a long way from its complete dominion; at this time, night frosts and recurrent frosts are still possible.
Apricot blooms very early, when the first leaves are just beginning to bloom on the trees.
Even a short-term cold snap can significantly affect the future harvest. Apricot flowers and ovaries, significantly damaged by frost, fall off the tree. Those that are less affected often develop deformed fruits that are unsuitable for consumption.
The influence of temperature on the growth of flower ovaries
Scientists have long been interested in the question of how the buds, buds, flowers and ovaries of fruit trees tolerate low temperatures. The data obtained turned out to be very interesting:
People have long noticed that during the flowering period of garden trees there is always a drop in temperature, and even frost. Most often, it is apricots that get cold shock, because they bloom earlier than everyone else, during the period of least stable heat.
Ways to delay apricot flowering
With more later flowering, the likelihood of frost decreases, this way you can preserve more ovaries and increase the yield of apricots. How to do this? There are several practice-tested answers to this question:
- Summer pruning. Pruning young branches carried out from mid-May to early June will delay the development of secondary shoots and stimulate the formation of flower buds on second- and third-order branches. This will ensure that flowers bloom later in the spring. The shoots need to be cut to one third of their length.
- Graft. This method is more complicated, especially for novice gardeners. An early-blooming apricot should be grafted onto a late-blooming plant. It is better to choose a rootstock among apricots, cherry plums, plums, sloe, sand cherry, and zherdels (wild apricots).
- Mulching with sawdust. To perform protection, the tree trunk circle is mulched with manure or peat. Then the snow is raked under the tree and compacted (layer up to 30 cm). It is sprinkled with sawdust and covered with snow again. As a result, the sawdust freezes into a single layer, which will delay the melting of snow in the spring. IN cold ground root system will awaken later, which means the flowering of the tree will be delayed.
- Whitewashing the trunk slaked lime with the addition of manure or clay. It will prevent the trunk from heating up in the first sun and will delay the blooming of the buds.
Whitewashing the trunk with slaked lime with the addition of manure or clay will delay the flowering period of apricots
- Water the soil abundantly in the fall before frost. In this case, the soil under the tree freezes more strongly and will thaw more slowly in the spring, delaying the flowering of buds. Watering a tree in early spring has a similar effect. cold water.
- Sprinkling early spring. Trees can be sprayed clean water, as soon as the temperature drops to 0 ºС. You need to repeat the procedure several times so that the entire tree is covered with a thin protective crust of ice. This ice layer will protect the buds and shoots from frost.
Ice glaze protects buds from frost
- Spraying the crown. It is carried out before the buds open in early spring. Various drugs are used for this:
- saturated salt solution (0.7 kg per 10 liters of water);
- urea (0.7 kg) with copper sulfate(0.05 kg) per 10 liters of water;
- three percent Bordeaux mixture (0.3 kg of copper sulfate and lime dissolved in 10 liters of water);
- iron sulfate (0.4 kg of substance per 10 liters of water);
- urea with ferrous sulfate (dissolve 0.5 kg of urea and 0.05 kg of sulfate in 10 liters of water).
If the apricot bloomed before frost
Save it already flowering trees The following agricultural practices will help against frost:
Video: how to protect trees from frost
Why doesn't apricot bloom?
In order for an apricot to bloom on your site, you need:
- choose a tree of the variety that matches the climate of the area and the growing conditions on the site;
- satisfy all the needs of the plant in terms of soil quality, lighting, protection from winds, and so on;
- , control pests and diseases in a timely and competent manner;
- Regularly, but not excessively, feed the tree with all the necessary fertilizers.
It happens that the gardener has done everything for the apricot: he acquired an excellent variety for the given area, chose the right place, and adhered to all the conditions when planting. But the tree has been growing for several years and does not bloom. The reasons for this situation may be different:
Spraying flowering apricots
During the flowering period, apricots, as a rule, are not sprayed so that chemicals do not get into the ovaries and then into the fruits. In addition, such processing of wood can harm pollinating insects, which will sharply reduce the yield.
An exception may be the next stage of the fight against moniliosis. If the first phases of treatment were previously carried out, then it is during the flowering period that another spraying is carried out. But at the same time, they use Fundazol in a concentration of 0.1% (5 g per 5 liters of water), which is the least toxic to bees and other insects that pollinate apricot flowers. After such an event, the tree will be provided with two weeks of protection from monilia.
During the process of flowering and fruit formation, apricot consumes a lot of nutrients. Of course, in this situation, the gardener must support the tree by feeding it with the necessary fertilizers. After flowering, nitrogen-containing preparations continue to be applied:
- saltpeter (urea) - to maintain active growth;
- organic substances (mullein, chicken droppings) - so that the plant has everything necessary elements for fruit formation.
In order for the fruit to set well on the apricot after flowering, you need to feed the tree
- 10 liters of water;
- 2 tablespoons of ammonium nitrate;
- 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate.
The dissolved substances are poured into a furrow dug around the perimeter of the tree crown. When the solution is absorbed, you need to pour in a liter jar of ash or a glass of dolomite flour.
To receive annually good harvest apricots, it is not enough just to water and fertilize. In spring, apricot trees need protection from frost. Simple agronomic techniques will help protect delicate flowers from exposure to cold. And already in the middle of summer, the apricot will thank the gardener with juicy and sweet fruits.
In early spring, the nature of Crimea awakens. The famous Crimean gardens are blooming, providing the country with a huge amount of fruit. But if suddenly there comes even a short-term, but sharp cold snap, the frosts kill the delicate flowers of fruit trees, and then don’t expect Crimean apples, delicious almonds, juicy cherries...
If only it were possible to delay the flowering of gardens for at least a week!
And here organic chemistry starts to come to the rescue agriculture. Some organic acids synthesized by chemists are quite complex structure may slow down plant development. Such substances are called herbisides.
Different herbicides affect plants differently. Some delay the flowering of fruit trees, inhibit the development of buds and leaves, which helps protect plants from frost. Others inhibit the development of shrubs, allowing the planting time to be extended in the spring. Hot spring time, in the midst of agricultural work, this is very important. Some herbisides delay early development buds in potato tubers.
The chemical substance alpha-naphthylacetic acid has a dual effect on fruit trees: it, for example, delays the flowering of apple trees and prevents apples from falling before they ripen.
Of particular interest are some herbisides that act on various plants selectively: they destroy, for example, only broad-leaved plants, without affecting the rest. These herbicides can destroy weeds in grain fields.
The most common way to use herbicides is to spray plants with a solution containing 1-5 grams of herbicide per 100 liters of water. Sometimes the plant is sprinkled with powder or immersed in a herbicide solution.
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It is not so rare that gardeners, both professionals and amateurs, are faced with the problem of apricots not flowering. It is not surprising that, in addition to admiring the fragrant flowers, they want to collect a good harvest of healthy and juicy fruits.
There is a solution to this problem. True, garden owners will have to make some effort and spend time, firstly, in order to study such a crop as apricot, and secondly, in order to do everything necessary procedures Right.
Let's talk about how to determine the type of problem, how to get rid of it, and how to achieve maximum fruiting in an apricot. After all, any plant, with the right and quality care, can delight owners for many years with both amazing flowering and quantity of fruit. Apricot also belongs to this group of plants.
For owners of personal plots who want to grow apricots in their garden, gardeners advise:
- carefully read the literature, which describes in detail correct options plant care and methods of growing it
- choose the appropriate apricot variety for the given region
- pick up right place for planting a seedling
- use the right fertilizers for feeding apricots.
Quite often it happens that the owner of the garden does everything correctly and on time, but there are still no buds on the tree. From this we can draw the following conclusions: either some mistake was made in the care, or the weather conditions had such a negative impact.
There are cases when both causes have a detrimental effect at the same time. To solve problems of this kind, it is necessary to understand what exactly caused them. This is the only way to choose a solution to solve problems.
Apricot flowering, why it does not occur
There are several reasons for the lack of flowering and fruiting. We will consider the main ones in more detail.
cold
The concept of cold for a plant can be different. Naturally, it makes no sense to plant a heat-loving fruit tree in the Far North. Not only will the plant not bear fruit, but the seedling is unlikely to take root.
Tree planted in middle lane may be subject to negative influence in the harsh winter. Enough low temperatures may well slow down the development of buds on a tree or even cancel them completely.
It is likely that the long winter froze the buds too much and therefore, with the arrival of spring, they did not fulfill their direct functions. Apricot is a tree that loves warmth.
Based on this, you need to understand that a not very well chosen place for planting will negatively affect its flowering and fruiting, respectively. Causes: cold wind or deep frozen soil.
age
Often, the fruiting period of a tree falls between three and eight years of age.
Therefore, flowering occurs at the same time. Like any rule, there are exceptions here too. They are associated with various circumstances; in other words, the tree may mature later.
illnesses
Infectious gum disease is considered the most dangerous disease of apricot. It appears in the form of a liquid, viscous in consistency, which forms on branches, fruits, and trunks.
There may be several reasons for the appearance of this type of disease:
A tree seedling will grow quickly and actively bear fruit in a place where it will have enough sunlight, the soil will be rich in sufficient nutrients, in addition, it should have good moisture and air permeability.
It is worth noting that groundwater should be located at least two meters from the roots of the seedling.
This type fruit trees it is necessary to feed: with fertilizers with a mineral base twice a year, and with organic fertilizers - four times during the same period.
When purchasing a seedling, it is very important to choose a variety that is specially bred for active growth and fruiting in a specific, suitable region.
A tree planted in the shade from other trees orchard or in the shadow of something else, a huge part of its strength will be spent trying to reach the sun.
Conclusion: lack of sunlight may well cause a lack of flowering and, consequently, the formation of fruits.
To learn how to grow apricots correctly, watch the video:
How to achieve abundant apricot flowering
For those wishing to collect big harvest apricot in your garden, you need to know that you should not overdo it with the amount of fertilizer applied to feed the tree. Excess applied compounds activate the growth of the trunk and the formation of increments. In order to stop this process, you will have to not fertilize the plant for the next year.
In fact, there can be many reasons for the lack of flowering and fruiting. There cannot be a single answer why this happens. Quite often, several factors influence these problems at the same time.
In order to understand everything and change the situation in better side, you need to carefully study the relevant literature, perhaps consult with experienced specialists. And only after the main reason for what is happening is clear, begin to eliminate it and all related problems.
We must not forget that among possible reasons The reasons why apricot does not bloom may be due to improper pruning; strong thickening of the tree crown may prevent the appearance of buds.
Let's see how to prune an apricot tree:
You can expect massive flowering and full fruiting from a tree that is eight years old.
Poor flowering and fruiting of apricots can be caused by cool weather and frost. In order to protect the tree to some extent from their negative influence, it should be planted in places protected from the wind, for example, on the south side of the house or other buildings.
Apricot fruiting
The following actions influence a good fruiting result:
- the right plant variety
- provision necessary conditions for tree growth
- pruning of branches correctly and on time
- carrying out preventative work for pest extermination and disease control (as needed)
- fertilizing with fertilizers within the recommended norms.
Caring for fruit trees does not involve any complicated actions, but doing so can protect the plant from various problems. It is always easier to prevent problems from occurring than to deal with existing ones later.
Based on this, before buying a seedling of any of famous varieties, it is necessary to carefully familiarize yourself with all the information available about it, which can be gleaned from the relevant literature. Particular attention should be paid to sections related to varietal characteristics.
Only in cases of such a careful approach to the process of growing and caring can one obtain a rich harvest of juicy and vitamin-rich fruit.
Apricot sheds ovaries, what to do
One of the most common causes of loss of ovary is considered to be rot that develops in the root system. This problem is very significant and should not be left without special attention. The reason for the debate may be fallen leaves that were not removed in a timely manner and gathered around the rhizome in large quantities.
In general, eliminating the problem of apricot ovary shedding comes down to choice the right variety fruit tree suitable and bred specifically for a specific region. The solution to this problematic issue lies in identifying the reasons, namely whether all the necessary factors for proper development plants.
How to treat apricot after flowering
The main enemy of apricot after the end of the flowering process is cleasterosporiosis or, as it is also called, perforated spot and monilial burn. It is possible and necessary to combat threats of this kind.
To fight, you need a composition of Bordeaux mixture of 1%. To prepare it, you will need to mix 100 g of copper sulfate and 200 g of freshly slaked lime. The resulting mixture is added to a container with 10 liters of water. After which the tree can be sprayed with it, but after the flowering process is completed.
If during the same period traces of leaf rollers, aphids or moths are visible on the tree, it is necessary to carry out another spraying with a composition containing a diluted insecticide. You can buy products for treating trees at any gardening store; you can always get information about new products from store salespeople; they are often more effective.
Watch the video on how to properly process wood:
Does apricot need a pair to bear fruit?
Experienced gardeners say with confidence: in fruit trees such as apricot there are no differences between seedlings by gender. True, it is worth considering one point: there are varieties that require another tree for normal pollination.
This fact must be clarified before making a purchase from the seller. If apricots of a different variety are already growing in the garden, then there is no need to worry about this issue at all.
What does apricot yield depend on?
Apricots are among the crops that tolerate drought well. But too long a dry period, combined with other factors unfavorable for normal growth and fruiting, can significantly reduce the activity of the formation of generative buds. As a result: little or no harvest.
If an apricot dries out after flowering, then the tree may be lacking moisture.
One of the first significant waterings should be done in the second half of May. It will help reduce the percentage of crumbling ovaries. The next watering should occur approximately two weeks before the fruit begins to ripen. Another abundant watering, in mandatory, must occur after all the harvest from the tree has been collected.
Abundant and timely watering will enable foliage to actively develop and, in the future, to form new buds for flowering. Watering in autumn is very important for the plant. They help the root system to actively grow, ensure the assimilation of generative buds in winter and increase resistance to the harmful effects of winter temperature changes.
In the spring, to protect fruit trees from frost, it is difficult to rely only on smoke; it is not always possible to predict frosts, and even knowing about them, it is not always possible to arrive at garden plot during. I try to “steal” the trees from frost by delaying flowering.
In the fall, I mulch the tree trunk circles by 10-15 cm with peat mixed with manure. But by January, this layer of mulch and the soil underneath it freeze to 10-15 cm. To prevent the soil from freezing further, I constantly accumulate snow in the tree trunk circle (up to 30-35 cm), compact it and pour it on top sawdust by 10-15 cm. There is snow on them again. The sawdust hardens immediately.
With the coming of spring top layer The snow on the sawdust melts quickly, and underneath the layer of compacted snow with sawdust remains unchanged. The main thing is that the mulch layer and part of the soil with roots remain frozen. Despite the spring warming, the awakening of flower buds is delayed until the onset of stable above-zero temperatures. Only May 8-12, depending on the beginning of spring, from trunk circle I remove the sawdust, the snow underneath melts in a day or two, and the tree begins to come to life.
On average, the development of trees is “late” by 2 weeks, and they “avoid” frosts.
N. P o p o v, Orekhovo-Zuevo
DEAR Nikolai Vladimirovich! The method you use to delay the flowering of fruit crops is not new. Amateur gardeners have repeatedly reported on its successful use. Despite this, “freezing” the root system cannot be unconditionally recommended. Success and harmlessness this method depend, firstly, on prevailing weather conditions and, secondly, on the biological characteristics of the plant.
By the beginning of spring, fruit trees are in a state of forced dormancy. Unlike deep (organic) dormancy, in which plants remain until approximately mid-winter, forced dormancy does not prevent the tree from transitioning to vegetation. The rate at which trees emerge from dormancy is determined, on the one hand, by the average daily temperature and the duration of the thaw, and on the other hand, biological features fruit crop. An apple tree that slowly emerges from forced dormancy develops less actively in the spring and does not react so violently to provoking warming. On the contrary, stone fruits and pears are capable of sharply accelerating spring development in the event of a sufficiently long thaw. The exit of a tree from a state of forced dormancy is influenced by both the heating of the soil and, accordingly, the root system, and the heating of the above-ground part. In turn, the temperature of the crown branches depends on the ambient temperature and the direct effect of sunlight.
Initially, the spring development of the tree occurs due to last year's reserves located in the storage tissues of the above-ground and root systems. Subsequently, as the work of the root system intensifies and the leaf apparatus develops, the plant switches to using newly received elements of mineral nutrition, water and photosynthetic products. In case of prolonged warm (about 20°C) sunny weather, it is stormy developing plants they will quickly waste their spare ones nutrients and may die without waiting for new ones from a dysfunctional root system. For this reason, this method of delaying flowering poses the greatest danger primarily for stone fruits, especially those with different early flowering apricot, cherry, cherry plum.
The method proposed by some experts and amateurs seems safer, combining abundant watering of the soil within the crown projection with cold water and whitewashing the entire crown with a mixture of lime and copper sulfate (2 kg and 200 g per 10 liters of water, respectively) or water-based paint(VD KCH 577, BC 511). This method helps delay flowering for 1-2 weeks and can be used on sufficiently drained soils. All this is done in April, before the buds swell.
Taking into account positive aspects delaying the onset of flowering as one of the methods of combating frost should not be considered a panacea. IN recent years Prolonged early spring warming followed by frosts and prolonged cooling is not uncommon. Low positive temperatures (5-10° C) and damp weather are powerful damaging factors (weak pollinators, disturbances in fertilization, fungal diseases, etc.). Stone fruit crops are particularly affected by poor conditions during flowering. On the other hand, early-flowering fruit trees, such as apricot, cherry, cherry plum, pear, and a number of varieties of cherries and plums, can quickly bloom with prolonged warming and form a fairly large ovary, more resistant to frost than buds and especially open flowers. Under these conditions, delaying flowering will be more likely to cause harm, since it shifts flowering to the period of return cooling.
Gardeners who want to get a harvest every year should, in addition to using a variety of methods to protect crops from frost, pay attention to the selection of crops and varieties. The presence of a wide range of varieties of fruit and berry species provides mutual “safety net” and, therefore, a more guaranteed harvest.
