How to lay parquet on a wooden floor. How to lay a parquet board on a wooden floor with your own hands, installation methods. Types of parquet boards

The main methods of laying parquet boards

The parquet board is laid either by the floating floor method or by the rigid fastening of the board to the base.

1. floating floor method is to connect parquet boards with each other without fixing them to the base of the floor. The boards are assembled into a single layer, which lies freely on the substrate - a special compensating material located between the base and the parquet floor. This method is the most common, but like any other method, it has its strengths and weaknesses.

Main advantages:

high speed of the assembly process - laying 30 m2 of board takes no more than one day;

cost minimization - the cost of the finished floor consists only of the cost of the board, substrate and parquet work;

fewer requirements for the professionalism of the installer - laying the board can be done even on their own;

possibility reuse boards - glueless connection allows you to partially or completely disassemble the parquet floor and lay it again.

Main cons:

insufficient reliability - the mobility of the parquet layer over time can lead to deformation lock connection and violation of the integrity of the structure;

when restoring parquet, it will be almost impossible to polish its surface with high quality. The lack of a rigid attachment to the base will not allow it to be done evenly over the entire area;

possible discomfort during operation - the movement of the floating floor in a vertical plane during short-term loads leads to the sound of steps characteristic of the floating floor and, over time, to the appearance of a creak.

2. Method of rigid attachment to the base involves gluing each parquet board to a specially prepared floor base. During the drying of the adhesive composition, the boards are additionally fixed with parquet nails or staples to enhance the strength of the entire structure. This method also has its advantages and disadvantages.

Main advantages:

high reliability of the design - the glued structure of the "parquet pie" will give additional reliability and durability to the floor;

good repairability - the structural integrity of the parquet floor will allow you to repair its surface with high quality;

high level comfort - the appearance of a creak or a loud sound of steps when walking on the floor is almost completely excluded.

Main cons:

high demands on the professionalism of the installer - the installation of parquet boards by non-professionals will significantly increase the risk of a failed result;

higher cost level - you will need to purchase Additional materials and pay for the services of professional parquet flooring;

time consuming - layer-by-layer installation technology will require much more time than floating floor assembly;

the thickness of the "parquet cake" - an additional layer of plywood will increase the height of the parquet floor.

Preparatory stage of work

Before proceeding to the main stage of work, a number of important preparatory activities should be carried out.

1. Foundation preparation

Substrate requirements for laying boards in a floating way. As a base for a parquet board, old wooden, tile or stone floors, a base made of concrete or self-levelling mixtures, etc. can be used. Textile coverings (carpet, linoleum, carpet) are unsuitable as a base material. Regardless of the type of substrate used, it must be level, dry, solid and clean. The evenness of the base is checked over the entire area of ​​the forthcoming laying, using a rule of at least 2 meters in length. The gap between the base and the rule should not exceed 2-3 mm over a length of 2000 mm. If necessary, the base should be leveled or sanded in accordance with the specified requirements. The moisture content of a concrete or sand-cement base must not exceed 2%. Underfloor heating should be used with extreme caution. The heating temperature of the surface of the base must in no case exceed +27 °C. Fluctuations in floor temperature during the day should remain within 5 °C. It is not recommended to lay parquet boards made of wood species that are especially sensitive to changes in humidity and temperature, such as beech, maple, olive or wenge, on heated floors.

Requirements for the base for laying the board by the method of rigid fastening. As with a floating floor, the base for hardwood flooring must be dry, even, clean and strong. In addition, it should be as suitable as possible for the full surface bonding of parquet and be able to securely hold nails or self-tapping screws inside. Moisture-resistant plywood, comparable in thickness to a parquet board, will serve as an ideal base. Plywood, in turn, must also be securely attached to a wooden or concrete base with glue and self-tapping screws. The surface of the plywood must be sanded, and the plywood itself must be laid in compliance with the technological gap 5 mm wide between the sheets. Attention! The use of "warm floor" systems under such a base is unacceptable.

2. Laying scheme

Before starting work, you need to make a choice laying directions parquet boards in every room. Usually the board is laid in the direction of the falling into the room daylight. In rooms with an elongated shape, it is recommended to lay the parquet board in longitudinal direction(material waste will be 3-5%). In rooms of complex geometric shape, you can lay the board diagonally (material waste will be 7-10%). If the old wooden floor, parquet should be laid across the boards of this floor. Premises with different directions laying must be separated by expansion joints, which are then closed with overhead thresholds.

3. Preparation of materials and tools for work

The minimum set of tools. To lay the parquet board you will need the following tools: thin blade saw, hammer, sharp knife, a marking square, a drill, a chisel, a tape measure, a pencil, a wooden or plastic chisel (at least 30 cm long with straight edges), wooden wedges, a spatula and a mounting paw.

Preparation for the work of the board and related materials. Before proceeding directly to work, prepare the parquet board for laying. Unopened packages with parquet boards are recommended to be kept in the room where laying is to take place for at least 3-5 days in order to better adapt the board to the microclimate of the room. Parquet packs should be opened only in the course of work. Before laying the boards, you need to make sure that they do not have defects. If a damaged board is found, it can be replaced with a board without flaws by contacting the seller, or used at the beginning or end of the row during the laying process. The room in which the installation will be carried out must be well lit and have optimal performance temperature (18-24 °C) and air humidity (40-60%). Do not forget to prepare everything for work: the substrate and, if necessary, glue, plywood, hardware, rags to remove excess glue.

Important points to consider when laying parquet boards in a floating way

Before starting work, be sure to read the installation manual and the rules for operating the parquet board, drawn up by its manufacturer. The following are only general recommendations for laying parquet boards, as well as listed typical mistakes that are committed during installation work inexperienced craftsmen.

1. Brief step-by-step instruction floating laying

First of all, you need to measure the width of the room and calculate how many rows of boards you need. If the width of the last row is less than 40 mm, cut the boards of the first row with a saw, reducing their width.

Spread the underlayment on the floor subfloor, if necessary fastening adjacent sheets of material with adhesive tape so that they do not bend during installation.

Start laying from left to right (fig. 1), from a solid wall of the room, placing the first board with a longitudinal tenon against the wall. The distance of 7-10 mm between the boards and the wall must be adjusted using wedges.

Install the next board with the short side facing the previous board. Connect the boards to each other with a spike in the groove (Fig. 2). Continue in this manner until the end of the first row.

Using a saw, cut the last board of the row to size, taking into account expansion joint, and put it down.

Start the next row (fig. 5) with a piece cut from the last board laid. Adjacent boards should overlap each other by at least 30-50 cm (Fig. 3). For a tight connection, it is necessary to lightly knock adjacent boards to each other with a hammer and a punch (Fig. 8). Attention! Do not use cutting boards as a stump. Continue assembling the parquet board until you reach the last row.

The last row. Measure the width of the last row at several points (taking into account the expansion joint), mark the cutting line and cut the boards to the appropriate size. Lay the boards and press them firmly into place, for example with a mounting foot. Place a protective pad between the wall and the mounting foot to avoid damaging the wall. Install expansion wedges.

Even after studying the instructions for laying a parquet board, many make typical mistakes and miscalculations, namely:

lay a parquet board on a poorly prepared base;

carry out installation work in a room with improper temperature and humidity conditions;

do not arrange a technological seam at the border of the board with other floor coverings and when approaching vertical obstacles (walls, columns, built-in furniture);

use in laying trimming boards smaller than permissible sizes;

leave the distance between the end joints of the boards in adjacent rows less than 30 cm;

loosely connect the docking node (thorn-groove) of the board.

Important points to consider when laying parquet boards in a way of rigid fastening to the base

1. Brief step-by-step installation instructions with gluing to the base

Once again, make sure that the base, materials and tools for laying the board in this way are ready and of good quality.

Carry out the assembly of parquet boards in the same order as for the assembly of boards by the floating method, after applying a layer of glue to the base or back of the board.

Press each glued board firmly to the base with nails or a heavy weight. Do not remove the load until the adhesive has completely dried.

Avoid getting adhesives on oiled or varnished surfaces. Wipe off any excess adhesive that appears on the surface immediately with a damp cloth, preventing it from drying out.

Do not subject the floor to heavy loads in the first few hours after laying until the adhesive has completely dried.

2. The main mistakes during installation work

The method of rigid fastening to the base requires much more experience in parquet work. But even professional parquet floorers sometimes make mistakes:

do not clean the base from dust and dirt, which leads to a deterioration in the quality of gluing;

use poor-quality, improperly prepared or unsuitable glue;

do not control the consumption of glue;

do not press the boards tightly enough to the base, leaving “air pockets” between them;

do not remove glue residue from the surface of the board in time.

Summary

At the beginning of our article, we asked ourselves: what you need to know and be able to get a beautiful, reliable and durable parquet flooring. It's time to take stock.

Laying a parquet board is a time-consuming and responsible process that requires special knowledge and professional skills. Compliance with the following rules will help to achieve success in this difficult task.

Select suitable technology laying parquet boards.

Acquire the necessary quality materials for laying.

Properly prepare the base.

Determine the laying direction.

Start laying the parquet board only after all wet work has been completed.

Entrust the execution of all the above points to professionals.

One of the stages of repair in the apartment - registration or replacement floor covering. There are many materials for this and all of them are in demand. Before choosing the most preferred option, you should familiarize yourself with the advantages of all coatings. One of the most popular is called parquet. This material is environmentally friendly and harmless to human health.

Parquet in the interior

Attention! Laying parquet boards on a wooden floor easy job, but requiring attention and accuracy. In this case, it will be possible to do everything at the proper level, guaranteeing the durability of the subsequent service of the floor covering, an attractive appearance, and compliance with operational characteristics.

Classification of parquet boards

This material is divided by professionals into types that differ in the number of stripes visible on the surface of the material. Depending on this, there are the following types parquet board:

• Single lane. This type The material is made from a single layer of the workpiece, the natural texture of wood is visible on its surface.
• Two-lane. The base of such a board is one, while the top layer is made of two parts.
• Three-lane. AT this case The board is divided into three strips.
• Four-lane. This parquet has four stripes, which looks quite impressive and attractive.

Floor preparation: what should be done?

Regardless of the type of parquet chosen, the floor surface requires mandatory preparation. Only then is it allowed to lay the coating. To do this, sources of moisture or drafts should be eliminated in the room.

The parquet board is often laid on a concrete base. In this case, the installation is quite simple. building level the evenness of the floor is checked, and if defects are found in the form of drops, protrusions or pits, they are eliminated and leveled.

Let's allow a difference of no more than 2 mm for every 2 sq. m.. The floor surface must be dry and without cracks, which can subsequently lead to damage to the laid floor covering. The purchased material is kept for some time in the room in which it will be laid. This will help the parquet board to adapt to the temperature conditions of the room and acquire the necessary flexibility.

The next step is to prepare the leveled base. Laid on concrete the following materials:

• waterproofing film;
• polystyrene or foamed polyethylene;
• plywood sheets.

Now we get a wooden floor, which means that there will be no problems with subsequent installation. Before starting the laying of heat and waterproofing coatings, the subfloor is thoroughly cleaned. Then a waterproofing film is laid on it along the room in strips. The strips are superimposed on each other by no less than 12 cm. The film is laid on the wall surface to a height of up to 5 cm.

A heat-insulating substrate is laid on the laid waterproofing. In this case, gaps should be excluded. Details of the material are fixed with adhesive tape or adhesive tape. Sheets of plywood or chipboard are laid on the thermal insulation, and subsequently different ways parquet is laid.

Parquet installation technologies

Professionals distinguish several options for laying parquet. It is worth giving preference to a particular one based on the specific features of the room. But first you need to familiarize yourself with the methods and their differences.

"Floating" method of laying parquet boards

The “floating” method is in demand today. In front of it, a concrete base is being prepared, including a flooring of heat and waterproofing material. Parquet elements are not fixed to the base, they are only fixed to each other. Laying starts from the very long wall where there is no doorway, towards the window.

Attach parts to adhesive composition or by locking. In the first case, the strength of the coating and its elasticity are ensured. But when using boards with special locking grooves, time is saved, and laying is much faster. In addition, if necessary, parquet elements can be dismantled, which cannot be done using an adhesive composition.

Laying such parquet boards is simple, and you can do it yourself. To do this, each parquet element is laid with the upper lock to the wall surface, observing a small gap of several millimeters, into which wedges are inserted. After the coating is finally laid, they are removed.

Next, the next row is laid, which starts from the last element of the previous row. The connection occurs by snapping the locking mechanism until a characteristic click. If snapping does not occur, you can knock out the elements. It is undesirable to use a hammer for this, as defects will appear on the surface of the board. For this process it is better to take a bar or a rubber mallet.

The "floating" option for laying parquet boards is used in small areas. Its advantage is the ability to replace one or more damaged elements.

"Non-floating" mounting method

The second popular method is the solid or "non-floating" method. In this case, you will have to carefully prepare the base for laying the parquet. To do this, the concrete floor is cleaned and leveled, then covered with plywood sheets, the thickness of which should be at least 1 cm. It is better to give preference to sheets with a water-repellent coating.

Before proceeding with the laying of plywood, it is cut into sheets, with a side length of not more than 1 m. They are laid without gaps, after which the material is carefully sanded and cleaned of dust.

A similar method of fastening a parquet board requires compliance with the temperature regime in the room within +20 degrees. Installation takes place as in the "floating" method, with the only difference being that each element is fixed with an adhesive composition to the plywood sheet. In addition, the joints between the boards are also coated with glue.

When fixing the material, gaps are left between the parquet and the wall. They are subsequently covered with a plinth, before fixing which the protruding waterproofing material.

Installation of parquet board on a wooden floor

Installation of parquet on a wooden floor is also in demand. This laying method is possible when the base is even, without drops. Parquet boards are fixed with nails. Under them, a waterproofing film is preliminarily laid.

Method of laying parquet boards on logs

Another method is laying parquet boards on logs. This method can only be applied if the parquet is of sufficient thickness. As a log, bars are used, which are laid across the room. Under them lay waterproofing material.

The beam is fixed to the floor with dowels. They begin to install the logs, stepping back from the wall by 3-5 cm. The step between the bars should not be more than 40 cm. The evenness of the laid timber is checked by the level, and if necessary, alignment is performed by placing plates under them. two layers of waterproof plywood are laid on the logs. The seams between the sheets of the upper and lower layers should not match.

The parquet is being laid in a standard way, and nails are used as a fastener, which are driven at an angle into the base of the board. Subsequently, the fixing point is closed with another parquet element. This installation method is considered laborious, therefore it is rarely used.

Laying parquet boards diagonally

You can give preference to laying the diagonal type. When mounting in this way, glue or nails are used for fixing. Laying occurs from the marking of the board in the middle, and cutting off the corners at 45 degrees. Then the element is cut and fitted to the wall. In this case, a gap of several centimeters is also left.

Important! In the end, if the material is not processed in the factory, the parquet board is varnished. This will greatly increase the service life. In addition, the lacquer coating will give an aesthetic and complete appearance to the floor.

In general, the installation of high-quality parquet on a wooden floor is in demand. You can give preference to parquet of any type - single-strip, two-, three- or four-strip. Special attention devote to the selection colors coatings. As a result, the interior will look attractive and cozy.

There is a huge selection of floor coverings. The parquet board has an attractive appearance and durability, which led to the popularity of this material.

The parquet board requires a perfectly even and very dry base. But wood floors, especially old ones, rarely meet these criteria. What to do? Read our article.

The parquet board is a ready-to-use multi-layer coating, consisting of:

1. Top wear-resistant protective layer: polyurethane, urethane-alkyd varnish, oil, oil-wax or wax treatment.
2. array valuable breed wood with a layer up to 6 mm: beech, oak, maple and many others. The collections of well-known manufacturers include more than 50 designs, including bleached or tinted wood, brushed or artificially aged (rustic).
3. Base plate up to 9 mm thick, made of finger-jointed pine or other conifers. Its fibers are located transversely to the top layer, which allows you to protect the structure from various deformations and distortions.
4. Stabilization layer with longitudinally arranged fibers. This helps to reduce the tension of the layers and ensures a stable plank geometry. Thickness - up to 3 mm.

Thanks to this design, the parquet board, unlike solid wood boards, is not afraid of bending-bending and twisting deformations, and is resistant to temperature changes.

Another difference between a parquet board and a massive (solid) board is 4 laying methods: floating, glued, with hardware and on logs. If wooden floors act as the base, the first two methods are considered optimal. The table below shows their advantages and disadvantages.

Rules for laying on a wooden floor

The wooden floor is a capricious base. If you do not take into account all the factors, then very quickly there will be unpleasant creaks when walking, uneven coverage, local swelling and other defects. Therefore, manufacturers strongly recommend using the guidelines provided on inserts or in brochures.

Laying a parquet board on a wooden floor is carried out in 3 stages. Permissible temperature regime for the installation period - from +18 to +25 ° С, humidity - 30-60%.

Preparing a wooden subfloor

A wooden or parquet floor does not have an ideal attachment to the base, which is why such defects as “humps”, squeaks, drops, gaps, etc. appear. The following events are being held:

1. Coarse sanding of the canvas with parquet and angle grinders.
2. Puttying the entire surface with a mixture of sawdust and putty base liquid. Either all joints, corners, junctions, gaps are sealed with a finished putty mass.
3. Re-grinding with a surface grinder. If there are strong swellings or “humps”, then they must be cut off, if possible, pulled to concrete base self-tapping screws, fasten.

Often, for full alignment, it is recommended to lay sheets of plywood or OSB with a thickness of 12 mm or more. Fasten with oxidized or galvanized self-tapping screws every 30-50 cm crosswise, drown the caps by 3-4 mm before grinding. The compensation gap between the layers should be at least 5 mm. After installation on plywood, you also need to go through the grinder to level and fit the joints.

The finished base must be vacuumed and the surface can be treated with a primer with fungicidal additives. This will improve adhesion and protect the substrate from possible mold and bugs in the future.

More problematic is laying parquet boards on an old wooden floor. For him, full-fledged embroidering is recommended, that is, weak slats are identified and re-glued to the base. Filling of all defects and grinding is obligatory.

Preparing parquet boards for laying

The parquet board should "acclimatize" in the room. Therefore, 48 hours before laying, the packed flooring must be brought into the room and left. Unpacking is carried out immediately before installation.

Because wood is a natural product, slight variations in color, tone or texture may occur. In addition, some species darken in the first few days after unpacking (bamboo and others). This is a normal process, do not be afraid.

Experienced craftsmen prefer to first unpack the entire floorboard, inspect for defects and make a preliminary layout in order to know which planks will have to be cut.

It is not allowed to use pieces less than 50 cm long and less than 5 cm wide.

Installation must be carried out in a checkerboard pattern, that is, so that the joints do not match. Such laying will avoid geometric deformations in the future and increase the strength of the canvas.

Floating installation

With a change in temperature and humidity, wood products change their geometric dimensions - slightly narrow and expand. Therefore, compensation gaps of 10-15 mm should be left along the perimeter near the walls. This will protect the future floor from swelling.

The floor heating system must be turned off 6-8 hours before laying the parquet board. Installation starts from the far wall. A cork or polyethylene foam 3 mm thick is laid on the base.

Along the perimeter of the walls, columns, pipes and other vertical fixed structures, every 5 cm, home-made plastic or wooden limiters are installed.

At the first row, the protruding part of the groove is cut off. The first bar is laid, leveled, the second is brought to it and snaps into place. The same with the rest. The second row begins with a short (cropped) board.

Installation should be carried out from the connection of the end edges, then docking is carried out along the long side. The last row is trimmed the right size, but the width must be at least 5 cm. Knocking with a bar and a small hammer or mallet is allowed.

After completion of work, the restrictive wedges are removed, the plinth is mounted. Treatment with varnish or oil compositions is not required, since the parquet board is already covered with special protective equipment in factory conditions.

Adhesive laying

Mounting on glue is similar to the floating method, with the difference that a thick synthetic-based adhesive (Barlinek, Homakol, etc.) is applied to the base. Do not use water-dispersion mixtures.

At the first row, the protruding edge is cut off. Restrictive wedges are installed along the perimeter. Glue is applied to the floor and evenly distributed with a notched trowel. The strip should be slightly wider than the width of the parquet board.

A row is laid and pressed to the base. For safety, you can fix it with nails without hats or load it on top for a while until the glue dries. The next row starts with distribution new portion glue and laying boards with an offset. After completion of work, the wedges are removed,.

So, we figured out how to lay a parquet board on a wooden floor. It is really simple and less expensive than installing massive parquet. Follow our recommendations and your coating will serve you for many years.

Among the modern coatings that are designed for the floor, the parquet board occupies a high place. When ennobling with such a finishing material, the room acquires beautiful view, and this speaks of good taste owner. Previously, parquet was an expensive material and its installation also required experience and skills. But, with the development of new technologies, all processes have become easier. Such work for this moment can be done on your own. It is enough to be able to use the tool and study the installation instructions well.

by the most an important factor in this process is the choice quality coverage- wood. It is better not to chase cheap material, but to opt for a well and properly dried coating with good geometry. Another important factor is the quality of the adhesive composition. It would be good to give preference to an already proven option so as not to spoil the final result.

Preparing for installation

In order to properly prepare the surface for assembling the laminate, it is important to decide what type of base will be chosen. The installation technology is the same in all cases, only the base can differ significantly.

If the coating is laid on concrete plates, then under it it is necessary to align with a concrete or cement-sand screed.

It is not recommended to mount the laminate on a fresh screed, it is necessary to withstand at least a month, and it is best to wait for the surface to dry completely. The degree of drying can be checked. To do this, cut off a large square from the laminate and secure it tightly to the plane with adhesive tape. You can also take a regular jar and put it upside down on the floor. After at least 40 hours, the square must be disconnected and checked for condensation. If not, then you can start assembling the parquet board, and if there is, then you should still give time to dry. You can try some method to reduce the humidity in the room. Requirements that are put forward to the screed:

• It is better if the residual humidity reaches no more than 5%;
• Differences on the surface should not exceed 2 mm;
• At high humidity wait until there is a norm;

At this stage, you need to have laser level and a moisture meter to determine the residual moisture, or use the advice above.

When preparing the base for the laminate, no matter what material will be used, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer.

To do this, you need roofing material, ordinary, but dense polyethylene or specially made for this waterproofing film. The prepared strips of this material should be laid on a concrete base with an overlap of 15 or 20 centimeters. The joints can be joined together with mastic or adhesive tape. If the room is located in such a way that the humidity level is often elevated, experts advise making two layers of insulation: a waterproofing layer, as well as bituminous mastic. Some cases also involve the installation of a layer of sound insulation and thermal insulation. If plywood will be used for covering, the insulation should be made of foamed polyurethane or polyethylene. If logs are used between them, it is necessary to use a special insulation made of mineral wool.

Plywood is laid to concrete with screws, as well as dowels. But, before that, you must first drill holes for them of the appropriate size. It is necessary to attach plywood from the middle of the sheet.

Before laying laminate flooring, it is necessary to fix plywood sheet approximately 32 locations. Its thickness must be at least 2 centimeters. During fixation, it is important to ensure that the seams are not splayed.

If there are beams on the surface, before laying the parquet board, a subfloor should be made. If the beams are far apart, it is necessary to equip the logs. The distance between the lags should be approximately 50-60 centimeters.

The beam, which will be used for logs, must be pre-treated with an antiseptic. But, if they are made of larch bars, this process can be abandoned. This material is very high quality and does not rot. You need to put it on a special cork gasket to provide sound insulation and roofing material to perform waterproofing. It is necessary to lay out this material around the entire perimeter, without gaps.

To lay high-quality parquet, the surface must be perfectly flat.

If you look from the bottom up, you can see such a "parquet cake" consisting of layers:

• Ceiling made of concrete mix;
• waterproofing layer;
• Self leveling agent;
• Primer;
• adhesive;
• Plywood is moisture resistant;
• Parquet glue;
• Parquet board.

As a waterproofing can be used not only polyethylene film, but also foil-coated polypropylene armored film.

Purchased goods in packages should be opened in advance so that the material can adapt to room temperature. This process is best done a few weeks before the start of installation, but, in extreme cases, 48 ​​hours before. Installation of the board is not allowed if concrete screed has a difference of more than 2 cm. but suddenly this situation was discovered, it can be corrected by using a self-leveling compound.

Installation of parquet on a wooden floor

Savings must always be justified. It is important to check before assembling the laminate whether the existing wood flooring is suitable to be the basis for the subsequent material. It must be durable and withstand certain loads. But how to find out? What are the conditions for a rough wood flooring?

• Check the slope of the wooden floorboards, and two running meters it should be no more than 2 mm.
• When walking, the boards should not creak;
• There are no significant differences;
• When moving, the boards do not move and are well fixed;
• Make sure that all boards of the old coating are tongue-and-groove.

If there is even the slightest doubt, you can ask a professional for advice, and also not take risks, but dismantle the old wooden floor yourself. But, if everything is good and the coating is suitable, then you can begin to prepare the base for the installation of parquet.

Preliminary work with the base

All boards that move slightly must be firmly fixed. Then clean from dust and dirt, as well as polishing. After the wooden floor is prepared, it should be treated with an antiseptic. Wooden old boards must be covered with glue and moisture-resistant plywood, the thickness of which is 12 mm, is laid out on top. It is also important to leave expansion joints of about 2 mm between the sheets. Then fix the sheets with screws with a distance between them of 20-25 centimeters. Fixing should be carried out so that the head of the self-tapping screw goes into the sheet by about 3 millimeters. To remove defects and irregularities on plywood, it is necessary to grind the surface with a special machine.

There are some rules that must be observed when installing laminate on a wooden surface.

• All rough work in the room must be completed;
• During installation, it is important to observe the established temperature regime, as well as the percentage of humidity;
• The temperature in the room should not be more than 24 degrees;
• Humidity in the room is not more than 60%.
• Humidity of the base on which the parquet will be mounted is not more than 6%.

Laying process

Masters give advice on laying laminate flooring: the boards must be assembled in a different direction than the wooden floor, it should be laid transversely or diagonally. The parquet is fixed with an adhesive. It must be applied to the base and attach the board so that the maximum contact of the segments is obtained. Boards can also be pulled together, if necessary, with wooden wedges. Leave a compensatory gap between the walls and the parquet.

The boards that are located in the first row should be oriented towards the wall with a groove. Self-tapping screws should be placed so that after installation they can be hidden with a plinth floor. A parquet board with a width of more than 15 centimeters must be additionally fixed on the front side. This step can be performed as an element of decor and drive a self-tapping screw 1 cm deep and cover the hole with a wooden colored cork.

How to properly lay the parquet board on the logs?

This process does not contain wet and dirty steps, you will not need to perform cement mortars. This method is practical, since it is possible to lay various wiring, cables or pipes between the lags, and you can also lay an insulating layer.

It is not necessary to allocate time for drying the screed, which significantly reduces the installation time of the floor covering by less than a month.

Leagues are pieces of dry timber, which is pre-coated with an antiseptic. It will serve as an excellent protection against harmful effects and the occurrence of fungus and mold, which can shorten the life of the surface.

Lags must be laid so that they are perpendicular to the parquet board and fasten them together. It is important to level them up. If there are some irregularities, they can be corrected by tapping. And then attach special wedges to them.

Instead of regular lags, you can use adjustable ones. They are the same as wooden blocks, only have through threaded holes into which plastic stand-off bolts should be screwed, which are firmly fastened to the ceiling. The height of these racks is regulated by a special key. At this moment, the logs can rise or fall, exposing the surface to the level.

Layers of plywood must be laid on top of the lags. First, the first, which is fastened with self-tapping screws, and then the second - on glue, and then also on self-tapping screws, the caps of which should not be deepened by more than 4 mm. Plywood with a total thickness of at least 20 millimeters. Large sheets can be sawn into even pieces to relieve internal stress. Most upper layer must be sanded and only then a parquet board should be laid on it.

It is possible to mount the parquet board on the old parquet flooring. This process should be performed only if it is still strong enough, does not creak. In this case, it is necessary to carry out careful grinding in order to achieve a perfect flat surface parquet. It should be driven by a drum grinder to remove defects and irregularities. Then the surface must be puttied. For this, you can use fine parquet dust, which was obtained in the process of grinding and a special liquid.

After the sanding process, the parquet must be varnished three to seven times using a roller.

The first layer is a primer, which impregnates the pores of the board. Before applying the last coat, the previously applied varnish must be sanded to remove wood fluff. It rises from the impact on the wood of previous layers of varnish.

by the most last step in this process is the installation of a parquet plinth, which can perfectly mask all the irregularities of the wall, as well as veil wires or cables.

To learn how to lay a parquet board with high quality, it is recommended to watch this video:

When choosing a multi-layer wood flooring, buyers often pay attention to its service life. At the same time, without exception, manufacturers indicate that finishing material this period will really last only if the rules for laying parquet boards are observed.

The developers of such well-known factories as Chers, Barlinek, Tarket and others are trying to improve their product, working in many respects not only on the appearance, but also on the installation system. To significantly speed up and facilitate the installation process, new lock kits are being developed. Today we can distinguish the following types:

1. Classic tongue-and-groove or Lock.
2. Click hitch - connection of planks at an angle of 10-30 °, followed by pressing to fasten the lamellas together.
3. 5G system – volumetric fixation. Its names and basic characteristics may vary, but in general the principle is the same - an additional insert or “tongue” made of dense PVC or aluminum is built into the end lock. This component gives the hitch rigidity and strength, prevents seasonal divergence of the bars, and increases the service life of the coating.

From type lock system depends on how to properly lay the parquet board. Each pack of quality floor material always is detailed instructions on installation, answering all the questions of a novice or experienced master.

Let us dwell on the methods of assembling a multilayer wood flooring. Includes:

1. "Floating" (independent). The floor is assembled exclusively on its own locks, without bonding to the base. it the best option if it is planned to lay the parquet board with your own hands.
2. Glue. One-component elastic compositions are used on polymer base(polyurethane, MS and others). The adhesive is applied to any type of screed, including cement and dry prefabricated chipboard, OSB, plywood, etc.
3. On fastener. It is used for rigid fixation of each plank to the base. In this case, special “parquet” (finishing) hardware, air studs (complete with an air gun) or classic dowel-nails are needed.

The scheme of laying the parquet board is standard - with an offset of 1/3. That is, each subsequent row is shifted relative to the previous one by a third of the length of the bar. This will allow you to form a strong, reliable and durable circular “strapping” of all lamellas.

How to lay a parquet board: starting with the basics

The quality of installation of parquet flooring directly depends on how carefully the base is prepared. Criteria:

• Floors formed on the ground;
• Logs, if under the base base there are too raw or warm rooms(boiler room, boiler room, laundry, basement, etc.);
• Systems of water, soft electric or infrared heating;
• Aerated concrete beams.

Features of laying parquet boards are not limited to this list. It is necessary to take into account that:

Advice! Remember that beech or maple floors are subject to active deformation, so they should not be placed on the "warm floor" system.

You will need the following materials and tools for laying parquet boards:

Do-it-yourself parquet board laying: step by step instructions

We describe the installation process in stages.

Foundation preparation

First of all, all old coatings are completely removed without exception. If, according to the results of measurements, floor leveling is required, then for mineral bases you can use:

• Self-levelling self-leveling floors on a cement-gypsum or gypsum basis;
• Dry prefabricated screed sheet materials(plywood, chipboard and others).

The finished base is checked for evenness with a control rail more than 2 m long, with a hygrometer for humidity. If the base defects are small, then they are filled with quick-drying repair compounds or a cement-sand mixture.

The screed must be primed before work:

• Adhesive compounds, if gluing a parquet board is supposed;
• Strengthening compositions, if the coating is laid in a "floating" way.

For wooden base the scheme of work is somewhat different. Irregularities (differences, "humps") should be cut off or eliminated with a parquet grinder. Pits, chips must be leveled with elastic putties, and if there are squeaks, “pull” the subfloor to the base with self-tapping screws or nails. With multiple defects, it is better to form a new prefabricated screed from chipboard sheets or plywood with a thickness of 16 mm. Top is treated with a fungicidal primer.

Preparation for work

After the end of the "wet" work on the prepared surface under the parquet board, a waterproofing and substrate material is laid. That is, neatly, without creases, a film is spread on the floor with an overlap of 15-25 cm, fixed with adhesive tape. Then the sheet or roll substrate is already laid end-to-end. With adhesive mounting, this step is skipped.

Since the parquet board must "acclimatize", the packaged material must be kept indoors for 24 to 36 hours. Experts recommend warming up the floor heating system for 2 weeks before starting installation work, then turn it off 3-4 hours before laying. This will allow you to create the right climate in the premises, to avoid thermal damage to the finish.

Advice! Wood is a natural product, therefore variations in shade and texture are possible. This should not be frightened, it is better to turn it to your advantage - open several packages in advance, lay out the lamellas on the base and form a pattern that is beautiful in your opinion.

The next step is to carefully measure the floor and plan the work. To lay the parquet board as evenly as possible, draw a laying diagram to scale on a piece of paper. The width of the last row should not be less than 5 cm. In this case, a proportional displacement of the first one is necessary.

Floor covering installation

Laying in a "floating" way starts from the longest wall from left to right. Expansion wedges are placed around the perimeter. Some experts recommend doing this after assembling the first three rows: the finished coating is shifted with a bracket and spacers are inserted into the resulting gaps.

The assembly itself begins with the fact that the protruding part of the lock is cut off at the planks of the first row, then the first one is installed in the corner and the installation begins along the end edge. The end plate can be trimmed if necessary. The next row is formed from the rest of the lamella of the previous one. For the parquet board of the classic Click-lock, first the end couplers are connected, then the joining is done along the length with the obligatory knocking out with an impact block.

Note that it is much more convenient to work with Lock and 5G connections. They can be joined as needed both longitudinally and across, which is shown in the video below.

For some types of three-dimensional lock, it is not necessary to additionally adjust the plastic insert. It is enough to click the plates correctly.

The last row of boards must be carefully sized (cut), then assembled by end locks and inserted into the gap between the wall and the outer row. The laid parquet must be pressed with a metal bracket or a wringer.

If the edge of the bar rests against a pipe or other similar obstacle, then the cut line is marked with a pencil, a piece is sawn off, a hole is drilled with a compensation margin of at least 10-16 mm. The lamella is put in place, an adhesive composition is applied to the cut and the cut element is glued.

After the assembly is completed, the wedges must be removed, the floor heating system turned on, gradually raising the temperature, mounted decorative plinth and thresholds in the doors. The formation of gaps in the openings between rooms is not a whim, but a requirement of manufacturers.

When installing parquet boards adhesive method, the order of work will be slightly different:

1. Apply the adhesive to the prepared substrate and spread evenly with a notched trowel.
2. At the boards of the first row, cut the edge.
3. Assemble the coating in the standard manner, knocking it down with a bar and loading it with a load for better adhesion or fixing it with hardware that is “driven” into the lock groove at an angle of 45 °. In the same way, the parquet is fastened to the base with nails or air gun studs without an adhesive compound.

After completion of all work, many manufacturers recommend washing the floor by special means for parquet and parquet boards, so that the wax contained in them reliably seals all joints.

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