The floor on the logs is a commonly used design in both wooden houses and apartments. The advantages are undoubted: such a device allows you to use different materials for rough flooring, insulation and sound insulation. They can level any base, and under the floor to hold any engineering Communication. The option is simple in execution, affordable, and the result is a structure that creates a minimum load on the foundation or floor slabs.
When installing such a floor on a concrete base, the question inevitably arises of how to connect such different physical properties materials. Another no less interesting topic, which is discussed on construction forums - is it necessary to attach logs to the floor at all?
Opponents of fastening argue that such a procedure can destroy the screed, in addition, at the junction of the lag and the base, sound insulation is disturbed and so-called sound transmission bridges appear, and the neighbors below will definitely not like this. But supporters of rigid fixation give examples from their practice, when the deformation of wooden beams nullified all efforts to repair the floor.
How is it really? As for the destruction of the screed, then it will not work with a drill, drilling holes in the concrete, if the screed is strong enough. A solid foundation is one of mandatory conditions, without which they do not proceed to repair the floor. old screed if it has already begun to fall apart, be sure to remove it.
The soundproofing issue is debatable. Yes, indeed, rigid structures are capable of transmitting sound, but is it really that bad? A layer of insulation is laid in the cells between the lags, which has soundproofing properties.
A shock-absorbing pad is placed under the lag supports, which also prevents the propagation of sound waves. The sound transmission bridge formed at the place of fasteners transmits vibrations into concrete, and this material is quite dense and does not conduct sound as well as, for example, wood. Therefore, the neighbors below are unlikely to feel the difference in the noise level before and after the repair.
The floor on the logs is a structure consisting of many elements: beams, fasteners, rough flooring. All these parts, moving relative to each other, will emit a constant creak, which is much worse and the neighbors will no longer like it. One way to avoid unpleasant creaking is to firmly fasten the lag to the floor.
Another argument in favor of fastening is lag fixation. It is impossible to check the degree of drying of the tree by eye, so you have to trust the seller. If the boards are not dry enough, they can bend and twist after a while, and this will lead to shifts in the coating, so everything complex device will be skewed.
Those who are still afraid can stop at a traditional floating floor, that is, a system in which the flooring does not have a rigid connection with the supporting structures. This guarantees excellent sound insulation, but requires well-dried logs, which will definitely not lead over time.
The rigidity of the floating floor is given by the beams securely fastened to each other, forming a lattice. A heater is placed in its cells, and a rough flooring is attached on top, so that the entire structure will be pressed to the floor by its own weight. If everything is done correctly, then such a floor will not deform over time and will last a long time.
However, most often the lags are still attached to the floor: there are more positive moments than possible disadvantages.
Work order
- The main thing on which the success of the repair will depend - quality materials. Coniferous wood is suitable for logs, the humidity of which is not more than 18%. The purchased bars must be brought home and allowed to lie in the room for several days so that the material gets used to the microclimate of the room. Those of the logs that began to bend in the heat - discard. By the way, all the wooden elements of the future floor must be treated with an antiseptic so that they do not mold and insects do not start in them. It also needs processing. special formulations reducing flammability.
- Prepare the floor: remove all debris, wipe cracks, knock down obvious protrusions. Be sure to apply waterproofing since the tree must be protected from moisture. For this, hydrophobic mastics, penetrating compounds, roll materials and even thick film.
- You will need to stock up on tools, fasteners and substrates to raise the log. The substrates must be rigid, not sagging over time, in order to prevent the occurrence of play at the support points. Thin boards, pieces of plywood will fit, and in construction stores you can buy special substrates made of plastic.
- The logs are laid perpendicular to the sunlight falling through the window. Wood is subject to temperature deformations, and with such laying, each log will warm up evenly. In rooms where there is a certain direction of movement, for example, a hallway, the logs are laid across it. This will make the floor more durable.
- Arrangement pitch bars depends on the thickness of the rough coating. The thicker and stronger the sheets, the less often you can lay logs. Usually this distance is 40-50 cm. In this case, the extreme bars are placed 2-3 cm from the wall, and the rest, depending on the width of the room.
- When the entire crate is assembled, it is taken out to horizontal plane. Perfect option- the presence of a flat base, some especially diligent craftsmen even perform a thin cement-sand screed. Of course, if the height difference allows. However, the lags are good because they allow you to level even the most imperfect floor, so you can do without a screed. In those places where the beam needs to be raised, substrates are laid under it until the level shows the presence of a plane.
- Under all supports it is necessary to put a gasket - a piece of roofing material, linoleum or polyethylene foam. It will act as a shock absorber and also provide additional waterproofing to the tree. Under no circumstances should gaskets be soft material! It will sag over time from the load, which will lead to the appearance of backlash, and as a result, to creaking and other sounds of friction of the structural elements.
Now that the lag system is completely ready, it remains to attach them to the floor. The fastening itself is carried out in three ways: dowels + self-tapping screws, anchor fasteners and galvanized corners with self-tapping screws. Which one to prefer is a matter of budget and personal preferences of the developer, since each method has its own characteristics.
Video - How to lay logs
Fastening the lag with self-tapping screws
Perhaps the simplest and cheap option for excellent results. Through holes are drilled in the bars, and symmetrical at the base are made through them. A plastic dowel is inserted there and a self-tapping screw is screwed. Step - 40-80 cm, depending on the situation.
The length of the self-tapping screw depends on the thickness of the beam and should allow it to go into the base by 5-6 cm. By the way, some craftsmen recommend self-tapping screws with a neck, that is, those in which the thread does not reach the cap. This will allow you to better pull the lag to the floor.
Fastening lag anchors
Anchors guarantee the reliability and durability of fastening. Their main advantage in this case is that they not only hold the beam in place, but also attract it to the floor, imparting additional rigidity to the structure.
In fact, the anchor is the same dowel, but more powerful. Its advantage is pull-out resistance, so it is used in the installation of heavy structures that create a high load on the fasteners. The floor laid on the logs, most likely, will not have such situations when its entire complex structure will be completely torn off from the concrete surface, so you can limit yourself to self-tapping screws, but the use of anchors is a very common practice.
Mounting is carried out in the same way as in the previous case. Holes are drilled in the logs, which are then duplicated on a concrete base. The logs additionally need to be countersunk to hide the bolt head without damaging the wood.
As a rule, on the scale of a room, 3-4 anchors are enough to fix one log. The locking part of the anchor is inserted into the floor holes, and the bolt itself is screwed into it through the beam.
The length of the anchor bolts can be very different, from 45 to 200 mm. You need to buy those that will go deep into the base, stitching through the log, by 6 cm. The recommended diameter is 10 mm.
Galvanized metal corners- Another option is to attach wooden beams to concrete floor. For this, one side of the corner is connected to a beam, twisting a self-tapping screw into a tree. Depth - 3-4 cm, and it is recommended to do it at an angle to increase strength.
The remaining side of the corner should rest on the floor. It is fixed on this basis by the methods already described above: dowels or anchors. Alternatively, you can use not the corners, but the U-shaped profile.
An adjustable system is more expensive, but easier to use and will make it easier to achieve levelness. Here, instead of anchors, plastic racks are used, screwed into a tree and attached to the base with dowels. The height can be adjusted by turning special bolts, the protruding part of which is cut off after the adjustment is completed.
So, to fix the logs to the floor or not - you have to decide on your own. In wooden houses, this should definitely not be done, but as for rooms with concrete base- then the mount will not interfere. The technology is simple and accessible to everyone, the main thing in such work is to choose high-quality materials and strictly follow all the rules. Then none of the structural elements will loosen over time, and the floor on the logs will turn out to be reliable and durable.
Video - Fastening the log to the concrete floor
The question of how to attach logs to a concrete floor does not lose its relevance, since many homeowners prefer this particular method of installation. floor covering. No matter, wooden house or brick, floors on logs will always have an advantage due to the ability to lay a heat and sound insulating layer. The main thing is to do all the work correctly in order to get a reliable foundation and flat surface.
Preparatory stage
The surface of the rough concrete layer will never be perfectly flat. The advantage of the lag is that they make it possible to level out all the flaws of the concrete base. Some homeowners are hesitant about whether to fix the joists to the concrete floor or whether it is better to make a “floating” structure independent of the base. As an argument, the possible destruction of the screed is given, and a strong distortion of the structure in the case when the wood is wet.
The base made according to the technology will not crumble, otherwise it must be dismantled altogether. No one is safe from insufficiently dried wood, but the coating may swell in places from deformation, regardless of whether the bars are fixed or not. By the way, the appearance of the wooden bars used as a log does not play any role. From above, you still need to lay a floor covering, it will close all the flaws. The following points are important:
- Wood should have a moisture content of no more than 20%.
- The bars should be checked for curvature and sorted, if any.
- In order to increase the service life, the wood should be impregnated with an antiseptic agent or, according to the old proven method, covered with drying oil.
- The height of the bar must not be less than the thickness of the heat-insulating layer.
To exclude the occurrence of dust, a deep-penetrating primer must be applied to the subfloor, and then a waterproofing layer should be laid. There is different variants, optimal - lay a layer of roofing material with a careful sizing of the joints with your own hands. The easiest way is to cover the base with a polymer film overlap. Then the joints must be glued with special adhesive tape.
If you attach the logs incorrectly, then such an unpleasant phenomenon as a creak may appear. During operation, it is difficult to find it, but it is quite possible to avoid it during installation. Care must be taken to ensure that the vertical planes do not touch. wooden parts. During the application of a dynamic load in this place, the planes will rub against each other, making a creak.
It is unacceptable that the end of one lag rests on the second, it is necessary to leave a gap between them, and it is also impossible to fasten them with corners.
Mounting methods
To independently fix the logs on the concrete floor, you need to take such a tool:
- perforator;
- electric drill;
- screwdriver;
- standard set of locksmith tools: hammer, screwdriver, pliers, open-end wrenches;
- measuring devices, building level.
To regulate the lag in height (in order to bring them into the same plane), you need to stock up wooden spacers different thickness. There are also special plastic kits that are very convenient for installation. The interval for laying the bars usually lies within 0.4-0.5 m, the distance from the wall is 30 mm. First, logs are laid near the walls, and then the rest are evenly distributed over the area of the room. Before fixing, they are brought out in one plane, using gaskets. It is not necessary to screw the latter to the floor. After reconciliation, they begin to fix the lag.
For work, you can use 4 ways of fastening:
- Using plastic dowels and screws.
- On self-tapping screws steel corners.
- On anchors.
- With the help of special regulating systems on dowels.
Fixing with self-tapping screws
The first method is the easiest, but it will not work in all situations. First, the timber is drilled to the size of the plastic dowel and a reciprocal hole is made in the concrete with a perforator. The dowel is hammered with a hammer, and then a self-tapping screw is screwed in or the dowel-nail is seated deep into the ceiling. In this case, the head of the screw should plunge into the hole by several centimeters. The interval between the attachment points is a fairly democratic value, it is allowed from 400 to 800 mm, but this should not be abused. You can't go wrong with a step of 0.5 m.
The lags will hold quite securely, but only if the gap between the bar and the base is small. It is also very inconvenient to work with lags whose height is 10 cm or more. In such scenarios, it will be more reliable to fix the bars with the help of steel corners. One shelf part falls on vertical plane logs, the second - on a concrete surface. Fixation is carried out with short self-tapping screws to the tree and dowel-nails to the floor. Nevertheless, the main load should not fall on the fasteners, but on the gaskets, the task of the corners is to fix the beam.
Anchor mounting
Unlike previous types of fasteners, anchors not only rigidly fix the logs, but also attract the timber to the concrete surface. Wooden beams installed in this way will hold very securely, which is why anchors are used by the vast majority of craftsmen. In addition, such a powerful fastener to a certain extent will restrain the deformation of the wood if it was previously not dried enough.
Thanks to this, the floor covering will not swell, but it can bend, but here it is necessary to provide for more frequent installation gaskets.
For installation, the first step is to drill a hole through the lag. Then, opposite it, the second is performed, in concrete. Then everything is simple: an anchor bolt is inserted into both holes until it stops and is twisted with an open-end or spanner wrench. It is important not to overdo it here, a strong tightening will lead to a bend in the timber, especially when there is a gap under it. At this point, the finished floors will come out with a recess.
Before inserting the anchor, it is recommended to make a small indentation in the tree with a drill larger diameter- sweat for the bolt head. The elements are placed at intervals of 0.6-1 m, their length should be sufficient to go deep into the concrete by 60 mm. Bolts with a diameter of 10 mm are most often used.
Adjustable system
This type of fastener is a rectangular stand, attracted to the base with 4 dowels. In the middle of the stand there is a hairpin penetrating the beam through and through. Turning the nut under wooden beam you can fine-tune its height, and the top one can fix the log in the design position. As it is easy to understand, it is not difficult to install the system, it must be fixed to the floor with dowels, and a hole for the stud should be drilled in the beam.
The frequency of mounting the supports is determined by the cross section of the log, but it is not recommended to make an interval of more than 1 m. Such fastening of the log to the concrete floor is considered optimal, but is not used so often due to the high cost. At the end, the bars are covered with a rough wooden floor made of OSB boards or other material or sewn up with boards. The type of the entire floor covering depends on how well it will be possible to carry out these works, they must be approached responsibly.
Wooden floors are convenient solution. They are environmentally friendly, durable, natural and have beautiful view. But what about the owners of apartments and houses in which a concrete floor is poured? How is the installation of wooden floor joists on a concrete floor? In fact, this technology has been worked out, and now we will consider it.
Rigid fastening of the lag to the concrete floor
Floor construction on logs
The floor on the logs is a design that consists of several functional elements, among them the mandatory ones:
- base;
- bars;
- flooring.
Between the bars and the finishing floor, a subfloor can also be installed, but only in private houses where there is room for deepening, because such a tiering takes the height of the room.
For correct installation rigid fastening of the base beams is required to avoid deformations and shifts of the finished floor, creaking. Although there are opponents of this technique, who give arguments regarding the violation of thermal insulation and the destruction of the concrete screed.
The formation of a floating floor, that is, without fastening it to the screed, can lead to a shift in the coating. And this is fraught with additional installation costs.
The assumption about the deterioration of sound insulation is unfounded, since during installation materials for insulation and sound insulation are used. And concrete itself is not considered a conductor of sounds. Therefore, after laying a new floor covering, its sound is unlikely to change.
Another argument about the destruction of concrete also has no clear justification. If the screed is of high quality, then drilling will not harm it, much less destroy it. If such defects are found, then you will have to re-prepare the subfloor, because a low-quality one will not withstand even minimal loads.
floor leveling self-leveling compounds What do you need to know before starting work?
Before attaching the logs to the concrete floor, it is recommended to understand the specifics of such work, select the right materials and tools. The main thing is the choice of wood, that is, bars. The strength and durability of the structure, its performance, the load that it can withstand depends on this.
Material selection criteria
- Humidity. The material must be dry, with a moisture content of not more than 18%, and this does not depend on the size or type of wood. Such humidity is considered natural, so there should not be any difficulties in selecting suitable logs for mounting boards. When moistened or dried out in the future, the material will “lead”, and the bars will deform the finished floor.
- Lumber type. In this case, the type of wood is not critical, because the log has many support points, and their number can be increased if necessary. In addition, their appearance under the floor does not matter. That is, bars of 2 and even 3 grades are suitable. If there is a knot over the area of the material, which can affect the strength, an additional support is mounted under it.
- Section. A wooden floor on a concrete base will last a long time, provided correct selection sections of support beams. It should be rectangular, aspect ratio ½ or 2/3. In this case, the logs are mounted on the edge. In this position, the beam is most resistant to vertical load. Another condition for choosing a section is the ability to lay right amount insulation, because in the case of installation on a concrete base, this is important.
- Breed. Optimal solution- coniferous material. Pine and even spruce are available and have the required specifications. Larch should be used in rooms where it is possible high humidity.
- Treatment. Each beam is treated with fire retardants and bioprotection before installation - this will extend their service life.
Waterproofing on concrete floor Important! After selection, the material is prepared for laying. Each beam is checked for irregularities, bevels, protrusions. If they are found, they are removed with a planer. To do this when the bars are already laid will not work.
Tools
Preparation is half the battle, and if the material is already there, now it remains to find the tools for fastening wooden lag to the floor. Since concrete and wood are involved in the work, the entire set is designed to work with these materials. Minimum list:
- perforator;
- anchors - fasteners are selected depending on the size of the beam, its section;
- self-tapping screws - their diameter is 6 mm, the length also depends on the parameters of the wood, dowels should come with them;
- carpentry tools: hacksaw, planer, circular.
The second and third item of the set are interchangeable. Self-tapping screws will cost less, and with their help you can qualitatively install the lag. As for anchors, although they are more expensive, their number is square meter less. At the same time, laying the lag will go faster because you have to drill less. What to choose depends on the time and financial possibilities.
Beam level control Foundation preparation
During installation wooden flooring on logs you need to take care of a flat base. It is recommended to pre-level it if there are differences in level. An uneven concrete floor will be projected by an equally uneven wooden floor. It is difficult to qualitatively lay bars on such a base. For alignment, special bulk mixtures, which is also called self-leveling. After using them, the concrete in the base will become even without much effort.
Fastening bars
Fastening the lag to the concrete floor is carried out according to the following algorithm:
- Waterproofing is laid on the concrete floor. It is more convenient to use plastic wrap, but roofing material is also suitable. The canvases are fixed to each other and brought to the walls to a height of at least 10-15 cm. The joints are glued with special adhesive tape.
Floor elements on joists on concrete - Next, the bars are laid out with a predetermined step, it should be uniform, while the distance from the wall to the first bar is not more than 15 cm. The distance between the lags should not exceed 80 cm. It all depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and the load on the future coating. The distance between the lags also depends on the thickness of the floor board: the thicker it is, the wider the beams can be fixed.
- Before you put the logs in a spacious room, you will have to think over the system for joining the support elements to each other. For this, metal plates, iron corners and other fasteners can be used.
- The first to attach the logs to the walls. They are laid in the place where they will be placed, and leveled, if necessary, then trim the height with wooden slats.
Note! In order for the beams to lie flat between each other, it is recommended to use laser level.
Insulation between lags with expanded clay - Now holes for mounting are drilled at the base of the concrete floor and in the timber. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws or anchors. For the first fasteners, a step of at least 40-60 cm is observed, as for anchors, their number can be reduced by 2 times.
- After you managed to attach the first 2 beams, a nylon thread is pulled between them - this is the level of overlap along which you need to mount the rest. Such a landmark should be stretched at 3-4 points along the length of the beam.
Installation of plywood sheets on wooden logs - The remaining logs are fixed according to the same mechanism as the first two, while maintaining the level set by the nylon thread.
After installation along the logs, insulation is carried out in the space between them and the vapor barrier is laid. Now the base is ready for the installation of floorboards.
Control measurement of the level and distance between the lags Conclusion
The technology of fastening wooden logs to a concrete floor is simple, it is quite possible to implement it with your own hands. But at the same time, strict adherence to the laying stages is important, because this affects the durability of the operation of the future floor and its strength.
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laminatepol.ru
How to fix the logs to concrete?
During installation wooden floor use lags. Their installation allows you to level any surface and additionally insulate the room.
Logs are frame fastenings from boards, which, in addition to the main function, solve the following tasks: Evenly distribute the load of the floor;
Form a niche in which you can hide wires and other engineering structures;
Improve sound insulation;
Regulate the air circulation in the apartment.
At the first stage, it is necessary to disassemble the old floor to a concrete base and clean the room from debris and dust. Before proceeding with the installation of the log, the screed should be leveled. The permissible deviation is 0.1%, that is, no more than one millimeter per meter.
Next, you need to wait until the floor dries. According to the requirements, its humidity should not exceed 12%. You can check that the floor is ready by attaching a piece of film to the floor with tape and pressing something heavy on top. Then, twenty-four hours later, inspect the floor surface. If it darkens, then the floor is not yet dry enough.
After making sure that the screed is dry, you can proceed with the installation of the flooring. First of all, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer, which can be made in the form of a film of polyethylene foam or ground mastic. 
The next step involves mounting the lag. For this, non-planed boards are used, the cross section of which is 50x100 mm. Boards must be dry and level. Their length should not be less than two meters. The material should be prepared in advance. After the acquisition, let it rest for two weeks. Some boards may go screw, which will not be suitable for further use. Therefore, you need to purchase material with a margin, calculating the required volume.
Then the log is laid around the perimeter. To ensure their even position, pre-prepared substrates made of chipboard or plywood, cut into small pieces measuring 15x20 cm, should be placed.
It is advisable to lay linoleum under the substrate, which will not only take on all the loads, but also provide sufficient sound insulation. When installing the log, it is necessary to provide a gap to the walls of about 20 millimeters. At the locations of the substrates, the logs are fastened with anchors to the concrete floor.
After that, you can proceed to the flooring of the remaining boards, observing intervals of forty centimeters. In order to keep the level in the future, you can pull the threads on the already laid logs.
After installing the lag, perform the crate. The boards are laid across the log on the substrate and attached with self-tapping screws to the logs and concrete slab. The crossbars should be located at a distance of about half a meter from each other. 
Sheets are laid on logs and fixed with self-tapping screws. The gaps left between the sheets are sealed with mastic. It is pressed into the seam, and then rubbed with a spatula.
After the preparation of the first layer, the installation of the second is carried out. The sheets are placed offset, closing the seams of the first flooring level. For attachment, in addition to self-tapping screws, glue is additionally used. The seams are also treated with mastic.
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www.laspihills.com
Very often in houses and apartments they make a concrete floor base, there are many options for arranging such a coating. You can use various insulating, insulating and flooring materials, you can install a "warm floor" system, but installing a log is popular today, despite the presence large selection flooring methods.
Logs allow you to level the floor in the house.
This is a fairly simple way to arrange a floor covering, the installation of bars can be done independently and allows you to use cheap, but no less effective heaters.
Materials and tools needed to do the job
A concrete floor is a very strong base, and various fasteners and tools can be used to attach the joists to it. A feature of this fastener is that you need to have tools for working with both wood and concrete.
Now the option is often used when the logs are not attached to the concrete floor, in this case the log beams are fastened with floorboards. The disadvantage of this flooring is that flooring during operation, it can shift, so experts recommend nevertheless attaching them to the floor. The easiest way is to choose the most common method and fasten the logs to the floor using anchor fasteners or long screws.
Anchors securely and firmly hold the logs.
When choosing a log, you need to pay attention to the type of wood, dimensions beam and its cost. For the installation of such a floor, it is enough to purchase coniferous wood, since it is quite durable and inexpensive, wood of grades 2 and 3 is suitable, its humidity should be no more than 20%. The size of the cross section of the bars will depend on the height of the ceiling and the thickness of the insulation used.
Tools for work:
- perforator;
- self-tapping screws with a diameter of at least 6 mm, while they must enter the concrete floor by at least 6-8 cm, or metal anchors, whose length depends on the size of the log;
- planer, hacksaw, a circular saw to work with wood.
The choice between self-tapping screws and anchor fastenings depends on your financial capabilities. If we talk about self-tapping screws, then they are cheaper, but the strength of such a connection is somewhat less. Anchor fastenings allow not only to securely fix the logs, but also to press them to the floor. This is important if the finished floor is quite massive and regular high mechanical influences.
Before installing the beams on a concrete base, waterproofing must be laid, roofing material or dense polyethylene film. It is also necessary to purchase a mixture for priming and treating the fungus. In that case when concrete screed uneven, it is necessary that the material for the linings be available. Pieces of plywood, boards or chipboard can act as it.
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Attaching logs to a concrete floor is quite simple, and this process does not take much time, you can do everything yourself.
The main stages of fastening:
Installation diagram.
- laid on the concrete surface waterproofing material if there are joints, then they must be glued with adhesive tape;
- lags are placed on the floor surface: two are placed near the walls, the rest at a certain step, which depends on the rigidity of the flooring material, but on average it is 0.4-0.8 m;
- if the length is not enough, then it is necessary to lay end-to-end;
- a level is set on the extreme beams and a cord is pulled between them, the rest of the logs are installed along it;
- to fix the bars, a hole is drilled in the log and concrete and a plastic dowel or expansion part of the anchor is inserted;
- if they are fastened with anchors, then 2-3 of them are enough for one beam, self-tapping screws must be screwed in after 0.5-0.7 m;
- to align the bars in height, use gaskets.
http://youtu.be/sZlArlf3vBA
Now you just have to lay the insulation on top of it vapor barrier material- and you can do the flooring flooring. If you lay the flooring in your house or apartment according to the indicated principle, you will get a warm, durable and robust design. Good luck!
kuhnyamoya.ru
Fastening the lag to the concrete floor
When building houses made of wood, builders often ask themselves the question of fixing a beam to a concrete floor, because these are two different material, which means that the mounting technique will be different. A wooden beam is fixed using two methods: overhead installation and rigid fixation. Fastening the log to the concrete floor will not only increase the thermal insulation of the premises, but also hide possible unevenness of the concrete coating.
Appointments
Before installation decorative coating on the floors of buildings and structures, apply the fastening of beams to the surface of concrete mortar. Using lags, the frame comes out High Quality suitable for further laying of coatings. In addition to the fact that the bars are an intermediate structural element, they also have the following purposes:
- provide the room with additional air flow;
- create sound absorption in the room;
- increase thermal insulation, thereby reducing heating costs;
- allow you to hide engineering communications;
- create uniform loads on the foundation;
- provide the surface with a smooth structure, which is necessary for the finish coat.
To attach logs to a concrete surface, first you need to observe a certain gap between them. A board with a thickness is used, from which the step size will be repelled when laying the beams on concrete. So, a board, the thickness of which is two centimeters, is fixed on the beams in increments of 200 mm.
How to choose the right material?
In order not to miscalculate with the choice of material, consider the following points:
- price;
- section in lags;
- grade;
- the tree from which the logs are made;
- length.
If the budget is limited, it is not necessary to buy expensive wood. Fir, spruce have no less service life, if the material is processed correctly. It is not necessary to choose a flat surface and solid color, these figures are irrelevant. However, it is important to pay attention to the humidity, which should not exceed 20%. The material is kept at home for a year before use, this will allow the lag to take the humidity of the room and dry out.
Tools
To attach the logs to the concrete surface, you need to use tools for both wood and concrete. The following tools are used:
- jigsaw;
- perforator;
- chisel;
- anchors, self-tapping screws.
For the installation of an anchor frame for floors with lags, the following tools are used:
- hacksaw;
- building level;
- perforator.
You can fix the adjustable frame in a concrete field using the following tools:
- chisel;
- finisher;
- laser level;
- screwdriver;
- drill and drill;
- a hammer.
To fix the concrete floor to the lags, choose fasteners based on the budget. Self-tapping screws are cheaper than anchors, but the latter are more reliable. Anchor fasteners allow you to attach wooden beam to the floor surface, pressing it, this is important when erecting a massive concrete surface.
Mounting methods
To fasten the log with a concrete floor, two types of beam laying are used. One of them is the lack of fixing the lags to the floor. This method provides structural rigidity by fastening the lag to each other using a board. The disadvantage of this method is the possibility of shifting the floor covering. In order not to encounter such a problem, the lag is fastened to the surface with anchors, corners or self-tapping screws.
Another way of fastening is to fasten the lags to the concrete surface. Installation includes application thermal insulation materials and floor leveling solutions. This lag installation option will save on expensive materials for isolation.
self-tapping screws
Fixing bars in concrete pavement with the help of self-tapping screws significantly reduces the price of the structure and simplifies the installation work. To do this, holes are made through the board with a drill, and points are marked through them at the base of the floor. This is necessary to make recesses in the coating and screw in the screws. The installation step should be within 4-8 centimeters. The distance between the holes is affected by the design being made. Self-tapping screws are used long, depending on the thickness of the beam, but it should not be less than 0.5 cm. Experienced builders advise choosing self-tapping screws that have a so-called neck, which means that there is no thread in front of the head, which allows you to better attract the board to the floor surface .
Anchors
When used in the construction of an anchor, a greater resistance against pulling out is provided. Which justifies the high price of the material. Their use is relevant in the construction of heavy structures with a large load on fasteners. Installation of anchor fasteners on a concrete surface is carried out according to the following instructions:
- Holes are made in the board with a drill and marks are marked on the concrete through them. I make the same holes in the log, so that later I can hide the bolt heads in them.
- Using an anchor, it is provided secure fastening beams.
- Next, the locking elements of the anchor are placed in the resulting holes in the floor base, after which the bolt is screwed into them.
- The length of the fastener is different, and can vary from 45 mm to 200 mm. The thickness of the beams affects the length and diameter of the anchor fastener.
corners
Fixing wooden bars with corners is as follows:
- One of the sides of the corner is attached to wooden base screws. The depth of insertion should be at least 0.3 cm.
- When fastening, you need to rest the free side of the corner on the floor. It must be fixed with dowels, in the same way as fastening anchors and self-tapping screws, that is, make through marks and insert dowels into them and screw in self-tapping screws.
Mounting adjustable logs
Mounting adjustable log. Installation of a floor base using adjustable logs is relevant today due to its significant number of advantages. These include:
- exclusion of surface irregularities;
- the flaws of the base of the floor in the form of cracks are hidden;
- soundproofing and thermal insulation are provided;
- protection against fungus and rot is obtained.
Highly reliable fastening is obtained due to the presence of plastic bolt-racks, which are a fastening and adjustable element. This design allows you to make a wooden floor on a concrete base of decent quality in a short time.
A significant advantage this mount is the possibility of adjustable lag to prevent the appearance of fungi and mold. This happens due to ventilation features mounts. Using adjustable logs, it becomes possible to hide engineering communications. And possible thermal insulation will reduce heating costs.
Installation process and features
The process of attaching the lag to the floor. Fastening the log to the concrete base can be done with your own hands, there are many ways of fastening. In order for the structure to come out strong and reliable, you need to follow the installation recommendations and follow the sequence of actions:
- First you need to apply on wood antiseptic and cover with primer. They begin to install the lag only after the completion of the preparation stage.
- Lay a waterproofing layer on the floor. In this case, it is necessary to process the joints and prevent the occurrence of cracks. Suitable for waterproofing polyethylene film or roofing material.
- Next comes the fastening of the lags. The step between them depends on the strength of the flooring.
- As soon as the bars are laid, they begin to level them. This can be done using the building level.
- After that, the mounting process begins. They do it in a bar through hole to the floor and fix them with screws.
- Sometimes special plywood is used between the lags and the insulation layer to give evenness to the structure. This will avoid deflection of the structure.
There is nothing difficult in attaching a log to a concrete floor, the main thing is to choose the right materials and not save on them.
Appropriateness of fastening lags to a concrete floor
If it is necessary to install a wooden floor on a concrete surface, use only possible variant- this is fastening with lags. The work process is not easy, as it includes a large number of materials used and compliance with the sequence of certain stages of construction. But according to experienced builders, even beginners can handle fastening bars to a concrete floor. The use of such fasteners is due to a number of advantages, as well as the speed of installation, the main thing is to follow the technological process.
Conclusion
As a result, fixing wood coverings on a concrete base with lags is almost a panacea in the construction of houses. After all, attaching a beam to a wooden base is not difficult, but with concrete floors, things are more complicated. It is necessary to choose the right type of fastener, which depends on the evenness of the base and the thickness of the bar.
It is important, when placing engineering communications between the lags, to take into account some rules and requirements:
- The wiring must be placed in metal pipe to be covered insulating materials. This will help protect the tree from possible moisture that will appear on the pipes at the time of operation.
- Lay heat and sound insulation boards based on polystyrene between the bars.
- Finally, the floor covering is installed.
The construction of the bars is possible both for the installation of a subfloor and for finishing. When choosing a material, you need to build on it appearance, high cost and own preferences.
Two weeks ago I put plywood on the logs, the screed was present.Sweep and prime with penetrating primer
- With a water level we transfer the floor mark from under front door, taking into account the clean floor (which now, in general, is unknown what it will be, so I took the maximum margin - 2 cm). We transfer to the wall, raising it by 1 m.
- We make several level marks +100 mm on the walls with a water level.
- Starting down from the +100 marks, we draw a height contour (-18 mm) on the walls along the perimeter
- Calculate and draw on a sheet of paper the scheme of laying plywood sheets and the log - taking into account that the joints (longitudinal or transverse) of the sheets should lie on the log, etc.
- We form linings for logs from 1 layer of glassine (to the screed) and pieces of fiberboard 3.5 (as well as layered fiberboard) 8 by 12 cm in size.
- Approximately we lay the extreme log on the lining, then with a level and a tape measure we achieve three parameters - height (the contour on the wall helps), horizontality and the desired distance from the walls
- having stepped on the log, we drill the log, lining and screed through the win 6.0x300, insert the plastic dowel at 6, and using the "thick" long (4x90) self-tapping screw as a doboy, drive the dowel all the way with a hammer. We unscrew the self-tapping screw, screw in a 3.5-thick self-tapping screw of suitable length, tighten it, the head sinks in the log by 1-1.5 cm.
- With even planed lags, you can step over one self-tapping screw and screw in the next one, the rest later.
- We fix the log at the opposite wall
- We fasten the intermediate logs, checking the thread stretched between the extreme ones. You can lay logs through one, and then without a thread - at a level of 1 m or a short rule.
- Install all lags
- We lay glassine between the lags
- We put noise insulation on glassine (something like a thick synthetic winterizer, although after a long search we found something natural, which we were glad about)
- For each log from above over the entire surface double sided tape we fix 2 mm sound insulation (something like thin dense foam rubber)
- We put a sheet of plywood according to the scheme
- We impose on the plywood area above the lag a pattern of fiberboard - 152cm x4cm strip with holes on equal distance, mark the drilling points with a pencil.
- We insert a 3 mm drill into the drill until it stops - so that only 25 millimeters sticks out, we drill a hole until it stops, while the lower edge of the cartridge countersinks a hole for the screw.
- We screw 41-45 mm self-tapping screws until the head is completely buried.
- Before laying an adjacent sheet in those places where the second joint fundamentally falls into the space between the lags, we fasten (in advance!) A small bar of 10 cm exactly in the middle, the protruding part of which will be a support for the adjacent sheet, which is also screwed to it.
- Look like that's it...
Important:
- We put plywood apart
- When splicing the lag, we do not allow the repetition of the splicing place on neighboring ones in order to avoid the effect of "folding"
- At the stages of laying the lag, it is very useful to sometimes impose a sheet of plywood and see how it all turns out in reality
- When splicing the lag, we do not allow line violations - we splice by applying additional. bar on the side - so as not to guess later where to screw
- In case of an uneven screed, when choosing the level of the subfloor, we take into account the level of the highest point - so that even when the log is trimmed, it does not become thinner than 30 mm.
- In the case of laying on slabs, cleaning and foaming of joints are added to the work
- About the bundle was recently posted
- Sometimes (always?) already after fixing the lag, in some places you find differences in height (the level "mumbles"). To straighten the "holes" we use additional. fiberboard gaskets with a cut to the middle (so as not to completely unscrew the screw), to straighten the bumps, either we pull out the excess, or we clean off these miserable 0.5 mm with large sandpaper. We even built a "two-handed" nazhd for this purpose. on the bar - very effective. Maybe because there was no planer in this apartment :)))
After leveling the log, the level of 1m, after a small push, slid freely across the log without stumbling - it’s very nice to watch :))) The black floor itself almost does not sound (and they were very afraid of it), and after laying the finishing (any) I think it will completely calm down.
Pine logs (dry ???) 50x50 and 50x40, distances between logs 35-45 cm, plywood FK 18, non-sanded, lag fastening pitch - 50 cm, pitch of self-tapping screws on plywood - 16 cm.
A lot of me taken from a respected forum.
I won’t write about my wife’s exclusives like “pouring a bottle of lavender oil evenly on the soundproofing under the floor”, implemented by us - this is an amateur :))))
I will be glad if it helps, as well as if there are additional. questions.
Photo here:
http://mfoto.ru/ru/470797778
And, of course, the inevitable criticism...
Sincerely,
Laying a wooden floor on a concrete base is a common way to create a warm, well-ventilated structure that can serve as a finishing coat when using tongue and groove boards or be an excellent base for a finish. facing material. At the stage of manufacturing such a floor, the question arises: what is the best way to fix the lag to the concrete floor? This will be discussed in today's material.
Despite the fact that the advantages of creating a flooring with lags rigidly fixed to the base are obvious, there are opponents of this method, who argue that in this way it is possible to damage the integrity and violate the sound insulation of the room due to the formation of acoustic bridges at the places where the fasteners are installed.
If the screed is destroyed during drilling, then this indicates its poor quality and should serve as a signal to dismantle it completely and fill in a new one. A well-made screed does not change its integrity when drilling holes in it with a drill.
Regarding soundproofing: a rigid structure transmits sound waves, but if you consider that between the lags is laid insulation material, which dampens the sound, then this statement can be considered controversial. Moreover, concrete denser than wood, and therefore the sound that is transmitted through the acoustic bridge to the concrete base will not reach the neighbors from below.
One of the nuances of wooden flooring along the logs is the possibility of a creak, which becomes audible even to the neighbors below. This occurs when the structural elements (beams, logs and fasteners) are displaced relative to each other. With a rigid fixation of the lag to the concrete base, these troubles can be avoided.
Important! If the logs are not rigidly fixed, and their moisture content, declared by the seller, is not true, then soon, due to the wood warping process, the floor structure will begin to deform and shift.
Proponents of abandoning the rigid fastening of the log prefer floating floor designs when the flooring is not fixed to load-bearing structures. In this case, it is necessary to carefully approach the choice of lag material. The stability of the floating structure will be given by a special fastening of the bars to each other - in the form of a lattice, in the voids of which insulation material is placed.
- Process of creation quality flooring on lags depends on the right material. The most preferred wood conifers, since it better resists moisture, contains natural antiseptics in its composition, and therefore is resistant to the formation of fungus, and also belongs to durable types of wood.
- The moisture content of the timber should not exceed 18%. Before laying, the timber must undergo an acclimatization period of several days and get used to the microclimatic conditions in the room where it will be used. If during these days some logs begin to show signs of warping, then they are rejected and not used in the floor construction.
- Before laying, the logs are treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant. It is better to do this before installation, because it is more convenient to process the whole product.
- It is important to pay attention to the choice of the direction of laying the lag relative to sun rays- the bars are laid across to ensure their uniform heating. Where the strength of the flooring is important (in rooms with high traffic), the logs are placed across the movement.
- The distance between the lags is selected in accordance with the thickness of the rough flooring. The larger it is, the greater the distance between the lags (40 - 50 cm). The distance from the wall to the beam should be 2 - 3 cm.
Materials and tools
Work on laying the floor on the logs does not require specialized equipment and tools. You will need to prepare:
- Perforator drill.
- Screwdrivers or screwdriver, hammer.
- Measuring tools - tape measure, level, pencil.
- Fasteners, depending on the method of fastening.
- Wood processing in the course of work is carried out using a planer, hacksaw or circular saw.
You will need to purchase waterproofing material, taking into account the overlap on the walls along the perimeter of the room by at least 15–20 cm.
- You should not take to heart the assurances of lumber sellers that the more expensive and higher the grade of wood, the more reliable and durable the logs made from it will be. For flooring, you can completely do with spruce, fir or pine.
- You can safely purchase wood of grade B and BC, provided that its moisture content does not exceed 18%. Minor external defects and the shade of the material can be ignored.
- The main condition is the absence of traces of insect pests (bark beetle) and mold on the surface of the wood - even its minimum amount should be a signal to refuse to purchase wood from this batch.
- The choice of the beam section occurs in accordance with the chosen thickness of the flooring and the upcoming loads.
Mounting methods
There are several of the most common ways of attaching a lag to concrete. Each of them has its own characteristics.
Fastening the lag with self-tapping screws
This method of fixing the lag, although it is the simplest, is not suitable in every case. The process is simple:
- A hole is drilled in the concrete base for a plastic dowel.
- A hole for a self-tapping screw is also drilled in a wooden element.
- The dowel is placed in concrete hole, hammering with a hammer, and fix the log by immersing the head of the self-tapping screw into the body of the wood by a few millimeters.
The step that is taken when attaching the lag in this way is at least 50 cm.
Table 1. Installation of a wooden floor with a lag fastened to self-tapping screws
| Illustration | Description |
|---|---|
 | Explicit defects on the concrete surface are sealed with mortar or mounting foam. |
 | The concrete base is dedusted and debris is removed from this surface with a vacuum cleaner. |
 | The floor is primed with a solution with antiseptic additives. |
 | Logs are pre-treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. |
 | Logs are laid in increments of 50 cm. |
 | Plastic wedges are placed under the log and with their help the element is set to the desired height. |
 | The height of the lag is controlled using a building corner or tape measure and a laser level. |
 | Drill a hole for the screw. |
 | Screw in a self-tapping screw. |
 | The wedges must be fixed in a predetermined position with foam. |
 | |
 | Lay a layer of vapor barrier. |
 | Fix OSB boards. |
Fastening the lag with anchor bolts
Fixing the log with anchors is a durable and reliable method. Additional structural rigidity is provided by pulling the beam to the surface of the base.
Anchor is a more powerful fastener than a dowel, it is able to withstand high loads. When arranging such a floor, you can be calm in its secure fixation to the concrete base. According to the technology of work, fastening a beam to an anchor is similar to fixing to self-tapping screws. Preliminarily, holes of the required diameter are drilled in the base and lags. A hole is made in the wood so that the bolt head can be hidden.
The number of fasteners is calculated taking into account the fact that an average of 4 anchors will be required to fix one beam. The bolt in the locking element, inserted into the hole in the concrete, is carried out through the wood. The length of the anchor bolts varies from 45 to 200 mm. When choosing it, 6 cm is added to the thickness of the timber for penetration into concrete. Recommended Diameter anchor bolt is 10 mm.
The popularity of anchoring is due to a more rigid fixation. wooden structure. With this fastener, you can rely on the containment of wood before the deformation process, if it has not been dried sufficiently.
Table 2. Anchor installation
| Illustration | Description |
|---|---|
 | After the anchors are driven into the concrete base, using a 13 wrench, you will need to stretch each anchor nut to secure it more securely. In this case, do not apply too much force so as not to break the thread. |
 | After that, a bottom nut is screwed onto each anchor and a washer is installed on which the lag itself will be laid. The nut is installed with the reverse side and screwed in, guided by the markings on the wall. |
 | Throw a puck on top. |
 | In the lags, a hole is drilled under the anchor's head and under its body, taking into account the spacing of the anchors. |
 | The lags are baited on the anchor. |
 | Screw the top fixing cap of the anchor. |
 | The nut is tightened in accordance with the level value. |
 | The excess fastener is cut off with a grinder. |
 | Insulation is laid in the space between the lags. |
 | Sheets of plywood are fixed to the lags. |
Fastening the lag with the help of corners
If the height of the lag exceeds 10 cm, then metal corners are used for their fastening. The corner shelf is fixed to the concrete base with dowel-nails, and to the log - with self-tapping screws. In this case, the corner is used to fix the position wooden element, and the load is distributed to the pads.
Table 3. Lag installation
| Illustration | Description |
|---|---|
 | Before attaching the corner to the log, drill a hole for the self-tapping screw. For the strength of the connection, the self-tapping screw is immersed in the wood at an angle. |
 | A hole is drilled in the concrete floor for the dowel. |
 | The dowel is immersed in the hole and the self-tapping screw is screwed in. |
 | A beam is introduced under the logs, which will allow you to fix the logs on required height and ensure ventilation of the structure. |
 | The bars are also fixed with corners to the floor. |
 | Wooden flooring is made of grooved boards. |
 | To fix the board at an angle, drill a hole for a self-tapping screw. |
 | The board is fixed with a self-tapping screw immersed in the groove at an angle of 45 degrees. |
Adjustable lags
Adjustable log system is the most in a simple way leveling device boardwalk in a room with a concrete base with a significant height difference. Anchors in this design are replaced by plastic posts, which are attached to concrete with dowels. The convenience of using plastic racks lies in the fact that you can adjust their height and the level of the lag location using special rotating bolts. Excess racks protruding above the surface of the log after adjustment are cut off.
Modern manufacturers offer universal racks that allow you to make perfectly even boardwalk in a room with a large height difference, regardless of the section of the beams. Installation takes place as follows. The supports are installed on a concrete base.
The logs are laid and, focusing on the level, they set the horizontal plane, adjusting the location of the beams using a special rack mechanism.
Universal racks are equipped with automatic tilt angle correction up to 5%.
