Do-it-yourself installation of a metal roof tile instruction. Installation of metal tiles: step-by-step instructions for self-finishing the roof. Video - Installation instructions for metal tiles

28.09.2017 0 comments

The need for reliable and high-quality overlapping of structures for various purposes is an axiom. Developers increasingly prefer metal tiles to replace classic slate and galvanized sheet. Seemingly complex laying of material, entrusted to specialists, can be successfully performed independently with helpers from among relatives and good friends. Desire, passion, presence necessary tools should be based on certain theoretical knowledge in order to obtain the expected result from the work. Theoretical points and helpful tips presented in this material.

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Coating advantages and disadvantages

In favor of choosing a metal tile, the following qualities of roofing material can be cited:

environmental friendliness - not included harmful substances and compositions;
light weight - 3.6-5.2 kg / m2;
excellent strength, achieved by the presence of structural stiffeners, gives a properly installed metal tile sheet with a thickness of 0.5 mm the ability to withstand a load of more than 200 kg / m2;
installation and repair of the roof is not difficult;
Fire safety;
Aesthetically pleasing classic look with a wide choice of material of various thicknesses, profiles, protective coatings and colors;
minimum linear expansion under the influence of temperature and high resistance to its differences.

When choosing a material, you need to know its disadvantages. Metal roofing has:

The tendency to form condensation on the surface of the sheet from the temperature difference between the outside air and the attic. For a material based on metal, this can cause corrosion processes.
Noise when hit precipitation(rain, hail) and from contact with wind-swept tree branches.

Both problems are significantly mitigated by the obligatory insulation of the roof from the attic. Insulating "pie" shifts the "dew point" outward and at the same time performs the role of sound insulation.

Calculation of material and necessary fittings

To order a complete set of materials for the arrangement of the roof, it is necessary to measure the prepared structure. To be measured:

Slope length - measured in the center and at the edges of the overhang from the ridge to the outer edge of the lower cornice board. The main indicator is considered to be the maximum with the addition of a canopy allowance.
Slope widths.
The lengths of the outer (ridges) and inner (valleys) angles and their summation.
Lengths of ridges and cornices along the perimeter of the roof structure.

All measurement results are transferred to a sketch or a roof plan. According to this sketch, a sales consultant or specialist construction company will be able to accurately calculate the required number of sheets of metal tiles various sizes. Sheets are produced in 1, 3, 6 or 10 modules (a module is a unit of area equal to one profile row of a metal tile). The selection of sheets of the required dimensions will reduce the amount of material waste when laying a roof with complex geometry.

An example of the layout of sheets of metal tiles on the 1st of the slopes of the hip roof.

When calculating the number of sheets, their useful area is taken into account, which is 8-12% less than the total area due to the overlap of the sheets with each other. Then the list is supplemented by water collectors, valleys, a ridge, snow holders, strips and sheets of steel in the color of the selected tile, and the necessary fasteners. On the roof plan, existing and planned ventilation shafts, antennas, windows (dormer, dormer), chimneys. Their finishing at the junction with the roof will also require the purchase of special fittings.

Preparatory work

Main installation work preceded by mandatory preparatory. Their importance cannot be underestimated. At this stage, check:

The correctness of the assembled truss system, the accuracy of its geometry.
The presence of crates, counter-lattices. Correspondence of the section of the molded material and the pitch of the lathing with the pitch of the rafters, the expected load, and the recommendations of the accompanying documentation of the tile manufacturer.
The presence of a solid or additional cornice crate for reliable fastening of the safety elements used (fences, snow guards).
The integrity of the insulation membranes.
The presence of additional boards for fastening skates and boards for strengthening in the valleys.
The possibility of organizing ventilation of the entire space under the roof. For this, obligatory eaves and ridge vents must be provided. If they are present, air enters the cornice part, ventilates and dries the seamy side of the metal tile from possible condensate, and is removed through the ridge zone.
Was there any processing wooden structure special means for fire and biological protection.

The device of the truss system, lathing and hydro-vapor barrier.

Main works

Step-by-step installation of metal tiles on the roof on your own.

For the provided water drainage system, brackets are mounted no further than 0.7 m from each other.
Eaves strips are nailed (step 30 cm) with galvanized nails. A waterproofing film laid under the crate is slightly let down on the bar and cut off.
The first sheet of metal tiles to be laid is leveled at the pediment and temporarily fixed with one self-tapping screw at the ridge, the other at the eaves.
The next three sheets are temporarily fixed and the whole block is aligned.
Now you need to fix all the sheets of tiles on the crate.
Further, the operation with 3-4 sheets is repeated until the entire slope is covered.
The edges of the profile of the metal tile should not reach the axis of the ridge at least 8 cm. A ventilation tape is installed on them and then ridge strips are fastened at the highest points of the profile with self-tapping screws (step 30-80 cm).
The gable plank is installed from the bottom up: the fastening step is 30-60 cm, the overlap is 5-10 cm. The plank should cover the top line of the profile wave.

Arrangement of valleys

When the full size sheets of shingles are in place, the interior corners are finished. More on preparatory stage in the valleys, additional sheathing boards were stuffed to be able to withstand the load from possible snow “bags”. Now the gutter itself from the bent sheet is laid from below to the ridge. Vertical overlap of sheets - 200 mm. The width of the sheet from the axis of the valley is 0.5 m per side.

On the laid sheets of the gutter, markings are made (10 mm on the sides of the axis of the valley), along which the sheets adjacent to the inner corner will be cut. A special seal is attached to the edges of the gutter. Cut, according to the markup, sheets of metal tiles are placed in their places and attached to the crate no closer than 0.25 m from the axis of the corner. Index correct fastening- no gaps between the tiles and the sealant and a tight fit of the sheet to the board of the crate at the attachment point. If the edges of the tile fit to the valley were cut off unevenly and with defects, do not worry. All flaws will be hidden under the installed decorative overlay.

Roofing near pipes

Pipes passing through the roof and ventilation shafts along the perimeter are lined with a wall profile made of bent galvanized sheets with a stable polymer coating. The overlap of the profiles on the pipe is at least 15 cm. They are attached to the crate under the sheets of tiles, the junction with the pipe is treated with sealant. Under the lower profile, a “tie” is wound up and fastened - a flat triangular sheet with a flanging - to ensure that the water that enters under the roof is drained from the pipe towards the eaves. After mounting the wall profile, the “tie” and the metal tile itself, the elements of the adjacent “apron” are installed at the joints with the pipe.

Accessories

The installation of the accessories provided for by the plan is carried out strictly according to the technology specified by the manufacturer in the attached instructions for a specific product. But all installed stairs, railings, ventilation outlets, walkways and other accessories are united by general rule fastenings - through sheets of roofing material directly to the crate using synthetic gaskets.

Metal tile is a measured material, the length of sheets of which reaches 7.5 m. For its temporary storage or long-term storage, a flat area is selected with installed through 0.5 m wooden beams. The same bars are used as spacers between sheets. A stack of folded sheets is covered and pressed down from above (in 2-3 places) with a load that can prevent unwanted movement of the material from gusts of wind.
The supply of roofing material to the roof is carried out along two boards, as if along guides.
The use of a "grinder" when working with a metal tile should be excluded, because when cutting, in addition to the edge in the cut area, the polymer coating is also broken (burned through) in places where hot metal filings hit it. The second important point is that the guarantee for sheets cut with this power tool is canceled by the manufacturer.
Seals are not used under the decorative overlay of the valley. When fixing the overlays, you need to make sure that the valley itself is not damaged by self-tapping screws.
The wall adjoining profile can be mounted immediately on the wall plane or in a prepared strobe with the obligatory sealing of the joint with a sealant.
A large overhang from the eaves can cause deformation of the edge of the metal tile. The optimal overhang is 40 mm.
Self-tapping screws are purchased at the rate of 7-10 pieces / m2. The length of the self-tapping screws for fastening the tiles to the crate is 25 mm, between each other - 19 mm.
Usually, a metal tile is attached to the crate in every third wave of the profile; near the gables, ridges and cornices - through the wave. The self-tapping screw is driven 1.5 cm below the stamping line.
Working with metal tiles requires maximum accuracy and delicacy to preserve the sprayed layer. Therefore, when working on the roof, shoes with soft soles are used.

The technology of mounting a roof from a metal tile profile is not complicated. Following her points and proper maintenance of the roof in the future can remove the issue of overlapping the building from the agenda for 50 years.

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Metal roofing is one of the most popular materials used for roofing. This material is good both for its performance characteristics and ease of installation, which contributed to its popularization among owners of private houses who decided to build a roof on their own. In this article, we will talk about how to install a metal tile with your own hands.

Selection and purchase of metal tiles

In order to purchase a sufficient amount of material for arranging the roof, it is necessary to draw up detailed plan future design- and for this it is required to measure the roof and display the data obtained on the sketch.

The parameters that determine the amount of metal tiles include the following:

Roof slope length. Measurements are taken from the ridge to the extreme part of the eaves, but for the utmost accuracy it is worth measuring three indicators - the distance between the overhangs and along the centerline of the ridge. The outer part of the windboard and the center line of the ridge are taken as reference points.
The length of the cornices and skates. These indicators must be measured along the entire perimeter of the building, taking into account the design of the future roof.
Length of inner corners (valleys) and outer corners (ridges).
Also, the diagram should show the dimensions of all ventilation shafts, dormer windows, chimneys and antennas present on the roof.

The calculation of the required amount of metal tiles is carried out by sellers on the basis of a previously drawn up roofing plan, so it must be painted in detail. In addition to the sheets of metal tiles themselves, the kit should include a complete set of fasteners and accessories.

Warehousing and storage of metal tiles

Standard metal tiles are produced in sheet form with measured lengths up to 7.5 meters. To store sheets, you need a flat surface, on top of which every 50 cm are laid out wooden blocks. The sheets are stacked, covered and loaded with a pair of bags filled with sand - in the event of a gusty wind, they will protect the sheets from scattering.

During installation, the metal tile is dragged onto the roof along two guide boards. You need to hold the sheets by the sides at those points where there are waves.

Preparation of roof structures - step by step instructions

Before installing the metal roofing on the roof, you need to make sure that the installation of the supporting structures of the roof is correct. In particular, all elements of the crate should already be in place, and the insulation should not have any defects such as gaps or gaps. The crate must be installed with such a step, which is indicated in the documents attached to the material.

The thickness of the crate is calculated depending on the pitch of the rafters and the level of precipitation in the region. The latter figure for different regions can vary significantly, so it is necessary to find suitable data. In the event that the rafters are located at a distance of more than 90 cm from each other, or if a serious snow load is expected on the roof, then additional elements of the crate or solid flooring should be installed near the cornices between the boards, which will allow further installation of snow retainers or fencing.

The first board of the crate, going immediately behind the cornice overhang, may have a section that differs from the rest of the boards. As a rule, the recommended cross-section of the crate is present in the design documentation - you can use this value. If there is no project, then there is always the opportunity to order it from metal tile suppliers - of course, this additional service, so the budget allocated for the roof will have to be increased.

At the point where the skate is installed, another board is needed to which the elements of the skate will be attached. In the valleys, if they are to be equipped, additional boards are also stuffed between the elements of the crate, which increase the strength of the structure and reduce the likelihood of damage to the sheets of metal.

Another point that cannot be ignored when equipping a roof from a metal tile with your own hands is the ventilation of the space under the roof. Air must be provided with unhindered passage into this space through the cornices and exit through the ridge part, so that it passes through all areas located under the roof and ventilates the inside of the metal tile. The roof must be designed in such a way that there are no areas on it where air will stagnate. The lack of good ventilation often leads to the destruction of the structure due to the effects of condensation and leaks.

Manufacturers of metal tiles are aware of the need for ventilation of the structure and try to take this aspect into account. The optimal solution that will provide high-quality ventilation, are the gaps located between the boards of the crate and in the space between the counter-crate - due to this, the metal tile and the waterproofing layer are blown through.

And the last thing worth paying attention to is that wooden structural elements must be treated with compounds that increase fire resistance and resistance to biological influences. The cheapest option protective composition is milk of lime, but the construction market offers a lot of other options - if you have a budget, you can purchase a coating with a variety of characteristics.

Required Tools

Before you perform a step-by-step installation of metal tiles, you need to stock up on the following set of tools:

Screwdriver;
A hammer;
rubber mallet;
Soft brush;
fabric tape measure;
Building level;
Marker.

Several tools are suitable for cutting sheets, but one of them will be enough for the job:

Manual Circular Saw(makes it easier to work with large quantity sheets);
Electric jigsaw and a set of files with small teeth;
Electric drill with a nozzle for cutting metal;
Metal scissors.

A standard construction tool - a grinder - cannot be used for cutting metal tiles. In the process of working with a grinder, deformation always occurs polymer coating at the site of the incision. In addition, heated sawdust causes the upper layer of the material to burn through, as a result of which it becomes unsuitable for further use.

Do-it-yourself metal tile installation algorithm

Do-it-yourself installation instructions for metal tiles come down to the following sequence of actions:

First you need to install supports for gutters, if they will be installed at all. The step between the supports should be 70 cm or less.
Further, with the help of galvanized nails, cornice strips are attached. The fastening step is about 30 cm. The planks should be installed with an overlap of about 10-15 cm. The waterproofing membrane is pressed onto the plank. Waterproofing must be hidden from direct sunlight.
Further step-by-step instruction installation of metal tiles provides for the installation of the sheets themselves. You can start laying sheets from any edge of the roof. When laying, it is necessary to take into account the location of the capillary groove: depending on it, the edge of the previously mounted sheet must either be raised or the sheets should be laid sequentially. The bottommost sheet is aligned with the slope and fixed in draft order. The overhang of sheets from the side of the eaves should be 40 mm - practice shows that this is the optimal value.
The following sheets are installed sequentially. They need to be aligned not only relative to the eaves, but also relative to each other. Three sheets are temporarily fixed and tightly fitted to each other, after which they can be fixed. After making sure that the sheets of metal tiles are correctly positioned and the overhang near the eaves is the proper size, you can proceed to the next steps. The temporary mount located near the ridge can already be removed.
Next, the sheets are attached to the crate using self-tapping screws with seals. The sheets are usually fixed to each other with self-tapping screws 4.8x19 mm, and the entire structure is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws 4.8x25 mm. When calculating the required number of self-tapping screws, it is worth proceeding from the calculation of about 7-10 pieces per one square meter roofs.
The sheets are attached to each other at a right angle, and the self-tapping screw must be directed to any place except the capillary groove. To fasten the crates to the boards, it is necessary to tighten the screws 15 mm below the wave, and the fastening step is two waves. Near the cornices, ridge and gables, the sheet fastening step is reduced to one wave. Before you tighten the self-tapping screw, you need to check whether it falls into the crate board.
These operations are repeated according to the same algorithm on the entire surface of the roof slope. In the event that metal tiles of non-standard sizes are used, they will have to be joined vertically. To do this, it is necessary to vertically compose a solid row of two elements, and lay the next row on top of it. overlap individual sheets vertical row should be about 10 cm.
An additional board with a thickness of 10 mm more than the rest of the elements is nailed near the ridge. In order for the ventilation of the roof to be complete, there must be a gap of at least 8 cm between the central line of the ridge and the edge of the roof profile. The ridge itself is attached over the metal tile, and its strips are fixed with self-tapping screws at the upper points of the profile. The overlap of the ridge strips should be more than 100 mm, and the distance between the screws can be from 30 to 80 cm.
The gable bar is attached with the expectation that it should cover upper part waves. The fastening of this plank is carried out in increments of 30-60 cm. The installation of the pediment strips is carried out from the cornice part towards the ridge with an overlap of about 5-10 cm.

Installation of valleys and pipes on the roof

After the installation of the metal tile with your own hands is completed, it remains to equip the internal corners of the roof:

In the valleys, the required number of crate boards is installed (in the case of large volumes of precipitation, it is worth installing a solid crate of boards). The distance between the boards should be 20 mm.
In the direction from the eaves towards the ridge, a valley gutter is laid. The width of the gutter should be about 50 cm from the center line of the valley, and the overlap of the sheets should be 20 cm.
At 10 cm from the center of the valley, it is necessary to mark the lines with a marker, along which adjacent sheets are subsequently cut. A special seal is attached to the gutter.
Sheets of metal tiles are cut in accordance with measurements. The trimmed metal tile is attached to the crate 25 cm from the center line of the valley. If during the cutting process uneven edges of the sheets are obtained, they should be covered with decorative elements.

To ensure passage through the roof of ventilation shafts and chimneys, it is necessary to use special aprons made of galvanized steel and having a polymer coating. These aprons are installed on the outside with a 15 cm overlap on the pipes. Sealants are used to adjoin aprons.

If it is necessary to install additional accessories, they are fastened directly to the crate, with a passage through the metal tile. All details related to the installation of accessories are usually indicated in the documentation attached to them.

Conclusion

A do-it-yourself roof is assembled from a metal tile step by step without any problems - you just need to study in detail the technology of mounting sheets and additional elements roofs, as well as qualitatively and competently perform all the necessary operations.

The question of how to properly lay a metal tile is asked by most developers who decide to choose this practical, modern and durable material. This article will talk about how the installation of metal tiles is carried out - the instruction will tell you about all the subtleties and nuances of this work.

The article also talks about the device roofing cake necessary for the construction of the roof materials, tools and much more.

The “metal tile - installation - instruction” scheme used in the article can be useful both for developers and for the builders themselves, both when building a house and when performing such work as erecting a canopy from metal tiles.

Mounting technology

Before proceeding with the installation of metal tiles, you can watch or download a video on the Internet - installation of metal tiles, but first of all, consider the scheme and basic principles of the so-called roofing pie for metal tiles.

This name is associated with a large number of layers, each of which performs a specific function.

On condition correct selection materials, as well as the calculation and installation, it is this design that makes it possible to make the roof of metal tiles the most reliable and durable.

Regardless of how the instruction will be applied - the installation of metal tiles is planned to be carried out with one's own hands or with the invitation of hired workers, one should be aware that the roof is a rather complex structure, during the construction of which it is important to strictly follow the recommendations of manufacturers for the installation of metal roofing, as well as all building rules and regulations.

Let us remind you once again that it is recommended to watch the video - the installation of metal tiles, and the entire process of installation itself should be constantly monitored, since poor-quality work may not be detected immediately, but during operation.

For example, poor-quality installation of hydro- and vapor barriers can lead to the accumulation of condensate, a decrease in the quality of thermal insulation and rotting of wooden structural elements.

Important: a reliable and durable roof can only be built in full compliance with all the rules that the instruction includes: installation of metal tiles.

rafter system;
counter rails;
Waterproofing film;
Bars of vertical lathing;
Starting beam of a horizontal crate;
Bars of horizontal lathing;
The crate is additional;
wind board;
Gutter bracket;
Cornice plank;
metal tile;
Roofing ridge;
Ridge seal;
Dormer window;
thermal insulation material;
vapor barrier material;
Attic lining.

The figure shows the installation scheme of the metal tile, in accordance with which the work described below is carried out.

But first you need to figure out what tools will be used to install the coating.

Tools and equipment

This instruction: metal tiles - installation describes the process of installing metal tiles using the example of the Monterrey brand and similar ones, installation of other brands is generally carried out according to the same principle, distinctive features will be discussed at the end of the article.

To perform the work, you will need the following tools and materials:

Tool for cutting sheets of metal;
Screwdriver, preferably on batteries;
Medium-sized hammer;
Rule or even long rail;
Marker.

In order to cut sheets, manufacturers advise using the following tools:

Scissors manual or electric for metal;
Hacksaw or reciprocating electric saw with the necessary blades;
Perforated electric scissors;
Electric jigsaw;
Circular saw with teeth from Pobeda.

After the cutting of the sheets is completed, various sawdust should be removed, which, when rusting, can damage the polymer coating of the metal tile.

Important: when cutting sheets of metal, do not use a tool with abrasive cutting wheels, such as a grinder.

In this case, exposure to high temperatures will lead to the destruction of the zinc and polymer coating of the material, which will subsequently cause a corrosion process, as a result of which rusty smudges will appear on the roof.

Installation instructions

Useful: Although laying long sheets reduces the number of joints, the installation process itself is much more difficult than laying shorter overlapping sheets.

Roof freezing;
Formation of ice on the metal tile;
Rotting of the crate and rafters;
Destruction of interior decoration.

In order to avoid these unpleasant consequences, the rules for installing metal tiles recommend using heat-insulating material of the required thickness.

In addition, when installing a metal tile, it is imperative to protect the insulation material from the side of the metal tile - using a waterproofing film, from the side of the interior - with a vapor barrier film.

The removal of wet vapors from the space under the roof is ensured by the creation natural ventilation, which is the free movement of air masses from the eaves to the ridge of the roof.

For this, between waterproofing film and a metal tile with the help of a crate, a gap of approximately 40 mm should be left. When hemming the overhangs of the cornices, gaps should be left on them, as well as special holes should be freed in rubber seal on a skate.

Useful: in the case of Yutavek and Tyvek films, thermal insulation can be laid without a gap.

The crate is made of beams or edged boards, treated with antiseptic preparations. The recommended cross-section of the bars is 50x50 mm, the boards - 100x32 mm.
The installation of the crate is carried out in several stages:

On the rafters, bars are nailed over the waterproofing film, falling from the ridge to the eaves. Lathing boards are attached to these beams;
The first board of the crate from the eaves should be approximately 10-15 mm thicker than the others. Next, you need to observe the correct distance between the boards;
In the case of the Monterrey metal tile, the installation instructions: the metal tile prescribes to install the second board with an indent from the bottom edge of the first 300 mm (measured from the middle of the second nailed board), for the Maxi metal tile this distance is 350 mm;
The distances between the axes of the boards of the lathing, nailed in the future, are for different brands of metal tiles: for "Monterrey" and "Supermonterrey" - 350 mm, for "Maxi" - 400 mm.

Important: if the pitch of the rafters exceeds 1000 mm, boards of greater thickness should be used for the crate.

Solid lathing is carried out in places such as valleys, chimneys, the perimeter of auditory and skylights. On both sides of the ridge, two additional edged boards are nailed, while the end strips rise to the height of the metal tile profile above the ordinary crate.

Installation of metal tiles. endova

Before the metal tile is laid, the instruction provides for fastening the bottom plank of the valley with self-tapping screws to a continuous crate along the inner junction of the slopes.
If it is necessary to join the planks, an overlap of 100-150 mm is made. Next, markup and, if necessary, cut sheets of metal tiles.
Installation of metal tiles is made from the bottom up (see. Fig.). The upper joint of the sheets rarely has an attractive appearance, so a decorative element is installed on top of it, for example, the top bar of the valley.

Important: most weak point roofs are junction nodes. In order to avoid subsequently repairing the roof, their device is an instruction: metal tiles must be performed with special care.

The hermetic adjunction of a metal-tiled roof to the walls on the slopes and chimneys is carried out using an internal apron, manufactured using the lower adjoining strips:
- The bar is applied to the pipe wall, after which its upper edge is marked on the brick;
- With the help of a grinder, a strobe is punched along the drawn line, after which dust should be removed and the area should be washed with water;
- The installation of the inner apron begins on the wall of the pipe, which is located in the lower part of the slope, that is, from the side of the eaves. The bar is cut in place, installed and fastened with self-tapping screws;
- Similarly, the installation of the apron is carried out on all remaining sides of the pipe;
- If it is necessary to join the planks, an overlap of approximately 150 mm is performed. The edge of the apron, wound into a strobe, should be processed silicone sealant, preferably colorless;
- Further, a tie is inserted into the space under the lower edge of the inner apron - a flat sheet that provides water flow. The tie can be directed either into the valley or down to the very eaves. Along the edges of the tie with a hammer and pliers, a side is made;
- Sheets of metal tiles are mounted over a tie and apron;
- After laying the roofing around the chimney pipe, the manufacture and installation of the outer apron, made using the upper abutment strips, begins;
- The upper strips are installed similarly to the lower ones, but the upper edge does not go into the strobe, but is attached directly to the wall.
Important: when moving on a metal roof, all necessary measures security.

Metal tile: installation instructions prescribes to wear comfortable and soft non-slip shoes and step only into the wave deflections. In addition, the installer's belt and safety tether should be used.
- The first sheet is aligned along the end of the roof and fastened at the top with a single self-tapping screw.
  At the same time, an extension (metal-tiled visor) of about 40 mm should be made near the eaves. The second sheet is laid with an overlap of the first when mounted from right to left, or its edge is brought under the first sheet in case of mounting from left to right.
- The sheets are fastened together using self-tapping screws at the upper point of the overlap, while they should not be screwed to the crate under the metal tile - it should be possible to freely move the sheets relative to the self-tapping screw holding the first sheet in the ridge part.
- The laying of the third sheet is carried out similarly to the second, after which the sheets fastened together are aligned parallel to the eaves.
  If it is necessary to join the sheets along the length, you should follow the order of their laying, shown in Figure B.
Important: if there is a protective film on the metal tile, it must be removed before installation.

Important: when purchasing a metal tile, you need to find out the terms of the guarantee for the material.

Many manufacturers provide a guarantee for metal tiles only with the condition of using a certain brand of self-tapping screws, so it is recommended to purchase self-tapping screws from the supplier along with the material itself.
1. When installing ventilation elements, the first thing to do in a metal tile is to draw and cut a hole according to the template.
  Next, silicone is applied to the passage element, after which the structure is attached to the metal tile using self-tapping screws.
  The ventilation outlet is inserted into the passage element, aligned vertically with a level and also fastened with self-tapping screws.
  To connect the hood and the house air duct, a corrugated pipe is used, which is passed through the roof pie, after which the passage is sealed with adhesive tape.
2. For the installation of stairs, brackets are used in the amount of 4 pieces per 1 section.
  They are put on the ladder racks and fixed with M8x40 bolts.
  The brackets are fastened to the roof surface in wave deflections using Sh8x60 bolts, and their junctions are sealed.
  Along the length of the roof slope, the ladder is assembled in sections, the uppermost of which is attached to the ridge beam with special brackets.
Important: if there are skylights, snow guards must also be installed above them.

Installation of other types of metal tiles

Above, the general procedure for the construction of a metal-tiled roof was considered, we will consider the main nuances when installing certain types of material.

The figure shows that the step of the crate during the installation of the metal tile of the Cascade brand differs from the step for the Elite and Monterrey brands. These differences are due to differences in the dimensions of the material profile.

When installing metal tiles of the Andalusia brand, which has a Z-shaped lock, you should also take into account your own nuances. In the lock part of this brand there is a perforation that simplifies the positioning of the sheet on the roof and its fastening.

At the same time, the fasteners are hidden, which makes it possible to make the joints of the sheets almost invisible.

When purchasing a metal tile, you should find out various subtleties about a particular type of material, and when performing installation, it is important to follow the rules and requirements described in this manual. This will allow you to build a reliable and durable metal tiled roof.

Metal roofing stands out from other roofing options. Still: roofing with a metal tile is easy, beautiful and inexpensive. Thanks to current technology, there are many varieties of this material, which are ranked by base material, coverage, insole depth and geometry.

Making such a roof yourself is not the most difficult thing, especially if you arm yourself with knowledge and tools.

Types of metal tiles
To choose the right metal tile for a roof, you need to keep in mind the pros and cons of each of its varieties.

Based on:

steel - the most popular view, extremely resistant to external influences;
aluminum - the lightest tile, durable, does not suffer from corrosion. However, it is more expensive than steel, and the range of its colors is limited;
copper - great option for roofing, does not need a protective coating, looks noble.

In the photo - one of the varieties of metal tiles, aluminum cascade

By coverage:

polyester is the cheapest option. Such a metal tile can be matte or glossy;
plastisol is also not the most expensive type of coating. It is a plastic film;
pural - metal tile-gloss. This coating is resistant to corrosion and is based on polyurethane;
PVF2 is an elastic coating that is resistant to temperatures and has many shades.

Insole depth and geometry:

andalusia - covered with concealed fastening. Minus - the need for accurate and frequent crates;
bang - a tile with an impressive wave height, but a smaller installation width. Allows you to get the effect of "3D";
country - this view is similar to natural tiles, has a sophisticated look (soft and even waves), easy to install and durable;
cascade - the most economical option metal tiles. The installation width is sufficient, the shapes are straight, which allows you to emphasize classic style building and its sophistication;
Monterrey is the most common type. Very similar to a real tile, it can have symmetrical or asymmetrical steps, the profile is rounded.

Self-assembly of a roof with a metal tile involves 3 stages: preparation of the structure, installation of a metal tile, installation of additional elements.

Installation instructions

For work you need:

screwdriver or screwdriver;
a hammer;
cutting and metal scissors;
hacksaw for metal;
rail and markers for marking;
jigsaw.

Preparing the truss system

We manage with the crate. The flatter the slope of the roof, the smaller the step of the crate. Correct Distance necessary for accurate installation of sheets of metal. Saturate the crate with fire and rotting agents.
If you intend to use the room under a roof, install thermal insulation.
Mount the vapor barrier from the special film, observing 3 rules:
1. from 150 mm between sheets of vapor barrier;
2. from 200 mm of material overlap on the walls;
3. fastening with slight sag.

We lay metal tiles

Important! For cutting sheets of metal tiles, you can not use the "grinder". The area near the cut is very hot, the decorative, protective layers and zinc plating simply burn out. The sheets are corroded.

Installation of other elements

We mount the parts of the ridge with an overlap, the value of which is indicated in the passport. Through every wave bottom sheets skates are fastened with self-tapping screws.
To equip the gutters, use the elements from the kit with metal tiles. Under them, special constructions of the crate are needed.
Cornices, gable boards and chimneys, ventilation ducts, dormer windows, cables, snow guards, fences, stairs and walkways are also installed with the help of complete materials and the attached instructions.

Roofing mansard roof with metal tiles

Metal tile, gaining popularity, has not bypassed mansard roofs. The reasons are the same: simple installation, aesthetic appearance and durability.

In the photo - a country house attic floor roofed with metal tiles

Peculiarities

There are 5 features on which the installation of a mansard roof with a metal tile is based:

docking of sheets should take place along the wave;
sheets are also joined along the rows of the crate board, self-tapping screws at the joints are installed in each wave;
when mounted on a cornice, the roofing sheet protrudes 5 cm beyond the edge of the cornice, between the first board of the crate and the edge of the cornice - no more than 25 cm;
the ridge board of the crate is 1 cm thicker than the others for good ventilation, fastening takes place in increments of 0.8 m into the crest of the wave;
installation of the roof at the ends implies end strips on self-tapping screws with a step of 0.8 m. The same applies to gutters.

Installation instructions
The set of rules for installing a mansard roof with a metal tile will depend on its type. Consider a rectangular option:

We mount the rafter system and the crate. The pitch for the rafters is 60-90 cm, the lathing board is 10 mm wide, 25 mm thick. We level the cornice board and hammer it.
Then we install the hooks for the drain on the eaves bar. For better joining of all sheets, first they are fixed with screws through two rows, after that - completely.
For normal fastening of 4 sheets in one row, 2 sheets are mounted, to them - a pair of another row. Seal at the joint is eliminated by leveling the capillary groove and cutting off part of the corner.
In the presence of roof windows, it is better to use single-module sheets - 2 for each window.
The metal tile is laid from the end - the ridge is mounted on the end strips with a ledge of 2-3 cm. We overlap the elements of the flat ridge, semicircular - along the profile line.

Important! Roof ventilation plays an important role. If a mansard roof from a metal tile - gently sloping, it is recommended to install an aero roller that blocks the flow of snow under the ridge. If the ridge is equipped with pinhole ventilation, sealing is required.

Do-it-yourself roofing with corrugated board

Decking has high rates qualities, including its versatility as a working material, ease of installation and reconstruction, minimal waste after work and the ability to install sheets without special training.

Types of corrugated board

When choosing a corrugated board, be guided by the marking letter:

H ("bearing") - the most durable sheet, gives the structure amazing durability and durability;
NS ("bearing-wall") - universal view, has average sizes of sheets and corrugations;
C ("wall") - an elegant option used in the decoration of walls, roofs, the manufacture of fences and other things.

Installation instructions

Installation of the roof with corrugated board takes place in 3 stages.

metal roofing cost

The price of a metal roof varies depending on the cost of the material, roofing and additional work.

A good metal tile costs around 160-700 rubles. per square.

Work without materials will cost per square:

500-600 rub. - roof only
770-820 rub. - roofing and sheathing;
1000-1200 rubles - installation of the truss system, lathing, roofing;
1500-1650 rub. – a new mansard-type pitched roof with an attic, truss system, insulators, lathing, roofing.

Additional services can "fly a pretty penny":

250-280 rub. per m. – snow guards and drainage system;
about 150 rubles. per m. - installation of cornice and end strips;
about 450 rubles. per sq. m. – truss system from scratch;
over 7500 rubles. – installation of a dormer-window in a ready roof.

Video

From the video you will learn how to professionally cover the roof with metal, avoiding common mistakes. Options for mounting additional accessories for of this type roofs.

When purchasing one of the best roofing materials - metal tiles - do not save on components. It is better to purchase a complete set from one company: some companies do not guarantee their products. Construction Materials if they are mounted by "foreign" components. If necessary, it is better to save on labor force and install a high-quality and beautiful metal tile with your own hands.

A metal tile is one of the types of roofing material that has proven itself only on the positive side over the years of use. It is versatile, reliable and quite accessible to any category of developers due to its affordable cost. Do-it-yourself metal tile roofing implies excellent knowledge of the subject. But even if all the work is entrusted to professional builders, it does not hurt to have an idea about general principles installation to expertly control the process.
From proper styling coverage will depend on the duration of its trouble-free operation in the future.

The sequence of steps for installing a metal roof

roof measurement for accurate calculation quantities of all materials, including insulation, steam and water insulators, as well as fasteners
Mounting the truss system
Installing the eaves board to attach the gutter hook
Roof overhang filing and windshield installation
Installation of gutter hooks
Fastening the counter-lattice along the rafters, the installation of a waterproofing coating
Installation of battens and reinforcing strips where necessary (that is, around additional roof elements - skylights, hoods, chimneys, along the ridge)
Installing the cornice strip
The device of the bottom carpet of the valley
Installation of an "apron" around the chimney
Direct installation of metal roofing, installation of dormer and / or roof windows
End plate installation
The device of the upper carpet of the valley
Adjacency strips: installation
Installation of external corners and ridge battens
Installation of fences and bridges
Installation of a drainage system
Works on grounding the roof with a bus, separately from the lightning rod bus
The pre-final stage of installation - surface cleaning, paint treatment of problem areas
Working with truss system: installation of thermal insulation and installation of counter rails
Installation of vapor barrier, its fixing

Instructions for calculating metal roof tiles

The metal tile is galvanized steel sheets with a decorative protective coating. The full width of the sheet is always 80-120 mm larger than the working one, therefore, when choosing a coating, you need to know exactly the size of the working area.

In order for the calculation of the number of sheets of roofing material to be accurate, it is necessary to divide the maximum length of the metal tile sheet by its working width. The result obtained is rounded to the maximum figure (the calculation is carried out along the horizontal slope).

The number of sheets in one row and their total length are calculated according to the following parameters:

The length of the slope is measured from the top of the roof to the bottom
Eaves overhang is taken into account - 0.05 m
Overlap of sheets vertically - 0.15 m per row. If the length of the sheets of metal tiles allows laying the coating in one row, the overlap is not taken into account.

After measurements, all indicators are added up - this will be the required length.
If the manufacturer cuts the sheets according to individual measurements, then the calculation of the metal tile for the roof is made by its representatives. In the case of a personal approach, the amount of waste is reduced. Metal roofing can be different sizes: from 70cm to 12m. The best option is from 4 to 4.5 m.
At the point of contact with another slope, the tile sheet must be of such length that the bevels are completely closed.

Installing the rafter system

It is better not to do the calculation of the pitch and section of the rafters on your own, but to invite specialists for this purpose. The fact is that if the measurements are taken incorrectly, then the heavy metal roof will definitely sag - and very quickly.

Roof beams with a section of 150x50mm and 100x50mm are usually used. The optimal distance between them is considered to be a gap of 60-90cm. If for some reason it needs to be increased, a crate should be laid across.

The maximum moisture content of wood should be within 22%. Before starting installation, it is necessary to carry out fire and antiseptic treatment.

Roof slopes must be checked diagonally before starting work. The perimeter of the roof must be rectangular. In addition, you need to make sure that the slope fractures and the eaves ridge are horizontal.

When choosing a metal tile as a coating, one should take into account the slope of the roof - at least 14 degrees.

Cornice board: installation

In order to mount the eaves board in the rafters, grooves are cut out. Designed for the gutter hook, this board provides additional rigidity to the entire system.

Roof overhang filing and windshield installation

The frontal board is attached to the ends of the rafters with galvanized nails. It is needed to ensure greater reliability of the entire structure.
The under-roof space must be ventilated, therefore, in the process of filing the roof overhang, it is necessary to provide ventilation slots. As a material for filing, corrugated board, siding, lining, etc. are used. When arranging the filing, you need to fill the bar on the wall. It should be located at the same level as the bottom of the frontal board.
The next stage: cross bars are nailed between the horizontal beam and the frontal board. The result is a crate, on which you need to attach the filing in such a way that there are ventilation gaps. It is desirable to isolate them from birds and insects with a mesh with a small cell.

Installation of gutter hooks

Gutters are installed even before the installation of a metal roof. The hooks on which they are laid are attached either to the cornice board or to the rafters. The distance between the hooks must match the distance between the rafters. First, grooves are cut, then hooks are inserted into them with the base, bent and fixed with self-tapping screws.

Installation of waterproofing coating and ventilation system

In order to prevent corrosion of the metal and rotting of the wooden component roof structure it is necessary to have insulating coatings and ventilation.

The ratio of the area of ventilation gaps to total area roofs should be in proportions of one to a hundred. Ventilation gaps are arranged according to the area of each slope. For example, the area of the slope is 100 m2, therefore, the area of \u200b\u200bthe gaps will be 1 m2.

At the eaves there is an inflow of air, at the ridge - its outflow. Both indicators of the cornice and ridge ventilation area should be equal, so the total indicator for a particular slope is divided in half. This will ensure uniformity in the inlet and outlet of air.

The air flow in the entire under-roof space should be uniform, nothing should interfere with it. This is provided:

Ventilation gap at the roof ridge, as well as dormer windows
Through air flow between the roof and waterproofing coating, as well as between thermal and waterproofing
Ventilation gaps in the cornice filing

Waterproofing device

With the help of a waterproofing layer, pollution and water ingress under the roof are prevented. In addition, thanks to him, water vapor freely escapes into the ridge ventilation gap.

Films for waterproofing of one of three types are used.

superdiffusion membranes.
anti-condensation materials.
Classic waterproofing.

If applicable classic version, then the ventilation should be two-circuit: between the roofing material and waterproofing, as well as between the insulation and waterproofing.

The superdiffusion membrane is placed directly on the insulation, a single-circuit ventilation is sufficient - between the roofing material and the membrane itself.

When laying anti-condensation materials, two-circuit ventilation must be provided. The peculiarity of this material is that it has a fleecy structure, water is absorbed into the pile, after which it dries quickly in warm and sunny weather.

Regardless of the type of waterproofing film, the gap should be 3-5cm.

One of the answers to the question "how to properly cover the roof with metal tiles" will be compliance immutable rule: bitumen-based waterproofing is not used under tiled roofs under any circumstances.

The nuances of proper installation

The first row of waterproofing film must be rolled out from the eaves in a horizontal direction. The overlap of one strip on another must be at least 15 cm, this border is indicated by the manufacturers and runs along the entire roll in the form of a strip. Used to isolate overlaps adhesive tape, and the strips are fastened together with a construction stapler.

The places of overlap should not be in the gaps, but directly on wooden elements structures - that is, on remote bars, counter rails, rafters, crates. When laying waterproofing, it should be borne in mind that it is impossible to turn the material upside down, such an arrangement of the film will not provide moisture protection.

The film should be laid with a margin - that is, sag between the rafters by about 20mm. This is necessary in order to exclude its breakage or tension under the influence of weather conditions (cold) or due to possible shifts in the truss structure.

Since the anti-condensation and classic film requires double-circuit ventilation, the rafter should protrude 3-5 cm beyond the level of thermal insulation. If the heat-insulating layer is equipped in such a way that it is flush with the rafters, a distance bar with a section of 30x50mm must be filled along the beam. This will ensure the creation of a ventilation channel in the gap between the waterproofing and the insulation.

The superdiffusion membrane is rolled out directly on the rafters. If the rafter protrudes above the thermal insulation, then the membrane must be rolled out so that it wraps around it.

The waterproofing layer must be arranged so that it protrudes at least 20 cm beyond the wall line - both at the roof overhang and at the eaves. In the area of \u200b\u200bthe eaves, the waterproofing agent must be brought out along the rafters and attached with special tape. If in the role waterproofing material the membrane protrudes, it will be easier to recognize damage to the roof - by the volume of incoming water.

At the joints of the slopes, the overlap of the film panels on each other should be from 15 to 20 cm.

Ventilation and chimneys it is desirable to waterproof with a double layer. The first layer is made with an overlap to a height of about 5 cm, the second is laid on top of the first.

If the attic is planned to be made cold, that is, without insulation, waterproofing films should be used anyway. Due to the difference in external and internal temperatures, the metal tile will “sweat”, the film must be laid under the sheets of tiles with an interval of at least 5 cm. Thanks to this laying, the temperature inside and outside the profile will be the same. With this version of the attic, anti-condensation materials are best suited.

Installation of the crate and reinforcement bars

Before you cover the roof with metal tiles, you need to properly mount the crate.

The cross section of the initial purlin must necessarily be larger than the others by the size of the wave height, because it is mounted under the upper edge of the sheet step. It must be laid strictly parallel to the eaves, the distance between the first two purlins should be 28 cm, between all the others - 35 cm.

When mounting the crate, you should prepare in advance the attachment points for all additional elements that will be located on the roof.

Should be especially well fixed ridge bar, therefore, under the place where it will be located, you need to nail two additional boards on both sides 50mm apart on top of the rafters.

Where the slopes are joined together (in the valleys), around the windows of the attic, chimneys, the crate is made continuous.

When arranging a roof from a metal tile with your own hands or with the participation of specialists, gable overhangs are sometimes made. In this case, the boards of the lathing of the horizontal direction must be extended by the length of the overhangs, and a reinforcing bar is installed from the eaves to the ridge, to which an end board pre-coated with waterproofing is attached. The overhang is sheathed along the connecting bars, which, in turn, are nailed between the end board and the rafters. The end board is taken out from the wall and strengthened so that it completely covers the sides of the metal tile waves, as well as the counter-lattice and the crate.

Installing the cornice strip

Before laying the metal tile, the eaves plank is strengthened over the gutter hooks. Its tension should be maximum so that it is resistant to wind. The bar is mounted to the cornice and frontal boards with self-tapping screws at a distance of 30 cm from each other. The overlap along the length is from 5 to 10 cm.

Valley installation

Where the joints of the slopes form negative angles, the installation of valleys is provided. Before mounting the lower valleys, a continuous crate is made of boards, the cross section of which should be 150x25mm. They are laid on both sides of the joint along the length of 30 cm. The result is a wooden gutter, which is protected by a waterproofing coating from the inside. The valley is fastened with self-tapping screws, a distance of 300 mm is observed between them. At the same time, the cornice board is located under the lower edge of the valley.

The horizontal joint of the valleys implies an overlap of at least 100mm. In the case of a very obtuse angle, the valley should be protected with an additional waterproofing layer, which is laid along. It is desirable to seal the metal tile and the lower valley by laying a porous self-expanding material between them.

Installation of an "apron" around the chimney

In those places where the chimney goes to the roof surface, it is necessary to equip the internal parts of the junction.

Adjoining strips are usually selected in the same color as the roofing material, their size must be appropriate
It is necessary to make a strobe in the pipe with a not very large upper slope, its depth should be at least 15mm
Using heat-resistant waterproofing, it is necessary to bring it to the pipe. The output must be at least 50mm. The cut is glued to the pipe with special construction tape

Where the pipe comes out of the roof, wrap it with foil - it could be Ecobit.

After the roof is covered with metal tiles, the time comes for the final stage - the decorative outer "apron" is mounted. External junction strips must be applied to the pipe, outer part which are placed in a shtrob. Then it is insulated with a heat-resistant sealant. The lower part of the plank is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws.

Ventilation between the pipe and the rafters must be provided optimal distance between them.

To protect brick pipe from cracking in case of strong heating (and this happens if the brick is wet), you need to wrap it steel sheet coated with polymer. For ventilation, be sure to leave a gap of 20mm.

The round chimney is insulated in the place where it goes to the roof with a special tape - Ecobit or similar. It has a self-expanding base, which allows you to perfectly seal the through hole along its diameter.

How to cover a roof with a metal tile

For the convenience of lifting sheets of metal on the roof, you need to arrange special logs. If the roof surface is different large sizes, or there is nowhere to store metal tiles on the ground, or there is some other reason why it is not very convenient to constantly feed sheets from the ground, you can equip racks on the roof. They will serve for temporary storage of building materials. In order not to damage the coating of the sheets, they should be laid on rails, separating one from the other. The protective film from the tiles is removed immediately after laying.

In order not to damage the metal tile, you need to walk on it very carefully. If you have to move along the cover, you need to step into the gap between the waves. If you need to go across, you need to walk along the crease. In any case, installation should be carried out only in soft shoes in order to completely exclude damage to the sheets.

During rainy weather, there is a concern that in places where one sheet overlaps another, water may seep, rising above the runoff level. This is the so-called capillary effect, in which moisture is squeezed out between the sheets pressed against each other.

To prevent this from happening, each metal tile sheet has a special groove, thanks to which the water that has seeped under the sheet has the opportunity to drain calmly. If a variety of metal tiles, where the groove is provided on both sides of the sheet, but usually it is on the right. During the laying of the coating, it is necessary to ensure that the capillary groove of the previous sheet is blocked by the next one.

The installation of the coating begins with the laying of the first sheet, the subsequent ones can be mounted both on the right side and on the left. The direction is chosen according to the principle "as convenient". But, in any case, you need to start from the side where there are no cuts and bevels, and you do not need to cut the sheet. Laying continues towards another slope - either to the inter-gap valley, or to the oblique ridge.

If the installation is done from right to left, then all subsequent sheets fall on the extreme wave of the previous ones. The capillary groove then closes on the left.

If a roofing material mounted from left to right, to cover the capillary groove, the edge of the next sheet is placed under the wave of the previously laid one. Mounting a metal tile in this way is easier than in the previous way, because one sheet is fixed to another, which eliminates its unforeseen shift. But at the same time there is a risk of inadvertently scratching the polymer coating.

It doesn't matter how much complex design will be the roof, all sheets must be aligned parallel to the eaves line in the horizontal direction. The overhang for the eaves should be 50mm.

When calculating how to properly cover the roof with metal tiles, you should know that this can be done in several ways.

With this method of laying from right to left, the first sheet must be aligned, respectively, to the end and cornice, after which it is fixed for a while with a self-tapping screw in the center next to the ridge. The next sheet is superimposed with the capture of one wave from above and aligned in accordance with the position of the first sheet, after which they are fastened together. In this way, you need to lay out no more than four sheets, connecting them all together in turn. It turns out a block that needs to be aligned along the eaves, leaving an allowance for the overhang. Then the whole structure is attached to the crate. The very last sheet does not need to be screwed until the subsequent block is aligned.

This method of installation involves laying sheets in this way: the alignment of the first sheet, laid in the direction from right to left, is done along the end and cornice. The second sheet is fixed above the first with an overlay - with a self-tapping screw in the center at the ridge (temporarily). Then they are aligned and fastened together with self-tapping screws. The third sheet is placed on the left side of the first, they are also fastened to each other. Above the third sheet (similarly to the first and second), a third sheet is mounted. The finished block is equal to the end and cornice, respectively, then the final fixing on the crate takes place.

Laying metal tiles on slopes of a triangular shape

Before you begin to mount the metal tile on a triangular slope, you need to make markings in its center and draw an center line through it. The same line is drawn along the metal tile sheet, after they are combined, the sheet is attached to the ridge with a self-tapping screw. The rest of the sheets are mounted on both sides of the first - in the same way as in the first two cases.

When the tiles are mounted on slanting ridges, in valleys and on triangular slopes, the sheets must be trimmed. You can do it right on the roof. The tile is marked on a special device - the "devil". It is arranged like this: two boards are parallel to one another, the other two are superimposed on them perpendicularly and loosely fastened. The width of each should be 100mm. The distance from the left board (its inner edge) to the right (outer edge) is 1100mm.

Oblique ridges and valleys: marking

Another sheet is superimposed on the whole sheet, to be trimmed. After installing the "devil", its loosely fixed boards turn. The cross boards are installed horizontally, and the vertical board with its inside lies on the valley (oblique ridge). After correct installation loose sheet is marked. The line must be drawn next to (parallel to) the outer side of the second vertical board, which does not lie on the ridge (valley). After this procedure, the sheet is removed. It must be cut strictly according to the markup and connected to a fixed sheet. Other sheets are mounted in a similar way.

Laying metal tiles: highlights

The sheet is fixed at the point of contact with the crate, between the waves
The lower sheets are mounted to the initial purlin through the wave above the step
Sheets of subsequent rows are attached at a minimum distance to the step
From the end board, the metal tile is fixed in each wave
Sheets must be drawn to the purlins
In places of vertical overlap, the sheets are screwed with self-tapping screws 5.5x19 into the recession of the wave

Having figured out how to properly cover the roof with metal tiles, you need to pay attention to some of the nuances of sheet processing. Namely:

When cutting sheets, it is forbidden to use grinders - you can burn through the coating, which will lead to corrosion
The metal tile should be cut with electric cutters, a hacksaw for metal or an electric jigsaw with a metal blade. Also applicable are hand-held scissors for metal

Damage to the polymer coating must be treated with paint.

End plate installation

At end plate not only decorative, but also protective function. This additional element prevents weakening of sheet fastenings from wind influences, in addition, it protects the wooden parts of the structure from moisture.

To prevent moisture from getting under the coating, the upper ridge must be covered with an end plate.

Upper valley: installation

The functional purpose of this element is to improve the appearance of the joints, as well as to remove moisture from inner corner. When reinforcing the upper valley with self-tapping screws, you need to make sure that they do not break through middle part lower valley - this threatens to damage the waterproofing layer.

Adjacency strips: installation

On roof breaks

Roof fractures are divided into two types: reverse and direct. When installing waterproofing on such a roof, you need to make sure that the coating is completely sealed.

If the slope has a straight kink, the boards of the battens are placed at the maximum close range one from the other. The metal tile sheet should cover the fracture site, protruding somewhat above it. The cornice strip can be used as a mating element. A sealant should be laid between the plank and the tiles.

If the roof has a reverse fracture, in this case a wall connection is used, which plays the role of a mating element. It is laid on the lower slope with a rolling side. At the fracture site, the crate boards should be as close to each other as possible. A sealant must be laid between the junction and the tile sheet.

Installation of adjoining to the wall is no different from a similar device adjoining to chimneys.

Installation of external corners and ridge strips

The waterproofing film under the ridge is torn along its entire length by at least 20 cm wide. To eliminate this drawback, care should be taken to lay additional waterproofing on additional boards (solid crate). At the same time, it should be wider than the gap in the lower layer by at least 15 cm.

The ridge is fastened to the crate of the upper ridge on both sides with special ridge screws. You need to screw it through the wave, the ends are insulated with plugs. In order for the skate to be semicircular in shape, it must be increased by overlapping stiffeners.

How to cover a roof with a metal tile: additional elements

Roof railing, walkway and stairs to the attic

These are the necessary details that complete the main part of the installation of the roof. Mount them according to the instructions that come with them. Where all these elements will be attached to the roof, a continuous crate is necessarily arranged. The bridge, railing and ladder are screwed with self-tapping screws through rubber gasket into the bend of the wave.

snow plow

This element is necessary so that ice and snow accumulating on the roof do not fall down in large blocks. In the process of mounting the crate in those places where the snow catcher will be located, bars are placed under the crest of the wave. A snow catcher is installed under the second transverse step of the sheet strictly parallel to the eaves.

When installing the snow catcher (its upper part), it is necessary to use a reinforcing bar. It is attached simultaneously with the upper edge of the element with ridge screws directly to the crate through the upper point of each wave. The edge of the bottom is attached according to the same principle, only in every second wave. If the slopes are large, the snow catchers are placed in several rows.

Installation of gutters

Installation of a drainage system requires the following tools:

marking cord
screwdriver
ruler or tape measure
scissors and hacksaw
pliers
rubber or wooden mallet

Before laying metal tiles on a cornice board or rafters, you must first install long hooks. If, for some reason, the hooks have to be mounted after laying the coating, they are fixed on the frontal board and made shorter in size. But it's not the best The best way, as fastening with long hooks is more durable.

The step between the hooks of both the first and second types should be from 60cm to 90cm. Large distances are irrational, since the structure in this case may not withstand the pressure of a snow or ice mass. Where there are joints of the gutters, additional hooks are required.

To ensure a better flow of moisture, the slope of the gutter should decrease with each running meter by 5mm. To accomplish this task, before installation, you need to markup taking into account vertical displacement hooks.

When calculating the number of funnels, you need to keep in mind that one pipe should have no more than 10 meters of gutter and 120m2 of roof area. To ensure that moisture drains into the funnel, a V-shaped hole must be cut in the gutter. Its width should be no more than 110mm, and the distance from the cutout to the top of the gutter should be at least 15mm. The optimal gap between the funnel and the gutter end is 150mm. Mounting process:

funnel should be put on the gutter
fastening is done on the outer side of the gutter, there must be a rolled side in the lock
finally fixed by bending the clamps into the inside of the gutter

The end parts of the gutter must be equipped with plugs (in case they are open and do not fit with anything). The junction of the gutter and the plug is treated with silicone sealant. Rivets can also be used.

When the gutters are installed, it is the turn of the cornice strip. Its lower part should be in the gutter so that the frontal board does not get wet.

Water must flow into the gutter unhindered, this is ensured by a waterproofing film under the plank.

In order for the drainage system to function normally, a complete inspection of all drains is carried out once a year, and cleaning of funnels and gutters from debris should be done regularly.

Roof grounding

The roof must be grounded additionally, regardless of the lightning rod. This ensures the safety of residents in the event of a direct lightning strike on the roof.

Completion of works: finishing touches

After the installation of the roof from the tiles is completed, it must be put in order: remove construction garbage Treat damaged areas with paint to prevent rust. After three months, the broaching of self-tapping screws is mandatory.

During operation, a roof made of metal tiles requires regular care. Twice a year it needs to be cleaned of debris, dry leaves and other items. This work is done with a cloth or soft brush. The fastest way to do the procedure is with a water jet - from top to bottom. To walk on the roof, so as not to damage, preferably only in soft shoes.