Polycarbonate canopies can be used for a variety of needs. These are hanging canopies over the balcony and porch; covered parking for passenger cars and agricultural machinery; covered passages between the house and the bathhouse, summer kitchen, sheds, etc.
This article will cover different types canopies for a polycarbonate house, features of the choice of materials for the frame, calculations of buildings. You will also find here step by step guide for the construction of a structure based on a metal profile.
Types, calculation and design of canopies, choice of frame material
The most popular options for canopies and awnings made of polycarbonate are arched, cascading, single- and double-sloped. They all have their own advantages and disadvantages.
Arched structures
Arched polycarbonate canopies in the yard are considered the most popular today, especially for organizing parking lots and galleries between the house and outbuildings.
- The semicircular shape of the arch prevents snow from accumulating on the roof.
- When it rains, water drains only on two sides.
- Due to the downward facing sides, the likelihood of the canopy being damaged by wind is quite low.
- The arched design is equally suitable for both a small canopy over the porch and a spacious parking lot for several cars.
The arched polycarbonate canopy has one drawback - if you make it yourself, you may face the problem of bending the profiles.
Arched polycarbonate canopy: the photo shows an indoor parking lot
Cascade system
Cascading canopies are, in fact, a system of several arched ones. This design is chosen for installation above flights of stairs, where the roof slope is very large. And there are two reasons for this:
- When it rains, water pours from the solid arched roof, located at a high angle, into the space in front of the first steps, hitting those entering. With a cascade arrangement of roofing elements, water flows to the sides.
- The aesthetic side of the issue. Several cascading arched polycarbonate canopies look much more interesting than one solid one pointing downwards.
The disadvantages of such a system are the complexity of the design, high time and material costs.
Arched polycarbonate canopy attached to the house: photo of a three-stage system
Shed roof
A lean-to polycarbonate canopy is the easiest option to build:
- No bending of profiles is required, as is the case with arched roofs.
- No bending of polycarbonate sheets is required. Accordingly, you are not limited in choosing the thickness of the roofing material.
- During construction, you can do without using roof trusses, only longitudinal and transverse beams will be sufficient.
Shed structures are often used when attaching a canopy to the wall of a house or garage. The disadvantage is that the roof has a slight slope; in winter, snow will accumulate on it.
Wooden canopy made of polycarbonate: photo of a lean-to structure
Gable canopy
In construction, it is a little more difficult than a single-slope one, since it requires two slopes to be brought together at a certain angle. However, this construction is also more convenient to use:
- Slopes lowered on both sides provide better protection from wind and precipitation compared to a single slope.
- The angle of the roof is greater here, which means less snow will accumulate on it in winter.
- Frame gable roof It turns out rigid, thanks to which it resists wind loads well.
A gable canopy made of polycarbonate can be used for various purposes: for parking lots, barbecues, barbecue ovens, porches, pavilions between outbuildings.
Gable roof over barbecue oven
Calculation and design of polycarbonate canopies
Even at the stage of creating a project, before starting to calculate a polycarbonate canopy from a profile pipe, you need to find out the following for yourself:
- Size and location of the future building.
- Wind and snow loads - these parameters affect the shape of the roof structure.
- The design of a private house and outbuildings - the choice of frame design and the color of polycarbonate sheets depends on this.
- Specifications of available/desired building materials.
Armed with this information, we move on to calculating and drawing up a drawing of a polycarbonate canopy. Here we already indicate exactly: the dimensions of the building and the shape of the roof; technical specifications material of supports, frame and roof; quantity and nature of fastening elements.
Please note:when determining the features of the structural frame, it must be taken into account that polycarbonate is produced in sheets standard sizes. Their joints must necessarily fall on the transverse profiles - the sheathing.How to make a polycarbonate canopy: the width of the purlins between the sheathing profiles depends on the parameters of the roofing material
And now about the height of polycarbonate canopies. In principle, it can be anything - it all depends on your needs and wishes. However, for comfortable use of the building, it will be better if the lowest point of its roof is at least 180 cm above the ground.
The parameters of support posts for the manufacture of canopies and canopies made of polycarbonate must be calculated based on the following figures:
- The minimum cross-section is 40x40 mm.
- Metal thickness – from 1 mm.
- The thickness of the foundation pillars must exceed the cross-section of the racks by at least 10 mm.
- The recommended depth of foundation pits is from 50 cm.
- For the sidewalls of rafter trusses, a profile with a cross-section of 20 mm is taken, for diagonal gratings - from 15 mm.
How to make a polycarbonate canopy with your own hands: the drawings must be very detailed
Please note:It is better to entrust the design of structures with an area of 8 m2 or more to specialists. The roof area here will be large, which means it will be necessary to accurately calculate the level of snow and wind loads. Errors can lead to deformation or collapse of the building.Choosing material for the frame
Typically, the following materials are used to make polycarbonate canopies:
- Metal profile. Durable, easy to install and unpretentious to use. Requires minimal maintenance - only timely treatment with anti-corrosion agents. Flaws - heavy weight designs and high price.
- Metal pipes. The advantages are the same as metal profiles. The only thing is that the rounded cross-sectional shape is not so convenient for welding and other types of fasteners.
- Wood – profiled or ordinary timber, rounded log. A beautiful, lively material, suitable if the canopy should be stylized as something. During construction wooden canopy Do-it-yourself polycarbonate will require certain carpentry skills.
Wooden frame
DIY polycarbonate canopy construction
The longest part of construction is creating the foundation. The frame itself and the mounting on it roofing sheets It will take at most one and a half working days.
Installation of support pillars and installation of bindings
We install support pillars in the following way:
- We dig foundation holes - 50 cm deep and 30 cm in diameter.
- We install a reinforcement cage inside.
- Fill the holes with a cement-sand (3/1) mixture, cover with cellophane and leave to harden for several days.
- We fasten the supports to the foundation with anchors.
Concreting supports
We tie the supports along the tops with a single beam; the front part of the canopy will then rest on it. This dressing is best done from a square or rectangular section. Usage round pipe This is undesirable, since the abutment area of the elements during welding will be too small.
A polycarbonate canopy attached to the house: the photo shows the location of the front supports
Please note:The attachment of the canopy to the wall is carried out on a beam attached to the surface with anchor bolts. On required height, checking with building level, mark a line along which holes for fasteners are then drilled. Next, screw the beam onto the wall, tightening the bolts well.We make a canopy for the house from polycarbonate: the photo shows the installation stage of the binding
Bend the profile for the roof frame
If the polycarbonate garden canopy has an arched roof, then we will have to think about how to bend the profiled pipe. This can be done in several ways:
- Using a pipe bending machine. Such a device is expensive, and it makes no sense to buy it just for the construction of a canopy.
- By cutting (6-8 mm) the pipe and bending it into the opposite side. The cuts are then covered with metal “patches”.
- Manual bending of a preheated profile. To prevent flattening of the pipe, sand is compacted inside before work.
Manual pipe bending machine
Welding the canopy frame
We begin welding the frame by assembling the trusses. This is done on the ground, with the obligatory use of a building level. We start welding the diagonal slats onto parallel profiles from the edges, gradually moving towards the center. Magnets for welding will greatly facilitate the work - they are good for setting angles between parts.
In the following video you can see how welding magnets are used.
We place the finished polycarbonate trusses for the canopy on the binding and on the support of the front part. We bait it pointwise and then weld it. All elements must stand strictly vertically, so after installation we check the correct installation with a building level. If necessary, we slightly adjust the position using a sledgehammer.
A canopy attached to the house, made of polycarbonate: photo of the installation of roof trusses
Across the trusses we make purlins from a thin profile of rectangular cross-section. The distance between the parts is from 50 to 60 cm.
Installation of purlins
Next, we proceed to the installation of the sidewalls. We weld sections of the profile to the bases of the outer trusses and screw them along the entire length to the walls. From the lower edges of the sections to the ends of the trusses we stretch and weld profiles of the same thickness. we do a couple or three cross lintels. You can see what it looks like at next photo. The frame is ready, you can begin installing the polycarbonate.
Sidewall work
Fastening cellular polycarbonate to the frame
And now about how to attach polycarbonate to metal frame canopy Installation is carried out using special fastenings– thermal washers. They consist of sealing and plastic washers, as well as a plug for them. All this is tightened with ordinary self-tapping screws. Special attention three points should be taken into account:
- Strict vertical screwing of self-tapping screws.
- Moderate tightening of fasteners. Insufficient application will not ensure the proper quality of installation, and excessive application can lead to damage to the surface of the material.
- There should be at least 4 cm from the sheet cuts to the boundaries of the hole for the self-tapping screw.
- The hole for the screw should be 2-3 mm larger diameter the last one.
How to properly attach polycarbonate to a canopy: you need to use special thermal washers
In addition to thermal washers, the following fittings are used during the installation of polycarbonate:
- Detachable profile. Used to join two sheets of material together. It consists of a base and a cover - the base is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws, and the cover is fastened to it using a special lock.
- End profile and punched tape. They are used for finishing cuts on polycarbonate sheets. First, punched paper tape is glued along their entire length, and then the end profile is fixed to it.
Additional accessories
Polycarbonate canopies – street structures, universal for economic purposes. Lightweight material, flexible, translucent in large color scheme, convenient format, presented in different thickness, which allows you to design canopies of simple and complex curved shapes. The buildings look light, elegant, do not overload the landscape, and fit into any stylistic solution of the architectural ensemble on the site.
In the article we will give step by step instructions, how to make a polycarbonate canopy with your own hands, how to choose the right shape, calculate and design the structure.
What you need to know about polycarbonate canopies - general criteria
The production of polycarbonate canopies has become popular due to the ease of installation, practicality of the material, and aesthetics of buildings. There are:
- independent, free-standing - canopies over the pool, greenhouses, car parking, gazebos, outbuildings for various purposes;
- attached to the building: bathhouse, garage - verandas, terraces, canopies over the porch and gate;
- mobile - easily move around the site, usually over barbecues and small gazebos.
Sheds attached to a polycarbonate house, photos of large curved extensions
These are simple rectangular or complex, curvilinear structures, sometimes two-story, for example, above a garage or summer kitchen. Open and closed type, for this side walls they are glazed, covered with panels, a beautiful lattice, clapboard, blockhouse, or covered with thick curtains.
Indoor polycarbonate canopy
Polycarbonate support canopy attached to the house, photo of a curved roof
Canopies consist of supporting vertical posts and a roof. The frame is made of wood, metal, less often of concrete, stone, brick.
Typical drawing of a freestanding polycarbonate canopy
Wooden sheds with polycarbonate roofing
Production of canopies and canopies from polycarbonate wooden base- the most budget-friendly and easiest way to make a small one yourself architectural form on the site. Work does not require professional equipment, enough household hand tools. To build a wooden polycarbonate canopy with your own hands, you use glued and profiled beams 100*100 or 150*150 mm, rounded logs ∅150-200 mm, tree trunks, strapping and mauerlat made from the same material. For the rafter system of outbuildings, according to SNiP, it is necessary edged board 40*100 mm.
Sketch of a wooden polycarbonate canopy
The main disadvantages are flammability, poor moisture resistance resulting in rotting, fungal infections, loss of strength and aesthetics. Rodents and small bugs can damage load-bearing elements significant harm. Wooden canopies and polycarbonate canopies must be treated with fire-resistant compounds, an antiseptic, and a durable finish protective layer from oil or varnish.
A polycarbonate canopy attached to the house, in the photo there is a structure with a sloping roof
Metal canopies
Before making a polycarbonate canopy on a metal frame, you should choose the type of construction:
- Welded from profiled or round pipes are the most popular polycarbonate canopies. For vertical racks they use pipes ∅50-150 mm, depending on the size of the building; for piping - a profile with an edge of 40-80 mm, for a farm -25-50 mm.
- Forged ones are beautiful, elegant, but quite expensive from a financial point of view. On the construction market you can buy stamped forged parts and create an exclusive product yourself.
- Prefabricated aluminum.
Canopy for the house made of polycarbonate, in the photo there is a hanging forged canopy of a cantilever type
For polycarbonate canopies up to 5 m, use a profile with a wall thickness of 2 mm, a cross-section of 40*20 mm, for buildings over 5.5 m, you will need a rental of 3*40*40 or 2*30*60 mm.
An example of how to make a polycarbonate canopy with your own hands, drawings of an arched structure
An iron canopy will last for decades, although its main enemy is corrosion. It is necessary to clean the parts with a stiff brush from rust, scale, oil stains, go over the entire surface with an abrasive, then rinse with a solvent. Next, cover with primer, paint, it’s better hammer paint, it copes well with chemical, biological and mechanical loads.
Sketch of a suspended polycarbonate canopy over the entrance
Brick, stone and concrete
Brick, concrete, stone polycarbonate canopies in the yard look impressive, but light and not bulky, thanks to the translucency of polycarbonate. They do not require maintenance during operation, are fire resistant, tolerate harmful atmospheric influences well, physical and mechanical influences, although they require significant temporary and financial costs. While canopies made from other materials can be disassembled and moved, such structures are stationary and cannot be dismantled.
Polycarbonate canopies, photo interesting ideas presented in the gallery, there are also quite a lot of pictures and projects on the network, there are single- and double-sloped, arched, cascading, less common are conical, domed, and wavy.
Typical options for polycarbonate canopies
Making the base is not difficult; it is enough to take into account the wind and snow loads in the region, but rafter system requires serious calculations.
- According to the characteristic outlines of the contour - polygonal, triangular, broken parallel belts.
- By type of lattice - rhombic, triangular, semi-diagonal, diagonal.
- According to the method of support - cantilever, beam, arched, beam-cantilever.
Cascade support-cantilever canopy made of polycarbonate
The simplest option is lean-to canopy made of polycarbonate, optimal angle roof slope 22-30 o. The rafters are made of wood or it is a truss - a horizontal, curved or triangular frame with supporting braces, angled posts inside the main structure.
Scheme for a lean-to building
To create a project you need:
- Diagram of the canopy with the type of roof; the type of lower and upper belts depends on this.
- Drawings of polycarbonate canopies must include the dimensions of the structure, since the load changes in direct proportion to the dimensions. It is important to determine the upper as well as the lower point of the slope; the lower the slope, the more snow will accumulate on the roof.
- Take into account the size of the panels; the distance between the rafters depends on this, so that the edge does not fall into the void.
- Wind and snow load in the region can be found using special tables.
Gable polycarbonate canopy - project with forged elements
Trusses are calculated according to the SNiP regulations in section 2.01.07-85, this is difficult for independent calculations, engineering education is required, also special software. To avoid errors it is recommended to use online calculator or take finished project. Loads and impacts are specified in SNiP standards in part 2.01.07-85, rules for manufacturing metal structures- P-23-81 SNiP.
Arched canopies made of polycarbonate, in the photo there are sketches for small buildings
To avoid getting confused in complex calculations, use the following recommendations:
- With a slope of 22-30 o in a building 6-12 m wide, the height and length of the triangular truss should have a proportion of 1:5;
- If the slope is 15-22 o, the dimensions are in the proportion of 1:5, but the braces must be low-sloping, this must be done even number belts, optimally – 8.
- A smaller slope is suitable for larger industrial buildings, engineering calculations are required here; the length and height of the run should be in the proportions of 1:7, 1:9.
Simple diagrams on how to make rafters for a polycarbonate canopy
Calculation of a polycarbonate canopy from a profile pipe
Let's take a canopy as a basis, size 6000*4000 mm, this ergonomic solution: comfortable gazebo or covered parking for a car.
Standard dimensions of polycarbonate in width and length:
For private buildings, a sheet thickness of 6-12 mm is suitable.
Polycarbonate performance table
Trusses must be placed under each edge and in the middle of the sheets, so the distance between them will be 1 m.
For the racks, we will take a pipe ∅80-100 mm, the pitch is 2.0 m along the long side of the canopy. For the roof:
- main elements – profile pipe 30*30 mm, the length of the lower ones is 3.1 m, remember the Pythagorean theorem: the square of the hypotenuse is equal to the sum of the squares of the legs, we calculate the length of the upper ones, in our case - 3.9 m;
- inclined spacers - profile pipe 20*20 mm, location - at an angle of 25 degrees.
We will install perpendicular jumpers every 0.5 m from each other.
Standard diagram of a small farm
Step-by-step instructions on how to build a polycarbonate canopy for your house yourself
To cook metal awnings For a polycarbonate dacha, a number of conditions must be met:
- Details as well load-bearing elements should not be cracked.
- The roughness of the end of the supporting rib is determined by 2789-73 GOST - Ra £ 12.5 microns.
- It is unacceptable to use steel with an internal layer and coarse slag inclusions for the lower chord of the truss.
- According to GOST 14771-76, connections are best performed by mechanical welding, in a carbon dioxide environment or its mixture with argon.
- According to GOST 2246-70 and 26271-84, it is recommended to use PP-AN-8 welding wire.
- To fasten rafters to sub-rafter elements and vertical columns, class 5.8 bolts are used according to GOST clause 7798-70.
Drawing of an asymmetric arched canopy
Practical construction
We mark the place for the pillars, dig holes 700 mm deep, make a cushion of 100 mm sandstone, 100 mm crushed stone, and tamp it. We pour 100-200 mm of concrete into the bottom, install a pillar in it, insert it with force, in a circular motion, so that it goes deep. We fill the hole with concrete, check the plumb line, correct it if necessary, and also strengthen it with supporting slopes.
Important: Professionals recommend placing supports along the house, but if this is not possible, then load-bearing wall a beam of 60, 80*80 mm should be placed on the anchors, the trusses should be supported on it, connected by welding, this will allow the load to be distributed over the entire surface.
A way to secure vertical supports
When the solution has completely risen, we tie the pillars together at their heads, check the geometry, the diagonals must be equal.
It is better to cook farms on the ground, according to the chosen scheme; the most common ones are shown in the photo above. The finished parts are lifted and distributed evenly along the harness, in our case, every meter. The fastening points of the longitudinal strips and rafters are made using steel gussets, as well as welding or bolting.
The next stage is the sheathing (perpendicular purlins), from a 20*40 mm pipe, with a pitch of 400-600 mm, and sheets will be attached to it. The finished metal structure is cleaned and then painted.
The purlins will strengthen the frame, this will allow the polycarbonate to be fixed more securely
Watch video tips on how to properly attach a polycarbonate canopy to your house, this will help you avoid major mistakes when building with your own hands.
How to work with polycarbonate correctly
Cutting polycarbonate is better circular saw, equipped carbide disc with undetected fine teeth. Holes should be made using a drill with a metal drill, between the stiffening ribs. At the upper ends of the honeycomb panels, strips should be installed and self-adhesive tape for sealing, the lower ones cannot be closed.
There are 2 ways in total:
- Thermal washers - the holes are made 2 mm larger than the mounting leg; the part should fit tightly until it clicks. The length of the washer is equal to the thickness of the polycarbonate; it is necessarily equipped with an elastic band that seals the connection, which prevents precipitation and dust from getting inside. This type of fastening is called a point fastening; the washer tightly holds the polycarbonate and prevents it from deforming when heated.
How to secure polycarbonate to a canopy using a thermal washer
- A special profile is a strip with grooves on both sides into which polycarbonate is inserted. The method is preferable if the sheets have to be joined. The edges are screwed with thermal washers. Profiles are provided for different connection: corner, docking, one-piece, wall, detachable and special for docking, if you need to change the roof configuration.
Photo instructions on how to attach polycarbonate to a metal canopy frame using a profile
There is also a wet method, the panels are attached with putty, but if you are making a canopy with your own hands, then it is better to limit yourself to the previous 2 tips.
Types of fastening polycarbonate to the sheathing
Arched polycarbonate canopies and other structures, 30 PHOTOS, as well as diagrams and types of trusses, making and installing a polycarbonate canopy with your own hands
Arched and gable canopies attached to a polycarbonate house, photos of structures. Choosing trusses, making and installing a polycarbonate canopy with your own hands
Do-it-yourself polycarbonate canopies for a private house
Living in a private house, it is stupid to constantly be within four walls. And for a comfortable stay on the adjacent site, some kind of roof is needed. Preferably close to home. Or in other words – a canopy.
Canopies made of polycarbonate. Durable and practical design.
Types of canopies
A canopy, if you remove all the husks, is primarily a roof. It could be:
- Without supports or with racks.
- Stand alone.
- Attached to the house.
In any case, the presence of walls is not specified. And the shape of the coating varies quite a lot. But the gradation is quite simple. Coverage can be:
1. Direct. It in turn is divided into:
2. Figured. They have more gradations:
- Concave.
- Convex, or marquise. And depending on the ratio of the linear dimensions to each other and the method of arrangement of the guides, awnings can be made in the form of:
- Domes.
- Elongated dome.
- Arches.
- Elongated arch.
Various options for canopies. For every taste.
To make a canopy with your own hands, it is better not to consider shaped options. They require enviable skill and equipment to create bent profiles in strict accordance with the drawings. In this case, the curvature of the guides must be maintained along the entire length of each plank. The slightest deviation will visibly manifest itself during installation.
Direct awnings are much easier to make. It will take no more than one day to create them, and they will delight you for quite a long time.
Criteria for optimal canopy selection
We stopped at a straight awning. It’s easy to make it with your own hands, but you need to figure out the number of slopes and the degree of inclination.
A gable canopy is usually made over front door. It provides protection against rain penetration through open door. And nothing more. Its size is too small to allow you to rest under it. Organization of a gable canopy large sizes, will require an unjustified increase in material costs. This means that what remains is a lean-to canopy.
The angle of inclination is a little more difficult to figure out. To do this, we need to consider a cross-section of a lean-to canopy. It looks like a right triangle with:
- The vertical leg is attached to the wall.
- The horizontal leg is parallel to the ground.
- The hypotenuse is the canopy.
Canopy material and dimensions
To organize a canopy you will need:
Polycarbonate for a canopy is ideal for the following reasons.
For a canopy, it is best to use cellular polycarbonate with a thickness of 8 mm or more.
- The cheapest of transparent materials.
- Has the highest strength.
- It is safe when destroyed (it does not produce sharp fragments).
- Easy to process.
- Available in any region.
And what captivates him most of all is long term service - 10 years.
The choice of color is the prerogative of the owner, but we would recommend green.
Now let's calculate the dimensions and amount of material.
The length and width of the canopy are selected purely individually. It is impossible to make recommendations without knowing the size of the house and your desires. As a recommendation, we recommend making the length of the canopy a multiple of 2 m. This will avoid unnecessary work on adjusting the polycarbonate.
To calculate the quantity required material, to install a polycarbonate canopy you will need to measure several planes.
To calculate the length of the beam, again consider the canopy with a section, that is, like a triangle. And let’s remember the school geometry course for the 6th grade. And so, we have:
- The lower part of the canopy, or adjacent leg – A.
- The vertical part of the canopy adjacent to the wall, or the opposite leg - B.
- Hypotenuse, or canopy covering - C.
- Angle between A and C = 30°
- Tangent is the ratio of the opposite side (B) to the adjacent side (A). For an angle of 30°, the tangent is 0.577.
- If the length of the lower leg is 4 m, then the vertical leg is 4 x 0.577 = 2.3 m.
- We calculate the length of the canopy, or hypotenuse, using the cosine. That is, through the ratio of the adjacent leg (A) to the hypotenuse (C). For an angle of 30°, the cosine value is 0.866.
- Length of the hypotenuse (C) = 4/0.866 = 4.62 m.
You will need timber of various sizes.
In addition, you will need the following material sizes:
- Beam 200x100x6000 – 1 pc. (mauerlat between pillars)
- Beam 200x100x6000 – 2 pcs. (bench and skating run)
- Beam 150x100x4000 – 6 pcs. (contractions)
- Beam 150x100x4620 – 6 pcs. (rafters)
- Beam 100Х100х2100 – 2 pcs. (vertical fixation on the wall)
- Polycarbonate, width 2 m, length 4.7 m – 3 pcs.
- Asbestos-cement pipes ∅150 mm, 4 m long – 2 pcs.
- Connecting one-piece profile for polycarbonate – 15 m.
- End profile for polycarbonate – 16 m.
Consumables: self-tapping screws for timber and polycarbonate, plates and angles for fastening timber, a bag of cement and 3 bags of ASG, a kilogram of steel fiber, two pins 1 30 and ∅2 cm long.
Sequence of work
There are many options for installing poles. Which one to choose is up to you.
Marking and installation of poles
Mark on the ground a place for the future canopy so that its long side (6 m) is adjacent to the wall of the house. As a result, two corners of the canopy will be adjacent to the house, and two will be at a distance of 4 m. It is necessary to dig holes in these two corners. The depth of the pit, you must adjust the height of the canopy. That is, taking into account the height of the asbestos-cement pillars (4 m) + the height of the timber (0.2 m), you determine the height of the canopy. Remember, the minimum depth of the hole should be 1 m.
A 10 cm layer of sand is poured onto the bottom of the pit and pillars are installed. The distance between the pillars should be 5.85 m. Please note that the distance is measured not between centers, but between the nearest points. Considering that 7.5 cm is half the diameter, then in total the distance between the centers of the pillars will be 5.85 + (0.075 + 0.075) = 6 m.
In the same way, the distance from the wall to the pipe is controlled, but the distance is already 3.93 m.
IMPORTANT: in both cases, the distance must be the same along the entire height of the pillar. This confirms the verticality of the installation, which is controlled by a plumb line.
The lower part of the post should be wrapped with a piece of roofing felt, which inside it must be thickly lubricated with grease. This procedure, coupled with sand cushion, will protect against squeezing out the support in case of possible swelling of the soil during frosts.
Concreting of supports. For dispersed reinforcement, use steel fiber in an amount of 0.7% of the total volume of the mixture.
The pit is filled with large crushed stone, and a small, 20-30 cm layer of concrete is poured on top. At the same time, concrete must be poured into the pipes themselves. This operation will serve as insurance for the stability of the support in case of damage. The volume of one pipe ∅15 cm and height 4 m is approximately equal to 70 liters. Filling two pillars and holes will require about 200 liters of concrete. To mix it, use a bag of cement and 3 bags of ASG. IMPORTANT: On top of each pipe, it is necessary to bury a pre-prepared wooden cube with a side of 10 cm flush in the concrete. The timber will be attached to it. For better fixation, in bottom side cube, you can screw in a few large self-tapping screws.
After pouring, once again check the verticality of the installation and the distance between the control points.
The time it takes for concrete to gain sufficient strength to further work, at an air temperature of 20-25°C, approximately 3 days. During this time, you can complete the second stage.
Installation of a support on the wall of a house
It is necessary to fix 2 horizontal beams on the wall.
The lower beam, the beam, must be fixed at such a height that its upper side is 20 cm higher than the level of the pillar.
The upper beam, the ridge girder, is fixed parallel to the beam. In this case, the distance between them should be 2.1 m. Taking into account the size of the ridge girder, this will give a height of 2.3 m. That is, it will allow maintaining an inclination angle of 30°.
Both beams are attached to the wall using corners that are placed around each element. This approach is less complicated, because screwing self-tapping screws into a wall through 100 mm thick timber is extremely difficult. The corners should be twisted every 70-80 cm along the entire perimeter of the beam. One element will require 15-17 corners.
Between ridge run and we lie down, two are installed vertical beams. They can be placed 20-30 cm from the edge of the structure. They should be secured only to horizontal structural elements through plates and corners.
IMPORTANT: During work, constantly monitor with laser level horizontal fit of elements. And before screwing the screws into the timber, be sure to drill a hole ∅1.5-2 mm.
Laying the mauerlat, fastening rafters and contractions
After the concrete has hardened, you can determine the location of the Mauerlat. It is laid on the end, and to fix it it is necessary to drill two through holes(one on each side). The continuation of these holes should be in wooden cubes that are recessed into the pillars. Pins 1 are inserted into these holes. Rigid fastening is not required here. Since the Mauerlat will be pressed down by the total weight of the structure, and the slight vertical mobility will protect the structure from destruction in the event of soil swelling in winter.
Fastenings are made using angles and plates.
Important: When working with the Mauerlat, check its horizontalness using a laser level. Remember that the upper end of the Mauerlat must be in the same plane with the upper end of the bench.
The next step is to record contractions. The first two of them are attached to the edges of the structure and fixed with corners on the sides and top, and with plates at the bottom. Please note that the mauerlat and the bench have a height of 200 mm, and the contractions are 150. Therefore, they must be aligned along the lower end!
After attaching the two extreme contractions, the remaining 4 are installed and fixed in the same way, on equal distance from each other.
The last step is installation of the rafters. Start working with the outermost elements. But unlike scrums, each rafter must be sawed off at the ends for a tight fit on both sides: to the ridge passage and the corner between the mauerlat and the scrum. Important feature this stage, is the ability to determine the quality of execution previous works.
The fact is that all six rafters must be sawed down equally if the accuracy and scrupulousness of the previous work was carried out on high level. Therefore, first attach one rafter to the place of fixation, mark the sawing points, and after adjustment, try to attach it to the other 5 points. If the discrepancies are not too large, then the reason may be linear defects in the lumber. And if the parameters match at all 6 fixation points, the work can be considered excellent.
Canopy structure installation diagram
But first you need to prepare, lay and fix all the rafters. Remember that on the top of the rafters there should be no protruding screw heads, much less plates.
Flooring cellular polycarbonate
On last stage Only three sheets of polycarbonate need to be laid. The first sheet can be fixed without stepping on it, but by securing screws from a ladder or stepladder placed on the side. In this case, the screws must be screwed into each rafter, the step between each fixation element is 50 cm.
Each sheet of cellular polycarbonate is closed at the ends with a profile, and between them it is necessary to secure a connecting one-piece profile. When attaching the second and third sheets, to tighten the screws, you will need to climb onto the surface of the canopy. To protect the polycarbonate from damage and your own safety, use a board 40-50 cm wide. The steps are placed on it. It is still better to perform this stage of work together, using a safety, mounting belt.
You will have to work from a ladder, so be careful and careful.
Don't forget the following points:
- After fixing the polycarbonate sheet, remove the protective film from it.
- Cellular polycarbonate is fixed with special screws.
- Before tightening the self-tapping screw, you need to drill a hole in the polycarbonate, the ∅ of which is slightly larger than the same parameter as the self-tapping screw.
- All lumber should be treated with drying oil.
Canopy Decoration
By and large, this beautiful canopy it can't be done better. But under it you can do original lighting. Let's say using LED strip.
If necessary, the triangular ends of the canopy can be covered with cellular polycarbonate. Moreover, this requires only two cuts standard width(2 m) and 2.4 m long.
If desired, you can arrange a circular curtain made of tarapulin or tarpaulin. Some owners of such canopies approach this creatively, and such curtains can very quickly be rolled up and fixed on top.
The main thing is that you already have a canopy made of cellular polycarbonate, assembled with your own hands. And decoration and decoration is a matter of time.
DIY polycarbonate house canopies, photos, instructions, drawings, video
How to build a polycarbonate canopy for your house with your own hands - step by step instructions, selection and calculation of the amount of material for construction, installation to the wall of the house, polycarbonate coating.
Very convenient solution to create a recreation area or closed parking for a car in the country - a canopy made of modern, beautiful plastic polycarbonate material. The canopy does not take up much space, it does not need to be registered as real estate, and it is quickly and easily built on your own. The canopy can be placed close to the fence, to the garage, or attached to the wall of the house: then the cost of its construction will be minimal.
The canopy can be built on metal or wooden frame. Wooden building materials are inexpensive and do not require the use of a welding machine during construction. Wood is a lightweight material, easy to process. The metal frame is more durable, but requires some skill in working with metal. The simplest and most convenient option for self-made- This is an attached canopy.
Preparatory work
- Before starting work, you should definitely spend time creating a schematic drawing that shows all the dimensions of the canopy, the location of the trusses and crossbars.
- Except general drawing, you need to take care of creating a farm diagram with actual dimensions. Trusses and other frame elements can be supported on fence supports.
- The shape of the canopy roof can be pitched, arched, curved, or gable. In the photos you can see the wing-shaped roof.
To make a canopy you will need welding machine, grinder, screwdriver, drill. It is better to enlist the help of someone in the household - it will be difficult to install the trusses alone.
For installation of trusses, optimal solution there will be a profiled pipe of rectangular section 20 by 40 mm. For the main frame, you can take a profiled pipe with a cross-section of 80 by 80 mm. Polycarbonate is selected depending on the shape of the roof:
- for a straight roof - from 10 mm,
- for a curved roof - from 8 mm.
Polycarbonate should be selected in accordance with the style concept of the color or with the required degree of toning.
All metal parts must be treated several times with an anti-corrosion primer to prevent rusting. When processing, special attention should be paid to those parts of the supports that will be underground or in contact with it.
Installation of supports
- On the site, the perimeter of the frame is drawn, all corners are checked for level.
- The distance between supports should be no more than three meters.
- There are several ways to secure supports.
![](https://i2.wp.com/navesmaster.ru/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/44.jpg)
Frame making
To bend the arcs you will need a pipe bender. Working with a pipe bender is not difficult: the pipe is inserted between the rollers and a certain bending radius is set.
![](https://i1.wp.com/navesmaster.ru/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/43.jpg)
How to work with polycarbonate
Working with polycarbonate is not difficult, but there are some general recommendations that you should adhere to:
![](https://i0.wp.com/navesmaster.ru/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/412.jpg)
How to install polycarbonate on a frame
![](https://i2.wp.com/navesmaster.ru/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/48.jpg)
The polycarbonate installation is complete. Now the canopy will only require regular inspection, care and cleaning.
Possible errors when working with polycarbonate
The quality of the canopy depends on the quality of the material and compliance with all installation rules. The most common mistakes which are allowed when working with plastic:
![](https://i1.wp.com/navesmaster.ru/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/410.jpg)
How to glue polycarbonate
Sometimes, after building a gazebo or large canopy, small pieces of polycarbonate remain that are a pity to throw away. From such pieces you can make a small decorative canopy over a bench, bridge or porch.
For gluing polycarbonates, special one- and two-component adhesives are used. One-component adhesives are mainly used for gluing polycarbonate to structural parts made of other materials. For gluing polycarbonate sheets to each other, two-component acrylic, ethylene vinyl acetate, polyurethane adhesives. Silicone glue will help glue sheets of any thickness.
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Polycarbonate canopies are outdoor structures, universal for economic purposes. The material is light, flexible, translucent in a wide range of colors, convenient formats, available in different thicknesses, which allows you to design canopies of simple and complex curved shapes. The buildings look light, elegant, do not overload the landscape, and fit into any stylistic solution of the architectural ensemble on the site.
In the article we will give step-by-step instructions on how to make a polycarbonate canopy with your own hands, how to choose the right shape, calculate and design the structure.
What you need to know about polycarbonate canopies - general criteria
The production of polycarbonate canopies has become popular due to the ease of installation, practicality of the material, and aesthetics of buildings. There are:
- independent, free-standing - canopies over the pool, greenhouses, car parking, gazebos, outbuildings for various purposes;
- attached to the building: bathhouse, garage - verandas, terraces, canopies over the porch and gate;
- mobile - easily move around the site, usually over barbecues and small gazebos.
Sheds attached to a polycarbonate house, photos of large curved extensions
These are simple rectangular or complex, curvilinear structures, sometimes two-story, for example, above a garage or summer kitchen. Open and closed type; for this, the side walls are glazed, covered with panels, beautiful lattice, clapboard, blockhouse, or covered with thick curtains.
Indoor polycarbonate canopy
Advice: Soft transparent sliding windows aluminum systems– most universal option: do not block the view, open easily, and closed keep warm well.Polycarbonate support canopy attached to the house, photo of a curved roof
Canopies consist of supporting vertical posts and a roof. The frame is made of wood, metal, less often of concrete, stone, brick.
Typical drawing of a freestanding polycarbonate canopy
Wooden sheds with polycarbonate roofing
Making canopies and canopies from polycarbonate on a wooden base is the most cost-effective and easiest way to independently create a small architectural form on your site. The work does not require professional equipment; household hand tools are sufficient. To build a wooden polycarbonate canopy with your own hands, you use glued and profiled beams 100*100 or 150*150 mm, rounded logs ∅150-200 mm, tree trunks, strapping and mauerlat made from the same material. For the rafter system of outbuildings, according to SNiP, a 40*100 mm edged board is required.
Sketch of a wooden polycarbonate canopy
The main disadvantages are flammability, poor moisture resistance resulting in rotting, fungal infections, loss of strength and aesthetics. Rodents and small bugs can cause significant damage to load-bearing elements. Wooden canopies and polycarbonate canopies must be treated with fire-resistant compounds, an antiseptic, and a durable finishing protective layer of oil or varnish.
A polycarbonate canopy attached to the house, in the photo there is a structure with a sloping roof
Metal canopies
Before making a polycarbonate canopy on a metal frame, you should choose the type of construction:
- Welded from profiled or round pipes are the most popular polycarbonate canopies. For vertical posts, pipes with a diameter of 50-150 mm are used, depending on the size of the building, for piping - a profile with an edge of 40-80 mm, for a farm - 25-50 mm.
- Forged ones are beautiful, elegant, but quite expensive from a financial point of view. On the construction market you can buy stamped forged parts and create an exclusive product yourself.
- Prefabricated aluminum.
Canopy for the house made of polycarbonate, in the photo there is a hanging forged canopy of a cantilever type
For polycarbonate canopies up to 5 m, use a profile with a wall thickness of 2 mm, a cross-section of 40*20 mm, for buildings over 5.5 m, you will need a rental of 3*40*40 or 2*30*60 mm.
An example of how to make a polycarbonate canopy with your own hands, drawings of an arched structure
An iron canopy will last for decades, although its main enemy is corrosion. It is necessary to clean the parts with a stiff brush from rust, scale, oil stains, go over the entire surface with an abrasive, then rinse with a solvent. Next, cover with primer and paint, preferably with hammer paint; it copes well with chemical, biological and mechanical loads.
Sketch of a suspended polycarbonate canopy over the entrance
Good to know: Hardware heated by fire sun rays, quickly cool down in cold weather, so for comfort in gazebos, porches, and terraces, it is better to provide wooden railings on the parapet.Brick, stone and concrete
Brick, concrete, stone polycarbonate canopies in the yard look impressive, but light and not bulky, thanks to the translucency of polycarbonate. They do not require maintenance during operation, are fire resistant, and tolerate harmful atmospheric influences and physical and mechanical influences well, although they require significant time and financial costs. While canopies made from other materials can be disassembled and moved, such structures are stationary and cannot be dismantled.
Roof
Canopies made of polycarbonate, photos of interesting ideas are presented in the gallery, there are also quite a lot of pictures and projects on the Internet, there are single- and double-slope, arched, cascade, less common are conical, domed, and wavy.
Typical options for polycarbonate canopies
Making the base is not difficult; it is enough to take into account the wind and snow loads in the region, but the rafter system requires serious calculations.
Farm classification:
- According to the characteristic outlines of the contour - polygonal, triangular, broken parallel belts.
- By type of lattice - rhombic, triangular, semi-diagonal, diagonal.
- According to the method of support - cantilever, beam, arched, beam-cantilever.
Cascade support-cantilever canopy made of polycarbonate
The simplest option is a lean-to polycarbonate canopy, the optimal roof angle is 22-30 degrees. The rafters are made of wood or it is a truss - a horizontal, curved or triangular frame with supporting braces, angled posts inside the main structure.
Scheme for a lean-to building
To create a project you need:
- Diagram of the canopy with the type of roof; the type of lower and upper belts depends on this.
- Drawings of polycarbonate canopies must include the dimensions of the structure, since the load changes in direct proportion to the dimensions. It is important to determine the upper as well as the lower point of the slope; the lower the slope, the more snow will accumulate on the roof.
- Take into account the size of the panels; the distance between the rafters depends on this, so that the edge does not fall into the void.
- Wind and snow loads in the region can be found using special tables.
Gable polycarbonate canopy - project with forged elements
Trusses are calculated in accordance with the SNiP regulations in section 2.01.07-85, this is difficult for independent calculations, an engineering education and also special software are required. To avoid mistakes, it is recommended to use an online calculator or take a ready-made project. Loads and impacts are specified in SNiP standards in part 2.01.07-85, rules for the manufacture of metal structures - P-23-81 SNiP.
Arched canopies made of polycarbonate, in the photo there are sketches for small buildings
Good to know: The greater the distance from the bottom to the top point of the roof, the more bearing capacity higher.To avoid getting confused in complex calculations, use the following recommendations:
- With a slope of 22-30 o in a building 6-12 m wide, the height and length of the triangular truss should have a proportion of 1:5;
- If the slope is 15-22 o, the dimensions are in the proportion 1:5, but the braces must be low-sloping, an even number of belts must be made, optimally 8.
- A smaller slope is appropriate for large industrial buildings; engineering calculations are required here; the length and height of the run should be in the proportion of 1:7, 1:9.
Simple diagrams on how to make rafters for a polycarbonate canopy
Calculation of a polycarbonate canopy from a profile pipe
Let's take a canopy as a basis, size 6000*4000 mm, this is an ergonomic solution: a comfortable gazebo or covered parking for a car.
Standard dimensions of polycarbonate in width and length:
- cast 2.050*2, 3, 6.12 m;
- cell phone 2,100*3,6,12 m.
For private buildings, a sheet thickness of 6-12 mm is suitable.
Polycarbonate performance table
Trusses must be placed under each edge and in the middle of the sheets, so the distance between them will be 1 m.
For the racks we will take a pipe ∅80-100 mm, the pitch is 2.0 m along the long side of the canopy. For the roof:
- main elements - profile pipe 30*30 mm, length of the lower ones - 3.1 m, remember the Pythagorean theorem: the square of the hypotenuse is equal to the sum of the squares of the legs, calculate the length of the upper ones, in our case - 3.9 m;
- inclined spacers - profile pipe 20*20 mm, location - at an angle of 25 degrees.
We will install perpendicular jumpers every 0.5 m from each other.
Standard diagram of a small farm
Step-by-step instructions on how to build a polycarbonate canopy for your house yourself
To weld metal canopies for a polycarbonate dacha, a number of conditions must be met:
- Parts, as well as load-bearing elements, should not be cracked.
- The roughness of the end of the supporting rib is determined by GOST 2789-73 - Ra £ 12.5 microns.
- It is unacceptable to use steel with an internal layer and coarse slag inclusions for the lower chord of the truss.
- According to GOST 14771-76, connections are best performed by mechanical welding, in a carbon dioxide environment or its mixture with argon.
- According to GOST 2246-70 and 26271-84, it is recommended to use PP-AN-8 welding wire.
- To fasten rafters to sub-rafter elements and vertical columns, class 5.8 bolts are used according to GOST clause 7798-70.
Drawing of an asymmetric arched canopy
Practical construction
We mark the place for the pillars, dig holes 700 mm deep, make a cushion of 100 mm sandstone, 100 mm crushed stone, and tamp it. We pour 100-200 mm of concrete into the bottom, install a pillar in it, insert it with force, in a circular motion, so that it goes deep. We fill the hole with concrete, check the plumb line, correct it if necessary, and also strengthen it with supporting slopes.
Important: Professionals also recommend placing supports along the house, but if this is not possible, then a 60, 80 * 80 mm beam should be placed on the load-bearing wall with anchors, the trusses should be supported on it, connected by welding, this will distribute the load over the entire surface.A way to secure vertical supports
When the solution has completely risen, we tie the pillars together at their heads, check the geometry, the diagonals must be equal.
It is better to cook farms on the ground, according to the chosen scheme; the most common ones are shown in the photo above. The finished parts are lifted and distributed evenly along the harness, in our case, every meter. The fastening points of the longitudinal strips and rafters are made using steel gussets, as well as welding or bolting.
The next stage is the sheathing (perpendicular purlins), from a 20*40 mm pipe, with a pitch of 400-600 mm, and sheets will be attached to it. The finished metal structure is cleaned and then painted.
The purlins will strengthen the frame, this will allow the polycarbonate to be fixed more securely
Watch video tips on how to properly attach a polycarbonate canopy to your house, this will help you avoid major mistakes when building with your own hands.
How to work with polycarbonate correctly
It is better to cut polycarbonate with a circular saw equipped with a carbide blade with undetected fine teeth. Holes should be made using a drill with a metal drill, between the stiffening ribs. At the upper ends of the honeycomb panels, strips and self-adhesive tape should be installed for sealing; the lower ends should not be covered.
There are 2 ways in total:
- Thermal washers - the holes are made 2 mm larger than the mounting leg; the part should fit tightly until it clicks. The length of the washer is equal to the thickness of the polycarbonate; it is necessarily equipped with an elastic band that seals the connection, which prevents precipitation and dust from getting inside. This type of fastening is called a point fastening; the washer tightly holds the polycarbonate and prevents it from deforming when heated.
How to secure polycarbonate to a canopy using a thermal washer
- A special profile is a strip with grooves on both sides into which polycarbonate is inserted. The method is preferable if the sheets have to be joined. The edges are screwed with thermal washers. Profiles are provided for different connections: corner, connecting, one-piece, wall, detachable and special for connecting if you need to change the roof configuration.
Photo instructions on how to attach polycarbonate to a metal canopy frame using a profile
There is also a wet method, the panels are attached with putty, but if you are making a canopy with your own hands, then it is better to limit yourself to the previous 2 tips.
Types of fastening polycarbonate to the sheathing
Polycarbonate canopies are outdoor structures, universal for economic purposes. The material is light, flexible, translucent in a wide range of colors, convenient formats, available in different thicknesses, which allows you to design canopies of simple and complex curved shapes. The buildings look light, elegant, do not overload the landscape, and fit into any stylistic solution of the architectural ensemble on the site.
In the article we will give step-by-step instructions on how to make a polycarbonate canopy with your own hands, how to choose the right shape, calculate and design the structure.
What you need to know about polycarbonate canopies - general criteria
The production of polycarbonate canopies has become popular due to the ease of installation, practicality of the material, and aesthetics of buildings. There are:
- independent, free-standing - canopies over the pool, greenhouses, car parking, gazebos, outbuildings for various purposes;
- attached to the building: bathhouse, garage - verandas, terraces, canopies over the porch and gate;
- mobile - easily move around the site, usually over barbecues and small gazebos.
Sheds attached to a polycarbonate house, photos of large curved extensions
These are simple rectangular or complex, curvilinear structures, sometimes two-story, for example, above a garage or summer kitchen. Open and closed type; for this, the side walls are glazed, covered with panels, beautiful lattice, clapboard, blockhouse, or covered with thick curtains.
Indoor polycarbonate canopy
Advice: Soft transparent windows and sliding aluminum systems are the most universal option: they do not block the view, open easily, and retain heat well when closed.Polycarbonate support canopy attached to the house, photo of a curved roof
Canopies consist of supporting vertical posts and a roof. The frame is made of wood, metal, less often of concrete, stone, brick.
Typical drawing of a freestanding polycarbonate canopy
Wooden sheds with polycarbonate roofing
Making canopies and canopies from polycarbonate on a wooden base is the most cost-effective and easiest way to independently create a small architectural form on your site. The work does not require professional equipment; household hand tools are sufficient. To build a wooden polycarbonate canopy with your own hands, you use glued and profiled beams 100*100 or 150*150 mm, rounded logs ∅150-200 mm, tree trunks, strapping and mauerlat made from the same material. For the rafter system of outbuildings, according to SNiP, a 40*100 mm edged board is required.
Sketch of a wooden polycarbonate canopy
The main disadvantages are flammability, poor moisture resistance resulting in rotting, fungal infections, loss of strength and aesthetics. Rodents and small bugs can cause significant damage to load-bearing elements. Wooden canopies and polycarbonate canopies must be treated with fire-resistant compounds, an antiseptic, and a durable finishing protective layer of oil or varnish.
A polycarbonate canopy attached to the house, in the photo there is a structure with a sloping roof
Metal canopies
Before making a polycarbonate canopy on a metal frame, you should choose the type of construction:
- Welded from profiled or round pipes are the most popular polycarbonate canopies. For vertical posts, pipes with a diameter of 50-150 mm are used, depending on the size of the building, for piping - a profile with an edge of 40-80 mm, for a farm - 25-50 mm.
- Forged ones are beautiful, elegant, but quite expensive from a financial point of view. On the construction market you can buy stamped forged parts and create an exclusive product yourself.
- Prefabricated aluminum.
Canopy for the house made of polycarbonate, in the photo there is a hanging forged canopy of a cantilever type
For polycarbonate canopies up to 5 m, use a profile with a wall thickness of 2 mm, a cross-section of 40*20 mm, for buildings over 5.5 m, you will need a rental of 3*40*40 or 2*30*60 mm.
An example of how to make a polycarbonate canopy with your own hands, drawings of an arched structure
An iron canopy will last for decades, although its main enemy is corrosion. It is necessary to clean the parts with a stiff brush from rust, scale, oil stains, go over the entire surface with an abrasive, then rinse with a solvent. Next, cover with primer and paint, preferably with hammer paint; it copes well with chemical, biological and mechanical loads.
Sketch of a suspended polycarbonate canopy over the entrance
Good to know: Metal products heat up from fire, sunlight, and cool quickly in cold weather, so for comfort in gazebos, porches, and terraces, it is better to provide wooden railings on the parapet.Brick, stone and concrete
Brick, concrete, stone polycarbonate canopies in the yard look impressive, but light and not bulky, thanks to the translucency of polycarbonate. They do not require maintenance during operation, are fire resistant, and tolerate harmful atmospheric influences and physical and mechanical influences well, although they require significant time and financial costs. While canopies made from other materials can be disassembled and moved, such structures are stationary and cannot be dismantled.
Roof
Canopies made of polycarbonate, photos of interesting ideas are presented in the gallery, there are also quite a lot of pictures and projects on the Internet, there are single- and double-slope, arched, cascade, less common are conical, domed, and wavy.
Typical options for polycarbonate canopies
Making the base is not difficult; it is enough to take into account the wind and snow loads in the region, but the rafter system requires serious calculations.
Farm classification:
- According to the characteristic outlines of the contour - polygonal, triangular, broken parallel belts.
- By type of lattice - rhombic, triangular, semi-diagonal, diagonal.
- According to the method of support - cantilever, beam, arched, beam-cantilever.
Cascade support-cantilever canopy made of polycarbonate
The simplest option is a lean-to polycarbonate canopy, the optimal roof angle is 22-30 degrees. The rafters are made of wood or it is a truss - a horizontal, curved or triangular frame with supporting braces, angled posts inside the main structure.
Scheme for a lean-to building
To create a project you need:
- Diagram of the canopy with the type of roof; the type of lower and upper belts depends on this.
- Drawings of polycarbonate canopies must include the dimensions of the structure, since the load changes in direct proportion to the dimensions. It is important to determine the upper as well as the lower point of the slope; the lower the slope, the more snow will accumulate on the roof.
- Take into account the size of the panels; the distance between the rafters depends on this, so that the edge does not fall into the void.
- Wind and snow loads in the region can be found using special tables.
Gable polycarbonate canopy - project with forged elements
Trusses are calculated in accordance with the SNiP regulations in section 2.01.07-85, this is difficult for independent calculations, an engineering education and also special software are required. To avoid mistakes, it is recommended to use an online calculator or take a ready-made project. Loads and impacts are specified in SNiP standards in part 2.01.07-85, rules for the manufacture of metal structures - P-23-81 SNiP.
Arched canopies made of polycarbonate, in the photo there are sketches for small buildings
Good to know: The greater the distance from the bottom to the top point of the roof, the higher its load-bearing capacity.To avoid getting confused in complex calculations, use the following recommendations:
- With a slope of 22-30 o in a building 6-12 m wide, the height and length of the triangular truss should have a proportion of 1:5;
- If the slope is 15-22 o, the dimensions are in the proportion 1:5, but the braces must be low-sloping, an even number of belts must be made, optimally 8.
- A smaller slope is appropriate for large industrial buildings; engineering calculations are required here; the length and height of the run should be in the proportion of 1:7, 1:9.
Simple diagrams on how to make rafters for a polycarbonate canopy
Calculation of a polycarbonate canopy from a profile pipe
Let's take a canopy as a basis, size 6000*4000 mm, this is an ergonomic solution: a comfortable gazebo or covered parking for a car.
Standard dimensions of polycarbonate in width and length:
- cast 2.050*2, 3, 6.12 m;
- cell phone 2,100*3,6,12 m.
For private buildings, a sheet thickness of 6-12 mm is suitable.
Polycarbonate performance table
Trusses must be placed under each edge and in the middle of the sheets, so the distance between them will be 1 m.
For the racks we will take a pipe ∅80-100 mm, the pitch is 2.0 m along the long side of the canopy. For the roof:
- main elements - profile pipe 30*30 mm, length of the lower ones - 3.1 m, remember the Pythagorean theorem: the square of the hypotenuse is equal to the sum of the squares of the legs, calculate the length of the upper ones, in our case - 3.9 m;
- inclined spacers - profile pipe 20*20 mm, location - at an angle of 25 degrees.
We will install perpendicular jumpers every 0.5 m from each other.
Standard diagram of a small farm
Step-by-step instructions on how to build a polycarbonate canopy for your house yourself
To weld metal canopies for a polycarbonate dacha, a number of conditions must be met:
- Parts, as well as load-bearing elements, should not be cracked.
- The roughness of the end of the supporting rib is determined by GOST 2789-73 - Ra £ 12.5 microns.
- It is unacceptable to use steel with an internal layer and coarse slag inclusions for the lower chord of the truss.
- According to GOST 14771-76, connections are best performed by mechanical welding, in a carbon dioxide environment or its mixture with argon.
- According to GOST 2246-70 and 26271-84, it is recommended to use PP-AN-8 welding wire.
- To fasten rafters to sub-rafter elements and vertical columns, class 5.8 bolts are used according to GOST clause 7798-70.
Drawing of an asymmetric arched canopy
Practical construction
We mark the place for the pillars, dig holes 700 mm deep, make a cushion of 100 mm sandstone, 100 mm crushed stone, and tamp it. We pour 100-200 mm of concrete into the bottom, install a pillar in it, insert it with force, in a circular motion, so that it goes deep. We fill the hole with concrete, check the plumb line, correct it if necessary, and also strengthen it with supporting slopes.
Important: Professionals also recommend placing supports along the house, but if this is not possible, then a 60, 80 * 80 mm beam should be placed on the load-bearing wall with anchors, the trusses should be supported on it, connected by welding, this will distribute the load over the entire surface.A way to secure vertical supports
When the solution has completely risen, we tie the pillars together at their heads, check the geometry, the diagonals must be equal.
It is better to cook farms on the ground, according to the chosen scheme; the most common ones are shown in the photo above. The finished parts are lifted and distributed evenly along the harness, in our case, every meter. The fastening points of the longitudinal strips and rafters are made using steel gussets, as well as welding or bolting.
The next stage is the sheathing (perpendicular purlins), from a 20*40 mm pipe, with a pitch of 400-600 mm, and sheets will be attached to it. The finished metal structure is cleaned and then painted.
The purlins will strengthen the frame, this will allow the polycarbonate to be fixed more securely
Watch video tips on how to properly attach a polycarbonate canopy to your house, this will help you avoid major mistakes when building with your own hands.
How to work with polycarbonate correctly
It is better to cut polycarbonate with a circular saw equipped with a carbide blade with undetected fine teeth. Holes should be made using a drill with a metal drill, between the stiffening ribs. At the upper ends of the honeycomb panels, strips and self-adhesive tape should be installed for sealing; the lower ends should not be covered.
There are 2 ways in total:
- Thermal washers - the holes are made 2 mm larger than the mounting leg; the part should fit tightly until it clicks. The length of the washer is equal to the thickness of the polycarbonate; it is necessarily equipped with an elastic band that seals the connection, which prevents precipitation and dust from getting inside. This type of fastening is called a point fastening; the washer tightly holds the polycarbonate and prevents it from deforming when heated.
How to secure polycarbonate to a canopy using a thermal washer
- A special profile is a strip with grooves on both sides into which polycarbonate is inserted. The method is preferable if the sheets have to be joined. The edges are screwed with thermal washers. Profiles are provided for different connections: corner, connecting, one-piece, wall, detachable and special for connecting if you need to change the roof configuration.
Photo instructions on how to attach polycarbonate to a metal canopy frame using a profile
There is also a wet method, the panels are attached with putty, but if you are making a canopy with your own hands, then it is better to limit yourself to the previous 2 tips.
Types of fastening polycarbonate to the sheathing