How to sharpen a carbide circular saw blade. How to sharpen a circular saw at home. Classification of circular saws

Those who work with wood know how important circular saws are. This tool must always work properly and be in in perfect order. It is known that any piercing and cutting tools have the ability to become dull. Circular saws for wood are no exception. Their sharpening requires special attention. When the first signs appear that the saw begins to function poorly, you should start sharpening, as in the future the tool will begin to dull even more.

Sharpening of the circular saw is carried out different ways: file, on the machine, in a vice and on weight.

Circular saws for wood, which need to be sharpened periodically, are especially important when arranging country house from wood. Circular saws are also called circular saws. This tool is important in that it is capable of high precision cut wood pieces.

So is it possible to do the sharpening yourself? Yes, self-sharpening possible. Timely sharpening circular saws on wood will allow not only to have a sharp working tool at hand, but also to increase its service life. In particular, it is necessary to monitor the condition of circular saws, whose power is relatively low, since a poorly sharpened saw begins to overheat. And overheating can completely disable the working tool.

Signs of deteriorating saw sharpness

If the following symptoms appear, sharpen the saw blade immediately:

  1. A noticeable increase in the temperature of the safety cover on the saw motor.
  2. Cutting requires increased physical effort.
  3. Possible temporary smoke from the engine.
  4. The appearance of a burning smell.
  5. Appearance dark spots on the edges of the saw (soot).
  6. The wooden beam does not move smoothly, but jumps along the machine.
  7. During operation, a suspicious noise is heard.
  8. There is a curvature of the teeth of a circular saw.

Work Requirements

There are also a number of work requirements, compliance with which is necessary for safety and high-quality tool sharpening. When sharpening, the disc must be set in such a way that all the teeth are clearly visible. Only in this case can quality sharpening be guaranteed. The disc must remain in the same position during sharpening. It should fit very tightly against the retaining bars or vise.

In general, the sharpening of the disc should be done on the machine. However, sometimes it is recommended to remove the disc and secure it in a vise. During the bending of the teeth, you need to tightly fix the disk in a vice and use pliers. The angle of inclination of each tooth must be controlled at all times. If you do not observe the angle of inclination, then the efficiency of the subsequent operation of the tool will be close to zero. Before you begin to bend the teeth, you need to make appropriate notes on their original position.

Sharpening rules:

  1. First of all, you need to ensure that the removal of metal occurs evenly along the profile of the saw teeth.
  2. In no case should the disc be pressed against the grinding wheel, as this can lead to heating and heating of the material, which leads to deformations.
  3. The profile and height of the teeth after sharpening must be maintained.
  4. When sharpening, it is also very important to use coolant.
  5. It is impossible for burrs to form during sharpening.
  6. As for the sharpening edges, in theory there is a rule: you need to sharpen either the front side of the teeth, or the front and back. However, very often experienced craftsmen they sharpen it from the back side, as they believe that it is much more convenient.

Teeth setting rules

Before you start sharpening a circular saw, you need to know that this will require setting the teeth. The teeth must alternately bent to the side and sharpened. However, it should be taken into account that the bending of each of the teeth must be carried out at the same distance. To do this, use special tool- wiring. With this tool, each tooth is retracted approximately at the middle of its height.

If the wiring is done correctly, then the width of the cut will be thicker than the saw blade. Correct sharpening assumes that the disc itself does not touch the material of the cut, but only the teeth layer by layer remove the surface of the tree. Therefore, the wider the set of teeth, the more voluminous the cut will be and the less likely it will be that jamming will occur. However, it is extremely difficult to achieve such an effect. Many begin to spread the teeth with a key, but this method is completely unsuitable for expensive quality saws. Therefore, you need to use only the tool that is intended for this.

When sharpening a saw, the type of wood that will be sawn also deserves special attention. For softer woods, a wider set is required so that the cut is smooth and does not have roughness and bumps. The most optimal deviation of the teeth is 5-10 mm to one side. The wiring must be done before sharpening, otherwise the teeth may be deformed and the saw will become unusable.

In total, there are 3 main types of wiring:

  1. Cleaning - with such a layout, every third tooth remains in its original position. This type Suitable for sawing particularly hard woods.
  2. Classical - alternately, the teeth are bent to the left and right.
  3. Wavy - with such a layout, each tooth has its own position, as a result of which a wave of teeth is formed. This method is one of the most effective, but also the most difficult. Experienced craftsmen leave a distance of 0.3-0.7 mm with this method.

Used for sharpening materials and tools

So, for work you may need:

  • 2 bars;
  • whetstone;
  • vise;
  • wiring;
  • file.

Sharpening a circular saw: the classic method

There are several various techniques on sharpening circular saws, however, the following technique is a classic. Start sharpening with rear surface. The front part, which runs into the material during work, remains in the same position.

In order to start sharpening the disc, you can leave the disc directly in the machine or remove it from the machine and fix it in a vise. In the first method, be sure to turn off the power to the machine by removing the cord from the outlet. To fix the disc in one position, 2 bars are used that fix it like wedges. The bars must be pressed tightly against the teeth to avoid their movement. The tooth from which sharpening begins should be marked with a felt-tip pen on the side.

When sharpening the first tooth, you need to remember the number of movements made with a grinding wheel or other tool.

All subsequent teeth must be sharpened with the same intensity and number of movements.

When working in a vice, the principle of operation is the same. Some more experienced craftsmen perform sharpening by weight, but for this you need to have great experience. After complete sharpening, the disc is inserted back into the machine. Next, you need to cut some unnecessary wooden block while simultaneously monitoring the operation of the saw. It is necessary to pay attention to whether there are extraneous noises and uneven movement of the beam. If there is extraneous noise or creaking, you need to take a felt-tip pen and fix it tightly near the saw. Then slowly turn the dial. As a result, it will be seen where the height of the teeth is greater or less than the rest.

Other sharpening methods

  1. Full profile - is the most accurate and high quality, as it is performed on a professional grinding machine. A special circle, which is selected in size, passes the entire interdental cavity at a time along with the surface of the adjacent tooth. With such sharpening, deformation of the teeth is excluded. The only disadvantage of this method is that different saws require different circles.
  2. Tooth edge sharpening - convenience this method is that sharpening can be done both professionally and at home. If the work is performed on the machine, then you need to purchase special circles for different discs. However, it is still better to do the work at home, since usually the amount of work is small and can be done using a regular needle file. For high-quality sharpening, it is enough to make 4-5 movements with a needle file - and the tooth will be sharp.

Protective goggles must be worn during work. When sharpening, you need to remove only such an amount of metal that is necessary for complete removal cracks and deformations. When sharpening, the disk must always remain in the same position relative to the machine.

If there is no sharpening for a long time, more material must be removed. The shape of all the teeth must be exactly the same, as well as the height. All remaining burrs must be completely removed.

Any cutting tool tends to become dull during operation. This also applies to carbide saw blades, which must be sharpened regularly in order for the sawing of wood to occur quickly and efficiently.

The easiest way to sharpen teeth on a circular saw is to use a regular file. But when working with your own hands, over casting cutting tool into working condition, there are many difficulties that only good specialist with sufficient experience. Much easier, faster and more efficient to use for this operation homemade machine for sharpening circular saws or grinding machine for circular knives.

If there is a home-made electric sharpening machine for circular saws, regardless of whether it is a factory tool or home-made, you should know the basic principles for using such equipment. Especially when there is a need to sharpen the teeth of saw blades that have different geometry and sharpening angles.

1 Tooth shapes on saw blades

There are several of them, and they appeared as a result of optimization impact of the cutting edge on the material being cut, which can have different properties.

The main tooth shapes are:

  • straight - used for longitudinal sawing, when high quality is not necessary;
  • oblique (beveled tooth) - has a variable right and left angle of inclination of the posterior (sometimes also anterior) plane. It is used for sawing both in the longitudinal and transverse directions. The most common shape for circular saws. This configuration is convenient to use when cutting boards with double-sided lamination, as it does not give chips along the edges of the cut;
  • trapezoidal - characterized long term keeping the cutting edge sharp. Usually on saw blades, teeth of this shape alternate with straight teeth, somewhat rising above them. Trapezoidal teeth, in this case, make rough sawing, and straight teeth - fine;
  • conical - this form of teeth is used in auxiliary operations. For example, a layer of laminate is cut to prevent the appearance of splinters during the main sawing.

The front edge of all teeth is flat, but in some types of circular saws it is concave.

This allows you to perform high-quality finishing cross-cutting.

1.1 Sharpening angles

Sharpening of the teeth of a circular saw is carried out taking into account the four main angles that are formed at the intersection of the planes:

  • front corner;
  • back corner;
  • bevel angles of the front and rear planes.

as a helper, the angle of sharpening is also taken into account, which is given by the front and back angles.

Sharpening angles depend on the purpose of the saw:

  • for ripping the value of the front angle is suitable from 15 to 20 degrees;
  • with cross sawing - from 5 to 10 degrees;
  • at universal application, on average - 15 degrees.

It is important to consider the sharpening angles not only in the direction of the cut, but also in terms of the hardness of the wood - the harder it is, the smaller the front and rear angles should be.

2 Equipment for sharpening saw blades

These are grinding machines for circular saws, which constructively made in the following variations:

  • when sharpening, only the saw moves (the engine with the grinding wheel is stationary);
  • both a sharpened saw and an engine with a circle can move;
  • only the engine with the grinding wheel attached to it moves ( saw blade stays still).

As standard example A grinding machine can be a device that consists of two components - an engine with a grinding wheel mounted on its shaft, and a caliper on which a sharpened circular saw is attached.

To ensure angular sharpening in this device, a system must be provided that allows you to change the angle of inclination of the blade (for teeth with a beveled front plane).

2.1 Machine JMY8-70

The JMY8-70 electric grinding machine, which is made in China, has enough a large number of positive feedback. Some craftsmen take his device as a basis when they assemble a home-made machine for their own needs with their own hands.

The JMY8-70 machine is designed for sharpening circular saw blades that made of hard high-speed alloys. On the machine, it is possible to process the front and rear plane of the teeth, as well as to perform angular sharpening.

Main advantages:

  • has a diamond grinding wheel, the diameter of which is 125 mm;
  • equipped with an inclined saw holder, which allows for angular sharpening;
  • the body is made of cast steel used in the aviation industry;
  • installed on rubber gaskets, which significantly reduce the impact of vibration on the material being processed;
  • It has a simple adjustment that even a non-specialist can handle.

The manufacturer upon shipment completes the machine detailed instructions, which describes in detail all the possible functions of the device and how to perform them.

Specifications:

  • the grinding wheel has dimensions - 125 × 10x8 mm;
  • the grinding wheel can be rotated up to 20 degrees;
  • diameter of the sharpened saw — from 70 to 800 mm;
  • rotational speed grinding wheel- 2850 rpm;
  • weight - 35 kg.

2.2 Homemade grinder

A lot of people, when working with their own hands, use carbide circular saws not regularly, but from time to time. So buy factory equipment makes no economic sense. Homemade grinding machine - perfect solution, which will allow you not to contact third-party organizations.

The main argument is that when sharpening a circular saw on a regular grinding wheel with your own hands, it is very difficult to maintain the required sharpening angles. Therefore, a device is needed allows you to fix the saw blade in a specific position in relation to the grinding wheel.

A home-made machine, on which you can sharpen circular saws with your own hands, may consist of the following components and parts:

  • a fixed electric motor with the possibility of mounting a grinding disk on its shaft;
  • table-stand, the surface of which is located at the same level in height with the axis of rotation of the grinding wheel;
  • tilting the stand with hinges on one side and rotating (height-changing) screws on the other. This will allow you to perform angular sharpening along the front and rear planes;
  • clamps to secure the saw blade. To do this, a groove is made on the surface of the stand for the mandrel on which the saw is installed. The movement of the mandrel, along with the disk, along the groove will allow you to maintain the required angle of sharpening the teeth;
  • a device for moving an electric motor or a stand for angular sharpening of circular saws with different diameters;
  • the presence of stops for secure fixation tool for work.

2.3 Sharpening circular saws

The sequence of operations when sharpening the front plane of the tooth of a carbide saw blade:

  • the saw is placed on the mandrel and fixed with a conical sleeve with a nut;
  • it is set clearly horizontally using a pendulum goniometer, while the bevel angle of the front plane is equal to zero;
  • moving the mandrel horizontally with the disk installed, the specified front angle of sharpening is set. In other words, the disk moves in such a way that the front plane of her tooth fits snugly against the surface of the grinding wheel;
  • using a marker, a mark is made - from which tooth sharpening began;
  • when enabled electric motor several movements of the saw forward and backward are made with pressing against working surface grinding wheel of the surface to be sharpened;
  • the thickness of the metal removal is regulated by the clamping force and the number of translational movements;
  • after the first tooth is sharpened, the saw is removed from contact with the grinding wheel and rotates around its axis by one tooth, which will be the next when sharpening;
  • the operation is repeated according to the number of teeth on the saw blade.

Any construction cannot do without a circular saw. When performing various operations, it is necessary to make cuts and cuts. With the help of a circular, it becomes possible to quickly and high quality cut any tree. At constant use such a device, the cutting tool becomes dull, the performance of the operation decreases. Sharpening of circular saws becomes the most important operation.

Classification of circular saws

To obtain a clean cut, it is necessary that the sharpening of the circular saw blades is done correctly. Tools are divided into several groups:

  • All-metal.
  • The working area of ​​the disk has a hard coating.
  • Carbide plates are soldered onto the saw teeth.

The teeth of the saw after sharpening must be divorced. If you work with a dull tool, the drive begins to experience additional load, the quality of the cut suffers.

If the disk works with solid wood, it must have special technological grooves. Their absence leads to overheating of the blade, the metal will begin to expand, and deformation of the cutting tool will occur. A dangerous vibration will appear, the quality of the cut will suffer.

Varieties of cutting surfaces

To improve work efficiency, engineers have developed several types of teeth that differ in their shape and sharpening angle:

On some canvases, the front plane of the tooth has a concave shape. This tool is used to make cross cuts.

Correct sharpening angle

Circular saws have teeth with two angles:

  • back.
  • In front of him.

The value of the angle depends on the type of material being processed, the purpose of the operating equipment and the direction of sawing. For example, to obtain a longitudinal cut, the front angles are made within 15-25 degrees. For a cross cut, the rake angle will be in the range of 5-10 degrees. An angle of 15 degrees is suitable for processing any material in the desired direction. The angle value depends on the hardness of the workpiece being processed. The harder the material, the sharper the teeth need to be sharpened.

Methods for processing disk blades

To form a cutting edge, any grinder is suitable where the design of the equipment does not It has of great importance . Of course, the sharpening angles of disc plates with carbide tips are obtained more accurately specialized equipment. However, its cost is very high, so they use the usual grinder, which has the ability to change the slope of the corundum disk.

To sharpen yourself circular disc, it is necessary to strictly comply with several basic conditions:

  • Usually the top edge is deformed. Sometimes the rounding of the edges reaches 0.3 mm. Therefore, sharpening starts from the top.
  • Processing is carried out taking into account the leading edge and its rear part.
  • The operation is repeated at least 25 times. The thickness of the removed metal should not exceed 0.05-0.15 mm.
  • The quality of processing must be exactly the same on the entire surface to be treated.
  • After the end of sharpening, it can be fine-tuned manually sandpaper with fine grain.

Sharpening carbide-tipped tools

Sharpening circular saws with victorious tips often causes problems. Processing with standard abrasives takes a very long time, and if the material is overheated, it can be “released”. Of course, processing with a diamond tool will be much faster, but its cost is very high. It will be much more economical to purchase a victorious disk.

Each master approaches the solution of this problem purely individually. To obtain right angles sharpening circular saws with carbide tips, you will definitely need a machine.

Home processing of toothed blade

To process a circular saw, it is not necessary to have a special machine for sharpening circular saws with your own hands. To fix the fabric in a certain position, you can use a flat stand, which has several nuances:

  • The surface must be flush with the center of the grinding wheel.
  • The plane of sharpening should be at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the gear circle.
  • To create a different slope, the fixture must have a swivel joint.

For selection desired angle make a mark with a colored marker. The device must be installed in a powerful grip. Not even the slightest movement of the special stand is allowed.

The complexity of sharpening saw blades with carbide teeth is due to the use of sintered tungsten-cobalt alloys for the manufacture of cutting inserts, which are subsequently attached to the blade. brazing. But the main difficulty is caused by their geometry and the need to provide a certain angle when sharpening.

Tooth shape and sharpening angles

According to GOST 9769, a carbide tooth in its design has 4 planes - back, front and 2 auxiliary. According to the geometry of the cutting inserts are straight, beveled, trapezoidal and conical.

The front angle of sharpening determines not only the characteristics of the saw blade, but also its purpose:

  • 15-25° - for longitudinal sawing;
  • 5-10° - for transverse;
  • within 15° - universal application.

Also, the size of the angles is also determined by the hardness of the material being cut - the higher it is, the smaller the sharpening should be.

Basic sharpening rules

Mainly subject to wear cutting edge- it is rounded up to 0.3 mm. Carbide teeth should not be allowed to wear beyond this value. This leads to a decrease in productivity and an increase in the time for subsequent sharpening. Dullness is determined by the teeth and the cut (the quality of the cut worsens).

  • At correct execution work, the maximum operational resource of the saw blade with soldering is ensured - up to 30 sharpenings. Therefore, sharpening should be done along the front and back plane of the tooth.
  • First of all, the front plane is sharpened.
  • Soldering during sharpening should be in contact with the surface of the abrasive wheel with the entire plane.
  • It is recommended to sharpen the teeth in short strokes (within 3-5 seconds), which will prevent them from overheating. Since with increasing temperature, the microhardness of the abrasive decreases, and hence the effectiveness of sharpening.
  • The thickness of the removed metal should not exceed 0.15 mm.

Materials and tools

For sharpening discs with carbide teeth, you can use diamond circles and silicon carbide. To obtain a smooth surface without nicks, it is recommended to use abrasive with the highest grit. Otherwise, the notches will crumble during operation, which will lead to a rapid blunting of the soldering.

It is best to sharpen on specialized machines with the ability to adjust the angles of the saw blade. To regulate its position in horizontal plane(in the case of teeth with a bevelled front plane), special devices with pendulum goniometers are used.

But the purchase of special equipment for home use when the need for it arises no more than 1 time in several months, it is not advisable. And holding the saw blade with your hands in exact accordance with the required angle is something from the realm of fantasy.

There is only one way out - to build a stand, the surface of which will be located on the same level with the axis of the abrasive wheel. This will ensure that the position of the back and front plane of the tooth is perpendicular to the grinding material. And if you show your imagination and fix one side of the fixture pivotally, and on the other make supports in the form of bolts with the possibility of screwing in and out, you can also control the angle of inclination relative to the horizontal plane. And the accuracy is verified by a pendulum goniometer.

To ensure the angle required for sharpening the front and rear planes of the teeth with soldering, stops can be equipped on the stand that will fix the saw blade in the desired position.

How to sharpen a saw blade, if not, not so much special equipment, but elementary devices - a vice and a file? The answer to this question lies in a visit to a workshop for which sharpening saw blades is part of their daily work.

Sharpening saw blades in Moscow

A dull circular saw is the cause of poor material processing, and sharpening saw blades in Moscow will eliminate this problem. If the circular saw is not sharpened correctly, then this is especially dangerous for units equipped with a low-power engine. After all, working with high voltage, it will constantly overheat and may fail.

To properly sharpen a circular saw, you need to know the sharpening angles of the saw blade, and this will require a saw blade sharpening machine, which is especially appropriate in cases where carbide materials are to be processed. That is why it is more than preferable to turn to highly qualified specialists who thoroughly know their business.

Professional sharpening of saw blades - service price

Many people are concerned about the question: how much does it cost professional sharpening saw blades - the price of the service. Here, much depends on the type of sharpening (straight or oblique), as well as on the material from which the soldering of the circular saw is made. In any case, the purchase of such products is many times more expensive than their sharpening. That is why sharpening saw blades, the price of which is very affordable, is the best solution.

Where to sharpen a saw blade in Moscow? The answer to this question lies in our phone number, which you just need to dial for anyone who needs this service. Vast experience and special knowledge in the field of sharpening various tools This is what separates professionals from amateurs. Therefore, everyone who appreciates quality can safely contact our company.