Evgeny Sedov
When hands grow from the right place, life is more fun :)
Content
When planning a major renovation, you need to decide which flooring will be the most functional for your apartment. Today, more and more owners prefer to lay laminate in their home. Find out what are the features of working with this type of building materials and how you can lay it in different ways.
Rules for laying laminate
Why is this material increasingly being used in renovation work? This is due to its affordable price, because this option is much cheaper than wooden parquet, and laying it is much easier and faster. Although such a repair process looks easy, in order for the job to go smoothly, you need to know a few basic rules for how to lay a laminate.
They do not lay such a coating in the bathroom due to the constantly changing humidity here, but on the balcony, if proper waterproofing and insulation are made there, this material is quite appropriate. Calculate how many packs of laminate you need: for this, divide the size of the room by two, because one pack of coating is designed for 2 square meters. Take an extra pack in case the sheets are damaged during cutting and assembling. Collect a tool for work: a saw or a jigsaw, a wooden plank for fitting boards, a hammer (preferably rubber), a pencil and a tape measure.
Floor surface preparation
The main requirement for the base on which the laminate will be laid is that it be even. If the floor is concrete, it is better to make a screed to even out the existing errors. Please note that this coating can be put simply on the old linoleum, if it is in good condition. If you have to lay the laminate on a wooden floor, sand the irregularities on it or level them by laying and fixing plywood or chipboard sheets with screws. You need to know that with a given initial surface, the lamellas should be laid obliquely relative to the old boards.
Laminate installation methods
If you are going to install such flooring material yourself, you need to be aware of the differences in the method of fastening different types of this flooring. Understand how to lay a laminate, which, by analogy with parquet, must be fastened with glue, and what are the advantages of locking systems for connecting lamellas.
It is necessary to fasten the coating components with glue if you will use lamellas that are not equipped with a reliable locking system. How to lay laminate in this way? Check that the edges of the boards where the adhesive will be applied are not dusty. It will also be good to degrease them and carefully process them with fine sandpaper. When the adhesive is applied to both adjacent surfaces, they are tightly connected for at least 15 minutes so that they are securely fastened - you can use tie-down straps for this. Excess glue that has come out is immediately removed, preventing them from drying out.
"Click" locking system
With this fastening technology, the rows of laminate must be laid by inserting the spike of one board into the groove of the other. For the final fit, the panels should be lightly knocked against one another using a wooden block and a hammer. This connection is mounted faster and easier than adhesive. The advantage of fastening the floor with locks is that, if necessary, the floor can be disassembled and an accidentally damaged board can be replaced.
Locking system "Lok"
This method of fastening is often provided at the ends of the laminate panels. To connect the flooring in this way of fastening, the boards must be placed in the same plane, carefully place the patch bar and knock the panels one against the other with a hammer until the lock slams shut with a characteristic click. To strengthen the density of such a connection, sometimes it is additionally strengthened with glue.
Laminate laying patterns
To be as satisfied as possible with the result of the repair, you need to decide in advance in which direction and in what pattern the panels will need to be laid. To this end, you can draw a preliminary diagram of how the mounted coating will look like, or spread the laminate around the room without fixing the lamellas. Consider which side the lighting will fall on - this is very important if you have chosen a bevelled material. Consider in more detail how the correct laying of the laminate is done in different ways.
Classic laminate flooring
This flooring installation option is the most economical - no more than 5% of waste remains with it. According to the classical scheme, the first row of laminate is laid, and the part that was cut off when fitting from the last panel is used as the first panel of the second row. If such a laying scheme is chosen, one must not forget to make sure that the pieces of laminate that are laid remain no shorter than 30 cm. At the same time, it should be taken into account that upon completion of work, such a floor may not look good enough, because the seams between the boards will be arranged randomly, randomly.
Brick or chess
This coating laying order is very popular, because it is easy to make such a layout, but it looks nice and neat, resembling parquet. How to lay a laminate in a checkerboard pattern? It must be laid so that the edge of the panel of the next row is placed at the level of the middle of the board of the previous row. What should be paid special attention to in such a laying scheme? Every second row will start with half of the panel, so look at what size pieces will be cut off at the end of the row, whether it looks harmonious and whether there will be an overrun of the laminate.
Diagonal
This assembly scheme will be more time-consuming, will require accurate calculations, and still, the percentage of material consumption will be significantly higher than for other specified methods - at least 15%. The advantage of this installation is the ability to visually expand a small long but narrow room. Laying laminate in this way can be started from the corner of the room, moving across diagonally from the window to the door, or you can stretch the rope through opposite corners and lay the panels from it, starting from the center of the room to the left. Boards in rows are best placed in a checkerboard pattern.
How to lay a laminate with your own hands
This coating is very reminiscent of a designer, which, with due diligence and care, can be laid on its own, thereby significantly reducing the price of repairs. To do this, you just need to know a certain scheme of how to properly lay the laminate. In order for the floor to be warm, it is necessary to lay a polyethylene foam underlay under the butt strips covering. Please note that it is better to place laminate sheets perpendicular to the window - so sunlight will not emphasize the seams between them.
You can start installation from any wall, given that the first row of material must be placed with a groove towards it for an adhesive connection or with a ridge if the boards will be connected without using glue. First, the first row of laminate is laid out along the partition, the sheets of which are interconnected at the end. Do not forget about installing wedges about 1 cm wide from the wall - this gap will close the baseboard, and in the future it will protect your floor from deformation. Measure the length of the last board in the row and cut the desired size from the sheet. Remember that the lengths of the laminate should not be shorter than 30 cm.
For a snug fit, the connected sheets are adjusted by applying a wooden plank to the end and carefully tapping on top of it with a hammer so as not to break the fastening grooves. Then, in the indicated way, it is necessary to fasten the second row of the laminate together and, having asked someone to help, insert the crest of this strip into the groove of the previous one. The connected rows are also carefully adjusted to each other by tapping. The laminate continues to be laid further in the same way to the opposite wall. Remember to leave an expansion joint under the door threshold between adjacent rooms.
Laminate is a coating designed for laying out the surface of the floor. It is made from high-density fiberboard (MDF) material. Laminate has rightly earned the title of the most popular flooring. The laminate is laid out in small tiles, each tile consists of several layers - this ensures wear resistance, moisture resistance and aesthetic appearance of this coating. And if repairs are planned in the house with floor overlapping, it will be useful to read the step-by-step instructions on how to lay the laminate with your own hands in order to do the work yourself.
Necessary materials and tools for work
Laying laminate flooring involves the following materials and tools:
- primer for leveling the floor surface;
- the laminate itself;
- polyethylene and polyethylene film;
- plinth;
- glue;
- markers;
- measuring tape;
- jackhammer;
- building corner (90 degrees);
- hacksaw;
- dies (wedges).
How to properly install laminate?
After preparing the necessary materials and fixtures, it is necessary to select the layout and calculate the material consumption depending on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room in which the laminate will be laid. To ensure the reliability of the coating, it is recommended to lay the laminate tiles apart - one row is laid out, the first tile of the next row should be cut in half - from the side, the layout should resemble the layout of a brick wall.
Laying the laminate in the standard way should be carried out on the basis of: add 10 percent of the sum of the product to the product of length and width - for a room of 4 meters by 5 meters, the material consumption will eventually be equal to: (4x5) + (4x5) / 10 \u003d 22 square meters. These 2 square meters will make up for the overrun of the laminate, which will need to be cut.
Laying laminate flooring step by step
The correct layout of the laminate is carried out in stages:
- Laminate preparation. Before coating, the laminate must lie in the room where the laying will be carried out for 2 days in order for the laminate to adapt to the climate of the room.
- Floor preparation for coating. Primer. The floor must be free of debris and dust before coating. If the old floor is uneven, you need it with the help of a special building compound. If there are any defects in the old floor (cracks, chips, pits), it must be dismantled and only after that the surface should be cleaned and the floor should be further filled with a self-leveling compound. After the composition has completely hardened, it will be possible to proceed with the direct laying of the laminate.
- Laying out a moisture-proof film. Laying should be carried out from the window. A moisture-proof film is necessary when laying a laminate on a concrete base - concrete tends to absorb moisture from the air, which can lead to the fragility of the laminate coating. The film must be spread with an overlap (20-30 cm) and the joints must be fixed with construction tape.
- Substrate lining. After laying the film, you can proceed to laying out the substrate under the laminate. Its use provides sound insulation, elimination of the risk of condensation under the laminate, cushioning of the surface and ensuring a long service life of the laminate floor. How to lay the underlayment under the laminate? It is recommended to lay it out in parts together with laminate tiles - this will prevent possible deformation of the substrate.
- Laminate lining. Next, you can lay out the laminate.
How to lay laminate with your own hands
The laying of the laminate itself includes several stages:
- To ensure gaps between the laminate and all kinds of pipes, walls, doorways and corners, wedges must be installed at the junction of the laminate with these objects.
- The first row of tiles is laid out joint-to-joint along the wall, the last tile must be cut in half, the length of the cut part should be less than 30 centimeters.
- The laying out of the second row must begin with the trimmed tiles of the first row. Laminated panels of all rows must be firmly interlocked. The clutch is accompanied by a characteristic click. To install the last tile of each row, a clamp should be used - it will provide a dense coating without undocking.
- The trimmed parts of the laminate are well suited to fill the resulting "gaps" in the coating.
- To join the laminate and other coatings, special sills are used - they are attached with dowels.
- After laying out the laminate, you should proceed with the installation of the plinth - it is fastened with screws and an electric drill.
How to install laminate flooring on wood floors
If the old floor consists of boards, then the question arises: is it possible and how to lay a laminate on a wooden floor? First you need to assess its condition - worn boards should be replaced, and if the entire surface of the floor is uneven, then laying the laminate is excluded until the floor is leveled or disassembled to the support boards and laid flat. The wooden floor before laying the laminate must be perfectly clean - the presence of small debris and grains of sand is excluded. If you put a laminate on such a floor, then when walking it will make an unpleasant sound. A smooth wooden floor does not require additional laying of a plastic film.
How to install laminate flooring on concrete floor
The floor made of concrete as the basis for laying out the laminate must be flat and clean. A concrete floor requires absolute waterproofing - for a long service life of a laminate coating, such a floor must be insulated with building polyethylene.
Can laminate flooring be installed on linoleum?
Laying laminate over old linoleum is possible, but only if the old coating lies flat, does not have sharp changes in height, holes, etc. Also, linoleum must be dry, as the laminate is very sensitive to moisture.
Laminate is one of the most popular and preferred types of flooring. With a strong desire, you can lay it with your own hands. You just need to figure out how to properly lay the laminate. The existing varieties of material and laying schemes make it possible to do everything so that the finished coating fits best into the interior of the room. If you follow the instructions in everything, you can lay the laminate no worse than an experienced master.
Laying laminate in a diagonal way visually expands the space.
What do you need to know before installing laminate flooring?
It requires compliance with a number of rules, without which the coating is unlikely to serve as it should. Laying laminate can not be carried out in rooms with humidity below 40% and above 70%. The air temperature in the room should be between 15-30°C.
Before work, be sure to check the horizontalness of the floor. This can be done using a building level or a rule. The permissible deviation is 2 mm per 1 m of space. It is important that the surface on which the laminate will be laid is rigid. Do not lay material on creaking wooden floors and carpet. If there are significant irregularities or the wooden base has lost the necessary rigidity, you will have to additionally level the floor.
If you are laying a laminate with locks, you need to remember that its rigid attachment to the base is unacceptable. Glue, screws, nails - you won't need it. Finishing should be "floating". The same requirement also determines the need to leave gaps of 1-1.5 cm around the perimeter of the room.
Laying a laminate can only be carried out on a special substrate. Due to it, the sound and heat-insulating properties of the floor will increase. To provide additional moisture and vapor barrier, a thin polyethylene film should be laid under the substrate.
Laying laminate flooring will require the use of the following materials and tools:
Mistakes when laying laminate flooring and their consequences.
- Substrates.
- moisture insulating material. It will be needed only if the laminate flooring will be laid on a concrete base.
- Jigsaw.
- Scotch.
- Marking pencil.
- Square.
- Hammer.
- Special assembly kit for laminate.
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Substrate Preparation Guide
Laminate is a material with excellent performance characteristics. And so that they do not decrease over time, you need to properly prepare the base before laying. The panels can be laid on concrete floors, wooden structures, floor tiles and linoleum.
As for concrete, a new screed can only be covered after it has completely dried, i.e. in about a month. If the laminate will be laid on a ready-made screed, you first need to make sure that it is intact. Minor cracks and unevenness are eliminated with a self-levelling compound. To repair significant damage, you will have to make a new screed.
The concrete base must be covered with plastic wrap. Use tape to secure the seams. The film is overlapped, with an overlap on the walls. Dry screed does not require this layer.
If laying the laminate is done on the floor from the boards, it is important to make sure that they are even and rigid when fastening to the logs. Boards must be fastened with self-tapping screws. If the logs are poorly fixed, then you will have to lay a new floor. If the boards themselves are uneven, you will have to work with a scraper or planer. It is important that the surface does not protrude anywhere. Remove all protruding elements in advance and replace damaged boards.
If desired, you can level the wooden floor with plywood. Sheets with a thickness of at least 6 mm are suitable. It is also possible to use other sheet materials, for example, fiberboard and chipboard. However, plywood is the best option in terms of quality and cost. Before work, be sure to calculate the total thickness of plywood, underlayment and laminate panels, so that as a result it does not happen that the doors to your room cannot be opened. It is for this reason that when repairing, the installation of interior doors is carried out at the very end.
Laying laminate can be done on tiles or linoleum. The technology allows you to lay the material on any hard and even surfaces. So if before that the tiles and linoleum were laid according to the rules, you can not waste time dismantling them. It is not necessary to use vapor barrier in such situations, the substrate will be enough.
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Features of different ways of laying laminate
Laying a laminate can be carried out using 3 main methods of fastening panels, namely:
- Glue method.
- With the help of the Lock.
- With Click lock.
Adhesive bonding resembles the laying of simple parquet. The edges of the 2 panels are covered with glue, after which they are pulled together quite tightly to each other. This option is suitable for rooms with a large load, when you want to create a moisture-proof and durable connection. The method is used quite rarely, because. it has significant drawbacks: the greatest labor intensity, fragility and the exclusion of the possibility of disassembling the coating.
The most popular is the Click joint. The panels are fastened using the tenon-groove method at an angle of 30°. The laminate panel is lowered and fixed with a lock. This is the most convenient, fast and modern type of fastening. If the quality is good, the joints are almost invisible.
As for Locks, they require some experience. In addition, such a connection is more demanding on the evenness of the base. Locks are easily damaged if mishandled. Yes, and disassembling them is more difficult than Click, and assembly requires additional docking of the panels with a hammer.
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What types of laminate flooring are available?
In most cases, laminate flooring is laid parallel to the sunlight, but if desired, the panels can be laid perpendicularly or diagonally. The existing schemes are shown in fig. one.
In addition, laying schemes are further divided into the following:
Figure 1. Ways of laying out the laminate.
- Classic scheme. It is most often used when laying such flooring, because. it is the most economical. The panels are laid from the window opening, parallel to the sunlight. If the length of the scraps is more than 30 cm, they can be used at the beginning of a new row. With the correct implementation of all stages of installation, the waste is a maximum of 5-7%.
- The brick scheme got its name due to some similarities with brickwork. The flooring of the new row is carried out with a half-shift of the laminate panel. This laying method provides the highest strength. The main disadvantage is that the consumption of finishing material increases by 10-15%. Laying according to the "brick pattern" looks especially beautiful if there is a chamfer on the ends of the panels.
- The diagonal scheme is one of the varieties of classic installation, but in this case, the panels are mounted at an angle of 45 °. The method allows you to get a very beautiful coating. The main disadvantage is the large amount of waste (about 15%), which becomes even greater if the room is long and narrow.
Regardless of which scheme the panels will be laid in, each new row must be laid with an offset of the end locks. This technique allows you to increase the strength of the connection. The minimum allowable offset is 20 cm in relation to the previous row.
In this two-part review, we'll show you how you can install laminate flooring alone. The instructions for the laminate indicate the installation method, but it is almost always designed for two people, since the row in this case has a length of 4–5 m and will fall apart when laid by one person. We will show you an easy way, using which you can lay the laminate alone. In the second part of the review, we will discuss some of the details of this process.
Part 1
Here is our room of about 17 m² in which we will lay the laminate. The laminate is ordinary, inexpensive, class 33, has standard dimensions, its thickness is 8 mm. For installation you will need the following tools:
This set consists of a corner, a pencil, a tape measure, a clerical knife and a tool for sawing laminate - a jigsaw or saw. If there is neither one nor the other, you can use a hacksaw. The first thing to do in this case is to check the floor for large dips and bumps. The floor must be more or less even, otherwise the laminate in such places may burn through and the lock will disperse. After we have done this, we spread the substrate.
We do not line the entire substrate, we first roll out one row, lay the laminate to the edge, then roll out the next row.
Laying is done from left to right, that is, we lay out several boards, starting from the left side. We lay the first row and see what the rest is.
It is undesirable that the remainder is less than 30 cm. If the last piece is too small, then we cut the first one and make sure that such short pieces are not obtained anywhere. The laminate board has two different sides. We lay the laminate with a wide lock on ourselves:
Here is the other side of the board:
We begin to collect the first row. To our left is the first board, we raise the second, connect it, make sure that the joint matches in width, then we fasten it:
We do the same with the next board. This results in a line like this:
We retreat 8–10 mm:
Cut off this part, from which we will make several linings:
We do markup. To do this, we put the laminate sheet with a wide lock towards us, then turn it over, rest against the wall and mark about 8 mm less:
We take a square and make a mark:
We always mark and saw from the wrong side, because in this case, when sawing with a jigsaw or a circular saw, chips are obtained on the wrong side, and not on the front side. When the board falls into place, the cut will be on the far right side of us, on the left we will connect the joint.
We sawed this part, made linings from scraps. We put them on the joints:
Here we put the lining at the beginning and at the end. Then we join the extreme board.
Our laminate is even, it has no chamfer. If the laminate has chamfers - and they may even differ in color - then you need to lay it in accordance with the pattern, that is, shift the boards by half or a third, as you like. In our case, the joints are not visible, so we can neglect this.
We begin to lay out the second row. The length of the wall turned out to be such that an offset of half the board was obtained. This is rare, more often cuts 40-50 cm long are obtained, and when such a cut remains, we start the next row with it. Here we started with a whole board, but since there is no trimming, we will start the second row with half the board.
Paste our cut:
Take the whole board, paste:
The joints look like this:
Raise the board and fasten the far edge:
Then we fasten the left edge. Everything - the laminate is connected. Here is a transverse joint, here is a longitudinal one - nothing fell out anywhere:
This is how it looks like:
Then the same on the other side.
There is such garbage on the laminate, it must be removed:
Finishing up the second row. Insert the last piece in the same way:
We put the lining, raise the board a little:
We have two rows of laminate flooring installed. We begin to lay the next row. We put the lining and put the following board:
Up close, the process looks like this:
Raise the board, insert, snap.
One movement - and that's it, the laminate is in place. Now we need to shake it, here and at the beginning:
We continue installation.
Sometimes the laminate is slightly curved, and you can’t fasten it with your hands. After we inserted this edge, the laminate protrudes a little.
In this case, we take a piece of laminate, insert it with a lock into this lock:
The cutting width must be made 20 centimeters so as not to break the edge. We insert the cut and feed it with a hammer, after which it falls into place. First, we do the edge in this way, then the middle, and in this way the board must be pierced several times along the entire length.
All this can be done alone, and in this way you can collect rows of any length, even up to 6-8 meters. You don't have to put them all in.
Part 2
In the first part of this review, we started talking about how you can lay a laminate alone and managed to lay three rows of laminate. In the second part we will continue our story. Here we will touch on some of the nuances of this process: we will talk about how to lay the laminate in the corners of the doorway and under the radiator, what needs to be done in cases where the lock is tight, and we will also demonstrate the advantages of this technology to all those who doubt it.
Laying rows of laminate
So, we continue to lay the laminate. Let's move on to the next row. In this case, the edge of the board is inserted, and there is a small gap in the middle:
To avoid this gap here, a piece of laminate must be shaken by hand:
You don't need to put in a lot of effort. Everything, the laminate is buttoned up.
Laying down the next piece.
If the board turned out to be raised, it can be drowned by shaking it with your hands:
The laminate is recessed, there are no gaps, the locks are fastened. If you find it difficult to drive in pieces of laminate with your hand, you can do this: guide a piece of laminate and knock it out with a rubber mallet.
In our case, this is not required - the laminate comes in easily.
We usually make the substrate end-to-end and glue it with adhesive tape. In this case, you don’t need to do this - the substrate is branded, here you need to get this film and cover the next row with it:
What to do with tight locks
What should be done if the lock is tight? Usually tight locks are on a thicker laminate with a thickness of 10–12 mm.
It is difficult to insert such a board by hand. To do this, we use a piece of laminate, the lock of which is joined to this edge of the board:
The length of the piece must be at least 20 cm so as not to break the edge. This is how we insert it and nail it in:
Laminate flooring in the corner of a doorway
I would like to draw attention to the following point. Here is the doorway:
The instructions for laying the laminate indicate: make a gap 10 mm wide from the wall:
So, in the corner we will also have a gap 10 mm wide:
But we never do this and we don’t advise you, because the door trim usually does not have a thickness of 10 mm, it can be 8 mm, it can be 6 mm, and if it is semicircular, then its edge generally has a thickness of 2 mm. If you make a gap of 10 mm, and you have a cashout, you get a gap here:
We always round this corner on the laminate a little, because if you cut it with a corner, you get a hole. We make a gap of 3, maximum 4 mm from the area where the cashing will be located:
The reliability of this technology
Also, nothing has been cut or sawn here, this is a laminate from the package:
Paste and snap this part:
Then we disassemble and check the locks:
Nothing broke anywhere.
What to do if the battery interferes
Now let's talk about what to do in cases where the battery interferes. Here the laminate may not fasten:
In this case, you need to push the bar in a lateral movement, as shown in the following figure:
This must be done very carefully so as not to break the lock. So the bar slides in and snaps into place.
How to insert the last row
For this operation, you can use a nail puller. They press the laminate in cases where the lock is tight and the planks are difficult to join.
Lay the last bar like this:
In order not to spoil the wallpaper, you can put something under the nail puller. We move the bar into place.
This is what the finished room looks like:
Now, using this technology, you can lay the laminate alone. Good luck!
All rights to the video belong to: Roman Zaitsev
Laminate manufacturers in their advertising campaigns emphasize that the installation of this most popular flooring has become so simple that anyone can handle it. Who has no experience with laminate at all. You need to read the instructions, watch the company's commercial, and as a result of your labors, a room with a new floor will quickly transform, and an admiring family will extol your building achievements. Despite the fact that before installing the flooring, your success in this field was not much different from the ability of one of the characters of the English writer Jerome K. Jerome Uncle Podger to hang pictures.
Indeed, the improvement of panel locking systems has greatly simplified the installation process. If laying laminate with a Lock requires a certain amount of experience and skill, the next generation of Click locks does not. And the market already sells laminate with 5g and Megalock locks, and even with aluminum locks. Soon everything will be like in Russian fairy tales, when you only need to bring the packages into the room where the installation will take place, and hold the floor covering without opening the box for a couple of days. To adapt to the temperature and humidity in the room. And then you open the packages, and the panels themselves fit "at the behest of the pike." However, as you know, the devil is in the details.
Laying laminate
The job of installing flooring has become much easier. What can not be said about the preparation of the base before laying. The base must be level, stable and dry. The difference in height is acceptable within 2 mm by 2 m. In some cases, a waterproofing device is required before laying the substrate and the laminate itself.
Substrate laying
Substrates differ in the material from which they are made, characteristics and cost:
Manufacturers claim that the substrate is able to level the base under the laminate. This is an exaggeration. The substrate must provide heat and sound insulation. The underlayment can compensate for minimal irregularities in a leveled old wooden floor or plywood subfloor, but no more.
Important! The substrate is laid end-to-end, the joints are fixed with adhesive tape. So it will not move when laying the laminate.
Choice of installation method
We determine the method of laying the coating: diagonally, perpendicularly or parallel to the light (along or across the room). Diagonal mounting is more often used in narrow spaces - this is one way to visually expand them.
It is usually customary to lay the laminate perpendicular to the light source (long side along the light stream) - in the room this is a window. In daylight, the joints between the panels are less visible.
However, when laying the coating on a wooden floor, it is imperative to focus on the direction of the floorboards. On such a floor, the laminate is laid perpendicular to the floor boards to reduce possible deflection. If the old wooden floor is sheathed with plywood on top, the flooring should be laid in the traditional way - perpendicular to the window.
In small narrow rooms without natural light (corridors, hallways), laminate is laid across in order to visually expand the room.
Laminate flooring with different types of locks
For installation work you will need:
First, plastic wedges are installed to maintain a gap of 10 mm between the laminate and the wall. From the corner of the room in the direction from left to right, the first row is laid horizontally. The crest of the panels of the first row is directed into the wall. The panels are joined at the ends. The last panel in the row is cut with a jigsaw or hacksaw and laid in a row. You can start the next row with the remaining piece of the panel (provided that its length is more than 300 mm). It is important that the seams in adjacent rows do not match.
Advice. To give the panel offsets a neater look, a technique such as “a third of the board offset” is used. One third is cut off from the new panel, after which it fits.
The first and second rows are joined. When using panels with a Lock-lock, you will need to knock them out with a mallet (through a die) to fix the comb in the groove of the adjacent panel.
The Click system panels are laid at an angle of 45° until they snap into place. Such a coating can be disassembled if necessary.
The panels of the last row will most likely need to be cut in width to size. Remember that the plinth will cover the cut line, so small irregularities in the place of the cut are not terrible. After the laying of the laminate on the wooden floor is completed, the wedges are removed and the plinth is mounted. See first how much you need to trim the panels of the last row. The floor covering will not look very good if the width of the panels of the first and last rows is very different. In this case, it is better to cut the panels of both the first and last rows.
