Choosing a ceiling finish is a daunting task. Especially for rooms with a high threshold of humidity. The most practical option in this case may be an aluminum rack ceiling. Its features, attractive appearance make such a ceiling perhaps the most popular option.
Practicality and reliability of rack ceilings made of aluminum
These coatings have a number of advantages:
- Ease of installation.
- The ability to dismantle the entire structure or individual sections.
- High quality coatings.
- Moisture resistance, which allows the use of this type of ceiling finish in rooms with high humidity.
- Long life, wear resistance.
- Environmental friendliness.
- Good reflective feature.
Varieties of aluminum rack systems
Structural elements
Aluminum rack ceilings are a structure consisting of:
- Stringers (another name is traverses or combs) are load-bearing elements that are used to fix the lamellas.
- Adjustable suspensions, ensuring the reliability of fastening the combs to the draft ceiling surface.
- aluminum slats.
- Decorative elements - plugs and profiles. The latter are represented by corner strips that mask the space between the ceiling surface and the walls.
The most common are the following three types of coatings for aluminum ceilings:
- Cassette. The surface of the ceiling is decorated with aluminum sheets in the form of squares or rectangles.
- Rack got this name because they are used in interior decoration.
- Designer - separate view , more expensive, but distinguished by originality and sophistication.
The device type assumes two types:
- open- with gaps between adjacent rails.
- Closed. Presented with a smooth surface with tight-fitting panels.
The main characteristics of the rack aluminum ceiling
Technical features
Despite the variety of manufacturers, the parameters of the rails are similar to each other:
- Lamellas and decorative caps are made from aluminum sheets. Between themselves, they differ in thickness.
- The appearance of the rack panels is represented by long three- or four-meter strips. If larger slats are required, they can be made to order. The maximum length of one panel is 6 meters. Such lamellas are usually installed in spacious high rooms, as standard rooms are smaller.
- The edges of the rails are bent in a special way, which makes it possible to securely fix them to the stringers.
- The slats are either solid or micro-perforated. The front surface is decorated with various color shades and textured coatings.
- The stringers are made in the form of U-shaped profiles with carved tongues on the edges, which securely hold the lamellas. Through holes are made in the upper part of the tires for attaching them to suspensions. The standard length is 4 m.
- Depending on the material of manufacture, the stringers are either aluminum or galvanized steel.
- The thickness of the rails is 0.3-0.6 mm.
openslatted ceilings suggest the formation of small gaps between the panels (up to 16 mm). Traverses are visible through them.
This system acquires a decorative appearance through the use of special layouts that are installed between adjacent rails. They are produced in the same colors as the main coating, or differ in shades from the panels. The layouts are smaller in size than the main rails, then they “sink” into the gap formed. Or match the dimensions of the panels. In this case, their fastening is carried out flush with the rails, resulting in a flat surface.
Closed slatted aluminum ceilings mounted with a tight fit of the panels to each other. The principle of installation resembles the laying of lining. Such an installation is also carried out using traverses, but without the use of decorative overlays.
The installation and installation process of rack suspended structures are not difficult, therefore they can be carried out independently.
On a note! Experts advise to pay great attention to the correct fixation of the rails to the frame.
Installation of a suspended structure takes place in several stages:
- Markup.
- Frame installation.
- Panel fastening.
- Installation of decorative caps.
Before starting work, carefully read the instructions so as not to damage the material. Professionals suggest that you first make the correct calculations, the accuracy of which depends on the success of the work. It's also a good idea if you're trained to use power tools. But even without such skills, you will be able to mount the rack aluminum ceiling with your own hands.
What materials are needed for installation
You need to buy in advance:
- Combs.
- Rails of the desired length.
- Starting aluminum or galvanized profile.
- Decorative caps.
- Fasteners - dowels and screws.
Material calculation
- For the frame. The profile is sold in standard sizes of 2.5 or 3 meters. To calculate its quantity, you need to know the perimeter of the room. Divide this figure by the length of one profile strip and get the number of elements. If the total number is not a whole number, round it up to the next whole number.
The installation of guides is carried out in a parallel direction every 100 cm, the first is installed 40 cm from the wall surface. Calculate the required number of meters of traverses by adding. And divide it by the length of one stringer.
Suspensions are calculated in the same way. To fix one profile to the wall surface, four self-tapping screws are enough for you; the suspension is attached to the base ceiling with one self-tapping screw. Count the number of hangers based on the number of guide rails. One guide profile must be mounted on four hangers.
- For rails. In this case, you need to take into account the type of aluminum slatted false ceiling - open or closed.
We have calculated the minimum amount of materials that you will need to install the ceiling. To make the work go smoothly, it will not be superfluous to add 10%.
To install an aluminum ceiling from rails, prepare the following tools:
- level or level;
- roulette;
- perforator;
- simple pencil;
- screwdriver;
- scissors or a hacksaw for metal.
Ceiling markings
Before you do it yourself, you will need to mark the rough surface. The procedure will be as follows:
- If you plan to install chandeliers or lamps on the ceilings, then outline their locations in advance.
- Step back from any corner 15-20 cm down and mark on the wall the required distance from the ceiling. In this case, the height of the lamp must be taken into account.
- Using a level or level, put another mark from the previous one at a distance of 50 cm.
- Mark points through the same gap along all the walls of the room.
- With paint upholstery thread, connect all the marks to each other.
First you need to make a frame for a new ceiling:
- Measure the wall and cut the profile to size with a grinder or hacksaw for cutting metal materials. So prepare it for all the walls.
- Attach the profile to the wall surface with self-tapping screws every 50 cm and install wall corners.
Important! The wall corner is pre-fixed by cutting its edges at an angle of 45 degrees. Holes are drilled in the corner, the element is fixed to the wall.
- Install hangers. They must be on the same level.
- Measure the length of the stringers, cut the material, and fix the tires flush with the profile in a perpendicular direction to the rails in 100-120 cm increments from each other.
- If the stringer is not long enough, add material to the existing plank.
Installation of aluminum lamellas
After you have installed the tires, you can proceed to the installation of the main cover:
- Remove the protective film from the strips, cut the products to the desired length. They should be 3 cm shorter than the gap from wall to wall.
- Fill the lamella into the comb and fix it along the entire ceiling. Do this with all rails except for the last one.
Important! Immediately pay attention to the evenness of the ceiling, adjust it with suspensions.
- If the finishing ceiling batten is wider than the remaining uncovered section of the ceiling, cut it along in a straight line with a construction knife. Bend the rail in different directions until it breaks.
- Close the gaps with decorative inserts.
Slatted aluminum ceilings in the interior (photo)
Such designs may vary in design. Due to this, they are increasingly being used to decorate ceilings not only in public buildings, but also in residential buildings and apartments.
Regardless of the type of installation (open or closed), you will be able to create an original interior with the inclusion of these structures.
You can choose decorative elements that will match the color of the main coating, or differ from it in shades, creating trendy design solutions.
Currently, rack ceilings are available in different color variations. Silver, gold and white tones continue to be the most common. You can find on sale lamellas with images printed on their surface, glossy or matte textures.
Choose an Italian or German design for your ceiling and your room will sparkle with new colors.
How to make a slatted aluminum ceiling in the bathroom with your own hands video
- a rather complicated procedure, but if you follow the instructions and approach the matter with all seriousness, then everything will certainly work out. Much depends on the geometric shape of the room - if the room is rectangular, then there should be no installation problems at all.
For the first time, aluminum rack ceilings appeared in Russia at the end of the last century, that is, approximately when the Russians learned about the “European-style renovation”. The first ceilings were made in Germany and were, of course, quite expensive.
Despite this, the demand for them increased and many craftsmen, who appreciated all the advantages of the design, began to widely use it when renovating a kitchen or bathroom.
Note! Modern (mostly white) models are equipped with decorative inserts that allow not only to ennoble the room, but also not to disturb the interior design.
Design features
The rails are attached to a steel traverse - a toothed profile. There are several types of rails and all have their own traverses. It is important that both of them are from the same manufacturer - so after installation there will be no gaps and cracks.
The ceiling is installed after plastering the room and installing windows. If electric cables were run along the ceiling, then they must be fixed so that they do not interfere with work.
Stage 1. Measurements
You need to start with measurements. If for some reason you doubt yourself, then it is better to entrust this to a professional measurer. His work will cost about 500 rubles.
Stage 2. Buying everything you need
The work will require the following tools:
- metal scissors;
- building level;
- roulette;
- screwdriver;
- electric drill;
- laser level.
In addition, for installation you will need a number of materials:
- panels;
- screws;
- guides;
- dowel;
- traverses;
- suspensions.
The key points when choosing panels (rails) are dimensions.
- Width products ranges between 10 cm and 20 cm, but it is better to buy exactly 10 cm slats - they are the most popular.
- Length it can be 3 m or 4 m. If none of the options fit, then you should find a company that provides services for a machine for cutting panels.
- From thickness rails directly depends on the reliability of the entire structure. The best option is ½ mm, in which the strength of the ceiling will be high and the cost acceptable.
- Closed slats vaguely resemble a wooden lining.
- Open rails can only be installed in rooms with a height of more than 5 m, so such products are unlikely to be suitable for a bathroom or kitchen. Installed with a small gap - no more than 1 cm.
- Products with inserts are the same open ones, but the gaps in this case are masked by decorative aluminum strips.
The color of the rack ceiling depends on the taste of the owner and the design of the room.
Note! To repaint the ceiling in a different color, enamel paint is used - one layer will be enough. To make the ceiling mirror, you need to buy chrome aluminum slats.
It is characteristic that the rails should be sold in a special protective film. You should not buy products on which this film is not available.
Stage 3. Calculation of the cost
The cost of the rack ceiling includes the following components:
- traverses (or tires, as they are also called) - toothed strips, to which, as mentioned earlier, panels are attached;
- the plinth is used purely for decorative purposes - it closes the resulting gap between the ceiling and the wall;
- suspension - ordinary steel wire fixed on the ceiling; traverses are attached to the suspensions, so the rack ceiling is called suspended;
- fixtures - they should be taken care of in advance, because after installing the ceiling they will be difficult to install.
Stage 4. Installation
Step 1. On each wall you need to install guides (stringers). The place of the future ceiling is indicated - it drops by about 20 cm relative to the old one. The line must be strictly horizontal, so when marking, you can use a laser level. Profiles will be attached along this line.
Step 2. The profiles must be attached to the line, and holes must be made in the appropriate places. Dowels are hammered in and screws are screwed in. As a result, the profile is attached to the wall every half a meter, the horizontalness is checked using the mounting level.
Note! In the corners, the guides are connected as shown in the image.
Step 3. Upon completion of the installation of the perimeter, suspensions are installed. The distance between them should not exceed 1 m. The hangers are fastened with screws and dowels, after which they are checked by level.
Step 4 Traverses are attached to the hangers. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the traverses are on the same level with the guides at an angle of 90ᵒ to the rails. The design should come out smooth, because this affects the appearance of the future ceiling.
If the traverses are too short, then they can be extended by butt-joining two adjacent products. Upon completion of the installation of the traverses, the assembly of the ceiling itself begins.
Step 5. The slats are peeled off the protective film and cut according to the size of the room. Then the slats are inserted into the guides around the entire perimeter, after which the traverses snap into place. As a result, such a surface should come out.
It is worth noting that many are afraid not of the installation of the rack ceiling itself, but of its repair. For this reason, when assembling, you should try not to deform the rails (and they, by the way, are quite easy to deform). If, nevertheless, any damage appears, it is better to replace the entire panel.
Video - Assembling the rack ceiling
Mirrored aluminum ceiling
Such a ceiling consists of the same rails coated with a special reflective substance (often chromium). In addition to aesthetics, mirrored ceilings have the following advantages:
- ease of care;
- the illusion of increasing space, which is especially important in small apartments;
- a wide range of textures and shades;
- lack of difficulties in installing fixtures.
After reviewing the main benefits, you can get to work.
Stage 1. Preparation
When buying mirror rails, special attention should be paid to details. High-quality products are covered with a special protective layer that prevents the formation of cracks, scratches and other damage. In addition to the rails themselves, the work will require:
- skirting boards;
- guides;
- suspensions;
- tires.
Here is a list of required equipment:
- mounting level;
- dowel;
- electric drill;
- perforator;
- hacksaw for metal;
- cord;
- self-tapping screws.
Stage 2. Markup
Before installation, it is not necessary to specially prepare the ceiling plane, but if the finishing material leaves, then it is better to get rid of it.
A horizontal line is drawn around the entire perimeter (about 20 cm below the existing ceiling). If you plan to install spotlights, then wiring is laid.
Stage 3. Assembly of the frame
Step 1 According to the markings made, guides for the ceiling are installed. Mounting is carried out in the same way as when installing a conventional rack ceiling.
Step 2. Stringers are inserted into the guides, and suspensions are attached above them.
Note! For suspensions, it is desirable to use clamping mechanisms, since they are easily adjusted if necessary.
Step 3. The stringers are connected at the same level with the hangers. To do this, you can pull the cord diagonally.
Stage 4. Assembly of the ceiling
When assembling the mirror ceiling, the protective film must not be removed. Segments of the required length (approximately 3 mm less than the distance between the walls) are cut directly into the film.
Note! Only the edges of the rails are cleaned.
Otherwise, the technology for installing a mirror structure does not differ in any way from that described above.
As a conclusion
Modern slatted ceilings are distinguished by reliability and aesthetics, and recently they are increasingly used exclusively for decoration. Aluminum rails are very popular, because they are not subject to corrosion and do not burn, so they can be installed in rooms with high fire safety requirements.
Finally, one more piece of advice. Before buying a ceiling, you need to think about whether it is advisable to lose 20 cm of free space for it. Perhaps the height is already small, and the slatted ceiling (if it is not mirrored) will reduce it not only visually, but also physically.
But still, the suspended ceiling has many positive qualities, therefore, in most cases, they do not pay attention to such minor flaws.
According to the location of the panels, slatted aluminum suspended ceilings are divided into the following varieties:
- Open system ceilings. They are installed with small gaps between the rail panels, which can be open or covered with special inter-rail inserts. The slots left between the slats allow ventilation of the space under the cladding, and the use of inserts makes it possible to color the ceilings.
- Closed system ceilings. In such ceilings, the slats are installed closely, forming a continuous surface. To avoid monochrome, you can use panels of different textures and colors.
When planning the dimensions of the rack aluminum ceiling and its location, one should take into account the direction of the joints of the structural panels, which form straight lines. Usually they are located from the window to the wall opposite it. Narrow rooms visually change proportions when placing panels across the ceiling; in square rooms, diagonal joint lines will look good.
Advantages and disadvantages of rack aluminum ceiling
The advantages of rack ceilings are impressive:
- Ease of installation of the aluminum rack ceiling and its disassembly, the ability to access communications.
- Excellent quality, confirmed by international and domestic certificates.
- Moisture resistance. Aluminum is absolutely not afraid of dampness and hot steam, so ceilings made from this material work great in wet rooms and outdoors.
- Durability - the service life of aluminum ceilings is 30-50 years.
- Ecological cleanliness: the material for the manufacture of ceilings is absolutely safe for health. On their surface there is no mold and pathogens. If necessary, ceilings can be washed using water, disinfectants and detergents.
- Fire safety. Aluminum is fire resistant, for this reason, such rack ceilings are recommended to be installed in rooms with increased fire safety requirements.
- Possibility of mounting fixtures that are designed specifically for slatted ceilings. This solves the problem of creating optimal lighting.
Important! The surface of aluminum slatted ceilings has a reflective property. Therefore, the premises equipped with such structures seem bright and do not require additional energy costs.
Design features of rack aluminum ceiling
The ceiling has a simple design, which includes the following elements:
- stringers. These are load-bearing rails designed for attaching cladding panels to them. They are made in the form of U-shaped profiles with tongues carved on their edges - fasteners. Stringers are made of galvanized steel or aluminum alloys in case of mounting tires in wet areas. Their upper part is equipped with holes for attaching suspensions.
- Adjustable hangers. Serve for fastening stringers and their vertical adjustment for placement in one horizontal plane. The suspension consists of a rod and a bracket. The rod is attached to the base ceiling, and the bracket is attached to the stringer.
- Rack panels. These are strips 3-4 m long, 100-200 mm wide, made of aluminum and having edges bent in a special way, with which they cling to the supporting tires. The thickness of the strips is 0.3-0.6 mm. Reiki are made with or without perforation. Their outer coating can have any texture and color. Also, the facing material may be in the form of curved strips. This makes it possible to produce curved and two-level designs of slatted ceilings.
- Interrail inserts. These are narrow panels made of aluminum. They are used in open grid ceilings to close the gaps between the front elements of the structure.
- Angle profile. This is a decorative element of the rack ceiling, which is used to mask its joints with the walls.
Do-it-yourself technology for mounting a rack aluminum ceiling
After studying the arrangement of the rack aluminum ceiling, choosing its type and design, you can proceed with the installation of the structure. For its implementation, you will need a drill and a puncher, a level and a tape measure, a knife, a marker, metal scissors, dowels and self-tapping screws. The work includes several stages.
How to make a frame for a slatted aluminum ceiling
Guide profiles are installed on the walls around the perimeter of the room in this way:
- Using a marker, you need to mark the level of the new ceiling. Its distance from the base structure should be more than 5 cm. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account the height of the space for placing utilities behind the slatted ceiling: equipment, pipes, cables, etc.
- Then this mark must be transferred to the corners of the room and the resulting points connected with one line. The mark is transferred using a building water or laser level.
- According to the line obtained, measure the length of the wall and cut off a piece of an angular profile of the appropriate size with scissors for metal. Its standard length is 3 m. This procedure must be repeated for all walls and the required number of ceiling guide elements must be obtained.
- Then, according to the markup, all profiles must be fixed to the wall with dowels and screws. This will require preliminary preparation of holes in the walls and profile shelves, which can be made with a puncher and a drill. The profile fastening step is 50-60 cm.
- At the inner corners of the room, the profile should be fixed end-to-end, and when fastened at the outer corners, its ends must be cut at an angle of 45 degrees.
Suspension rods are attached to the base surface with anchors with its preliminary drilling. All hangers must be at the same level. This is easy to achieve as they are height adjustable. The correct position of the suspensions is determined by a laser level.
Bearing tires (stringers) are the basis for the design of a suspended rack ceiling. They must be installed flush with the guide profile perpendicular to the aluminum rails with a pitch not exceeding 1-1.2 m. The tires are attached to the hangers with a screwdriver through special holes provided by the stringer design. The quality of the plane of the future ceiling depends on the correct fixation of the tires.
If the stringer is shorter than expected, it can be lengthened. To do this, the suspension is mounted on the edge of the next tire, and the second is screwed end-to-end with the first.
How to fix aluminum rails to the ceiling
Installation of suspended ceiling aluminum rails has the following sequence:
- The slats should be peeled of the protective film and cut according to the size of the room, but their length should be 3-5 mm less than the distance between its opposing walls.
- Then the slats should be carefully inserted into the stringers and snapped along their entire length onto the fixings of the support rails. Reiki are installed alternately next to each other. If necessary, the height of the stringers can be corrected by changing the length of the adjustable hangers.
- If the width of the last rail is too large, it can be cut off. To do this, you need to measure the required distance along the entire length of the rail and draw a line along the ruler with a knife. Then you should alternately bend and unbend the panel until it breaks.
- It is better to cut long slats in parts by making transverse cuts before marking. The cut panel after installation is fixed with wooden braces or corner profile trimmings with the cut side in the wall profile, and its other edge is attached to the stringer tongues.
- Lastly, a decorative plinth is installed. It gives the slatted ceiling a finished look and masks its gaps against the walls.
How to make an aluminum ceiling - look at the video:
With how to assemble a rack aluminum ceiling, we think you figured it out. But in the end, I would like to say the following. Perhaps metal is not immediately perceived as a material suitable for a house or apartment. But this opinion often changes when evaluating the appearance and characteristics of a rack aluminum ceiling. Moreover, it is ideal for use in bathrooms or on balconies due to its aesthetics and moisture-resistant properties.
It is not in vain that the aluminum ceiling has gained fame and demand for itself, because its popularity is based on important advantages for the user:
- Weather Resistance - Immune to corrosion in wet environments
- Ease of care, maintenance and repair, when a separate deformed link is to be replaced, and not the entire structure as a whole.
- The best value for money among decorative and practical ceiling coverings.
- Ease and availability of installation
So, you have decided to install an aluminum ceiling, and also find out the cost of this service. Let's try to understand in more detail
What should be done before purchasing?
How is an aluminum rack ceiling made?
Rack aluminum ceiling is a structure consisting of aluminum panels, parts for their connection (intermediate profiles and corners), as well as a suspension system and rails with profile fasteners.
NOTE
When buying in a store suspended aluminum ceiling kit must include such mandatory elements as
- wall corner (end profile)
- universal carrier rail (stringer)
- universal suspension (clip + spoke)
- aluminum panel
- inter-rail insert (in the case of a closed-type installation).
IMPORTANT
You should make sure that the kit is sold to you in the original factory packaging that protects the aluminum panels from scratches and deformation.
So, the base is prepared, the material is purchased, installation can be carried out.
Step-by-step example of mounting a closed-type aluminum slatted ceiling
Step 1. Stock up on tools
To perform the work, we need a laser or water level in order to correctly apply the markup, a grinder or a hacksaw for cutting components to the specified parameters, a perforator.
Step 2. Marking
The marking for the future rack ceiling consists of a base line - it determines its position in relation to the ceiling; lines along which fasteners will be installed; lines around the perimeter of the room for fixing the wall corner.
Let's start with the line under the corner. Along the perimeter of the room, we mark the points of the horizontal plane, then connect them with a pencil and a ruler. The line is ready.
Step 3. Attaching the wall bracket
Using a grinder, we cut off the wall corner to the required length (the length of the walls of the room). The step of attaching the corner to the wall will be 30-40 cm. Taking into account the step in the corner, we will drill the required number of holes, then attach it to the wall and mark the drilling points for the dowels.
NOTE
If the walls of the room are covered with tiles, the markings for the dowel should not coincide with the tile joint. Otherwise, when drilling, a split of the tile is possible.
After preparing the holes, we fix the wall corner to the wall along the entire perimeter of the room.
Step 4. Attaching universal hangers
The installation of a slatted aluminum ceiling is impossible without attaching suspensions, on which a rail carrying aluminum slats will subsequently be hung.
The markings for hangers are carried out as follows: the first and last row of hangers are fixed at a distance of 400 mm from the wall. The rest are located at a distance of 1200 mm from each other.
After the markings have been applied and the suspensions have been strengthened, the carrier rail can be fixed.
Step 5 Attaching the Stringer
We attach a stinger (carrier rail) to the installed suspensions. It's not hard. There are hooks on the suspensions, and holes for them in the universal tire. The universal carrier rail is also likely to be slightly oversized and needs to be trimmed before attaching to hangers.
The stinger installed in this way is joined to the end profile (wall corner).
Step 6. Assembling the ceiling
We cut aluminum panels with metal scissors to the desired size and fasten them to the tire.
The bus has cut grooves, each aluminum rail is attached to it by snapping to a characteristic sound.
The edges of the rail should lie on the shelf of the wall corner. From which side you start to do this, it does not matter, do what is more convenient for you.
NOTE
Whichever side you start assembling the ceiling structure, it rarely happens that the last rail is ideal in width. Therefore, its installation process is a little more time-consuming, unlike the others. The last rail will need to be cut to the width of the remaining gap.
Step 7. Installing the interstitial inserts
We do the installation of an aluminum rack ceiling of a closed type. Therefore, in the gaps between the main panels, inter-rail inserts will be located. They are also cut to the required dimensions and inserted into the gap between the panels until a characteristic click is heard.
Step 8: Ceiling Adjustment
ADVICE
When the last rail is fixed, and the ceiling is assembled, with the help of hangers it is necessary to adjust it so that it clearly and evenly lies on the shelf of the end profile.
Step 9. Remaining work. Installing the light
If you planned to install built-in light sources, it's time to do it now.
NOTE
Holes for lighting devices are cut out in the profile before it is attached to the stringers according to the planned lighting scheme and the location of the electrical wiring.
We took a step-by-step look at the self-assembly and installation of a slatted aluminum ceiling. You can get additional information on self-assembly of rack ceilings.
It can also be noted that the installation of open-type aluminum rack ceilings, as well as other varieties, does not differ much from that considered in the direction of complication.
What is the price of installation by specialists?
The initial cost of installing such a ceiling starts at 400 rubles per square meter.
Some firms offer to distinguish between the installation of the frame and the assembly of the rack ceiling. So, the installation of a frame made of aluminum guides will cost the customer 150 rubles per square meter, the installation of the ceiling itself, excluding work on the frame, will also cost 400 rubles per unit area.
Thus, the customer has the opportunity to do the least time-consuming, in his opinion, part of the work on his own, and to involve specialists in the rest. Or order the entire scope of work, focusing on the cost of 550 rubles per square meter. All additional services (installation of lighting fixtures, wall chasing, loading and delivery services) are paid separately.
Make the installation of an aluminum rack ceiling with your own hands to the last dowel or entrust this work to professionals - the choice is yours!
Before installation, it is necessary to correctly determine the attachment points for suspensions and stringers, taking into account the minimum distances indicated in the figure, and the location of lamps, diffusers and other elements that will be mounted in the future ceiling in order to prevent their intersection with the stringer.
It is possible to fasten the stringer to the main ceiling (ceiling) in three ways:
1. Directly with a self-tapping screw through the holes in the stringer, adjusting the level by the depth of the screw;
2. Self-tapping screw through the spring, with insufficient length of the self-tapping screw;
3. Using a spoke with an adjusting spring. It is possible to use knitting needles of various lengths. Needles that are too long can be trimmed.
Before installing the first panel, it must be cut 5 mm shorter than the actual size of the room. The panel snaps onto the stringer with light pressure.
The first and second panels must be installed next to opposite walls.
The edge panel often cannot fit entirely, it all depends on the size of the room. In such cases, it must be cut along. For this, the distance from the wall to the interpanel profile following the extreme panel is measured.
Transfer the obtained measurement results to the panel to be trimmed. Note: for accuracy, it is necessary to measure the distance in several places, as shown in the figure. Then connect the marked points along the ruler, thereby marking the cut line.
Using a paint knife, make an incision along the entire cut line with the force of your hand. If necessary, draw the knife again for a deeper cut.
Cut the part of the panel that will be cut off with metal scissors into segments of 20-30 cm and break them off alternately by bending in different directions.
Before installing the end profile, it is necessary to flatten the rolled edge at a distance of 1.5 cm from the end of the profile on both sides. This can be done with pliers or pliers. To avoid scratches, it is better to do this through a piece of cardboard or other soft material.
Install the cut panel together with the end profile, to tightly fix the panel in the end profile, use pieces of the end or interpanel profile, there should be a lot of such pieces if you previously installed rack ceilings. These pieces are wedged between the upper and lower flange of the end profile, thereby pressing the cut panel against the lower flange. The installed interpanel profile completes the strength of this structural element.
When the base of the ceiling is assembled, it is necessary to set the longitudinal and transverse level, and adjust it using the adjusting springs, moving them along the spoke, or by adjusting the depth of the screw. Depending on what method of fastening was used.
A panel pre-cut by 3-5 mm is first inserted with one end into the end profile until it stops. Having placed the panel diagonally, we start the second end into the opposite profile and slide it to the required position of the panel. The interpanel profile is inserted between two installed panels. In order for it to go into both end profiles, it needs to be slightly bent, avoiding a break.
When the last few panels are left, there is not enough space to install them diagonally in the end profile.
If the size of the room allows, then the panel can be slightly bent, thereby it will easily go into both end profiles. In this case, the length of the panel must exceed 2 meters.
The second way. It is necessary to cut the panel by 1.5 cm, insert one end into the end profile until it stops. Then the second end should freely enter the second profile. Align the panel symmetrically with respect to the two ends.
Holes in the panel for the lamp, diffuser and other elements are cut out as follows. If the diameter of the luminaire allows it to fit into the panel, then a circle of the required size is drawn in this place. Then, an incision is made along the circumference with a paint knife, and the resulting circle is divided into sectors by the same incisions. Carefully, separating one sector by swinging, we will get an even hole for the lamp.
If necessary, place the luminaire between two adjacent panels, two semicircles are cut out on the panels, and the interpanel profile is divided into two. Semicircles are cut out with the same paint knife. Places of installation of lamps and diffusers in this way are reinforced with additional stringers without suspensions.
To install a 600x600 raster luminaire, the luminaire itself is suspended on separate suspensions, and the trimmed panels are closed with an end profile. The installation sites of such lamps are reinforced with additional stringers.
The panel adjacent to the raster lamp can not be cut, but bent, preventing it from warping.
A rack ceiling is a simple structure that consists of rails (can be made of aluminum, plastic or thin-walled metal), from 50 to 200 millimeters wide and up to six meters long; load-bearing bars (called traverse, comb or stringer); wall plinths (can be in the form of a corner or a U-shaped profile); as well as various fastening elements of the traverse.
Such a ceiling can be of two types: open, when an inter-rail bar is installed between the rails, which can be five to ten times narrower than the main one in width; and closed, when the slats are close to each other.
I would also like to note that by alternating the rails and inter-rail strips with different colors, you can get very interesting design solutions.
Do-it-yourself installation of a rack ceiling should not cause problems due to the ease of installation of the entire structure.
To install a rack ceiling you will need:
- Hammer drill
- Pliers
- construction pencil
- carpentry knife
- Hydraulic level
- A hammer
- dowel
- Metal shears
- Roulette
Installation of load-bearing structures (stringers)
Installing a slatted suspended ceiling, like any other, begins with markings.
With the help of a hydraulic level, we mark the required height of the future ceiling. Then, stepping back from the wall a distance of 30 cm, draw a line parallel to the wall, this will be the place for attaching the first comb. Parallel to this line, we draw the rest of the mounting lines of the traverse at a distance of no more than 120 cm from each other (if the room is narrow and the length of the installed panel (rail) is no more than two meters, then installation on wall skirting boards alone can be dispensed with).
The choice of stringer mounts to the ceiling depends on how much distance you need to get between the main ceiling and the rack. If you have planned the installation of spotlights, then the space should be at least 15 cm for ease of installation of fixtures.
Conversely, if the height of the main ceiling is low, then the combs are mounted directly on it. If, nevertheless, you need some inter-ceiling space, then the stringers must be attached to the ceiling with adjustable springs.
The suspension mounting distance is no more than 1200 mm.
Installation of wall plinths
After all the traverses are safely installed, you can proceed with the installation of skirting boards.
They are mounted directly on the wall with dowels or screws. When installing skirting boards, the marks previously applied to the walls using a hydraulic level should serve as a guideline. When the installation of the skirting boards is completed, it is necessary to align the traverses in the same plane with the help of a level and with an eye on the installed skirting boards.
Panel installation
After you have checked the correct installation of the stringers, as well as checked the correct wiring of electric lighting cables or other inter-ceiling communications, you can proceed directly to installing the panels.
To do this, you need to start the installation from the wall, near which the first whole (not cut off) panel will be mounted. The length of the panel is taken 3-4 mm shorter than the measured distance from wall to wall. If mistakes were made during the installation of the traverse and some stresses occurred in the plane of the panels, then they can be corrected by adjusting the suspensions.
The installation of inter-rail strips is carried out after the complete installation of the main panels.
This video tutorial will help you more clearly understand all the features of installing a rack suspended ceiling.
Mounting Features
There are no special differences from the installation of suspended ceilings.
When cutting holes for the lamp, it is recommended to use the segment method, then the hole will turn out to be even and neat. If you have some experience in installing plastic and false ceilings, then installing a slatted ceiling with your own hands will not cause you any difficulties.
Rack ceiling made of aluminum profile - device and installation
Considering the topic of slatted ceilings, it is necessary to touch on the concept of suspended ceilings in general. The name speaks for itself: they are suspended from the base base with an indent from it.
Given their decorative function, slatted suspended ceilings are also called false ceilings. Their popularity is based on a number of advantages, which are sometimes decisive:
- quick and easy assembly;
- no need to prepare the base;
- ease of solving the issue of lighting;
- the possibility of hidden installation of communications;
- unlimited choice of design solutions;
- availability due to the widest range of options.
The disadvantages include the presence of space between the false ceiling and the base ceiling, which reduces the height of the ceilings in the room.
Benefits of slatted ceilings
Slatted - ceilings assembled from slats, long narrow panels.
- eurolining;
- wall panels (PVC, MDF);
- metal rails - aluminum, as a rule.
Each option is worth considering.
But aluminum slatted ceilings are the most interesting. Let's focus on them.
Advantages of aluminum slatted ceilings:
- ease of installation;
- moisture resistance;
- fire safety;
- resistance to chemical and bacterial influences;
- maintainability;
- strength;
- availability;
- design exclusivity.
Photo of slatted aluminum suspended ceiling.
Installation of aluminum slatted ceilings
The design of rack suspended ceilings involves the use of several elements:
- Aluminum panels (slats), 40 to 400 mm wide and 3 to 6 meters long.
- Inserts (narrow rails, 16 mm wide).
- Bearing profile (tire, stringer, comb, 4 m long).
- Hangers (adjustable spring or universal).
- End edging (wall corner or U-shaped profile).
Species and types
Panels come in different widths, differ in color, texture, design features: they are open and closed.
This refers to the differences in their form.
Open-type panels, with standard assembly, form gaps 16 mm wide between themselves, into which a narrow insert must be inserted. If the insert is not mounted, then through slots will remain and the panels will not be fixed rigidly.
Closed-type rails are designed to be installed with or without an insert.
And their shape causes alternate assembly, since each next edge overlaps the previous one.
There is another type of rack ceilings - slotless, assembled without inserts. In fact, any panels can be assembled without gaps. Because it depends not on their shape, but on the characteristics of the carrier rail.
Learn more about structural elements
Carrier rail
The bearing profile is a rigid steel structure.
It has a V or H-shape, in the upper part of which there are holes for a suspension hook. At the bottom - there are spikes clamps. Panels are attached to them. The type of ceiling being assembled depends on the location of the spikes and the distance between them.
When purchasing a rack ceiling, it is important to pay attention to the specifics of the stringers. They must match exactly the selected panels and the type of assembly (with a gap or without a gap).
Typically, the distance between the spikes involves the installation of panels of a certain width, with a gap for a decorative insert.
Hangers
The comb is attached with hangers or directly to the base ceiling. The choice is determined by the height of the ceilings in the room. If this parameter allows you to "steal" 10 - 20 cm, then an adjustable suspension is used.
Euro hangers are often included in the scope of delivery of slatted suspended ceilings.
This fastener consists of two steel spokes arranged in parallel.
From above there is a bend in the form of a ring for a self-tapping screw, from below - a hook inserted into the carrier rail. The spokes are connected by a C-shaped plate (spring), the tension of which fixes the adjustment. Such a suspension is convenient in installation and adjustment, but it requires a large space between the base and suspended ceilings.
Universal ceiling suspension - perforated stainless steel band.
Universal suspension allows you to mount a false ceiling at a distance of 5 - 10 cm from the ceiling.
Its disadvantage is the need to screw the profile to the suspension, which complicates the adjustment. But if the master is not the first time he holds a screwdriver in his hands, this is not a problem.
edging
The most important design element is the end edging.
It does not carry a load and performs a decorative function. The entire visual effect comes from this element. After all, the eyes primarily see the edging, junctions and corners.
The choice between a wall corner and a U-profile is quite simple - an experienced craftsman will recommend exactly the profile.
It is rigid in itself and adds rigidity to the entire ceiling structure. However, the package often includes simple corners, they are cheaper.
The U-profile is irreplaceable where it is impossible to touch the walls once again.
For example, a tile may lie with voids. And this means that drilling and drilling will lead to a split of the tile.
In most cases, a wall corner is used. But smooth walls are rare, and the aluminum corner poorly repeats their curvature. That is, it forms gaps that cannot be corrected.
These gaps will be between the wall and the corner, and between the slats and the corner. True, sometimes it turns out to bend the corner, reducing the gap. But you should not hope for it. It is better to check how curved the walls are, and proceed from this during the purchase of material and its installation. In any case, the U-shaped profile is mounted closer to the panels, eliminating unnecessary gaps.
The procedure for installing an aluminum rack ceiling
The assembly of suspended rack ceilings can be divided into two stages:
- frame installation;
- panel installation.
wall corner
The first stage begins with the installation of a wall corner or U-profile.
First you need to beat off the intended ceiling height with a building level around the entire perimeter. If the room is of a decent size, it will be convenient to use a laser or hydro level.
Advice: many use a bright marker for these purposes, without thinking that it will have to be erased.
And it's not certain that it can be done. It is better to draw a light dotted line with a simple pencil.
Beating off the perimeter, you need to measure the dimensions of the walls with a tape measure and write directly on them.
It is advisable to specify them to the nearest millimeter. When cutting off the necessary pieces of the wall corner, the places of their connection in the corners must be done end-to-end. In the outer corners, the edges are connected at an angle of 45 degrees.
Photo of the installed wall corner.
The main thing is that there is no overlap, as it will add gaps between the corner and the panels.
This means that from each signed size you need to subtract the width of the corner or profile - 20 or 25 mm.
As a rule, the edging is cut with simple scissors for metal. But you need to be careful not to wrinkle the edges. They can be straightened with pliers or a hammer, but traces will surely remain. In addition to scissors, this work can be done with a grinder.
However, the paint around the edges of the product will most likely turn black from heat.
Advice: a neat, but not easy, way is to use a hacksaw.
Then, holes are drilled on the surface of the corner that will be pressed against the wall, approximately every 50 cm. Having put the profile in place, mark the holes with a pencil on the wall and drill holes with a diameter of 5-6 mm for dowels.
Advice: when mounting the edging to tiled walls, you can try to screw the self-tapping screw into the seam.
Sometimes this is the only way to avoid splitting tiles and speed up the process.
During operation, it is important to pay attention to the curvature of the walls, based on which the dowels are placed. By pulling the corner in places of depressions, it will be possible to avoid the appearance of gaps between the edge and the wall.
The corner, most likely, will bend and form gaps between itself and the slats. It is possible to make it completely without gaps if the walls are even. Otherwise, you need to look for the "golden mean".
Carrier rail
Having fixed the edging (corner), the carrier rail is mounted. It is installed perpendicular to the rails, cut with metal scissors or a grinder - aesthetics do not play a role here. The location of the spikes on the stringer is important. You need to cut the stringer so that the first panel clearly hits these spikes.
Having prepared segments of the tire of a suitable length, they are laid on the wall corner, inserting a gasket 10 mm thick.
If a U-profile is used, the stringer is laid on its upper shelf.
Carrier rail mounting.
The carrier profile must be placed 30 cm away from the side walls. The distance between the profiles should not exceed 100 - 110 cm, in order to avoid sagging of the ceiling.
The carrier rail is fastened with suspensions, the distance between which should not exceed 1 m.
The frequency of suspensions is determined in fact, based on the resulting structural rigidity.
In large rooms, a cord is used to check the evenness of the ceiling, in small rooms it is done just by eye, since the carrier profile is quite rigid in itself and should not sag.
Having mounted the frame, it is necessary to resolve the issue with lighting and distribute the wires.
Installation of fixtures is made in passing with installation of panels.
Installation of rails and lamps
The panels are always cut a little smaller than the length of the walls, for ease of installation. This operation is performed with scissors or a grinder very carefully.
Each bend, for sure, will lead to the appearance of extra gaps. Fixing the rails is easier than dismantling them, so it’s better not to make mistakes anywhere.
Installation of rack ceiling panels.
Having reached the first spotlight, it is necessary to cut a hole on the panel for it.
Advice: It is more convenient to do this while she is lying on the floor.
A hole drill for wood is suitable for this purpose. Having chosen the desired diameter, the hole is drilled at low speed drills.
Do-it-yourself installation of a rack ceiling. Instruction
In this case, you need to be careful, passing through the metal, the drill can catch on it and bend it.
The last panel usually needs to be cut lengthwise. This can be done with a simple clerical knife, the stiffeners will no longer interfere. After running them several times along the rail, they simply break it. It inserts without problems.
However, it must be taken into account that the edge of the panel is not fixed in any way. Therefore, on top of it, you can insert gaskets made of a material 10 mm thick, for example, drywall.
Slatted ceiling in the bathroom.
When planning a suspended rack ceiling, it is important to understand some of its features:
- aluminum is a soft metal, requires careful handling;
- uneven walls can spoil the appearance of the ceiling, so it's a good idea to level them first;
- aluminum rack ceiling is not fixed tightly.
And this means that attaching accessories to it is undesirable.
Installation of rack ceilings
rack ceiling- This is a type of suspended ceiling, which consists of a system of narrow panels (battens) and a suspended structure designed for their fastening.
Types of rack ceilings
So, from a variety of options for facing materials, we chose the rack ceiling. Now you need to decide on the type of ceiling, they are open and closed.
Suspended rack ceiling open type
The rack ceiling of an open type is based on the placement of the rails at a distance from each other, forming gaps between them.
Subsequently, they can be filled with inter-rail inserts or not filled at all. This type of overlap is usually installed in high rooms, where the gaps are not conspicuous. In addition, they create good ventilation and do not trap condensate on the back surface of the rails. The open type ceiling is suitable for residential premises, as well as for shopping centers, warehouses, offices
.
This is how the rail for open ceilings looks like.
Suspended rack ceiling of closed type
Accordingly, the rack ceiling of the closed type consists in placing the panels close to each other.
Closed-type rails have so-called "tongues" that allow you to hook onto the adjacent panel, forming a ceiling covering without gaps.
A closed-type rail with a "tongue" looks like this.
Rail material
The material from which the slats are made, as a rule, determines the purpose of the suspension system. The main materials are metal (steel, aluminum) and plastic.
Slatted aluminum suspended ceiling
Panels that consist of aluminum easily tolerate temperature changes and are moisture resistant.
Aluminum combines the qualities of durable metal and light picky plastic. That is why it is the most common material for slatted suspended ceilings.
Aluminum is practically not subject to corrosion.
It is aluminum slatted ceilings that will be an excellent solution for the bathroom, more details in the article slatted ceiling in the bathroom.
Also, the technical characteristics of the aluminum slatted ceiling allow you to install it in the kitchen, where you need good ventilation of the room.
Read about the advantages of slatted ceilings for the kitchen on our website.
Steel rack ceiling
Steel panels are usually installed in warehouses. Steel is durable, provides sound insulation and is a good reflector, besides this material is cheaper than aluminum. But steel can rust over time, so steel slats are best installed only in dry rooms.
Plastic rack ceiling
Such ceilings can also be called universal, they are immune to dampness and humidity, moreover, plastic is an order of magnitude cheaper than their metal counterparts.
Plastic rack ceilings do not require special care, which is important for modern housewives. That is why the plastic suspended ceiling is widely used in bathrooms and kitchens.
They are also often used in offices, warehouses and other commercial premises.
The appearance of the rails
As for the very appearance of the panels, everything is simple here: the slats are perforated and solid (solid). Most often you find solid slatted suspended ceilings.
They consist of solid panels without any additional holes.
.
Perforated panels speak for themselves. They are made by punching equidistant holes on sheet material. They are advised to be installed in rooms where good ventilation is needed.
Advantages and disadvantages of rack ceilings
Sometimes one "against" weighs much more than a few "pros", so let's take a closer look at all the pros and cons of slatted ceilings.
Advantages
Ease of installation
Hide irregularities or defects in the original ceiling
Versatility - due to such properties as fire safety, moisture resistance are applicable in any room
Practicality - do not require special care
Large selection of colors, materials, panel sizes
Reliability - rack suspension systems will last up to 50 years
Aesthetics - look very nice with the appropriate design of the room
disadvantages
They lower the level of ceilings, so it is better to choose glossy panels that will reflect the room in themselves and visually enlarge it.
One-piece dismantling - it is not possible to remove certain panels, only the entire ceiling
The relatively high prices make many wonder if it's worth it.
But in this case, the quality justifies the price.
Types of ceiling slats
Decorating ceilings with suspended systems prevents the lengthy and difficult process of leveling and cutting. One such type is the overhead ceiling, which is a system of narrow plates held by a frame to secure the suspension.
There are two main types of ceilings:
first
Clean it up. The plates interact with each other, which is the gap between them. These gaps can be decorated with special inserts or remain so.
Master class: do-it-yourself installation of ceiling strips
This type of flight is used in rooms with high wall heights where the slots are barely visible. Due to the gap, the natural ventilation of the inter-quarter space.
In addition to apartments, open ceilings are also widely used in offices, shops and shops.
2. Closing. The panels are installed from end to end, and the tightness of the connections ensures the presence of a "language" system.
Reiki is usually made from the following materials:
aluminum. Such ceilings are strong and light. They fully tolerate fluctuations in temperature and humidity, while they are not subject to corrosion. The most commonly used aluminum ceiling grids in kitchens and bathrooms due to the above properties.
steel. In most cases, it is used for finishing ceilings in warehouses.
The material is cheaper than aluminum, but it can be thinned, so it is only suitable for drying dry areas. They differ in power and sound insulation.
Plastics. In fact, it is a versatile type of lumbar flow that has excellent moisture resistance and lightness.
In addition, plastic is much cheaper than any metal. After installation, it does not need special care and can be used in premises of any purpose. 
As for the texture of the rails, they are most often monolithic, without holes. However, in order to achieve an appropriate level of ventilation, a separate line produces perforated perforated ceilings that resemble a beautiful mesh with small holes.
There is also a wide choice of sizes and shades, so it is not difficult to find the right ceiling for a particular room. The service life of such a coating, taking into account the main operational recommendations, should be at least 50 years.
