Ceiling insulation in a house with a concrete roof. Insulation of the ceiling in a private house is an important step to reduce heat loss. Features of insulation with sawdust

Houses made of rounded wood or natural timber are rightfully considered the most comfortable. Their high popularity is explained, first of all, by the naturalness of the material and good protective characteristics.

But all types of one-story buildings are characterized by significant losses through ceiling structures. Therefore, you have to fight for warmth and comfort in a wooden private house. A correctly chosen method and a well-thought-out insulation scheme are the main components of success in this fight.

Methods of thermal insulation of wooden ceiling structures

Numerous technologies for insulating ceilings in wooden houses are divided into two groups according to the place of installation of the insulation:

• from the residential premises (from the inside);
• from the attic (outside).

Both approaches have their merits and demerits. So, ceiling insulation in wooden house from the inside will save money, but will reduce the usable volume of residential premises, and the insulation laid outside will require additional protection from mechanical damage and more powerful hydro - and vapor barrier, which will entail an increase in the cost of insulation.

In the classic version, the heat-insulating layer has the following structure:

• external vapor barrier;
• insulating material;
• crate;
• internal vapor barrier;
• sheathing.

How to insulate the ceiling?

All materials that can be used to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house are divided into three groups:

• loose;
• soft;
• solid.

The first group is used only for external insulation. The other two are used in both methods.
The most popular representatives of each of the groups, respectively, are:

• sawdust;
• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam.

The easiest way to insulate is to finish the ceiling from the inside with foam. Its advantages include:

• relatively low cost of the material;
• light weight;
• unique vapor and moisture repellent properties;
• ease of installation;
• environmental friendliness.

Stages of work

First, a waterproofing layer is attached to the false ceiling between the beams. To do this, you can use glassine, plastic wrap.

Foam boards are fixed on top of the waterproofing with a special glue. After applying the adhesive to the insulation, wait 1-2 minutes and press it firmly against the ceiling. Plates are mounted end-to-end. If there are gaps between the heat-insulating products, they are sealed with mounting foam. It is better to additionally fix the insulation on the surface using self-tapping screws with washers of large diameter (10-14 mm.).

After the installation of the plates, a layer of glassine or other vapor barrier material. The whole process is completed by sheathing and decorative trim ceiling structures.

Modern industry produces foam sheets of various colors and textures. The front surface may contain an abstract pattern, which, if properly selected, will enrich the interior of the room.

Sawdust

Wood chips are natural material and well proven for thermal protection wooden houses. This technology is somewhat more complicated than foam pasting. The main difficulty lies in the preparation, or rather, the manufacture of insulation, which is a cement-sawdust mixture.

Preparation of the composition

It is better to use medium-sized chips. Tirsa for insulation is not suitable. It contains very little air. Sawdust should not be fresh. Raw materials are treated with antiseptic and antifungal compounds. by the most simple solution this task is to soak wood chips in a solution blue vitriol after which it should be thoroughly dried.

The required volume of sawdust is equal to the planned volume of the insulation layer, the recommended thickness of which is 20 centimeters.

The process of preparing a cement-sawdust mixture consists of the following steps:

• in a spacious container (a trough with sides of 25-30 cm), “cement milk” is prepared by mixing water with cement in a ratio of ten to one, and mix thoroughly;
• sawdust is added to the resulting mixture, which, during the mixing process, should be evenly covered with a layer of solution.

Surface preparation

Before proceeding with the manufacture of insulation, you should prepare the area for its application. This preparation includes the following steps:

• dismantling of the attic floor;
• cleaning the space between the lags from debris and other foreign objects;
• processing of all available structures hardwood floor antifungal and antiseptic agents;
• laying a vapor barrier carpet (as insulation, you can use a dense polyethylene film overlapped on the logs).

Application of insulation

Further, the manufactured cement-sawdust mixture is scattered over the floor area and lightly rammed. Insulation must be evenly distributed between the floor joists. After complete drying, it will be possible to walk on the resulting coating.

One of the main advantages of this method of ceiling insulation is the low cost of materials. First of all, this applies to sawdust, which, having tried, can be purchased for free.

Mineral wool

Popular heating method wooden ceiling and with the help mineral wool. By their own thermal insulation characteristics this material is superior to foam. The installation process is relatively simple.

Vapor barrier layer

A vapor barrier is laid on the outer surface of the ceiling, freed from the coating, cleaned of debris and foreign objects. As with sawdust, thick plastic wrap will work.

Install it with an overlap of about 10 cm. The seams are glued with tape.

Insulation installation

Mineral wool is produced in slabs and rolls. When using rolled material, cotton wool is unwound along the beams.

The second layer of insulation is laid in the opposite direction, covering the beams and joint areas.

For additional fixation of insulation strips, you can use nails, the heads of which should be slightly “drowned” in upper layer material.

Waterproofing

One of the few drawbacks of mineral wool, but quite significant, is its hygroscopicity. It is very easily impregnated with moisture, which has an extremely negative effect on its thermal insulation properties. Therefore, the insulation layer must have reliable external waterproofing.

Lay it on top of the mineral wool overlap with gluing the seams.

Finishing layer

If the attic is not in use, then a cement-sand screed can be made over the insulation structure. When arranging residential attics, floor boards or laminate are installed.

Warming the ceiling of a private house is relatively simple technological process. The performance of these works does not require special skills. With the desire and knowledge of the main technological points, everyone is able to cope with this task on their own.

Wooden house - the design itself is warm. That is why many city dwellers part with cramped apartments and move to a suburban home. Buildings made of wood are convenient and practical, as well as environmentally friendly. In summer, pleasant coolness reigns here, and in winter it is warm. However, even the warmest wood will not protect against severe frosts and wind: without ceiling insulation wooden room not enough.

Often, all the heat loss from the inside is due to an improperly finished ceiling. If you do not properly insulate this part of the house, you can not wait in winter time coziness and comfort. Won't help modern windows and wall insulation, it all depends on the ceiling.

How to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house?

There are several affordable and simple ways to insulate the inside and outside with your own hands. All of them are divided into two options: insulation from the outside from the attic side and indoors. When insulating the surface from the inside, you need to understand that the height may decrease. If the attic floor is insulated, after all the work it is necessary to make a floor covering.

When insulating, it is necessary to pay attention to the following indicators: strength, safety, sound insulation, fire resistance

Choosing desired material, you need to focus on the following indicators:

• strength and durability;
• no harm to health;
• fire resistance;
• reliable thermal insulation qualities;
• the presence of sound insulation.

What can be applied?

• mineral or glass wool;
• sawdust;
• polyurethane foam;
• Styrofoam;
• clay;
• expanded clay.

Use of sawdust

are the cheapest and accessible way insulation from the outside, while their qualities are not inferior expensive materials. The process itself is simple and does not require much time. Everything can be done by hand. First you need to prepare the materials:

• several bags of sawdust;
• insulating material. It needs to be calculated right amount. To do this, you need to know the surface area exactly;
• cement.

The latter is diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10. How to correctly calculate the required number of sawdust? One and a half buckets of water will be required for ten buckets of sawdust. A wet mixture should form, which will be a heater.. What should be sawdust? The first ones that come across are no good. The material must meet the following requirements:

• dryness, lack of moisture;
• age not less than a year;
• absence of mold and its smell;
• the average size. Small ones are not suitable, otherwise the thermal insulation qualities will deteriorate.

Sequencing:

1. Clean the surface from dust and dirt.
2. Treat the base with a special solution that protects the room and ceiling from fungi and insects.
3. Take the pre-prepared material for waterproofing and spread it over the entire floor space.
4. Prepare a mixture of cement and sawdust. It should be a rich gray color.
5. Distribute the mixture throughout the space of the interceiling ceiling.
6. You can walk on the layer of thermal insulation to tamp it down. This will allow the mixture to grab better and keep the heat out.

If there is access to the attic of the room, this method is the most suitable and cheapest. If you have to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house only from the inside, you will have to choose another method.

What are the advantages of roll materials?

Mineral wool and glass wool, as well as other roll insulation, reliably protect the room, but it is difficult to work with them: small particles crumble and get into the mouth, nose, eyes. To avoid injury, take care of yourself and prepare protective clothing and goggles.

The sequence of steps:

1. Nails are stuffed onto the rough surface. At the same time, it is necessary to score not on the hat, but so that they stick out a little. Then threads are pulled over them using the zigzag technique.
2. The heater itself is installed. It is better to do the work not alone, but with a partner: one will lay the rolls, and the other will pull the thread. So the glass wool will be able to push through better.
3. An anti-condensation film is attached.
4. Now you can nail the nails harder to press the layer more tightly.
5. You can nail drywall sheets or fix a false ceiling.

Attention: the work requires care and attention. It is necessary to monitor the absence of cracks: they are a source of cold and condensation.

Clay

A well-known material that is able to retain heat. Used only when adding other materials. Usually sawdust and glassine are added.

Sequence of work:

• lay glassine or any other analogue thereof;
• mix clay and sawdust (prepare a solution);
• apply the mixture in a layer of 15 cm, allow to dry. If there are cracks, they need to be rubbed with clay.

Warming from the inside

What to do if there is no access to the space above the ceiling? There is an exit. True, you should be prepared for the fact that the height will decrease somewhat. Now the insulation will be from the inside. How to carry out work?

It's simple: first comes a layer of vapor barrier, then insulation, then another layer of vapor barrier.

Why are two layers needed? They prevent the dampness of the rafters, the ceiling from the inside and the insulation. Only after that you can hem already decorative ceiling. How to do the work?

1. The first layer of vapor barrier is attached. The same parchment will do. It can be smeared with glue in several places.
2. A mounting rail is stuffed through the vapor barrier. It is better not to rush and do everything as carefully as possible: holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in the mounting rails, then you need to carefully tighten them with a screwdriver.
3. Thermal insulation is fixed. Styrofoam is inserted between the rails.
4. The second layer of the vapor barrier is attached to the rail.
5. The entire structure is masked by PVC panels.

Expanded clay

Another most simple and affordable method after sawdust. Pros:

• ecologicaly clean;
• unlike sawdust, it does not burn;
• resistant to temperature changes;
• not afraid of rodents, fungi and insects;
• simple installation technology;
• low price;
• easy to do by hand.

All work is done outside. First, the already mentioned steam and waterproofing are carried out. Even a simple PVC film will do. It is better not to use roofing felt: it can release harmful toxins. Stages of work:

1. The pipe outlet and wiring are insulated with non-combustible materials. Suitable sheets of iron or metal pipes.
2. Waterproofing is rolled out over the entire area. Joints need to be processed. Waterproofing is securely fixed with a stapler or special adhesive tape.
3. Vapor barrier is laid. Suitable overlapping technology. Then everything is fixed with a stapler.
4. 5 cm of mashed soft clay should be laid on the vapor barrier layer.
5. Expanded clay is already poured onto the clay. How to determine the layer thickness? It can be from 15 cm or more.
6. A screed is laid on the expanded clay - a layer of cement and sand. This will protect the material.

1. There is a foam ceiling tiles- it in itself protects quite well from the cold.
2. Do not stop at the insulation of the ceiling. Walls and floors can also transmit heat.
3. If there are difficulties in warming with your own hands, it is better to contact the masters who will do everything correctly. An unreliably insulated ceiling is practically of no use.
4. Drywall filing requires the use of a galvanized iron profile. Why is this needed? If this is not done, you can soon suffer from a fallen structure.
5. In a wooden house, it is better to insulate the ceiling in the summer months, so that by autumn and cold excess moisture managed to evaporate.

Insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house will protect the room from the inside from heat loss. If the ceiling is not insulated, all the work should be done immediately upon settlement.

The question of how best to insulate the ceiling of the house arises during its construction, when we have already insulated the walls and floors, insulated plastic windows, insulated the loggia and outbuildings to the house (garage, utility rooms). It is also relevant when updating the ceiling insulation system of old houses.

At the beginning of the article, we immediately recall the primitive, but long-used methods and methods for insulating the ceilings of private residential buildings.

Photo - we insulate the ceiling from the inside of the house with our own hands

Until now, thermal insulation with a layer of sawdust is found in the attics of old private houses. Formerly widely used:

• hay;
• onion scales;
• husks from seeds, scattering it over the entire area attic floor;
• the attic floor could be covered with clay beforehand.

Why not a ready-made insulation system with non-high-tech materials?

Until recently, such thermal insulation systems in private homes were periodically damaged by rodents. Later they began to use slag, loose mining of various industries.

Significant heat loss through upper surfaces the premises of the house are explained by the laws of physics. After all, warm air in them rises (the law of conversion). There are big heat loss if the ceiling is poorly insulated. To keep warm in private housing, it is necessary to reduce the thermal conductivity of the ceiling and roof.

Advice! It is better to insulate the ceiling of a private house from the outside. It is easier to install, and most importantly, we remove the dew point from the surfaces of the living space (the farther the vapor barrier is from the surfaces of the living space, the better).

We reduce the thermal conductivity of the ceiling by insulating it with various heat-insulating materials.

What insulation is better for these purposes? Here the answer is only in the desire and capabilities of the owners of the house. In how correctly and competently from the heat offered on the market insulating materials install a ceiling insulation system.

Insulation used to insulate the ceiling from the outside

Types of heaters used for thermal insulation:

• Expanded clay;
• Mineral wool;
• Ecowool (cellulose insulation);

• Polyfoam (penoizol);
• Polyurethane (polyurethane foam).

Requirements for ceiling insulation of a private house

Before finally deciding on the best way to insulate the ceiling of a house, it is necessary to take into account some requirements for the insulation system of the ceiling of a residential building:

1. The insulation in this system must be environmentally friendly, harmless to residents. This requirement is extremely important, given the effect on the ceiling insulation system of warm air from a heated dwelling.
2. Thermal insulation must not support combustion.
3. The insulation system itself should not be very heavy.
4. Low ability to accumulate (absorb) and store moisture. This requirement is especially relevant when the attic roof of a private house is not insulated (for example, metal roofing material laid directly on the boards).

Options for insulating the ceiling of a private house

A very easy to install, light in weight characteristics, do-it-yourself thermal insulation method that meets the above requirements as much as possible is proposed. An important advantage of this option for insulating the ceiling from the outside is the price. The main thing is that this insulation system has successfully passed the test.

Materials used for budget insulation ceiling of a private house outside:

• Polypropylene film (we use Izospan V - 1.4 m or 1.6 m wide).
• To make it easier to mount the film and hold it in place, connecting tapes ("Izospan SL" or "Izospan KL"), to securely adjoin the film to the ceiling surfaces adhesive tape("Izospan ML proff").
• Expanded clay (or mineral wool).
• Wooden blocks for installing logs, horizontally located bars for flooring.
• Screws (self-tapping screws) for fastening the log to the rafters, beams of the attic floor
• Sheathing floor material(for attics) or glassine roofing P - 350 (for non-residential "cold" attics).

Installation instructions:

• We measure the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe attic floor to determine the amount required material(film, loose insulation).

• Based on the size of the floor, the thickness of the expanded claydite layer being poured, we prepare the required number of wooden bars (with a cross section of more than 50 x 50 mm) for the logs. We treat them with antiseptics.
• We clean and clean surfaces from debris and dirt.
• We lay logs. The distance between the bars is 40 cm (we fasten the extreme bars, stepping back from the side beams of the ceiling - 30 - 35 mm). We sew the ends of the bars to the side bars of the attic with screws, preferably with incomplete threads (at least 6 mm in diameter). At the points of contact of the structure wooden frame with the overlap of the attic, we lay pieces of glassine P - 350.

• Between the installed lags we lay out "Izospan V". In places of joining, the film is laid with an overlap (15 - 20 cm).
• We fasten the film together with the connecting tape "Izospan KL" or "Izospan SL".
• Where necessary, for better connection films to the lags and the ceiling surface, we use the Izospan ML proff adhesive tape. This tape allows you to sew the film to any material (concrete, wood) of the ceiling.

• We cut the film with scissors or a cutter. We overlap on wooden logs (3-5 cm is enough). Cut off the excess film.
• With a construction stapler (pistol), we sew "Izospan V" to the side surfaces of wooden logs in increments of 20 - 25 cm.
• We fall asleep between the lags of expanded clay.
• With a shovel, a rule and a wide plastering spatula, we evenly and evenly distribute expanded clay.

• We cover the resulting heat-insulating layer of expanded clay. In the attic, residential attic space, we do this by anyone flooring(grooved or deck board, chipboard boards). In a cold, non-residential attic, we lay glassine P - 350 on top of the heat-insulating layer (we put paths from boards on top of the glassine, for ease of movement around the attic when visiting it).

Advice! Instead of expanded clay, mineral wool slabs can also be used. But, it is advisable to install mineral wool with an insulated roof of the attic.

Expanded clay or mineral wool

What insulation is best for the ceiling? What is still better to use as a low-budget insulation - expanded clay or mineral wool? After all, both materials are sufficient, they are breathable materials, they are fire resistant.

It all depends on the place of installation, ease of delivery insulation material to the place of installation of the insulation system, the nature and completeness of the climatic impact on the insulation. If we consider regarding the solution of the issue, the better it is to insulate the ceiling of a private house, then it is still better to choose expanded clay.

The following factors speak in favor of expanded clay:

• he is not afraid of water;
• its environmental component, it will be harmless to residents (it does not contain synthetics).

The advantages of mineral wool are also obvious:

• easily delivered to the place of insulation works;
• it is quite environmentally friendly (but the performance is worse than that of expanded clay);
• It is also durable and fire resistant.

But mineral wool, unlike expanded clay, has a lower moisture resistance index.

Of course, this indicator of mineral wool can be increased using special impregnations. But, all this only increases the volume and complexity. preparatory work, to the insulation of the ceiling.

The choice is not critical, especially since mineral wool in the attic will be protected from the direct influence of moisture by the roof and flooring. But, given the indicators of environmental friendliness, the ability to absorb moisture, it is better to choose mineral wool. The final decision is up to the residents of the private house.

An effective solution is to replace expanded clay, mineral wool with foam glass crumbs. This bulk thermal insulation material:

• does not burn at all;
• environmentally friendly (when heated, does not emit harmful substances);
• not subject to decay;
• durable;
• retains its volume;
• frost-resistant;
• surpasses expanded clay and mineral wool in its thermophysical properties.

Now there are other high-tech opportunities to insulate surfaces, including floors. modern way. This is the application of penoizol and polyurethane foam to these surfaces.

Some, despite the fact that this is a very expensive undertaking (you need to hire a team with the delivery of special equipment), residents of the private sector use penoizol, polyurethane foam for thermal insulation of the ceiling outside in the attic. They are attracted by the speed of thermal insulation work, its undeniable reliability, durability, advertising of manufacturers of such types of insulation

Important! I do not advise using penoizol and penopropylene, directly spraying and applying it to the surface of the ceiling of the house from the outside.

There are two arguments here:

1. If the attic is cold, not habitable. That such a tight seamless connection of insulation outside the ceiling of a private house is not entirely good, to remove the dew point from the surface of the living space under attic space. Although many argue with this, referring to high performance thermal insulation of the frozen crust from these foam heaters.
2. If the attic is residential (mansard), then the question of ecology arises. Although manufacturers say that information about some kind of harm to humans of their thermal insulation products is groundless and empty, owners of a private house should look into this issue more carefully. Moreover, such a heat-insulating layer will be constantly heated by warm air from the rooms below, and in the attic additionally by heating equipment.

But, it is up to the residents of a private house to decide. Linoleum, if it is not natural, is also harmful to a certain extent. But we meet linoleum in almost every apartment, office.

In accordance with the laws of physics, air rises when heated, so the insulation of the ceiling in the house with cold roof is not a way to get rid of extra money, but a decision dictated by expediency. If you live in a private house, then you have directly encountered the problem of a cold ceiling in the room above which the attic is located. It is usually unheated, and its own thermal insulation is minimal to ensure normal temperature during the cold season. As a result, there is a source of constant heat leakage above the living room.

You can insulate the ceiling in a private house from the inside or outside. Both options have their own advantages and disadvantages, the use of which is dictated by rationality, circumstances, technical details and other significant features.

Insulation of the ceiling from the outside with roll material

Why insulate ceilings in private homes

Laying insulating material that is optimal for a particular building will provide a thermal barrier between the room and the attic. It will prevent the cooling of heated air, its exit through microcracks in concrete or natural pores in a wooden ceiling, raise the overall temperature in the room, protect ceilings and walls from freezing and save a considerable amount that is regularly spent on heating.

Features of ceiling insulation in a wooden house

When working with wooden buildings primary consideration should be given to the final weight of the insulating layer. Excessively high mass increases the likelihood of collapse or cracking in the ceiling.

Some try to insulate the ceiling in a private house with a cold roof with a decrease in the insulation layer, but work standards require a certain value for each region in accordance with temperature and humidity indicators. With a decrease in thickness, the heat-insulating properties decrease, and the meaning of laying the insulation disappears.

Insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house from the inside

List of materials used for insulation

For thermal insulation, installers use materials that are divided into four large groups:

bulk- expanded clay, dry sawdust, ecowool;

rolled- mineral wool and its varieties from other materials;

slab- sheets of compacted mineral wool, expanded polystyrene (polystyrene), cork plates;

sprayed / poured- penoizol.

When choosing insulation for the ceiling in a wooden house, you need to know which one has the best insulating properties. To do this, it is necessary to take into account a number of factors that affect the final result:

external or internal installation;

weather conditions and average annual temperature in a particular area, affecting the thickness of the layer;

need and list additional work;

time spent and project budget.

The combination of these features will indicate the rationality of using one or another type of thermal insulation.

In the photo, a bulk version of the ceiling insulation from the outside - expanded clay thermal insulation

External insulation

In most cases, insulating the ceiling in a house from the outside is a more convenient way to prevent heat from escaping. It allows you to expand the list of used insulating materials, reduce the time spent on work and reduce, in comparison with internal installation, the cost of thermal insulation during insulation in the house with finishing.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies, which offer the service of warming houses. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

The cheapest among all bulk insulator options. Due to the penny cost of the material and minimal additional costs, the total cost of the work is the lowest among those described.

To sawdust there are certain requirements.

A minimum moisture content is required, otherwise mold will begin to form over time. For this, the material is aged in a dry room for about a year before use.

The sawdust is mixed with flame retardants to reduce flammability.

Connection with antiseptic agents, fungicides and slaked lime prevent the appearance of fungus and protect against rodents.

Insulation of the ceiling in the house with sawdust is done in two ways. In the first, they are mixed with dry cement, followed by the addition of a small amount of water. Cement acts as a connecting material. The second method involves dry filling sawdust without adding a connector, but due to the natural shrinkage of the material and the need for regular addition, it is not popular.

Ceiling insulated with sawdust

Expanded clay as a heater

The second most commonly used bulk material for insulation. Among its advantages:

acceptable price;

availability;

thermal insulation properties are above average.

However, the application has a number of limitations:

the own weight of expanded clay does not allow it to be used on thin wooden ceilings; concrete ceilings are desirable.

the material has low moisture resistance, therefore, a vapor barrier is necessarily laid in the first layer.

to ensure high-quality heat preservation, a layer of more than 20 cm thick will be needed (in cold regions of the country it is increased to 50 cm).

Using expanded clay, experts use a mixture of coarse and fine fractions to ensure a high percentage of empty space filling. From above, a layer of material is poured with a cement mortar 5–10 cm thick, which provides protection from moisture and serves as a floor covering.

Ceiling insulation from the outside with expanded clay

Ecowool

Modern house ceiling insulation made from recycled cellulose, with flame retardants added to provide fire resistance and boric acid serving as protection against fungus and harmful microorganisms. The main advantages of the material:

high-quality coverage of the entire floor space, due to the low weight of individual parts, cotton wool is easily blown into all cracks;

the composition does not contain compounds harmful to humans;

low material consumption to ensure reliable thermal insulation.

The disadvantages include:

low resistance to moisture, you will have to spend money on laying a vapor barrier;

hand-made installation without special equipment is impossible or will be of low quality;

ecowool is subject to shrinkage, so it will need to be laid with a margin of about 15%;

if crushed, it loses its thermal insulation qualities, therefore it is necessary to cover the ecowool with a layer of boards to enable movement in the attic.

Advice! Experts do not recommend using the material close to chimneys and other sources of high temperature, despite the addition of flame retardants to the composition. If this is not possible, then it will be necessary to make an additional fence of a fire-resistant coating that reflects heat.

Mineral wool as a heater

Warming the ceiling in a wooden house with mineral wool has several advantages:

low cost of the material;

high laying speed;

good thermal insulation properties.

Not without cons:

cotton wool shrinkage is 15-20%, so experts advise taking the appropriate stock.

the material is not moisture resistant and quickly absorbs water, which immediately increases its thermal conductivity. You will need to lay an additional layer of waterproofing.

mineral wool cannot be crushed, the impermeability of the thermal barrier depends to a large extent on the air contained between the fibers, so you will have to spend money on laying the outer covering so that you can move freely in the attic.

For insulation with mineral wool, workers must install wooden logs. They will allow you to delimit the space into sectors and will become the basis of the future flooring.

In the photo, the process of thermal insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool

Penoizol insulation

Depending on the type of installation, penoizol is sprayed or poured. But in order to use this material, you will need to contact a specialized company, since specific equipment is used during the work, plus, protective suits for workers and professional skills are needed.

The advantages include:

high degree of penetration into all cracks and microcracks;

incombustibility;

environmental safety for humans;

not of interest to rodents;

substance contains a large number of air bubbles, which provide high-quality insulation.

The disadvantages include the high cost and fragility of the material, which does not independently restore its shape in case of mechanical damage.

Video description

Which insulation divides heat better, look at the video:

Advice! When working with penoizol, it is recommended to wait for complete solidification, it has a slight shrinkage, which will have to be replenished in order to prevent the formation of voids.

The process of thermal insulation of the ceiling with foam insulation

Internal insulation

Residential attic, house for several owners, presence in the attic engineering communications and other situations that make external insulation impossible require thermal insulation from the inside of the room. Bulk substances according to obvious reasons are not used.

Video description

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside, see the video:

Sheet, roll or sprayed materials are used. When choosing insulation for the ceiling in a private house, you should pay attention to polystyrene foam boards or compressed mineral wool. They have the best ratio in the price / quality / speed category. Do not forget about penoizol, which will become great option with an increase in budget.

The process of insulating the ceiling from the inside with foam

Thermal insulation of the ceiling from the inside with polystyrene boards

What to choose - external or internal insulation

The choice between these types of work is based on a combination of factors:

in the absence of finishing, they are equal in terms of the degree of thermal insulation;

if the repair of the room is completed, then you will have to remove the ceiling covering, which will increase the cost and time of work;

styling with inside reduces shrinkage of the material, but increases the thickness of the ceiling, reducing the total volume of the room;

at internal insulation ceiling slab is not protected from low temperatures;

external insulation allows the use of a wider range of heat insulators.

Before you insulate the ceiling in a private house, you need to carefully calculate all the pros and cons, only after that you can make an unambiguous decision, which is better to use in your case.

Conclusion

When choosing a certain material for ceiling insulation, it is always better to ask for professional help. Every business has its pitfalls and stumble upon them, relying on own forces It's a waste of time and money. It is better to make repairs once, and get a guaranteed high-quality result - this will save you from extra spending and for many years to come will provide the house with warmth.

Most people try to insulate the walls in a private house as best as possible to avoid heat loss. In fact, 60% of the heat energy goes through the ceiling, because warm air has the ability to rise up and through ceilings goes outside. In addition, in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling is always elevated level humidity, hence mold and fungus in the corners. The insulated ceiling will not only make the house more comfortable, but also protect the property from damage.

Ways to insulate the ceiling

In a private house, ceiling insulation becomes task No. 1. To insulate the ceiling and reduce heat loss, you can use the following methods:

• Insulation of the ceiling from the inside. This is the case if under the roof is not an attic, but an attic. From wooden beams a frame is constructed, which is attached to the ceiling with a puncher and dowels-nails. Inside the frame is filled various heaters, and a vapor barrier is placed between the ceiling and the insulation. Then the insulated ceiling is sheathed with drywall. The disadvantage of this method is the "hiding" of a significant part of the ceiling, as well as the complexity of the work.
• Insulation of the ceiling from the outside. This method is good if there is an attic under the roof. There are also variations depending on the type of insulation.

Foam insulation

Before starting the process of warming, you need to free the attic from excess rubbish, sweep out all the debris, and carry out wet cleaning down to clean concrete. According to the size of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room to be insulated, it is necessary to purchase the appropriate amount of foam not less than 40 mm thick or foam styrene, but it will cost much more. Both materials have low thermal conductivity and high resistance to damage by microorganisms. The entire space of the floor is covered with foam sheets, the joints are glued with mounting foam. A reinforcing mesh is placed on top of the foam and poured screed with a layer of at least 50 mm. This procedure is necessary if the attic is to be used.

Foam Disadvantages:

• questionable refractory properties, added flame retardants are short lived
• exudes formaldehyde
• it has rodents
• arises " the greenhouse effect", the room should be ventilated frequently

Technology for installing foam and penoizol

The effectiveness of thermal insulation when using penoizol is much higher than when installing ready-made foam boards. The plates may not fit snugly against the supporting frame, forming cracks and “cold bridges”. Filling with penoizol saves transportation costs, electricity. Penoizol adheres tightly to the wall due to the resins included in its composition. It dries within 15-20 minutes. The only drawback is that it is impossible to pour penoizol on your own. Whole procedure should be carried out by experts.

To install foam boards you will need:

1. Styrofoam
2. drywall sheets
3. metal profile or wooden slats
4. a hammer
5. polyurethane foam
6. waterproofing material
7. screwdriver
8. waterproofing membrane glassine, which is made of roofing paper and impregnated with bitumen. It prevents the penetration of moisture into the thermal insulation layers.
9. fasteners - screws and self-tapping screws, sometimes nails
10. hacksaw

There are two ways to mount foam boards: frame and adhesive. The preparatory process for both methods is the same. The length and width of the area are carefully measured. These indicators are multiplied, and the area is obtained. Based on it, the appropriate number of foam boards with a minimum thickness of 5 cm is purchased. Then surface is processed, to which the plates will be glued. Old whitewash, plaster is removed, dust and dirt are washed off. Can even be surface treated antiseptic. Apply a coat of primer to make the surface even. If possible, replace with a newer existing electrical system.

At adhesive method has its own nuances. In order for the foam to bond well with the surface of the ceiling, it is necessary follow temperature regime not lower than 50C and not higher than 250C . As an adhesive, you can use ordinary tile adhesive. They can also process the surface to which the plates will be attached. After it dries, you can continue installation work. Glue is applied to the foam sheet and the wall, held for 2-3 minutes and the foam is pressed to the surface.

You can also use dowels with large caps. In the same way, the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe insulated surface is pasted over. After the entire ceiling is insulated, all joints and cracks are carefully coated with glue or mounting foam to enhance tightness. When the glue or foam is dry, you can reinforce the ceiling. To do this, the foam sheets are applied special solution where the fiberglass mesh is immersed. Another layer of solution is applied on top. It is necessary to wait until the solution is completely dry, and only then continue the installation work.

At wireframe method mounting foam plastic on a previously cleaned and primed surface, wooden or metal slats so that cells are obtained. Cell size depends on the size of the foam boards. For example, if the plates are 1/1 m in size, then the cells must be made 50/50 cm. Accordingly, during installation, the foam sheet will need to be cut into 4 equal squares. In case of use aluminum profile, metal rails are attached to the ceiling using a perforator and screws.

A foam sheet is inserted into the grooves obtained, smeared on the side on all sides. liquid nails» for reliable bonding of boards to the supporting structure. A whole sheet of foam plastic is inserted into the aluminum rails and reinforced with self-tapping screws. Further also reinforcement is being carried out: a special mortar is applied, a reinforced mesh is placed and a pouring layer is applied again. Everything, the insulated ceiling is ready. If desired, drywall can be sewn over whole foam boards.

Penoizol as a heater for the ceiling

Penoizol is expanded foam in liquid form. For the installation of penoizol, special equipment must be used. At a cost, it is not very expensive, and it is easy for them to fill hard-to-reach places. Penoizol is fireproof, hygroscopic, has low thermal conductivity. It does not contain rodents, it is not affected by microorganisms. Penoizol can be operated at temperatures from -600C to +800C. The material has high soundproofing properties. The environmental friendliness and safety of penoizol has been confirmed by numerous experiments.

Penoizol installation technology

Is being done wooden or metal cell frame, the cells of which are filled with penoizol. It expands and fills the entire space. Gradually, it polymerizes and becomes an excellent insulation. When using it, it is not necessary to use either a steam or a waterproofing agent.

Warm ceiling with mineral wool

This material is divided into glass wool, ceramic, slag and stone wool. The types of glass wool are modern materials for insulation Rocklight, Technoblock, Technovent, Technolight, Technoruf, Technofas, etc. The raw material for the production of the material is basalt, limestone, diabase or dolomite. The highest quality mineral wool is obtained from rocks.

When using mineral wool, it is necessary to wear work clothes, goggles and a respirator, because the particles of the material irritate the skin. After laying, mineral wool becomes safe for humans. Before using it, the surface must be cleaned of debris and contaminants. to pure concrete. A frame for the future floor is made of wooden beams. Measurements are taken, logs are mounted, a vapor barrier is laid, glassine is better. Sheets of mineral wool are placed on top of it, but this should not be done too tightly, cotton cannot be squeezed. To make the floor even warmer, you can put mineral wool in two layers, with the top layer overlapping the joints of the bottom one. Next put flooring, which is attached to a wooden frame.

Disadvantages:

• the material must not be removed and compacted, because it may lose its thermal insulation properties
• mineral wool must be carefully protected from moisture
• even a small gap can reduce the heat capacity of the ceiling
• along with mineral wool, another moisture-proof material is also used, which increases the cost and complicates the process
• needs to be changed every 10-15 years

Mineral wool installation technology

First you need to accurately calculate how much insulation, hydro and vapor barrier materials need to be purchased. Remember that when working with glass wool, dust is released that irritates the skin and mucous membranes of the eyes. Therefore, it is necessary purchase protective clothing and goggles, respirator, gloves. It must also be turned off while working with mineral wool ventilation system to keep dust from getting in. For mounting mineral wool you will need the following:

1. insulation
2. wooden slats (width 150 mm, thickness 30 mm) or galvanized profile
3. perforator
4. self-tapping screws
5. big scissors
6. protective equipment
7. vapor barrier
8. metal staples
9. roulette

If the house is wooden, then as load-bearing structure are chosen wooden slats. On the wooden floor a waterproofing agent is placed with an overlap of 10 cm. A crate is attached from above. The distance between the rails is 50-60 cm. Mineral wool is unpacked immediately before installation. The insulation is cut into pieces in width corresponding to the distance between the slats plus 2 cm for a snug fit.

Between waterproofing and insulation is done a gap of 1-2 cm for natural circulation air. Mineral wool is placed tightly enough so that wrinkles and crevices do not form. Then, a vapor barrier with an overlap of 10 cm is attached from above, perpendicular to the rafters, and attached to the wooden slats with a stapler. All seams are carefully fastened with a mounting film. This will enhance the tightness of the structure.

It is a cellulose based material, absolutely harmless to humans. 81% ecowool consists of recycled cellulose, a product of paper processing, 12% of antiseptic, 7% of flame retardants. The fibers contain lingin, which gives the structure its stickiness. The material is resilient and elastic enough not to shrink, and at the same time has a capillary structure thanks to which the ceiling "breathes". Ecowool protects the surface from the spread of fungus, and rodents are not found in it. Upon contact with metal structures corrosion does not occur, and in case of fire, the material smoldering but not burning.

• during installation, ecowool emits a lot of dust from boric acid
• installation can only be carried out by specialists using special equipment
• ecowool should not be used near a source of fire or high temperatures(bath), otherwise ecowool starts to smolder

Ecowool installation technology

Manual way ecowool installations complicated and tedious. The material installed by an unskilled specialist reduces its effectiveness by 20-30%. There are two ways of mechanical installation of ecowool: dry and wet. The dry method is convenient for attic insulation. The use of special membrane films such as Tyvek makes it possible to pump ecowool not only into horizontal, but also into inclined and vertical surfaces. For this on special equipment fill the ecowool cavity of the building frame under air pressure.

The wet mounting method arose due to the ability of ecowool, when wetted with water, to stick to any surface due to the special substance lignin included in its composition. Wet ecowool groans viscous and sticky, and with the help of a pneumatic installation under air pressure, the ecowool is sprayed and adheres tightly to the surface. After drying, a uniform and homogeneous layer is formed, which has soundproofing ability.

If it is not possible to do surface cladding, then apply wet adhesive method of application ecowool. At this method ecowool is treated not with water, but with an adhesive solution, which significantly enhances the adhesive ability of the material.

Insulation with ecowool should be carried out by specialists, then the material will 100% realize all its advantages.

How to insulate the ceiling with sawdust

This method obsolete, but is still used for insulation of ceilings.

Disadvantages:

• shrink, they need to be sprinkled
• fire hazardous

Sawdust insulation installation technology

First you need to replace the wiring, insulate it in metal pipes, and also insulate the chimney. To use sawdust as a heater you will need:

1. sawdust
2. lime
3. cement
4. blue vitriol

We prepare sawdust for laying. It is difficult for one person to cope, you need an assistant. In a large spacious barrel, 10 buckets of sawdust, 12 buckets of lime and 1 bucket of cement are mixed. Everything is well mixed until a homogeneous mass is obtained.

Water is poured into a 10 liter watering can, poured a few tablespoons of copper sulfate as an antiseptic. Slowly, the contents of the watering can are poured into a barrel with sawdust mixture. If, with a clenched fist, the mixture stops emitting moisture, then it is ready for use.

Glassine is spread along the entire perimeter of the ceiling and fastened with adhesive tape or galvanized clamps. On the surface of parchment sawdust mixture is laid out evenly. You don't need to push it too hard. Level the surface and let it dry for at least 2 weeks. Everything, the heater is ready. Only walking on it is not recommended, so the room should not be used.

Clay ceiling insulation

Clay is considered environmentally friendly, fire resistant and inexpensive roof insulation. To use sawdust and clay as a heater, you will need:

• sawdust
• lime
• cement
• blue vitriol

Clay insulation installation technology

From beams, bars and boards, treated with an antiseptic, a special overlap is made (the description was made earlier), where clay will be poured. The bottom of the ceiling is lined with polyethylene or PVC film, which is attached to the beams and boards with a stapler. In a concrete mixer or a large barrel, 5-6 buckets of clay (which you can dig up in your garden) diluted until completely dissolved with water. Then sawdust is added and mixed until such a state that the mixture is not too wet or very dense. The resulting mixture is laid out on the floors between the beams with a layer of 5-10 cm. It is necessary to wait for the clay to dry completely. It might last More than a month. To speed up the process, it is necessary to provide good ventilation attic. On a clay surface small cracks may appear but they rub off easily.

Disadvantages:

• under the clay, the tree can become moldy and rot
• with the wrong ratio of clay and sawdust, thermal conductivity increases and heat is lost

Expanded clay for ceiling insulation

Expanded clay is a lightweight refractory material made from fired clay of low-melting grades. Glassine is placed on the floor and reinforcing mesh is laid, expanded clay is poured over all this. It is heat and sound insulating, resistant to moisture, rodents are not found in it. Expanded clay performs the function of a thermal cushion, which is poured from above with a screed. For installation of expanded clay insulation you will need the following:

1. expanded clay
2. waterproofer
3. vapor barrier
4. adhesive tape, aluminum tape
5. stapler
6. staples

Installation technology of expanded clay insulation

This technology is similar to the technology of laying other heaters such as clay or sawdust. First, it is cleaned of contaminants and old whitewash the surface on which expanded clay will be poured. A cellular structure is made from wooden beams over the entire surface. Then, with an overlap of 10 cm, they creep wide strips of waterproofing. Joints are glued with adhesive tape. After fixing, a reinforcing mesh is placed on top of the waterproofing agent and a layer of expanded clay is poured. Its surface is leveled. A vapor barrier sheet is laid over the expanded clay layer and attached to wooden slats stapler or metal staples. A vapor barrier is placed on top of the expanded clay layer and beams, which is also fixed to wooden structure stapler and staples.

Disadvantages:

• material is heavy
• air "walks" between the granules
• requires subsequent pouring or vapor barrier
• Requires special equipment for quality work

Foil insulation

The tree itself is a regulator of heat and humidity, so foil insulation is best used in a room with a concrete floor. When using it, you can exclude the use of a vapor barrier. The foil itself good conductor heat. Foil expanded polystyrene is produced in sheets of 60/120 cm and has a thickness of 2-10 cm.

Sheets have stepped locks to eliminate "cold bridges". Foil polyethylene foam can be one-sided and two-sided. The material also has a thickness of 2-10 cm, and is available in rolls 1-1.2 m wide and 25-30 m long and looks like a carpet. Sometimes a layer of mineral wool is covered with foil polyethylene. Thus, thermal insulation is enhanced, and the release of carcinogens from mineral wool is also reduced. Foil glass wool is produced in the form of mats, supplemented reinforced mesh. Typically, foil insulation is used to insulate the ceiling and walls of a bath or steam room.

Foil insulation installation technology

According to the method described above, a cellular structure is made from wooden beams or metal planks. Cut to size with scissors required size foil insulation and fixed with construction stapler. The foil side should “look” at the room, and not at the floor. Sometimes manufacturers produce foil insulation with already applied to the surface a layer of glue.

Sheets of foil insulation are placed end to end, and the joints are glued with a special aluminum adhesive tape. Thus, a surface is obtained that perfectly reflects heat rays. If you plan to use drywall or lining on top of the foil insulation, then you need to do air gap 1-2.5 cm between the insulation and final finishing. Otherwise foil will heat up and warp the building material. Everything, the insulation is ready. Simply and easily!

Flaw- a tree under a foil insulation with loose laying can ban and rot.