Technology of wall cladding with ceramic tiles and preparation. Correct wall cladding with ceramic tiles Working with ceramic tiles on the wall

Every owner of a house or apartment sooner or later is faced with the question of how to tile the walls in the bathroom or kitchen. There are many options. For example, for surfaces with high humidity, both are suitable. But ceramic tiles are practical and available material, not afraid of temperature changes and suitable for use in high humidity. Therefore, wall cladding ceramic tiles(bathroom, kitchen) for many years holds a leading position among room decoration options. But in order for the coating to serve for a long time, it must be selected and installed correctly. Let's consider the nuances of preparing walls for cladding, as well as the technology and secrets of laying ceramic tiles.

Tile selection

Having an idea of ​​what kind of repairs you want to do, having decided on color scheme, you can go get the material. Ceramic tiles come in several types:

• Private. Standard tiles with a corrugated surface on one side and a glazed decorative surface on the other. It is available in several sizes (calibers) and is used to create the main part of the coating.
• Shaped. This material is different from the usual complex shapes, allowing to veneer Not flat surface and neatly trim the corners.
• Floor-standing. Floor tiles with increased strength and anti-slip properties. Often used as bathroom or kitchen flooring.
• Mosaic. The mosaic consists of small fragments (with a side of 5-7 cm) from which the overall picture is formed. Laying such tiles requires a creative approach and takes a lot of time and effort.

All of the listed types have several strength classes. This concept consists of the ability of the tile to withstand physical impact and its resistance to abrasion. Exterior tiles have the highest level of durability, followed by floor tiles and then wall tiles.

Another important indicator– moisture resistance. For the bathroom, you should purchase material with increased resistance to moisture, this will prevent the formation of fungus and extend the service life of the coating. For the kitchen, the requirements for this indicator are more flexible.

If you plan to clad external walls with ceramic tiles, pay attention to the frost resistance of the material. This property allows the tiles not to crack when the temperature changes. Tile suitable for exterior finishing buildings can be identified by the snowflake drawn on the packaging.

To harmoniously decorate the entire room, it is better to purchase ready-made kits, which include tiles for walls and floors, made in the same style, as well as borders and additional decorative elements. When purchasing a large volume of tiles in one tone, check the color match on site, since due to the specifics of tile production, it happens that a material declared to be the same has a different shade.

The question often arises: is it worth taking tiles with a reserve and, if so, how much? Manufacturers usually pack material with a 5% margin for possible damage, so there is no need to take tiles beyond this. In order not to make a mistake with the quantity, first calculate the need for the material (in a special program or manually) and buy it, taking into account the fact that all cut tiles are counted as whole. It is still better to purchase ceramic tiles in large stores or markets for repairs, since in this case there is a high probability that the missing tiles of the same shade can be purchased in addition.

Advice! When purchasing tiles, carefully check the information indicated on the box - information about the manufacturer, name, grade, size of the material, its color and quantity.

Alignment of walls

Tiles can only be laid on a previously prepared surface. At the same time special attention pay attention to deviations from the plane, that is, various flaws that disrupt the evenness of the walls. To identify irregularities, walls are checked using a plumb line (a cord with a weight at the end) as follows:

• Nails are driven into the wall under the ceiling every 1.5 m.
• A plumb line is tied to the nails one by one and the distance between it and the wall is measured with a tape measure or the evenness is determined visually.

This method allows you to verify verticality, and horizontality is more convenient to measure bubble level or a perfectly straight slate. If you are using a lath, place it against the wall and see what kind of gap is formed between it and the plane. If the gap width is more than 2 mm, the surface must be leveled.

If minor defects are found, they are eliminated by plastering. When veneering wooden surface, before applying the composition, fill the walls with fine metal mesh. It is not attached directly to the wood, but on pre-fixed bars 2.5 cm thick and 3 cm wide, and a layer of roofing material is also placed under the mesh. Apply on top of the mesh cement mixture with the addition of cellulose fibers, and on top - a layer of standard plaster (not thinner than 1.5 cm). This significantly reduces the area of ​​the room, but the tiles laid on such a surface last firmly and for a long time.

Preparing the wall surface

Even if the walls are fairly smooth, they still need preparation, especially for painted surfaces. First you need to remove the old coating. It is more convenient to perform this work with a hammer drill with a spatula-shaped attachment; an angle grinder with a brush is also suitable. If the paint does not adhere well and peels off, it can be removed using a scraper or spatula.

After cleaning, the walls are sanded grinder and remove dust. The preparation is completed by applying a deep penetration primer mixture. After it has dried, you can begin installation.

Laying ceramic tiles on the wall

Another task that needs to be dealt with before installing the tiles is to think about the arrangement of the rows. Preference should be given to the option in which the number of prunings will be minimal. Counting the occurrence of whole tiles in horizontal rows begins from the top, so that the trimmings fall on the first row from the floor. This way they will attract less attention.

Vertical rows are counted from any of the corners. If you cannot do without trimming, then for symmetry it is advisable to place two identical trimmings of tiles on both sides. When calculating the rows, be sure to take into account the tile joints, each of which is usually 2-3 mm wide (depending on the size of the crosses used). Having chosen the optimal position of the rows, they proceed to installing the tiles.

Technology of wall cladding with ceramic tiles

First of all, attach it to the wall metal profile along the line of the beginning of the second row. The tile will rest on it, since laying is done from the bottom up, and the first row from the floor, as already mentioned, is laid out from the scraps last.

If you use a cement-sand mixture to fix the tiles, then the tiles are pre-soaked in water. This will prevent the material from drawing moisture from the solution. When laying on tile adhesive, such preparation is not required.

When mixing the glue, follow the instructions on the package. To make the mixture homogeneous, it is better to use a drill with a mixing attachment. The consistency of the adhesive solution should resemble thick sour cream, not spread and not be too hard.

The prepared composition is applied and spread with a notched trowel, covering at a time a surface corresponding to an area of ​​3-4 tiles. Laying begins from the starting row, gradually moving upward. Plastic crosses are inserted between the tiles to regulate the size of the seams.

Pay attention! The crosspieces are removed after finishing the cladding, but before the glue has completely dried.

Having finished laying out one row, check the correctness of laying with a building level. If protruding tiles are found, they are carefully deepened by tapping rubber mallet. The tiles lying too deeply are removed, more glue is applied and installed back. The order of work is repeated for each row until the tiling of the walls is completed.

In areas where sockets, pipes or other objects are located, the tiles are cut to the desired shape with a tile cutter or drill with a diamond bit. Read about how and with what to cut ceramic tiles correctly in a separate section. The bottom row is laid out last. If the work cannot be completed in one day, before the break, the lined surface is cleaned of excess mortar and the crosses are removed.

After installation, sometimes defects are discovered, one of them is incomplete filling and lack of joining of seams. A deviation of up to 2 mm is corrected with a grout mixture, but if the discrepancy is greater, the tiles are removed and laid again.

Grouting or jointing of tile joints

The installation of the tiles is completed by finishing the seams. It is performed a day after finishing the cladding, when the adhesive composition is completely dry. The grout protects the seams from moisture penetration, fungal growth and performs decorative function, hiding the color of the glue. With a properly selected grout mixture (fugue), ceramic wall tiles not only last longer, but also look more harmonious.

Before grouting, the tile joints are cleaned of excess glue with a thin spatula or awl and wiped with a damp sponge. The composition (usually polymer-cement) is diluted with water in the proportions indicated on the packaging and applied with a wide rubber spatula. To give the seams a neat shape, trimming the cable with round or special tool for jointing.

The composition is left to dry for 2 hours, after which the stains remaining on the surface of the material are removed with a sponge or rag soaked in water. It is recommended to treat the finished coating with a special polish.

Attention! If you already have tiled surfaces in your home, you can update the old coating by simply re-grouting the seams. This will not only improve appearance coating, but will also help get rid of fungus, which can become hazardous to health.

As you can see, tiling walls with ceramic tiles, although it requires care and a certain skill, is within the power of anyone. Happy renovation!

Laying tiles with adhesive mortar

In rooms with high humidity, it is most practical to apply ceramic tiles to the walls, which will protect them from moisture evaporation and water getting on their surface. We know these rooms well, so tiling the walls with ceramic tiles in the bathroom and kitchen is exactly the option where protection from excessive moisture is required. At first glance, the task seems complicated and requires the involvement of master tilers, who of course need to pay a lot, but if the whole process is broken down, most apartment owners can handle this task themselves. Let's call these shelves:

• Selection of ceramic tiles.
• Tools necessary for tiling walls with ceramic tiles.
• Preparatory activities before tiling the walls.
• The main points for determining the quality of work.
• Preparing walls for facing with ceramic tiles.
• Marking walls for cladding.
• Preparation of adhesive for ceramic tiles.
• Laying ceramic tiles on walls.

As you can see, the work plan has been drawn up, and if you adhere to it clearly and slowly, you can do without specialists in this matter, saving a certain amount of money.

So, let's go.

Choosing ceramic tiles

You need to be careful when choosing ceramic tiles

When buying ceramic tiles in a store or at the construction market, do not be lazy to pay attention to the appearance of the material, since the quality of all subsequent work will depend on this. The tiles must be strictly same size, have right angles, rounded edges and a perfectly flat surface everywhere. If you plan to work with glazed tiles, check that the glaze is applied evenly and that there are no sagging or white edges.

Also check all the numbers printed on the packaging, which indicate the color, size, and roughness of the ceramic tiles. It is quite clear that everything that is indicated on the outside must coincide with the internal content. According to European standards, the color of the code indicates the grade of the material: grade 1 is indicated by a red code, grade 2 by a blue code.

Tools necessary for tiling walls with ceramic tiles

When tiling the walls with ceramic tiles in the bathroom, we will consider: what tools will be needed during the process to carry out work in the bathroom.

Tools needed for tiling walls

• The first thing we need is a two-meter aluminum ruler, 70 mm wide and 25 mm thick. It is called the “rule” and with its help we will lay the tiles in even and orderly rows.
• A metal square (at right angles) with sides of 100x100cm will definitely be needed to control the provision of right angles during laying.
• A straight hammer will also come in handy for a variety of jobs such as chipping off excess tile fragments, tapping them, and also where needed for driving nails and pins.
• A water level for determining the horizontalness of the masonry line over long distances and a simple building level for the same purposes, but in certain areas of the masonry. If anyone does not know what a water level is, contact the seller - he will tell you everything, especially since it is not difficult to understand.
• A plumb line, which is a weight attached to a cord, will definitely be used. Using a plumb line, strictly vertical lines are set. This also includes beating cords, which are needed for beating vertical and horizontal lines. These cords are a regular cord with chalk dye applied to it. By pulling it back and releasing it sharply, like the string of a bow, a perfectly even chalk line is left on the surface.
• Nippers for chopping small pieces of tiles, whetstone for smoothing the ends of the cut tiles, a wooden hammer (mallet) for carefully placing the tiles on the glue, a rubber spatula for sealing the seams between the tiles with a special sealant.
• A special metal spatula for combing out glue. The spatula should be of small thickness so that the glue does not stick to it.
• Locksmith's tape measure - it's clear what it's for.
• A paint brush to moisten the surface and a trowel to apply glue to the surface of the wall and further level it.
• 1To cut tiles, you can use an ordinary turning tool sharpened at an angle of 60º. You can cut tiles using and diamond wheel. If you're lucky, you can borrow somewhere a professional glass cutter, which is used by craftsmen.
• 1Purchase the Nth number of joint crosses in the store for laying between the tiles so that the thickness of the seams is uniform throughout.

This is, perhaps, the main tool that you will need for tiling the walls in the bathroom with ceramic tiles. Of course, you will need a few more things, for example, rags, protective gloves, etc., but this is all a trifle.

Preparatory activities before tiling the walls

All work requires some kind of preparatory process and ours is no exception. In order for everything to go smoothly, you need to do the following:

• Sort ceramic tiles by size, color and shade. You need to choose one as a template perfect tile with right angles and flat edges and use it to calibrate all the others, paying attention to cracks, depressions and bulges. It is best to check the color of the tiles in daylight.
• After sorting, bring the tiles into the room where they will be laid and stack them in columns of 50-60 pieces each. In addition, the rejected material should be folded separately, as it may be useful for cladding in places where the defects are invisible.
• If there are new plumbing structures in the room in the form of a toilet, washbasin, bathtub, they should be covered with plastic or some other film. It is best to place a sheet of plywood about 10 mm thick on the bathtub to prevent debris and glue residue from getting into it.
• If you plan to lay out the gap between the bathtub and the wall using a special border, then in this case the bathtub must be securely fastened so that subsequently between the bathtub and facing tiles There were no cracks that could form during shrinkage. It is better to make low tides from whole tiles so that the seams are not directly under the shower stream.

The main points for determining the quality of work

When laying tiles, you must adhere to the following rules:

a) the tiles must be laid strictly vertically and be in the same plane;
b) the glue should fill the entire space under the tile, avoiding voids where all sorts of bugs and spiders could then appear;
c) the seams must be the same size and located on the same line, for which use fugue crosses;
d) watch for the coincidence of the pattern or design in general composition, otherwise it will be difficult to correct errors later;
e) it is best to seal the seams with Finnish sealant, which, unlike Turkish sealant, does not turn yellow.

Preparing walls for tiling with ceramic tiles

The walls in the bathroom may have concrete base, wooden or covered with plasterboard sheets. For each category, the preparation will be unique.

Preparation of concrete walls

Before facing, concrete walls must have a perfectly smooth plastered surface. You also need to pay attention to the verticality of the surface by checking it with a plumb line. If there is no verticality, additional plastering work. Should not be on the wall greasy spots. If any, they are removed with a 3% solution hydrochloric acid or 5% soda ash solution.

On plaster surfaces it is necessary to make notches using a hatchet or chisel at a distance of 2-3 mm from each other.

If you plan to lay the tiles using glue, the walls must be primed, having previously cleaned them of dust and dirt. As a primer, you can use Knauf primer, which penetrates deep into the pores, binds dust grains, forming a protective film with high adhesion.

Preparing wooden walls

Preparing walls for cladding

WITH wooden walls when preparing for cladding, to put it mildly, you need to tinker. First of all, you need to nail wooden slats 25-30 mm wide and about 2-2.5 mm thick onto the surface, having previously treated them with an antiseptic composition that will protect them from rotting. A roofing material is pulled over the “plank” to ensure good waterproofing and a metal mesh with cells is fixed on top of it small size(you can also use a plastic plaster mesh). The mesh is needed for good adhesion of the plaster mortar, which will now serve as the basis for laying the tiles.

Plasterboard walls

Glues to drywall plaster mesh, then applied plaster mixture. After the mixture has hardened, cladding can be done.

Marking walls for cladding

Marking the walls should begin by drawing strictly vertical and horizontal lines passing through the center of the wall. From this center it will be possible to determine the quantity required tiles, get an idea of ​​what the drawing will look like, if there is one. And since it is impossible to lay out the tiles on the wall, transfer this entire process to the floor, taking into account the gaps between the tiles. It is convenient to do the preliminary layout using an even straight edge, the length of which is equal to the size of the wall with a slight minus. Using this ruler, you can count the number of tiles in a row, as well as determine the size of a partial tile at the end of the laying.

Experience shows that you need to start laying from the corner that is most in the field of view and continue in the opposite side, thus ensuring that the entire tile is laid in a visible place. This tip is only suitable for homogeneous tiles.

Carefully and slowly you need to correctly mark the horizontal and vertical lines

Next, after you have figured out the number of tiles and patterns, you need to draw a basic horizontal line on the wall, as close to the floor as possible, using a ruler and level. When drawing a line, you must also take into account the design intent, which ultimately determines the height of the line from the floor. You can also draw a baseline horizontal line under
ceiling, above the curb or above the level of the bath itself. However, if complete tiles can be laid on the wall according to calculations, it is better to start laying from the floor. If the floor has not yet been laid, the first row is laid out along a strip fixed along the base horizontal line.

It should be noted that the base line should be marked along the entire perimeter of the wall at the same distance from the floor. The slats must be prepared in advance with nails hammered into them every 30 cm, and the nail on the other side should not protrude too much, so that the slats can then be easily removed.

When covering walls where plumbing fixtures have not yet been installed, do not forget to install beacons in places where plumbing fixtures will be installed. If the bathtub is already installed and secured, the first row is laid out along the edge of the bathtub using the rule (aluminum slats), taking into account the size of the ebb.

Preparing adhesive for ceramic tiles

Nowadays, tiles on cement-sand mortar It’s rare for anyone to fix it anymore. Modern materials in the form of adhesive mortar, sealant for filling joints between tiles, insulating materials, primers make it possible to produce high-quality cladding walls with ceramic tiles in any room and on any surface. Moreover, the mixtures can be sold both in a dry composition and fully suitable for use. Dry mixtures and adhesives are used for work indoors and outdoors, but only adhesive compositions are used to repair walls in old buildings.

For greater efficiency, various plasticizers and emulsions are added to dry mixtures, which significantly improve the quality of the adhesive with slight deformation of fresh concrete. The action of plasticizers improves the resistance of the adhesive to various deformations and loads, so they can be used when laying tiles on walkways.

Preparation of adhesive mixture for wall cladding

It is very important to follow the instructions for use of the finished glue or adhesive mixture, which are indicated on the package. If, for example, there is an excess of water, the tiles will slide off the wall; if there is not enough water, the laying will be difficult. To prevent lumps from forming, you need to fall asleep mixture into water and mix it thoroughly. Mixing must be done at a temperature not lower than +5 ºС and not higher than + 30 ºС using protective equipment, since when mixed, an alkaline reaction occurs, splashes from which can get into the eyes and skin.

During operation, the adhesive mixture must be stirred periodically and, if necessary, water must be added to it. To lay tiles in problem areas, to increase the strength of the adhesive, you can add PVA glue to it, but only in water, at the rate of 0.5 liters of PVA per 10 liters of the finished solution.

Some people make the mistake of adding alabaster to the glue solution. This cannot be done, as alabaster worsens the properties adhesive composition, making it defenseless against moisture.

Laying ceramic tiles on walls

It's time to start directly facing works. Here you immediately need to take into account that if you have already laid, the first row is laid, pressing against the floor tiles, and if there are no tiles or other covering on the floor, then they begin laying the walls from the second row, and the first will be laid after laying the tiles on the floor. As noted earlier, the laying begins, oriented along the base horizontal line or leaning on a horizontal batten.

Tile beacons

Laying begins by gluing lighthouse tiles in the corners, installed strictly along vertical and horizontal lines, after which you can safely lay further tiles, inserting jointed crosses into the seams to a depth equal to half the thickness of the tile.

The adhesive is applied using a notched trowel onto small area, since it hardens quickly in order to have time to lay a certain number of tiles. You can check the suitability of the glue by touching it with your fingers - if it still sticks, you can continue laying. Don't forget about the fugue crosses. After laying each m² of work, the work must be checked for the verticality and horizontality of the masonry, so as not to move further to the side. It must be remembered that within another 20 - 30 minutes the tile can be adjusted, adjusting its location. Crosspieces can be removed after 1 hour after installation.

As you work, monitor the thickness of the adhesive solution, keeping it the same everywhere. You also need to constantly moisten the bottom rows of tiles with water using a damp cloth. You can start sealing the joints with a grout mixture after making sure that the tiles are firmly attached to the wall.

All work on installing soap dishes, hooks, shelves, etc. is carried out after the glue has completely dried. This also applies to holes for pipes, sockets, and switches.

The technology is the same for most bases. An adhesive composition is applied to the plane, leveled with a “comb”, the tiles are installed in a row or with a ledge, crosses are attached in the corners, individual modules are adjusted in rows until the seams completely match. Grouting is done after the hardened mortar has gained strength.

Options for laying tiles: A – diagonally, B – Seam to seam, C – Running.

Technologies have nuances depending on the location of tiles/porcelain tiles in the rows:

• “ligation” – displacement of vertical seams by the same/different distance in each row;
• “traditional method” - vertical and horizontal seams coincide;
• “diagonal” - tiles are inclined in rows at 45˚ to the floor level.

The technology of wall cladding by bandaging ensures fewer cuts in solid modules; the diagonal cladding method is maximum flow tiles used to mask significant construction defects:

• divergence/non-parallelism of walls;
• lack of horizontal floor covering;
• "strewn" corners.

In addition, this technology provides original design, so it is used quite often. There are tiles different formats(from mosaics to large-format stained glass), thickness, texture, colors.

Preparation for facing work

Before you start tiling the walls, you need to perform a number of activities:

• choose ceramics - on the domestic building materials market there are modifications: majolica (double firing, colored base, low moisture resistance), earthenware (glaze, double firing), monoporosa (single firing after glazing), bicotura (glaze is applied between 2 firings, high porosity ), there are rectified models that are laid without seams;
• calculate the amount of material - add 5% to the wall area when laying in the traditional way, by bandaging, 15% - when laying diagonally;
• prepare the walls - existing coatings are removed or strengthened; when gluing tiles on top of them, it is necessary to treat the surfaces with Concrete Contact, which increases the surface roughness;
• purchase tools - you will need a level, a plumb line, a tile cutter, spatulas, a drill with a mixer, a cord, a plaster “beat”.

To increase originality, shaped elements are often used:

• plinths - rectangles made of ceramics, mounted instead of a plinth to disguise the bottom seam;
• borders - elements rectangular shape, separating the tiles different colors(the bottom of the wall is usually darker than the top), mounted at the level of the bathtub (in the corresponding room), countertops (in the kitchen), at a height of 0.7-1.2 m;
• panel - one large-format element or several small-format tiles (a pattern or their arbitrary arrangement relative to each other);
• bas-reliefs are a narrow analogue of a plinth of high artistic value.

Ceramic tiles can be used to zone the space of a room, visually change the size and height of the room.

Ceramics are glued either to dry mixtures or to mastics, and the first method is used in 90% of cases due to the simplicity, high durability of the solution, and the increased time for adjusting the elements in the rows. When choosing to decorate walls with ceramic tiles, hire specialists or apply the coating yourself.

The first option is preferable, since the seams are perfectly smooth, there are no defects or waste of material. The craftsmen provide a guarantee for the work in accordance with the service life of the cladding used, and have necessary tool. When laying tiles, it is recommended that the home craftsman use the self-leveling SVP system, consisting of wedges and clamps that ensure high flatness of the surfaces of the mounted modules.

In addition, professionals advise contacting designers, whose services include project visualization, which allows you to see changes in the interior of the room, adjust the color, texture, location of borders, panels. When hiring a team of tilers, this service is most often provided free of charge, as well as drawing up an estimate that allows you to adjust the repair budget.

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Technology of wall tiling

When finishing vertical planes or individual areas with ceramic tiles, the most popular cladding technology is:

• “dry layout” - the tiles are laid along the wall without mortar with crosses, along the entire height (also with crosses), which allows you to determine the size of the last trimmed module; its size should be more than half the tile;
• installation of beacons - the tiles are glued to a quick-drying compound (alabaster, quick-hardening glue) at the corners of the wall (2 pieces at the bottom, at the top);
• mooring tension - a cord is stretched between the lighthouses and attached to dowels installed near the lighthouses;
• facing walls with ceramic tiles - work begins from the middle or from the corner, filling the plane with a ledge, in a row;
• installation of cut tiles - carried out in parallel with finishing or after installation of all solid tiles;
• grouting the seams is the final stage of decorating the wall planes, after which the seams can be processed clear varnish to increase resource, water resistance.

If, when laying out, the last cut module turns out to be less than half the tile in height, 2 rows are cut - the bottom and the top. In this case, work begins from the second row, attaching a rail to the wall (maintaining a horizontal level) at a height of 2/3 of the height of the tile. The cladding of vertical surfaces (walls, part of a plane) is most often done from the bottom up, although there are dry mixtures on the market that guarantee no slipping, allowing you to start work from the top. The bottom row is filled with cut tiles last after the hardened mortar has gained strength.

Finishing from the middle to the left/right guarantees symmetry of the coating, inserts, and panels. After installing the elements of the first row, professionals prefer to continue cladding with a ledge, increasing the number of vertical and horizontal rows from the corner. This is due to the possibility of applying the adhesive material to a large surface near the master’s workplace. The cladding process is tripled. When installing tiles near the lighthouses, the latter are carefully removed, the back surface is cleaned of mortar and alabaster.

The first ceramic tile is set according to the level (horizontal, vertical), the rest are mounted along the cord, and the vertical and horizontal are periodically checked. When working, 2 spatulas are used: a layer of adhesive solution is applied with a conventional tool, and the pastel is leveled with a comb. If plastic dry mixtures with filler are used, there is no need to tap the elements with a rubber mallet or the handle of a spatula. A light press with the palm of your hand, a slight shift of the tile to the right/left or up/down is enough.

The flatness of adjacent modules in vertical and horizontal rows is checked using a rule or a long level. The crosses are removed from the cladding after the solution has hardened (small recess) or are masked with grout mixtures at the last stage.

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Grouting the joints at the last stage

There are multi-colored grouts on the market, the choice of which depends on the design features:

• grout to match the color of the tile - allows you to get a monolithic plane on which design elements (panels, borders) stand out clearly;
• grout is darker than tiles - provides high-quality camouflage of tile defects, hides small unevenness in seams, and has high artistic value;
• grout is lighter than the tiles - serves to highlight each module, is possible only with perfectly even seams.

The close contact of the back surface of the tile with the mortar provides an increased coating life. When in contact with hot water, the tiles expand evenly, and there is no cracking of the finishing material. Diagonal technology cladding is the most labor-intensive, since the number of cuts increases and the marking of the plane on which the tiles are mounted becomes more complicated. The method is used for defects in walls (blocked corners, discrepancies in walls), floors (lack of a horizontal level of the floor covering).

Mastic gluing technology includes pre-treatment the back side of the tile, the surface of the wall with PVA solution. In this case, the glue sets quickly, so it is applied to small areas (for one element). Grouts increase the strength of the coating, additionally decorate the surface, and provide joints with protection from moisture penetration.

Ceramic tiling of vertical surfaces is usually done after installation of the floor covering. Although a layer of mortar can mask significant uneven surfaces with ceramic tiles, the material is not designed for this. The best option is to level the vertical surfaces with putty/plaster and install the ceramics on a thin layer of glue.

What is wall tiling and how to do it? This good question, since this process is the final stage of repair.

This is what determines how well the repair is done overall.

For this reason, experts advise approaching the choice of finishing material with all responsibility with which you plan to cladding the walls.

Until recently, very few materials were used when cladding the walls of a particular room, and it was not difficult for people to choose one of the options. Now the construction market is saturated, and sometimes even professionals rack their brains for a long time over what to choose.

For this reason, I would like to list those finishing materials that are very popular when finishing:

• Ceramic tiles.
• Plastic panels.
• Decorative panels.

But these are not all materials, but only the most common ones. Yes, do not forget that there is wallpaper and paint, but it is worth noting that these materials are not suitable for cladding in a bathroom or toilet.

If we talk about each type of wall tiling, we note that each has its own advantages and disadvantages. So, recently they have begun to use plasterboard quite often. This is an excellent material with high performance and physical and technical characteristics.

But, like every material, it has some disadvantages. The main one is that this material is usually installed on, which means that part of it will be stolen usable space premises, albeit small.

Cladding using panels is also a fairly common procedure. At the moment, the variety of finishing panels is unimaginably great. Exactly plastic panels are at the peak of popularity. Due to its water-repellent feature, this material began to be used in rooms with high level humidity.

Plates decorative look MDF panels are almost in no way inferior to plastic panels, and sometimes even surpass them, for example, in cost and environmental friendliness. Both of these options have excellent characteristics, but economic people especially liked the durability and practicality. A simple damp cloth will be enough to easily clean the panels from dirt.

You can describe for a long time how good this or that material for cladding is, but from time immemorial wood was considered the best finishing material for each room. At correct installation wood you can create a stylish, elegant and presentable look for the room, which will be warm and cozy. Even if the house itself is not made of wood, cladding the room with plywood or clapboard will help create a unique and unsurpassed style.

According to experts, decorative plaster is the most beautiful view material for finishing, since with its help you can create a finish that will not be inferior in beauty to finishing walls with stone. But I would like to immediately note that this option is the most expensive of all.

Ceramic tiles

Currently facing interior walls ceramic tiles are one of the most common and sought-after types of finishing. This is great and reliable material, which is also environmentally friendly, is not afraid of humidity, temperature changes and heavy mechanical loads.

For this reason, tiles are often used in the bathroom, as well as in toilets, basins, showers and kitchens. But floor tiles can be seen on the balcony, in the hallway, in the corridor.

Step-by-step instructions for tiling walls with ceramic tiles

As a rule, this process is carried out from above on the prepared wall surface. It doesn’t matter what the wall is built from - brick, reinforced concrete or blocks. If the wall is brick, then plastering work is carried out before laying the tiles. It should be noted that in this case the plaster is applied not in 3 layers, as usual, but only in 2 - spray and. But in no case do we apply a covering in the form of a finishing layer under the tiles, since ceramics in themselves are a facing material with a leveling function.

The process of tiling the interior walls should begin from the floor. If your floor is not ready yet, then install slats along the entire perimeter of the walls being finished, and they will act as a starting point for installation. If there are no problems, then installation of slats is not required.

Installation of ceramic tiles is possible according to two schemes. The first requires the use of beacons, but the second does not. According to the first scheme, you should work when the room itself is larger, but this is not useful in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen.

Ceramic tiles should be installed from the bottom corner if you work according to the second scheme. But first you need to hit one vertical line. To do this in top corner room, screw in a self-tapping screw and hang a plumb line on it, along which a line will be drawn and will act as a figurative beacon. You can start laying the first row.

Please note that already laid tiles need to be checked for evenness in planes. To do this, use a building level. When checking the general state of evenness of a row, the check is carried out using a rule with a level.

Pay attention to consumption too. There is no need to mix a lot of mixture at once, since laying tiles is a fairly long process, and during this time the solution can easily lose its unique qualities and dry out. When using the solution on adhesive based It should be applied not only to the tiles, but also to the wall. With a cement-type mortar, everything is much simpler - it only needs to be applied to the tiles.

Experts advise laying tiles over half an area of ​​m2, that is, first laying tiles in 1 row for a length of 0.5 m, and then the second row using the same algorithm, and all the rest. If the design project describes laying tiles using a seam method, then for this you need to use plastic crosses. When the work is completed, these crosses can be taken out, and the seams are rubbed with mastic.

Although both schemes are similar to each other, there are also differences: laying tiles along beacons requires experience and knowledge from the master, and therefore is more difficult to perform. For example, the installation of beacons is carried out only according to a single scheme. This means that you need to hang a beacon on each wall, and make sure that they are in all planes. Next, we pull the thread between them on the driven pins. The thread will show you the level at which you will do the styling. By the way, this cord is called a mooring line.

Tiling the walls begins from the middle of the room, and not from the corner. When the bottom row reaches the beacons, they will need to be removed. Next, the pins are transferred to the second row, the mooring is tightened again and the process continues.

As you can see, the installation process is still complex, and it also involves many materials and some specific tools that require special skills.

Conclusion

Wall cladding can be done in different ways. In practice, all technologies for laying any facing material have been developed for a long time. Options, schemes and methods have long been known and described to everyone. So for those who plan to carry out cladding, you should find the option that will be easier, more convenient and more economical for you.

Covering interior walls with ceramic tiles is one of the most common ways to decorate rooms with high humidity. Ceramics is durable, resistant to all kinds of influences, it does not absorb moisture and odors, and with wide range its shapes, colors and textures cannot be matched by any type of cladding. Ceramic tiles are not a cheap material, but they fully cope with the decorative, sanitary, hygienic and protective functions. Today’s material is about the advantages of ceramics, the nuances of choosing it and the technology for decorating walls with its help.

Advantages of ceramic tile cladding

When choosing a material, you need to make sure that it meets the requirements of the operating conditions in the room where the repairs are to be made.

The advantages of tiles include the following:

• versatility of the material - ceramics can be used in any room;
• ceramics is an environmentally friendly, safe material;
• the cladding is not afraid of temperature changes, so it can be used in unheated rooms;
• ceramics are not afraid of high humidity and direct drops of water, so they are used in swimming pools, baths, and showers;
• ceramic tiles form a strong, durable coating on the wall due to high adhesion to the base;
• If you follow the technology, you can do the cladding yourself;
• On sale you can find ceramic tiles of different shapes and sizes. Some collections are presented with original products in the form of rhombuses or polygons. In addition, ceramics are distinguished by a wide range of colors, designs and patterns, as well as imitations of the surface of other materials;
• ceramics are durable and fireproof, which is why they are used for wall cladding in the kitchen. The material does not absorb dirt and odors and is easy to clean;
• This is a hygienic material, so it is used for wall cladding in medical institutions and laboratories.

Types of material

There are several types of ceramic tiles for interior work. This allows you to choose a material, quality and performance properties that correspond to the conditions of a particular room.

Table 1. Types of material

Illustration	Peculiarities
	Manufactured by dry pressing. The surface of the tile is covered with an opaque glaze. Due to the use of double firing technology, the material is quite durable and wear-resistant. Can be used as cladding in premises for any purpose.
	Distinctive feature – white. Made from expensive high-quality clay using double-firing technology. Used as an interior finishing material.
	Material with a porous structure without a glazed coating. Has high strength and wear resistance. Features a rich assortment of shades.
	Produced using the technology of sintering clay raw materials. The finished product has high mechanical resistance. Can be used as a material external cladding. The color and range is limited to brown and yellow shades.
	The raw material used is not kaolin clay. The finished product does not have a glazed coating. Manufactured by pressing. The structure is homogeneous, so the policy has a high mechanical strength. Can be used in areas with high loads.

The size of the tiles can be small 5 x 5 cm, medium 10 x 10 cm, 10 x 15 cm and large when one side reaches 40 cm.

Separate category material - mosaic. Small elements are glued to the backing. This allows for quick installation. Mosaic can be used as a main decoration or for decoration accent wall, niches, columns - the flexible substrate allows you to veneer structures of any shape.

The more joints between the tiles, the less resistant the surface covered with it is to moisture. A joint is a potential risk. The tile joints must be carefully monitored, cleaned and updated if necessary.

Modern grouting materials are highly resistant to moisture and mechanical stress, therefore they maintain a neat appearance for a long time and reliably protect the base from moisture.

Suitable substrates for ceramic tiles

In terms of the type of base that can be used under ceramic tiles, the material is universal. Ceramics can be mounted on DSP, concrete, cement screed, drywall and old and tiled cladding. The bases themselves are divided into those that are specially prepared for laying policies and those that are universal. Most surfaces require preliminary preparation.

Cement board

Cement slabs form a base ready for tiling. Of all sheet materials This is the most expensive option, but its high strength makes this base the most suitable for ceramic cladding. DSP can be laid on the floor and mounted on walls in any premises, including those with high humidity, where the base material is protected with waterproofing.

Fiberglass gypsum boards

Fiberglass gypsum boards are not the usual GVL or GKLV. This material is specifically intended as a base for ceramic cladding. The load that such a base can withstand is somewhat lower than for a CBPB due to lower hardness and strength - this is worth taking into account. The peculiarity of the structure of the slab is the presence of a core impregnated with a water-repellent composition and a moisture-resistant coating. Therefore, this stove is used in rooms with high humidity. The fiberglass in the board further strengthens it. To make the base moisture resistant, do not forget about high-quality sealing joints with silicone sealant.

GKLV

Moisture-resistant drywall is made in green or blue color. This is a universal base for painting, paneling and wallpapering. Despite the name, gypsum plasterboard is somewhat vulnerable to moisture, and therefore requires waterproofing protection when used in the bathroom.

GVL

Conventional drywall is used as a base for ceramic tiles in rooms with dry and moderately humid microclimates. In case of high humidity, it is necessary to perform high-quality waterproofing.

Pay attention! Ceramic policy is a rather heavy material that has an impact on the base. So, plasterboard sheet a thickness of 12 to 15 mm will not be sufficient. The walls are covered with a double layer of plasterboard, 12 mm thick each.

Concrete

Concrete base is one of the universal types designed for ceramic tiles. The installation process does not cause difficulties if the base is even.

Important! The concrete should not contain film-forming substances that will reduce the level of adhesion between the tile adhesive and the base.

Cement screed

This type of base is a reliable and durable option for tiles. In this case, the screed itself is made on any basis. The screed is made when it is necessary to level the floor and walls, as well as to create a slope in the shower. Screed may be required when forming the base irregular shape, for example a round column. The disadvantage of this version of the base device is that the screed takes a long time to dry.

Existing ceramic cladding

Laying a new ceramic coating directly on top of an existing old one is possible on cement mortar. This will save on costs and operating time. The main condition is that the old cladding must be firmly fixed along the entire wall, while the vertical surface must be perfectly flat. It is worth remembering that as a result of such installation the thickness of the coating will increase. To new policy firmly attached to such a base, the old one is treated with sandpaper, thereby ensuring better adhesion to the cement mortar.

Features of choosing ceramic tiles

Ceramics is best option finishing for combined bathrooms, toilets and bathrooms. When choosing it, they take into account not only decorativeness and the ability to create the optical effect of increasing space, but also the operational properties of the material.

Pay attention! First, choose the tile, and then choose the plumbing fixtures and accessories.

Ceramic tiles are divided into wall and floor tiles. The second is larger in thickness and size. Often ceramics in a store are offered as a ready-made collection with elements for floors and walls. In this case, the combination of textures and shades is thought out by the designers, the collection is made in the same style, and therefore looks organic and natural.

When selecting materials yourself, it is recommended to give preference to classic shades, which have a pleasant shade and are versatile in combination with other materials. These include pink, light blue, beige color, as well as tiles with a pattern imitating marble or stone.

How many tiles will you need?

Tile is not a cheap material, so you should immediately decide on its quantity. When making calculations, several nuances are taken into account. It is recommended to purchase tiles with a small margin, taking into account the likelihood of defects during cutting. In this case, the material must be from the same batch. Otherwise, shade differences may occur.

When measuring further under the cladding, it is necessary to pay attention to the geometric parameters of the room, namely the evenness of the walls and corners.

To scale, wall patterns are drilled on a sheet of paper. On each of them, mark the layout of the tile of the selected size, drill out decorative inserts, borders, and the thickness of the tile seam. Take into account the installation method - “staggered” or “seam to seam”. The layout is done so that the elements cut in the corners are not too narrow. When the calculations are completed, another 10% is added to the resulting value - for defects, pruning and inaccuracies in the calculations.