Chain link fence installation. How to make a chain-link fence - expert advice. Sectional chain link fence

• they are durable;
• do not block sunlight to plants;
• simply mounted;
• are inexpensive;
• when carefully installed, they look aesthetically pleasing;
• visually increase the area, since the fence is light and transparent.

Grid types

chain link

Of course, there is almost no point in talking about its protective functions. Nevertheless, such a fence protects against the penetration of small animals. In order for it to cope with this task as best as possible, it is worth using a fine-mesh chain-link: the size of the square “holes” in it is from 25 mm. True, the fence will come out heavy and by no means budgetary. Most often, to facilitate the design, grids with larger cells are used - from 50 mm.

Woven netting is made from:

• soft iron wire;
• galvanized wire;
• polymer-coated wires;
• plastic;
• of stainless steel.

Uncoated wire is cheap, but it rusts quickly, so it is usually used as a temporary fence. To extend its life, you can paint, but this will have to be done regularly.

Galvanized material or braided PVC casing lasts 15 years or more. The latter option is especially good for regions with an environment that is aggressive for unprotected metal: for example, with acid precipitation or near the sea. In addition, the PVC coated mesh looks more beautiful than the ordinary mesh, as it happens different colors- white, yellow, green, blue, burgundy, red.

Fences from plastic nets mastering is extremely rare, although it does happen. More often, non-capital animal pens are built from this material on the site or used for zoning a garden.

Photo: Instagram north.western.packing.center

Welded mesh

It is stronger and stiffer than a chain-link, requires fewer supports to install, looks more stylish, but also costs more.

Welded mesh can also be not treated with anything, but it can be protected from corrosion: galvanized, or with a polymer coating, or two in one - galvanized plus polymer. Sold in rolls and individual sections.

From welded mesh make popular in recent times 3D fences. They consist of metal rods, on which several layers of polymer, nanoceramics, and zinc are sequentially applied to protect against damage and rust. Manufacturers promise that such fences will last about 60 years.

How to make a mesh fence yourself

First of all, you need to decide how to install the fence. There are two options:

1. stretch the rolled mesh around the perimeter of the site;
2. assemble a fence from separate sections.

The second method is more expensive, requires more effort, but it is more reliable and more aesthetic than the first. Let's consider each option in more detail.

Tension fence

First of all, you need to mark the site with wooden pegs and a long string, and then dig holes for the poles. For poles you can take metal pipes with a diameter of 6-8 cm and set at the same distance.

Pits are made with a garden drill, their diameter is not much larger than the diameter of the pipe itself. The depth depends on the density of the soil, on average - within a meter, and more is allowed.

Pipes before installation are cleaned of stains, rust, hooks are welded to them for attaching the grid and painted. Then a small layer of sand or gravel is poured at the bottom of the pit, the pillars are lowered, leveled and poured with concrete. In order for the supports to stand evenly while the concrete hardens, they are fixed with spacers.

If the ground is dense, you can simply drive the posts into the ground, being careful not to damage them. But on sandy soil, the fence will quickly “leave” to the side.

When the first stage is ready, you can start stretching the mesh. The chain-link roll is not unwound, but is held vertically and hooked to the hooks or screwed to the pipes with wire in several places.

But the welded roll mesh, on the contrary, is easier to unwind first, lean against the poles and then fix it.

Since welded mesh is a little more difficult to install, it is better not to work with polymer-coated material yourself: help is needed, as the polymer is easily damaged, and then the mesh will begin to rust.

To prevent grass from entangling the fence, it is recommended to leave a gap of 10–15 cm between the mesh and the ground, and so that it does not sag, attach a wire or a thin pipe along the upper edge.

Sectional chain link fence

Racks for it are mounted in the same way as described above. But instead of hooks, steel plates are welded to them.

Metal corners are welded into a square or rectangle, the size of which equal to the distance between the pillars. On the inside of the corners around their entire perimeter, reinforcement bars must be provided: they will be needed to attach the mesh. The surface of the frame is polished. The mesh is cut to the size of the section, rods are threaded into the extreme rows of cells, they are bent and welded to the corner. And the finished section is welded to steel plates on supports.

Sectional fence made of welded mesh

The installation technology is similar. Only for 3D fences, support elements are included and have holes for fixing the mesh. It is better to fix the 3D fence to the posts with U-shaped clamps using a screwdriver. Theoretically, you can use staples, but this is undesirable: they damage protective layer.

fence decor

Volumetric 3D fences themselves look stylish and do not need decoration. But the masters will gladly “upgrade” the chain-link. For example, weave patterns from wire or ribbons.

If you do not want the site to be viewed from the street, the fence can be decorated with a photo grid. These are reinforced PVC lattice canvases, on which manufacturers apply drawings with a pixelated effect to make the image look as naturalistic as possible. Attach photogrids with a stapler. They are resistant to bad weather and sunlight, but they cannot survive cleaning with abrasive products.

A simple and inexpensive way to mark the boundaries of ownership of the territory is to install a chain-link fence. Of course, today there are many alternative materials that have a more presentable appearance, for example,. But they are more expensive and time-consuming to install, more suitable for the capital outdoor fencing of a country house.

And if you need to protect the building site, summer cottage, to separate the economic zone from the residential area, or to make an aviary for animals?

Is it reasonable to spend a lot of money and a lot of time, to attract specialists, if you can make a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands in one day, and the result will be achieved? The following describes the manufacturing technology, calculation and installation in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Benefits of a chain link fence

• saving financial resources. The price of a chain-link fence is almost the lowest of all options fence. Only a wattle fence can compete in price, but otherwise it will lose;

• light weight. There is no need for a massive frame or foundation pouring;

• strength and resistance to environmental factors: moisture, temperature extremes, ultraviolet, fire, mechanical damage;

• light transmission. A chain-link fence does not create obstacles for the penetration of sunlight, which means that there will be no shaded areas on the site and the plants will feel comfortable in any part of it;

• undemanding maintenance and no need for repairs;

• ability to withstand a significant load. For example, wooden fence it is easier to break through than to break a metal network;

• availability. You can buy chain-link mesh in any hardware store or in the market

• wide range, allows you to choose the one that better fit for specific needs;

• high installation speed. You can install a chain-link fence with two people in one day.

Of course, the mesh fence is not without drawbacks, including: unattractive appearance, "transparency" of the fence and the need for painting. Some of the shortcomings are easily leveled if you know how to choose the right chain-link mesh.

Types of mesh chain-link for the fence - which is better

When choosing which chain-link mesh to use for fencing, you need to take into account its main parameters:

1. Production material:

• low-carbon steel (mesh is more ductile);
• stainless steel (rigid mesh).

2. Outer coating:

• ungalvanized chain link. Wire thickness - 1.2-5 mm, mesh size 50-100 mm. Such a mesh is prone to rust, and needs to be painted;

• galvanized chain link. Wire thickness - 1.6-5 mm, mesh size 50-100 mm. Does not need protection, has a long service life;

• plasticized (metal with a polymer coating). Wire thickness - 2.5-2.8 mm, mesh size 25-50 mm. More presentable quality coating has a long service life.

Advice. Ask the seller for a certificate that confirms the quality of the coating. A simple PVC coating without additives that guarantee its resistance to ultraviolet and frost will soon become unusable.

3. Netting cell dimensions

The smaller the cells, the smaller the living creatures will crawl through the grid. This is true when building a fence, for example, for chickens or ducklings. But, such a mesh will be heavier, it will take more metal to make it, which means it will be more expensive. For a fence, the best option is a grid with a cell of 50x50.

After the grid is selected, it's time to move on to the main work, namely, to create a sketch of the fence, calculate materials and install the fence (tension and sectional).

How to make a chain-link fence with your own hands

Stage 1. Chain link fence drawing

A drawing or sketch is a working graphic document that contains the following data:

• the location of the fence installation, taking into account access roads, trees, houses, other buildings on the site, etc.;

• relief features. If the site has a slope or elevation changes, the diagram will help determine which is more appropriate: level the soil or make a cascading fence;

• fence length. Since the width is determined by the width of the grid, there is no need to consider the length;

• place of installation of supporting pillars and props.

Types of chain-link fences by frame type

When designing a fence, a decision is also made as to which chain-link fence frame will be used. Due to the fact that there are three ways to attach the mesh, there are three types of frame.

• tension fence- easy to mount. Price tension fence from a grid the chain-link - is minimum. In order to build it, you need to install supports and stretch the grid. The design flaw is that the mesh will sag over time;

• stretch fence with broach. A broach in the form of a strong wire serves as a support supporting the mesh, preventing it from sagging;

• sectional fence. Requires more expenses for the purchase of a corner for the frame and longer time for the manufacture of sections. Although you can buy ready-made sections on the market. Naturally, the price of a sectional fence made of chain-link mesh is the highest, but the design is more reliable and practical.

Note. With uneven terrain on the site, it is better to give preference to a fence from sections, this will allow you to put a fence from a chain-link mesh, taking into account elevation changes, without leveling the ground plane.

The correct drawing of a chain-link fence contains a description of the fence with key dimensions and main nodes, incl. arrangement of corners.

Stage 2. Material for building a fence: selection and calculation

Installing a chain-link fence will take only one or two days, if you prepare all the materials and tools necessary for the job in advance.

Construction Materials:

1. Rabitz. Its requirements are described above.
2. Tension wire (when installing a tension fence). The function is to support the mesh, provide additional attachment points and eliminate the possibility of sagging. Galvanized wire with a thickness of 2 mm is suitable for the fence. (from 130 rubles/m.p.).

   As a stronger alternative to wire, reinforcement is used that is welded between posts or a thin pipe. These materials exclude mesh theft.

3. Support posts for a chain-link fence.
4. Profile corners (for the manufacture of a sectional fence). With the help of corners, a frame of individual sections is formed, which are installed on support pillars. The average price of a corner 40x40x3 is 97 rubles / m.p.
5. Thin wire or other fasteners for attaching the mesh.
6. Cement and sand (for concreting supporting pillars).
7. Protective compositions for processing wood or metal.

From the tool you will need: a tape measure, a rope for marking the site, a shovel or a drill.

What poles can be used for a chain-link fence

metal poles

A hollow profile of a round or square section. The versatility of a metal pole is undeniable. The iron support does not need to be processed during installation (only priming and painting), any kind of fasteners are welded to the metal.
For a chain-link fence, a round post with a diameter of 60 mm is suitable. ( average price with a metal thickness of 2 mm - 159 rubles / m.p.) or rectangular, with a section of 40x60 (price with a wall thickness of 2 mm - 163 rubles / m.p.).

wooden poles

Although this is the simplest solution, wooden poles have the disadvantage of being susceptible to weather and microbial activity. In addition, dense wood (oak, elm) is not cheap. You can use more popular species - pine, birch. With proper processing and constant care, they will last 20-25 years. However, in practice, wooden chain-link fence posts are used for temporary structures. For a fence, a pole with a size of 100x100 mm (70 rubles / m.p.) is suitable.

brick pillars

Strong and massive supports are too expensive for a mesh fence, therefore, they are not used in practice. In addition, under them it is necessary to fill the foundation.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

concrete pillars

Relatively inexpensive material. You can make it yourself or buy ready-made ( approximate price for one support 80x80x2000 - 350 rubles / piece). It is relevant if the store is in the immediate vicinity of the installation site, otherwise the cost of transport will significantly increase the cost of a fence from a chain-link mesh. At the same time, the attachment of the grid to concrete pillar has its own specifics.

Asbestos-cement pipes

They are characterized by relative cheapness (the price of a pipe is 100x3000 - 300 rubles), strength and resistance to decay. But stretching the mesh is inconvenient, requiring the use of clamps or clamps. In addition, the pipes are hollow, they just need to be closed with plugs, otherwise the frozen water will simply break the pipe from the inside.

Stage 3. Calculation of the fence from the chain-link mesh

1. Number of m.p. (linear meters) of the grid depends on the size of the plot. Usually the chain-link is sold in rolls of 10 m. The price of a non-galvanized mesh chain-link 50x50x2 mm - from 48 rubles / sq.m. The price of a polymer mesh 50x50x2.2 mm - from 221 rubles / sq.m.
2. The length of the wire for stretching is equal to two lengths of the fence (or three if the wire is installed in the middle). With a fence height of 1500 mm, 2-3 pieces are enough.
3. The number of posts depends on the perimeter of the site (total length of the fence) and is calculated based on the fact that the maximum distance between adjacent posts is 2,500 mm. This rule is the same for stretch fences and sectional fences.
4. The length of the profile corner is equal to the perimeter of the frame multiplied by the number of sections.
5. Wire for fastening or other fasteners depending on the method of fastening.

Stage 4. Installing a chain-link fence with your own hands

The sequence of work.

1. Soil surface preparation

The installation site of the fence does not need serious cleaning. It is enough to remove debris and eliminate interfering plants and shrubs. At the same time, plants that will grow near the grid (and not near the supporting post) can be left if their development does not lead to deformation of the grid.

2. Pouring the foundation for a chain-link fence

Do you need a foundation for a chain-link fence? There are fences installed on the foundation. fill concrete base can only be explained by the installation of a grid using heavy metal sections. Which in most cases is unjustified.

3. Installation of posts for a chain-link fence

Fence post preparation

• Treatment wooden poles - the timber should be treated with an antiseptic (a solution that prevents wood decay) according to the level of penetration into the soil. The SENEZH product line has proven itself well (price from 90 rubles/l).

• Processing of metal poles- iron supports must be derusted and coated with a corrosion inhibitor (prevention of rust development). Conferum products are in demand, which supplies several types of primers.

How deep should chain-link fence posts be buried?

Despite the minimum net windage, the chain-link is heavy, with a length of 2.5 meters (between the supports) and a height of 1.5 m, the fence can tilt or fall. Therefore, support pillars are installed to a depth of up to 1 meter, under certain conditions (fence height, type of soil on the site), the minimum depth of the pit is 50-80 cm.

Ways to install fence posts

Installation on hard ground (clay)

Installation is possible in two ways:

• Firstly, by driving or screwing the supports to the desired depth. This method has a significant drawback, which manifests itself in the fact that it is difficult to maintain the installation level when clogging and it is easy to deform the top of the clogged pipe. Therefore, it must be covered with plywood to avoid deformation.

• Secondly, by drilling / digging a hole for it, followed by pouring concrete. In this case, the installation depth of the support is chosen taking into account the level of soil freezing. However, some masters argue that this is not necessary.

Installation on loose and heaving soils

The technology is more time-consuming, here the masters also distinguish two installation options:

• First, install the support 20 cm below the freezing level of the soil. Then the heaving of the soil will not squeeze out the pipe.

• Secondly, replace the soil around the support. To do this, you need to make a hole of a larger diameter (twice the diameter of the pipe) and replace the soil in this place with crushed stone, at a height of 40 cm to the soil surface, the column is concreted. This method creates drainage, which takes on the heaving of the soil and levels it. In this case, the column will definitely not lead.

Advice. Hand drilling, especially when in large numbers holes for posts - a very time-consuming task. It is better to find / rent / buy a motor drill, with which guide holes of 50-60 cm are made, the remaining 40-50 cm of the pipe (pillar) are clogged with a sledgehammer.

How to install chain link fence posts

Installing posts for a chain-link fence is no different from arranging other types of fences. Installation order:

• corner posts are installed first. When tensioned, they are subjected to the greatest load, so it is advisable to reinforce them with spacers (oblique supports). The purpose of the struts is to prevent the tilt of the support. As an option, you can put more powerful pillars (thick-walled) in the corners;

• poles are installed at the break of the fence (at the corners of the fence, at the corners);

• a rope is stretched between the already installed pillars, along which, first of all, supports for gates and gates are mounted;

• settles down entry group( , ). Please note that the entrance group of the chain-link fence is always made in the form of a section, reinforced with additional jumpers;

• after that, ordinary pillars are installed. It is advisable to make the distance between them the same. This rule is mandatory when installing a sectional fence.

Note. Hollow metal pipes are closed with plugs to prevent water from getting inside and rust.

4. Guide wire for stretching the chain-link mesh

The task of the wire (cable) is to ensure a strong tension of the mesh between the posts. The necessary tension is provided by such methods of fastening the chain-link:

• tensioner;
• lanyard;
• hook with a long thread;
• staples, clamps, spans and clamps only keep the wire from sagging on intermediate posts. They are not used as tensioners.

The order of stretching the chain-link: one end of the net is tied to the corner support post, and the other is stretched. If the length of the fence is too long, intermediate fasteners are installed. Their function is to support the wire.

Note. Some users advise passing the guide wire through the grid cells. But this option is only suitable when installing a small fence, because stretching the wire along the entire length, and then installing the mesh on supports is a difficult and pointless task.

5. Fastening the chain-link mesh to the posts

• install on a stretched tension wire;
• fasten to the armature;
• install in a section and secure in separate sections.

How to stretch the mesh between the pillars of the supports when building a tension fence

A roll of chain-link mesh is installed vertically near the corner post (fastening to metal poles). In this case, the folded edges of the mesh should be oriented upwards. This reduces the risk of injury from the sharp ends of the wire.

Advice. If a non-galvanized chain-link mesh is installed, then the craftsmen recommend raising it above the ground by 100-150 mm.

The grid is fixed in several places on the support. Then, gradually unwinding, the mesh is pulled and at the same time attached to the upper horizontal jumper (wire or reinforcement).

When the first roll is over, the mesh is pulled over the bottom jumper. In this case, it is important to unravel all the tangled spirals of the grid.

After that, the second roll is screwed to the first roll (together), and the second roll is unwound with tension.

Note. If the work is carried out with an assistant, then the connection (bundle of rolls) can be performed on a canopy. If on your own, then you need to connect the pieces when the mesh is not completely stretched, and its edge can be stretched along the length on the ground. Sometimes tying is done by using a wooden bridge to which the edges of both rolls are attached.

After installing the chain-link mesh along the entire length of the fence, the mesh is fixed on the middle jumper.

When pulling the wire, special attention should be paid to the corners. Here you need to be extremely careful to avoid skewing the mesh web.

How to stretch the mesh between the pillars of the supports when building a sectional fence

First, let's look at how to make sections for a fence from a chain-link mesh

• from metal corner you need to make a frame. Frame parameters: length is equal to the length of the support pipe minus 100-150 mm; the width is equal to the distance between adjacent supports;

• the corner is dissolved into blanks with the help of a grinder;

• blanks are welded into a frame;

• Next, we work with the grid. From the roll of the chain-link is unwound right size and separated by twisting the wire;

• a reinforcing bar is inserted into all four sides of the grid. The rod allows you to stretch the mesh to the edge of the corner;

• the rod is welded to the edges of the frame inside the corner. Thus, the chain-link is fastened to the corner.

There is another option, which involves welding on the inside of the corner of metal pins (hooks) 3 mm thick. Then the pins are bent inward with pliers, and a mesh is pulled over them. After the entire mesh is stretched, you need to weld the edges of the hooks to make a loop. This eliminates the possibility of the grid slipping.

After the frame is ready, we proceed to its installation. To attach to profile pipe separate section, you need to weld a metal plate on the support and weld the section to it.

It should be noted that it is very difficult for a beginner without experience to make sections for a fence from a chain-link mesh. The difficulties are related to the fact that:

• it is problematic to make sections of the same size;

• it is difficult to install a mesh segment tightly, without sagging;

• the need to perform welding work;

• the complexity of the installation of fence sections.

Decorative ornament of a chain-link fence

The mesh fence does not have a bright design and attractiveness, but if desired, it will result in a nice and solid fencing for the site.

Mesh Fence Decor Ideas

• openwork weaving. It is carried out with a thin wire on a grid with large cells. A simple pattern can be done with your own hands;

• decorative gardening. Planting weaving or climbing plants along a mesh fence will create a hedge around the site. Alternatively, you can attach hanging flower pots, as in the photo on the right;

• in order not to wait until the greenery grows and braids the fence, the grid can be decorated with decorative wire flowers;

• creative design. With a little imagination, you can create original and fun decorations for a chain-link fence.

Do-it-yourself chain-link fence - video

The cost of a chain-link fence

The total costs for the construction of a chain-link fence are determined taking into account the materials used and their quantity. For example, the cost of the material was indicated as they were discussed. The cost per meter is easy to calculate, knowing the consumption of each material and the length of the fence.

The price of a chain-link fence for work with installation for 1 r.m. shown in the table

Thus, a chain-link fence is a cost-effective and prefabricated type of fence that you can do yourself.

If you want to protect your summer cottage quickly and inexpensively, perfect option- chain-link fence. The material itself has many positive properties, in particular flexibility, which allows you to make rounded turns. Regarding durability, some types serve 4-5 years, others - 30 or more.

Installation is carried out in several ways - you can simply manually pull it between the supports or make separate sections using welding. Pillars use a variety of - wooden, metal, brick. The choice of design depends on its purpose. If everything is done thoughtfully, step by step, the work goes easily.

Chain-link mesh - features of different types

For all products, black low-carbon wire with a diameter of 1–6.5 mm is used, intertwined with each other. Cells have a strict square shape or rhombic with angles of 60 °, sizes from 2.5 to 100 millimeters. The thickness of the material, the parameters of the clearance affect the scope. The main purpose is the creation of fences, but it is also used in construction, cages for breeding birds and animals.

Individual manufacturers subject raw materials pretreatment, But it is not required condition.Depending on this, three types of chain-link are distinguished:

1. 1. From ordinary wire without protection, which leads to the rapid appearance of corrosion, which reduces the life of the mesh to 4–5 years, after which dismantling is required. Accordingly, this is the most cheap material of all. Mostly used temporarily with the expectation of a replacement in the future. Painting will prolong the life, but it should be applied immediately after installation, and then repeated at least every three years.
2. 2. Galvanized mesh is more expensive, but it also lasts much longer due to the protective layer. The best option in the price-quality ratio, therefore it deservedly enjoys the greatest popularity.
3. 3. Relatively recently, a plasticized chain-link appeared; polymer paint was initially applied to its base made of metal wire. She is not afraid of precipitation, more beautiful than her predecessors, has different colors. Mostly green, but there are products with burgundy, black, light shades.

Progressing steadily on the market Alternative option- mesh gitter. It is made from high-quality steel rods with a diameter of 3-6 mm, caught together by spot welding, which gives reliability and durability - up to 50 years. Appearance resembles a lattice, which is why it got its name.

Individual elements are bent - stiffeners are obtained. They simultaneously perform two functions - they give strength and decorative effect. Its approximate cost is 390 rubles per square meter from metal 4 mm with a polymeric covering. For 1 m2 of a product made of 5 mm rods, you will have to pay 550 rubles.

A chain-link fence attracts with the lowest cost of all fencing options. Despite the relative cheapness, with a carefully executed installation, it will decorate any area. If you show imagination, then it is created unique design with your own hands. Possible options:

1. 1. Weaving openwork patterns. It is carried out on a coarse mesh with a thin wire.
2. 2. Landscaping. Climbing plants are planted along the fence.
3. 3. Artificial flowers. They are woven into cells, made from wire in insulation, pieces of plastic.
4. 4. Drawing on a grid with small cells. Aerosol paints create various images.

In addition to the financial component, other advantages of the material also make you choose it:

• light weight, which allows you to do without a massive frame or foundation if necessary;
• resistance to external climatic influences, which different types the mesh is different, as well as mechanical - the chain-link fence is difficult to destroy;
• does not create a shadow, so all plants feel comfortable even next to the fence;
• does not require any maintenance, except for structures made of ordinary unprotected wire;
• a wide range allows you to make a choice in quality, price range, sizes - the material is available in every hardware store;
• it is mounted quickly, only the sectional fence is a little slower, but in any case, two people are enough and a significant result is visible in a day.

Of course, there are some disadvantages, but they are avoided if you choose high-quality products, install a fence in accordance with the recommended technology.

Preparation - drafting, materials

To build a fence, you will need a grid, support posts, everything else, depending on the chosen design. Correctly calculate their number will allow the drafting. To do this, measure the territory along the perimeter and put a sketch on paper. Access roads, trees, various buildings are taken into account.

The features of the relief are taken into account in order to determine what is more profitable for its unevenness - to remove the soil or to make a fence in a cascade with differences in height. The drawing indicates the location of the gates, gates and pillars.

Installation methods

Preliminary sketches, which so far have only general data, allow us to calculate the amount of some materials: nets, pillars. To find out how much everything else is needed, you should stop at one of the possible technologies.

The simplest, but not very reliable, involves stretching the mesh along the supports, screwing them to them. A significant drawback is that sometimes it sags. How a temporary solution can be applied. If you bring wire into the cells around the entire perimeter, it will support the fence. At least it is pulled from above, better - additionally below, and the most advanced version - also in the middle. The required footage is equal to the perimeter multiplied by two or three.

The most attractive is the fence, consisting of separate sections. In length, they are equal to the gap between the pillars, minus a few centimeters of space from the support to the frame, and the height is determined as desired. Corners are used for manufacturing. The required amount of metal is calculated along the perimeter. This is the most labor-intensive and expensive project, but the most reliable and durable. It is used for uneven terrain to create a cascading fence.

A less expensive option is obtained when reinforcement, which is cheaper, is used for the frame instead of corners. It is not necessary to make separate elements from it, it can be stretched in the cells from below and above, welded to the supports. Detailed drawings will help determine the amount of material needed, the location, which is especially important for sectional fencing with relief differences.

Mesh selection

The main parameters are taken into account: wire diameter, mesh size, coating. The chain-link is supplied in rolls, usually 10 m each, 1.2–1.5 m wide, there are two meters and even 3 or 4 m. The height of the fence depends on this. The required length is equal to the perimeter. If you plan to use sections, then the size of one is multiplied by the total number. With significant volumes, the correct calculation will save money.

The material and coating was discussed above. Another important indicator, affecting the quality of the structure - the size of the cells, which can be from 25 to 65 mm. The smaller it is, the more expensive and stronger the product. The shape - square or diamond-shaped - does not play a significant role.

They are chosen from a purely practical point of view, considering for what purposes it is planned to use. If for the inner fence, where chickens or adult birds will be, there are some parameters, and so that larger animals do not penetrate, others. For an external fence, the indicators are different - the wire cross-section and its type are in priority.

The thickness of the metal directly affects the strength. For capital long-term structures, a mesh thinner than 2.5 mm is not used. The combination of low thickness with large cells makes it unsuitable for fencing. It pretty soon deforms, sags, holes appear.

Taking into account all the indicators, it is recommended to use a chain-link mesh with cells of 40–60 mm, with a wire diameter of 2.5 mm, galvanized or plasticized, for the external fencing of a summer cottage. She has the best value for money.

Another important feature good stuff– the state of the edges of the roll in width. For products manufactured in large enterprises using modern equipment, they are bent, which greatly simplifies installation. And private firms mostly have only a primitive machine, unsuitable for this operation. It is expensive to do it manually, so the buyer has to bend it.

What poles are used?

From all points of view, metal pipes have the greatest advantages. To install them, minimal priming or painting of the part that will be in the ground is required. Any fastening is welded to such pillars without any problems. Recommended Diameter round profile- 60 mm, rectangular section - 40 × 60 mm.

You can also find material at the nearest scrap metal purchase, which will be much cheaper. Painted pipes with hooks, specially designed for sectional fences, appeared on sale. They cost a little more than usual, but less worries. It is preferable to use a rectangular profile - it is stronger due to the stiffeners that are formed due to geometry. It is more convenient to weld fasteners to them, they look more beautiful.

Wood, as a material for supports, is quite common due to its availability. This is the simplest solution, which then often turns into trouble. Wood has a significant drawback - it is unstable to weather conditions, it is destroyed by microorganisms. Dense rocks are very expensive, and soft rocks are affordable, but extremely short-lived. True, if properly treated from fungi and rot, constantly painted, they will stand for 20 years.

In practice, wood is rarely used for capital fences. While the metal parts still last (at least twice as long), it already has to be replaced - troublesome and unwise. But if the quality of the mesh matches the pillars, then it is quite acceptable to buy material for 70 rubles. per running metre.

Other types of pipes, such as asbestos-cement pipes, are also used. They are quite durable, relatively inexpensive - for one piece three meters long you will have to pay 350 rubles. It is not easy to mount the mesh on such a support, it is necessary to make special devices in the form of clamps or clamps. Since they are hollow, the installation of plugs will be required, otherwise the water that has collected inside will freeze in winter and break the support.

brick pillars, so popular today, are rarely used for chain-link fences. These materials are very different - an impressive massive construction brick and light air mesh. Is that a sectional fence. In addition, you can’t just put them on the ground - a foundation is required.

Concrete supports are affordable, their strength is beyond doubt. At good quality they can last for centuries. But it is inconvenient to fasten, you have to invent something, and this is an extra waste of metal and time. In addition, delivery to a remote area from the store will be a problem - you will not be lucky in the passenger compartment of a car.

Marking the territory and installing poles

Start by cleaning the area where the fence will pass. It is better to do this in advance and around the entire perimeter, so that later you will not be distracted and not irritated by the garbage lying under your feet. Then pegs are installed in the corners, a cord is pulled between them. Next, mark the location of the pillars. A distance of 2–2.5 m is recommended, no more, because the mesh tends to sag.

Count the number of supports by dividing the length of the straight section of the fence by 2 or 2.5. An integer value is unlikely. Then total length divided by the average. For example, the side is 37 meters. If you divide by 2 - this is 18.5 pillars, by 2.5 - 14.8 will come out. An intermediate number of 16 is chosen. When dividing 37 meters into 16 racks, the distance between them is 2.3 m, which is quite acceptable.

Marks are made along the line of the stretched rope. Pits are made with a shovel or drill. It is important that their level is 15–20 cm below the freezing point of the soil. However, not all masters agree with this statement. In each locality, the indicators are different, but in any case it is not less than one meter. The mesh fence is quite heavy, and if the supports are not deepened enough, it can tilt. AT individual cases half a meter is allowed, a little more, but this is determined by the properties of the soil - it is dense, clayey.

If the soil is loose or heaving, set below the freezing depth. Then the pillar in winter will definitely not push it up. Another way - the pit is made twice as wide, small stones, gravel are thrown into the space around and rammed. Concrete 40 cm from the top. Drainage is created below, the supports will definitely not lead. It doesn't matter what material they are made of, even wood. This is the most reliable way to fix.

Metal pipes can be hammered with a sledgehammer, but upper part it is required to protect against deformation with a piece of board or plywood. It is sometimes quite difficult to achieve an accurate vertical position with this method of installation. They use a compromise option - they dig a hole up to half, install a support and finish it off to the desired depth.

Before installing the pillars, they are prepared. Wooden ones are treated with an antiseptic to the level of deepening into the soil. Instead, many homeowners use recycled motor oil, resin, or burn them at the stake. The metal is cleaned of rust, coated with an inhibitor that prevents corrosion. Can be painted with primer or bitumen.

It is important to follow the installation order, then all the supports will be on the same line. Step by step work is performed as follows:

1. 1. Install the pillars in the corners. When pulled, they bear the greatest load, so they are reinforced with struts. Next in line are the poles at the breaks in the fence.
2. 2. All of them act as landmarks, between which they stretch the rope. Next comes the turn of the gate and gate. Supports for them are often reinforced, necessarily concreted.
3. 3. The intermediate posts are set last, keeping the same distance between them, which is especially important for a sectional fence. May need to be amended. They monitor not only the location on the same line, but they always control the verticality with a plumb line.

On a site with a significant slope, it will not work to stretch the grid. There is only one way out of the situation - terrain terracing. In place of the height difference, a longer support is installed. A mesh is attached to it on one side, the canvas is separated in width. The second part is set at a different level. sectional fence mounted in the same way.

Tension fence - successive steps

A few days after the installation of the pillars, when the concrete hardens, they proceed to the final stage. It starts by pulling the cord along the line where the top of the fence will pass. It is determined in such a way that the bottom of the grid does not touch the ground, but is several centimeters higher. When in contact with the ground, metal, even galvanized, begins to rust faster.

Next, provide for fastening the chain-link to the supports. If they are metal, welding is used - with its help, small, 3-4 centimeters long pieces of the rod are installed. The thickness is chosen such that then without much effort to bend them. If the pillars are wooden, nails are stuffed along the entire length after 15–20 cm. For asbestos-cement, concrete, soft wire or plastic clamps are prepared.

Start with a corner support. This is due to the fact that bending around it, it is difficult to stretch the mesh well. You will have to separate the whole piece, and this is extra work. The roll is installed vertically, the extreme cells are fixed in any way. It is recommended to stretch a long bar into them, which is connected by welding with hooks, nailed, bending them, or wound with wire. This will ensure even tension.

For work, you will need the help of another person, and preferably two. Unwind the roll to the next post. A piece of reinforcement is threaded into the cells that are a little further behind it. Two people - one from above, the other from below, grab her with their hands and pull towards themselves. The third attaches the mesh to the support. The process is repeated until the roll runs out, and this can happen between posts as well.

Then the cells are connected to each other. This is done simply. The wire is taken out of the last row, the finished cloth is applied to the next one and weaved between them. It turns out a continuous mesh without seams. It is better to foresee that it will end so that the remainder is not too short. Then it is laid on the ground, and fastened in this position, which is more convenient than on weight.

You can meet the advice to carry out the procedure with all the rolls in advance, making one large and continuous canvas. You shouldn't do that. The mesh will interfere, lying under your feet, to work due to heavy weight uncomfortable and hard.

To prevent sagging, wire or reinforcement is simultaneously passed through the cells, which is fixed on supports. Make one top row or several, depending on the height of the fence. With its long length, tensioners are installed in the form of a hook with a long thread or a lanyard. These are two screws that are screwed into a special long nut with different parties. At the ends they have hooks or clamps where the cable is threaded.

If the antennae on the grid are straight, they are bent down. This protects against injury and creates additional strength of the canvas. The remaining piece is separated, retreating one cell from the last column. It remains to paint the supports if they used welding. When wire or clamps are used for fastening, this is done in advance.

Sectional fence - assembly instructions

All preliminary work similar to the tension fence device. It is required to make a frame inside which the grid is mounted. The material is a corner with shelves 30–40 mm and a thickness of 4–5 mm. Its length parameters are 10–20 cm less than the distance between the supports, and the width differs from their height by 10–15 cm. The metal is cut to size with a grinder and welded in the form of a rectangle.

Unwind the roll, separate the piece, taking out the wire. Sometimes the mesh is wider than the section, then the excess is removed with a cutting wheel. But it is desirable to foresee and calculate everything so as not to create additional worries for yourself - to buy a chain-link according to the size of the frame.

Stretching the mesh inside the section is more difficult than without it. To do the work with your own hands with high quality, do everything step by step:

• rods 4–5 mm thick are threaded into the extreme width of the cell;
• on the one hand, weld it inside the corner;
• fittings are installed at the bottom and at the top in the same way;
• grab it by welding from the side where the mesh is already fixed;
• pull and finally fix the element of the fence inside the frame.

Another method involves welding on pieces of wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm as often as possible internal parties corners. A mesh is put on them, then they are bent. Here it is important to calculate the installation locations of the hooks. So that the fence does not sag, they are welded along the top of each cell.

When the sections are ready, strips of metal 4-5 mm thick are attached to the poles (by welding, on clamps, nailed - depending on the material). On both sides of the supports, they should protrude so that the frame can be attached. It takes two pieces on each side, set at a distance of 20–30 cm from the edges.

It is more difficult and more expensive to make a sectional fence than a simple stretch one, but it looks much more attractive.

The cost of a chain-link fence

Financial costs are determined by the design of the fence and the materials used. There are many companies offering the construction of turnkey chain-link fences. The cost of one running meter from 320 to 430 rubles, depending on the diameter of the wire and the height of the fence.

Many people prefer to do it with their own hands, winning in financial plan. It is not necessary to adhere to any scheme, various combinations are possible - metal with wood, concrete, and the like. The most expensive are sectional fences, which require a lot of iron. The proposed tables are based on the retail prices of major manufacturers as of 2018.

Cost table for 1 linear meter of hardware

Prices may vary depending on different regions, but the presented data allow you to navigate when choosing a fence model from a chain-link mesh.

In order to protect their possessions in a summer cottage or in the private sector, they use a fence. The construction of such a structure requires additional investment of funds and time. In order to save money, you can make a fence with your own hands. For this, a chain-link fence is the best fit.

What is a chain-link mesh

This grid was invented in the 19th century by the German bricklayer Karl Rabitz. Initially, it was used to facilitate the plastering of walls. Over time, it has found application in many industries, ranging from the construction of barriers or cages for animals and birds, and ending with the construction of mine workings in mines.

In the manufacture, low-carbon steel wire and its other types are used: stainless, aluminum, galvanized or coated with polymers. To get a chain-link mesh, a special simple machine is used, which twists the wire spiral into each other, and winds the finished product into rolls.

Advantages and disadvantages of chain-link mesh for building a fence

Advantages:

1. It allows air and sunlight to pass through, so it does not interfere with the cultivation of cultivated plants.
2. Quick and easy installation, accessible to every person who is more or less familiar with hand construction tools.
3. Since the construction of the fence is light, a reinforced foundation is not required for it.
4. The chain-link fence does not need special care.
5. Strong, reliable, inexpensive and durable material.

Flaws:

1. A chain-link fence will not hide your site or house from prying eyes, but this problem can be solved by decorating the fence with plants.
2. Does not provide soundproofing.
3. A fence made of non-galvanized mesh quickly rusts.

Types of mesh for the fence

non-galvanized

Such a grid is made of “black” wire unprotected from corrosion. It is a cheap option of all other types and requires additional processing to ensure the durability of the structure. It is used as a temporary barrier, and needs to be painted to increase its service life. The service life of an unpainted canvas is 2-3 years, but if the non-galvanized mesh is coated with paint, this will increase the service life up to 10 years.

galvanized

This type of mesh is also made of low carbon steel, but has a protective layer in the form of a zinc coating. Thanks to this, the galvanized mesh is protected from rust and will last for many years without additional processing and care.

plasticized

If a polymer is used as a protective layer, then such a chain-link mesh is called plasticized. Since dyes are used in its manufacture, it exists in different color shades and looks much more attractive than its relatives. This type of material does not need additional processing and is not afraid of various weather conditions, and a wide color spectrum will provide design solutions when building a fence.

Preparation for the construction of the fence, calculation of the area

In order to calculate the area for the fence, you first need to know the perimeter of the site. For example, take a plot of 10 acres in the shape of a square. Since the length of the square is equal to the width (a) and has right angles, we calculate the perimeter using the formula P = 4 x a. Since the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site is known (1000 m 2), and the square area formula S = a 2, then a = 31.63 m, so the perimeter P = 126.52 m. Now you can easily calculate how many materials you need. For example, chain-link mesh is sold in rolls of 10 m, so it will need 12 whole rolls plus a length of 6.5 m.

The chain-link mesh also differs in the size and shape of the cells, which are in the form of a rectangle, rhombus, square or other geometric figure. When building a fence, the shape of the cells does not affect the result of the work, and its dimensions have some meanings. It is important to remember that the smaller the cell size, the stronger the canvas, but such a mesh does not transmit light well. Big size segment also has disadvantages, since it will not provide the right protection from small animals and poultry. To build a fence, a grid with mesh sizes from 40 to 50 mm is used. This version of the canvas will protect the territory from unwanted penetration and let in a sufficient amount of light for plants.

Also of considerable importance is the height of the canvas and the thickness of the wire from which it is made. As for the height, it starts from 1.5 m and reaches 3 m. The optimal web height for the fence is 1.5 m, and a mesh with a wire thickness of 2–2.5 mm is best suited.

If the thickness is greater, then this will lead to some difficulties. Firstly, the canvas will cost more, and secondly, it will affect the choice of material for the support posts, since the weight of the mesh will increase and the installation will become more difficult.

Calculation of the required amount

Chain-link mesh is sold in rolls, standard length which are 10 m. So that it does not sag, supports are installed along the fence line every 2–2.5 m. Therefore, 5 poles will be needed for one roll. The part of the support that is above the ground after installation must be 10 cm higher than the width of the net. The columns themselves need to be buried in the ground one third of their height.

Based on this, we can calculate how many columns and how long the grid will need. For example, we are building a fence 30 m long, which should have a height of 1.5 m. This will require 3 rolls of mesh and 16 supports, the length of which will be in the range of 2.3–2.5 m. In addition, each support is equipped with three hooks for fasteners (top, bottom and middle) total 48 pcs. You will also need a steel bar or reinforcement 5 mm thick in order to stretch the mesh. Since it will pass above and below the grid, a total of 60 m will be required.

To calculate the required amount of concrete to fill one hole with a support post, you need to find out its volume and subtract the volume of that part of the post that is buried in the ground. Since the holes and columns are in the shape of a cylinder, we make calculations using the formula:

• The number ∏ = 3.14.
• R is the radius of the cylinder (hole) in meters.
• H is the height of the cylinder (hole depth) in meters.

The diameter of the hole is 12 cm (0.12 m), and the radius is 0.12/2 = 0.06 m. The depth (H) is 80 cm or 0.8 m.

We substitute the data in the formula:

V \u003d 3.14 * 0.06 * 2 * 0.8 \u003d 0.30144 m 3 (hole volume)

For the columns we will use metal pipes with a diameter of 80 mm. The radius (R) of such a column is 40 mm or 0.04 m. The height (H) is the same as the depth of the hole - 0.8 m.

We use the same formula:

V \u003d 3.14 * 0.04 * 2 * 0.8 \u003d 0.20096 m 3 (volume of the poured part of the support)

Now we find out how much solution is needed in order to install one column in the well:

0.30144–0.20096 \u003d 0.10048 m 3

Accordingly, for 16 holes you will need: 0.10048 * 16 \u003d 1.60768 m 3 of concrete.

We prepare the batch based on the proportions: 1 part of cement (M 400), 2 parts of sand, 4 parts of crushed stone. Water is added until the mixture reaches the state of sour cream.

To get 1.6 m 3 of concrete you will need:

1. Cement (M 400) - 480 kg.
2. Crushed stone - 1920 kg.
3. Sand - 960 kg.

Calculation of materials for a fence from sections

In the event that the fence is built in a sectional way, then you also need to calculate the number of metal corners for each frame in which the mesh is attached. It is better to use a metal corner 40 by 40 mm, with a wall thickness of 5 mm. We calculate its quantity per section: the height of the frame is the same as the height of the grid (1.5 m), and the distance between the posts is 2–2.5 m.

Having made simple calculations, we see that 8 m of a metal corner will be needed for each section. There are 16 sections in total, so the total length of the corner is 128 m. They attach the mesh to the frame of the corners using 5-7 mm reinforcement, for such a fence it will take 128 m. To install the finished sections, use metal plates 5 x 15 cm in size and 5 thick mm, 4 pcs. on internal poles and 2 pcs. at the extreme, total - 60 pcs.

Tools and materials for work

• hand drill or shovel;
• tape measure, building level;
• primer for metal;
• dye;
• metal hooks;
• Rabitz;
• metal pipe with a diameter of 60 to 80 mm;
• sandpaper;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• metal corner 40 × 40 mm;
• sand, crushed stone and cement for mortar;
• metal plates (5 × 15 cm, thickness - 5 mm).

Step-by-step instructions for making a fence with your own hands

Area marking

We clean the place for the construction of the barrier from debris, plants and other possible obstacles. We determine the points where the pillars will be located and begin marking the territory. To do this, you need to hammer pegs into the extreme places of the fence and pull a nylon cord between them.

You need to pull the cord so that it does not sag or dangle from the wind. Make sure that the stretched thread does not cling to possible obstacles. Consider the section of the support pillars, taking into account the fact that they will be located inside the site, and the grid from the side of the street or neighboring territory.

A stretched nylon cord acts as a beacon not only during the marking of the area, but throughout the construction. It will provide linearity and control of the height of the fence around the entire perimeter. After that, we mark places for intermediate pillars, the distance between them should be within 2.5–3 m.

Installation of columns

After all the materials, tools have been prepared and the area has been marked, they begin to install the pillars. According to pre-made marks, with the help of a shovel or a drill, holes are made with a depth of 80 to 120 cm. The softer the soil, the deeper the holes should be and vice versa.

Since we will use metal pipes as pillars, before installation they must be cleaned of rust and oil deposits, and then sanded with sandpaper. Using a welding machine, weld the hooks for attaching the mesh, clean the welding spots with a grinder and prime the entire surface of the column with an anti-corrosion primer.

Next, we install the supports in the pits, level them and fix them in this position with spacers. Make sure all posts are at the same height and in a straight line. If this is not the case, then by adjusting the depth and width of the pits, achieve the desired result. After that, you can safely pour concrete mortar into the pits. It is recommended to proceed with the installation of the grid no earlier than 48 hours after the concrete mixture has completely solidified.

Mesh installation

For installation, do not unwind the mesh completely, it will be much more convenient to attach a whole roll to the corner post in a vertical position and hook the edges of the mesh onto the prepared hooks.

When attaching the canvas, raise it above the ground by 10-15 cm. This is necessary in order to avoid tangling grass, branches and other debris in the mesh in the future.

Next, we unwind the roll, carefully stretch the mesh and fasten it in the same way to the adjacent post. The work is best done with a partner: one can stretch the canvas, and the other can fasten it with hooks. Do this procedure around the entire perimeter of the fence. In order to prevent the mesh from sagging over time, thread a steel bar or reinforcement into the upper cells at a distance of 5–7 cm from the edge along the entire length of the fence and weld it to each post. From below, do the same, only step back from the bottom edge of the grid by 20 cm.

Production of a sectional fence

They mark out the area and install the pillars in the same way as in the previous case, only instead of hooks, metal plates are welded to the pillars, departing from the upper and lower edges by 20 cm. To make a section, you need to measure the distance between adjacent supports and subtract 15–20 from it cm, so we find out the width of the frame. The height will be the same as the grid width minus 20 cm. Next, cut off the blanks from the corner of the desired length and weld a rectangle out of them. With the help of a grinder, they clean the places of welding and grind the internal and outside sandpaper frames.

After that, the roll is unwound and the required length of the mesh is cut off with a grinder (the distance between the supports is minus 15 cm). Further, along the entire perimeter of the cut web, reinforcement 5–7 mm thick is threaded into the extreme cells.
The welded frame is placed on flat surface inside up and the prepared mesh with reinforcement is placed in it, then the upper rod is welded to the upper corner of the frame. Next, pull bottom side and with the help of welding, the reinforcement is attached to the corner. Install the sides in the same way.

After that, the finished section is placed between the supports and attached to pre-prepared metal plates by welding.

When further installing the remaining sections, pay attention to the edges of adjacent frames, they should be on the same level. For convenience, use a level or taut cord. After installation is completed, all frames must be primed and painted.

Finishing and decoration

In most cases, a chain-link fence is not decorated, but left as is. If you decide to build an original structure, then there is no limit to fantasy in this matter. Here are a few options on how you can decorate your fence.

• For decor, you can use CDs. First they are painted, and then attached to the grid with a thin wire.
• If the cells are small, then bottle caps are used for decoration. The mounting method remains the same as in the previous version.
• What is not a material for decoration masking tape.
• If you decorate the fence with colored glass or plastic squares, it will look very beautiful and original.
• You can also decorate your fence with embroidery on the grid cells with colored threads.
• Colored shreds or cross-stitch bags will help to add originality. To do this, find a suitable picture in a magazine or the Internet with finished scheme work, set it in front of you and repeat the pattern by cells in accordance with the original.

Closing from neighbor's eyes

The disadvantage of a chain-link fence is that it does not cover the area from prying eyes. In order to correct these omissions, more efforts need to be made.

One way to close the fence is a hedge. Climbing plants are most often used, but it may take several years for them to fill all sections. The way out can be planting annual plants, for example, morning glory. During the season, it will cover not only the fence mesh, but also nearby standing trees and bushes. The disadvantage of such a barrier is that it will only serve until autumn.

Another way to make your fence opaque is to use artificial pine needles. Since it is implemented in the form of coils of wire, it will be enough just to pass it between the cells.

Highly original method closing the fence - reeds. It, as in the previous case, must be threaded vertically through the cells of the chain-link.

In order for the fence to be closed and look more modern, polycarbonate is often used. It comes in different transparency and many color shades. Attaches directly to fence posts with self-tapping screws.

If the distances between the supports are greater than the width of the polycarbonate sheet, then you need to install additional metal profiles between them and attach the canvas to them, otherwise the sheets may crack under the gusts of wind.

Video: Installing a chain-link mesh at their summer cottage

As you can see, making a chain-link fence is not so difficult. Like other similar structures, it has advantages and disadvantages. It is important to remember that this a budget option, which is often erected as a temporary version of the fence. Although, as practice shows, if the installation is done correctly, it will last for many years. In addition, if you show imagination and creativity, such a fence will delight its owner not only with practicality, but also with an aesthetic, original look.