Chain-link fence - step-by-step DIY installation instructions. Installing a chain-link fence - all the details of the process Chain-link fence

A simple and inexpensive way to mark the boundaries of ownership of the territory is to install a chain-link fence. Of course, today there are many alternative materials that have a more presentable appearance, for example,. But they are more expensive and time-consuming to install, more suitable for the capital outdoor fencing of a country house.

And if you need to fence off a building site, a summer cottage, separate an economic zone from a residential one, or make an aviary for animals?

Is it reasonable to spend a lot of money and a lot of time, to attract specialists, if you can make a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands in one day, and the result will be achieved? The following describes the manufacturing technology, calculation and installation in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Benefits of a chain link fence

• saving financial resources. The price of a chain-link fence is practically the lowest of all possible fence options. Only a wattle fence can compete in price, but otherwise it will lose;

• light weight. There is no need for a massive frame or foundation pouring;

• strength and resistance to environmental factors: moisture, temperature extremes, ultraviolet, fire, mechanical damage;

• light transmission. A chain-link fence does not create obstacles for the penetration of sunlight, which means that there will be no shaded areas on the site and the plants will feel comfortable in any part of it;

• undemanding maintenance and no need for repairs;

• ability to withstand a significant load. For example, it is easier to break through a wooden fence than to break a metal net;

• availability. You can buy a chain-link mesh at any hardware store or on the market;

• a large assortment, allows you to choose the one that is best suited for specific needs;

• high installation speed. You can install a chain-link fence with two people in one day.

Of course, the mesh fence is not without drawbacks, including: unattractive appearance, "transparency" of the fence and the need for painting. Some of the shortcomings are easily leveled if you know how to choose the right chain-link mesh.

Types of mesh chain-link for the fence - which is better

When choosing which chain-link mesh to use for fencing, you need to take into account its main parameters:

1. Production material:

• low-carbon steel (mesh is more ductile);
• stainless steel (rigid mesh).

2. Outer coating:

• ungalvanized chain link. Wire thickness - 1.2-5 mm, mesh size 50-100 mm. Such a mesh is prone to rust, and needs to be painted;

• galvanized chain link. Wire thickness - 1.6-5 mm, mesh size 50-100 mm. Does not need protection, has a long service life;

• plasticized (metal with a polymer coating). Wire thickness - 2.5-2.8 mm, mesh size 25-50 mm. More presentable, with a high-quality coating has a long service life.

Advice. Ask the seller for a certificate that confirms the quality of the coating. A simple PVC coating without additives that guarantee its resistance to ultraviolet and frost will soon become unusable.

3. Netting cell dimensions

The smaller the cells, the smaller the living creatures will crawl through the grid. This is true when building a fence, for example, for chickens or ducklings. But, such a mesh will be heavier, it will take more metal to make it, which means it will be more expensive. For a fence, the best option is a grid with a cell of 50x50.

After the grid is selected, it's time to move on to the main work, namely, to create a sketch of the fence, calculate materials and install the fence (tension and sectional).

How to make a chain-link fence with your own hands

Stage 1. Chain link fence drawing

A drawing or sketch is a working graphic document that contains the following data:

• the location of the fence installation, taking into account access roads, trees, houses, other buildings on the site, etc.;

• relief features. If the site has a slope or elevation changes, the diagram will help determine which is more appropriate: level the soil or make a cascading fence;

• fence length. Since the width is determined by the width of the grid, there is no need to consider the length;

• place of installation of supporting pillars and props.

Types of chain-link fences by frame type

When designing a fence, a decision is also made as to which chain-link fence frame will be used. Due to the fact that there are three ways to attach the mesh, there are three types of frame.

• tension fence- easy to mount. The price of a tension fence from a grid the chain-link - is minimum. In order to build it, you need to install supports and stretch the grid. The design flaw is that the mesh will sag over time;

• stretch fence with broach. A broach in the form of a strong wire serves as a support supporting the mesh, preventing it from sagging;

• sectional fence. Requires more expenses for the purchase of a corner for the frame and longer time for the manufacture of sections. Although you can buy ready-made sections on the market. Naturally, the price of a sectional fence made of chain-link mesh is the highest, but the design is more reliable and practical.

Note. With uneven terrain on the site, it is better to give preference to a fence from sections, this will allow you to put a fence from a chain-link mesh, taking into account elevation changes, without leveling the ground plane.

The correct drawing of a chain-link fence contains a description of the fence with key dimensions and main nodes, incl. arrangement of corners.

Stage 2. Material for building a fence: selection and calculation

Installing a chain-link fence will take only one or two days, if you prepare all the materials and tools necessary for the job in advance.

Construction Materials:

1. Rabitz. Its requirements are described above.
2. Tension wire (when installing a tension fence). The function is to support the mesh, provide additional attachment points and eliminate the possibility of sagging. Galvanized wire with a thickness of 2 mm is suitable for the fence. (from 130 rubles/m.p.).

   As a stronger alternative to wire, reinforcement is used that is welded between posts or a thin pipe. These materials exclude mesh theft.

3. Support posts for a chain-link fence.
4. Profile corners (for the manufacture of a sectional fence). With the help of corners, a frame of individual sections is formed, which are installed on support pillars. The average price of a corner 40x40x3 is 97 rubles / m.p.
5. Thin wire or other fasteners for attaching the mesh.
6. Cement and sand (for concreting supporting pillars).
7. Protective compositions for processing wood or metal.

From the tool you will need: a tape measure, a rope for marking the site, a shovel or a drill.

What poles can be used for a chain-link fence

metal poles

A hollow profile of round or square section is used. The versatility of a metal pole is undeniable. The iron support does not need to be processed during installation (only priming and painting), any kind of fasteners are welded to the metal.
For a chain-link fence, a round post with a diameter of 60 mm is suitable. (average price for a metal thickness of 2 mm - 159 rubles / m.p.) or rectangular, with a section of 40x60 (price for a wall thickness of 2 mm - 163 rubles / m.p.).

wooden poles

Although this is the simplest solution, wooden poles have the disadvantage of being susceptible to weather and microbial activity. In addition, dense wood (oak, elm) is not cheap. You can use more popular species - pine, birch. With proper processing and constant care, they will last 20-25 years. However, in practice, wooden chain-link fence posts are used for temporary structures. For a fence, a pole with a size of 100x100 mm (70 rubles / m.p.) is suitable.

brick pillars

Strong and massive supports are too expensive for a mesh fence, therefore, they are not used in practice. In addition, under them it is necessary to fill the foundation.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

concrete pillars

Relatively inexpensive material. You can do it yourself or buy ready-made ones (approximate price for one support 80x80x2000 - 350 rubles / piece). It is relevant if the store is in the immediate vicinity of the installation site, otherwise the cost of transport will significantly increase the cost of a fence from a chain-link mesh. At the same time, fastening the mesh to a concrete pole has its own specifics.

Asbestos-cement pipes

They are characterized by relative cheapness (the price of a pipe is 100x3000 - 300 rubles), strength and resistance to decay. But stretching the mesh is inconvenient, requiring the use of clamps or clamps. In addition, the pipes are hollow, they just need to be closed with plugs, otherwise the frozen water will simply break the pipe from the inside.

Stage 3. Calculation of the fence from the chain-link mesh

1. Number of m.p. (linear meters) of the grid depends on the size of the plot. Usually the chain-link is sold in rolls of 10 m. The price of a non-galvanized mesh chain-link 50x50x2 mm - from 48 rubles / sq.m. The price of a polymer mesh 50x50x2.2 mm - from 221 rubles / sq.m.
2. The length of the wire for stretching is equal to two lengths of the fence (or three if the wire is installed in the middle). With a fence height of 1500 mm, 2-3 pieces are enough.
3. The number of posts depends on the perimeter of the site (total length of the fence) and is calculated based on the fact that the maximum distance between adjacent posts is 2,500 mm. This rule is the same for stretch fences and sectional fences.
4. The length of the profile corner is equal to the perimeter of the frame multiplied by the number of sections.
5. Wire for fastening or other fasteners depending on the method of fastening.

Stage 4. Installing a chain-link fence with your own hands

The sequence of work.

1. Soil surface preparation

The installation site of the fence does not need serious cleaning. It is enough to remove debris and eliminate interfering plants and shrubs. At the same time, plants that will grow near the grid (and not near the supporting post) can be left if their development does not lead to deformation of the grid.

2. Pouring the foundation for a chain-link fence

Do you need a foundation for a chain-link fence? There are fences installed on the foundation. The pouring of the concrete base can only be explained by the installation of a grid using heavy metal sections. Which in most cases is unjustified.

3. Installation of posts for a chain-link fence

Fence post preparation

• Processing wooden poles- the timber should be treated with an antiseptic (a solution that prevents wood decay) according to the level of penetration into the soil. The SENEZH product line has proven itself well (price from 90 rubles/l).

• Processing of metal poles- iron supports must be derusted and coated with a corrosion inhibitor (prevention of rust development). Conferum products are in demand, which supplies several types of primers.

How deep should chain-link fence posts be buried?

Despite the minimum net windage, the chain-link is heavy, with a length of 2.5 meters (between the supports) and a height of 1.5 m, the fence can tilt or fall. Therefore, support pillars are installed to a depth of up to 1 meter, under certain conditions (fence height, type of soil on the site), the minimum depth of the pit is 50-80 cm.

Ways to install fence posts

Installation on hard ground (clay)

Installation is possible in two ways:

• Firstly, by driving or screwing the supports to the desired depth. This method has a significant drawback, which manifests itself in the fact that it is difficult to maintain the installation level when clogging and it is easy to deform the top of the clogged pipe. Therefore, it must be covered with plywood to avoid deformation.

• Secondly, by drilling / digging a hole for it, followed by pouring concrete. In this case, the installation depth of the support is chosen taking into account the level of soil freezing. However, some masters argue that this is not necessary.

Installation on loose and heaving soils

The technology is more time-consuming, here the masters also distinguish two installation options:

• First, install the support 20 cm below the freezing level of the soil. Then the heaving of the soil will not squeeze out the pipe.

• Secondly, replace the soil around the support. To do this, you need to make a hole of a larger diameter (twice the diameter of the pipe) and replace the soil in this place with crushed stone, at a height of 40 cm to the soil surface, the column is concreted. This method creates drainage, which takes on the heaving of the soil and levels it. In this case, the column will definitely not lead.

Advice. Manual drilling, especially with a large number of holes for posts, is a very laborious task. It is better to find / rent / buy a motor drill, with which guide holes of 50-60 cm are made, the remaining 40-50 cm of the pipe (pillar) are clogged with a sledgehammer.

How to install chain link fence posts

Installing posts for a chain-link fence is no different from arranging other types of fences. Installation order:

• corner posts are installed first. When tensioned, they are subjected to the greatest load, so it is advisable to reinforce them with spacers (oblique supports). The purpose of the struts is to prevent the tilt of the support. As an option, you can put more powerful pillars (thick-walled) in the corners;

• poles are installed at the break of the fence (at the corners of the fence, at the corners);

• a rope is stretched between the already installed pillars, along which, first of all, supports for gates and gates are mounted;

• the entrance group is set up ( , ). Please note that the entrance group of the chain-link fence is always made in the form of a section, reinforced with additional jumpers;

• after that, ordinary pillars are installed. It is advisable to make the distance between them the same. This rule is mandatory when installing a sectional fence.

Note. Hollow metal pipes are closed with plugs to prevent water from getting inside and rust.

4. Guide wire for stretching the chain-link mesh

The task of the wire (cable) is to ensure a strong tension of the mesh between the posts. The necessary tension is provided by such methods of fastening the chain-link:

• tensioner;
• lanyard;
• hook with a long thread;
• staples, clamps, spans and clamps only keep the wire from sagging on intermediate posts. They are not used as tensioners.

The order of stretching the chain-link: one end of the net is tied to the corner support post, and the other is stretched. If the length of the fence is too long, intermediate fasteners are installed. Their function is to support the wire.

Note. Some users advise passing the guide wire through the grid cells. But this option is only suitable when installing a small fence, because stretching the wire along the entire length, and then installing the mesh on supports is a difficult and pointless task.

5. Fastening the chain-link mesh to the posts

• install on a stretched tension wire;
• fasten to the armature;
• install in a section and secure in separate sections.

How to stretch the mesh between the pillars of the supports when building a tension fence

The chain-link mesh roll is installed vertically near the corner post (attached to metal posts). In this case, the folded edges of the mesh should be oriented upwards. This reduces the risk of injury from the sharp ends of the wire.

Advice. If a non-galvanized chain-link mesh is installed, then the craftsmen recommend raising it above the ground by 100-150 mm.

The grid is fixed in several places on the support. Then, gradually unwinding, the mesh is pulled and at the same time attached to the upper horizontal jumper (wire or reinforcement).

When the first roll is over, the mesh is pulled over the bottom jumper. In this case, it is important to unravel all the tangled spirals of the grid.

After that, the second roll is screwed to the first roll (together), and the second roll is unwound with tension.

Note. If the work is carried out with an assistant, then the connection (bundle of rolls) can be performed on a canopy. If on your own, then you need to connect the pieces when the mesh is not completely stretched, and its edge can be stretched along the length on the ground. Sometimes tying is done by using a wooden bridge to which the edges of both rolls are attached.

After installing the chain-link mesh along the entire length of the fence, the mesh is fixed on the middle jumper.

When pulling the wire, special attention should be paid to the corners. Here you need to be extremely careful to avoid skewing the mesh web.

How to stretch the mesh between the pillars of the supports when building a sectional fence

First, let's look at how to make sections for a fence from a chain-link mesh

• from a metal corner you need to make a frame. Frame parameters: length is equal to the length of the support pipe minus 100-150 mm; the width is equal to the distance between adjacent supports;

• the corner is dissolved into blanks with the help of a grinder;

• blanks are welded into a frame;

• Next, we work with the grid. The required size is unwound from the chain-link roll and separated by twisting the wire;

• a reinforcing bar is inserted into all four sides of the grid. The rod allows you to stretch the mesh to the edge of the corner;

• the rod is welded to the edges of the frame inside the corner. Thus, the chain-link is fastened to the corner.

There is another option, which involves welding on the inside of the corner of metal pins (hooks) 3 mm thick. Then the pins are bent inward with pliers, and a mesh is pulled over them. After the entire mesh is stretched, you need to weld the edges of the hooks to make a loop. This eliminates the possibility of the grid slipping.

After the frame is ready, we proceed to its installation. To fasten a separate section to a profile pipe, you need to weld a metal plate onto the support and weld the section to it.

It should be noted that it is very difficult for a beginner without experience to make sections for a fence from a chain-link mesh. The difficulties are related to the fact that:

• it is problematic to make sections of the same size;

• it is difficult to install a mesh segment tightly, without sagging;

• the need to perform welding work;

• the complexity of the installation of fence sections.

Decorative ornament of a chain-link fence

The mesh fence does not have a bright design and attractiveness, but if desired, it will result in a nice and durable fence for the site.

Mesh Fence Decor Ideas

• openwork weaving. It is carried out with a thin wire on a grid with large cells. A simple pattern can be done with your own hands;

• decorative gardening. Planting weaving or climbing plants along a mesh fence will create a hedge around the site. Alternatively, you can attach hanging flower pots, as in the photo on the right;

• in order not to wait until the greenery grows and braids the fence, the grid can be decorated with decorative wire flowers;

• creative design. With a little imagination, you can create original and fun decorations for a chain-link fence.

Do-it-yourself chain-link fence - video

The cost of a chain-link fence

The total costs for the construction of a chain-link fence are determined taking into account the materials used and their quantity. For example, the cost of the material was indicated as they were discussed. The cost per meter is easy to calculate, knowing the consumption of each material and the length of the fence.

The price of a chain-link fence for work with installation for 1 r.m. shown in the table

Thus, a chain-link fence is a cost-effective and prefabricated type of fence that you can do yourself.

The patented invention of Karl Rabitz has been a reliable option for fence material for more than a century. In the fencing of a chicken coop and a transformer booth, a sports ground and a land plot - such a grid can be found everywhere. There is no alternative to it in the delimitation of neighboring areas - according to the standards, it is forbidden to install boundary fences made of opaque materials. The task of how to make a chain-link fence with your own hands will not seem difficult to any man with a minimum of tools.

What mesh netting to choose for the fence

The chain-link grid represents a continuous cloth from the wire spirals interwoven among themselves. This design makes it easy to splice fragments together. In this case, the cell size can be in the range of 20-100 mm (the most common dimensions are 30-50 mm), the standard roll height is 1, 1.5 and 2 m.

In the manufacture of the grid, wire of different diameters from 1.2 to 5 mm is used; most of the chain-link on sale is made of wire 1.5-2 mm in diameter. The wire can be coated and uncoated:

• Uncoated ("black"). It is better not to use a mesh from it for capital fences, its service life is short, and it is almost impossible to paint such a product with high quality, despite all the assurances of the "advisors".
• Zinc coated - the most common option. Galvanized chain-link will fade after a while, but will not rust, having served for more than a dozen years.
• From stainless steel. Chic and timeless option, but very expensive.
• In a polymer shell. Such a grid appeared on sale not so long ago and is in great demand. Firstly, it has a long service life (subject to the choice of a reliable manufacturer with high-quality plastic coating), and secondly, you can realize your fantasies due to a wide palette of colors.

Galvanized Wire Mesh

Mesh with colored polymer coating

With your own hands, you can not only build a fence from a chain-link, but also weave the mesh itself. There are many drawings of a manual machine for weaving it. The manufacture of the machine will require some milling, welding and simple turning work. One person is able to make up to 10 m of mesh per day, therefore, therefore, if there is wire, it makes sense to think about independent production.

Installation of supports for the construction of the fence

There are several options for making a chain-link fence. In any case, the most responsible and time-consuming process is the marking of the territory and the installation of supporting pillars.

How to prepare the site and choose supports

Before installing a mesh fence, you should accurately, according to the available documents for the site, measure the boundaries of the future fence, consider the location of the gates and gates. Clean the place for the construction of the fence from debris and vegetation, and then hammer the poles (wooden or metal stakes) into the places of future corner posts and supports under the gates and gates.

To determine the location of the intermediate posts, you need to stretch a strong cord between the stakes, then measure the distance between them. Optimally, the racks are placed 2-2.5 m apart, so the resulting distance must be divided by 2.5 and rounded up.

The distance between the posts should be from 2 to 2.5 m

In this way, the number of corner posts is found; the exact distance between them can be found by dividing the distance mentioned above by the number of posts. Places of future supports should also be marked with pegs.

Depending on the type of underlying soil, material, thickness of the pillars and the type of future fence, there are several methods for mounting the supports. Wooden posts are short-lived, concrete or asbestos-cement pipes cause difficulties in attaching the grid.

The best solution for making a chain-link fence with your own hands will be metal racks from a round or shaped square pipe from 60 mm in diameter. Let's take a look at this option next.

Support pole installation methods

You can install metal racks:

• just hammering them into the ground;
• fill - place in a prepared hole and fill it with stones or large gravel, constantly tamping;
• partially (when the end of the rack is driven into the ground) or completely concreted in pre-prepared pits.

There are many methods for calculating the length and depth of the underground part of the pillars - with the determination of the type of soil, the level of groundwater passage and the depth of soil freezing. But for a light fence from a chain-link mesh, possible movements of supports of several centimeters in height are insignificant, therefore, in practice, a simple rule is used - at least 40% of the column should be in the ground. That is, a fence post with a height of 1.5 m should be about 2.1 m long for any installation method, but optimally full concreting.

In practice, the process looks like this:

1. Install corner (or end, in the presence of gates and gates) racks, strictly controlling their verticality using a level.
2. Prepare pits for intermediate racks according to the pre-marking. The presence of a drill in normal (without roots and large stones) soil greatly facilitates the work!
3. After the concrete has hardened, pull a cord along the top of the racks to control the height of the installed intermediate supports, another one from the bottom to control the placement of all pillars in one line.
4. To facilitate the alignment of the pillars in height, fill the bottom of the pits with sand, gravel or small gravel and simply change the height of this pillow by adding or removing material.
5. Pour the height-adjusted racks with concrete with level control, if necessary, install stops and stands.

Further installation should be carried out only after the concrete has hardened (at least one week), the racks must be primed and painted.

Instructions for building different types of chain-link fences

Before you start building a chain-link fence with your own hands, you should determine the purpose of the fence, the basic requirements for aesthetics and strength. Indeed, in one case, a powerful fence made of a non-standard mesh with a wire of 4-5 mm for grazing is needed, in the other, a beautiful and elegant fence in front of the house or a lightweight structure without frills at the borders of neighboring plots. For each task there is a variant.

The simplest fence for the site

The easiest way to install a mesh fence is to simply attach it to the installed supports. For this work, you will need an assistant, and preferably two.

1. Before fastening, roll out the chain-link on the ground at a distance of a little more than one span between the racks.
2. Check the level of the wire spirals in height, if necessary, screw in or unscrew the offset ones. The fact is that it is not visible in the roll whether they are all on the same level, and after stretching the mesh, it will be impossible to align the links.
3. Immediately bend the edges of the spirals with pliers to avoid injury and the possibility of unwinding the mesh during installation.
4. As you fasten the mesh, unwind further.

There are several ways to attach the chain-link to the racks, but it is highly desirable to attach not the mesh itself (in order to avoid its deformation), but a metal rod inserted vertically into its link with a diameter of 6-10 mm. For one more of the same pin, inserted a little further, the assistant should stretch the canvas.

This does not require any blocks, levers and complex structures for stretching, moreover, excessive efforts by one person can lead to deformation and stretching of the 2 mm wire mesh!

The rod can be attached to the support like this:

• just tie it with soft wire to the pole. The fastest way, but not too beautiful;
• use not wire, but special clamps;

Fastening with clamps

• put the pin on pre-prepared hooks and bend them. Hooks from pieces of wire with a diameter of 4-6 mm and a length of 50-80 mm should be welded to the rack at a distance of 400-500 mm from each other until the mesh is stretched;

Fastening with hooks

• weld a rod (not a canvas!) To a pole in several places, obtaining a non-separable connection;
• flash the mesh spiral with a rod, inserting it into pre-welded pipe sections with a diameter of 1/4ʺ, 15-20 mm long. They should be placed on the support through the same distance as the hooks; the small length of the segments will allow them to fit into the cells of the grid. The most aesthetic way of collapsible connection.

End and corner posts will experience constant loads from the impact of a stretched mesh, so braces (stops) are required.

Corner post mounting method

Stretch fence option

To ensure greater rigidity of the fence, better resistance to wind loads and to prevent sagging of the web, one (top) or several rows of a cable or wire 4-6 mm thick can be pulled.

You can attach to the supports and pull such strings in any convenient way, but the most practical option is with the help of special ties or tensioners.

String tensioner

When installing a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands using stretch marks, the distance between the posts can be increased to 3m. But it should be borne in mind that when stretching, the load on the extreme and corner supports increases many times, so their rigidity should be increased in comparison with supports for a simple tension fence.

The ideal option for fixing the web is through stitching the mesh along the length. But this process is long and laborious, and with an increase in the diameter and rigidity of the cable or wire, the complexity increases.

Therefore, in practice, the strings are first pulled, then the chain-link is mounted in the same way as the simple method described above, and then, after 200-300 mm, the mesh is tied to extensions with a galvanized knitting wire with a cross section of 1-1.5 mm.

Reinforced version with lags

To strengthen the supporting frame of the fence, logs should be welded to the installed racks, preferably from a profile pipe. The main load in the fence will be compression, so the section of the log should ensure that the frame does not “fold” when the mesh is stretched and the fence is subsequently used. With this method of installation, there is no need for braces for corner and end posts.

Mesh netting on a frame with lags

Since most of the effort will be applied at the top of the fence, the lower and intermediate logs (if any) can be replaced with reinforcement, rolled wire, or strings can be pulled altogether, as in the previous method. Fasten the mesh fabric to the frame with wire.

A fence with lags will be a good start for the future if it becomes necessary to decorate the fence by hanging additional material on it. Also, without any problems, you can replace the chain-link with a professional sheet or slate, making the fence much more solid.

Practical sectional solution

Fence from sections

A fence of sections, which are frames from a corner with a mesh fixed inside, is the most difficult to manufacture, but has a lot of advantages and benefits:

• such a design is the most beautiful and flawless in an artistic perspective;
• each section is a separate and rigid structural element, so there will be no issues with mesh sagging and loss of protective properties;
• if necessary, the sections can be dismantled and the poles can be used to build new fences;
• the possibility of installation with a large slope of the fenced area. It is believed that the chain-link mesh can be stretched when the ground level rises no more than 6 ° (which corresponds to a slope of 1:10). If these values ​​are greater, the correct solution would be a sectional fence with uniform ledges.

Sectional fence with ledges

For the manufacture of the section, a steel seamless-rolled corner with a shelf of 40-50 mm is used.

1. Using a "grinder" (better - a mounting saw), cut off parts of the required size strictly perpendicularly.
2. Lay the frame out on a flat surface (or level all corners with the help of pads), carefully measure the diagonals. The frame should be cooked in opposite corners to avoid twisting it.
3. In the finished frame, clean the seams, prime and paint it (it is much easier to renew burnt places from welding than to paint the corner under the grid!).
4. It is necessary to install the mesh web through rods that can be welded or installed on hooks and bent (as well as to racks). At the same time, fix the first pin on the side of the frame, after stretching the mesh - on the opposite side, and then from above and below.
5. Do not apply excessive force when stretching, otherwise the section may "fold" inward. Fastening from all sides, even with minimal tension, will not allow the canvas to “worry” and sag.
6. The distance between the supports should be calculated so that there is a gap of 40-80 mm between the support and the frame (or make sections according to the already known distance between the posts).
7. To fasten the sections to the poles, weld metal plates in advance (approximately 6 * 60 * 250 mm).
8. It is possible to fasten the frames to the dies both by means of electric welding and by bolts, having received a collapsible structure.

Approximate diagram of fastening sections

Video: do-it-yourself chain-link fence

How to decorate a mesh netting - original solutions

Many do not want to make a chain-link fence, considering it impersonal, too simple, and refuse this option in favor of other materials. Completely wrong! There are many ways to make such a fence original and unique, here are some of them.

Making patterns from wire. A laborious method, but beautiful and for a long time.

The use of polymer multi-colored ribbons and cords. Bright, elegant, but not too durable.

Elegant applications from ribbons and cords

Living plants. Always relevant, but beautiful only during the period of active vegetation and flowering. And from autumn to spring, if the dried stems are not removed in a timely manner, it looks very untidy. Similarly, you can use artificial greens.

Illumination nets. They come in a variety of colors and degrees of light transmission. Significantly increase the windage and weight of the fence, so they are not suitable for a simple tension fence.

Application of a light-shading grid

PVC photo fence or decorative photo grid. New, expensive, beautiful and luxurious material. It is also worth using with a powerful frame or a sectional fence solution, hanging over a chain-link.

On this question, how to make a fence from a grid with your own hands, can be considered closed. Good luck in construction, and let the fence made with the help of the advice received please you for many years!

GOSTs normalize a lot, including how it is possible or impossible to delimit areas. So, for example, the regulations prescribe to delimit neighboring areas with transparent fences. Since the boundary is usually long, it is desirable that the fence be inexpensive. Actually, the choice is small - a chain-link fence or. Wattle, although cheap, is extremely short-lived, so that only a mesh fence remains. In general, it is correct to say “chain-link fence”, but for the ear it is more common to incline the name.

Popular and inexpensive - chain-link fence

Whatever this fence is called, it has a solid number of positive aspects. The first and important plus is cheapness. This applies to both the filling itself - the grid, and the rest of the structure. To stretch the grid, the foundation is not required. It is enough to drill holes for about a meter, insert a pole and, having fallen asleep rubble, compact it well. Everything, no concrete work. On most soils, this installation method for this filling works for "five".

Structures and installation methods

The fact is that the chain-link fence is light. Moreover, it is light both in terms of its own weight and in terms of perceived wind loads. No matter how strong the winds blow, the pressure transmitted by the net to the poles remains negligible. Due to the low weight, such a technology for installing pillars can be used: in a hole, under filling with sand or gravel, without concrete. Moreover, such a fence stands without problems even on heaving clay soils with a high level of groundwater, and even with a large freezing depth.

Without guides

Here's how it works. We are talking about the simplest design: just pillars, between which a grid is stretched. As you can see, the pillars are buried to a depth of less than a meter. What happens to such a fence on soils that normally drain water? All the water near the column goes down through the sand or gravel to the bottom of the hole. There it leaves in a natural way - it seeps into the underlying layers. Even if frost hits and the sand or gravel around the post freezes, the moisture content is not enough to have at least some significant effect on the post.

On clays and loams, you can use the same principle, only it is necessary to fill it with gravel. And be sure to pour 10-15 centimeters of gravel at the bottom of the hole, and only then install a pole. What happens in this case. Water still accumulates at the bottom, but it leaves very slowly. It may well happen that by the time of freezing, the rubble will still be wet, or even be in the water.

What will happen then? It will freeze and become hard. But since the soil also freezes, it puts pressure on the rubble. The forces are considerable, and the ice breaks, the rubble becomes mobile and compensates for most of the pressure created by the ground. As a result, if there are movements of the pillars, then they are quite small - from a few millimeters to several centimeters. Since the design is not rigid, the mesh will easily transfer it without any harm. After everything thaws, the poles will lower into place. But such a scenario is only if they are placed perfectly vertically. Otherwise, the poles may tilt and you will have to fix everything.

With guides (legs)

Sometimes, in order for the fence to be more solid and keep its shape better, two longitudinal guides are attached to the posts. They can be from a pipe, or they can be from a bar. Wood, as a plastic material, will tolerate soil movements remarkably, but a welded pipe will create additional difficulties.

The degree of rigidity of such a fence is higher, and when heaving, if the posts are squeezed out, it is quite possible that in some places the pipes may be torn off. To prevent this situation, you will have to dig below the freezing depth in your area. Everything else remains in effect: the hole is 15-20 cm deeper than required, there is rubble at the bottom, then a pipe is inserted, covered with well-compacted rubble.

Sectional

There is another design of a chain-link fence. Frames are welded from the corner, on which the mesh is then stretched. Finished sections are welded to exposed poles.

As you can see from the description, the design is also quite rigid. This means that on heaving soils (clay, loam) it is necessary to bury the pillars 20-30 cm below the freezing depth of the soil, but it is also desirable to do without concreting. If you fill crushed stone with concrete, the probability that the pillar will “squeeze out” increases many times over.

Types of chain-link mesh for a fence

Even such a seemingly simple material as a chain-link mesh can be different. Moreover, the difference is solid both in price and in service life.

Plastic or polymer mesh - 100% polymer

In addition to different materials, the chain-link has a different cell size. It varies from 25 mm to 70 mm. The larger the cell, the cheaper the mesh, but the lower the bearing capacity it has. If you put a chain-link fence on the border with a neighbor, they take mainly the middle link - from 40 mm to 60 mm.

What to look for when choosing a grid

Carefully inspect each roll. Its edges should not be curved. The upper and lower cells should be with curved "tails". Moreover, it is desirable that the length of the folded part be more than half the length of the cell. This mesh is easier to pull.

Edges should be straight and folded

Pay attention to the thickness of the wire, how even the cells are, how ugly they lie. All deformations are a sign of low quality.

If the mesh netting is in a polymer coating, check the warranty period given by the manufacturer. The cheapest ones, not only do the wire often bend, they also use ordinary plastic, which, under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, becomes brittle after a couple of seasons and begins to crumble. A normal coating can last up to ten years or more. Therefore, in this case, it is not worth chasing cheapness.

Which poles to use

There are several options:

The most convenient option of all these is a profile pipe, and better - a rectangular section. It is easy to attach the mesh to it, and you can weld hooks or wire if necessary. If possible, put them on. The optimal section for the post is 25 * 40 mm or so. You should not take a larger section - the fence is light.

The order of installation of pillars

First, put up the pillars at the corners of the site. If only one side needs to be fenced, one pole is placed at the beginning, the second at the end. Their verticality in all planes is strictly checked, the height is adjusted. At the very top and 10 cm above ground level, two cords are pulled. The rest of the pillars are placed on them. The height is aligned along the upper lace, the lower one serves to facilitate orientation: by attaching a plumb line to a point on the upper thread, you can find the place where the hole will be drilled.

The installation step of the pillars is 2-3 meters. Less is too expensive, more is pointless, the mesh will sag. When installing mesh without a guide wire, it makes sense to put posts every 2 or 2.5 meters. This makes it easier to stretch the mesh without sagging. For other models - with wire, slides (guides) or sections - the step can be 3 m.

If the grid is stretched between the posts, the extreme ones have a considerable load. so that they are not "led", they put jibs. They are exposed, dug in, welded to the installed pole.

Netting net installation

It only seems at first that it is easy to put up a chain-link fence. As soon as you start to think about how to fix the net on the pole, how to stretch it, everything is not so obvious and simple ... First, about the general rules. The mesh is attached to one of the corner posts. Fasten in at least four places. In principle, you can simply fasten it with wire, passing it into the cell.

The method is simple, but not the most reliable. If the fence is in the country, during the absence of the owners, the grid can be easily removed and carried away.

You can at least fix it more securely on the first and last pillar. To do this, take a steel bar with a thickness of at least 4 mm, thread it through the cells, weld it to the pole, grabbing every 40-50 cm (in the photo on the left).

Another way: weld three or four rods with a diameter of 6 mm to each post. A mesh is put on them, they are bent.

If you are still paranoid about the fact that I will remove the mesh, you can drill two through holes in the post, insert a rod bent in the form of a horseshoe - U, capturing the mesh with its “back”. On the side where the ends come out, twist them and rivet them, or weld them.

Stretch

There is another problem: how to stretch the grid. If the design is simple - without slegs (transverse guides that are fixed between the posts), you can simply stretch the grid from one post to another. Just note that it is necessary to fasten sequentially to each pole. Fastening first through one, and then intermediate ones is a bad idea: there will definitely be uneven tension and sagging.

How to stretch the chain-link mesh so that there is no sagging? Insert the rod, grab it and pull with all your weight. The stretch will be quite significant. It is necessary to work with an assistant: one pulls and holds, the second fastens.

with wire

This type of fence is good because it is put up quickly. But the top edge may sag. If someone climbs through it, the top will definitely jam. It's unlikely to straighten it out. So that the top does not sag and “wrinkle”, a wire is pulled through the first row, it can be steel, or it can be in a plastic sheath so that it does not rust.

If wire is used, the technology can be simple: make a loop at the end, throw it over the last post. They unwind the wire trying to pull it, after two or three pillars make another loop, wrapping the wire around the pillar. So until the end of the flight. With the use of muscle strength, it will not be possible to pull enough, and the wire will inevitably sag. This is easy to fix. Take a thick metal rod, and use it to twist, pulling the wire. Is one twist not enough? A little further you do another one. So you tighten all the "spans". After that, you can begin to “pull” the grid, tying it to a stretched wire.

If you weld “ears” at the top of the column - a metal bar with holes, the wire can be attached to them. Pulling a piece of 2-3 meters is easier, but the work is slower.

You can also use special wire tensioners. Then, having fixed the wire on one pole, on the second it is passed into such a device as in the photo. It is fastened in a clamp, and then with the help of a key, the excess is wound onto the drum.

You can use a cable and lanyards - hooks with tie-clamps (in the rigging store). On one side, a cable is twisted around the pole, secured with a clamp. On the other hand, a lanyard is placed. Its middle part is threaded, so you can pull the cable.

A lanyard with a cable is another option.

Since the cable is more flexible, it can be passed through the links. Each one will be too long, after two or three cells - it's normal. One more thing: take a cable with a polymer sheath: it will not rust.

With welded wire

A steel bar with a diameter of 6-8 mm is threaded into the upper cell, or slightly lower. It is cut into pieces equal to the distance from one pillar to another. The threaded rod is welded to the pole.

Pay attention to the top of this chain-link. In this photo, you can clearly see that it has already begun to bloom. This is exactly the reason why it is necessary to take a mesh with curved ends. It just doesn’t unravel, and even without a wire or a bar, it holds the edge well.

With slugs (guides)

In even more rigid structures, after the pillars are installed, slugs are welded to them. These are cross pipes or wooden planks attached between posts. There may be one guide, or there may be two or three.

As you can see in the photo, in this case, you can also fasten the mesh with a wire. Obviously, all methods described above can be used. The only difference is that the mesh is attached not only vertically, but also horizontally. The photo below shows another way - with plates bolted, the ends riveted. This method can also be used when attaching to poles.

Chain link fence decoration

No matter how pleased you are with the fence at first, after a while there is a desire to either decorate it, or make it less transparent in order to close from prying eyes.

The first way - the most obvious - is to plant plants. If the neighbors do not mind, bindweeds or any other annual or perennial plants can be used.

The most natural way is to plant plants

If you just want to decorate your fence, you can do "embroidery". The cells are the same size, so you can embroider like on a canvas. There are two materials for embroidery: wire and colored twine.

Colored twine is good because you can "embroider" color pictures. Any that seem appropriate to you.

Not a very aesthetic, but quite effective way is to stretch a camouflage or shading net. These methods are good because they require a minimum of effort: they pulled it, grabbed it in a couple of places.

The shading mesh is almost opaque and the wind load will hardly change

The same effect is achieved if twigs or reeds are woven into the cells. The disadvantage of this option is the high labor intensity. It will take a lot of time.

Ready-made reed mats can reduce manufacturing costs. They are sold in rolls. All you need to do is unroll and fasten. But the cost is much higher than the previous option.

Another way is to use artificial needles sold in rolls. It is used in the manufacture of baskets and wreaths, but it can also be adapted to the fence.

Green wall - chain-link mesh decorated with artificial needles

Not so long ago, another way of decorating and, at the same time, reducing the visibility of a fence from a chain-link mesh appeared - a photo grid. This is a pattern printed on a polymer mesh. Sold in rolls (for tension fence) or fragments (for sectional). It is fastened with the help of eyelets and wire or clamps built into the surface. You can see an example of the effect in the photo below.

From the chain-link mesh and decorate the fence, and close the area from prying eyes

Chain-link mesh is a practical material, ideal for creating fences, especially boundary fences. This is due to its strength, lack of shadow from the fence and ease of installation. Today we will consider the nuances of choosing a chain-link mesh, as well as the main issues related to the technology of its installation.

Types of chain-link mesh

Plasticized chain-link mesh

The strength of the fence, its appearance and cost will directly depend on what type of mesh you choose. There are three main types of chain-link mesh:

• plasticized;
• black non-galvanized;
• galvanized.

The plasticized mesh is covered with a polymer protective layer, which extends the life of the material, making it more resistant to corrosion. In addition, this coating is distinguished by a variety of colors, so that the mesh fence can be matched to the roof or facade of the house.

Non-galvanized or, as it is also called, black chain-link mesh is the most inexpensive variety. But it has a significant drawback - a short service life (3-4 years) due to rapid rusting. For longer operation, the mesh will need to be regularly painted or treated with water-repellent compounds.

Galvanized netting tolerates high humidity well, does not rust and, unlike black mesh, does not need regular painting. However, its price is much higher.

Cell size and shape may vary.

Also, the grid can have a different shape of cells and their size. The shape does not affect anything except the appearance, but you should pay attention to the size of the cells when choosing. They can vary from 2.5 to 6 cm, and the smaller the cell, the stronger the fence will be. Accordingly, the price of fine-mesh mesh will be higher.

To determine this parameter, you need to take into account the purpose of the fence. For example, for the construction of a corral for small pets and birds, it is better to use a medium-sized mesh, and large-mesh material is also suitable for delimiting a suburban area or a summer residence.

How to make a chain link fence

There are two ways to make a fence from a chain-link mesh - make it from a chain-link and a section corner and then connect them or fix the mesh between pre-installed support pillars.

In the second case, the cost of the fence will be lower and its installation will be easier, however, in appearance, such a fence is inferior to a sectional one. The first option is more beautiful and durable, but will require additional costs for the purchase of a corner for sections. Below we will consider both methods, but before that it is worthwhile to figure out which supports for the mesh fence are better to use, because in any of the options you cannot do without them.

Chain link fence posts

When installing a chain-link mesh, wooden or metal supports are usually used. Wooden poles are less durable, and their use is justified only if it is possible to purchase the material inexpensively, and the fence itself will be temporary.

Before starting work, wooden supports should be thoroughly cleaned of bark and cut to the required length. They are usually deepened below the freezing level of the soil by 15 cm. The underground part of the pillars must be impregnated with a waterproofing compound, and the rest of the surface should be painted, this will extend the life of the fence. The mesh to such supports is usually fastened with nails or special clamps.

Installation of wooden fence posts

Metal poles are used more often due to their durability. As a standard, for these purposes, round or square pipes with a cross section of 6-12 cm are purchased, while their wall thickness should be 2 mm or more. If you have an acute question of saving, then you can buy pipes in the purchase of scrap metal, choosing, albeit not new, but strong enough products without signs of corrosion.

Those who are not constrained by funds can purchase ready-made supports designed specifically for mounting the grid. They are already painted and equipped with fixing hooks.

As an alternative to metal and wood, you can use concrete supports. However, in this case, you will have to face difficulties when installing the chain-link, since it will be possible to fix it only with the help of special brackets or cables woven into the mesh, and this is not very convenient.

Chain link fence

The secret of a reliable and durable fence lies not only in the use of high-quality materials, but also in observing the technological aspects of its assembly. Consider how to make a chain-link fence, fixing it between metal supports. The width of the grid installed in our example is 2 m.

Installation of such a fence will not require significant effort and even two people can handle it. To do this, it is not necessary to have construction skills, the main thing is to responsibly approach each of the stages of work.

Marking the territory for the fence

The construction of the fence begins with the designation of its contour. To do this, marks (small wooden or metal pegs) are driven into the corners of the site and connected to each other with a cord or rope. Then you need to measure the length of the rope - this will be the required net footage. But when buying, it is still advisable to take material with an allowance of several meters

It is necessary to mark the site by driving in pegs

It should be borne in mind that it is possible to build a fence from a tension mesh netting only on a relatively flat area, since it is problematic to fix it in an inclined position. If there is a significant slope, then terracing will be the only way out. To do this, at the junction of different heights, you will have to install a pole (stronger and longer than the others), to which parts of the grid will be attached from different sides and at different levels.

With large height differences, it is more rational to make a sectional fence

Pole installation

In the designated places, you need to dig holes for support pillars. The optimal depth of the wells is 120 cm. The installation should begin with the corner supports, which account for the greatest pressure.

First of all, layers of rubble and sand are poured into the bottom of the pits, each of which is carefully compacted. Then the lower part of the pipes is treated with an anti-corrosion compound, the supports are installed in the wells and poured with concrete. The solution is mixed from one part of sand and two parts of crushed stone and cement. The amount of water is added so that the mixture is not very liquid.

Note! When installing the supports, it is necessary to check their verticality using the building level.

The concrete around the support posts should be pierced several times with a bayonet spade to compact it. After the corner supports, all the remaining ones are installed in the same way, while their location, in order to avoid distortions, must be controlled by a pre-tensioned cord.

Control the location of the supports, guided by the cord

You can proceed to the installation of the grid only after waiting for the concrete to solidify completely, it will take about 7 days. If you do not want to wait, when strengthening the pillars, you can do without the use of mortar. To do this, a layer of rubble stone is poured into the free space in the pits, rammed, then a layer of soil is laid on top and rammed again. The finishing touch is another layer of stone. This method, as well as concrete, gives the fence sufficient stability.

Stretching the mesh and fixing it on poles

Tension fence scheme

If you purchased ordinary pipes, and not special supports already equipped with hooks, then after the foundation has dried, you will need to weld fasteners onto the poles. They can be nails, scraps of strong wire and other similar materials that can be bent into a hook shape.

Next, comes the turn of the installation of the grid. The chain-link is started from the first corner support, hanging the net on hooks. So that it does not bend, a metal rod with a cross section of at least 3 mm is inserted into the first row of cells and welded to the pole.

Then the grid is unwound further, to the next support. For uniform tension, it is better to do this by holding on to a reinforcing bar threaded vertically into the cells. It is more convenient to distribute the grid along the supports with two people, so that one participant follows the top edge, and the other follows the bottom. If possible, it is worth bringing another person to the case, who will put the chain-link on hooks in parallel.

It is better to strengthen the fence with rods welded to the posts along the top and bottom along its entire length, this will save the mesh from sagging. For a high fence, you can also weld a few stiffeners in the center.

Advice! Corner supports should not be bypassed with a single mesh web, it should be cut and each part should be fixed separately. This will reduce the load on the poles.

The fastening hooks must be bent

If during work you run out of a mesh roll in the middle of the span, then you can remove the wire from the extreme row of the chain-link, attach the canvas to the new one and connect them, weaving it between them. In this case, you will get a continuous canvas without seams.

After the entire mesh around the perimeter of the site is deployed, you need to bend the fastening hooks on the supports. If there is an unnecessary residue of material, step back one cell from the fixed edge and cut off the excess.

The final touch is painting the posts of the finished fence. If you have chosen a non-galvanized chain-link for the fence, then you should also paint it. It is advisable to twist the wire antennae that will remain on the upper edge of the mesh into several turns and bend down so that no one is injured about them. The fence is ready.

An example of the design of the upper edge of the fence

Sectional chain link fence

The device of a sectional fence from a chain-link also deserves separate consideration. The main difference between this design and the previous one is the presence of separate frame sections on which the mesh is fixed.
All preparatory work and the technology for installing supports are similar to those described above, however, it is recommended to choose stronger poles, since they will have to hold more weight.

For the frame, you will need to purchase a corner with a wall thickness of at least 4-5 mm. The dimensions of the frame are determined as follows - 10-15 cm are subtracted from the distance between the supporting pillars and the height of the pillar above the ground. The resulting parameters will be equal to the length and width of each section.

The corners are connected by welding at right angles to each other, so that a rectangle of the required size is formed.

Scheme of a sectional fence from a chain-link mesh

Next, straighten the chain-link roll. If its dimensions do not correspond to the frame, the excess can be cut off with a grinder. To fix the mesh, reinforcing bars must be inserted along all edges of the fragment, and then welded to the frame. Thus, you should get a section of four corner fragments, inside of which a mesh is welded onto the rods.

To fix the sections on the supports, small strips of metal are attached to the poles. The optimal length for them is from 15 to 30 cm, width is about 5 cm and thickness is 5 mm. The strips are welded in a horizontal position, retreating about 20 cm from both edges of the supports. The sections are then placed between the posts and welded to the strips. The finished fence is recommended to be painted.

The result of the work is a solid fence for your site.

Summing up, we can say that the independent construction of a chain-link fence is a simple task that almost everyone can do. All you need is a couple of helpers, materials and the right attitude. Successful work!

Today, there are many ways to enclose a site using a variety of materials. All of them have their own characteristics, indicators of strength and durability. Building a fence with your own hands in our time is not a problem. There is a wide choice of tools for the available materials and any kinds of works with them. However, all this costs a lot of money and labor costs. It is easier and much more economical to build a fence to mark the boundaries of a summer cottage, a place for building from a chain-link mesh - it is easier and much more economical than other types of fences.

Chain-link mesh - what kind of fruit

Chain-link - a mesh structural fabric obtained by mutual screwing of wire spirals. It is a budget material that helps to easily and cheaply solve the issue of limiting the site. It attracts consumers with its numerous advantages and ease of installation.

Characteristic features and its advantages

Mesh netting is a material that is indispensable in the country. It has a huge number of advantages, which include:

• affordable cost. Not every land owner can afford the construction of a fence made of expensive materials. The construction of such fences entails the expenditure of quite tangible funds. The chain-link mesh is inexpensive, does not require additional funds for construction, is easy to use;
• The right fabric will last a long time. For several years it will retain its strength, its original attractive appearance, it will not rust or bend;
• installation of the fence, where the chain-link mesh acts as a key element, is carried out quickly and simply;
• installation of a mesh netting is carried out without the participation of complex tools and fasteners;
• installation of a chain-link fence is elementary done by hand, because it can be assembled without welding equipment, which not everyone knows how to handle;
• Mesh design allows air to pass easily and does not cast a shadow, allowing plants to grow undisturbed;
• the material encloses the territory, playground or place for animals;
• requires only minor repairs;
• metal mesh fences do not need a capital frame and foundation;
• dampness and temperature fluctuations do not act on the canvas. Resists fire and power loads;
• chain-link fence is immune to ultraviolet radiation;
• the material is not scarce, it is available in all building materials stores that offer chain-link for any purpose.

In addition to positive qualities, the material has a number of disadvantages. This is its transparency and discreet appearance, as well as the need for constant updating of the paint layer. If the product is chosen correctly, some of the shortcomings simply lose their relevance.

Which chain-link is better for a fence and its types

To choose the right blank for the fence, you need to study the parameters of the feedstock. These are the material, the type of spraying and the size of the cells. The chain-link is made of stainless steel and other metals. The stainless steel gives the web its rigidity, and when the mesh material is made from alternative metals, it bends well.

non-galvanized

The non-galvanized chain-link has a wire cross section of 1.2-5.0 mm, the size of the cells is from 50 to 100 mm. The mesh is cheap, but metal that is not covered with a protective film quickly loses its appearance and rusts, so it must be tinted to protect it from moisture.

galvanized

This mesh is made of rods with a cross section of 1.6-5.0 mm, with cells from 50 to 100 mm. The material does not require protection, including anti-corrosion. Galvanizing is carried out by hot or electrolytic methods, giving the material additional strength.

plasticized

The plasticized mesh is based on a metal wire coated with polymers. Wire thickness - 2.5-2.8 mm, mesh size - from 25 to 50 mm. Such a canvas looks presentable, stylish and serves its owners for a very long time. Spraying can be of different shades, which gives scope for the implementation of the color design of your site.

When buying a material, it is imperative to check the product certificate, because if you make a mistake, you can get a product that is unable to withstand loads and weather conditions. When choosing a grid, one must take into account that the best mesh size for a fence is considered to be 50 × 50 mm. For the purpose of fencing walking areas, pens and enclosures for animals and birds, you should not choose a small comb, as the fence will be too heavy and warp.

The device of fences from a chain-link mesh according to the type of frame

When preparing to put up a frame fence, you need to decide on the elements of the frame and how to attach the chain-link mesh to metal, brick or other pillars.

Tension fence

The tension fence is very easy to make. The technology for installing such a fence involves the following steps: installing poles and preparing a chain-link that is attached to them. The mesh can be pulled manually, but as a result, it will then begin to sag. Installation of a tension mesh fence can be structurally simplified, avoiding subsidence. Broach significantly strengthens the fence. For this, high strength wire is used, it is threaded through the edge of the chain-link, and the mesh does not sag.

A fence made of chain-link mesh in sections is more expensive than a stretch one. A lot of money will be spent on the purchase of additional components, such as a corner for the skeleton. First you need to make sections. The section of the future chain-link fence is an integral unit of the entire fence. True, its formation will take additional time and money. But such a design will be much more reliable than a tension one, it is practical and durable. A fence of the described type will work well on uneven terrain, in addition, the construction of strong fences from a chain-link mesh is possible without preliminary soil preparation.

What poles can be used to build a chain-link fence

It is important which posts will be chosen for the fence. The mesh has a relatively low weight, which makes it possible to use any support.

Metal racks are a versatile option, but such supports will sometimes need to be tinted. A hollow profile goes to the supporting pillars. Chain-link fences are made using round posts (diameter 60 mm) or rectangular ones (section 40 × 60 mm).

Another easy way is to make fences on wooden supports from chain-link mesh, but this option has a minus. The tree reacts very poorly to temperature changes, rain and snow. A tree of dense species (oak, elm), which could be suitable for a fence, is very expensive. But a more democratic pine, treated accordingly, can last a long time.

You can put a fence on a brick. Although it will be too expensive for a mesh material. Such supports are usually not used because they need a foundation.

It is quite affordable to make a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands in the country with the use of concrete. Concrete poles are cheaper than brick ones. In the construction hypermarket, you can take ready-made blanks and deliver them. To fix the mesh on a concrete pole, special hooks or welding are used. It is these fasteners that hold the entire fence. During installation, the mesh must be fixed in a stressed state.

Asbestos-cement pipes can also serve as excellent fence supports. The material has an affordable price and does not rot. However, the installation of the grid will require additional clamps and clamps. Pipes require plugs that cover their tops from moisture. Otherwise, the pipes will break at low temperatures. The number of supports is commensurate with the size of the territory and the specifics of the area. The optimal distance between the posts is approximately 2.5 m.

How to make a chain link fence. Blueprints

The construction of a chain-link fence does not require any special knowledge and skills. To get started, you will need to assemble a set of necessary tools, armed with reference books. Construction is carried out in two ways:

• using welding;
• without welding.

Not every owner of private land knows how to work with welding equipment, so it is better to prefer construction technology without welding. The structure erected in this way will not be inferior to welded in strength. Tools and materials for work:

• chain-link mesh of any variety, depending on the desire of the owner and the available funds;
• poles for supports (metal, wooden, concrete);
• special hooks for fastening;
• crushed stone, cement, sand;
• building level, shovel, tape measure, drill, hammer;
• screws, nails, bolts.

Before starting construction, you should prepare a drawing or sketch of the finished fence, taking into account important points.

1. The main features of the terrain of the site with nearby roads, the location of vegetation, existing buildings.
2. Specific features: the presence of slopes and hills. The information will help you decide what to do next - level the landscape or build a special fence (cascade).
3. Fence length. Its width is determined by the grid parameters.
4. The breakdown of the length into segments separated by supports. Drawing their location.

The design includes an important point about choosing the type of fence and the basis for the mesh, as well as whether fence sections will be made and used from the selected chain-link mesh.

Calculation of the required amount

The footage of the purchased product (grid) is calculated based on the length of the perimeter. The chain-link is on sale rolls (10 linear meters). Average prices:

• galvanized chain-link (50 × 50 × 2 mm) - 54 rubles per square meter;
• non-galvanized chain-link (50 × 50 × 2 mm) - 48 rubles per square meter;
• with the application of polymers (50 × 50 × 2.2 mm) - from 220 rubles per square meter.

The length of the wire for stretching is equal to the perimeter multiplied by two. In the case when an additional chord in the middle is conceived, - by three. The number of supports is calculated based on the length and width of the site. The standard distance between supports is approximately 2.5 meters. If you set a larger distance, the mesh may sag. Sectional fences from any chain-link mesh involve the use of a profile corner, the amount of which is calculated as the perimeter of the core, multiplied by the number of sections. The number of fasteners (clamps for attaching the mesh, hooks) is determined by the selected connection method.

How to stretch a chain-link mesh on a fence: installation of different types of mesh

The main tasks of the builder are to provide tension and prevent sagging. After fixing the canvas along the entire length of the hedge, it is necessary to check the corners at which the presence of distortions will be noticeable. To build a section fence, you need to learn how to make them, which can be difficult for a beginner. The following steps should be taken:

• metal corners are connected to the frame. The length is equal to the size of the support, and the width is equal to the distance between them;
• the corner is cut into blanks;
• the frame is welded from the corner;
• a piece of the desired size is taken from the roll;
• the sides of this segment are fixed with reinforcement. This makes it possible to pull the chain-link to the corners of the frame;
• the bar is connected to the frame by welding.

The second option involves welding hooks (3 mm) inside the corner, on which the chain-link will be pulled. The disadvantage of this method is the possible slippage of the material. To mount the finished frame, it is necessary to weld metal strips to the support, to which it will be attached. It is quite difficult to make a frame fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands. During the preparation process, it may be difficult to:

• make the sections the same;
• install a piece of material without sagging;
• perform welding without experience;
• install sections.

Stretch

One of the simple options for a country fence is a stretch fence. The method is good for beginners, although it is inferior to the rest in terms of aesthetics. The mesh is stretched and attached directly to the supports. Fastening the chain-link to the posts can be simplified by making corners. The cost of the material for the corners is low, the option will turn out to be quite budgetary.

with wire

This type of fence is built very quickly. To prevent sagging of the upper edge, a wire (steel or sheathed) is pulled along the first row of the fence. The process itself does not take much time. A loop is made at the end of the wire and put on a support. The material is pushed into the cells of the grid and so on until the next support, on which it is necessary to make a new loop or wrap the wire around it. The tension can be provided with twists and a bar.

With welded wire

A bar (6-8 mm), cut to the size of the span, is threaded along the edge of the chain-link. The ends are welded to the supports. Possessing rigidity, the rod does not allow the grid to sag and keeps the horizontal. To ensure strength, you should buy a chain-link with a curved edge. She holds the edge well even without the addition.

With guide rails

To give the fence strength and solidity, it is sometimes reinforced with two guides located longitudinally. You can choose any material for them: wooden beam, pipe and others. When the soil freezes, a tree, being more elastic, can withstand the load on the poles, but metal pipes can simply burst. But in general, such a fence has a large margin of safety.

Fixing the canvas from sagging

To keep the web in a fixed position, it is necessary to lay two reinforcing belts at the top and bottom. Reinforcement elements are threaded into the canvas at a distance of 20 cm from the edges and welded to the supports. This design will securely hold the canvas, preventing it from sagging during operation.

Fence Installation

Installation of the fence must begin from the corner. The mesh roll is unwound and placed at the first support. The edge of the chain-link or its contour is fixed to the welded hooks on the support. Unwinding a roll of material to the size of the span, a piece of reinforcement is threaded in the place of support, which makes it possible to stretch the chain-link well. The stretched material is fixed on the next support with hooks. Actions are repeated until the very end of the perimeter.

How to install a mesh fence on problematic surfaces

If the relief of the site has features (slopes, hills), then when buying materials and choosing the type of fence, you need to stop at the sectional version. A fence with a framed corner will allow you to build a fence and not carry out preliminary work on leveling the ground. A fence of sections can be easily installed with a solid elevation difference and the presence of slopes in the territory.

How to decorate a chain link fence

The chain-link fence in itself does not differ in special beauty and grace. If you wish, you can apply creative methods for transforming your hedge. The easiest way is its decorative landscaping. Climbing plants can be planted along the fence, which will eventually braid the fence and make it beautiful and impervious to prying eyes. You can use hanging pots with plants, hanging them along the perimeter. While the plants have not ennobled the fence, you can place products with decorative weaving on the spans of the fence. Openwork weaving is made of thin wire on the surface of the canvas with large cells.

How to make a chain link fence opaque

In order to somehow reduce the visibility of the territory through a chain-link fence, it is enough to show a little imagination. The fence can be camouflaged with a camouflage net, which will make the fence original and cover the view. This option will appeal to the military, including the former. Using simple ropes of different quality, you can weave flower arrangements in separate sections, arranging them in accordance with the overall design. Fragments of colored plastic bottles can be inserted into the mesh with large cells, which will reduce visibility and not disturb air circulation.