Is it possible to plaster wood concrete with gypsum plaster. Materials and technologies for exterior decoration of a house made of wood concrete. Wood concrete plastering technology

Create a quality finish layer from the hardened building composition almost every individual developer who is familiar with the basic stages of work is capable of doing it with his own hands.

If the finishing plaster of the walls is carried out on uneven surfaces, then in without fail established special lighthouses, however, in the presence of planes without significant differences, the profiles may not be installed.

Materials and tools

plaster mixture acts as a base. Cement products are used for, and inside - based on gypsum.
Metal guide profiles will serve as a guide when coating the side planes.
Perforator with a special nozzle for the preparation of the solution will allow for high-quality stirring.
Dowels and screws will be needed to fix the beacons. The first of them are needed to fasten the elements to the concrete surface.
Building level a length of at least two meters will allow alignment of the guide plates.
Cutting tool like a grinder or metal shears is necessary for cutting profiles.
A hammer required for driving dowels into concrete wall. It is advisable to use a light tool.
aluminum rule 2-2.5 meters long is necessary to level the applied layer.
Putty knife 15 centimeters wide will be the main tool for throwing the finished mixture.
wooden grater allows for high-quality rubbing, so that the surface becomes smoother.
Primer used to improve the adhesion between the lateral planes and the layer being applied.
A container like a bucket, basin or trough needed for mixing the solution and its delivery to the place of work.
Roller or brush required for applying primer. You will also need a small container.
The measurement is made using a conventional tape measure., the length of which should not be less than 3 meters.

Addition!
When simple plastering of walls is carried out indoors or with outside, gloves must be used to protect hands from sticking of the solution.

Basic process steps

This instruction is intended to consider the main stages of the work, so that it is easier for novice masters to navigate when applying the mixture. According to this scheme, both internal and external wall plastering is performed. In this case, the material of the side planes special significance does not, however, there are some subtleties when working with individual views.

Surface priming

It is possible to improve the adhesion of the solution to the base if the processing of vertical faces is carried out. special composition. On smooth surfaces, Betonokontakt is usually applied. When arbolite walls are plastered, as a rule, a primer with deep penetration is used, because this material has a porous structure.

Installation of guide profiles

To determine the location, preliminary marking is carried out, after which the elements are attached to the surface.

The main advantage of using guide plates is the ability to quickly install, with no special skills required.

First side surface examined for vertical deviation, for which a two-meter level is applied to it. If there are depressions and bumps, then they are marked with a marker.
Next, marking is carried out to determine the location of the metal beacons. The distance between vertical elements depends on the length of the rule used.
Self-tapping screws are fixed along the edges using dowels. If it is supposed to plaster the walls from a bar, then the fasteners are screwed directly into the side plane.
Before metal profiles are installed, all self-tapping screws must be aligned. To do this, the cord is usually stretched diagonally. With this option, it is possible to correctly set the beacons.
After the installation of landmarks in the form of self-tapping screws, the profiles are fastened. Small heaps of the mixture are made between the fasteners. Beacons by pressing through the rule deepen to the stop.

Note!
When plastering walls in Khrushchev is carried out, the evenness of the guide profiles is given Special attention, since most often such structures have curved surfaces.

Do-it-yourself mixture application

At this stage, the side planes are coated with a special composition, the price of which is usually not very high, if it is not necessary to improve the characteristics of the finishing layer.

To avoid deformation wooden rule, it is desirable to cover it waterproof paint, then the main tool will serve for a long time.

Immediately after installing the beacons, you can begin to apply the solution to the side faces of the room. To do this, a third of the bucket is filled with water, and a dry mixture is added inside and thoroughly mixed with a mixer.
Using the cape method, the finished composition is applied to a vertical surface. A spatula is used as a basic tool. The layer of the finishing solution must be sufficiently dense and protrude beyond the profiles.
With the help of the mixture is evenly distributed between the vertical beacons. The movement is carried out from the bottom up along a zigzag trajectory, and the solution is thrown from above.

Attention!
If shell rock walls are plastered, it is recommended that wetting be done before applying the mixture, otherwise finishing material will quickly release moisture and crack.

Surface grouting

The final leveling of the finishing layer is carried out after its hardening. During the work, a wooden grater is used, which is applied to the side plane and moves in a circle, producing high-quality grinding.

The irregularities and bubbles that have appeared must be sealed without fail, because this is due to the fact that the main composition does not completely reach the side surface.
When plastering walls from wood concrete is carried out, with outer side it is recommended to use a vapor-proof mixture with good moisture resistance characteristics.
If the differences on the same plane exceed 5 cm, then you need to apply the solution in two layers. The first of them is thrown immediately without prior alignment, and the second is laid in a couple of days.

Application conditions

The basic requirements for wall plastering are reflected in SNiP III-21-73, and the quality of work is divided into three levels.

For normal finishes, some deviations are allowed, not exceeding 3 mm per square meter. At the same time, such irregularities should be no more than 15 mm per full height premises.
There are more stringent requirements for improved plaster. Vertically, you can leave a slope of less than 2 mm per square meter, but not more than 5 mm relative to the entire height of the room.
The most stringent requirements apply to high-quality side cladding. Deviations should not exceed 1 mm per square meter. As for the height of the room, a misalignment of not more than 5 mm is allowed.

additional information

This guide covers the main steps wet finish premises and facades, as well as the requirements for the quality of work performed. To independently create a high-quality finishing layer, it is enough to study the sequence of basic operations. In addition, a video is provided in this article for a visual lesson.

Arbolite is a very unique building material and is used for its decoration. various technologies. Plastering walls from wood concrete plaster mixture is the first and main way exterior finish at home. The principle of finishing is that it is necessary to avoid materials that can harm the wood concrete. Due to the fact that this building material has a large-pore structure, its finishing must be carried out to prevent the penetration of moisture. If moisture gets inside the material, it will begin to collapse from the inside. The type of protective and finishing coating is determined in each case depending on the purpose of the building, its location, as well as on the amount of funds invested in construction.

Since the surface of the wood concrete is rough, the adhesion to the plaster will be as high as possible. At the same time, there is no need for preliminary preparation material for finishing. Although many experts recommend stuffing metal mesh for better grip. It is also believed that this can significantly extend the life of the finish. Fixing the mesh is very simple, with nails and a hammer.

There are two options: either we use only rough plaster, which we close with a ventilated facade, or we veneer the block with a rough and finishing mortar. The first layer always plays a protective role, the second (finishing decorative mixture or installation of panels / lining) - aesthetic.

Now that it is clear which solutions we need, we will choose the most suitable one.

Rough plaster

Cement-sand mixture. The most common and cheap look plaster mortar. For standard width wood concrete walls (300 mm) need a layer of 20 mm. It doesn’t “breathe” very well, but it’s suitable for rough cladding (especially when it comes to garages, workshops, wood concrete baths);
Lime plaster. The base is lime. Slightly more expensive than cement plaster, but has greater vapor permeability. Fully retains the properties of wood concrete, and protects no worse than cement-sand. After applying a layer of plaster putty on the primer. After these works, some developers paint the walls with facade paint.

Tellingly, a reinforcing mesh for plastering walls made of wood concrete is not needed: the large-pore structure of the block already plays its role. If the wood concrete block is produced according to the correct technology (specifically, without mold lubrication with industrial oil), then it will not greasy spots, and the plaster will lie evenly and firmly.

Finishing plaster

Finishing solutions are, in any case, those that are applied to the rough layer: in this case, they can play a role decorative coating or intended for painting. Accordingly, they are divided into two large groups - decorative and ordinary. The second type also requires the use of a primer - to adhere to the paint.

Gypsum plaster. The main component is gypsum with various fillers;
Decorative plaster. It happens lime, acrylic, latex. Acrylic plaster is one of the most convenient. It exists in the form of ready-made mixtures. Has a very good vapor permeability, which is a great advantage for wood concrete.

So, how can you plaster walls from wood concrete

Rough plaster + crate + ventilated facade
Water repellent + crate + ventilated facade
Rough plaster + finishing plaster+ primer + paint
Rough plaster + finishing decorative plaster

Some experts add to the usual cement mortar lime paste (about 0.5-1 parts) or water-retaining additives.

However, it should be borne in mind that when adding some additives (polystyrene foam, foam glass or slag), the walls will “breathe” worse. This is due to the different vapor permeability of materials, resulting in the formation of a dew point (the walls freeze through and become covered with wet spots inside). If you do not want to disturb the air permeability of wood concrete, then it is recommended to use expanded clay, barite, perlite or vermiculite as additives.

Plastering walls from wood concrete

The process of applying external plaster on wood concrete differs from the processing of other concretes in its simplicity. Apply protective layer it is possible almost immediately after construction, it is not necessary to process the surface or use reinforcing meshes.

The use of a reinforcing mesh in the process of plastering walls from wood concrete will increase the service life of the finish, but even without it, the plaster composition will firmly “stick” to the surface.

Considering that wood concrete does not require either insulation or reinforcing mesh, in the end it will turn out to be more economical material, but the consumption of rough plaster on the wall will be twice as much as, say, on ordinary concrete. This is because the solution also enters the cavities between the chips, and not just on the surface itself. True, due to this there will be better adhesion to the block.

Plastering walls from wood concrete can be done using only one regulations or with the use of auxiliary elements - lighthouses. If you use the rule without resorting to beacons, you can save a lot of time and labor. There is no special procedure there: the mixture is thrown in a small layer and leveled special tools- the rule.

Rule for plaster

When installing beacons, several points are already required:

At a distance of 300–400 mm from the corners, marks are made on the wall and lines are drawn perpendicular to the floor;
Other lines are also drawn between them, with equal intervals between them. The optimal segments are 1.5 meters each (in any case, a little less than the length of the rule);
Pieces of gypsum or a specialized mixture for fixing beacons are placed on the drawn lines;
Beacons themselves are attached to pieces of gypsum - segments metal profile;
Between the beacons, plaster is thrown with a layer of no more than 50 mm (in the case of a good wood concrete block that does not need to be leveled, this is 20 mm);
The rule is to level the mixture on the wall: add the missing one or remove the excess.

Beacons for plaster

After the mixture has completely dried, the beacons are dismantled (which is why they are not fixed thoroughly), and in place of the torn beacons, they are re-carried out plastering work. They can be left if the plaster is just rough finish under the device of a hinged facade.

The use of lighthouses (a kind of "rulers" from a metal profile on the wall) is a measure for those cases where the surface does not have an ideal geometry: usually this applies to old houses. Then they serve as an additional (apart from the level) reference point. The problem is this: after the plaster has completely dried, the beacons will need to be removed and the left "grooves" plastered.

If you are finishing a newly built house from wood concrete, there is no need for beacons - good block ideal geometry, and deviations in the surface do not exceed 3 mm. With such an indicator, the rule will do just fine.

What are the advantages of plastering walls from wood concrete

When applying external plaster, you can significantly improve, since such a coating performs the following functions:

Heat shield. The house retains heat without the effect of "steam room". Due to good vapor permeability, outdoor plaster allows the arbolite to "breathe";
Soundproof. If the plaster is not painted, it will reliably protect you from unwanted noise;
Waterproofing. Plastered wood concrete repels water, so rooms with high humidity(but not more than 70%) do not require additional finishing. To enhance the water-repellent properties when applying plaster, it is recommended to use a shotcrete machine;

Also, external plaster for wood concrete is required if aggressive acid vapors are exposed to the walls of the building.

In addition, the plastered facade of the building should be updated no more than once every 8-9 years. To do this, it is enough to “walk” along the walls with a primer, spending a minimum of money on this.

When building walls from wood concrete blocks, it must be remembered that wood concrete absorbs water very quickly. Therefore, before laying, the blocks must be wetted to avoid drying of the mortar, which leads to cracks. This is especially true in hot and dry weather. Recommendeduse a "warm" perlite-based mortar to avoid "cold bridges".

One of the best finishes wood concrete walls from the outside, in our opinion, is a ventilated facade. This is, on the one hand, the protection of the material from external influences and, on the other hand, the possibility for excess moisture not to accumulate inside, but to pass unhindered through the walls, leaving them dry.

Ventilated facade can be either hinged or brick with a gap of about 5 cm.

The most popular wood concrete finish is plaster. Perlite plaster is now very popular, which not only protects against blowing and improves appearance, but also gives significant insulation to the walls.

If you choose to do masonry mortar and plaster with perlite on its own, it is better to wet the perlite before mixing. Wet perlite is much easier to apply - it does not fly apart. In addition, perlite first absorbs water, then gives it back, which creates additional difficulties when preparing a solution with dry perlite.

FINISHING PRODUCTS FROM ARBOLITA

Finishing wood concrete products is one of the most important technological operations. The durability of the structures themselves, as well as the buildings that are built from them, largely depends on the quality of the finish. Field surveys of buildings for various purposes, carried out in various climatic zones ah of our country, showed that in structures with a good protective and finishing coating, arbolite has a stable humidity not exceeding 12%, and the buildings are in good condition. And vice versa, with low-quality protective and finishing coatings, a large number of cracks appear on the surfaces of structures, the textured layer peels off, and the structures themselves warp. The moisture content of wood concrete in such structures, regardless of the orientation of the walls and climatic zones, is usually high (more than 30%). With such humidity, the strength characteristics of arbolite sharply decrease, its deformability increases, thermophysical properties deteriorate, and conditions are created for its biological damage.

Due to the fact that wood concrete has a large-porous structure and high sorption surface moistening, structures made of this material must be covered with protective and finishing coatings. The type of protective and finishing coating is determined in each specific case, depending on the purpose of the building, its location, existing factory technology and economic feasibility.

Currently, cement-sand mortars, concrete, slab linings and paint coatings. To date, the finishing of wood concrete at some operating enterprises is carried out by the method of invoice cement-sand layer 15-20 mm thick and, as a rule, trim one side.

At several enterprises of the Ministry of Forestry of the USSR, bilateral invoices are carried out. Most often, buildings erected from wood concrete structures are finished on construction site. In this case, the walls of arbolite structures are plastered cement-sand mortar, then on the outside, whitewash with the addition of pigments is used (less often, paintwork is used), and on the inside, depending on the purpose of the building, wallpaper is glued or painted with various paint compositions. However, the quality of such finishing is not always high.

In order to protect wood concrete in structures from moisture, we conducted research to find effective protective and finishing coatings. For research, such protective coatings were chosen that have proven themselves well in the process of operation with cellular concrete. These are paints TsPHV, KCh-26, VA-27A, latex-organosilicon whitewash, lime-organosilicon whitewash, etc.

The quality of the finish was evaluated by the frost resistance of the protective and finishing coatings and the arbolite protected by them, by their resistance to alternating wetting and drying, by reducing the adhesion strength of the textured layer and the arbolite from these influences. As a result of the research, the following has been established:

the best resistance to frost was shown by the coating with cement-perchlorvinyl paint both on the textured layer and on the wood concrete;

paints KCh-26 and VA-27 A, not intended for exterior coatings, but showing sufficient resistance to frost, can be recommended for finishing and protecting the internal surface of enclosing structures of unheated buildings with a wet operating mode;

The latex-organosilicon whitewash recommended by the "Guidelines for the design and manufacture of wood concrete products" can also be used for protective and finishing coating of wood concrete structures. However, it should be noted that during its preparation and application, difficulties arise associated with the ongoing reaction between the components of the protein and its separation. At the same time, it was noted in the studies that on the coating with VA-27A paint, after 45 cycles, small cracks. The formation of cracks on the coating with KCh-26 paint began already after 35 cycles, and the latex-organosilicon paint began to flake off in places from the textured layer after 40 cycles.

Thus, the most durable in this regard is the coating with cement-perchlorvinyl paint both on the wood concrete and on the textured layer.

The results of studies of the frost resistance of textured layers with various chemical additives and protective and finishing coatings also showed the following:

a decrease in water absorption through the textured layer helps to increase its frost resistance;

the studied additives introduced into the composition of the textured layer have a positive effect both on reducing water absorption through the textured layer and on the adhesion of the textured layer with wood concrete; the best results were obtained with the introduction of polyvinyl acetate emulsion, calcium nitrate and GKZH-94 into the textured layer;

During the studies, an increase in the adhesion forces of the textured layer with wood concrete was observed after testing the samples for frost resistance, which is probably due to the good waterproofing properties of these coatings, which cause low water absorption of the samples. This allows us to recommend such compositions for implementation in construction practice;

the adhesion strength of the textured layer with wood concrete decreases when moistened and dried, as does the strength of wood concrete, but more intensively. This is apparently due to the different magnitude of moisture deformations of the textured layer and wood concrete and the concentration of stresses in the boundary zone;

all protective and finishing coatings applied on the textured layer increase frost resistance and resistance to alternating wetting and drying of the textured layer compared to control samples uncoated in proportion to their decrease in water absorption through the textured layer.

The most effective coatings were found to be latex-organosilicon whitewash and TsPCV paint, less effective coatings were calcium stearate and lime-organosilicon paint. good protection from moisture provides treatment of the textured layer with water repellents and polymeric materials(GKZH-10, PVA, SKS-65GP latex).

Studies have shown that coating the surfaces of wood concrete structures significantly increases the durability of this material, gives the products and buildings built from them a beautiful appearance. However, these types of finishes have not yet been found. wide application in the production of wood concrete, as they are scarce and quite expensive. Taking into account all these factors, we proposed the protection and finishing of wood concrete with concrete layers with the simultaneous installation of a decorative coating of ceramic breccia.

From the book by A.S. Shcherbakov, L.P. Khoroshun, V.S. Podchufarov “Arbolit. Improving the quality and durability "1979.

Arbolite blocks- this is construction material, for the manufacture of which they use crushed waste from woodworking and sawmilling, water and high-quality cement. A small percentage of chemical additives is allowed. Depending on the components in the composition, they distinguish different types finished products:
- made from sawdust.

To give them greater strength, manufacturers increase mass fraction cement. Due to this, strength increases, but the heat saving of the finished product decreases:

Made from wood chips. A high percentage of wood chips provides high elasticity and strength of the blocks.
From a mixture of wood chips and sawdust. This type has average strength and thermal conductivity.

By purpose and application, finished products can be divided into the following groups:

Structural- for the main masonry of walls (walls), the construction of partitions, the device of an armored belt, use as a lintel over windows and doors.
Thermal insulation- for floor and wall insulation (arbolite thermal panels).

Specifications

Arbolit is produced in the form of wall blocks gray color 500x300x200 mm in size and partition walls 500x150x200 mm in size. The thermal panel has dimensions of 820x620x80 mm.

Here are some of the main specifications wood concrete and compare them with other building materials:

The average density is 650 kg / m3, and for structural blocks it is higher than for heat-insulating ones, and is 700-750 kg / m3. The density of wood concrete is higher than that of wood, aerated concrete, but less than that of brick and expanded clay concrete.
The material has a low thermal conductivity - 0.12 W / (m x ° C). Of all building materials, only natural wood has the lowest thermal conductivity.
The compressive strength of the material is 0.5–8.5 MPa. For aerated concrete, the tensile strength is 2.5–15 MPa, for ceramic bricks 2.5–25 MPa.
The frost resistance index is 25–100 cycles. It is the largest among all building materials, with the exception of wood.
Water absorption of wood concrete - 40–85% by weight. This is the maximum. For other building materials, the average percentage of water absorption is 16%.
The material has shrinkage at the level of 0.4–0.5%.
Bending strength is 0.7–1.0 MPa. It is the bending strength that distinguishes wood concrete among others. cellular concrete. With the same load, aerated concrete or foam concrete can crack, but they will not appear in wood concrete.

Advantages and disadvantages

Arbolite blocks have many advantages:

They have very low thermal conductivity, which allows the construction of objects without them. additional insulation even in northern regions. The high heat capacity of arbolite provides savings of thirty percent of energy resources for space heating during subsequent operation.
They have high soundproofing properties. The sound absorption coefficient of wood concrete is 0.17–0.6 units, wood has a coefficient of 0.06–0.1, and brick is not higher than 0.04. This feature of the material has acquired particular relevance due to the increased density of building houses at the present time.
Arbolite is an environmentally friendly material. Made up of 80% wood, it does not emit harmful substances when heated, and is safe for human and animal health.
non-combustible(belongs to the group of slow-burning substances), are hardly flammable and low-smoke-forming.
Not subject to cracking undemanding to the conditions of transportation and have high performance strength. Wood concrete walls are very strong and reliable;
The arbolite block has a relatively a light weight, which makes it possible to use inexpensive .
Blocks are very flexible. due to the ability of wood chips in their composition to shrink and recover without losing their original properties.
When erecting small objects, you can not use masonry reinforcement and the device of monolithic belts.
They do not undergo rotting processes, are resistant to mold, even in conditions of high humidity. The walls of the house can "breathe" due to the porous structure and high content wood included.
The material is easy to process. You can easily drive a nail or screw a screw into it, drill, saw or cut it to the desired size.
It takes much less time to lay a wall made of wood concrete than when using other materials.

Of course, no building material can be perfect in all respects. And, along with everyone else, wood concrete has its drawbacks:

Availability on the market a large number handicraft products. When buying wood concrete, especially in the regions, there is a high probability of acquiring low-quality goods.
When applied manual labor in production, the geometry of finished products is violated, which leads to the need to increase the size of the seams. This reduces the speed of laying the material, requires more mortar for masonry and causes freezing of the joints.
Wood concrete is more expensive than foam concrete or aerated concrete by about one and a half times. It's caused big share the use of manual labor and insufficient automation of the production process.
Blocks do not have an attractive decorative appearance. It is mandatory to apply wall decoration with plaster, hinged systems or wood trim.

The choice of materials for finishing is limited, as it is necessary to preserve the environmental friendliness of wood concrete.

Features of laying wood concrete blocks

In connection with big size blocks of wood concrete laying is done in 1 or 0.5 blocks. For the solution, it is necessary to prepare Portland cement, water and sand.

The first block is laid in the corner of the building, the solution is applied to the prepared foundation surface. On myself building block you don't have to put it down. The recommended thickness of the solution is no more than 2 mm. Then the level is leveled, and the block is pressed tightly. Excess solution is removed with a trowel.

Subsequent blocks are stacked side by side, however, a solution must also be applied to the side parts in contact with them. Laying is carried out in several rows in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the blocks is the same. When applying the solution to the surface of the material, it is necessary to leave a thermal break to maintain the low thermal conductivity of the material.

Do not rush into the construction process. Experts recommend laying no more than three rows per day, and adding special additives to the solution to increase strength and speed up the drying process. After a day, the wood concrete is securely fixed, and you can continue laying.

If the subsequent finishing of facades is planned using frame finish or brick cladding, then in the process of laying arbolite blocks, it is necessary to make connecting reinforcement in the walls, which can then be mounted in the finish to provide a bond between the wall and the finish.

Sections of the article:

Due to the fact that wood concrete blocks have a porous structure, their surface strongly absorbs moisture, and this in turn complicates the plastering process. However, arbolite plastering is a feasible process for self-fulfillment, just need to follow existing technology.

Therefore, if you are wondering how to plaster wood concrete house inside and out, then this article should certainly help you in this difficult process.

And, first of all, questions should be considered regarding the composition of the plaster for wood concrete. The fact is that, as mentioned above, wood concrete absorbs moisture well, therefore, the compositions for plastering it need somewhat different ones. And to be more specific, then the preparation of the base of the walls before plastering the wood concrete is a little different.

Arbolite walls can be plastered with various building mixtures, here is a list of just a few of them:

Cement plaster, the basis of which is sand with cement in a ratio of 3 to 1. When using cement plaster for wood concrete, a layer thickness of 2 or more centimeters is allowed.
Gypsum plaster, used for finishing internal walls from arbolite.
Lime plaster, consisting of lime, is also used for plastering wood concrete.

Having chosen one or another mixture for finishing arbolite walls, you can begin to perform this actually difficult process. What should be taken into account during its execution?

The porosity of wood concrete is both a plus and at the same time a significant minus. The advantage is that any adhesive sticks very well to such a surface. plaster mortar. The disadvantage is that moisture penetrates very quickly into the pores of the material, and mortar dries up in a matter of time.

A primer or abundant wetting of the surface of the walls from wood concrete before plastering them can help in solving this problem.

In general, plastering wood concrete is practically no different from finishing concrete or brick walls. First, surface preparation is performed, then follows (in some cases, reinforcement can be abandoned).

First, it is recommended to sketch the so-called initial layer of plaster - spray. Accordingly, special ones are used to implement this work. Well, after that, the walls are covered with a second layer of plaster, and then the most last layer"Nakryvka" with subsequent grouting of the surface.