Once upon a time, decorating the interior with stucco and bas-reliefs was only available high nobility, rich people and big temples. Nowadays, making a bas-relief with your own hands is just a matter of labor and patience. Advances in modern technology make it possible to bypass the technical difficulties of creating stucco at home for people who do not have an artistic education, but are not devoid of artistic taste and imagination. Create bas-reliefs like those in Fig. Below, it is quite possible for a patient and attentive amateur.

Bas-reliefs of modern work

New materials

In addition to the traditional material for stucco - gypsum - do-it-yourself stucco can be created from modern building mixtures with polymer additives; they are often combined under the general name “acrylic plasters”. You can learn how to increase the volume of a bas-relief using construction putty compounds from the video:

Video: sculpting a bas-relief from putty

Hobbyists also use a basic composition of architectural plaster, acrylic plaster and PVA glue in a ratio of 1:1:0.5 by volume. Gypsum and plaster mixture mix dry and cover with water, i.e. add water to the mixture, not the other way around. Bring to a dough consistency like yogurt or low-fat kefir and add PVA, stirring thoroughly. The thickness of the mixture is selected according to the type of work with it, in which case which mixture is needed, see below.

The bas-relief on the wall is made using the technique of low relief (top left in the figure) or high, with protruding figures (top right). A high bas-relief is also called high relief. Technically, high relief differs from low bas-relief in that the figures are sculpted like a round sculpture (see below). Low bas-relief looks good in any lighting, except very dim, and high relief looks better in diffused light.

Types of bas-reliefs

In living spaces, which are often lit quite brightly and evenly, it makes sense to use a mixed bas-relief technique (bottom left), without making the figures very convex. How to sculpt the bas-relief “Klimt Tree”, see for example. Master class video below:

Video: master class bas-relief “Klimt’s Tree”

The peculiarity of this work is that it uses almost all the techniques for creating bas-reliefs at home. Having become familiar with them clearly, it will be easier for you to understand further and apply them in any of the techniques described below.

Note: At one time, the Austrian artist Gustav Klimt created the composition “Tree of Life”. Her style is so unique that the expression “Klimt tree” has become popular.

Reverse bas-relief, or counter-relief (bottom center in the top figure) is no longer stucco, but stone carving (the contours are cut in depth), which is technically much more complex. Therefore, we only note that the counter-relief needs bright and sharp oblique light, because the image actually draws a shadow. There is also a special type of bas-relief - shadow, lower right, where the entire pattern is formed by shadows from small and minute protrusions and depressions of a certain shape. When the direction and angle of incidence of light changes, the pattern changes, even changing facial expressions throughout the day. Shadow bas-relief is the highest art and, alas, short-lived: the protrusions and depressions become clogged and lose their shape when cleaned. The drawing fades, blurs, disappears.

Bas-relief techniques

Stucco molding on the wall at home can be done in one of the following ways, in order of increasing technical complexity:

• Plastering of free ones, i.e. models that were not initially fixed to the supporting surface and cannot be removed;
• Plastering of non-removable models on the supporting surface. These methods are especially good for beginners, because... allow you to receive the corresponding high and low relief, without risking the need to redo the whole work again in case of failure;
• Reverse casting from plaster according to the model to be removed. The method is somewhat more labor-intensive, but also suitable for beginners, because... You can pore over the model as much as you like until it is perfect. In addition, in one mold (form, mold) made according to a model, up to 20-30 identical products can be cast at home;
• Artistic plaster stucco in place, i.e. directly on the supporting surface. It requires thorough skills, but makes it possible to create large relief panels covering the entire wall, with contours around corners, going to the ceiling, and complete freedom of creative expression.

In place or on a sheet?

It is possible to make a bas-relief using methods 2-4 both locally and in parts on a table or floor. An excellent basis for fragments of a prefabricated bas-relief - plasterboard sheet, gypsum board It is prepared as a base surface (see below), on separate sheets or in pieces of the desired shape, parts of the overall picture or complete compositions are displayed (see figure), and mounted on a leveled wall.

Relief panels

The fastener heads and joints of the fragments are puttied with a base compound, then plastered and rubbed to match the base texture. Another good thing about prefabricated bas-reliefs is that a piece damaged due to inexperience can be remade without touching the rest. The bad thing is that the whole composition turns out to be heavy; It is impossible to attach a prefabricated bas-relief to weak walls (plasterboard, PHB partitions, etc.). however, it is generally not recommended to load weak walls with bas-reliefs - the load-bearing base must be stronger than the material of the composition.

Tool

Making a bas-relief will require acquiring some special tool. Not very expensive, but you can’t count on success without it. First of all, half a rubber ball for kneading the next portion of the working mixture. Everything falls out of it at once if you turn it inside out, and dried residues fly off in the same way. The bas-relief will be stronger and more beautiful the faster it is formed, i.e. the further the working solution is from the beginning of setting. The kneading ball eliminates wasted time on shaking, scraping, etc. to zero. It is also more convenient to collect the solution in small portions from a ball, because... There are no corners inside. For the same reason, the batch turns out to be more homogeneous (homogeneous), and this is one of the most important factors the ultimate artistry of the bas-relief.

Tools for making bas-reliefs from gypsum

Next, you will need spatulas for modeling - palette knives. Set of 6 pieces (item 1 in the figure) is enough for a start. For forming bunches of grapes, scales, etc. Convex-concave spatulas are also needed. Sets with these are expensive, up to 30 thousand rubles. (!) for a set of 48 items, so amateurs often use spoons of different sizes instead (coffee, tea, dessert, table), with rounded and pointed tips. However, you can’t just create low relief with spoons; the bend of the handle gets in the way. Therefore, for each spatula, take 2 spoons made of aluminum and other ductile metal. One is used as is, it will be a convex spatula. And the other handle at the scoop itself is twisted 180 degrees and bent back, you get a concave spatula.

Note: good convex-concave palette knives come out of disposable plastic spoons and forks. To obtain concave spatulas, their handles are heated with a lighter near the scoop, twisted and bent while heated.

You will also need another palette knife - an artistic knife, pos. 2. Painters use it to clean old paint from the palette, and the sculptors trim the edges, cut off the flash, and create a fine texture. A palette knife can be perfectly replaced with a wide shoe knife.

Next necessary tool– a confectionery syringe with nozzles (items 3 and 4) and, possibly, a 20 ml medical syringe without a needle. It is highly advisable to take a confectionery syringe with a trigger drive (item 4). Mixtures for bas-reliefs are not nearly as fluid as cream for cakes, and you need to form twigs, roses, leaves with a syringe (well, we’ve all seen how to decorate cakes) by holding it with both hands; Hold the instrument at the tip with your left hand.

Finally, you will need 2-3 flat painting brushes different sizes and the same number of round ones, the cheapest, made of ox-ear bristles. There is no point in buying expensive squirrel and kolin for bas-relief “for the sake of coolness”, they are too soft. You will also need a very hard and rough children's nylon brush for painting. Use brushes to create texture (see below) and plaster small areas of the bas-relief.

Working with and caring for the tool

Palette knives and brushes are dipped in water before adding the next portion of the mixture. Residues and drips on the working part are the key to spoiled work. After work, the syringe is disassembled and lowered into water in parts; Palette knives and brushes are also placed there. When the instrument becomes acidic, the remaining working materials are thoroughly washed off it. clean water. By the way, a properly cared for pastry syringe after working on the bas-relief is also suitable for use for its intended purpose. All instruments must be stored absolutely clean.

Bas-relief technologies

Creating a bas-relief on the walls in an apartment (or on plasterboard sheets, if the bas-relief is prefabricated) is carried out in stages as follows:

• The base surface is cleaned of old decoration, leveled with an accuracy of no worse than 2 mm/m, primed and covered with a base compound or any decorative plaster (see also below). GKL for prefabricated bas-relief does not require leveling;
• The background texture is applied to the base coating: with a foam rubber or fleecy roller, by “slapping” with foam rubber or felt, etc. At the same stage, the base is tinted, see below. If the base coat is decorative plaster, no texture or toning required;
• In one way or another (from those indicated above and described below), the relief is formed. During the formation of the relief, tinting is possible similar to that for the base;
• If necessary, the relief is painted over the top when completely dry. It is convenient to do surface painting with special paints for gypsum stucco– they are immediately shaded into very thin halftones with a damp sponge. Acrylic paints will give sharper color transitions;
• The completely dried relief is covered with styrene-butadiene latex (sold in construction stores). The colors on dried gypsum stucco fade, like on frescoes, and latex treatment restores their color;
• After 1-2 weeks, so that the excess latex is completely absorbed and evaporated, the finished relief is varnished with acrylic varnish as needed.

How to tint stucco?

From the video above it is clear that the stucco bas-relief needs to be formed in layers. To tint the base for the relief and, if necessary, its details, apply thin layers, 1-2 mm each. Typically, layers of thick, low-fat sour cream are applied with a brush and smoothed with a palette knife. The batch for each layer is tinted with a color (pigment) for plaster; the deeper, the darker, or vice versa. For example, for the bark of a tree they take a brown pigment of ever-decreasing concentration, and for leaves they add green pigment as they move outward. The next layer is applied to the set but still wet previous one. The texture with shades can be applied right there with a brush or then rubbed with sandpaper or rough sandpaper. large areas, wire brush. For more information on tinting gypsum stucco, see the following video.

Video: how to cover a bas-relief on a wall

"Free" plastering

This method is used to create high floral bas-reliefs or low patterned overlays from disposable paper napkins. From the latter, using an inverted plate or bowl greased with lanolin as a model, you can get a plaster vase, but its practical meaning is more than doubtful. The base solution described above is not used. It is durable, holds its shape well, but its color is not pure white. Also, tinting is not used due to excessive consumption of material; finished elements are painted.

For plastering, a liquid, almost watery solution of architectural plaster is prepared. The model is dipped in it ( artificial flower, napkin) and place it on a board covered plastic film. Flowers are placed in the position in which they will be in the finished composition, see fig. When the solution has set, dip it again, then again, until the model is plastered with a layer 1-1.5 mm thick.

Drying artificial flowers during the gypsum process

Flowers for drying are placed in the same position each time. In this way, flat areas are formed on them, allowing them to be firmly glued to the base. Glue with acrylic plaster the thickness of sour cream or acrylic glue. You can also glue PVA.

Plastering on site

This is perhaps the most accessible way to make, say, a molded lampshade for a chandelier (see figure) without experience. Plastering the model in place differs from the previous method in that the model is first glued in place and then plastered with a brush. The plaster solution is made thicker, like sour cream. If the stucco is on the ceiling, the layers are applied very thin, translucent, so that there are no drips. Accordingly, up to 10-15 or more layers will be required.

Stucco lampshade for chandelier

The main problem here is the material of the model. They are usually made from polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane and other soft plastics. But over time they all decompose. This happens very slowly, but still, after 3-7 years, dirty gray or yellow-brown irremovable stains begin to appear on the stucco. Therefore, it is best to sculpt models for on-site plastering from salted dough, the same dough from which you make your own Christmas tree decorations. For plaster, stone and other minerals building materials salt dough glued with acrylic glue or any mounting glue. Stucco molding based on non-removable salt dough models retains its appearance for 30-50 years or more.

Reverse casting...

This is the most common way to create stucco with your own hands, allowing you to obtain results of a completely professional appearance and quality without excessive work and skill. The classic procedure for reverse casting from plaster is shown step by step on the left in the figure, pos. a-e. Model 1 made of plaster, plasticine, plastic, etc., or an exemplary product that it is desirable to repeat/replicate, is placed on a flat board 2. Now, in order to facilitate the removal of the mold with the model, the board is covered with film.

Reverse casting from plaster

Then the model is coated with a thin layer of lanolin. It is not advisable to use medical Vaseline; the model may stick to the mold. A plaster and any other porous (wooden, salt dough, stone, etc.) model is coated several times, allowing the lanolin to soak in for an hour or two, until a solid greasy sheen appears on the surface.

Next, the model is coated with a layer of gypsum or alabaster mortar of 3 dough thickness, approx. 1 cm, immediately forming protrusions-anchors 4 and stiffening ribs 5. The set and almost hardened, but still slightly pliable coating is tied with a frame made of soft (annealed) steel wire 6. The branches of the frame are fastened with ties 7 made of thin copper wire.

The next step is coating with 9 thick cement-sand mortar from M150 with a layer up to 5 or more cm thick, this is already a casting mold. Here you need to remember to form the supporting surface of the mold 8. After a time of gaining 3/4 of the strength with cement-sand mortar (7-20 days, depending on external conditions) the finished mold 10 is separated from the shield using a wedge 11. Well, if the shield was covered with film, the mold is simply removed.

Finally, the inner surface of the mold is cleaned with a copper brush 12 and, if necessary, defects are corrected with gypsum or alabaster mortar. The burr is removed from the side of the mold 13 and, from its internal edge, a chamfer of approx. 0.7 mm. In a mold without a chamfer, the casting will almost certainly get stuck. Before casting, the inner surface of the mold is coated with lanolin, like a model. The mold is filled with the casting mass layer by layer. As soon as she last layer starts to set, eyes with whiskers are inserted into it (upper right in the figure), by which the casting is then pulled out. For small ebbs, the eyes can be made from paper clips. The last layer is poured when the eyes are already firmly seated in the penultimate one, i.e. when it is completely hard, but still slightly damp. It is unacceptable to test the firmness of the lugs by shaking them!

Currently for runs up to 15-20 pcs. in the old fashioned way they do not cast from plaster; the mold for such cases is cast from silicone (bottom right). Model prepared as before. case, pour silicone layer by layer, in layers 1-2 mm thick, until a mold thickness of approx. 1.5-2 cm. In addition to technological simplicity, the silicone mold allows you to produce castings with shallow recesses, because it is elastic and stretchable.

Mini gypsum reverse casting

Also, small rounded plaster parts are poured into silicone molds: berries (see figure), acorns, mushrooms, etc., even small fish. In this case, a flask tray is sculpted from plasticine, and the model is also sculpted from plasticine. The silicone is poured into the flask all at once; The flask and the model are not coated with anything. Once the silicone has hardened, the mold is simply torn off and the model is picked out. This is the so-called. mini – reverse casting of plaster.

...and not the other way around

In plaster mini-casting, a removable model is already used; I mean, the model disappears and needs to be made again for the next batch of castings. A silicone mold can also be made for gypsum casting using a lost wax model, then from it it will be possible to obtain up to 100-200 or more castings, but convex ones, without depressions. In this case, the flask is made in the form of a box without a bottom made of plywood with a height 2-3 cm greater than the height of the model and a size such that the gap between the flask and the model is at least 1-1.5 cm.

The model is formed from wax on a board covered with film. Then they place the flask and cover the gap at the bottom with plasticine. Next, the model is doused with silicone in layers, as in the previous one. case, and when its last layer hardens, silicone is also added layer by layer along the contour until the mold is filled to the top. As soon as the last layer is poured, fill the plywood bottom. The model is smelted household hair dryer: the lousiest silicone holds 140 degrees, which a hair dryer does not provide.

Sculpting a bas-relief in place allows, as mentioned above, to achieve maximum artistic effect, but requires certain skills. You can purchase them without enrolling in an evening department at an art university or courses. Just practice with plasticine; The technique is the same, only when working with plaster the time is limited - work with the next section must be completed before it begins to set. Technically, plaster modeling is distinguished between low (flat) and high (round).

The technique of flat plaster modeling is shown in the selection of photos below. The rules here are like this. First, the material of thick dough or rich sour cream is applied in layers. Second, each layer is first smoothed, forming a relief at the same time, and then its contour is trimmed. The third, next layer, as in general in layer-by-layer filling with gypsum, is applied to the set but still wet previous one. Fourth, as the layers build up, they switch to smaller tools. And fifth, in each layer the work is carried out from the thinnest and smallest details to the thickest and roughest. IN in this case- from the leaf teeth to its petiole.

Low plaster casting

It is best to remove branches on bas-reliefs with a pastry syringe or, very thin ones, with a medical syringe. The thickness of the branches is adjusted by pressing harder and weaker on the piston (item 1 in the figure). In this case, the texture is applied with a brush, and the kinks are formed with the tip of a palette knife. The syringe is filled with the base solution, and for painting and for snow-white it is plaster, like a non-removable model in place.

Branches on bas-reliefs made of plaster

Strongly twisting branches (item 2) can be obtained by soaking a cord or twine in a gypsum solution of sour cream thickness, laying it on a board covered with film along the contour, and when dry, gluing it to the wall. If the bas-relief is prefabricated, lay out the cord immediately, it will dry firmly. To obtain branches of decreasing thickness, some of the strands are removed or, conversely, 3-5 branches of twine are twisted at the butt, then 2-3, then left alone. If the cord is visible through the plaster, the branch is additionally gypsumed in place, applying the solution with a brush

Note: branches for bas-relief made of gypsum cord can be soaked several times in tinted mixtures. The desired color is obtained by grouting with sandpaper.

Sharp ribs

You've probably seen sharp ribs in pictures with bas-reliefs. They are formed by folding large and index fingers, and the thumbs - with the fingers of both palms bent back. The height and thickness of the rib is changed by smoothly moving/spreading the fingers (palms) in motion as the rib is formed. Fingers, as in general for hand sculpting, should be slightly damp.

The basis of the round molding is a wire frame anatomically similar to the object, i.e. with the proportions of the object and the location of the branches where the main bones of the skeleton are. The frame in a round figure works in the same way as the skeleton of a living creature. Information about skeletons can be gleaned from any course on the plastic anatomy of humans, animals and birds. Plastic anatomy is a discipline not of medical, but of artistic education. The material there is presented from the point of view of how to sculpt, and not how to treat, and is designed for listeners who are not inclined to the subtleties and rigors of science.

The figure is approx. from 30-40 cm is molded onto the frame as shown in pos. 1 pic. For smaller figures, the frame is simplified (item 2), but respecting the principle of anatomical similarity. In humans, by the way, it is not so complicated: we divide height by 8; 1/8 of it will be the dimensional module of a harmonious human body, pos. 3.

Plaster molding on the frame

The frames of small animal figurines are made in a similar way (items 4a and 4b). It is advisable to reduce the weight of larger figures so that there is less fuss with securing the bas-relief (see below). In this case:

• The basic frame (pos. 5a) is made voluminous approximately along the contours of the body minus 1-3 cm for modeling, with the help of additional. branches from the same wire (pos. 5b). Auxiliary branches are attached to the main ones and fastened together with a thin winding copper wire, and even better - soldering.
• In a liquid plaster solution, like low-fat kefir, rolls of medical bandage are soaked, as for plaster casting broken limbs (see, for example, the film “The Diamond Arm”), and the frame is wrapped with a plaster bandage, pos. 5th century It is the rolls that need to be soaked: as soon as the bandage begins to peel off from the skein poorly, it means that the plaster has begun to harden and the rest of the roll goes to waste.
• Once the plaster frame has completely dried, it is covered in layers with a base solution (tinting can be used), the shape and texture are adjusted with tools and sandpaper, and it is plastered to pure white (if necessary) with a solution of architectural plaster.

Note: for frames of unfolded wings of birds, butterflies, elves, bats, ghouls, dragons, etc. convenient to use thin and small metal mesh. Another option is branches of the main branches, covered with paper or scraps of nylon tights.

Support for figures

Figures for homemade high reliefs are sculpted separately; the location is too difficult. Therefore, each figure must have a flat area, and on the base surface, respectively. flat so that the shapes can be glued into place.

How to attach bas-reliefs

The high relief with round figures turns out to be quite heavy. If per 1 sq. dm. its supporting area is more than 1.5-2 kg, the bas-relief needs to be reinforced. Corrugated nails 80-120 mm, driven into plastic dowels, are best suited for this. The attachment points are marked in advance under the thickest places, distributing them as evenly as possible over the area. The nail in the dowel should sit in the wall at least to a depth of 50-60 mm. The protrusion above the wall is 1.5-2 cm, for which the nail driven into the dowel is bitten off. The bas-relief mass above the protruding fastening peg should be at least 1-1.5 cm.

Superbas-relief

And in conclusion - how to try yourself in the elite technique of shadow bas-relief. All you need for this is a piece of plasterboard with a layer of fresh base solution of approx. 0.5 cm and nail 100-150 mm. You need to carefully remove the flash from the edges of the nail tip to get a regular 4-sided pyramid.

We prepare the sample as follows: we prick a nail with a slight inclination along the still plastic gypsum board coating straight rows The holes are staggered and close to each other. The inclination of the nail and the orientation of the edges of its tip relative to the directions of the rows must be maintained as accurately as possible so that the holes are equally asymmetrical.

The next step is to take the sample on a straight line sunlight and, turning this way and that, and in some other way, we observe the play of chiaroscuro. At the same time, we try to imagine how the holes should be pricked to create a changing pattern. And, who knows, maybe you will discover a talent for this rare, but extremely effective art - shadow bas-relief.

Modeling on the walls interior spaces has always been considered a sign good taste and prosperity. Today, despite the fact that there is a wide variety of different plaster and plastic ready-made elements that can be used to decorate the walls of a particular room in the house, sculpting a wall with your own hands will bring a lot of pleasure and make you proud of your work. Of course, you did it yourself. Someone may think that sculpting on a wall is difficult. Not at all. Every person who has never even sculpted before can easily cope with such work. There would only be a desire to create.

Beautifully designed sculpture will decorate any wall, making it expensive and stylish.

How to make wall sculpting with your own hands

For this you will need:

• building mixture for plaster;
• sculpture clay (or other material);
• stacks, knife, mixing containers;
• rolling pin

Before you start sculpting, you should prepare the wall of the room; it must be carefully leveled using plaster. Modeling clay must be mixed so that it does not stick to your hands. The elements of the intended composition will be formed from it. Some of the clay is mixed in a container until it becomes liquid sour cream. It is called a slip and is needed to connect finished elements together.

Modeling tools.

You can sculpt anything, but most often various plant compositions are made. From a piece of kneaded clay you need to break off as much as is needed to create one element, and the rest of the clay should be kept wrapped in a wet cloth and a plastic bag. This will keep it from drying out.

Possible at simple example Consider how a bunch of grapes is very simply sculpted. You need to take a grape leaf, put it on plastic wrap and trace it along the contour. This will be the template. Then the clay and slip are mixed. A piece of clay is rolled out into a cake with a rolling pin and attached to the wall surface using slip. The template is placed on the clay and traced along the contour. Using tools, excess clay is removed. Can be used as professional tools(stacks), and any improvised ones. First, the outline of the leaf is formed, and then the inner part (veins and indentations).

Related article: Yacht floor varnish

The leaf must be on the vine. Therefore, a thin rope is rolled out of clay and attached to the wall. Then the clay is rolled into balls and a bunch of grapes is formed. After production, the composition must dry. Then, together with the wall, it is covered with a primer and painted with water-based paint or whitewashed. You can also make a color composition by adding color to the paint and using art brushes.

Modeling using putty and other materials

Instead of sculpture clay, you can use putty. It is mixed in a container, applied to the wall and, while the putty is wet, the elements of the composition are formed. It is recommended to form sequentially small areas, as this material dries quite quickly. Instead of putty, you can use plaster or alabaster.

Photo 1. Putty embossed painted walls will decorate a children's room.

Using the described method, you can decorate a wall with relief. But you can make a three-dimensional image and decorate, for example, a wall or a corner of a children's room. The child will be absolutely delighted with this decoration (photo 1).

The easiest way is to make the same plant compositions as in the above example with grapes. Let's look at how you can sculpt a three-dimensional tree branch with leaves and a bird sitting on it.

In order for the branch to be voluminous, it is necessary to make a frame. It is made from wire, which is screwed to the wall of the room using self-tapping screws. You must first drill holes in the wall at the fastening points and drive plastic dowels into them. The wire fixed to the wall should be wrapped in a bandage and coated with a solution of sculpture clay, putty, plaster or alabaster. Using a knife, you need to form the tree bark on the resulting branch. All that remains is to attach the leaves and place the bird on the branch. It is easiest to sculpt a bird from clay, as it is more flexible.

After drying, the entire composition is painted. You can use gouache or water-based paint, adding color to it. This decoration looks simply great, especially if you highlight it with a small spotlight with a directed beam of light.

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How to make a bas-relief with your own hands on the wall step by step

Originality and beauty have always had a special place in the interior design of premises. The bas-relief on the wall is a convex design that is only half in volume. The sophistication and creativity of the decor is due to correct location of the fragments on the surface.

Like other types finishing works, the relief on the wall has its advantages and disadvantages. Among the special advantages is the ability to create images in almost any room. If all standards are observed in the process of drawing up and applying decorative ornaments, you can:

• Mask errors in the wall, including significant differences;
• You can create a whole panel and thereby occupy an empty wall;
• Visually zone the room;
• The ability to create unique compositions;
• Individual interior with special charm;
• If desired, the entire process can be carried out independently, without resorting to the services of a specialist.

Among the main disadvantages:

• Having some experience, creativity and at least basic skills as an artist;
• The process is labor-intensive, meticulous in drawing and performing the smallest details, which is why most often all work is entrusted to craftsmen. The cost of such work is quite high.

But still, if available large quantity information with step-by-step instructions, you can create a high relief on the wall yourself. There would be desire and time.

The main types of materials from which the bas-relief is made

Initially, only stone or wood were used to create compositions. Modern choice materials are much wider. Today's elements can be built manually or casting. For a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands, almost any material that can be cut or sculpted is suitable; it can be suitable for pouring into the appropriate form:

• Gypsum;
• Limestone;
• Clay;
• Polymer compounds;
• Stone;
• Tree;
• Decorative and other similar compositions.

To artificially add age to elements, patina is applied to them. To give additional volume, they are coated with bronze or gold plated. At the same time, the bas-relief looks harmonious with forged iron and stone. That’s why fireplaces are often decorated with such decor.

Main types of designs for bas-relief

The first images of the bas-relief in mandatory should have contained a human figure in their composition. This attribute is currently optional. The thematic focus, as well as the number of panels, dimensions depend on total area premises.

These can be subject compositions that occupy an entire wall or only a small corner. Previously it was assumed that relief three-dimensional images are relevant only for classic styles with their inherent soft lines and elaborate details. Several types of images are popular.

Nature (landscape)

This type of bas-relief is relevant not only for classics, art nouveau, modern, empire or rococo, but also for modern design trends. You can depict a small area of ​​forest or think through seascape. These include coral fields, schools of fish, algae, and the image of a newt.

Sakura

The bas-reliefs of sakura on the wall belong to the Japanese flavor, which can be complemented by images of dragons. A branch of cherry blossoms looks organically on the hallway and kitchen floors. The whole tree has a bright personality. The living room especially benefits from this composition.

Rose

The association with flowers is immediately evoked by the bas-reliefs of roses on the wall. There are a great many options for its use, as well as varieties of flowers. In the bedroom with classic design Relief panels with lush tea roses would be appropriate, not forgetting to paint them in the appropriate color. A scattering of small little roses will suit any room. Having chosen the right shade, such an ornament looks good with materials such as stone or textured brick.

Vine

The vine ornament will emphasize the sophistication of the Italian style. It can be used to decorate columns or empty niches. Vine white looks good on painted walls and vice versa, a colored vine will serve as an accent on a white surface.

Apple trees

A bas-relief tree on the wall is equally suitable for any room. However, given its size, you need to treat the hallway with special care. The volumetric bas-relief in this part of the house can visually reduce the already small area premises.

And other possible options

The application of three-dimensional drawings on walls can have different themes. It all depends on skills and practical experience masters The larger the panel with small details, the more complex and painstaking the work.

Necessary materials and tools for creating a bas-relief on the wall

To sculpt the walls in an apartment with your own hands you will need specialized tools, which can be purchased in stores for artistic creativity or construction markets. Experts advise choosing a ball, or rather half of it, as a container for mixing the solution. By turning it inside out, you can save time scraping and cleaning up the previous batch and preparing the next batch. In addition, it is very convenient to collect the solution from such a container, since it has no corners.

Palette knives are special spatulas in the form of spatulas of different shapes. To create some bas-relief elements, for example, a vine, you will need convex and concave palette knives. They cost more, so craftsmen often replace them with ordinary spoons of different configurations and volumes (coffee, tea, dessert, tablespoons).

Plastic spoons are easy to use. A little heat will help give the handle holder the desired shape.

As a rule, an aluminum spoon serves as the main tool, and a plastic spoon serves as an auxiliary one. An artist's knife is used to create fine texture in the image. Its analogue can be a regular shoe knife.

A pastry syringe with attachments, as well as a medical syringe that helps create very fine lines. Additionally, you will need 2 flat brushes and 2 round brushes. Before each intake of the next portion of the mixture, instruments (except syringes) are first dipped in water.

Preparatory work before creating a bas-relief on the wall

On preliminary stage It is important to prepare the surface for the process. The wall should be cleaned of the previous coating. Leaving a layer of putty, prime and let dry thoroughly. In order to give additional strength to the bas-reliefs, self-tapping screws are inserted two-thirds in thicker places. Flower petals and other similar parts are prepared from foam plastic (cardboard or salt dough) in advance, after which they are carefully treated with a primer.

Make the solution according to the included instructions. At this stage, it is very important to know the characteristics of a particular mixture. How long does it take for it to set, can dyes be added to it, and so on. If the bas-relief contains elements with a convexity of 10 millimeters or more, you need to make a wire frame (reinforcement). Ready-made molds are used to manufacture various elements. If they are not commercially available, you can make them yourself.

Stages of creating a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands

Craftsmen advise beginners to use ready-made cast parts, which only need to be attached to the surface. You can also form a convex pattern using a template.

• A drawing is applied to the surface with a simple pencil. Without any special creative skills, you can use ready-made stencils, drawings applied to tracing paper, after which it is drawn on the surface with a marker. You can also outline the contours with a toothpick;
• After the mixture has set, it is necessary to apply the outline of the ornament. Only after this is the volume increased. The putty should be applied to separate areas. Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried;

In some cases, it is necessary to create an in-depth image. It can be done in two ways:

1. Add a background layer around the image. At the end the background is sanded.
2. Make recesses corresponding to the image using a chisel or chisel.

• Covering the surface with ordinary transparent film, if necessary, draw details;
• After the finished relief image has dried, it is painted in the desired shades;
• With the help sandpaper remove unnecessary irregularities.

Features of creating bas-relief from different materials

Each material has its own processing characteristics. In interiors, plaster or wood is most often used.

Made of wood

To create a bas-relief from wood except source material You will need slightly different materials. Conical and end cutters. The first cutter is used for finishing canvas, the second - for rough work. For dimensional panels, high-precision equipment is used, including special programs.

From plaster

Gypsum is a very malleable material with good technical characteristics. Masters advise beginners to start with plaster. With the correct proportions, the solution is homogeneous with good adhesion.

Attaching the finished bas-relief to the wall

If you use a ready-made bas-relief, it must be attached to the wall or to a sheet of drywall. The second option is applicable if you plan to make the bas-relief removable.

It is necessary to create a single conglomerate between the image and the base, removing any errors. To attach a separate picture, you will need a special tile adhesive. If the image is large, then it is fixed using self-tapping screws and nails. The finished panel should be sanded using sandpaper. After cleaning all seams and depressions, the surface is primed and painted with water-based paint.

Creating such decor is initially difficult. It requires skill, patience and perseverance. To ensure high-quality images, you need to strictly follow the application technology. Otherwise, the structure will not be able to dry completely and will soon collapse.

Three-dimensional images on the walls can become original decoration room interior. Unlike moldings (overlaid decorative elements), they are created entirely by hand. Making a beautiful and high-quality bas-relief is a labor-intensive and responsible job, but if you wish and have at least basic modeling skills, it is quite possible to create paintings from plaster with your own hands. In this article we will talk about exactly this.

Volumetric paintings in the interior

Often, a design technique such as bas-relief is used to decorate private houses where there is a fireplace in the layout. In this case, the decoration can act both in the form of a picture and as a pattern that surrounds this fireplace. In addition, such interior decor will look great in window and door openings; the main thing here is to choose the required texture and size.

Important! Decorative relief, which includes the presence of lighting, is considered aerobatics. It will make it possible to make the image more voluminous, creating a 3D graphics effect.

An important point about using relief decoration on the wall is that it does not necessarily require the presence of different colors, in comparison with ordinary painting. The main thing here is to choose the right lighting, which will make it possible to highlight the shadows of the image using only artificial lighting.

There is a misconception that decorating a house using plaster paintings with your own hands is a very expensive pleasure. But in fact, such decor is quite accessible even for beginners. It is enough to strictly follow the instructions described below.

Create a bas-relief

In order to decorate a room with bas-relief, you will need the following:

• Sketch of the future image.
• Marker, pencil.
• Plastic sheets for making stencils.
• Masking tape.
• Color or paint for gypsum solutions(if you are going to make a colored bas-relief).
• Paint brush.
• Palette knives are plastic or steel spatulas that are used to create relief and textured images.
• Clay, plaster, alabaster, plaster or other plastic material.

Creating a Sketch

Even if the work is done using stencils, you will have to make a sketch of the painting in its natural size to check how this drawing will fit with the rest of the design of the room. It may need to be adjusted - remove unnecessary things or add elements that can fill the voids.

Important! The finished drawing is transferred to thin film or tracing paper.

For beginners, it is better not to make too large plaster paintings with your own hands with multi-stage relief. A single flower or a composition of several flowers, berries, fruits, branches with leaves, or simple outlines of birds or animals will look quite original on the wall.

Surface preparation

The bas-relief is made on a pre-leveled and plastered wall:

• To increase adhesion to plaster or gypsum, the wall surface is primed at least twice.

Important! In the room with increased level humidity, it is better to use an antifungal composition.

• To make the wall surface smooth, you can apply a base of satengypsum or acrylic putty to it.
• To obtain a relief surface after applying the solution, the wall should be treated with a roller or spatula using chaotic strokes.

Important! A rather original pattern can be obtained using crumpled paper or film.

• To transfer the sketch to the wall, attach a carbon copy to it, and then attach the drawing on top using masking tape.

Important! Subsequently, the gluing points are carefully rubbed down.

• There is also another way to transfer the sketch to the wall. To do this, apply a small layer of solution on it, attach a drawing, and release its outline using a palette knife with a pointed end, a toothpick or a match.
• If you are making a three-dimensional bas-relief, then it is better to screw self-tapping screws into the thickest parts of the image. They can act as reinforcement, preventing your image from crumbling.
• The stencil material must be thick. Moreover, the larger your bas-relief is, the thicker the stencil for it should be. It must be removed very carefully so as not to damage the image. Although a damaged bas-relief can be corrected at any time.

Important! Minor flaws can be eliminated after the plaster or plaster has completely dried. To do this, you need to walk along the edges of the picture with fine sandpaper.

• More convex images can be obtained by attaching pieces of foam plastic or cardboard blanks to the walls and then covering them with a solution. It will hold much stronger if these blanks are pre-treated with a primer.
• Additional strength can be given to larger image elements using a plaster or regular (pharmacy) bandage soaked in a solution.
• Alabaster, gypsum, plaster are diluted with water according to the instructions. The resulting solution is thoroughly mixed.
• The solution is applied to the wall surface in several layers. Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried.
• The convex elements are rolled out with your fingers and then fixed on the wall, lightly pressed down and leveled.
• The last layer of the image is best made from finishing putty, which can be easily sanded.
• Thin veins on leaves and flowers can be made using a medical syringe.

Important! Drawing small lines, as well as sealing cracks, is done upon completion of all work.

• The finished drawing is covered with a primer. Similar finishing coat will prevent the plaster or plaster from falling off.

Important! To prevent the bas-relief from cracking when it dries, it must be moistened periodically with a damp brush.

• You can color an image in different ways - both by adding color for acrylic paints to the solution, and by applying paint for gypsum solutions with an art brush. Excess paint is removed with a damp cloth.

Important! You can get subtle color transitions by applying paint to a still wet bas-relief.

Lilies

To make the process of creating three-dimensional paintings from plaster with your own hands more understandable, you should consider the procedure for arranging such decor using another example. We bring to your attention one of the most popular options - lilies.

Sequence of actions:

• First, you need to ensure the protection of the decorated base. To do this, cover the required space with masking tape.
• Cover the base with putty, let it dry completely and apply primer.
• Using a trowel, apply a starting layer of Marseilles wax to the wall surface.

Important! This material hardens relatively quickly - on average within 4 hours at room temperature.

• Peel back the film and carefully draw the details of the bas-relief. To do this, you should secure a transparent plastic film on top of the working surface over its entire width and length. In this case, there is no need to fix the bottom edge - you should still be able to bend it freely.
• Using a marker, draw a sketch of the future “lilies” on the film - buds, leaves, stems.
• Once the sketch is completely completed, begin applying Marseilles wax under plastic film following the sketch. First, use a trowel to work, and then a palette knife.
• The Marseille wax used is white in color. Therefore, to make the created decor more noticeable, cover it suitable composition. For example, you can use water slightly colored with poppy seed.

Important! Such compositions can only be applied to a dried surface.

• After tinting, you will immediately see in which places the finishing material needs to be given the outline of flowers and stems.
• After giving the bas-relief the desired shape, let the composition harden completely, then proceed to apply the second layer decorative finishing- acrylic paint.
• At the end, all that remains is to apply the final layer of finishing - Ottocento or any other composition with the same properties. To do this, armed with a wide brush, apply ottocento in two layers over the entire section of the wall.

Important! The second layer can be applied only after the first has completely dried.

• To give the composition additional volume and expressiveness, apply white ottocento to individual areas of the bas-relief.

Video material

Creating a painting from plaster with your own hands is a rather complex, time-consuming and labor-intensive process. However, with a careful and competent approach, you can give the interior of the room you need a beautiful and original look.

The article discusses one of the most original and time-consuming ways to decorate the walls of an apartment: artistic modeling. It is believed that this phenomenon belongs to past eras, but reality shows that modeling is also used in modern interiors.

Modeling in the interior

Modeling on the wall is considered an original, albeit not popular, option for home decoration. Despite the considerable number of alternative and artificial products, classical artistic modeling has not yet lost its relevance.

What is stucco on the walls

Stucco molding and bas-reliefs on the walls are a way to decorate a room in an original way and add some charm to the overall appearance.

Contrary to numerous misconceptions that say that stucco is not only an expensive but also a complex technological process, in fact it is an accessible method of decoration that any patient and imaginative craftsman can handle.

Stucco on the walls is patterned, figured and generally artistic decorations that can be made from various materials.

Stucco molding on the walls in the apartment: where can it be used

Stucco on the walls in a modern apartment can be used in many ways. First of all, these are, of course, living spaces, where such decoration takes up vast space on the wall. If desired, it is possible to vary the dimensions and volume of the decoration as desired. Stucco molding is less common in rooms for other purposes, such as, for example, a kitchen or bathroom, because in such places practicality rather than aesthetic qualities plays a more important role.

How to make stucco with your own hands at home

It is quite possible to make stucco on the wall with your own hands even without construction skills or art education.

However, before starting this process, you will need to make preparations. This implies, first of all, preparing the surface of the wall, which should preferably be leveled, and also necessarily primed and dust-free.

Material selection

To create three-dimensional images on the walls, designed to serve as an original interior decoration, you will need to use any plastic material. Among possible options can be noted:

• Gypsum.
• Plaster.
• Clay.
• Alabaster.

The choice of material is made, first of all, based on the cost of the material, as well as its characteristics.

Formation of a sketch or frame

After the wall has been properly processed and the material for modeling has been prepared, you need to worry about forming a sketch. It should be noted that the sketch will be one of the most important points in the process under consideration, and it also influences the success of the entire decorating operation.

• To create a sketch and future stencil, you can use thick paper or cardboard.
• The required image is drawn, copied or printed onto a sheet of paper, and then cut out along the contour.
• After this, it must be placed under film, cellophane or other similar covering. The resulting product will serve as a stencil for future modeling.
• Place the cut out fragment with the necessary contours in the right place on the wall and, using, for example, a pencil or other similar tool, press the contours of the image into the layer of putty.

Plaster molding on the wall

Gypsum is a plastic and flexible material, which can be given any shape, it hardens quickly. Before application, the plaster is filled with water and thoroughly mixed, after which, armed with a scalpel with a knife and wire with molds, you can begin making plaster moldings on the wall with your own hands.

Drying

Gypsum has a tendency to harden quickly, so it is not recommended to make complex parts that require lengthy manufacturing. The duration and characteristics of the drying process also depend on the thickness of the solution.

Opening with varnish

Final finishing will require provision protective coating. This is necessary not only to preserve aesthetic qualities, but also to protect the molding from shedding and destruction. Opening with acrylic varnish is considered one of best options in this case.

Examples of stucco molding in the interior of a room

Stucco on the walls in modern apartments can be completely different. It depends not only on the imagination of the owners or the master, but also on:

• area allocated for decoration;
• selected materials;
• characteristics of the room and some other factors.

Flowers

Flowers, vines and plant images often become images used in wall moldings. As a rule, they are simple to implement due to the symmetry of shapes and simplicity of lines.

Animals

The animal world is a less common motif in images created by stucco, since it does not fit into every room, but to create quality work you will need to hire a professional.

Geometry

Geometric lines, shapes, intricate patterns are original way decorate the wall of almost any room. Such patterns are neutral and fit into most interiors, in addition, they are easy to create.

Antique figures

They are one of the most complex images. To create them you will need not only experienced master, but also high-quality materials, good tools and a competent preparatory process.

What is the fastest way to do stucco on the walls with your own hands?

As already mentioned, gypsum is one of the “fastest” materials, although it will require some skill. It is easy and quick to apply, requires a minimum of effort and tools, and also hardens quickly.

Things to consider

Depending on the specifics of the planned work, a list of advantages and disadvantages is determined, which you should first familiarize yourself with and make a decision.

Care

Decorative modeling requires regular care, but it is not a simple process. It must be washed with mild detergents that do not contain abrasives or acids.

Restoration

Restoration of stucco is carried out using the same materials that were used to create the pattern, in case of major damage. For smaller and more insignificant defects, you can use plaster or putty. Individual elements, if necessary, are cast separately or formed after applying the mixture.

Stucco on the walls is one of the most original and exotic ways to give the interior solidity and originality.

Useful video