The arrangement of sewerage in a private house begins with a layout and a laying scheme. This allows you to most conveniently arrange all plumbing, make the right slope, accurately calculate all consumables.

As a result, the system will work smoothly, and in the event of a breakdown or clogging of one of the elements, everything can be quickly and easily repaired. In this article we will tell you how to correctly draw up schemes for conducting internal and external (external) sewerage for a private house or in the country, what is the optimal laying depth sewer pipes and what consumables should be used during the device and installation autonomous system with your own hands inside and outside the house.

Charting starts from a distant plumbing fixture in the attic or top floor. All horizontal lines must be reduced to one riser. To save money and Supplies bathrooms on different tiers are placed along one vertical line.

Sewerage in the house consists of:

• Water seals that prevent odors from entering the room;
• Drainage from all plumbing;
• Pipes leading drains to the external sewer;
• Elbows and tees connecting pipes into a single system;
• Clamps in the walls that support the pipes and give them direction and angle.
• Central stand.

It is important that the house does not have a transition from larger diameter sewers to less. Therefore, in the diagram, the toilet should be located as close as possible to the riser.

accurate drawing internal system depends on the number of storeys of the building, the presence of a basement, the number of plumbing used and the number of users. The depth of the septic tank and the attachment to additional equipment also matter ( pumping station or separately for each device).

On the diagram All items must be displayed to scale. so that in the event of a scheduled repair or an emergency, you can quickly figure out the wiring and find a breakdown.

outer line

External sewerage starts from the pipeline from the foundation. Effluent is diverted to a septic tank, cesspool or filtering structure. At each turn of the pipe, revisions are installed (adapters with covers, with which you can quickly clear the blockage). Outside there is also an inspection well and a ventilation hood.

Ventilation is removed from the riser through a fan pipe. Due to strong foreign odors, it cannot be mounted near windows, with access to the courtyard or near smokers. Categorically it is forbidden to connect it with the usual ventilation shaft . Instead of an umbrella, you can use a special vacuum valve at the top of the riser (not to be confused with a check valve!).

Advantages and disadvantages of different types of tanks

The final element of the system is a storage and cleaning tank. In the absence of a central collector for the intake of drains, autonomous installations are used.

1. Cesspool. It is easy to organize on the site and is the most cheap option. But it cannot cope with large volumes of stocks. There is a possibility of dirt getting into the groundwater and an unpleasant smell.
2. A do-it-yourself septic tank made of concrete-filled bricks or pre-cast concrete poles c. It performs its functions well, durable and strong. The disadvantages include a long installation time and serious construction costs.
3. Industrial offline installation . Such a septic tank is more expensive, but the costs are covered by the speed of construction, High Quality and long-term operation of the equipment.
4. Station biological treatment . The most expensive option, requiring constant electricity. Differs in the highest degree of cleaning and big productivity.

Consumables, calculation and prices

Be sure to determine the volume of the septic tank. The calculation is carried out taking into account that 200 liters of water per day is used for each inhabitant of the house. Drains in the septic tank settle for 3 days. Based on these data, we obtain the exact size of the sewage tank.

So, a family of 4 people consumes 800 liters. In three days, 2400 liters are accumulated. Means, it is necessary to select a septic tank of just such a volume. If desired, you can make a small margin in case of a maximum load of the tank. Septic tanks with such parameters cost from 20 thousand rubles.

Main armature:

• Crosses for connecting 4 sections at an angle (80-100 rubles).
• Tees with a 45 or 90 degree flank.
• Elbow for connecting pipes with a height difference (450 rubles / pc.).
• Straight double-sided coupling with rubber cuffs in sockets (from 30 rubles).
• Revision (60 rubles)
• reductions of different parameters (from 40 rubles / piece)
• Hood umbrella (from 50 rubles)

Before you begin to equip the sewer system, you must carefully read the basic requirements put forward to it. As we will tell in a special review.

Water can be not only useful, but also harmful to the human body. What filter coarse cleaning better fit to give, find out from this.

Optimum inclination and depth of laying during construction

According to the recommendations of SNiP for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, a stable 3 cm is made for each meter of laying. With a cross section of 100 mm, this value can be reduced to 2 cm. In order to avoid clogging and “fatting” of the sewer in the kitchen, it is advisable to increase the slope by 0.5-1 cm for each meter of wiring.

When mounted on a land plot, the same angle of inclination is observed. A sleeve (a pipe of larger diameter than the main pipeline, protruding 15 cm from each end) is installed in a hole made in the foundation. It provides a transition to outdoor sewerage, and located 30 cm above the freezing level of the soil.

Burying pipes below the freezing level (on average it is 1.6 m) is unprofitable- you will have to make a very deep septic tank. Subject to a constant slope, it will be 4-5 m, where groundwater may already appear. The cost is increased by additional concrete rings and stronger (corrugated) pipes that can withstand both the pressure of the drain and the weight of the soil.

The drain temperature is usually above room temperature, which prevents freezing, and if desired, thermal insulation or heating cable insulation can be used.

Selection of pipes and diameters

Pipes are used to drain waste from plumbing fixtures diameter 5 cm. The pipe from the toilet should have a cross section of 10-11 cm, which will help avoid blockages.

Pipes can be used to organize a sewer system in a private house. cast iron, reinforced concrete or plastic. The latter are more acceptable due to their strength, durability, corrosion resistance and smooth surface.

Outdoor (PVC)

Designed for outdoor networks. They are distinguished by their characteristic orange or yellow-brown color. Despite being relatively cheap, these pipes have sufficient strength, which allows their use both for external and concealed installation . For them, the connection method is recommended cold welding. All turns are made using fittings and bends.

Internal (polypropylene)

For internal communications, they are light gray in color and have different technical parameters depending on the manufacturer and model. Their common features:

• Single or multilayer.
• The foam is protected by an aluminum coating and a polymer layer.
• The connection is carried out by welding or using special fittings.

Rules for the device and laying of an external system

Briefly, instructions on how to properly make a local autonomous sewer system in a private country house(in the country) with their own hands, looks like this:

1. Mechanical or manual excavation of a trench.
2. Formation of a sand cushion.
3. Layout of all constituent elements (pipeline, trays, fittings).
4. Connection of fragments, starting from the exit from the internal sewerage. For greater reliability attachment points are treated with silicone sealant.
5. Testing the tightness of connections at maximum load.
6. Fill the trench, trying to compact the sand or soil only on the sides of the pipe, avoiding a sharp load at a right angle. Thickness sand filling — at least 15 cm.

For pipe bends, fittings for external engineering networks. If the distance from the foundation to the septic tank is more than 10-12 m, it makes sense to equip the site with an intermediate revision well.

This video shows how to properly make a sewer for a private house, as well as how to lay pipes yourself:

How to properly sewer in a private house, do everything according to the scheme yourself and lay pipes for the system without errors? Installation of the sewer system will be better if follow a few guidelines:

When installing a sewer it is important to consider every nuance: the placement of plumbing, the relief of the site, the location of the intake manifold or septic tank, the depth of pipe laying and the angle of inclination.

Only with careful scheming, careful planning and order installing a sewerage system in a private house or in a country house with your own hands can guarantee that the system will not freeze in the middle of winter and will drain well without creating additional problems in the house and on the site.

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Do-it-yourself internal sewerage in a private house: regulatory requirements and practical advice

Normative documents

These building regulations are an updated version of an older document - SNiP 2.04.01-85.

Let's get acquainted with the main requirements of the joint venture related to private construction. Let me comment on some points based on my own experience:

• To divert wastewater to public sewerage closed gravity pipelines should be used;

Sometimes the terrain forces the use of fecal pumps.
In this case, the pump must be installed in buffer tank, allowing a limited time to operate the sewerage system in the absence of power supply.

• Pipes are laid in a straight line, without bends. The direction of the gasket can only be changed with the help of fittings;

This fully applies to pipes made of cast iron, PVC and polypropylene.
Polyethylene allows gasket with some bend (up to about 10 angular degrees).
It retains elasticity even at low temperatures, so that cracks and destruction of pipes can not be feared.

• The laying slope must be constant;

This instruction is due to the fact that when the slope changes, the solid fractions of the effluents will linger in areas where it is minimal.
As a result, the likelihood of blockages will increase.

• To connect a horizontal section with a riser, it is strongly recommended to use oblique crosses and corners. An exception is crosses, the branches of which are located in two different planes;

This will greatly simplify cleaning in case of blockage.
A cable or wire, resting against the opposite wall of a straight tee, can fold or move in the opposite direction to the blockage.
The oblique tee will direct the cleaning tool in the direction of the drains.

• Two baths on the same floor can be connected to a common riser only through an oblique cross;

This is necessary so that during a volley discharge of water from one bath, water does not flow into another.
If the tubing is not tightly connected, overflowing the sewer is fraught with flooding of the bathroom.

• For sewerage, it is recommended to use pipes and fittings with a service life of at least 25 years and hydraulic characteristics unchanged throughout the entire service life. Polymer pipes (PVC, polypropylene, polyethylene, etc.) are preferred;
• In the basement, internal sewerage is laid openly. In residential premises, it is allowed to be embedded in the floor, walls, boxes and shafts;

If possible, pipes should be left available for inspection and repair. In my practice, there were blockages that could be cleared only by cutting out a section of the riser.
The most typical case is a large shard of thick glass, standing upright between the walls of a cast-iron pipe.

• The place where the risers pass through the ceiling is sealed for its entire thickness. cement mortar;

In a wooden floor, mounting foam is used for the same purpose.
The goal is to reduce the propagation of sounds between floors, including through the sewer pipe itself, which under certain conditions serves as an excellent resonator.

• Do not embed pipes in ceilings living rooms and kitchens;
• The internal sewerage scheme in a private house should include ventilation risers (fan pipes) that are connected to the top points of the system. The fan pipe is displayed 20 cm above the roof at a distance of at least 4 meters from the nearest opening window. In this case, the exhaust part of the riser should not be thinner than its waste part;

• Installation of deflectors on the fan pipe is prohibited;

With all due respect to the authors of the joint venture, this requirement is not always worth fulfilling.
The deflector will really limit the draft in calm weather, but it will protect the sewer from wind-borne debris and prevent precipitation from falling into it in a downpour.
For cesspool owners who pay for waste disposal, the latter is quite important.

• On the operated roof, the exhaust riser rises above its level by at least three meters;
• Device house sewerage should provide for the possibility mechanical cleaning with blockages. For this purpose, revisions or tees with plugs are provided. In a private house, they are located at the bottom and top of each riser, at the beginning of each straight section with three or more plumbing fixtures, as well as at corners;

• On long straight sections, revisions or tees for cleaning are located in increments depending on the diameter of the pipeline:

Diameter, mm	Step, m
50	8-12
100 — 150	10-15

• If the level of the sides of the plumbing fixture is below the hatch of the nearest yard sewer well (for example, when located in the basement or basement), the corresponding sewer section is equipped with a sewer gate or an automatic fecal pump;
• All hydraulic devices are equipped with water locks that prevent sewer gases from entering the premises;

Connections of elbows and siphons with sewerage are carefully sealed with rubber sealing sleeves. Otherwise, gases will enter the room through the sockets.

• Several washbasins (up to 6 pieces) and several shower cabins or trays can be equipped with a common siphon with a diameter of 50 m, equipped with a revision or a hatch (cover) for cleaning;
• The recommended installation height of plumbing fixtures in the general case (in the absence of people with limited mobility in the family) is:

Practice

Diameters

For bathtubs, washbasins, sinks, showers, urinals, washing machines and dishwashers the diameter of the attached sewer is 50 mm. For toilet bowls - 110 mm.

These diameters are sufficient for any reasonable number of plumbing fixtures connected in parallel to the sewer, including two bathtubs in one room, subject to simultaneous volley discharge.

Noise

The sound of water flowing in the pipes will hardly give you much pleasure. A number of simple recommendations will help to avoid it.

• If possible, lay horizontal sewer sections in the underground, basement or behind false walls. Risers are best placed in technical or utility rooms;

• Where the riser passes through the living space, cover it with a gypsum plasterboard box or wall panels . It is desirable to fill the box with sound-absorbing material (as a rule, this is used mineral wool); as an option, the riser can be wrapped with foamed roll insulation;
• Instead of thin-walled pipes PVC or polypropylene, it is desirable to use polyethylene pipes or the so-called noiseless sewerage. Thanks to the mineral filler and the variable density of the layers, it effectively absorbs acoustic vibrations. The price of such pipes, however, is 2 to 4 times higher than that of ordinary PVC, in addition, some manufacturers use own system diameters that are incompatible with conventional vinyl fittings;
• To fix the riser, use sound-absorbing clamps. equipped with foam rubber gaskets.

Mounting

How to assemble a sewer from plastic pipes with your own hands? Here are the basic installation rules:

• The pipeline is laid with a constant slope of 2 cm / m for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm and 3.5 cm / m for a diameter of 50 mm. Any counter slope will become a place of constant blockages: it will collect silt and fat deposits;
• The fixing points of the horizontal pipe should be separated from each other by no more than 8 - 10 pipe diameters. If you increase the step between the clamps, loose sections will sag in a year or two, forming sections with a counterslope;
• Vertical pipes are fastened with clamps under the necks of the sockets. Such a mount will not allow them to move under their own weight.

Pipe sockets and fittings must be directed against the direction of flow of drains. In this case, there will be a minimum number of irregularities inside the pipe, for which large-sized debris (paper, rags, etc.) that has fallen into it can catch on.

The pipe is easiest to cut with a grinder. Any abrasive wheel can be used for cutting. When working indoors, remember to protect your lungs with a gauze bandage: breathing plastic dust is below average pleasure.

After cutting, be sure to clean the inside of the pipe from burrs and chamfer the outside. The burrs will collect sewage-borne hair, fabric fibers, and other debris. The chamfer will greatly facilitate the assembly of the connection.

If the pipe enters the socket with great effort, lubricate it liquid soap or any other lubricant water based. Do not use engine oil or other fuels for lubrication: they will cause the seals to crack.

With hidden laying (in boxes and false walls), it is better to assemble connections on silicone sealant. Even if the seals lose their elasticity, it will not allow the socket to leak.

Ventilation

It is really necessary. Instead of lengthy discussions about the movement of sewer gases in pipes, I will simply share my own experience.

During the construction of the second floor, I brought the sewer to the septic tank without installation, based on the fact that with a system height of only 4 meters, there will be no significant draft in it. In addition, all connections of plumbing fixtures with sockets were carefully sealed.

It was not there: after some time, a characteristic sewer smell appeared in the attic toilet. As it turned out, the following happened:

1. When flushing in the toilet, the flow of water rushed down the riser, at some point blocking the entire lumen of the pipe;
2. The rarefaction arising at the same time in the upper part of the riser sucked water out of the bath siphon, disrupting the operation of the water seal;
3. The lack of water in the siphon opened the way for the aromas of the septic tank to the bathroom.

The problem was quite predictably solved by installing a vent pipe at the top of the sewer.

Heating

In regions with a warm climate, open laying of sewerage sites is often practiced. So, in the Crimea, with its average January temperature of + 3C, you can often find sewer pipes laid between the house and the well along the surface of the soil. The laying of pipes providing runoff from the second floor is also practiced along the facade.

Having looked at other people's buildings, I also laid a section of the internal sewerage to the septic tank along the facade: I didn’t want to spoil the ceiling and the repaired first floor with a riser.

Alas, in warm climate zone there are frosts. In the very first winter, the operation of the in-house sewerage system showed that it was impossible to do without insulation at all: already at -10C, the drains began to freeze.

The problem was solved by installing a self-regulating. It is a conductive matrix that increases resistance when heated and decreases when cooled. As a result, the lower the temperature, the greater the heat transfer, the more the pipe on which the cable is fixed heats up.

Installation was done like this:

• The cable is glued to the bottom of the pipe with aluminum tape. Reflecting infrared radiation, it significantly reduces untargeted heat loss;
• Since aluminum tape is extremely fragile, the cable had to be additionally fixed with polyethylene ties.

Several turns of cable are also used to heat the open septic tank.
The main requirement for laying is that the termination and heat shrink between the cable and the cold end must be left outside the drain tank.
They are aggressive and destroy the heat shrink tube in a year or two of operation, but the vinyl insulation of the cable perfectly tolerates prolonged contact with a chemically active environment.

Conclusion

As you can see, sewer installation is not extremely difficult. You can learn more about it by watching the video in this article. Please share your own experience in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

July 14, 2016

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When arranging a sewer with your own hands, you need to know how to lay sewer pipes, since they are an indispensable element of any system. There is nothing complicated about this, and it will be enough to know about the main aspects of this process. How to lay sewer pipes in a private house will be discussed in this article.

Today, the market is replete with materials for the manufacture of sewer systems: various pipes, fittings and other elements that ensure reliable operation and tight connection of the structure.

Laying sewer pipes in a private house must be done correctly. A trench is dug for pipes, the bottom of which is laid with gravel and sand, although sometimes the pipeline is laid directly on the ground. Pipes are usually connected in several pieces at the top of the trench, after which they are laid down. Of course, with plastic pipes such an operation is much easier, but with metal pipes you will have to sweat: this design will not be installed with your own hands, so additional equipment will be required.

When laying pipes on the bottom, care must be taken that they do not sag on separate sections otherwise problems cannot be avoided. Also, during operation, it is worth constantly monitoring the level of the pipes: failure to comply with the slope will certainly provoke system problems in the very near future.

The depth at which sewer pipes are laid into the ground is determined by the level of soil freezing in a given region. This value will be the initial one, and the final calculation of the depth of the trench along its entire length will be determined by knowing the distance to the sewer and the slope index. To further reduce the likelihood of freezing of the pipeline, it is worth insulating it: the cost of repairing a broken pipe will be much higher than the cost of insulating the entire pipeline.

An important aspect in the arrangement of sewerage is the sealing of pipes (which is especially difficult to perform when self-fulfillment works). When sealing pipes, you should be careful, because the performance of the system depends on the quality of work: constant leaks due to poor connections can destroy the sewer and make it impossible to use it further.

There are several ways to seal the joints of sewer pipes. One of them - chasing - is performed as follows: the socket is filled with tarred rope for two-thirds of the space, and the remaining space is completely filled with cement mortar in a ratio of 9: 1 (cement and water, respectively). This method is quite difficult to implement, but it is very reliable. If desired, you can use waterproof cement, and then the tourniquet is not required.

Before connecting the pipes, they must be carefully cleaned - this is a must. preparatory operation, due to which the laying of sewer pipes in a private house is of high quality and reliable. In addition, immediately before connecting pipes or structural elements, it is necessary to lubricate them with glycerin or soap. All joints during preparation must be marked so that the pipes fall exactly into place during the final laying.

Pipes for the sewer system in a private house

Given the diversity available materials, there will be no problem with this question. In addition, there will also be no problems with how to lay a sewer pipe in a trench if you use the tips described in this article.

AT old days independent arrangement of the sewer system was considered very tricky business. The reason is very simple: the laying of sewer pipes in a private house was carried out using heavy and uncomfortable cast iron pipes, the weight of which completely made it impossible to build anything on their own.

Now this problem practically does not exist: suitable plastic pipes have been developed for sewage, which are both lighter and cheaper, and are mounted without any problems. Of course, the laying of sewer pipes and its repair are quietly done by hand.

Before purchasing materials for the sewer system, it is necessary to prepare a project, according to which all work will be carried out. The project should display all sewer lines, plumbing fixtures and the premises where they will be installed. It is also important to remember that different devices require different pipes and additional accessories.

The laying of sewer pipes in a private house is carried out with an eye to the pre-calculated slope value displayed in the project. The slope may vary depending on the situation, but the optimal value is considered to be 2 cm per meter of pipeline.

Pipe diameter for different sections also has importance, and before laying the sewer pipes, you need to select the appropriate segments. For example, 110 mm pipes are used to connect the toilet, and for plumbing that only drains water, 50 mm outlet pipes are sufficient. Often used more thin pipes with a diameter of 32 or 40 mm, which are suitable for bidets and washing machines.

To choose pipes for connecting plumbing, you need to have an idea of ​​​​such an indicator as the nominal diameter, which determines the inner diameter of the sewer pipes. So, for baths, sinks and showers, the value of this diameter is 40 mm, for washing machines and kitchen sinks - 40-50 mm, and for the toilet bowl - from 100 mm. When installing the riser, it must be taken into account that its diameter must be higher than largest diameter outlet pipe.

Additional sewerage elements for laying pipes with your own hands

Do-it-yourself sewer pipe laying is most often done using a socket method: one end of the pipe is inserted into the socket of the other, and sealing and shaped elements are located between them.

The main fittings most commonly used are:

• couplings;
• knee;
• adapters;
• plugs;
• crosses;
• revisions;
• clamps.

The coupling allows you to connect pipes to each other if a socket connection is not possible for one reason or another. For example, if two pipe sections that do not have sockets need to be built into the system, then the coupling will allow such a connection to be made.

An elbow is a fitting that allows you to change the direction of the sewer pipeline. The knee angle can be different: the most common are products with an angle of 90, 45 and 35 degrees.

Transitions are needed to connect pipes to each other different diameters. good example such a situation is a system in which the main line has a diameter of 110 mm, and internal sewerage made of 50 mm pipes.

In order to tightly block one of the sewer passages, plugs are used. Very often these elements are used during the construction process: for example, if the sink has not yet been installed, and the sewerage system is already working, then the free hole must be closed with a plug.

The cross is a kind of adapter and has 4 channels: three sockets for connecting pipes and one large outlet. This shaped element allows you to connect several pipes in one node and direct them to one line.

The revision is a tee with two sockets and a cover that comes off to clean the structure or troubleshoot problems. Clamps are fasteners and allow you to fix the structure in place.

Plastic sewer pipes

Plastic pipes produced today can be made from different materials.

The raw materials for the manufacture of polymer pipes can be:

• polyethylene;
• polyvinyl chloride;
• polybutylene;
• polypropylene.

The most common are PVC pipes. Such products are characterized by high resistance to most types of aggressive substances that can get into them or be outside. The advantages of all types of plastic pipes include their low weight, which makes it possible to equip the sewer system with your own hands, without involving bulky equipment.

In addition, the inner surface of plastic pipes is smooth, so they are practically not subject to clogging, which speaks in favor of such products. Another weighty argument in favor of plastic pipes is their long service life, which makes it possible to create reliable system able to work flawlessly for several decades.

Despite all the advantages of plastic pipes, the sewer system can still cause trouble. Problems most often arise precisely because of improper installation, and the result is rather deplorable. To prevent this from happening, the laying of sewer pipes in a private house must be carried out carefully, efficiently and in strict accordance with the project.

Clogged sewer pipes

The sewer system is often subject to blockages, no matter how good it is. Problems arise for a variety of reasons: the wrong technology for laying sewer pipes or other elements, the poor quality of the materials used, or improper operation. However, all these problems can be avoided if you use the generally accepted rules and know some aspects of the sewerage system.

For example, often blockages in the system occur due to too much sharp corners turns or bends. It becomes much more difficult for drains to move in such places, so they require additional effort, after which deposits remain on the inner surface of the pipeline. In addition, sometimes residents dump various garbage into the sewer, which is strictly forbidden: in the vast majority of cases, solid objects get stuck at the first turn and provoke clogging.

Conclusion

Before you properly lay the sewer pipes, you need to understand building codes, rules and standards. If everything was done correctly, then there will be no problems with the sewer system, and it will be able to perform its functions with maximum efficiency.

When laying a sewer from the house to a septic tank or storage tank, it is worth adhering to the basic rules regulated by SNiP 2.04.03–85 regarding the level of the pipeline. Therefore, those who do not know how deep to dig a sewer pipe will draw a lot of useful information from our material.

Important: the regulation SNiP 2.04.03–85 is not strictly mandatory, since it has a very streamlined footnote that allows you to vary the level of laying the collector depending on the characteristics of the soil and climatic conditions of a particular region. And as an example, take the already existing working sewer networks in the region.

SNiP, on the other hand, offers only averaged data for laying the collector from the house to the septic tank in maximum and minimum reflection.

• So, it is recommended to carry out the installation of the collector, solely based on the previously compiled project documentation. At the same time, when creating a project, it is very important to take into account all communications available on the site, such as water supply, electricity, etc., located in the ground.
• It is necessary to draw up a sewerage project on the site, taking into account the possible increase in the load on the collector in the future.

Important: according to SNiP, the ideal option for a sewage project is one that requires a minimum investment of funds and at the same time allows you to create an effective working system.

Factors affecting the level of pipeline laying

Specialists who will be involved in a sewer development project in a private house must take into account several factors that will affect the depth of the pipes. These are:

• Climatic conditions of a certain region. That is, it is precisely the area of ​​soil freezing that is taken into account here. Moreover, if the region in which the laying of the pipeline will be carried out is prone to severe frosts in winter time, it is better to increase the laying level from that recommended in SNiP by 30% on average.
• Way of laying the pipeline (in trays or without them).
• The composition of the soil (swampy, sandy, prone to shifts or heaving, etc.).
• Type of sewer system (gravity / non-pressure or working with a pump).

Minimum depth according to SNiP for laying pipes

Some mistakenly believe that the deeper the collector is laid in a private house, the more efficient the system will work and the more durable it will be. However, this decision is reckless for several reasons:

• Firstly, the cost of arranging sewerage is increasing. And in most cases they will be simply unreasonable.
• Secondly, too great a depth of sewer pipes forms the risk of "fatigue" cracks on the collector. That is, the pipes may simply not withstand the pressure of the soil as a result of its heaving after freezing or washing away with seasonal water.
• Thirdly, maintenance of the sewage disposal system in a private house will be much more complicated.

In order for the pipeline for draining wastewater to work well in the warm regions of Russia, you can focus on the SNiP regulation, which allows you to lay pipes at a distance of 30 to 50 cm from the ground surface. In this case, the level of laying the collector is completely dependent on the diameter of the pipeline. So, if the pipe cross section is less than 500 mm, then the collector is arranged higher, but if the pipeline cross section exceeds 500 mm, then the laying depth is increased to 50 cm.

Important: in any case, when laying the system in a private house, it is necessary to take into account the slope towards the septic tank at the rate of 1-1.5 cm per meter of communication. This is especially true for non-pressure systems.

Such a minimum indicator of trench parameters is also due to the fact that domestic wastewater, as a rule, is discharged from a private house in a warm form. That is, their temperature most often does not fall below +16 degrees. And this means that the drains themselves will constantly dilute the possible frost on the collector. The main thing is not to let the system idle.

At the same time, despite the minimum parameters for laying a collector in a private house recommended in SNiP, it should be taken into account that if an increased load on the soil is expected at the pipeline location (installation concrete pad or traffic, it is necessary to lower the pipes to a depth of at least 90 cm.

Also, if due to the characteristics of the soil or climatic features the site itself, it is impossible to dig trenches to a great depth, it is necessary to carry out installation at a smaller distance from the surface with pipe insulation. To do this, you can use one of several modern technologies:

• Insulation of the collector with expanded clay from all sides as a backfill;
• Insulation of the system using fiberglass material;
• Insulation of the pipeline with the use of special modern heaters.

Reservoir depth reduction options

You can also use several ways to reduce the parameters of trenches in a private area from the house to the septic tank, if it is not possible to dig them deeper. The main ones are:

• The use of a powerful fecal-drainage pump, which will increase the flow rate of wastewater, thereby preventing stagnation and freezing of feces in the system.
• The use of pipes with high strength characteristics and wall thickness. It can be cast iron or steel pipes for the sewer system.
• Artificial increase in soil thickness over a laid collector in a private house. You can use tricks for this. landscape design in the form of a beautiful hill with flowers, etc.

Max Depth for Collector

If a decision is made to lay the pipeline below the freezing level of the soil, then it should be taken into account that the pressure of the earth on the pipes can play a cruel joke. That is, over time, the pipe can simply burst. As a result, environmental damage will be caused to nature, and financial damage to the owner of the private house system. After all, repairs of the pipeline in the house and outside will have to be carried out.

And yet, in some cases, there is a need for a deep bookmark of the system. In this case, SNiP regulates that for land with high level occurrence ground water and for soil with rock inclusions, the collector can be lowered to a level of up to 3-4 meters. If the soil is dry and non-fluffy, then the maximum distance of the collector from the surface of the earth can be 5-8 meters.

Important: if it becomes necessary to increase the maximum recommended level of laying the pipeline, then the collector must already be placed in reinforced concrete trays to prevent soil pressure on the drainage system. In addition, in this case it is better to use durable rigid pipes made of two-layer corrugated PET.

Septic tank locations

If with gasket sewer pipeline everything is clear to a certain depth, it remains to find out how far down into the ground to mount a septic tank in a private house.

Here the answer is simple: the installation of a septic tank near the house should be carried out in accordance with the norms of SNiP to a depth of at least 2 meters from the ground surface. This indicator is an average and can vary upwards depending on the parameters of the trenches for the collector and the characteristics of the soil.

The main rule here is that the septic tank is located below the level of the collector, taking into account the increase in its slope for each meter, regardless of the level of soil freezing.

That is, if at the exit from a private house the height of the pipeline according to SNiP should be 30 cm higher than the depth of freezing of the soil, and the trenches are located at a distance of 50-70 cm from the top, the length of the collector is 7 meters, then the final depth of the inlet pipe for the septic tank should be about 80 cm. It remains to add the height of the septic tank itself from the bottom to the top. Thus, we calculate the parameters of the pit for the septic tank.

Important: when designing the laying of a sewer system in a house, it is better to contact specialists who will not allow you to make common mistakes in installation.

Any a private house must have its own sewer wiring inside the building and the waste disposal system Wastewater, which directs flows to a centralized sewer pipe or to an autonomous septic tank. Do-it-yourself sewerage is being installed in a private house, and many schemes have been developed for its implementation, so your task is to choose correct device do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house, purchase building materials and prepare a tool. Correct calculations of the sewer line will help minimize the cost of building materials, make the sewer more efficient and durable. And how to mount the sewer correctly, read on.

Where to place the sewer in the yard

Sewerage for a private house is being installed according to established standards and regulations, internal sewerage should be operated for a long time, without overhauls and frequent preventive work. In the house, the internal sewerage is designed to combine pipes and plumbing equipment- baths, showers, sinks, as well as for the removal of sewage, which inevitably appear in everyday life.

Even self-assembly sewerage in a private house must adhere to the norms of SNiP and be carried out according to the plan drawn up before assembling the main line and its components. But the main part of the autonomous sewer system is a device sewer septic tank or cesspool into which sewage will enter.

The main standards for arranging a homemade cesspool in the yard:

1. The distance to the residential building is ≥ 5-12 m. But with an increase in this parameter, it will be more difficult to observe the slope angle of the sewer line.
2. The distance from the outbuildings to the sump is ≥ 1 m.
3. Distance from fence neighboring plot≥ 2-4 m.
4. Distance from green spaces ≥ 3-4 m.
5. From sources drinking water a cesspool or septic tank should be equipped 30 meters or more.
6. The depth of the sump depends not only on the volume of sewage wastewater, but also on the depth of groundwater flow. In this case, the pit should not, according to SNiP, be deeper than 3 m.

The depth of storage of the main volume of sewage sewage must be calculated in such a way that the reservoir is dug below the level of soil freezing in a given geographical region. Before you properly make a septic tank, you should follow the rule: the container or pit should be filled no more than 30-35 cm from the manhole cover.

Solutions for the arrangement of external sewerage

What kind treatment systems install - directly depends on the desire and capabilities of the owner. Exist the following types sewer systems:

1. An industrial septic tank is a device that allows you to collect and process wastewater supplied by the internal sewerage of a house into clean process water and biological fertilizers. In septic tanks dirty water is settled and cleaned by biobacteria and microorganisms that multiply with organic waste.
2. Biotreatment with a special cleaning station, which has high performance and high efficiency cleaning. The system is not autonomous, it depends on electricity, an expensive pleasure.
3. A dry closet is a solution that provides storage of small volumes of sewage. For service country house or country house the dry closet is not suitable, as it is able to process and store only fecal waste from human life.
4. The cesspool is a traditional and reliable option, it has been used for centuries. In conditions modern construction and developments for wastewater treatment, the cesspool is being equipped less and less. In addition, a large pit is more difficult to equip and maintain manually.

It is realistic to make a sewer in a private house on your own for all of the above options, except for the installation of a cleaning station, which will require the help of professionals and correct calculations.

Homemade cesspool on the site

Read more about how sewerage is arranged using a cesspool. To equip a cesspool, it is necessary to dig a large hole - a sewer pipe from the house is connected to it - drains from a toilet, bath, kitchen, etc. If the soil in the yard is loose or sandy, then it is recommended to overlay the walls of the pit with bricks or pour concrete in the shape of the formwork.

The advantages of this solution are low cost of work and building materials, simple installation and reliable design.

The disadvantages that a home-made sewage system has in a private house with a cesspool:

1. It is necessary to constantly remove accumulated solid waste from the pit. Since the walls of the pit silt over time, it will also be necessary to pump out liquid effluents.
2. An unpleasant smell in the area in case of poor sealing or its complete absence.
3. Since the water will eventually soak the soil around the pit, the site will become contaminated.
4. If the methodology for arranging a cesspool is violated, pipes can freeze in winter or become clogged at any time of the year.

sealed tank

A cesspool can be made with your own hands, according to the principle of a sealed tank, as in a septic tank. The tank can be used metal or plastic, but before you make a sewer, you should correctly calculate the capacity of the tank. The calculations will be given below. You only need to remember that metal container rusts quickly, so it must be carefully protected with anti-corrosion agents.

The plastic tank has more advantages:

1. No need for waterproofing and anti-corrosion coating, the container does not react with aggressive substances in wastewater.
2. The plastic tank is initially sealed.
3. The small weight of the tank is the ability to mount it yourself, without renting an excavator and a crane.
4. Dimensions and shape of tanks - in a wide range.

There is only one drawback - the high price of the product.

Plastic or reinforced concrete septic tank with one chamber

One chamber contains a small amount of waste - about 1 m 3 for a family of 2-3 people. The calculation of the volume is simple - the daily water consumption per tenant will be approximately 200 liters. This means that for 2-3 people, the water consumption per day will be 600 liters, but taking into account the reserve, a volume of 1000 liters is taken to prevent overflow of the tank. This solution will work reliably if you do not increase the number of residents and consumed water. Structurally, the sewerage in a house with a single-chamber waste tank is the sewerage wiring in a private house according to the scheme below, and the settled water from the chamber is discharged into the ground or pumped out for the needs of the household. To improve the quality of wastewater treatment, bioadditives in the form of breeding bacteria that destroy organic matter can be added to the tank.

Design advantages:

1. Low cost and easy installation without the involvement of special equipment.
2. Independent performance of all work operations for the installation and connection of the septic tank chamber to the house sewer.
3. Environmental friendliness and tightness - there are no unpleasant odors from the septic tank.
4. And a reinforced concrete tank, and plastic camera do not react with aggressive substances in wastewater.
5. Long term maintenance-free operation of the tank.

A single-chamber septic tank works as follows: drains from the house by plastic pipes move towards the septic tank chamber, where solid debris settles to the bottom of the tank. From the chamber, the effluents enter the soil, where they are additionally purified by means of natural filtration.

Autonomous septic tank with two tanks

This is a more voluminous sewer for a private house - how to install it correctly? For this, a sewerage scheme is used for a private one-story house, in which a septic tank with two tanks operates.

1. The first tank in this scheme is designed to allow dirty water to settle and be cleaned. Solid debris remains at the bottom, upper layer liquids in the chamber are purified water, fats and household chemicals.
2. The second tank is designed for re-treatment of wastewater. In it, the lower layer is fats and chemical substances. The water in the second chamber is further purified by approximately 60-65%.

When the second chamber overflows, water begins to overflow into the ground. it allowable rate, since after cleaning in the second chamber, the water has regulatory indicators for environmental friendliness. Autonomous sewerage in a private house, the scheme of which is given above, provides a higher degree of wastewater treatment and the safety of people living in the house. This scheme works great in a house with 5-8 residents living in it.

Advantages of a two-chamber septic tank:

1. More pure water at the exit.
2. Tanks do not corrode.
3. The service life of such a cleaning scheme is ≥ 50 years.
4. You can assemble and run a septic tank with two cleaning chambers yourself.

Flaw:

Need periodic and regular cleaning of the walls of the chambers from silting. When carrying out such an operation, it is not recommended to remove all the sludge, since it contains biobacteria that decompose organic matter.

Biofiltration septic tank

Self-installation of sewage in a private house may involve the use of a biofilter. This is a tank with expanded clay, which is inherently inert. Expanded clay acts as a biological filter for wastewater treatment:

1. Drains alternately flow through the chambers, where they are cleaned, after which they enter the biofilter, covered with expanded clay.
2. Aerobacteria in the biofilter decompose and oxidize the organic matter present in the wastewater.
3. After complete cleaning process water enters the drainage system.

Advantages:

1. High level of cleaning, reduction of the drainage field and autonomy of work.
2. Dirt, debris, grease and chemicals are almost all removed. As a result, the output is clean industrial water suitable for irrigation or other chores in the yard.

Flaws:

1. Constant addition of biobacteria, high construction cost.
2. The need to clean the biological filter and pump out excess wastewater with sewage equipment.

The cost of self-arrangement of sewerage in your home

The cost of plastic tanks is available to any owner of a private household:

Product marking	Price in rubles at the beginning of 2019
Plastic pipe 50 cm, ⌀110 mm	100
Pipe plastic 100 cm, ⌀ 110 mm	190
Pipe plastic 200 cm, ⌀ 110 mm	350
Plastic pipe 300 cm, ⌀ 110 mm	500
Plastic pipe 400 cm, ⌀ 110 mm	690
Plastic pipe 600 cm, ⌀ 110 mm	1000
Plastic pipe 15 cm, ⌀ 50 mm	40
Plastic pipe 50 cm, ⌀ 50 mm	50
Pipe plastic 100 cm, ⌀ 50 mm	60
Plastic pipe 150 cm, ⌀ 50 mm	90
Plastic pipe 200 cm, ⌀ 50 mm	100
Plastic pipe 300 cm, ⌀ 50 mm	140
Clamp ⌀ 110 mm	45
Clamp ⌀ 50 mm	30
Elbow ⌀ 110/450 mm	110
Elbow ⌀ 50/450 mm	30
Tee ⌀ 110 mm	200
Tee ⌀ 50 mm	40
Plug ⌀ 110 mm	80

When compared with pipes and steel elements, then plastic products simpler and easier to install.

1. By purchasing PVC pipes and parts, you should check the presence of a rubber gasket in the sockets.
2. Do not connect the exhaust pipe to the ventilation system.
3. If the internal sewerage is installed according to standard scheme(one bathroom, sink and sink, washing machine, shower), then there is no need to equip a vent pipe.
Autonomous sewerage-septic tank for a private house

All decisions on the assembly of the sewerage system must be thought out, calculations made and the scheme reflected on paper. Therefore, when laying sewers on your own, choose an option that will take into account all the nuances of the architecture and geometry of your home. If you are not sure of your knowledge and experience, contact the professionals. Better spend more money on correct installation than to correct errors, which will cost more.