How to make a pipe cleaner in a garage. Chimney brush with convenient immersion device. Mechanical clearing of blockages

Furnace soot is removed from chimneys as follows:

burning carbon-rich plaque with the help of a rather complex technology and an expensive tool;
dissolving the settled crust with the help of chemicals introduced into the furnace during the combustion of fuel;
scraping from the inner surface and removing from the outlet channel through pre-arranged hatches for cleaning.

At the same time, the first method of struggle is extremely dangerous and is practiced only in the case of cleaning the chimneys of industrial heat-generating units. The second technique involves the destruction of the body of the outlet pipe, which survived the impact of chemically active drugs.

The third technology - mechanical cleaning - guarantees a high level of safety, while ensuring the safety of the chimney itself. Therefore, most household flue gas outlets are cleaned only with their own hands mechanically.

Why is a ruff needed and how is it used?

This tool works like a scraper or brush, breaking up the soot crust and "sweeping" the combustion products to the cleaning hatch, for subsequent removal of the collected deposits. That is, the mechanical cleaning of the channel is carried out precisely with its help.

The chimney sweep introduces the ruff into the outlet channel from the side of the roof and, making reciprocating movements, knocks soot off the inner walls.

Having finished processing the vertical channel, the chimney sweep proceeds to cleaning the horizontal sections, introducing the ruff into special hatches and making reciprocating movements already in the horizontal plane.

The mass accumulated at the hatch is removed from the channel using a scraper and a scoop.

How is the main tool of a chimney sweep arranged?

A typical oven brush consists of such structural elements as:

flexible cable - a spring with a minimum gap between the turns;
a spherical or cylindrical brush - a brush - with "working elements" protruding 360 °;
suspension - a removable weight at the end of the cable, located behind the brush.

When working in a horizontal plane, the suspension is dismantled - in this case, we need the flexibility of the spring cable. Do-it-yourself cleaning of the vertical channel involves working with a rigid structure. Therefore, in this case, a suspension is fixed at the end of the cable, which levels the flexibility of the spring due to the influence of gravity.

In addition, for a professional tool, the brush is removed by twisting it from the cable, because the diameters of the chimneys can be different.

How to make a ruff for cleaning with your own hands?

To do this, we need the following tools and supplies:

A plumbing cable is the basis for a future brush. However, if only a vertical channel is to be processed, then the spring cable can be replaced with a wire analogue or a fine mesh chain.
A coil of soft wire - a cleaning nozzle will be made from it. If there is no wire, then you can use a cord from a tire, having previously burned out the rubber. Another version of the "building" material for the nozzle is a plastic bottle.
Any small-sized cargo is a heavy nut, a cast lead ingot. A coffee can filled with sand or shot.
Steel stud 8-10 mm, two nuts, two carabiner fasteners, copper tube.
Two tiles with dimensions of 5x5 centimeters made of plywood or metal with a thickness of at least 2 mm

The very process of making a brush for a chimney sweep with your own hands is as follows:

At the intersection point of the diagonals of 5 cm tiles, we drill a through hole with a diameter like that of a hairpin.
We cut the cord or wire into measured segments, the length of which is equal to 2-2.5 chimney diameters.
We take a hairpin, fix it in a vice and bend the free end into a loop or weld washers with a large inner diameter to it.
Next, turn the stud in a vice with the threaded end up, screw the first nut on this side and put on the first tile.
We bend the measured segments of the cord or wire in half, around the hairpin, forming a ruff. In this case, the wire bristles should be evenly spaced around the entire circumference for maximum cleaning area.
We put the second tile on the hairpin and wind the second nut, fixing the wire sticking out in different directions.
By welding, we fix a second washer on the free end of the stud or make a loop.
We pass carbine fasteners into loops or vertically fixed washers, getting a removable nozzle on a ruff for cleaning.
We weld or solder the mounting ring to the load. If a nut is selected as a suspension, then this operation can be omitted.
We fasten the load to one of the carabiners of the assembled nozzle.
We put a copper tube 4-5 centimeters long on the free end of the spring or weeding cable. The tube diameter is equal to 2-2.5 cable diameters.
We form a loop at the end of the cable, passing a free section into the tube.
We rivet the copper tube, fixing the loop for hanging the nozzle with a weight.
We fix the cleaning nozzle on the loop with the help of a free carabiner.

That's all. You have made a ruff for cleaning the vertical channel of a chimney or chimney with your own hands, and it is ready for use.

But for processing horizontal or inclined channels, you will need a completely different nozzle, which you can also handle with your own hands:

Take a plastic bottle of 1.5-2 liters and cut off the bottom of this container.
Dissolve the body of the bottle into strips 3-4 mm wide, cutting them along the vertical axis from the remote bottom to the neck of the container.
Punch a hole in the lid, the diameter of which matches the diameter of the cable.

After that, you will have to string a perforated lid onto the cable and, having previously removed the “vertical” nozzle from the loop, wind the bottle turned into a scraper onto it. Moreover, for rigid fixation of the nozzle on the ruff, it is necessary to pierce the neck and cork with a self-tapping screw, passing it through the loop on the cable.

When making parts with your own hands, you should consider:

The brush diameter is 0.8-1.2 of the chimney diameter.
The diameter of the load is 0.3-0.35 of the diameter of the channel being cleaned.
The length of the spring or wire rope = the length of the channel to be cleaned + 10-15 percent.

We can say that a chimney brush is the main tool that is used for the hygiene of this design. In some ways, the device is similar to a toothbrush for cleaning bottles, the principle and overall appearance are very similar, of course, only the dimensions are much larger. The ruff consists of the main spire (it is also the central perpendicular), on which several circles of large “bristle” are made. Often thin steel wire is used, in some cases only soft wire types are allowed.

How to choose the right chimney brush?

Despite a generally general understanding of the cleaning procedure and the presentation of the entire device, many are not aware of the significant factors when buying finished products. It should be borne in mind that the tool is not suitable for every type of channel. For example, for brick structures, a ruff with a hard “bristle” is suitable, where the “bite” soot “settled” quite tightly on the walls. If buying for steel pipe, get soft products, with soft wire or plastic, nylon. Otherwise, hard wire is likely to damage the structure. As you can see, the nuances of choosing ruffs are enough and it is important to pay attention to them.

Ruff for cleaning a brick chimney

Where is it sold and how much does it cost?

You can buy such a device at any hardware store. For lack of it, you can buy a ruff for your chimney on the Internet, as a rule, the cost does not seriously differ. The average price is within 2,000 rubles.

How to make a homemade ruff?

If the price seemed too high for you, you can make such tools with your own hands. The main thing is to determine which shape you need and for which pipe. There are three main types of brushes:

Ruff - a classic brush made of metal, in the shape of a cylinder. Additional devices included in the kit can be either a simple long rope, usually 5 meters, or a kettlebell weighing up to 2 kg. with extension.
An ordinary brush equipped with steel or nylon "bristles". Has a special handle.
Scraper. It saves when there are soot growths on the channels, which the two previous options cannot cope with. May be any suitable shape.

From a plastic bottle

A homemade ruff for can be made from an ordinary water bottle. Manufacturing steps:

In the center of the bottom, we make a small hole.
A hole is made in the lid of the same diameter.
Next, we cut the bottle into small ribbons, and fasten a hairpin with a hook on one side.
On the other hand, a hairpin is also inserted, which are connected together.
Using nuts, squeeze the bottle and attach a weight on one side.

The process of making a plastic brush

This design is suitable for cleaning metal, ceramic channels.

From a broom

A chimney brush can be made from an ordinary plastic broom, which is now a network in almost every household. Manufacturing stage:

Cut off the stem.
We straighten the “bristle”, you can use a hair dryer. After straightening, we clamp with a hairpin with a washer.
From the side of the handle we wind the hairpin with a hook.
The structure is tightened on both sides, after which a cable with a sinker is attached.

Great for cleaning wide channels.

From a metal brush for a grinder

A metal ruff or brush can even be made from such a device. At the moment, the price is not so high, so we recommend buying a finished product. If you decide to make a chimney brush with your own hands, remember that you will need two sheets, a threaded stud and nuts. Also, do not forget to use a hard wire or, in some cases, nylon as a "bristle".

From a metal cable, a difficult option

A cable can also be used to clean chimneys. The manufacturing process is much more complicated and requires certain efforts and skills. You will need a cable, preferably from 1 cm in diameter. An edge of about 10 cm is unraveled into individual fibers. They unbend in different directions, and in order to hold the form to clean the pipe, two plates are taken and compressed. A counterweight must be attached to the bottom edge to break up lumps and soot growths.

Stove heating not only does not lose ground, but is also experiencing its rebirth. For this reason, the issues of proper operation and maintenance of solid fuel units are no less acute than several centuries ago. With how to heat the stove, and what kind of wood is best to use, the owners of private households have no difficulty. Problems begin when the draft disappears and the smoke begins to go into the room. And the whole reason is the smoke channel clogged with soot and soot. It is problematic to find a chimney sweep today, so you will have to carry out maintenance of the chimney yourself. All you need is a chimney brush that you can make yourself.

What causes clogged chimneys

Such advantages of furnace heating as efficiency, autonomy and the ability to create a special, homely atmosphere cannot be surpassed by any modern heating device. Thanks to this, stoves and fireplaces are still widely used both in rural areas and in cities. At the same time, the use of solid fuels has many disadvantages, one of which is the need for regular cleaning of smoke channels. But the frequency of their maintenance can be significantly reduced if you know where so much soot and soot come from.

Deposits in the chimney can completely block the smoke outlet

So, the main factors that contribute to the clogging of chimneys are:

incineration of waste, which consists of high-carbon materials (all types of plastic, polyethylene, foam, cardboard, etc.);
use of wet firewood;
violation of the operating mode of the heating device;
firewood firebox that contains a large amount of resins (pine, spruce, fir, etc.);
ash is rarely removed from the working chambers of the furnace;
violation of the fuel supply regime;
foreign debris.

In addition, rapid fouling of the chimney can be caused by increased roughness of the flue walls and their incorrect configuration. For this reason, it is better to entrust the construction of the furnace to an experienced craftsman.

Dangers posed by soot accumulation

It is impossible not to notice problems with the chimney. Most often, they will indicate the following signs:

traction decreases;
firewood does not light up well when kindling;
smoke is coming into the room;
decrease in the thermal efficiency of the furnace.

All these factors indicate such a strong clogging of the gas duct that only a narrow hole remains for the exit of combustion products. The use of the heater in such conditions is prohibited, since this often leads to tragic consequences:

Chimney cleaners

Remove deposits from the chimney can be chemically and mechanically. The first involves the combustion in the furnace of substances whose combustion products soften soot deposits and contribute to their combustion and removal in a natural way. The second is to remove soot from the walls of the chimney with various scrapers, brushes, etc.

Chemicals for cleaning the chimney allow you to do without mechanical devices, but have a fairly high cost

Practice shows that mechanical cleaning is best done with a hard brush, similar to that used for washing dishes with a narrow neck. A variety of materials are suitable for the manufacture of such a tool:

steel rope;
plastic bottles;
pieces of steel wire;
thick fishing line or plastic rods;
springs;
thick rubber;
metal chain or strong rope;
various weights and weights.

The choice of one or another material for the manufacture of a chimney brush depends on how persistent soot deposits will have to be removed. For regularly maintained chimneys made of steel or asbestos-cement pipes, a tool with soft bristles is suitable, while brick flues with many years of soot deposits can only be cleaned with a metal wire brush. It is best to have several devices of varying degrees of hardness in your arsenal or make one combined tool.

How to make a stove tool

Before proceeding with the manufacture of a device for removing soot deposits, it is necessary to consider its design and dimensions. In this case, it is necessary to take into account:

chimney length;
flue diameter;
amount and persistence of deposits.

Based on the input data, conclusions are drawn about the length of the cable, the mass of the load, the size of the brush and its rigidity.

The design of the device for cleaning soot mechanically

The length of the rope or cable used to hold the brush is taken with a margin of 2–2.5 meters. This will allow you to hold the device more firmly in your hands, and if necessary, make a loop around the chimney so as not to drop the tool into the chimney. Any load can be used as a weight - from a specially cast lead blank to some heavy nut or a car part that has become unusable.

Making a plastic ruff

A budget brush for removing soot from a chimney can be easily made from improvised means. To make a plastic ruff you will need:

broom made of polypropylene rods;
plumbing cable of the required length;
metal hairpin with a diameter of 8 mm with an eyelet;
nut with a diameter of 8 mm with an eye;
washer with a diameter of at least 50 mm with a hole of 8 mm;
2 carabiners;
load of 0.5–2 kg.

If you can't find a stud and lug nut, don't despair - a regular bolt will do. Loops for fastening the cable and cargo can be made of steel wire.

Materials that will be needed to make a plastic chimney brush

The diameter of the brush made of plastic elements should be slightly larger than the cross section of the smoke channel. This will provide increased pressure of individual rods on the walls of the chimney and increase the speed of cleaning.

The work is performed in the following order:

A stalk is cut off or twisted from a synthetic broom - it will not be needed in the future. To make it more convenient to work, the rest is clamped in a vice.
The bristle of a round broom is unbent to the sides. To make the material more pliable, the brush is dipped in boiling water or heated with a building hair dryer.
Plastic broom bars need to be straightened
If there is no hole inside the holder, then a hole with a diameter of 8 mm should be made.
On the side where the handle is attached, a steel pin with an eye is inserted into the hole.
The hairpin allows you to fix the bristles in the desired position
From the side of the rods, a washer is installed on the stud and pressed with a nut with lugs.
The eye nut allows not only fixing the ruff rods, but also attaching a load and a cable to it
The rods are cut, focusing on the diameter of the chimney.
Excessively long rods should be cut
A loop is made on one side of the cable, securing the metal edge with knitting wire.
With the help of carbines, a cable is attached to one eye, and a load to the other.
Ruff for the chimney can be made by hand

In addition to a synthetic broom, plastic containers from soda water are a good material for making a soft brush. To make a "lush" brush, you will need 5-6 of these vessels and a sharp knife. It is necessary to cut off the bottom of all bottles, and dissolve the walls into strips with a width of 3 to 10 mm. After that, all containers, except for one, cut off the neck, getting a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the neck. Assembly into a single structure is carried out by fitting the parts onto the remaining threaded part and fixing them with a cover. After that, drilling is done for a hairpin and the ruff is attached to the cable and weight in the manner described above.

To make the bristles from a plastic bottle more rigid, they are heated with a burner or a building hair dryer. The same method can be used to give the brush the desired shape.

How to make a metal brush

To make a metal cleaning tool, you can use pieces of steel wire (cable) or use a wire brush for a grinder. In the latter case, the angle grinder is simply mounted on a cable with a load and fastened with a wire. If the use of a working tool for other purposes is unacceptable for you, then you can make a metal ruff with your own hands. For this you will need:

The manufacturing technology of a metal brush is not difficult:

The simplicity of this method makes it extremely popular among home craftsmen. And at the same time, there is another very interesting tool that combines both a brush for removing soot and a load. In addition to the tools and materials described above, you will need:

steel pipe with a diameter of more than 50 mm;
electric drill;
high carbon steel core;
drill for metal, the diameter of which corresponds to the cross section of the wire or cable;
sand-cement mortar.

To make a brush, in the same way as in the previous case, prepare the required number of flexible elements. Then proceed as follows:

Through holes are made in the walls of the steel pipe. The density and uniformity of the bristles depend on the accuracy of this work and the step between drillings, so this stage should be taken as responsibly as possible.
Wire elements are threaded into the holes, placing their edges symmetrically with respect to the pipe.
A steel bar is installed in the center, to which the retaining cable will be attached in the future.
The inner surface of the pipe is filled with mortar, which will ensure the fixation of the flexible elements and make the fixture heavy enough.

The tool can only be used after the cement-sand mixture has set and acquired the necessary strength.

Video: how to make a ruff to remove soot from a chimney

What you need to know before lowering the tool into the chimney

The chimney should not be cleaned at the end of the heating season, but at the very beginning. This will allow you to be completely sure that there is no bird's nest, cork from cobwebs and leaves or other debris in the chimney. One of the warm and windless days in early autumn is best suited for this.

When cleaning the chimney, take care of the appropriate equipment and insurance.

Before changing into a chimney sweep suit and proceeding with the maintenance of the chimney, it is necessary to close all dampers and oven doors. Soot is the smallest particles that can seep into any cracks and pollute the room and the objects that are in it. If you have to service the fireplace pipe with an open firebox, then it is sealed with a plastic film and adhesive tape.

The process of cleaning the chimney is not difficult. Ruff is repeatedly lowered into the smoke channel, knocking deposits from the walls. To enhance the effect, alternate reciprocating movements with twisting the cable in different directions. The soot falls down. You can remove it through the revision hatch, using a scoop, poker and whisk.

There are situations when the device in the middle of the path stumbles upon an insurmountable obstacle. It can be any voluminous object - some kind of rag, a bird's nest or a piece of brick that has fallen out of the masonry. In this case, the ruff is unfastened and the resulting congestion is knocked out with only one weight, in the expectation that the cork will fall into the stove. After that, the brush is returned to its place and cleaning activities are resumed.

Even where the latest, high-tech solid fuel equipment is used, regular soot removal will be required. Ruff, which you can make with your own hands, will cope with dignity even with the most persistent deposits. It is only important not to postpone the work of cleaning the chimney indefinitely - not only the thermal efficiency and efficiency of the stove, but also the safety of your family depends on this.

When using any solid fuel, products of incomplete combustion accumulate in the chimney, which settle on the walls in the form of a soft coating. If you do not clean it in time, the clearance will decrease, which will significantly worsen traction. And so much so that the smoke goes into the room. In the worst case, the soot can catch fire, which is fraught with the destruction of the pipe or even a fire. Cleaning the chimney is practically the only way to avoid this. It is necessary to inspect the condition of the pipe twice a year - before and after the heating season. And how often you have to clean it depends on whether you use preventive chimney cleaning methods or not.

This is the result of a soot fire.

There are two types of chimney cleaning type:

Chimney sweeps have been cleaning soot in this way for centuries. Cleaning is carried out from the roof. A special projectile is lowered into the pipe - a core, to the center of which a flexible cable is welded / attached. Above the core there is a brush that crushes soot, and the core is a weighting element that simultaneously checks the patency of the pipe. When working, you need to be careful: if the traction is good, knocked down soot and other debris will fly into your face. Therefore, first put on goggles and a respirator, and also tie yourself to a pipe: with a sudden release in the face, a person involuntarily makes a sharp movement. How it can end on the roof, you can probably imagine.

This design - a ruff with a core on a cable - can be done independently, but the main snag is in the right load. It should be round and centered. No ordinary weights, heavy pieces of iron are suitable. They work for the time being, and then the tied load becomes “by surprise” in the pipe and no efforts can get it out of there. Often, in order to extract the projectile, disassembly of a fragment of the chimney is required. If you are going to clean the chimney yourself, either make or buy the “right projectile” that under no circumstances will get stuck in the chimney. Taping a brush, making it from metal or synthetic bristles - these are already details that usually do not cause difficulties.

Sometimes the pipe is too high to be reached even from the roof. In this case, the chimney is cleaned from below. If the chimney is metal and there is a cleaning glass, it is unscrewed and a ruff on a flexible rod is filled into the pipe. In some cases, not rods are used, but rigid wire. If there is no glass, maybe there is a cleaning hole, if there is none, then you will either have to disassemble the beginning of the chimney, or clean it through the firebox, which is completely inconvenient.

There is one more thing: if the pipe is metal, brushing is not enough - a large amount of plaque remains on the walls. In order for the cleaning to be of high quality, instead of a brush, a lump of rags is wound onto a wire or rod. Such cleaning of the chimney leaves behind almost perfectly clean walls.

Homemade chimney brush

One option is to make a cleaning brush out of polypropylene pipes. Pipes are cut into fragments of approximately 1.5 meters. Threaded fittings are installed on the ends. A metal brush for a grinder is attached to one of them.

Previously, the wire on the brush is fluffed with pliers or pliers. It turns out a home-made cleaning telescopic rod for the chimney.

How to make a chimney cleaner from a plastic bottle, see the video.

How to clean a very high or curved chimney

Sometimes the pipe rises very high above the ridge. Not to call a special vehicle with a lifting platform every time to clean the chimney? The issue is resolved with the help of a very long cable, in the middle of which a brush of a suitable diameter is attached.

A small load is tied to the end of the cable, thrown into the pipe, pulled out from the other end. The cable remains inside, and its second end hangs outside. When it becomes necessary to shake the soot, they simply pull one end, then the other, moving the brush tied to the cable. The total length of the cable is three pipe heights.

In the same way, the problem of a pipe with a bend is solved - you only have to somehow drag the cable through the knee for the first time, and then you only need to pull the ends of the cable.

Soot cleaning chemicals

Any chemical means are only preventive measures and a way to make mechanical cleaning more rare. You can cope without mechanical removal of plaque only if you have a stainless steel or ceramic chimney, and then, with the regular use of one or more products from this category.

Keep in mind that if you haven't cleaned your chimney for a long time, and you start using one of the chemicals, there is a chance that you will completely "plug" the draft. These substances do not remove or dissolve deposits, but only soften them. Softened soot and soot either fly away in the form of flakes into the pipe, or fall down. If the stove is reversible, with long curved smoke channels, soot can clog the gap. It will be necessary to open the cleaning windows, remove the soot and everything that has fallen in there. If the pipe is straight, after using these products, it is necessary to clean the firebox - within a few days, the fallen sediment will pour into it.

Folk chemicals

Let's start with "folk" means for dissolving soot. Even our grandmothers periodically sprinkled a certain amount of salt on burning firewood. So that at the same time soot flies into the chimney, and does not pour in, the chimney is very well heated, the fireman at full power for a while. Then half a kilogram-kilogram of salt is poured into the fire and they continue to heat for another hour and a half. If the pipe is hot enough, gray or black flakes will start flying into the pipe. For several days, then the remains can pour inward, but the bulk burns out in the pipe.

Many are well acquainted with the effects of potato starch. In the same way, with a well-heated stove, they pour on firewood near a bucket of potato peelings (you can chopped potatoes, you can starch). The effect is almost the same, with the only difference that almost everything falls inside.

Another option for “folk” chimney cleaners is to burn a few aluminum cans. In this case, the fire must be really hot: firewood with a high heat capacity is needed. Then aluminum really burns - the can disappears in 5-7 minutes. If it just darkens, there will be no effect.

store preparations

There are a variety of chimney cleaners available in stores. Some of them are produced in the form of packaged powder, others - in the form of logs or briquettes. Read the instructions before buying. There are preparations intended for open fireboxes - such as a fireplace, there are - for closed ones, such as bath or heating stoves. It is not recommended to interchange them - after all, chemistry ...

The range of chemicals for cleaning the chimney is constantly updated, but there are drugs that have existed for more than a dozen years. Their impact has already been well studied. Below we will talk about the most popular and common.

The composition of these funds, of course, is not disclosed, the principle of operation is rather poorly described: under the influence of gases released during combustion (safe for humans), soot dries up, burns out, becomes brittle and flies out into the pipe or crumbles down. Review the log for cleaning the chimney "Saginet Chimney Sweep" in the video.

Thermal chimney cleaning methods

The action of this method is based on the fact that soot is a high-calorie combustible substance. The temperature in the chimney is brought to the point where it flares up and burns out. The problem is that the burning temperature of soot is about 1100°C and few chimneys and fire cuts (when passing through the ceiling or roof) are able to withstand such heating.

Its one very unpleasant and dangerous feature is that if a lot of soot has accumulated, the moment of ignition is very similar to an explosion. Almost the same sound is heard, and the air wave is palpable. So, not weak shock load is added to the extremely high temperatures. There were times when even the coarse stoves fell apart. So this method is a dangerous undertaking.

Thermal cleaning is implemented simply: take dry aspen firewood and heat the stove. Their burning temperature is very high, and after a while the soot flares up. If aspen is heated periodically, the deposits simply do not have time to be deposited in sufficient quantities to cause any tangible harm during combustion. But on a clogged chimney, this method is dangerous to use.

Periodic cleaning of the chimney is an important point in the maintenance of heating equipment. It is needed even when using high-quality expensive firewood and modern stove installations. Fine particles of combustion products gradually accumulate on the walls of the smokers and impair the operation of the system. Even a person who does not have special skills and experience in such a matter can clean the chimney.

The main tool to help will be a cleaning brush, which you can do yourself. This tool helps to keep the smoke exhaust system clean, and therefore maintain the draft for the rapid removal of gases, and ensure the efficient operation of the furnace device.

The use of solid fuel for furnace heating has a lot of advantages, such as efficiency, autonomy, heat transfer.

However, if used incorrectly, the efficiency of the heating system can deteriorate significantly. It is recommended to clean the chimneys at least once every six months. But first you need to identify the main causes of clogging and try to minimize them.

Interesting! When wood is burned, gas and smoke are produced. The smoke emitted may be white or black. The first is a consequence of water vapor, evaporating from wood or coal, and black comes from coal and soot. It is the second type of smoke that leads to the deposition of the smallest soot particles and pollution of the chimney.

In addition to this natural process, pipe clogging can lead to:

Burning in the furnace of various garbage containing a large amount of hydrocarbons (plastic, polyethylene, foam, hard paper, cardboard).
Application of damp and tar-containing firewood or briquettes.
Wrong laying of firewood in the firebox.
Rare cleaning of pipes from ash.
Malfunction of the heating boiler.

The accumulation of soot and ash inside the outlet pipe leads to the following consequences:

The passage for smoke narrows, which can cause reverse thrust when carbon monoxide goes into the apartment.
Large soot particles fly out of the chimney, creating a fire hazard.