Currently, many owners of private houses can afford to decorate the walls of a building with clapboard. As examples, numerous photos of wall coverings with clapboards are posted on the Internet. This material has all the thermal insulation properties of natural wood, and also has excellent frost-resistant properties, is not susceptible to various weather influences and sharp changes temperature.
Such high quality finish at home allows you to create a favorable and healthy environment inside the building. It should also be noted that clapboards made of wood, unlike metal and plastic panels, buildings are sheathed not only on the outside, but also on the inside.
Work order
Wooden lining can be used to decorate residential premises made in virtually any style.
Wall finishing with clapboard is carried out in the following sequence:
- Preparation of the structure begins with insulation and waterproofing work on the outside of the building.
- Selection finishing material and profiles or wooden beams for lathing.
- Installation of electrical wiring in the room.
- Leveling the surface, installing lathing and insulating material on it.
- Finishing the premises with this material, according to the scheme initially determined by the owner of the house.
- Installation of sockets and electric lamps.
- Device corner profiles, baseboards and door frames.
Materials
Lining is boards of different thicknesses, made from various types of wood. These products received this name due to their original use in railway. Initially, railway cars were finished inside wooden slats small sizes.
The modern market has made significant changes, and plastic and MDF panels have appeared on sale, but despite these innovations, cladding walls with clapboards in an apartment or private housing construction still remains in great demand.
Today on the finishing materials market there is a huge amount various types linings, which are sold by numerous companies. For this reason, you must carefully select the product before paying for it.
When purchasing, it is important to pay attention to the following points:
- The packaged material must be stored horizontally on a special substrate.
- The air humidity in the room intended for storing goods must correspond to the standard.
- Products located on outdoors under sun rays, loses its qualities and properties.
Information about the shelf life and shelf life of the product must be indicated on the label; you must also pay attention to this when purchasing the material. Compliance with all these rules and precautions significantly reduces the risk.
It is also better to purchase these products with a small supply to avoid the need to re-purchase them.
Installation of facing products
Currently, finishing teams use two methods for covering the surface of walls. These options are also used by homeowners who decide to carry out landscaping on their own. We will consider further how and how to finish the clapboard with your own hands.
The first option is as follows, you need to prepare perfectly flat surface, after which the finishing materials are attached to the surface using an adhesive mass.
Another option is to cover the surface using a lathing frame, to which the finishing product is attached. This method also involves additional insulation walls, special insulation. That is why this option is considered more preferable.
In addition, it is necessary to determine in advance what type of clapboard surface finishing, horizontal or vertical, is most suitable for the home owner.
You can also use combined cladding options in the interior of your room. This is when part of the areas are finished horizontally, and part of the materials are fixed using vertical installation, thus combining wall decoration.
Once the owner has decided on the options, you can begin installing the finishing panels. To begin, prepare the necessary tools and material for the frame - an electric drill, a screwdriver, levels, a hammer, pliers and electric jigsaw or an ordinary hacksaw for metal, as well as metal profiles for lathing and all kinds of dowels, screws, nails, self-tapping screws and so on.
The frame of the sheathing is attached to the surface in the most careful manner. Profiles are placed vertically or horizontally, depending on the chosen method of fastening the panels.
- The profiles must be assembled and fastened perpendicular to the panels.
- Between metal slats It is necessary to maintain approximately half a meter distance.
- IN mandatory leave gaps from the floor and from the ceiling.
- The installation of profiles is constantly checked using a level.
After completing the assembly of the sheathing, it is filled with insulation specially prepared for this purpose.
Now you need to start installing the lining itself. At this point, the owner has already chosen the option of installing the material, and the finishing panels themselves usually begin to be mounted on the surface of one of the solid walls. 
Photo of wall covering with clapboard
The only logical option for finishing a log frame or timber house– wood paneling. Of course, the walls of the bathroom and toilet can be partially or completely tiled, and an apron can be made of tiles at the sink and stove of the kitchen working triangle, but no more. All other surfaces must comply general style. And the most common way is to decorate the walls with clapboard in a wooden house. The installation itself does not take much time, and the choice of wood species and panel profiles is very large.
Interior decoration wooden house clapboard fits organically into the rustic style
Grade of lining
Under the general name “lining” in the catalogs of manufacturers and sellers there are at least a dozen varieties of wooden cladding boards. And since there is no single standard, and each domestic manufacturer works according to their own technical specifications, then they all differ from each other in size and profile type. Even in determining the grade of lining based on the quality of the wood and the cleanliness of the surface treatment, there are certain “liberties” of interpretation.
Important! Determine which lining is best for interior decoration at home should only be based on their own ideas about class and quality. “Premium” or “extra” is from the evil one. Sellers are simply trying to attract buyers with such big names.
According to the “old” domestic GOST (for profile parts made of wood) there are two grades. They conventionally divide products into “transparent” and “opaque” coatings. Essentially, there are two grades - I and II.
Eurolining (which was not necessarily brought from Europe) must comply with the European standard DIN 68126, and there are three grades - A, B, C.
The prefix "euro" does not mean high quality– there is also a second grade here
Selection of lining
Conventionally, the entire range of linings can be divided into four large classes:
Domestic profiles. The simplest one is a quarter board. It is rarely used, since there is no convenient “tenon-to-groove” connection. The more common profiles are “standard” and “collective farmer” (“calm”). In the first case, the bevels at the ends of the front panel are standard (at an angle of 45°), in the second - rounded.
Eurolining. It is distinguished by a deeper groove and the presence of a “shelf” in front of the elongated tenon. There are also two design options: standard eurolining has beveled chamfers along the front surface, “soft line” – rounded.
Imitation of timber. By the type of profile, this is a typical “standard” lining, but only more powerful. And although there is overlap at the edges of the size ranges, the difference lies in the purpose. Imitation of timber is used when, when finishing, it is necessary to preserve the style of a “timber” house. Therefore, this type of panels is mounted mainly horizontally (and lining is often installed vertically).
The imitation timber is wider, and it completely repeats the laying of its “full-length” counterpart
Block house. The scope of application is the same as that of imitation timber. But in this case, the front surface of the panel has an oval profile, which, when installed, repeats the relief of the wall made of rounded logs. For interior decoration, the thinnest panels are chosen. They are mounted exclusively horizontally.
If the finishing of the facade is mainly done using lining made from coniferous species wood, then the choice for the interior is much wider. In addition to the “popular” pine or larch, you can find offers for the sale of lining made of cedar, oak, linden, ash and even exotic overseas species.
For living rooms there are no restrictions on operating conditions and humidity conditions. The only room where high humidity and “wet” conditions are dangerous for wood is the bathroom. In this case, it is better to use factory-processed lining - conventional technology“painting” with antiseptics protects only the top layer, and vacuum impregnation in the factory makes the wood in the “mass” invulnerable to moisture and fungal damage, including from the underside surface. Another modern version“factory” protection – heat treatment of panels.
Good to know! Impregnation is one of the most effective methods impregnation, since during the impregnation process air is removed from the pores of the wood, and an antiseptic solution is “pushed” into its place under pressure.
There are also such types of lining profiles as “land house”, finca and a whole subspecies “ wooden wallpaper", differ from conventional lining and eurolining difficult terrain front surface. These are decorative wood panels, which are used in doses - for finishing small areas.
The “brick” lining has a relief similar to brickwork
On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of wooden houses from construction companies, presented at the exhibition of houses “Low-Rise Country”.
Technology
Finishing with lining inside a house can be divided into several main stages: preparation, installation of sheathing, fastening of panels, installation of additional profiles.
Preparation and installation of sheathing
Cladding interior walls of a wooden house occurs along the lathing. And this is one of the few possibilities for hidden installation electrical networks. Of course, you can stretch cables and wires under the floor surface or in the attic along the ceiling, but the vertical sections to sockets and switches must be pulled along the walls. And this is not brick or construction concrete blocks- already in a log or timber standing house It is very difficult to cut a channel, especially considering the constant “breathing” of a wooden house.
And here the main thing is to correctly lay the cables and install the socket boxes. The peculiarity of a wooden house is that all power circuit cables are hidden wiring on a flammable base must be carried out in metal pipes (steel or copper). These are the requirements of the PUE. And the wall thickness should ensure cable localization when short circuit– the walls of the pipe should not “burn out” from the arc. Therefore, neither plastic nor metal corrugation is suitable here.
As an alternative to hidden wiring under the lining - retro style with open wiring on ceramic insulators
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer house insulation services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.
First stage preparatory work– pipe laying, installation metal boxes for sockets and switches. And based on the diameter of the pipe and the height of the boxes, the cross-section of the timber for the sheathing is selected.
The lining must be delivered in advance so that the wood can adapt to operating conditions. Usually they are kept for several days, even if the wood is seasoned and has its own normalized moisture content.
Necessarily! If the lining is packed, then it must be unpacked.
During this time, the timber for the sheathing must be treated with an antiseptic.
The next stage is marking for the sheathing. The lining is usually mounted vertically, and the house block and imitation timber are installed horizontally. The sheathing is made perpendicular to the panels.
Combined wall decoration with clapboard in a wooden house
Note! Sometimes the lining is laid diagonally. In this case, the sheathing can also be made vertical, but with a smaller step.
The spacing of the sheathing timber depends on the thickness of the panels - the thicker it is, the wider the pitch. The recommended layout range is 50-80 cm. And the specific value is chosen so that from corner to corner the sheathing bars stand at approximately the same distance.
Video description
Laconic and accessible about the three main mistakes preparatory stage explained in the following video:
Installation of lining
Decorating the house with clapboards in each room begins from the corner, which is “in plain sight.” At this point, both walls should converge equal, and preferably intact, panels. But if the trim ends in a very narrow strip at the other corner, it will look unattractive. Therefore, before starting installation, it is necessary to calculate the number of whole panels and the width of the “remainder”. If it turns out to be narrow, then installation should begin with a trimmed panel.
Along the perimeter of the plane being sheathed, small gaps should be left to the adjacent surfaces
The first panel is positioned with a groove from the corner outward. If the panel is intact, then place the tenon in the corner. Fastening to the sheathing from the tenon side is carried out with thin nails, which are driven in at such a distance from the corner that their heads can be closed decorative corner.
From the groove side, the lining is secured to the sheathing with clamps.
The next panel is inserted into the groove first. If you are tiling a bathroom or toilet, do not push it all the way, leaving 1-2 mm to compensate for changes in size due to fluctuations in humidity.
Video description
The entire sequence of work is clearly shown in the video:
Important! It is also forbidden to connect lining panels end to end for interior decoration of a house. seasonal residence.
Features of interior finishing with block house and imitation timber
Only thin and narrow panels of this type of lining can be mounted on clamps; other standard sizes are mounted on nails or self-tapping screws. But if the wooden house is for seasonal use, and in winter there are “visits” in it, then in any case it is better to choose traditional mechanical fasteners.
There are two options for fastening with self-tapping screws:
open method– for “thick” panels;
through the base of the tenon, or hidden way(for panels of medium thickness).
Fastening through the base of the tenon is more difficult, but this method is the most reliable for thick panels
To decorate the corners of a block house, one of four techniques is used:
washed down the panels at an angle of 45°;
through the docking bar with a side equal to the thickness of the panel in the wave;
by using wooden corner or two boards connected at an angle;
panel adjustment on one side of the wall under the profile of the other wall, but for this the layout relative to each other is shifted by half the width of the panel.
It is the latter joining option that allows you to obtain the most reliable simulation of the room inside wooden log house from rounded logs. Although the execution of a figured neckline will require some skill in marking and fitting. And it will take longer.
This method of designing corners requires precise marking and mastery of the instrument
Conclusion is a last resort...
There are other options for finishing a wooden house: slatted panels from fiberboard and PVC. But they are used extremely rarely - only when there is an urgent need to make repairs at the lowest possible cost. Fiberboard tolerates high humidity less well, and the laminated surface is easily damaged. Plastic lining in a wooden house will naturally look only in the bathroom or toilet.
The lining is perfect for finishing ceilings, external and external cladding walls and even door trim. Regardless of the cladding object, the panels are fastened according to the same pattern. At the same time, you can easily handle the installation of the lining yourself. Study the basic instructions and get started.
First step
Prepare the lining for the upcoming installation. Soak the material with antiseptic and fire retardant. If desired, you can additionally treat the panels with stain or paint them in the desired color.
Let the treated lining dry and bring the material into the room to be finished. Leave it for a day. The wood adapts to environmental conditions, which eliminates the risk of further deformation.
Second step
Mount the sheathing on the surface to be finished. Buy slats or make them yourself from inch boards or 5x5 cm timber. Attach the sheathing elements in increments 10-20 mm smaller than the width of the future insulation. Fix it using screws or self-tapping screws. The fastening spacing is half a meter.
Control the evenness of the frame using special tools.
Third step
Cover the sheathing waterproofing material (polyethylene film, fastened with a construction stapler), place insulation in the cells (if required, optimal material – mineral wool, lay tightly, without gaps), and then cover with a thermal insulation layer vapor barrier material(attach to the sheathing with a construction stapler).
Fourth step
Attach to wooden sheathing for insulation, a second lathing, intended directly for fixing the lining.
Attach beams or boards perpendicular to the future sheathing and at the same time perpendicular to the frame for insulating materials. That is, the method of attaching the sheathing (horizontally or vertically) needs to be determined for yourself even before attaching the first sheathing.
Treat the sheathing elements with an antiseptic.
There are several options for fastening the boards, and different fasteners can be used to mount the panels. Read the information provided and start finishing.
Mounting options
Choose the method of fixing the lining at your discretion. Factory lining initially has tongues and grooves that allow each subsequent cladding board to be fastened to the previous one.
To fix the lining, you can use staples, clamps, screws and nails. The fastening itself can be done covertly or openly.
As already noted, choose the fastening method at your discretion. The main thing is that the fixation is as reliable and high-quality as possible, and that the lining itself remains without damage. Sink the heads of nails and screws into the wood.
The most accurate and at the same time the most complex method of fixing the sheathing involves nailing directly into the grooves of the lining. This way the nails will be almost invisible.
Clippers are perfect for high-quality fixation of boards. Select the appropriate type of fastener in accordance with the thickness of the grooves of your decorative boards. On one side of the clamp there are teeth - with them the fasteners cut into the grooves of the finishing material. On the other hand, the clamp must be nailed or screwed to the frame. As a rule, nails are initially included in the set with clamps.
An option for fastening the lining is also available, which involves the use of special brackets. In this case it is used mounting gun. The bracket shoots a groove in the board and secures it to the frame. To perform such installation you need to have the appropriate skills.
The lining is treated with the necessary impregnations, the lathing is installed, the necessary insulation materials laid, installation method selected. Now all that remains is to attach the lining directly.
Decide on the optimal direction for placing the cladding elements - this has already been discussed earlier.
Focus on your preferences and features of the room. For example, horizontal decoration allows you to visually expand the room, making it visually more spacious.
When placed vertically, the lining will visually increase the height of the room.
First step
Proceed to attaching the lining. Start sheathing the walls from the ceiling to the floor. At the same time, try to direct the grooves downward - thanks to this, various debris will not get into them in the future, which will contribute to a significant increase in the service life of the skin.
Second step
Fix the clapboard sheet onto the sheathing bars. Use convenient fasteners. Insert the tenon of the next sheathing element into the groove of the fixed board. Secure it. Cover the entire planned space in this order.
Every 5-10 sheathing elements, be sure to check the evenness of the surface using a plumb line or level.
Third step
Having reached the last board of the lining, adjust it to the width with a regular hacksaw or other suitable tool. Nail the board and hide the gap under the decorative baseboard.
Fourth step
Clean the finishing surface from dust using a damp sponge. If you wish, you can finish painting the lining, but this is not necessary - the wood already has an attractive appearance and a beautiful shade.
If a special lining will be used for the cladding, which outwardly imitates a rounded log, start finishing with the groove facing up - this way you will hide the joints.
Additionally, the panels can be adjusted using a hammer, placing a piece of board under it - this way the finish will be fixed without gaps.
To fasten the “rounded” lining, use self-tapping screws. Twist the fasteners at 45 degrees. Place treated timber between the panels of such sheathing. This will create beautiful finish no gaps.
First step
Start attaching the clapboard boards from the corner. The first clapboard board in the corner must be secured with nails. The fastener caps will later be hidden under the decorative corner. If you don’t want to buy a corner, simply bite off the caps using a side cutter.
Second step
Continue fixing the sheathing boards until the entire planned surface is covered. Work as with horizontal finishing, inserting one element into another and fixing it one by one.
Third step
When you reach the last board, cut it to size and nail it to the frame.
In the end, all that remains is to decorate the sheathing with special slats, plinths, and corners - these elements allow you to hide the joints and properly decorate the corners.
The ceiling is sheathed with the material in question in the same order as the walls. The only note is that the lining should begin to be attached from the window opening to the opposite wall. With this placement, the shadows between the cladding elements will be less noticeable.
Thus, there is absolutely nothing complicated about installing the lining yourself. To extend the service life of the cladding, re-treat it with an antiseptic and fire retardant every 2-3 years. Otherwise, follow the instructions and you will create the highest quality, durable and aesthetically pleasing finish.
Happy work!
Video - Installation of lining with your own hands
To cover walls with clapboard you do not need to have special knowledge or super-skill. All you need to do is your desire and a little time. Lining is one of the most durable materials for interior decoration. It is best to use wooden lining, as its service life is much longer than that of plastic. But if you are experiencing financial difficulties, then you can use a plastic one, it is a little cheaper.
There are several ways to install lining indoors and outdoors. Some of them are described in detail in the proposed material.
Preparing for clapboard covering
Before installation, it is necessary to process the material used protective equipment in order to avoid subsequent processes of rotting or mold formation. After which you need to bring the lining into the house to dry. This is done so that the wood “gets used” to room temperature and in the future does not crack or shrink significantly. The lining must be installed on a special sheathing. How to make it is discussed below.
Installation process
Self-production of lathing for lining
There are several types of lining installation, but it all comes down to the only and most basic installation requirement - the production of sheathing for the lining. The most durable type is lathing made from high-quality wood.
Before starting work, you need to choose wood with a moisture percentage of about 16 units, since when it gets too dry, it begins to narrow, can crack, and is even, quality installation the clapboards can be forgotten.
The tree should not have resinous discharge on the end, any cracks or knots, as this has a negative impact on the installation process and the appearance of the entire lined surface.
- About humidity, check with distributors; this parameter cannot be determined independently.
Installation of sheathing under the lining
We determine the direction of the bars and the installation level of the sheathing. The sheathing bars must be fastened in a perpendicular direction relative to the direction of the lining itself. The level is determined at will.
- For the durability of the sheathing and the lining installed on it, before installation it is necessary to treat the wall with an antifungal agent.
Now you are faced with the actual process of installing the sheathing under the lining.
We fasten level guides along the walls using ordinary self-tapping screws;
1. attach the bars themselves. An important detail there will be a distance between the sheathing bars. It should be 50-60 cm, which will ensure reliable fixation linings;
2. then the gaskets are adjusted to the level and secured;
3. We fill the detected cracks with construction foam.
NOTE: If it was planned to cover a surface of a non-standard shape, then the fits should be made from parts of the bars, and not from solid material.
We treat the structure we receive with stain or other means of harmful insects and fungus. If desired, cover the surface with varnish or paint.
Let's consider installing lining on the wall. Your lining has completely dried, the sheathing has been done, and the fastening tool has been selected. You can begin the installation process. There are two types of technologies for covering walls with clapboard: horizontal and vertical methods. Which option will be chosen and how to make the sheathing for the lining depends on the purpose and your design taste.
Horizontal mounting option
It is most often used to create space in a room and creates the illusion of expanding the room. Covering the walls with clapboard starts from the floor, each subsequent board is laid on the previous one using the tongue-and-groove fastening system. This helps protect the lining from dirt penetration, it will last longer.
- We fasten the clapboard board at the edge with a self-tapping screw to the sheathing block. We carry out this operation with all the boards, then check the work using the rule and level for the quality of installation.
- In order not to leave a gap between the panels and not to damage the lining, we adjust them with a wooden hammer.
- We install the last board according to a different principle. We measure the remaining gap between the last panel and the edge of the wall. We file it, then install it and, if there is a gap left, we close it with a plinth.
Vertical mounting option
We start covering the walls with clapboard with our own hands from the corner of the room.
1. You need to install clamps on the back side of the lining board, then install the panel on the sheathing.
2. The first board is nailed.
3. To make the hats invisible, cover everything with a decorative corner. If there is no corner, you can simply bite off the nail heads with wire cutters.
4. Further installation proceeds in the same way as in horizontal way- We insert one board into another. Thus, a single canvas is built.
5. If the material is attached using clamps, then no gaps will form between the panels.
6. We complete the installation in the same way as we started - we nail the last board and cover the joints of the boards with a plinth or corner.
7. We give a beautiful appearance using varnish.
How to cover a ceiling with clapboard, action plan:
1. Coat all material with an anti-mold and mildew agent.
2. Install the sheathing on the ceiling.
3. Determine the amount of lining that is needed for cladding the ceiling.
4. The actual installation of the boards.
5. Giving the lining a beautiful appearance
We cover all the material with the purchased anti-fungal agent. We fix the lathing to the ceiling. If it is uneven or has deviations in level, then you need to eliminate them, otherwise you will not be able to install the lining perfectly. The sheathing must be secured evenly. We check this with a regular building level.
- In the only case we may not need lathing - if the ceiling is wooden. After these steps, we measure the size of the boards we need and we can begin installation.
If plastic lining is used, you need to work with great care so as not to damage this rather fragile material.
- The lining is installed in the direction of the light flow. This will prevent dust from accumulating on the lining and will create an attractive appearance for the room being decorated.
Installation wooden lining can be done at an angle, both vertically and horizontally. Fastening is done with small nails. It is necessary to leave a small distance to the walls so that natural ventilation of air flows occurs. The distance that has formed can later be covered with a plinth or any other decorative items. We treat the lining with varnish or paint. You can make holes for lamps or spotlights.
For the soul a feeling of coziness and peace, for the body - a state of comfort, and for health - an environmentally friendly atmosphere, all this is given to the premises by wall decoration with wood paneling. As an option wall cladding, can be applied plastic lining, laminate, MDF panels and other materials for wall decoration artificial origin. However, even with a pattern matching the wood texture, they will not be able to create the effect hearth and home, and they organically “finish” the walls only in offices.
Basic information
The experience of several generations of carpenters and finishers gives a clear understanding of the fact that covering walls with clapboards with your own hands requires not only skillful handling of the tool, but also knowledge about the material with which you have to work, and how to properly cover walls and partitions with it.
Lining belongs to the finishing raw materials of the seamless group, which is achieved by the presence of special connections (locks) between each component part of the cladding. According to the place of application, the material is divided into interior and exterior finishing. The lining is made from hardwood or resin-containing wood, as well as from artificially developed polymer products.
In this article we will talk about a narrow segment of finishing material - lining made from wood raw materials for interior finishing use. It is produced from hardwoods such as linden, oak, ash, larch; coniferous trees are dominated by spruce and pine, less often as very expensive and valuable breed, Siberian cedar.
Cheapness and ease of processing and installation have brought pine cladding boards to first place in popularity and prevalence.
Classification parameters
The lining is classified by type lock connection, grade and profile section.
Based on the type of connection, the facing board is divided into “end” and “ridge” locks. The end boards are connected using the “tongue and groove” method, and the ridge boards using the “quarter” method. These two types of connecting nodes allow the final result to be seamless coating clapboard walls.
The grade class determines the quality of processing and appearance of the facing material and has the following gradations:
- “Extra” is made from dried wood and has a uniform surface without flaws;
- “A-class” - the normalized presence of knots is set at 1 piece. by 1.5 m in length;
- “B-class” - no more than 4 defects are allowed per 1.5 m linear length;
- “C-class” - the number of knots is not standardized, the presence of resin stains and cracks on the front surface is allowed;
- “D-class” is a low-grade material with chips, cracks, holes from fallen knots, etc. on the front side. defects.
According to the profile cross-section and the depth of the tongue-and-groove lock, wall lining is divided into the following types:
- “Simple” - undergoes double-sided grinding of surfaces, is the ancestor of the “Eurostandard”, but with a smaller locking depth, the cross-section is rectangular, hence the corresponding name;
- “Standard”, “Eurostandard” or “Eurolining” - characterized by 4-sided sanding, can be used not only for wall cladding, but also for finishing ceilings;
- “Softline” - wide lining for walls with rounded edges;
- “American” - in the mounted position it simulates overlapping planks, thanks to the security of the lock, the groove of which is made in the thick part of the lining, it is applicable for cladding external walls;
- “Block house” is one of the varieties facing materials“lining” type, imitates the appearance of laid round logs, which creates the appearance of the wall of a wooden house, is used for cladding the walls of buildings, but can also be mounted inside a large area;
- “Finka” - has an oval cut, a more noble design in appearance compared to the “Block House”; focused on interior finishing work;
- "Landhouse" is a continuation of the "Eurostandard" class, the plank has a profiled cut and a shaped front part, suitable for internal lining clapboard;
- “Wave” is a decorative relief cladding board that can easily be combined with lining of other profiles thanks to a unified lock.
Materials, tools and equipment
Before starting such repair work When decorating walls with clapboards, it is necessary to collect all the tools that will be involved in the process of installing the cladding, as well as the materials to be installed. Ultimately, the list of required accessories will look like this:
- vapor barrier (polyethylene, roofing felt, foil) and insulation (based on mineral wool);
- bars (for example, 20 by 40 mm, as the most acceptable size and therefore widely used for all types of facing boards) and the lining itself;
- driving screws 60 mm long and a dowel 6 mm, this is the case when the load-bearing wall is brick or concrete; if the wall is wooden, then wood screws 5.5 mm long are needed;
- special stainless steel nails with a standard size of 2 by 40 mm for fastening the clapboard strip “into the tongue” or a set of clamps with wood screws 15 mm long, a hammer, a construction or furniture stapler for fastening the vapor barrier to the slats;
- a jigsaw or a hacksaw for wood with a miter box (a special device for cutting at angles of 90 and 45 degrees);
- a screwdriver with a Phillips head for self-tapping screws and a set of wood drills (if you have a powerful professional screwdriver, you can skip the drill), as well as a hammer drill and a Pobedit drill with a diameter that matches the diameter of the dowels for driving screws;
- moisture-repellent and antiseptic impregnations for processing bars and lining, colorless primer for wood, as well as colorless varnish with a water-based base that does not emit unpleasant odor and emphasizes the wood texture.
It is advisable to make a list in advance necessary tools, pick them up and fold them so that they are always “at hand”, this saves time, and then forcing the wall out of the lining does not interrupt the search for the necessary equipment.
Preparing the wall surface
Before covering the walls with clapboard and proceeding directly to the installation of the facing strip, the walls must first be prepared and ensure their hydro-, steam- and thermal insulation.
The surface of the walls is cleaned of dirt and dust. In a closed and poorly ventilated area where the work will be carried out installation work, it is best to use a vacuum cleaner for these purposes. Dust can also be removed from small surfaces with a household vacuum cleaner if an industrial vacuum cleaner is not available.
Brick and concrete walls are treated with water-repellent and antiseptic impregnation to avoid the appearance of fungal colonies under the facing surface and mold. Walls built from wood are additionally treated with antipyrite and antibacterial compounds. The former increase the fire resistance of the walls (the wood does not ignite, but smolders), and the latter create conditions in the internal fibers of the wood that prevent the proliferation of pests, their larvae, as well as bacteria that destroy the structure of the tree.
Waterproofing (water barrier) is installed on unfinished walls of houses built of wood, for example, from a log house. Brick or concrete walls do not require additional waterproofing and are the first protective layer a vapor barrier is used for them, especially for walls whose outer part faces the street. The vapor barrier layer (it can be polyethylene, roofing felt or foil) is attached to planks pre-mounted on the wall with a thickness of at least 15 mm and a width of 30 mm. When installing planks under the vapor barrier, use a level and level the landing plane, then the lining of the walls with clapboard will not be interrupted for its leveling. The installation orientation of the planks depends on the position in which - horizontal or vertical - the lining will be installed.
The orientation of the vapor barrier installation strips is important, since the grating mesh will be installed on them, onto which the clapboard strips will be directly attached. For example, if the lining goes in a vertical direction, then the sheathing bars are attached in a horizontal position, and the vapor barrier strips in a vertical position and vice versa.
The vapor barrier is secured by using building or furniture stapler, at the same time it does not stretch too much, so as not to crack during temperature changes, but without sagging areas in which condensation can accumulate.
Mounting methods
The lining is not critical in installation to the building material from which the walls are made. It can be easily attached to brick, concrete, slag and foam block walls, as well as to wooden surfaces. The only difference is in the set of tools and fasteners. In practice, 5 methods are used reliable installation internal covering from facing strips on walls, which can be carried out even by non-professionals with minimal carpentry skills.
A day before the start of work, the lining is brought into the room where installation will be carried out. This is done so that the wood has time to adapt to the climate in the room and acquires the ambient temperature throughout its entire thickness.
At horizontal installation of the facing strip, the lower lining is laid first, with the tongue down, towards the floor. When laying cladding strips vertically, the leftmost one is first secured with a tongue and groove to the wall.
Method 1. Fastening is carried out using a special fastener called a “kleimer”. In its sole, which is adjacent to the block, there are 3 holes made - two oblong at the edges and one round in the center.
The next plank to be installed is inserted with a tongue and groove into the groove of the previous mounted lining and the gaps are adjusted.
You should not press the planks tightly together, since if moisture gets into the joint, the wood can swell and press the entire cladding structure away from the wall.
The clamps are put on the internal grooves of the installed strip and two side screws are screwed in (the use of nails is allowed), then the gaps in the places where the clamps are installed are adjusted with a hammer and the central screw is screwed in, thereby fixing the strip in its place.
Walls sheathed using clamps are characterized by perfect seams and a long service life.
Method 2. Before sheathing, a hole is drilled in the plank with a diameter equal to half the diameter of the wood screws used. Using a screwdriver, the self-tapping screw is driven into the board to such a depth that its head enters the wood a couple of millimeters. The hole made by the cap is sealed with a pin made of the same type of wood from which the lining is made. The pin is ground to the level of the front part of the board, but so that it does not protrude or sink into the body of the lining. This method is most often used when covering walls in saunas and baths.
Method 3. Fixation occurs by driving a nail into the lower cut of the groove at an angle of 45 degrees. The nail head is adjusted to the depth of insertion into the body of the plank, at which it will not interfere with the free entry of the tongue of the next plank into the tongue groove, using a metal rod with a diameter equal to the size of the nail head.
Method 4. It is used on linings of the “Simple”, “Peasant”, “Kolkhoznitsa” types and those that have “ridge” locks. In the lower plane of the ridge groove, a hole is drilled 2 times smaller than the diameter of the wood screw that will be used for fastening. The next operation is to chamfer the hole for the screw head. Using a screwdriver, the self-tapping screw is screwed in to such a depth that its head fits completely into the chamfer and does not interfere with the installation of the next part.
Method 5. Fastening is carried out with brackets driven at an angle of 45 degrees into the lower cut of the groove. The operation is carried out through construction stapler, it is best to use an electric one, since a mechanical one can, when pressed, change the angle of entry of the bracket into the tree.
You can follow step by step how to properly cover walls with clapboard by watching the video:
Completion of work
The final touch of the work will be the installation of skirting boards, slopes and corners to hide the gaps at the joints and between the floor and the lining, just as trimming would not have been done, but they will always be there. Depending on the relief of the front part of the lining, the entire facing array is sanded either using a grinder (if the front part of the plank is smooth) or manually using sandpaper 150 grit units.
The next steps will be removing dust and applying a primer. The primer must dry completely (the packaging indicates the time frame for complete drying of the composition), after which sanding occurs again.
The last step to obtaining a finished lining from the lining will be its two-layer varnish coating.
By performing all the steps in a clear sequence, you can achieve a perfectly smooth coating that will last for many years.
