If you are planning to replace or insert new windows, you need to look into the installation process. It all depends on how you will install the windows: either with your own hands, or by attracting a third-party company. To make the dismantling and installation of the structure, it takes about 4 hours if you do not have experience in this matter. For a company employee who does this often, such work will take no time. more than an hour. But installing tilt-and-turn windows on your own requires building skills.
Complete set of window system
Before proceeding with the installation, it is necessary to understand the nuances and details. First you need to know all the names of parts and materials. The main bearing part is the frame. In the version of plastic windows, its production is carried out from plastic profile, which can be single-chamber, two-chamber, etc. A special insert is placed in the center of the structure to ensure rigidity. AT plastic systems this insert is made of plastic, metal is used in metal-plastic ones.
The profile system is assembled from 2 or more chambers
In addition, the profile is divided into classes: premium, standard and economy. All profiles manufactured at the factory are subject to certain standards. If you want to make a choice in favor of good tilt-and-turn windows, take the standard class. By color, white windows are most common, but other colors can be used: wood effect, brown. Products from a color profile will be more expensive than white.
Components of a plastic window
Main element window block - frame The design of the plastic window includes the following details:
- frame - the main structural part;
- if you have big window, most often it is separated by a vertical partition, there may be several - it all depends on the choice of design;
- the part that is motionless is called deaf, and the one that opens is called the sash;
- double-glazed windows can be different properties, for example, tinted, energy-saving, reinforced, using inert gas. In addition, they are single-layer, two-layer, three-layer or multi-layer - the choice is great;
- in order for the glasses to hold securely, they are pressed with a glazing bead, which is a thin plastic bar. For tightness, a rubber seal is used, most often black;
- fittings are always used - this is a special set of tilt-and-turn mechanisms that help open and close the doors and provide various functionality;
- in addition, seals are needed to ensure the tightness of the entire structure;
- on the inside of the frame, ventilated holes are made for drainage, which are covered with caps. The moisture generated by the drop temperature regime on the street and inside the room, gets out through them;
- another part of the design is the ebb - it is mounted outside, and the window sill is installed from the inside;
- parts located on the side of the frame are finished with slopes.
Is it possible to install the window yourself
There is an opinion that installing windows in a house or apartment is a rather complicated procedure. It must be said that this is not so. What do you need to know when installing? These jobs do not require special professional tools and equipment, great experience. The procedure includes two main points:
- dismantling of the old window block;
- installing a new window.
Dismantling the old window takes an average of 1.5 hours If we talk about the time required to complete the work, then the first stage will take about an hour and a half. Do-it-yourself window installation will take less than three hours. I must say that if, nevertheless, you decide to opt for the services of specialists, then you should require certain guarantees from them.
If you have installed tilt and turn windows yourself, this will void your warranty. In this case, it is necessary to purchase designs directly from the manufacturer, who has been working on the market for a long time and has good reviews from customers. If you decide to buy single-chamber or double-chamber windows in winter period you can always count on a significant discount.
When a window is purchased from a company that carries out and installation work, then the customer has a guarantee for fittings of about 5 years. With self-installation, you can obtain a guarantee directly from the manufacturer, that is, at the place of purchase.
In order to install windows in brick house, cinder block, gas block or apartment, you first need to order a swing-out or blind design from the manufacturer, and this requires accurate measurements.
Step-by-step instructions for correct measurement
When you place an order, you will be required to specify the following dimensions: the width and height of the structure, the width and length of the slope and window sill.
Before ordering a window, it is necessary to correctly measure the design Before you start measuring, be sure to important point- what kind of opening do you have: with or without a quarter. Look carefully at the window opening: if the outer part is narrower, then you have a quarter opening in front of you. The measurement is carried out as follows: it is necessary to measure the narrowest part, it will be necessary to measure in several places, find smallest value, add 3 cm to it. The height is indicated as it is. If your opening is even, then the measurements are done like this: after measuring the width, 3 cm is subtracted; having measured the height, minus 5 cm. Read the detailed article about.
Before measurements, you need to determine the type of window: with or without a quarter To determine the dimensions of the window sill, you need to add about 10 cm to the width of the opening inside the window. For low tide, the same is done, only along the outer part of the window. Everyone chooses the width for the window sill for themselves: it is better if it protrudes a little beyond the battery.
In addition, when placing an order, you need to decide which constituent parts your design will be completed: what options for two-, three- or single-leaf windows do you need, how they will open, on which side the capercaillie is located. Do not forget to decide on the type of fittings (handles, locks, ventilation mechanisms).
If you order several designs at the same time, then the width of all openings may be different, but the height must be the same, you need to choose the most small size. Please note that window openings can be located at different distances from the floor.. In apartments, from the floor to the window is about 80 cm, while on the balcony the windows can be from the floor. Accommodation in a private house can generally be any at the discretion of the owners.
Features of measurements for glazing balconies
To determine the width of the glass structure, it is necessary to measure in length that part of the balcony on which the balcony window will be installed, minus 7 cm from each side. This distance is required for mounting corner profile, to which the structures of the side elements of the balcony are attached. The height is calculated as the distance from the support to the roof on the balcony or loggia, while subtracting a tolerance of 3 cm for the gap.
How to take measurements of windows in a country house
To correctly measure the dimensions of the structure in a private house, knock out part of the slopes on both sides. Very often it turns out that the window opening is much larger than the window that is installed in it. This means that during the dismantling of the structure, a part of the materials that filled the space will be simultaneously removed.
Preparing to install a window structure
After you take out the old window, you will need to inspect the resulting opening, remove all parts that can fall off or collapse, if there are protruding elements, they should be knocked down. Then clean the opening from construction debris and dust. If there are large recesses, it is better to cover them with cement. You can also treat everything with soil.
Base needs to be cleaned prior to installation. Having finished working with the opening, you need to prepare a PVC window, the installation of which is to be. To do this, it is necessary to remove the window sashes, if it is deaf - double-glazed windows. If your frame has small dimensions, then you can install it without removing the double-glazed windows and sashes. The outer part of the frame should be freed from the film that protects it.
Installation Technology Guide
The finished plastic window is brought into the opening, placed on the support blocks and aligned horizontally. After that, using a level, the window is set vertically and fixed in this position with spacer blocks.
Installation of both blind windows and opening sashes is the same. There are two options for installing windows: with and without a structure. When applying the first option, holes are drilled through the frame through which they are driven into the wall anchor bolts. This method is more complex and more reliable.
When installing a window by unpacking, holes are drilled in the frame and wall, where anchors are then driven in 
Places for anchoring anchors and support blocks If the installation is done without opening the frame, the window is fixed using special ones that are attached to the profile and then to the wall. This option is faster. However, it must be borne in mind that with significant wind loads, the frame structure may warp or it may sag. If you decide to mount on a plate, you should choose thick, wide options. Please note that if the region in which you live is characterized by a strong wind load or windows are to be installed at a height, then it is worth using the option of unbaking the frame.
Mounting on anchor plates 
There are nuances for placing a window in an opening. If the walls are made of foam blocks, bricks, cinder blocks, gas silicate or concrete, then the frame is placed in a depth of 2/3 of the internal thickness of the opening. If the walls are insulated with foam, then the fastening must be done to the insulation layer. When insulating and facing with bricks, a window is installed in the insulation zone.
It is very important to choose the correct installation depth The installation sequence must be followed:
- inserting the frame, expose it to the level, using support and spacer blocks;
- further attached to the wall;
- after installing the structure, it is necessary to assemble the window;
- then you need to check normal work shutters and all mechanisms, for this, open and close the window;
- after everything is checked, the sashes must be tightly closed and the gap around the structure must be sealed. For this, apply.
However, it must be remembered that in direct contact with the sun's rays and the external environment, the material loses its properties and collapses. To protect it, you need to create it, it can be a special film that needs to be glued on the outside and inside of the window. After the foam has dried, it is necessary to finish the slopes on both sides (external, internal) of the structure. You can open the window a day after blowing the gap with foam.
To be fulfilled correct installation both on windows and follow the simple rules:
- we mount the ebb from the outside into a special slot in the frame or fasten it to it with self-tapping screws;
- the window sill is installed as follows: it is necessary to cut it from the edges so that it fits in the width of the window opening and rests against the end of the support profile;
- the level is leveled with special pads, after which the space under the window sill is blown with foam or filled with mortar.
According to the principle of the description above, windows are installed on a balcony or on a loggia, in brick or concrete walls. However, keep in mind that the entire weight window construction will carry the parapet, so you need to strengthen it.
Mistakes you can make when installing windows
There are a number of points that you should pay attention to when installing the structure so that it has a long service life:
- it is impossible to install the window with glazing beads outward, as this reduces the burglary resistance of the structure, since the glazing bead can be easily pulled out and the double-glazed window removed;
- you need to carefully consider the alignment of structures to the level during the installation of the window, otherwise opening and closing the sashes will be difficult;
- be sure to protect the mounting foam from direct contact sun rays in order to avoid its destruction;
- the choice of fixing the frame structure only with mounting foam will be wrong: it is imperative to mount it to the wall, otherwise it may simply fall out.
By following all the installation rules, you can successfully mount the window structure yourself, and if you turn to professionals for services, you can control their work at any stage.
Good afternoon everyone!
Knowledge is power, you can't argue with that.
A friend recently contacted me with the question of whether it is possible to install windows myself.
He decided to build his own country house, to take, so to speak, oneself after retirement, and prepares information base regarding each stage.
And I, as a window specialist, just came in handy. Threw for him short plan action, and decided to consider in detail all the issues in my blog.
Look for all the principles and nuances of installing window structures further in the text.
Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows is not as complicated as it seems at first glance.
However, in order to properly install a plastic window, you need to know some things that you cannot do without.
We bring to your attention instructions for self-installation of plastic windows.
Do-it-yourself technology and procedure for installing plastic windows
The installation sequence of a plastic window consists of the following steps:
- Dismantling of old windows (if replacement is being made).
- Preparation of a new plastic window.
- Installation and alignment of the stand profile for the future window.
- Fastening fasteners to the window frame.
- Creation of recesses in the wall in the places where the fasteners are attached.
- Insertion and exposure of a plastic window on a horizontal and vertical level.
- Fixing the window in the opening with the help of fasteners in the places of holes for them.
- Foaming (filling with mounting foam) of the gaps between the plastic window and the window opening.
- Installation and alignment of the window sill.
- Slope installation.
- Window hardware adjustment.
- Installation of low tide from the outside of the window.
The last item can be performed at the end of all work if you are building a private house, cottage.
If you live in an apartment, then the installation of the ebb must be done after inserting windows without double-glazed windows.
To do this, before installing the window, the glazing beads are removed (a screwdriver is slipped between the glazing bead and rubber gasket, and knocks the glazing bead out of the groove with light blows), and then the double-glazed windows are removed.
Thus, through the window it is easy to align and install the ebb.
Before installing the window, a stand profile is mounted.
It's as easy as shelling pears: lay the profile in the right place, align it horizontally and foam it.
But before foaming, it is better to put a window on the profile and see if it fits normally into the remaining space.
If there is too much at the top free space, then you should put something under the profile.
It is better to insert the stand profile directly into the lower groove of the window.
If the profile is not provided in the package, then under the window you need to put blocks to the height of the window sill in order to fix the window sill under the lower groove of the window. When the installation of the stand profile is completed, we proceed to install the window.
First you need to attach fasteners to the window, on which it will hold. It is best to use flat anchor plates. They should be located perpendicular to the plane of the window at a distance of 10-20 cm from the corners of the frame on each side.
Fastening to the window is carried out with a metal screw about 10 cm long (1 self-tapping screw is screwed into the dowel at the end of the anchor plate into the frame with outer side, the second at the other end of the plate into the wall and also into the dowel).
If you insert a plastic window without double-glazed windows (with empty frames), then the fixing screws are screwed from the inside of the frame into the wall with dowels, but not completely, so as not to damage the frame structure.
For the dowel, you first need to drill a hole. When the anchors are fixed in the window, insert it into the window opening and align it.
After that, in the future places where the anchor fasteners are attached to the wall, we punch recesses under the entire fastener plate, so that later we cover the entire fastening with mortar and level the wall for installing slopes.
After fixing the plastic window in the opening, check its vertical and horizontal again. Therefore, you should not immediately tighten the screws into the opening completely.
Alignment work is best done by two people, so that one person holds the window, and the second puts the bars for leveling. We turn to filling the space between the window opening and the plastic window with mounting foam.
The main thing is that the foaming is one hundred percent. If the space between the window and the opening is more than 2 cm, then you can foam in 2 stages with an interval of 2 hours.
Note!
Important! Always wet the surface with water before foaming (using a sprayer, for example). This is the only way the foam will grip the structure of the walls as much as possible.
If you install the window at temperatures below 5 degrees, then use all-weather or winter mounting foam. If the temperature is above 5 degrees, any foam will do.
The foam should dry for at least half a day. After that, it must be closed from the harmful effects of the sun's rays. This is done either with a conventional mortar, or with tile adhesive, or with a protective impervious film.
Installation of the window sill requires preliminary trimming extra length because it comes with a margin in size.
For these purposes, a jigsaw or grinder is perfect. Then you should move the window sill to the stand profile (if any) and align.
If, after leveling, there is a large gap between the window sill and the opening, then it is better to seal it with a solution, after removing the window sill.
If everything is fine, then a simple foaming is enough. Don't forget to put caps on the window sill. It is advisable to cut the window sill so that it enters the opening clearly along with the plugs. The plugs are best glued to the window sill with super glue.
After leveling the window sill, it must be checked for subsidence by pressing with your hand in several places.
Useful advice!
If everything is fine, then you can start foaming, after pressing down the window sill with heavy objects (for example, several bottles of water) in order to avoid bulging upward from polyurethane foam. The next day, excess foam under the windowsill can be removed with a regular knife.
By the way, you can install a window sill with a very small slope from the window (literally 2-3 degrees), so that possible condensate does not seep between the window and the window sill.
Do-it-yourself installation of slopes on plastic windows
Before installing the slopes, you need to remove excess foam around the perimeter of the frame with a knife (this should be done very carefully so as not to damage the window material). To install slopes, PVC panels are taken and cut to the desired length (two - to the height of the opening, the third - to the width of the opening).
After vertical alignment, fastening is carried out on mounting foam.
And so that the foam does not push the panels away from the wall, they need to be glued to the walls with masking tape (preferably in three places). After the foam has set, you need to make the final framing at the ends of the panels. There is a profile for this. F shape(due to this design, it is inserted between the wall and the plank).
Do-it-yourself installation of ebbs on plastic windows
The ebb is mounted very simply: first it is inserted into the groove under the window, and then it is leveled, pressed, fastened with screws to the stand profile and foamed.
After installing plastic windows, fittings are adjusted, a mosquito net is placed. Window adjustment is a separate topic that will be discussed in future articles.
source: gold-cottage.ru
Installing a PVC plastic window with your own hands is not particularly difficult.
You do not need to have specific skills or special professional equipment for these actions.
Naturally, high-quality plastic double-glazed windows cost quite a tangible amount of money, but the cost of them can be reduced if you install plastic windows yourself.
In this case, the savings, approximately, will be from 40 to 70 USD. (dollars) and above, on each self-installed double-glazed window.
Just in this article of our DIY construction and repair blog, we will consider in detail the issue of self-installation of plastic windows.
At the end of the article, you will also find a thematic video installation of plastic windows with your own hands in accordance with GOST.
Installing a plastic window - steps:
- Installation methods - there are two methods for installing a window with and without unpacking.
- Fasteners - types of fasteners, diagram, immersion depth of fasteners.
- Insulating materials - what is PSUL and diffuse tape, what to place where - diagram.
- Preparing the opening - how to properly prepare the opening.
- Ebb installation - diagram, recommendations for the use of mounting foam.
- Assembly of the window - we collect the window after unpacking.
- Installation of a window sill - recommendations, practical advice.
- Slope installation - installation plastic slopes do it yourself step by step diagram.
Today there are two methods for installing metal-plastic windows:
- with unpacking the window, and without such an action.
The method of installation with unpacking is carried out with a preliminary process of disassembling the double-glazed window:
- remove staples
- glass is removed from the frame and set aside in a certain place until it is installed.
After that, the frame is attached to the wall surface with dowels (through), and then the glazing beads and double-glazed windows are installed back. Note that this method of installing plastic windows has a number of nuances on which we will focus your attention.
Because this particular one is more laborious but more safe method(for plastic double-glazed windows) we chose the installation for writing an article and of course it is also present in the video installation of plastic windows with our own hands.
Useful advice!
When removing a double-glazed window, you must be very careful, as careless manipulation of the glazing beads can lead to the formation of chips and scratches on them.
Double-glazed windows can accidentally break during their removal and transfer, but if everything is done carefully, then nothing terrible will happen.
If exercise this process without unpacking, the removal of glass and glazing beads is not required, since the base is attached to the wall using fasteners previously installed on the outer area.
But this type of fastening is not suitable for bulk windows that have a large mass.
From this we conclude that the use of the first technology for installing a window with your own hands is more simple and expedient, but enough theory, let's get down to practice.
The window usually consists of several parts. These parts can be deaf or be an opening sash.
Let's now look at how to remove a double-glazed window from the blind part of the window and how to properly dismantle the opening sash.
Removing glass.
After the window has been delivered to you, before installing it, it is necessary to remove the double-glazed windows from the deaf (non-opening) parts of the window.
Usually, when new glass is delivered, the glazing beads (the glazing bead is a plastic guide that directly holds the double-glazed window) are not fully clogged and it is possible to easily dismantle them.
If all the same, at the manufacturer, the glazing beads are drowned to the end, it is necessary in the seam between the glazing bead and window frame insert a small spatula and with careful tapping of a mallet (wooden hammer) directed from the center of the window to its periphery, try to dismantle the glazing beads (there are 4 of them).
After the glazing beads give in and begin to come out of the grooves, the plastic clamps begin to fall out, they must be assembled, since we will need them at the time of mounting the glazing beads back.
We think it’s not worth reminding that everything must be done very carefully so as not to break the expensive double-glazed window.
The best thing this operation to produce together, since holding a double-glazed window, which weighs an average of 30 kg, and doing something in parallel is not an easy task.
And one more thing, it is necessary to store the removed double-glazed windows on a clean hard surface, and also better double glazing(double-glazed windows) lean against the wall, if there are several of them, then lay a layer of soft clean rag between them.
In order to remove the opening sashes of a plastic window, it is necessary to slightly open it in order to gain access to the hinges.
The dismantling of the opening sash must begin with the analysis of the upper hinge.
To do this, you need to remove the spindle (a rotating shaft inside the loop), first you need to press on it from above (most likely with a screwdriver), after which part of this shaft will appear from below.
Having hooked the lower part of the spindle with pliers, we take it out, respectively, down.
After upper loop disassembled, it is necessary to slightly deviate the window from the horizontal axis, the lower hinge will allow you to do this, then lift the sash approximately 5 cm.
After that, the sash will be freed from the second bottom loop. To perform this dismantling, it would be good to call a partner who will insure you, since the masses of both sashes and double-glazed windows, as we have already noted, are on average 30 kg.
Fasteners.
Fasteners, in our case these are anchor bolts, are distributed around the entire perimeter starting from the edges, with the maximum distance between the bolts being 700 mm, and the minimum being 150 (see diagram below).
Also, the fasteners should be located near the imposts (an impost is a horizontal or vertical bar that divides the window into parts) both from above and below to make the construction of the plastic window rigid.
Mounting types.
According to GOST, there are three types of fastening:
- Fastening with a screw on concrete.
- Dowel nails with anchor plates.
- Fastening with anchor bolt.
When installing plastic pvc windows with our own hands, according to GOST, we choose the method of fastening with the help of anchor bolts. This is one of the most complex and at the same time the most durable types of fasteners, where you can not think about the weight of the window.
Fastening with anchor bolt.
- concrete - 40 mm
- solid brick - 40 mm
- slatted brick - 60 mm
- porous blocks natural stone- 50 mm
Installing a plastic window according to GOST involves the use of special insulating materials, this is dictated by the fact that indoor humidity is higher than outside, so some of the moisture penetrates into the seam even with a vapor barrier tape installed.
If the outer contour of the joint is made as dense as the inner one, then moisture will gradually accumulate in the joint, which will lead to the loss of its heat-shielding qualities, therefore, when arranging assembly joints, it is always necessary to follow the principle inside is denser than outside.
For these purposes, PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tape) is used. If the distance between the bottom profile and bearing wall less than 40 mm, apply PSUL, if this distance is more than 40 mm, then a diffusion tape with similar properties.
PSUL, as well as diffusion tape, is glued to the window frame, they are designed to protect the mounting foam from exposure external environment, as well as in order for moisture to come out of the assembly seam during the operation of plastic windows.
From all of the above, we conclude that, ideally, it is necessary to use a diffusion tape at the bottom of the window, and PSUL on top and on the sides of the window profile.
You can see an example with a diffusion tape in the video of installing a plastic window with your own hands, presented at the end of the post, and the use of PSUL is schematically shown in the diagram below.
Opening preparation.
The opening must be cleared of debris and dust. If necessary, the edges of the opening must be leveled and strengthened.
After all these procedures, it is necessary to moisten the surface of the opening with water to improve adhesion (Adhesion - adhesion of surfaces of dissimilar solid and / or liquid bodies).
The frame of the window unit is installed in the opening, while the frame should not be placed on the surface of the opening, but must be installed on bearing supports, for this you can use plastic wedges.
These wedges are installed under the corner and transom joints of the frame and there must be at least three of them.
For leveling, apply a level to the location of the glazing bead, since the folded part in practice is not always even, due to the fact that at the time of drilling it could be deformed.
After that, it is necessary to take a drill with the attached level and drill holes in the window frame and further in the wall.
After that, it is necessary to insert anchor bolts into the drilled holes, but not completely, in order to be able to align the frame.
After all the anchor fasteners have been installed in the holes, we re-check whether the frame is installed evenly and if everything is normal we sink the anchor bolts and screw in the anchor, at this moment wedging occurs, and the frame is already “tightly” fixed in window opening.
Ebb installation.
The next step in installing PVC windows with your own hands is the installation of a low tide. The ebb can be ordered from the manufacturer of the window, or you can use the old one, unless of course it is in good condition.
The ebb is attached to the stand profile with several self-tapping screws (see diagram).
The time has come when it is necessary to use mounting foam.
During the production process, the temperature of the cylinder with polyurethane foam should not be lower than 20 degrees C.
Therefore, in the cold season, when the temperature is below zero, it is necessary to wear special coats, both on the barrel of the applicator pistol and on the cylinder itself.
Note!
Mounting foam is used with gaps from 10 to 60 mm, but if the width is more than 60 mm, it is recommended to reduce the window opening due to less expensive building material- such as brick or foam.
Window assembly.
After we mounted the window frame and ebb everything outside work do-it-yourself PVC window installation is finished and you can return the sash and double-glazed window back.
First install the glass.
To do this, we insert a double-glazed window into the installed frame, it would be nice if your partner held the double-glazed window in this position, and at that moment you inserted the glazing beads on the guides and with gentle blows of the mallet seated them in their places (do not forget about the plastic clips).
Then you need to install the window sash, for this you need to lift the sash and align the hinges, then insert the spindle from below and press them all the way (here you can also use a mallet and gentle blows).
When installing a window sill, it must first be cut.
Then tightly attach to the stand profile, after that we align the window sill with a level and put various materials.
The window sill may have a slight slope from the window to drain condensate, but in no case should it sag.
After 12 hours when the foam has hardened, the load can be removed and the excess foam must be cut off.
Useful advice!
The load was designed to prevent the foam from deforming the window sill during the drying process.
It is highly undesirable that there is a gap between the window sill and the frame, if, nevertheless, it remains, it must be sealed with silicone. We must try to avoid the formation of such a gap.
The first thing to do when installing slopes is to attach a wooden plank to the perimeter of the window (the inner perimeter of the window opening, see photo).
Fasten with screws approximately 95 mm long.
The bar should not protrude from the window opening, but should, as they say, be flush.
To make the slopes even, it is necessary to align the planks with a level.
After that, we fix the U-shaped start profile on the outer frame of the window. Fastening is carried out on self-tapping bugs, which are screwed directly into the window frame.
Slopes will be inserted into this profile, so the outer edges must be connected as accurately as possible.
The next step is to install the F-profile, it is fastened with a construction stapler.
The groove of such a profile is located opposite the groove of the U-shaped profile; slopes will be placed in these grooves. At the part that is located above the window, the F-shaped groove is carefully cut off either with a knife or scissors for iron, because this groove overlaps the top of the window.
After the U-shaped and F-shaped profiles are installed around the entire perimeter, slopes can be inserted. If you are unable to fit the seams evenly, then you can smear them with white silicone.
source: remont-s-umom.blogspot.ru
Today I will tell you about how to install 8 plastic windows and an entrance door in one day with my own hands.
This job does not require special skills or expensive equipment.
But, of course, there are many nuances that you should definitely pay attention to. And of course there are a few secrets on how to save money when ordering.
I used windows that are optimal in terms of thermal performance
- with four-chamber window profile
- and double glazing
- as well as a reinforced front door.
By the way, it was the door that accounted for almost half of the cost of the order.
BUT general expenses amounted to 40 thousand rubles for the set and another 4.5 thousand rubles for delivery. How to buy windows at the same price - at the end of the article.
1. Let's get started!
2. We have a freshly built aerated concrete house in which 8 windows and one front door need to be installed.
First of all, we take all dimensions from the openings.
As you remember, I made overhead quarters around the perimeter of the openings on three sides (a quarter is not needed from below - there will be a window sill there).
For the quarters I used the standard aerated concrete blocks 5 cm thick, which were installed like all masonry on mounting foam.
The depth of windows during installation should be at least 1/3 of the wall thickness.
It is also worth noting that you should not try to make openings under typical dimensions windows - the technology of their production is automated and there is no difference in cost between standard size or window to order.
The final dimensions of the window are considered taking into account the following factors. On the side and top from the frame to the wall there should be a gap of 1 to 2 centimeters on each side, which will be filled with mounting foam.
From the bottom, on all windows from the factory, there is a stand profile 3 centimeters high, which is needed for convenient installation of the window sill.
Plus, under the delivery profile, there should also be a gap of about 1 centimeter for mounting foam. In total, roughly speaking from internal dimensions the opening must be subtracted 4 centimeters horizontally and 6 centimeters vertically.
You should not get carried away and push the frame into the opening without a gap, because. it will be extremely inconvenient to fill in mounting foam into a gap of less than 5 mm.
3. It is important to know that opening sections greatly increase the cost of the construction of any window. Therefore, if the goal is to save money, you need to make the most of blind non-opening windows.
In the case of a suburban one-story house there is no problem to go outside to wash the windows, and for ventilation you can make an opening transom (due to the design features, it is several times cheaper than the tilt-and-turn mechanism, but at the same time its width should be much greater than its height, more precisely, its height cannot exceed 50 centimeters).
The advantage of the blind section also lies in the fact that you do not lose effective area glazing. In my case, there are 5 blind windows 60x60 cm in size, two blind panoramic windows 1.4x1.7 meters, one tilt-and-turn window 0.6x1.3 meters and an entrance door with partial glazing 0.9x2.3 meters.
The above price includes only windows and door (including hinges, handles and locks). Separately, I needed to buy anchor plates, dowels, self-tapping screws, sealing tape PSUL, polyurethane foam, window sills and ebbs for a total of 3.5 thousand rubles.
4. We will need: a screwdriver with a drill for concrete, mounting foam with a gun, PSUL tape, mounting plates, dowels for aerated concrete and self-tapping screws.
Note!
Once again, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that measuring tool you can't save.
5. There are two ways to fix the window frame: through fixing with unpacking of double-glazed windows and using anchor plates.
The first method requires more time and skills.
In particular, you will need to carefully pull the double-glazed window out of the frame, and then install it in place.
The glazing beads holding it are usually fixed very tightly and in order not to scratch the edges, a special spatula and patience will be required.
Plus, if we are talking about installation in two hands, then with large windows the problem will be that the removed double-glazed window cannot be tilted, unlike the frame in which it is installed.
In addition, through fastening requires precise fixation during drilling and an assistant will definitely be required. Much easier installation carried out on mounting plates.
Useful advice!
Each such plate costs 10 rubles. They need to be installed at the rate of 1 plate for every 50 centimeters.
The plate is installed by turning in the groove of the frame and fixed with a self-tapping screw with a drill (to drill metal carcass inside the frame).
6. After that, PSUL tape is glued on the outside of the frame on all sides except for the base - a pre-compressed sealing tape.
It is used when installing a window in an opening with quarters.
The purpose of the tape is to protect the mounting foam from ultraviolet radiation and, consequently, destruction. In the cold season, it is easier to install windows, because. the tape expands very slowly in the cold.
7. A six-meter roll of PSUL tape costs 140 rubles. When fixing the tape to outside frames, it is preferable to retreat 1-1.5 cm from the edge, especially if you have deep quarters.
This should be done so that when pouring the mounting foam between the frame and the wall, it does not get on the PSUL tape.
8. Now let's move on to the window opening. His geometric dimensions ideal, and the base is ideally aligned with the horizon.
This happens by itself during the construction of aerated concrete if you follow the technology and level each next row of masonry to zero. I started the installation with small blind windows and they differ from the rest in that they will not have window sills. Therefore, we will not use a stand profile.
9. We apply the window and mark the place for the mounting holes. We drill and install special screw dowels for aerated concrete.
It is worth paying special attention that you should not try to score them with one blow, especially if they are located close to the edge of the block - there is a risk of breaking off a piece of the block. After that, we bait the screws through the mounting plates.
10. Our next task is to install the window strictly vertically.
In the case of small windows, this will not be difficult, because. there will be no diagonal skew of the window and it is enough to measure at any point of the frame. After that, we tighten the screws on the mounting plates and take out the piece of laminate at the base.
Note!
Any window must be fixed so firmly that it can be kept in the opening solely on the mounting plates.
Mounting foam is used primarily for filling voids and thermal insulation, and not for mechanical fixation frames in the opening.
11. You will have to tinker with large windows. The mass of each is more than 80 kilograms and it will not be easy to lift it into the opening alone.
I built a ladder from blocks and gradually raised the window 5 centimeters up.
3 on each side except the bottom.
Here you need to carefully monitor the verticality of the frame and apply a level in all corners.
On the big windows at the bottom there was a support profile in which the window sill will be installed.
Directly under the support profile, I also placed a laminate plate, which was removed immediately after fixing the anchor plates to the wall.
12. The tilt-and-turn window is 2 times smaller, but for it I decided to use 8 anchor plates, because. an open sash will add load to the frame.
On average, it takes about 30 minutes to install one window. And a very serious mistake that most people make - the protective film from the frame must be removed immediately after installation.
Useful advice!
Even if you put the windows at the beginning of the repair, the film must be removed immediately.
If this is not done, then it will be more difficult to tear it off, in addition, the plastic will burn out unevenly (relevant for the outside of the frame).
13. Go to front door. This is a reinforced door on 3 hinges with a full frame around the perimeter. Opening inward is much more convenient than outward opening.
But most people have a stereotype that the door should be opened outwards. When installing door frame the most important thing is to ensure a uniform fit around the perimeter.
To fix the door, I used 10 anchor plates. Special attention it is worth paying attention to the verticality of the side walls of the door frame in two planes.
For reliability, the fixation of each anchor plate can be supplemented with a second self-tapping screw. As with windows, the door must be fully functional when held only by anchor plates.
It should not warp when opened and should fit snugly around the perimeter when closed.
14. Now we take a gun with polyurethane foam. The presence of a pistol is mandatory. it allows you to adjust the amount of foam output.
Useful advice!
With foam, there are nuances that you definitely need to know.
Firstly, the foam is afraid of ultraviolet radiation and must be covered from sunlight. On the outside of the window, there is a PSUL tape for this, on the inside, it is necessary to plaster the slopes or, as an option, paint over it with paint. As for the application of foam, it absolutely cannot be cut.
The shell that formed on it protects the internal open cellular structure from moisture absorption and subsequent destruction. Therefore, the seam between the frame and the wall should be filled exactly in the volume so that the excess does not protrude.
It is important not to overdo it with the depth of the gun nozzle, because. do not forget that on the outside we have a PSUL tape and it should not come into contact with fresh foam.
Approximately 5-10 minutes after filling the seams with foam, it is worth visually checking its condition and, if necessary, gently tamping (until it has frozen, this is easy to do). If work is carried out at temperatures below +5 degrees, it is necessary to use a special winter foam.
Most likely not in all corners the frame is strictly vertical. This can be corrected by adjusting the hinges and lock.
16. Done! Windows and doors must be left for a day until the foam completely hardens. And we are moving on to the final stage.
17. We take plastic window sills 20 centimeters deep.
In total, I need 3 window sills: two 140 cm each and one 70 cm long. A finished window sill 150 cm long cost me only 200 rubles. We cut off the excess with a jigsaw and install it under the frame in the stand profile.
It should be borne in mind that the depth of the window sills into the frame is 2 centimeters, this is important when choosing the depth.
Note!
Before installation, do not forget to remove the protective film around the perimeter.
We install the window sill either strictly horizontally, or with a slight (1 degree) slope from the window.
18. We close the edges with special plates, which should be glued to superglue.
As a support when setting the level, you can use a trim from the window sill itself or a wooden block. After that, we load the window sill from above so that it does not lift it with mounting foam.
And fill the bottom of the entire plane of the base with foam. Just as with window frames, foam expansion should be controlled and should not be cut with a knife. Just tamp it down until it hardens.
19. final chord- installation of ebbs. We cut it to length, fix it to the window frame with the help of self-tapping screws (having previously missed the joint silicone sealant), fill the base with mounting foam and load it.
20. Done!
Do not forget to remove the protective film from the frames, window sills and ebbs. There is nothing complicated in installing windows and you can handle this amount of work alone.
Having done this work with my own hands, I saved more than 15 thousand rubles on the installation.
In addition to the cost of a plastic window, intermediary companies also include installation and delivery services in the final amount. In order not to spend thousands of rubles and save money, you can install a plastic window yourself. In this step-by-step master class, we will teach you how to properly dismantle an old window and prepare a new one for installation, taking into account the installation technology in accordance with GOST.
Step #1: Dismantling the old window
In our case, we dismantle the plastic window. The old wooden window is removed from the opening in the same way, so there should be no problems at this stage. For dismantling, we need the following set of tools: a hacksaw, a crowbar or a crowbar, a chisel, a spatula, a nail puller, a puncher, a screwdriver (a Phillips screwdriver).
First, we remove the slopes. If they are assembled from PVC panels, clean the seams of sealant or glue. Take a chisel or flat head screwdriver and remove decorative panels. If the slopes are plastered, use a chisel and a hammer to remove a layer of plaster. Remove the sashes from the hinges. In plastic windows, remove the decorative top trim, press the stem with pliers. From the bottom hinge we remove only the overlay, lift the sash up.
With wooden windows it is more difficult. Often the hinges are painted over with paint or completely rusted, then we knock out the stem manually with a hammer or tear off the sash from the frame with a crowbar, crowbar.
We remove the glass. We take a spatula, insert it end-to-end with a glazing bead, which fixes the position of the double-glazed window, hook it up and remove it. We remove all 4 glazing beads that hold the double-glazed window. Remove the top bead last. We take out the glass, not forgetting to wear thick gloves so as not to get hurt. To safely remove the glass from the frame, you can use special suction cups.
We pass to the windowsill. We remove the old concrete window sill with a hammer and a puncher. Our window sill is plastic. Since it is in good condition, we carefully remove it and peel off the old layer of foam. With one easy pull up, it is easily dismantled. We remove the ebb, unscrew the fixing screws with a screwdriver or screwdriver.
We take a hacksaw and cut the old layer of mounting foam around the entire perimeter of the window with a tool. Remove fasteners. We unscrew or pull out the anchor plates or self-tapping screws for concrete with a nail puller.
After all the stages of dismantling, the frame remains in the opening. Carefully take it out, preferably with a partner. It is more convenient to remove a wooden frame in parts, first sawing the impost (frame divider), the lower part, and then removing the sidewalls and the upper crossbar.
Step 2: Attaching the New Window Frame to the Opening
Before starting work, we remove dust, debris, pieces of concrete on slopes, large nails. For better adhesion of the mounting foam to the base, we cover it with a primer over the entire width. We insert the frame into the window opening and try it on, having previously removed the sashes and double-glazed windows.
We put support pads under the corners and impost connections of the lower profile of the frame. We make sure that on both sides the frame goes beyond a quarter of the window opening. We use mounting wedges, not pieces of wood or an old window frame. The gaps between the frame and the slopes should be about 2 cm on the sides and bottom and at least 1 cm on top to fill the space with mounting foam.
We check possible deviations horizontally and vertically by the level.
If you install a metal-plastic window in accordance with GOST, we recommend sticking PSUL tape around the outer perimeter of the frame. It will protect the mounting seams from ultraviolet radiation, moisture penetration, the formation of fungus and mold, and will create reliable sound insulation. On the end with inside frame (on the sides and top), we glue the double-sided vapor barrier tape. She brings out excess moisture outside and does not allow it to penetrate from the outside, provides good ventilation. The adhesive tape must be wider than the overlap joint.
We drill holes in the frame and wall for pins. We retreat from the corners of the frame in each direction by 15–18 cm and check the deviations in level. It's hard to do everything yourself. Therefore, one person works as a puncher, and the second holds the level. The distance between fasteners on the frame should not exceed 70 cm.
On the lower part of the frame, we retreat 12-18 cm from the dividers (imposts) on each side and make holes for the dowels. We do similar actions in the upper part of the frame.
We insert dowels into the holes, tighten them first, not completely. We check the structure again by level and finally fix the fasteners. We put decorative caps-stubs on the hats.
Step 3: Exterior Waterproofing and Foaming the Joints
For waterproofing the external mounting seam, we lay a vapor-permeable tape under the ebb. It will protect the seam from moisture and provide the necessary ventilation.
We lay the tape along the entire length of the window opening. Remove the bottom base and attach it with the adhesive side to the base. We fix the drainage. In our case, we use old pattern with customized sizes. When installing a new ebb, we measure the distance between the quarters. According to the measurements made, we cut off the desired length of the ebb. We retreat 2 cm on each side and cut off the edge. We insert the ebb into the groove and fix it with self-tapping screws on the stand profile, having drilled 3-5 holes for fixing.
Plastic window structures are rapidly replacing their wooden counterparts from the market. If you also decide to replace the old windows with more modern designs, you will not hurt to read the instructions for self-installation new PVC windows. Professional installers They charge a lot of money for this kind of work. Does it make sense to overpay if you can handle all the tasks yourself?
It is assumed that before starting the installation, you have already decided what size of windows will suit you, what configuration new systems should have, what fittings you will order, etc. Deal with the solution of these issues on your own or with the help of a consultant of the company to which you decide to entrust the manufacture of plastic windows.
Immediately before starting installation, you need to decide whether you will fasten the windows through the frame or use the method that involves the use of special fastening "lugs".
The first option is more common. However, it may seem inconvenient to you for the reason that before starting the installation, you will need to remove the hinged doors from the frame, and remove the double-glazed windows from the deaf doors.
The second option is more convenient for self installation- you don’t have to disassemble anything, therefore, the risk of damage to the structure and violation of its tightness is minimized.
When choosing the second method, find yourself an intelligent assistant in advance. The window in the assembly weighs quite a lot, and installing it yourself is incredibly difficult.
Preparatory work
Right before the start PVC mounting windows you have to perform a number of important preparatory work.
Site preparation
When ordering windows, specify when they will be delivered to you. Start preparing the site shortly before the delivery of the windows.
First step. Move all furniture and appliances away from the window opening.
Second step. Cover the floor and radiators with a protective film or thick cloth.
Third step. Organize workplace so that nothing interferes with you, and everything you need to install the window is at hand.
First step. Remove the shutters and dismantle window panes if you prefer the method of fixing through the frame.
To remove the double-glazed window, carefully pry off the fastening bead with a simple chisel and, with a careful blow on the same chisel, snap the fastener out of the groove. First, pull out the vertical fixing glazing beads. Then, in the same order, get rid of the horizontal fasteners.
In order not to get confused in the future, be sure to mark the fasteners. Their size may differ slightly, but even a difference of a fraction of a millimeter will be enough for gaps to appear.
Second step. Tilt the window frame. The double-glazed window will independently come out of the mounting grooves. Carefully place the removed double-glazed window against a wall or other stable surface at an angle.
Third step. Remove the plugs from the canopies of the wings and unscrew the fixing bolts. Next, you need to release the upper part of the swing casement. To do this, turn the knob "for ventilation". Get the hook located in the lower canopy.
As a result, you will get a “bare” frame with jumpers.
Fourth step. From the inside of the window frame, prepare holes for the anchor. Place holes around the perimeter of the product so that there are at least 3 attachment points on each side, and at least two at the bottom and top.
The diameter of the anchors for fixing windows is 0.8-1 cm. To create holes, use a drill of the same diameter.
If the plastic window is fixed using special "lugs", the disassembly of the structure can be ignored. In such a situation, all preparation comes down to fixing the fasteners from the kit to the frame with screws.
Video - How to remove glass from a PVC window
Window dismantling instructions
First step. Remove or tear out the sashes, depending on the design of the window.
Second step. File the box and frame at several points.
Third step. Pry off each part of the structure with a crowbar and remove the frame from the opening. In some situations, it is more convenient to immediately find two-hundred nails, due to which the window is held, and pull them out.
Fourth step. Remove the heat-insulating and sealing materials that appear under the box.
Fifth step. Dismantle the old slopes with a puncher. If the slopes are in good condition, you can not touch them. At this point, be guided by your plans for the further design of slopes.
Sixth step. Pry and dismantle the old window sill.
Seventh step. Get rid of the cement backing under the window sill and at the bottom of the window opening. A perforator will help you with this.
Eighth step. Collect construction debris in suitable containers and take it to the trash. Take the remains of the dismantled window there.
Ninth step. Align the ends of the opening, clean them of dirt. Prime surfaces.
Tenth step. Relevant only for residents of old wooden houses. Lay waterproofing material around the perimeter of the opening. In some situations, it is required to additionally install a wooden reinforcing box.
If necessary, the dimensions of the opening can be reduced with a cement screed. At this point, be guided by the conditions of your particular situation.
Installing and pinning a new window
Proceed with the installation of a pre-prepared window.
First step. Lay special plastic substrates or wooden blocks at the bottom of the opening. Select the dimensions of the substrates in such a way that their upper faces are connected in a straight horizontal line.
Substrates are laid in the corners and in the center of the opening.
Second step. Install a “bare” or assembled frame on the substrates, depending on the window installation method you have chosen. The substrates do not need to be dismantled, they will continue to perform their supporting function.
Without substrates, the window can simply fall out. Anchors, no matter how often you check and tighten them, will still loosen under the weight of the structure. Therefore, for additional strengthening of the substrate system, it is necessary to place not only at the bottom, but also along the side faces, closer to the top of the opening.
Third step. Check the horizontal position of the window structure using an ordinary water level.
If deviations are found, add pegs or get rid of unnecessary elements of the substrate.
Fourth step. Check the vertical position of the window. The detected deviations are eliminated in the same way as in the previous step.
Fifth step. Proceed to fixing the window with anchors in accordance with the chosen method of fixing.
Fastening by the method "through the frame"
First step. Take a puncher and directly through the holes prepared in advance in the frame, drill similar holes for fasteners in the wall.
Second step. Fasten the lower part of the structure from two sides. To do this, you need to insert and fix the anchor, but you do not need to immediately complete the fastening to the end.
Third step. Make sure the window is vertical. Immediately correct the deviations according to the pattern already familiar to you. If everything is fine, drill holes in the center and upper parts window frame. Insert and tighten the anchor. Information about required quantity fasteners were given earlier.
Fourth step. Recheck the window for evenness. Get rid of deviations immediately if they are found.
Fifth step. Tighten the anchor all the way. Do not overtighten them, as the frame can be deformed from excessive tension.
Video - How to install a PVC window
Plate fastening
AT this case special plates will be used to fix the window. They are placed on one or two sides of the window block. The plates are made of thick metal and look like "ears". In such elements, holes for anchors are initially provided.
With this mounting method, you need to bend the mounting plate into a step. The "ear" of the plate should fit as closely as possible to the wall surface. The second part of the plate is bolted to the frame.
Fastening is carried out with the same anchors. The window is fixed in the same order: bottom first, then top and middle. At each stage of installation, be sure to check the evenness of the placement of the structure. Without respect for the vertical and horizontal levels your window will simply deform over time.
Assembly and final check of the window
After fixing all the anchors, proceed to the assembly of the window, if you originally disassembled it. The process is performed in the reverse order of disassembly.
First step. Insert the double-glazed windows into the window frame and fix them with glazing beads, first at the top, then at the bottom, and finally on the sides. A rubber mallet will help you snap the glazing beads.
Second step. Hang back and fix the swing sashes accordingly. Follow the reverse order of dismantling them.
Make sure the flaps move normally. In the normal state, the sash does not make any unauthorized movements when it is opened 45 degrees and 90 degrees.
Third step. Complete the check and seal existing gaps between the walls and the newly installed window. Fill the gaps with special mounting foam in cylinders.
On this, the main work on the installation of PVC windows by hand is considered completed. In the end, you just have to install a plumb line, window sill, mosquito net and make slopes at your discretion.
Installing a window sill (Read the article about installing a window sill with your own hands). Wetting with water. Dedusting
Installing the window sill Laying out the cement mortar
Window sill installation. Wetting with water. Dedusting
Window sill installation. Alignment. Grout
Window sill installation. Drying
Window sill installation. Finished work
Successful installation work!
With the advent of innovative technologies, ordinary residents got the opportunity to equip their homes with great comfort, coziness and warmth. Plastic windows play a significant role in this process. Finally we can get rid of wooden windows, which dry out in summer, dry out in winter, do not retain heat well and become sources of drafts.
double glazing modern type absolutely does not have the listed shortcomings. It is durable, strong, safe for the human body, has a beautiful and attractive appearance. PVC windows will delight you with their functionality for a long time, but with only one condition: the installation of double-glazed windows must take place in accordance with GOST and compliance with all the nuances and rules of installation technology. How to install plastic windows correctly if you have never done this before?
Trying to install double-glazed windows with your own hands is quite problematic, especially if you live in high-rise building. This will require the skill of a climber, which you will not have. Therefore, the easiest way out is to hire specialists. But even if workers who deserve numerous good reviews Those who have recommendations should check if they install your window correctly. And for this you need to know the main points of installing plastic windows, which, for your part, you must control.
Window installation
The technology for installing a plastic window in accordance with GOST involves the step-by-step implementation of a number of measures and activities according to specified criteria, and in strict order each stage.
Installation of a PVC window in accordance with GOST begins with dismantling the old window: workers must completely remove it, clean the opening to a brick or concrete base frames. Next, the workers must prime the surface of slopes into which the new frame will fit.
Please note that when working, installers use a primer, but not water. The primer will ensure good adhesion of the materials that will be further used to seal the voids that have arisen.
How is the special tape attached to the PVC frame? The compacted compressed tape is attached around the perimeter frames from the outside. Its main purpose is to remove residual moisture that will remain in the window opening. Such a device inhibits the penetration of moisture in the opposite direction.
Then to the window frame attach diffusion tape. As a rule, she white color, dense fabric structure on a rubber basis. It adheres well to the openings in the wall, and also protects the seam from moisture.
After attaching all the tapes, the installers fix the anchor plates to the frame. They are placed around the entire perimeter with a distance of 70 cm from each other. After that window block can be installed in a window opening.
Now the installation of a plastic window in accordance with GOST is moving to another stage, including it fastening to a window.
Important! A double-glazed window should not be placed on concrete, but on wooden blocks that are treated with an antiseptic composition. These shoes help to adjust the gaps between the frame and the concrete slope. According to existing norms the gap should not exceed 2 cm.
When the anchor plates are attached to the wall opening, the resulting gap must be fill with mounting foam.
Foam is additional thermal insulation. It must fill all gaps and crevices to prevent excess moisture from entering. In addition, it is the mounting foam that helps reduce noise. After sealing the cracks with foam from the inside, the seams must cover with dense diffuse tape.
Before installing the window sill, workers should use metallic tape, which takes part in the thermal insulation of the lower seam.
Remember! Professional installers must lay the protective tape along the outer area of the window, that is, from the street. And the mounting foam from the side of the facade should not be visible at all.
window sill fixing
- this is the final stage of installation of PVC windows.
A cement screed is laid on the concrete base, which will help ensure the stability of the window sill. Only on this solution it will not sag and even can support the weight of a person who wanted to sit on a comfortable base.
Internal slopes are applied to the initial profile, and each subsequent step is performed using measurements building level which helps trace the level of the frame inclination. If it even slightly exceeds the norm, then the window will be bad both to open and close. Therefore, the construction team must be closely monitored.
Installation of plastic windows in accordance with GOST 30971-2002 should be carried out in this sequence. And finally, we note that before letting the workers go and signing the act of accepting work, control the window, open and close the sashes and check that correct work in all directions.
In conclusion, we suggest watching a video of how the installation of a plastic window according to GOST should look like:
If you have ever installed plastic windows, and the workers who served you performed the installation strictly according to the instructions and in accordance with GOST 30971-2002, leave your feedback in the comments.
