The distance between the anchors when installing pvc windows. Installation of plastic windows on anchor plates. Video about mounting a window on anchor plates

Not so long ago, metal-plastic windows were considered a kind of "elite" element of a house or apartment, accessible to very few wealthy owners. Today the situation has changed - these window systems have become less expensive and have become widely used by almost all average families. They significantly outperform wooden ones both in terms of the degree of insulation, and in terms of sound insulation, and on by fitting all the elements, which becomes a reliable barrier to drafts and street dust. And just outwardly, such windows are very nice and easily fit into any design of the house and its premises.

In a word, both during the construction of new housing and during repairs, the issue is almost always unambiguously resolved in favor of installing just such. There are a great many companies, large and small, involved in their assembly at the present time in almost all regions of the country. Large companies immediately include their installation in the price of their windows - with large volumes of production, they can afford it. But you can often meet small private enterprises that require a separate fee for installation - and this is about 2.5 ÷ 3.0 thousand rubles at the present time. It is clear that the thought immediately arises - is it so difficult to install a plastic window with your own hands? Is it possible to save on this by carrying out an independent installation?

It turns out that this is quite doable. The main thing is to understand the process technology well and immediately prepare the necessary consumables. And, of course, during installation, exercise increased accuracy, strictly follow the installation instructions.

The main stages of installing a plastic window

Must be carried out in a clear sequence. This technology has already withstood the “test of time”, and it will not be advisable to make adjustments to it at your own discretion.

• First of all, the necessary measurements are carried out, an order is made for the window structure.
• After the window is manufactured and delivered, the old frames are dismantled, the opening is cleaned, and it is adjusted - if necessary.
• The next step is preparing the new window for installation. It may vary - depending on the chosen method of installing the window, which will be discussed below.
• The most important step is the correct installation of the window in the opening, its vertical and horizontal alignment, leaving the required gaps, and fastening to the walls.
• Next, there is a sealing of the seams between the frame and the opening, providing hydro- and vapor barrier.
• The next step is to install a low tide outside and a window sill inside the room.
• The final adjustment of the window mechanisms is carried out, the installation of the necessary fittings.
• When the room will be finished, window slopes are installed.

Now about the main stages - with all the details.

Two main ways of fixing plastic windows

Before undertaking independent work, you need to understand a little theory.

• Firstly, one should not be taken for window installation by someone who does not quite accurately represent his device. First, let's look at the window from the outside:

1 – Window frame assembled from PVC profile.

2 – Openable window sash, also made of a special profile. It can open in several planes, for example, be tilt-and-turn. It is suspended from the frame by means of special fittings, which allow precise adjustment of the sash position.

3 – The central post is an impost dividing the common plane of the entire window into two or more parts. The material of manufacture is the same frame profile.

4 – Installed in the opening sash or directly into the frame profile (with the "deaf" part of the window) double glazing. It can be single-chamber (two panes) or two-chamber (3 panes).

5 - Fittings. In this case, the handle of the opening sash is shown.

6 - PVC window sill, which is usually ordered, purchased and installed at the same time as the window itself.

Now let's look at the same window in a section (for convenience, continuous numbering is used, that is, if the positions coincide with the top figure, their numbers are saved):

- The frame profile (pos. 1) has several air chambers (usually from 3 to 5 ÷ 6) - the more there are, the higher the thermal insulation qualities of the window system. Profiles are counted along a horizontal line in the direction from the street to the room. In this case, the figure shows a three-chamber profile.

— Inside the profile there is a reinforcing metal profile (pos. 7). This element etc idae t t the required rigidity of the frame structure.

- The sash profile is arranged in approximately the same way (pos. 2). The number of chambers is usually the same as on the frame; a reinforcing metal element is also placed inside (pos. 8)

- A double-glazed window in the frame or in the window sash is held with glazing beads (pos. 9).

- The diagram additionally shows the installation of a PVC panel window slope. Pos . 10 - starting profile, pos. 11 - PVC panel, pos. 12 - also made of PVC.

Of course, windows from different manufacturers may have their own characteristics, the shape of the cross-section of profiles and reinforcement, the number of air chambers, the design of the double-glazed window, but still the typical scheme remains the same.

More details about, and how to choose the right model for it, are described in a special publication of our portal.

• Secondly, you need to decide on the method of fastening the window in the opening. In practice, two main approaches are used - installation directly through the frame with dowels or anchors, or installation using brackets (anchor plates) previously fixed to the window.

BUT. In the first case (in the figure - on the left), the frame is drilled through, and a hole is made in the wall coaxially with the hole in it. The fastener is inserted through the frame, tightened, and its head will then be hidden by the installed double-glazed window or covered sash.

Advantages of this method:

• The window in the opening is set much more accurately.
• The fixing strength of the entire window system is higher, so this approach is the only possible one for large windows (2000 mm or more on either side), or where high external loads are expected (especially windy places, high number of storeys, etc.)

Disadvantages:

• The window requires mandatory disassembly - removal of glazing beads and double-glazed windows, opening sashes. For the inexperienced master it's an extra problem, since when dismantling the glazing beads it is easy to scratch or even bend, and the removed double-glazed window requires especially careful handling. For the need for disassembly, this method is often called installation with unpacking the window.
• Violation of the integrity of the profile (drilling it through) reduces its thermal insulation qualities, and under certain conditions can provoke.
• This installation takes longer.

B. Installation on anchor plates or other brackets fixed on the end part of the PVC window frame. After placing the window in the desired position in the opening, these platinums are fastened with dowels or anchors to the wall (schematically shown in the upper figure on the right). The window sill and further finishing of the slopes will hide them from sight.

Advantages:

• Such installation is easier and faster, especially if regular anchor plates are used, which fit snugly into the grooves intended for them on the end of the profile.

• The integrity of the profile is not violated - there is no need to drill through it.
• There is no mandatory need to disassemble the window - you can install it in a mounted form. (Because of this, this method is sometimes referred to as "without unpacking"). True, this advantage can be called very conditional, for several reasons at once. Firstly, windows are most often delivered unassembled from the manufacturer. Secondly, it is very difficult and dangerous to mount a window assembly with double-glazed windows installed, especially on a high floor, due to its large mass. And thirdly, filling the remaining gaps from the outside, providing external waterproofing and installing a low tide is still more convenient to carry out with completely removed double-glazed windows.

Flaw, in principle, one that has already been mentioned - in terms of the strength of the installation, in terms of the resistance of a large window to weight and wind loads, this method is significantly inferior.

Taking measurements

Immediately it is appropriate to make one very important remark. The owners of the apartment, one way or another, will have to contact the company that manufactures windows to place an order. The best situation would be when a representative of the manufacturer comes and independently takes all the necessary measurements. Firstly, a specialist in this matter has much more experience, and the probability of error will be minimal. Measurers, as a rule, are already familiar with all typical buildings, and it is much easier for them to deal with the nuances of window openings. And secondly, if it suddenly happens that the manufactured window for some reason suddenly does not correspond to the opening, then all responsibility will fall on the employees of the company, and the customer will have the right to demand the manufacture of the correct window structure.

Measurements are most often a free service.

Very often, in serious companies, the measurement of the opening is included in the cost of the order and is not paid additionally, so there is no need to fool yourself.

If, nevertheless, it is decided to carry out measurements on your own, then you should first understand the configuration of the window opening.

• In panel high-rise buildings, most often there are openings with a quarter - a monolithic side on both sides and on top of the opening, forming such way the outer slope of the window (in the figure - on the left).
• In brick houses, there is usually no quarter - the opening is formed by straight planes perpendicular to the wall (in the figure - on the right).

Measurements of different openings have their own characteristics.

Measurement of a window opening with a quarter

When measuring a window with a quarter, it is taken into account that on both vertical sides and from above the window frame should be a quarter by 15 ÷ 25 mm, and at the same time there must still be a gap to fill it with mounting foam.

So the measurement is done like this:

• Outside, in several places (top, center, bottom), the distance is measured strictly horizontally BUT between opposite slopes. Given that the window should go on them by 15 ÷ 25 mm, 30 ÷ 50 mm are added to the resulting distance. In this way, the required window width is preliminarily obtained.

Now measurements are taken inside. The width of the opening is determined With at its widest point, at the level of the wall (also horizontally in several places - for control). Not to be confused with magnitude AT, which shows the distance between the slopes at the frame itself - this indicator in this case has no determining value.

Now you can compare the previously obtained width of the required window with the width of the opening. On each side, at least 20 mm must remain on the sides for sealing with mounting foam. It is possible to correct the ordered width, as there is a certain range of window setting by a quarter.

• Now about the height of the window. The entry of the frame to the upper quarter remains the same. lower quarter, usually, it does not happen in the openings, since a window sill and an external ebb are installed here. For their installation, it is necessary to additionally use an installation profile under the window frame. Most often, manufacturers mount it even in the process of fulfilling an order, but it never hurts to check.

An important structural element is a substitution profile

So, how to correctly measure and calculate the height of the window:

Measurements are taken from the outside - from the upper quarter to the point where the tide located at an angle (if it is standing) touches the outer corner of the opening ( F).

To this value is added 15 ÷ 25 mm - this is the entry of the frame into the upper quarter. Now you need to subtract 30 mm - this is the height of the installation profile. Under it, there should also be a gap for sealing - from 5 to 20 mm. They are also subtracted from the resulting value. The result should be the required height of the window.

For control, measurements are made inside - from the top point of the opening to the window sill ( E), and then you need to try to measure the distance from top the surface of the window sill to the “bare” opening (sometimes it makes sense for me to remove the window sill altogether, since it will change soon anyway). The resulting opening height will allow you to check the correctness of the calculations - window height + substitution profile + not less 20 mm from above and 5 ÷ 20 mm from below for sealing with polyurethane foam.

Note - if it is not planned to install a substitution profile (which in itself is already a serious drawback), then the gap between the frame and the opening from below is left not less than 40 mm.

You can immediately take measurements to order a window sill, low tide and slopes.

• The length of the ebb is equal to the distance between the quarters (A) plus 50 mm. Width - the distance from the window to the edge of the opening plus 20 ÷ 30 mm.

• The length of the window sill - the maximum width of the opening ( With) plus 50 mm. The width is usually standardized and the most suitable option for specific conditions is selected, taking into account the distance from the frame to the corner between the opening and the inner wall, plus the desired distance of the window sill to the outside (usually another 30 ÷ 50 mm).

Measurement of a direct opening, without a quarter.

With a simple straight opening, measurements and calculations will be much easier.

Measuring for a direct opening - much easier

The opening is measured vertically and horizontally at several points, in the widest places (in the diagram - a).

• The width of the window will thus be equal to this distance minus two mounting gaps. With. We take it, as before, for 20 mm, that is, in the end we subtract 40 mm.
• The height of the window is determined by the difference between the height of the opening, the mounting gap from above (20 mm) and the thickness of the mounting profile (30 mm) and 10 mm of the gap below it. If the profile is not installed, then the mounting clearance from below is 40 mm. In total, 60 mm is subtracted from the total height of the opening.

Otherwise, the measurements remain the same as with a window with a quarter.

If the measurements are done, you can go to place an order. But one more time not superfluous will repeat - it’s better to call the measurer to the house so that he takes into account all possible nuances, for example, a slight skew of the opening, which arose due to the shrinkage of the building.

Preparing Instruments and Consumables

While the window is being made, it makes sense to start preparing for further work. It is necessary to prepare the tool and consumables for installation.

Of the tools and materials you will need:

	Perforator with a set of drills (6, 8 and 10 mm) and a chisel-blade		Screwdriver with bit set
	Drill 10.2 mm for metal		Screwdriver Set
	Roulette		Building level, better than 300 mm long
	Construction knife		Marking pencil
	Rubber or special plastic hammer for PVC windows		Spatula, width 50 ÷ 60 mm
	Hacksaw for cutting PVC		Wood saw
	Anchor plates - if the method of fastening "without unpacking" or combined is used		Drive-in dowel nails, Ø6 mm - for anchor plates or Ø10 mm - when fastening through the frame.
	Metal frame dowels (anchors) Ø 10 mm		Self-tapping screws 4×16 and 4×25
	Pre-Compressed Self-Expanding Sealing Tape (PSUL)		Thermo-vapor barrier tape PPE, best of all - foil
	Vapor Permeable Diffusion Tape		Mounting foam and a gun for its application
	Silicone sealant - a small tube should suffice.		Wedges for window alignment. You can use specialized plastic ones or limit yourself to wooden ones.

The table needs clarification:

I.Primarily, we deal with the number of points for fastening. It depends on the size and design of the window. There are certain standards that ensure reliable fixation of the window system. Below is a diagram of the approximate placement of points for fastening. Three of the most common options - a window with an impost, a completely blank window and a balcony block.

In all three cases, there are three main quantities, BUT, AT and With.

BUT- the distance from the inner corner of the window frame to the fixing points. Be sure to put two points from the corner, both vertically and horizontally. The value A is taken equal to from 150 to 180 mm.

AT- the maximum distance between adjacent points on one side of the frame. It is taken equal to:

- for "white" PVC windows - no more than 700 mm.

- for windows made of colored PVC profiles - 600 mm.

With- the distance from the impost to the attachment point towards the larger sash (if two wide sashes are the same, then it is better to install fasteners on both sides). The value of this distance is from 120 to 180 mm.

Having such a scheme in front of your eyes and knowing the linear dimensions of the ordered window, it is easy to calculate the required amount of fasteners. It is advisable to even immediately sketch out a scheme for arranging points for fasteners - this will be a good help when carrying out work.

II. What type of fasteners will be needed? It depends on the wall material and on the method of fixing the window in the opening.

If the “unpacking” fastening method is used, that is, through the frame, then metal, frame dowels (anchors) or dowel-nails with a diameter of 10 mm are taken. At the same time, it is advisable to use anchors on concrete, brick (solid or hollow brick), expanded clay concrete, foam concrete walls or made of natural stone. Dowel nails are preferred on walls made of materials that do not have a high degree of compressive strength, such as lightweight concrete or other porous materials. They will also fit hollow blocks and bricks.

In the case when installation on anchor plates will be used, it will be enough for each attachment point of two dowel-nails with a diameter of 6 or 8 mm. In addition, the plates themselves will be needed - and it is better to purchase them in the same organization that manufactures the window - special hooks on the plate must fit exactly to the PVC profile. To fix the plate, in addition, you will need self-tapping screws with a drilling tip 4 × 25 mm - one piece for each attachment point.

The length of the main fasteners must be such that, taking into account the thickness of the frame and the width of the mounting clearance, a minimum penetration into the thickness of the wall is ensured. For various wall materials, it has its own value - see the table:

Small 4 x 16 self-tapping screws may be needed to attach the sill and accessories for installing the window sill. They are also needed if it is planned to install a mosquito net on the outside of the window - they attach plastic brackets to the frame profile.

• The PSUL tape is purchased with the expectation that it is enough for the entire perimeter of the window. It is installed in such a way as to seal the gap between the window and the adjacent quarter - on the sides and top. And from below it will be attached when installing an external tide. If the window opening is without quarters, then, accordingly, less tape will be needed.
• PPE tape with foil - it will be necessary to completely isolate the perimeter of the window from the inside.
• Vapor permeable diffuse membrane tape - will cover the bottom side of the window from the outside when opening with a quarter, and it is desirable to glue it around the entire perimeter, if the opening is straight, without a quarter.
• Polyurethane foam: the best option is to purchase cylinders with "pro" - foam, which will require a special gun to use. It does not give "inadequate" expansion, like cheap ones sold in spray guns, and will not have a deforming effect on the frame racks. In addition, it is much better, more durable, it is much easier to apply it to the right places, without unnecessary overspending.
• Finally, silicone sealant. It may be needed to seal narrow gaps between the frame and the window sill or slopes. With proper installation, the gaps, if any, are very small, that is, a large amount of sealant is not required.

And finally prudent the owner will purchase a film that will cover furniture, walls, floors in the room where the window will be installed - at first the work will be quite dusty.

Dismantling the old window

After the window is made and delivered to the place of work, you can move on. It is clear that before installing a new PVC window, it is necessary to dismantle the old one and clear the opening. This work is quite dirty and laborious, but you can’t do without it. An approximate sequence of actions is in the table below:

Miniature	Description of the operations performed
	First of all, the largest sashes are removed. For example, if a balcony block is dismantled, then the door is removed. There is an important nuance - it is possible to remove sashes or doors along with glass only if the structure has retained its rigidity. If the window "plays" or is very rotten, then for reasons of elementary safety, the glass is first removed and taken out.
	It is recommended that all dismantled parts be taken out of the work area immediately - there is a high risk of accidentally breaking the old window glass and getting injured.
	If the side of the window has a window, then first remove it. If it was not possible to unscrew the old fasteners of the hinges (and most often this happens), then you will have to make an effort - usually this is enough to remove the window.
	Windows are usually hung on hinges, from which they can be removed by simply lifting them from below with a pry bar.
	All windows and vents are removed - you can proceed to dismantle the frame.
	First, the central rack is removed - the impost. To make this easier, the import is cut closer to the bottom of the frame. It is necessary to cut with a hacksaw - in some videos, the masters flaunt the fact that they use a “grinder” for this. To repeat after them - in no case should it be - it is extremely dangerous!
	The sawn impost itself becomes a lever, which will not be difficult to break out of the frame.
	Next, the lower jumper of the frame is removed. Again, for ease of dismantling, it is advisable to cut it using a jigsaw.
	Using a pry bar or a nail puller as a lever, one of the halves is pulled up.
	If there is resistance at the place of its attachment with a vertical stand, then you can help yourself with a mount there
	After that, the second half is broken out in the same way.
	After removing the lower jumper, the window sill is dismantled. It can be knocked out with a hammer from the side of the street.
	The window sill is removed and exposes the lower plane of the window opening.
	Go to the vertical stand. Often it is tightly wedged from above and below. Then it is better to move it somewhat away from the wall, and also cut it with a jigsaw.
	It will not be difficult to pull out the two halves of the rack one by one
	The upper part of the frame on one side is no longer supported by anything, and should move away without any problems.
	The last vertical leg of the frame should also not resist if it is properly pry with a pry bar. Sometimes, in order to get to the gap between the racks of the frame and the wall, you have to cut off the plastered slopes with a puncher.
	The last stage is the cleaning of the vacated window opening from the old sealant, construction debris, etc. cleaning is carried out very carefully so that the opening remains completely clean before installing the window. Ingoda it makes sense to use hard brushes and a vacuum cleaner. All garbage is loaded into bags and immediately removed from the work area.

Sometimes you have to resort to correcting the opening - removing defects in concrete casting, mortar residues, etc. The easiest way to do this is with a puncher by installing a chisel-shovel on it. It is also advisable to immediately drill small grooves in the wall on both sides, about 50 mm wide and deep and about 30 high, at the place of the future installation of the window sill.

After cleaning the dust, one should not be too lazy and walk around the entire opening with a layer - this will strengthen the surface to a certain extent and improve adhesion with the mounting foam.

Preparing a new window for installation

BUT. If it is planned to install the window “with unpacking”, then it is advisable to stipulate the order even at checkout so that it is brought disassembled (and this is most often the case). If not, then you will have to disassemble it yourself.

• First, glazing beads are removed from the blind sash. They can be pry off with the blunt side of a knife or a spatula, starting from the center. Then, when the first gap appeared, it is expanded by gently moving the instrument in one direction and the other.

The main thing is to carefully pry the glazing bead in the center

The glazing bead should disengage in the groove and separate in the interlock. Then it remains to put your fingers under it and carefully separate along the entire length. It is advisable to number the removed glazing bead - so that there is no confusion during reinstallation. But it is better to make a mark with a pencil from the inside out - the pencil mark is very hard to rub off from the PVC surface.

• is retrieved. It is most convenient to do this with a special suction cup, but if it is not there, then you can do it that way. Caution - the double-glazed window is quite heavy and may have sharp edges - it is better to work with gloves.

Please note that plastic inserts may be located under the double-glazed window. Their position will need to be marked in some way so that during installation they stand in the same place.

Prices for a popular line of windows

Video: how to remove a double-glazed window from a PVC window

• It is not required to get a double-glazed window from the opening sash - it is enough to remove the sash itself. It is quite easy to do this. To begin with, the sash handle is transferred to the “closed” position - it looks down. From both hinges, from the top and from the bottom, the decorative casing is removed - it should be easy to pry off with a thin screwdriver. Then we move on to the top loop. It has an axial vertical pin, slightly protruding outward. It is pushed down, and then either carefully knocked out using a thin screwdriver (its diameter should be less than the diameter of the pin), or pulled out by picking it up with pliers.

After that, the sash handle is transferred to the "open" position. The door leans back on top of itself, and then is removed by a translational upward movement from the lower axis. The removed sash, as well as dismantled double-glazed windows, are temporarily removed from the working area so as not to be accidentally damaged during further operations.

Video: how to remove a PVC window sash

• The next step in preparation is drilling holes for fixing the window in the opening. To do this, according to the previously drawn up layout of points for fastening, the centers of the holes are marked and slightly punched. A drill for metal Ø 10.2 mm is inserted into the chuck of a drill, hammer drill (switched to non-impact action) or a screwdriver.

Drilling is best done from the outside of the frame. In this case, the drill, having quickly passed the PVC layer, immediately, without distortion, rests against the reinforcing profile. After it is passed, there will be one insignificant obstacle in the form of the inner PVC surface of the frame. If you change the direction of drilling a hole, then it is much more difficult to achieve its perpendicularity and evenness of the edges.

• Checks for the presence of a wildcard profile. It is attached from below with a conventional locking connection, entering the grooves of the frame part. If for some reason it is not available, then it is advisable to purchase and install it. Most often, it does not require additional fastening. Experienced craftsmen advise in advance, about a day before installing the window, to fill the cavities of this profile with mounting foam so that it does not become a “weak link” in the thermal insulation of the entire window system.

• The protective coating is removed from the outside of the frame. If this is not done immediately, then it will be very difficult to separate the film that has been in the sun at least a little. And in general - it will be difficult to remove the protective coating from the outside after installing the window. On the inside, this coating can be removed later.

If there is a mosquito net on the window, now is the time to mount brackets for it. They are mounted on self-tapping screws 2 × 16 mm, screwed to the PVC profile.

Their placement should be such that it does not interfere with the pressing of the window to the upper quarter of the opening, and that the mesh is securely fixed, as well as its installation and removal by its translational movement upwards until it stops against the upper brackets.

• The last preparatory step in this case is gluing the PSUL tape on three sides of the window, in those areas where the frame will be pressed against the quarters of the opening.

Usually PSUL is placed in such a way that between its inner side facing the center of the window and the edge of the quarter there is a gap of about 3 ÷ 5 mm.

B. If it is planned to install the window on anchor plates, then the preparation process will have its own characteristics.

- Firstly, the deglazing of a deaf sash may not be carried out - it will be enough to remove the opening ones. True, this has already been mentioned, installation will become somewhat more complicated due to the large mass of the window.

- Secondly, anchor plates are installed at the intended attachment points. They have serrated or even hooks, which must perfectly match the grooves on the outside of the frame profile. It is enough to make a moderate effort, for example, knocking out with a mounting hammer - and they will fall into place.

Installing the anchor plate in the profile groove ...

There is a hole in the center through which they are fixed to the profile with a 4 × 25 mm self-tapping screw - after passing through the reinforcing metal profile, it will securely hold the plate in place. The plates are fixed perpendicular to the frame, and then they are bent so that they fit into the window frame when installed. opening.

... and fixing it with a self-tapping screw

On the opening itself, on its slopes, in those places where the plates will fall, recesses can be made in advance with a perforator. The goal is to reach the wall material, having beaten off the unreliable plaster layer (if any), and facilitate further work on finishing the slopes - the plates will not interfere with this. However, such an operation, especially when installing a window in a “bare” opening, is not mandatory - all this can then be closed with a finish.

The rest of the preparation steps do not differ from those about to which were mentioned above.

Installation and fixing of the window in opening

Very carefully, in compliance with all precautions and, possibly, additional insurance against tipping the frame outward, it is exposed to the window opening. If the opening is with quarters, then the frame should fit snugly against them through the glued PSUL.

The next most important task is to very accurately set the frame in vertical and horizontal planes, and the building level becomes the main tool. One good piece of advice can be given - to temporarily fix the window approximately in the center on top of the anchor plate - the degree of freedom will be preserved, and it will be much easier to work.

The level is set on the inner plane of the lower jumper of the frame - that's why the tool is preferable dl other 300 mm. The absence of vertical blockage of the frame is checked by applying a level from the side of the room to the impost and to the side posts.

To ensure the necessary clearances on all sides and the correct position of the frame, wooden or plastic wedges are used.

Plastic ones are definitely preferable, and if you can get them, then this would be an ideal option. They "work in pairs", engaging one after the other through small teeth. Moving (knocking) them one relative to another, you can set the desired height to the nearest millimeter.

You can, of course, completely get by with wooden wedges or linings, but often this requires trimming, replacing, installing several pieces in a “pyramid”, etc.

The wedges should wedge the window so that you can move on to fixing it in the opening.

When installing fasteners using the “with unpacking” method, experienced craftsmen often practice making a hole in the wall directly through the already drilled channels in the frame profile. This is quite acceptable, but only if the installer is 100% sure of the quality of the wall, the power of the tool, and the hardness of his hand. It happens that the perforator drill hits an obstacle, a beating begins, which, if not kept, can turn a neat hole in the PVC profile.

Drilling a hole right through the frame is dangerous enough

If there are any doubts about this, it is better to carefully mark the centers of the holes with a puncher, then remove the frame, and then start drilling. True, in this case, you will have to re-set the window to its previous position and wedge it, but with drilled holes, this will already be easy to do.

Driving the anchor into the prepared nest ...

The anchor is inserted into the hole directly through the frame, knocked out with a hammer until it is completely immersed, and then twisted, but without a "fanatical" effort so that the head does not deform the PVC profile. If dowel nails are used, then the plastic part is inserted first, and then the expansion nail is carefully driven in.

… followed by tightening

The fastener heads are decorated with special plugs, to be sure, lightly lubricating them from below with a drop of silicone sealant.

When installing a window on anchor plates, the process is even easier. They are finally given the desired bend so that they fit snugly against the surface of the window opening. Holes are drilled directly through their holes in the wall Ø 6 mm, into which dowel-nails are installed and hammered.

Window installed using the method "without unpacking"

The standards define two fasteners per plate, although, judging by the numerous photographs on the Internet, many masters are limited to one. Probably, nevertheless, with two - more reliable, and they are not at all expensive. However, sometimes the steepness of the bend of the plate simply does not allow you to install two dowels.

Sealing gaps

After the window is securely fixed in the opening, you can proceed to sealing the gaps between it and the opening, installing a window sill and low tide.

An important note - in the case when the installer decided in order to save ( absolutely unjustified) to use inexpensive "household" mounting foam, you must first assemble the window - install the sashes and double-glazed windows. The fact is that such a foam has a very significant expansion force, which can lead to even slight deformation - deflection into the frame profile. And even a slight curvature can lead to difficulties with installing a double-glazed window or with closing the sash, which means that the window must be given “standard” rigidity before foaming.

Filling openings with high-quality "professional" foam will not entail such consequences. With the help of a pistol, which has a long and easy-to-use mouthpiece, filling is carried out down up. In no case should there be internal cavities - the foam should lie evenly and tightly. Its residual expansion is insignificant, which makes it possible to economically control its consumption. Particular attention is paid to narrow cavities, for example, under the staging profile.

While the window is in a disassembled state, nothing prevents you from checking the filling of the openings with foam from the outside, if necessary, making certain adjustments. This is especially important if opening has no quarters.

If the width of the gap between the frame and the opening is more than 20 mm, then it is likely that you will have to fill it with foam in two passes, with a pause between them of 2 ÷ 3 hours. The quality of the filling will only benefit from this.

Mounting - an excellent insulation, but very vulnerable. It must be protected from sunlight and excessive moisture. This should be done immediately after it completely hardens (in about a day), and the excess is cut off.

If a opening does not have quarters, then you should not delay with the device of external slopes, which should completely hide the hardened layer of foam from direct exposure to ultraviolet rays. Solutions here may be different, for example, plastering or paneling.

But in any case, it is recommended to first cover the outside of the foam with a diffuse membrane - it is necessary to ensure the free exit of water vapor into the atmosphere, while preventing the penetration of moisture from the outside. Moisture, if it accumulates in the thickness of the insulation, is capable of damaging effects when freezing and expanding.

And from the inside, another tape is used - PPE, which has both hydro and vapor barrier qualities. It will not allow from the inside either a direct ingress of water into the insulation layer, or the penetration of steam. In addition, the foil layer facing the room is another frontier of reliable thermal insulation.

Installing a window sill and tide

BUT. Installing a window sill can be done in different ways. So, they are mounted on glue or mounting foam, on special brackets or same using self-made fasteners made, for example, from straight hangers, which are usually used with galvanized drywall profiles.

Ideally, the window sill at its base should fit into a special groove for it on the substitution profile. Sometimes the frame design itself implies the presence of a special quarter, designed specifically for mating with the window sill plane. If it is not there, then the panel can be slipped under the frame profile, wedged from below for a snug fit to it.

To make it easier to understand, an approximate diagram of the correct installation of the window sill and low tide is given. Pay attention to location film membranes.

Consider the option of installing a window sill on mounting foam, as one of the most common.

• Wedges are placed under the window sill panel (again, better adjustable plastic ones), with a step of 400 ÷ 500 mm. The panel itself is cut to the exact size, often taking into account a slight penetration into the wall on both sides. You can cut the window sill with a hacksaw with a fine tooth.
• Then, by adjusting the height of the wedges, it is ensured that the panel inserted into the socket intended for it on the frame or staging profile is occupied in an exactly horizontal position.
• Now the window sill must be loaded so that when the space below it is filled with foam, it does not move from the set position. The load can be given by placing on the windowsill evenly along the entire length, for example, water containers.

• The space under the window between the wedges is completely filled with mounting foam. She will and thermal insulator and act as glue.
• It will be possible to remove the load only after the foam has completely hardened.

• If a small gap remains between the frame and the window sill, it is carefully sealed with white silicone sealant.

B. The next is the installation of a low tide from the outside. An exemplary circuit is shown in the figure.

The place of fastening of the ebb is already covered vapor permeable a membrane that completely covered the mounting foam. It is recommended to glue the PSUL strip along the opening plane - the ebb, located at an angle, will rest on it, which will create another barrier against the penetration of moisture from the street.

The ebb itself is attached to the substitution profile with 4 × 16 self-tapping screws, with a pitch of 100 ÷ 150 mm. It can be mounted flush, and then it makes sense to smear its edge with silicone sealant. But it’s even better if its curved edge enters from below into a special groove of the production profile - then you won’t have to be afraid of rainwater penetrating under the tide at all.

Just like the window sill, it makes sense to slightly deepen the plane of the wall on both sides by gouging grooves for this. Then it will be easy to fix them with plaster.

Final window assembly

When the installation of the main elements is completed, it is necessary to bring the window into fully working condition.

• Double-glazed windows are inserted into place, using those plastic linings¸ that were originally installed. According to the numbering, glazing beads are mounted in place. This is most conveniently done with a special rubber or plastic hammer. The glazing bead should sit exactly along its entire length - straightness, an audible click and the absence of a gap will indicate that it has clearly taken its position.

• The removed sashes are installed in place - how to do this has already been described and shown above. After installation, the operability of the mechanism for opening and closing the sash in all modes and the tightness of its fit to the frame are immediately checked.
• If necessary, an accurate one is made (how to do this - in a special article of the portal). If there is no need for adjustment, then the hinges are closed with decorative casings.

In fact, the installation of the window is completed. Only the issue of installation remained unresolved - but this is already a topic for separate consideration, which is also paid attention to on the pages of our portal.

Finally, detailed Video instruction for the installation of metal-plastic windows. Read, watch, evaluate your strengths in order to make a decision - is it feasible to install a plastic window with your own hands, or does it still make sense to turn to specialists for help?

Video: instructions for self-installation of PVC windows

Installing plastic windows is not a very laborious job. Therefore, each person can independently begin the installation of plastic windows. But who nevertheless decided to take up the installation of windows with his own hands, he is faced with the problems of choosing fasteners. After all, there are many types of fasteners on the product market. And every novice builder wonders.

What fastener is better to choose for window installation? To answer this question unequivocally, let's understand this issue thoroughly. And consider the types of fasteners for plastic windows, as well as installation rules and characteristics.

Types of fasteners for windows

• Anchor dowel
• Anchor plates
• Nog

And now let's pay attention to their features.

Anchor dowel

This type of fastening for plastic windows is very reliable. The principle of operation is designed so that when the screw is tightened, the sleeve bursts the walls of the sleeve and the element is securely fixed.

The size. There are a huge number of dowel sizes from 100 to 200 mm, and their thickness is from 7-12 mm. To calculate your dowel length, you need to measure the thickness of the window and opening from the frame and slope.

Usually the frame thickness varies about 4-6 cm, and the dowel should also enter the wall at a distance of 4 cm. If you have a distance from the wall to the window of about 3-4 cm, then you need a dowel 110 mm, if 8-10, then 160- 190 mm.

Disadvantages. The disadvantage of which fastening is that when installing the dowel it is no longer possible to dismantle it. Therefore, you need to take window alignment very seriously, because. correcting your mistakes will cost you a lot and take a lot of time.

Also, if you hit the rebar with a drill, then you can break the drill and you will have to drill a new hole.

Important. Before installing a plastic window in an apartment building, you need to find out its type and wall structure. Because, in many panel houses, builders lay insulation inside the walls. Therefore, during installation, you can get into the insulation and the dowel can fall out. Also, do not mount the dowel in soft building materials.

The depth of drilling inwards under the dowel depends on the material from which the wall is made. In a concrete wall, the depth is 4 cm, and in a brick wall, 7-8 cm.

Nog

A dowel is a simple screw that is screwed into the wall to secure the window. This type of fastener is also very reliable. Unlike the dowel, the dowel is easily unscrewed in any case.

Dimensions. There are a huge number of dowel sizes from 100 to 250 mm, and a thickness of 5-12 mm. To calculate the length of the dowel, you need to measure the width of the window and opening from the frame and slope. If you have a distance from the wall to the window of about 3-4 cm, then you need a 110 mm dowel, if 8-10, then 170-200 mm.

Disadvantages. Before installing a plastic window in an apartment building, you need to find out its type and wall structure. Because, in many panel houses, builders lay insulation inside the walls. Therefore, during installation, you can get into the insulation and the dowel can fall out.

Also, do not mount the dowel in soft building materials.

Important. The depth of drilling inward under the dowel depends on the material from which the wall is made. In a concrete wall, the depth is 6 cm, and in a brick wall, 7-8 cm.

Anchor plates

This type of window fastening is suitable for panel houses in which there is insulation and the use of anchors and dowels is impossible. It is also perfect for wooden houses and baths, where it is not possible to fix windows in the wall. Having filled the free space with mounting foam, this design will be very reliable and warm.

Dimensions. The length of this fastener varies from 150-200 cm. One edge of the plate is fixed with a self-tapping screw to the frame from the outside, and the other is fixed to any supporting structure with two self-tapping screws. The length of the second part should be around 10 cm.

Disadvantages. This type of fastening is not the most reliable.

Important. This method of fastening is the most common, because. he is the simplest. Mostly it is used by novice builders. Anchor plates should be at a distance of 15-20 cm from the corners of the window opening and at a distance of 60 cm from each other.

What type of fastening of plastic windows is the best, I can’t say. Each type has its own disadvantages and advantages. You must choose the type of fastening yourself, depending on the technical features of your home.

Photo fasteners for plastic windows

Reading 7 min.

More recently, in the glazing of residential buildings and industrial buildings, only wooden window frames were used. Today, many consider them relics of the past and are in a hurry to replace them with modern metal-plastic structures. Indeed, in addition to high performance, they are much cheaper than wooden frames. To install plastic windows with your own hands, you do not need to have superpowers. Almost anyone who can hold a tool in their hands will cope with such a task.

However, do not forget that each job requires certain skills and craftsmanship. Lack of experience in installing windows can lead to a number of troubles. These are systematic breakdowns, loose fit and high throughput of street air into the apartment.

To avoid the above points, in this article we will provide step-by-step instructions that will help you install your windows correctly and efficiently. If you still decide to trust the professionals, be aware that some of them are not really like that, and for a number of reasons they frankly neglect the individual stages of proper installation (some save time, others save money). Having an idea about the ongoing work, you can easily exercise independent control over the entire process. And later you will enjoy the high-quality operation of your windows, which will bring joy to all family members.

The main steps for installing new windows:

• taking measurements;
• dismantling of old windows;
• preparation of openings;
• assembly of a metal-plastic structure.

Not everyone knows that the manufacturer does not give absolutely no guarantee for their services in case of installing windows on their own. Therefore, if various troubles arise during the installation process, you should not rely on a refund or replacement. All metal-plastic structures are made strictly according to predetermined dimensions. In the event of your mistake, the window may not fit in the opening or it may turn out to be much smaller. And it will only be your fault. The employees of the company are solely responsible for the implementation of each of the stages of installation of the product.

Also, any inaccuracy made when installing a metal-plastic window will deprive you and your loved ones of all the advantages of a modern design and the expected level of comfort.

window measurements

When performing the necessary measurements, you need to pay attention to the fact that window openings exist with and without a quarter. Accordingly, they have different formulas for calculating sizes.

For the first case, we must measure the width of the opening between the existing quarters, this is done at the narrowest point. And then add 3-4 cm to the figures obtained - this will be the width of our plastic frame. In addition, it is important to check: the largest distance between vertical quarters should not exceed the calculated block width.

Read also: "Karcher" for washing windows: features of use and benefits

The height is determined by measuring between the top quarter and the bottom surface of the window opening.

If the window opening is without a quarter, the required values ​​\u200b\u200bcan be obtained by subtracting 5 cm from the vertical size (to put the window sill) and 3 cm from the horizontal.

When determining the size of the window sill and low tide, it is worth considering the following details:

1. Often the size of the window sill is chosen based on its functionality. It should cover the radiators and indoor flowers should be placed on it;
2. The window sill is taken along the length of the window opening exceeding 8-10 cm, its edges should be drowned in the slope cavity by approximately 4-5 cm;
3. The dimensions of the ebb are calculated taking into account the planned insulation. It is recommended to leave it protruding 5-10 cm from the wall.

Features of measuring balcony windows

When calculating the width of balcony windows, the length of the parapet is taken as the basis, it is on it that the entire structure will lean. Also, on both sides, it is necessary to subtract 6-7 cm, which will be needed for the installation of the corner profile, with the help of which the window blocks of the front and side parts are connected. The distance from the roof to the railing, with the exception of a difference of 2.5-3 cm, which is important to set aside for fastening gaps, will be the height.

Regarding the side balcony frames, their dimensions are determined in the same way. The only thing is that you need to subtract 6-7 cm from the width for mounting the corner profile, as well as 2.5-3 cm for the gap from the wall to the window.

Features of measuring windows in private houses and buildings of the old fund

When measuring windows in private houses and buildings of the old fund, it is recommended to first beat off part of the slopes on both sides (in the measurement areas). This is done in order to see what the space occupied by the window opening is like. It often happens that there are dilapidated cement mortar and various heaters that can crumble during the dismantling of an existing window. The positive thing here is that the new plastic structure can be slightly enlarged by expanding the cleared window opening.

Ordering a metal-plastic window

Before contacting a company with an order, you should think about what type of double-glazed window is right for you. It can be one-, two- or three-chamber. As for fittings and fasteners, you can also choose them yourself.

With the technical characteristics of plastic windows that will be preferable for your home, consultants from the manufacturer's firm will help you figure it out already at the time of ordering.

Some important points during installation

When installing windows on your own, you should pay attention to the following:

• metal-plastic construction must be well fixed;
• the mounting foam, which fixed the windows, must be plastered on both sides (this will prevent its subsidence and deformation of the frame in the future);
• it is very important to set the structure vertically and horizontally using a level (this will help to avoid warping).

How to install metal-plastic windows with your own hands

Before starting the installation, prepare everything you need for work:

1. Window frame with fasteners;
2. Building level;
3. Mounting foam;
4. mount;
5. Bulgarian;
6. Windowsill.

The process of preparing the window block

Preparing the window is an important stage in the installation work that you do with your own hands. If necessary, the double-glazed windows themselves and swing sashes are dismantled from the window structure. To release the double-glazed window, a chisel is used, it is very carefully necessary to pick up the glazing bead (fastening) and after a light blow on the tool it will come out of the grooves. Then the vertical fasteners are removed, top and bottom. The released glazing beads will need to be marked, sometimes their sizes can differ significantly, which will lead to the formation of gaps of several millimeters. The double-glazed window will come out of the grooves on its own if you tilt the frame a little. Gently lean it against the wall, creating a slight angle.

The fact that plastic windows are much more reliable, more durable and more economical than wooden counterparts has been proven in practice. But the main problem that people who want to replace old frames face is the high cost of transporting and installing new structures. Even a novice master can carry out the installation on his own. It is only necessary to know the nuances and tricks of the upcoming work. And it is more reasonable to install a new frame on anchor plates.

Figure 1. Scheme of the formation of anchor fasteners.

Basic principles of installation

Now there are 2 ways of mounting windows, which differ in the type of fastening unit and the method of fixing the frame to the window opening. This is a montage with and without unpacking. For self-installation of the window, it is wiser to choose the 2nd option, since it is simpler, does not require special skills, and the work does not take much time. In addition, it helps to avoid errors during installation and allows you to easily configure all fittings.

Installation without unpacking does not mean removing the glazing bead and dismantling the double-glazed window from the frame. The structure itself is attached to the anchor plates. The principle of formation of such fasteners is shown in Fig. one.

Before installing a new window, it is necessary to choose the right plates themselves. They come in 2 types: universal and designed for a specific model. That is, they take into account the requirements of a particular profile system. As a rule, such anchor plates are included with complex, non-standard designs.

Figure 2. The layout of the anchor plates during installation.

Specialized fasteners differ from universal ones in that they are equipped with ears. These elements are installed in the groove of the frame profile and fixed with self-tapping screws. Universal plates do not have special ears. They are simply fixed with bolts.

For the installation of window structures, experts recommend choosing bolts of the 4.5 * 25 type. Their body must be equipped with a metal drill. Since the self-tapping screw is attached to a reinforced structure, another type of fastening may not stand up or fix the plate not too securely.

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Window installation rules

The central plate is fixed exactly in the middle of the frame, and the side plates are fixed approximately at a distance of 20-25 cm from the edge of the structure.

As mentioned above, the method of installing a plastic window without unpacking does not require removing the glazing bead and the double-glazed window itself. This becomes possible due to the fact that the frame is fixed with anchor plates to the outside of the window opening. Otherwise, you have to form through fasteners.

Figure 3. Scheme of the installation of the ebb.

But it must be remembered that large-sized structures (with an area of ​​\u200b\u200bmore than 4 m 2) should not be installed using plates. After all, such a mount may not withstand the weight of the window. In this case, it is more reasonable to use anchor dowels. For plastic double-glazed windows of small or medium size, plates will become the most rational way of fastening.

With the help of dowels, not only large windows are attached, but also doors. Professionals believe that this installation method is the most reliable. But it has a number of significant drawbacks:

1. Installation with unpacking is difficult even for specialists. Often, with this method of installation, the double-glazed window breaks or cracks form on it.
2. Installation on anchor bolts is almost impossible to do alone.
3. Working with such fasteners requires experience and special skills.
4. Work requires more effort and time.

If you prefer this installation option, then you need to purchase dowels with a size of 10 * 132 mm. In addition, a powerful hammer drill is required for the installation of anchors. Some modern stores selling equipment for construction and repair provide a rental service. Therefore, it is not necessary to buy an expensive device. But it is easier to install the window on the plates.

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Installing a window with plates

To carry out the work you will need the following tools:

• electric hammer drill (or drill with impact function);
• screwdriver;
• hacksaw (it is wiser to use a jigsaw);
• hex key for adjusting fittings;
• anchor plates (5 pcs.);
• bolts (self-tapping screws);
• polyurethane foam in cylinders;
• silicone in cylinders (and a gun to work with it).

Don't forget to have your measuring tools ready. You will need a centimeter tape measure, a building level and a square. All necessary marks can be put with a simple pencil. As a rule, traces of it can be wiped off plastic with ordinary dishwashing detergent. When everything you need is prepared, you can start installing windows.

When installing the plates, the following rules must be observed:

1. For fixing, use only mechanical fasteners (self-tapping screws). Never use glue or foam.
2. When forming holes for fastenings, use the impact mechanism only if the slope is made of concrete.
3. The drill must be long enough. Make sure that the drill chuck does not damage the window frame. The edge can be protected by placing a piece of PVC next to the hole to be drilled.
4. If the wall is made of bricks with vertical voids, then the hole must be formed in the seam between the blocks. The solution will "hold" the mount securely enough.
5. To install self-tapping screws, it is better to use a screwdriver with a torque limiter. This will allow you to control how the fastener enters the frame and the depth of its penetration.

Following these simple principles will help you mount a window without errors that will be difficult to fix.

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Installing frame mounts

First you need to fix the anchor plates themselves. At the same time, make sure that the distance from 1 plate to another does not exceed 1 m. If you are going to install a high window, then it is wiser to put an additional mounting unit.

At the same time, the distance of the extreme elements from the corner of the window structure should be 20-25 cm. It no longer makes sense to do it. Since in this case the frame may lose stability.

Remember that the self-tapping screw with which the plate is fixed on the window must be equipped with a drill.

These bolts are usually marked "for metal". This need is explained by the fact that the window is covered with plastics only from the outside. Inside the structure is an aluminum profile.

If you want to use conventional bolts, then you need to pre-form holes in the frame. To do this, you will need a drill and a drill bit for metal. Make sure that the socket is 1 mm smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screw.

Anchor plates, if necessary, can be replaced with universal U-shaped brackets with a size of 125 mm. Such fasteners are usually used when installing gypsum boards. But it is wiser to use ready-made anchor plates.

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Window frame installation

The distance from the window frame to the opening in the wall should be 2-3.5 cm. If the gap is smaller, then it is necessary to form recesses in the slopes for installing fasteners. This is done in the following way:

1. Install fasteners on the window.
2. Mount the frame in the opening intended for it.
3. Mark the location of the plates on the wall. To do this, use a simple pencil or chalk.
4. Remove the window and select a bed with a chisel. Its depth should not exceed 2 cm, but the plate must fit tightly into it and not protrude beyond the edges.

This technique will help in the further finishing of the window opening. Since the anchor plates do not have to be “hidden” under an additional (rather thick) layer of plaster.

Next, you need to insert the frame into the opening and align its position. To do this, you will need wooden wedges, which must be prepared in advance. The thickness of the wedges should be 0.7-3 cm. The wedges must be installed only under the horizontal beams of the structure, while aligning the window vertically. Constantly check the position of the frame using the building level. In order to achieve the correct installation of the window, if necessary, several wedges of different thicknesses can be put in 1 place at once.

Then you should fix the plates on the window opening. To fix the mount on a concrete or brick slope, dowels 6 * 40 are usually used. For wooden slopes, it is wiser to take self-tapping screws designed for woodworking. In this case, fasteners with a size of 4.2 * 45 are suitable for you.

In order to prevent the frame from warping during installation, the plates are fixed in series. As a rule, start the installation from the lower left corner, and then fix the lower right. In this case, it is constantly necessary to check the correct installation using the building level. In the process of work, you can accidentally push or move the frame. And an incorrectly installed frame will make it difficult to debug the position of the valves and install fittings. Lastly, the top plates are fixed.

Plastic windows deservedly enjoy the reputation of functional, reliable, durable and aesthetic structures. They are becoming more and more popular and are confidently replacing the wooden windows that are familiar to many people.

Plastic windows have gained a reputation for being strong, durable and reliable designs.

Their additional advantages include the fact that with a great desire, almost anyone can install plastic windows on their own. And this is a big plus, because. For the installation, experts ask for quite a lot of money. In addition, having figured out how to install a plastic window, you will independently control the entire process and be able to do everything in accordance with the technology.

How to determine the size of the future plastic window

Before ordering plastic windows, you need to figure out what exactly the design should be. And this preparatory stage begins with taking measurements. When taking measurements on your own, the home master should know that there are window openings without a quarter and with it. The order of measurement of openings of two different types will also differ.

The quarter option involves taking measurements in the following order. First you need to measure the opening between the quarters in the narrowest place and add 3-4 cm to the resulting value. This will be the width of the structure. Additionally, make sure that the specific width of the future plastic window exceeds the largest distance between the vertical quarters. To determine the height of the future window, measure the distance between the lower plane of the opening and the upper horizontal quarter. So you determine the amount you need.

In the case when a plastic window is installed in an opening without the quarter mentioned above, to determine the appropriate size, you simply need to subtract 5 cm from the height and 3 cm from the width.

Additionally, determine what size the window sill and ebb should be if you plan to replace them. There should be no complications with this operation, you just need to consider the following important factors.

When determining the width of the ebb, future thermal insulation or sheathing must be taken into account. According to the standards, the ebb should protrude from the vertical wall by 5-10 cm. The width of the window sill is calculated taking into account its future functional purpose. For example, if you want to install potted flowers on it, it is better to order a wider design. In most cases, when choosing a window sill, the calculation is carried out so that the free part of this element overlaps the radiators.

The length of the window sill should be 8-10 cm longer than the width of the opening. The edges should be recessed into the slope cavity by at least 5 cm.

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Window ordering and preparation for work

At the next stage, you need to go along with the measurements received to a company specializing in the production of plastic windows. By the way, if you do not want to waste time measuring or doubt that you can do everything right, order this service from the same company. Most companies offer it for free, provided that the window is ordered from them.

In addition to the window size, you need to define the following parameters:

1. The number of chambers in a double-glazed window.
2. The number of cameras in the window profile.
3. Availability of fittings and necessary fasteners.

The consultant will talk in detail about the features of each option. You can prepare ahead of time. So, if winters in your region are not very cold, and it is not very noisy outside the window, a window with two glasses and a profile 60 mm wide will be enough. Next, be guided by the features of the climate and the environment.

For self-installation of a plastic window, you will need the following:

To install windows you will need: a hammer, a drill, a screwdriver, a building level, etc.

1. Foam gun and foam itself.
2. Drill with speed control and perforation mode.
3. Small ax and hammer.
4. Metal scissors.
5. Sharp knife, office knife is also suitable.
6. Building level.
7. Chisel.
8. Grinder.
9. Nail puller.
10. Electric jigsaw. In the absence of such, you can use a hacksaw with fine teeth.
11. Putty knife.

From materials additionally buy:

1. Multipurpose construction adhesive.
2. Wooden beam with a total length of 150-200 cm and dimensions of 2x4 cm.
3. Dowels.
4. Plastic corners and panels from the same material.
5. Self-tapping screws of different sizes. Usually used 6x40, 2x16, 2x80.
6. Solvents.
7. Mixture for plaster.
8. silicate adhesive.

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Do-it-yourself old window dismantling

At the very initial stage of changing windows, it is necessary to dismantle the old window structure.

If windows have already been installed in the room, then before starting the installation of a new window, you need to get rid of the existing structure. If in the future you do not plan to install the old window anywhere, you can not try to be careful, but caution does not hurt. Do everything so as not to get hurt and not to drop the window out. The last rule is especially relevant for apartments in multi-storey buildings, because. the window could fall on someone or damage someone else's property. And in a private house, cleaning glass will not give you any pleasure.

First, remove the opening windows and sashes. Remove all glass from the structure, having previously removed the retaining glazing beads. Take a grinder with a circle on concrete or a hacksaw. Using the tool, make cuts along the horizontal and vertical elements of the window frame.

With the help of an improvised tool - a mount, a crowbar, a hammer will do - remove the product from the opening. In some cases, when the owner wants to keep the old window, the structure can be obtained without deformation and damage. But this will take much more time and certain skills.

At this stage, both the external ebb and the window sill are dismantled. In conclusion, the window opening is thoroughly cleaned of dust and all kinds of construction debris.

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Step-by-step instructions for installing a plastic window

Gradually, you came to the main stage of work - installing a new window. This work requires careful and consistent implementation of a whole list of various activities.

First, the window is prepared for further installation. At this stage, you need to fix the mounting plates to the end of the upper and side parts of the frame. In the future, it is thanks to them that the structure will be held in the required position. Quite often, installers replace plates with hangers, which are usually used in the construction of various plasterboard structures. But when installing a plastic window, it is much more expedient to use plates. They are stronger than hangers.

The slats must be securely fixed to the end of the frame. When installing, the fasteners will have to enter the body of the metal profile of the block. And this should be done in such a way that the double-glazed window is not deformed. Fasteners are made using self-tapping screws. Select the diameter of these products, taking into account the size of the window. Standard-sized structures are usually installed using self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4 mm. For larger blocks (from 2x2 m), it is best to use larger self-tapping screws - 5-6 mm in diameter.

The fastening of the anchor strips to the end of the frame should be carried out so that they are installed in increments of 6-8 cm at a distance of 10-15 cm from the corners of the product.

After that, you need to correctly set the prepared window structure. On the surface, this procedure may seem quite simple, but take it seriously. It is best to enlist the help of an assistant at this stage. One of you will maintain the block, and the other will deal with its alignment.

Install the block in the opening and adjust its position using pre-prepared wedges. It is important to set the block strictly vertically and horizontally. At this stage, follow the recommendations:

1. Wedged the module not only from below, but also on the sides.
2. Make sure that all vertical frame members are in the same plane.
3. If there is an impost, place wedges under it as well.

Check the evenness of the installation of the block using a level. If there are slightest deviations, correct them. And only after that proceed to fixing the module. To do this, use anchor bolts or dowels to fix the anchor plates to the opening cavity. It is important that the elements are attached strictly to the building envelope. To do this, it may be necessary to remove a layer of plaster where the anchor plates are attached.

After you securely fix the module, seal the seams with foam specially designed for this job. It is important that the material is intended specifically for the installation of plastic windows. Carefully read the instructions and make sure that it can be used in the humidity and temperature at the installation site of the module.

Moisten the surface of the seam with water before applying the foam. If you need to fill an area wider than 3 cm, do it in 2 stages with a half-hour break.