Installation of windows fastening on plates. Installation of plastic windows on anchor plates. Features of measuring balcony windows

Today I will tell you about how to install 8 plastic windows and an entrance door in one day with my own hands. This job does not require special skills or expensive equipment. But, of course, there are many nuances that you should definitely pay attention to. And of course there are a few secrets on how to save money when ordering.

I used windows with a four-chamber window profile and two-chamber double-glazed windows that were optimal in terms of thermal performance, as well as a reinforced front door. By the way, it was the door that accounted for almost half of the cost of the order. And the total costs amounted to 40 thousand rubles for the set and another 4.5 thousand rubles for delivery. How to buy windows at the same price - at the end of the article.

Let's get started!

2. We have a freshly built aerated concrete house in which 8 windows and one front door need to be installed. First of all, we take all dimensions from the openings. As you remember, I made overhead quarters around the perimeter of the openings on three sides (a quarter is not needed from below - there will be a window sill there). For the quarters, I used standard 5 cm thick aerated concrete blocks, which were installed, like all masonry, on mounting foam. The depth of windows during installation should be at least 1/3 of the wall thickness. It is also worth noting that you should not try to make openings for standard window sizes - the technology for their production is automated and there is no difference in cost between a standard size or a custom-made window. The final dimensions of the window are considered taking into account the following factors. On the side and top from the frame to the wall there should be a gap of 1 to 2 centimeters on each side, which will be filled with mounting foam. From the bottom on all windows from the factory there is a stand profile 3 centimeters high, which is needed for convenient installation of the window sill. Plus, under the delivery profile, there should also be a gap of about 1 centimeter for mounting foam. In total, roughly speaking, 4 centimeters horizontally and 6 centimeters vertically must be subtracted from the internal dimensions of the opening. You should not get carried away and push the frame into the opening without a gap, because. it will be extremely inconvenient to fill in mounting foam into a gap of less than 5 mm.

3. It is important to know that opening sections greatly increase the cost of the construction of any window. Therefore, if the goal is to save money, you need to make the most of blind non-opening windows. In the case of a one-story country house, there is no problem to go outside to wash the windows, and for ventilation, you can make an opening transom (due to the design features, it is several times cheaper than a tilt-and-turn mechanism, but at the same time, its width should be much greater than its height, or rather, its height must not exceed 50 cm). The advantage of the blind section is also that you do not lose the useful area of glazing. In my case, there are 5 blind windows 60x60 cm in size, two blind panoramic windows 1.4x1.7 meters, one tilt-and-turn window 0.6x1.3 meters and an entrance door with partial glazing 0.9x2.3 meters. The above price includes only windows and door (including hinges, handles and locks). Separately, I needed to buy anchor plates, dowels, self-tapping screws, PSUL sealing tape, mounting foam, window sills and ebbs for a total of 3.5 thousand rubles.

4. We will need: a screwdriver with a drill for concrete, mounting foam with a gun, PSUL tape, mounting plates, dowels for aerated concrete and self-tapping screws. Also, the bubble level was not included in the frame. Once again I want to draw your attention to the fact that it is impossible to save on a measuring tool.

5. There are two ways to fix the window frame: through fixing with unpacking of double-glazed windows and using anchor plates. The first method requires more time and skills. In particular, you will need to carefully pull the double-glazed window out of the frame, and then install it in place. The glazing beads holding it are usually fixed very tightly and in order not to scratch the edges, a special spatula and patience will be required. Plus, if we are talking about two-handed installation, then with large windows the problem will be that the removed double-glazed window cannot be tilted, unlike the frame in which it is installed. In addition, through fastening requires precise fixation during drilling and an assistant will definitely be required. Much easier installation is carried out on mounting plates. Each such plate costs 10 rubles. They need to be installed at the rate of 1 plate for every 50 centimeters. The plate is installed by turning in the groove of the frame and fixed with a self-tapping screw with a drill (to drill through the metal frame inside the frame).

6. After that, PSUL tape is glued on the outside of the frame on all sides except for the base - a pre-compressed sealing tape. It is used when installing a window in an opening with quarters. The purpose of the tape is to protect the mounting foam from ultraviolet radiation and, consequently, destruction. In the cold season, it is easier to install windows, because. the tape expands very slowly in the cold.

7. A six-meter roll of PSUL tape costs 140 rubles. When fixing the tape on the outside of the frame, it is preferable to step back 1-1.5 cm from the edge, especially if you get deep quarters. This should be done so that when pouring the mounting foam between the frame and the wall, it does not get on the PSUL tape.

8. Now let's move on to the window opening. Its geometric dimensions are ideal, and the base ideally coincides with the level of the horizon. This happens by itself during the construction of aerated concrete if you follow the technology and level each next row of masonry to zero. I started the installation with small blind windows and they differ from the rest in that they will not have window sills. Therefore, we will not use a stand profile. As a support for the frame on the base of the opening, I use a piece of laminate with a thickness of 7 mm.

9. We apply the window and mark the place for the mounting holes. We drill and install special screw dowels for aerated concrete. It is worth paying special attention that you should not try to score them with one hit, especially if they are located close to the edge of the block - there is a risk of breaking off a piece of the block. After that, we bait the screws through the mounting plates.

10. Our next task is to set the window vertically. In the case of small windows, this will not be difficult, because. there will be no diagonal skew of the window and it is enough to measure at any point of the frame. After that, we tighten the screws on the mounting plates and take out the piece of laminate at the base. Any window must be fixed so firmly that it can be kept in the opening solely on the mounting plates. Mounting foam is used primarily for filling voids and thermal insulation, and not for mechanically fixing the frame in the opening.

11. You will have to tinker with large windows. The mass of each is more than 80 kilograms and it will not be easy to lift it into the opening alone. I built a ladder from blocks and gradually raised the window 5 centimeters up. I used 9 mounting plates for each window. 3 on each side except the bottom. Here you need to carefully monitor the verticality of the frame and apply a level in all corners. At the bottom of the large windows, there was a support profile in which the window sill will be installed. Directly under the support profile, I also placed a laminate plate, which was removed immediately after fixing the anchor plates to the wall.

12. The tilt-and-turn window is 2 times smaller, but for it I decided to use 8 anchor plates, because. an open sash will add load to the frame. On average, it takes about 30 minutes to install one window. And a very serious mistake that most people make - the protective film from the frame must be removed immediately after installation. Even if you put the windows at the beginning of the repair, the film must be removed immediately. If this is not done, then it will be more difficult to tear it off, in addition, the plastic will burn out unevenly (relevant for the outside of the frame).

13. We pass to the front door. This is a reinforced door on 3 hinges with a full frame around the perimeter. Opening inward is much more convenient than outward opening. But most people have a stereotype that the door should be opened outwards. When installing the door frame, the most important thing is to ensure a uniform fit around the perimeter. To fix the door, I used 10 anchor plates. Particular attention should be paid to the verticality of the side walls of the door frame in two planes. For reliability, the fixation of each anchor plate can be supplemented with a second self-tapping screw. As with windows, the door must be fully functional when held only by anchor plates. It should not warp when opened and should fit snugly around the perimeter when closed.

14. Now we take a gun with polyurethane foam. The presence of a pistol is mandatory. it allows you to adjust the amount of foam output. With foam, there are nuances that you definitely need to know. First - the foam is afraid of ultraviolet radiation and it must be closed from sunlight. On the outside of the window, there is a PSUL tape for this, on the inside, it is necessary to plaster the slopes or, as an option, paint over it with paint. As for the application of foam, it absolutely cannot be cut. The shell that formed on it protects the internal open cellular structure from moisture absorption and subsequent destruction. Therefore, the seam between the frame and the wall should be filled exactly to the extent that the excess does not protrude. It is important not to overdo it with the depth of the gun nozzle, because. do not forget that on the outside we have a PSUL tape and it should not come into contact with fresh foam. Approximately 5-10 minutes after filling the seams with foam, it is worth visually checking its condition and, if necessary, gently tamping (until it has frozen, this is easy to do). If work is carried out at temperatures below +5 degrees, it is necessary to use a special winter foam.

15. Next, we install the fittings and check how the windows open. If the window does not open well or jams, this is a sign that errors were made during the installation of the window. Most likely not in all corners the frame is strictly vertical. This can be corrected by adjusting the hinges and lock.

16. Done! Windows and doors must be left for a day until the foam completely hardens. And we are moving on to the final stage.

17. We take plastic window sills 20 centimeters deep. In total, I need 3 window sills: two 140 cm each and one 70 cm long. A finished window sill 150 cm long cost me only 200 rubles. We cut off the excess with a jigsaw and install it under the frame in the stand profile. It should be borne in mind that the depth of the window sills into the frame is 2 centimeters, this is important when choosing the depth. Before installation, do not forget to remove the protective film around the perimeter. We install the window sill either strictly horizontally, or with a slight (1 degree) slope from the window.

18. We close the edges with special plates, which should be glued to superglue. As a support when setting the level, you can use a trim from the window sill itself or a wooden block. After that, we load the window sill from above so that it does not lift it with mounting foam. And fill the bottom of the entire plane of the base with foam. Just as with window frames, foam expansion should be controlled and should not be cut with a knife. Just tamp it down until it hardens.

19. The final chord is the installation of ebbs. We cut it to length, fix it to the window frame with the help of self-tapping screws (having previously smeared the joint with silicone sealant), fill the base with mounting foam and load it.

20. Done! Do not forget to remove the protective film from the frames, window sills and ebbs. There is nothing complicated in installing windows and you can handle this amount of work alone. Having done this work with my own hands, I saved more than 15 thousand rubles on the installation.

And now the most interesting. The Chertanovsky office of Okna Growth decided that the discount on windows should be not only for me, but for all readers of my blog. Therefore, we made an exclusive promotion for ordering plastic windows. The minimum discount of 33% is relevant for everyone who is ready to independently measure and install plastic windows.

All details are here -

May 8, 2017
Specialization: a professional in the field of construction and repair (a full cycle of finishing work, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrics and finishing work), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

PVC window anchor plates are used as an alternative to standard anchors. This type of fastener is quite practical and easy to use, but at the same time it has its own characteristics that must be taken into account.

Below I will explain what a typical plate is, as well as an example of correct mounting using such elements.

Mounting plate features

Design and varieties

Window structures made of wood, aluminum or a metal-plastic profile can be installed in two ways - with or without unpacking (that is, with the removal of a double-glazed window).

For an inexperienced specialist, removing a double-glazed window without damaging it, and then installing it back correctly is not a trivial task, therefore, when doing the installation yourself, it is best to do without unpacking.

Yes, it's harder, but it's easier to find a physically strong assistant than a specialist in dismantling glazing beads.

In order not to damage the frame and not waste time on curing the double-glazed window, not anchors, but special plates should be used to install the structure. Such a plate has a fairly simple design:

Material- Cink Steel. High-quality products are covered with a multi-layer anti-corrosion coating, due to which they practically do not rust.
Dimensions- approximately 150 mm long (there are also longer ones, for installation in deep openings) and 25 mm wide.

metal thickness- from 1 to 2.5 mm. Standard products are made of 1.5 mm steel, and this is quite enough to securely fix typical windows in the opening. Mounting plates from 2 mm are used when fixing heavy structures from a multi-chamber profile, large-sized frames and for high-altitude installation.

Thickened modifications have two drawbacks - the high price and the complexity of bending. If 1.5 mm bends perfectly with your fingers, then 2.5 mm will have to be bent with a hammer on a template, which will also damage the galvanization.

Plates for fastening window structures are of two types:

Universal. They are just perforated strips of metal. They are used for wooden windows, and for PVC products, and for other purposes.
Specialized. They are usually equipped with latches, the configuration of which corresponds to the configuration of the protrusions on the PVC profile. At the same time, they are fixed not only through the use of fasteners, but also due to the hook on the profile.

The second variety is more reliable, so if possible, try to use it.

Terms of Use

The fixing plate for PVC window blocks provides less fixation rigidity compared to the anchor. On deaf structures, this is not so noticeable, but in windows with large and heavy sashes, the difference will be quite obvious. To compensate for it, you must strictly follow the rules for using plate fasteners:

Fixation of plates on the profile. The part must not only be snapped onto the frame, but also additionally secured with a self-tapping screw with a diameter of at least 4 mm and a length of 25 mm or more (with a drill). The self-tapping screw is twisted so that the drill enters the reinforcing profile.

When installed on a wooden frame, each element is attached to the array with at least two self-tapping screws.

Correct placement. On the sides, the plates are installed from above and below, at a distance of about 200 mm from the corners. In the upper part, fasteners should be placed either strictly in the center or opposite the impost. The optimal step for installing the plates is 500–700 mm.
Bending angle. To ensure contact with the opening, the plate is not bent at a straight line, but at an acute angle. Due to this, the transverse displacement of the frame is minimized, and the rigidity of the fixation is increased.

Fastening to the opening. Fixation of each plate in the opening is carried out using one or two plastic dowels with a diameter of 6–8 mm. The dowel is driven into a pre-drilled hole, and its wide neck should press the metal part against the plane of the opening. Final fastening is done with a locking screw with a conical point.

For installation according to all the rules for each attachment point, it is necessary to choose a bed with a depth of about 2 mm with a chisel so that the plate is flush with the opening plane. So, of course, no one does: all the same, the fasteners will be hidden by plaster or slope sheathing.

Plate mounting technology

The instruction for the installation of window structures involves working according to the following scheme:

Illustration	Stage of work
	Design preparation. We unpack the frame, remove the sashes from the hinges, install the connecting and expansion profiles. We glue mounting tapes on the frame: vapor barrier on the inside, vapor-permeable on the outside.
	Plate installation. In the selected places, we install the plates, snapping their fasteners into the grooves of the profile. We bend the plates at an angle so that when the frame is installed in the opening, they are pressed against the slopes.
	Plate fixation. We fix each plate with a self-tapping screw with a drill. Screwing it through a plastic profile into a metal armour.
	Drilling for fasteners. We install the frame in the opening and align it in three planes using mounting wedges. We correct the position of the mounting plates, pressing them tightly to the edges of the opening. We drill sockets for fasteners through the holes with a drill. The depth of the nest must be at least 10 mm greater than the length of the dowel used.
	Structure fixation. We hammer plastic dowels into the holes, pressing the plate to the base. We fix each dowel with a locking screw.

Working according to this scheme, we get the opportunity to quickly fix the frame without violating its integrity and without removing the double-glazed window. The fastener itself will subsequently be masked by the finishing of window slopes.

Conclusion

The anchor plate for plastic windows is a fairly versatile mount. But in order for the installation to ensure reliable fixation of the structure in the opening, it must be carried out in accordance with all the rules. The tips and videos in this article will help you learn these rules, as well as advice that you can get by asking a question in the comments.

PVC windows have proven themselves from the best side for a long time. They are multifunctional, reliable and durable. However, these indicators directly depend on how well the installation of the window system was carried out. There are only two ways: mounting windows on plates and unpacking method. With the first method, you do not need to remove the glazing bead and remove the double-glazed window from the frame. The window structure is fastened with anchor plates, which allows you to install the window without any special skills.

Methods for mounting a window structure

Both methods have their own nuances, positive and negative qualities.

Unpacking or fastening through the frame with self-tapping screws

This fastening method is characterized by the fact that the frame must be completely disassembled before installation: the blind and opening doors are removed, and only then the installation is carried out through the profile with self-tapping screws.

The unpacking method is mainly used when installing large-sized windows.

After installing the profile, the system will have to be assembled and adjusted again. This option is used for large windows with an area of 4 square meters for the reliability of fixing such an overall structure.

Leveling plates are installed between the double-glazed window and the profile

Here it would be appropriate to mention the straightening plates, which are installed in order to avoid contact between the edge of the double-glazed window and the window profile. Their presence will ensure uniform distribution of the weight of the double-glazed window and ventilation of the rebate space. The plates are made of plastic, the width of the element corresponds to the width of the double-glazed window.

Mounting with plates

When installing PVC windows on plates, there is no need to remove the double-glazed window

Installation of windows on plates begins with the acquisition of these same plates. There are models for universal use and made for use with a specific profile system. They are usually supplied with designs of complex shapes. Their peculiarity lies in the fact that they have special "lugs" and can be inserted into existing grooves on the surface of the frame.

Anchor plates with lugs are used with complex window structures

Plates without ears are fastened with bolts, and with ears - with self-tapping screws.. Requirements for bolts: 4.5 * 25 and the presence of a drill for metal.

Installation rules

A standard window requires at least five plates. In the central part of the frame, one plate is fixed, and on both sides - two each: one from above and one from below. At the same time, 20 cm should be retreated from the border of the frame.

5 plates are enough to mount a standard-shaped window

Installing windows without unpacking involves fixing the frame with anchor plates on the outside of the window opening. In this case, there is no need to remove the glazing bead and double-glazed window. When unpacking, fasteners are provided through the frame with a preliminary analysis of the window system into its constituent elements: sashes, double-glazed windows.

Fastening with plates is appropriate to use on windows of medium and small size, more often these are standard windows of houses and apartments. Large window systems (more than 4 square meters) are mounted on anchor dowels through the frame, since the weight of such a structure is significant and the plates will not withstand it.

Large window systems are installed using anchor dowels

With the help of anchor dowels, door frames are also fixed. In professional circles, among the masters of installing metal-plastic structures, this method of installation is considered the most reliable, but it has some disadvantages:

this type of installation is difficult even for professionals. There is a high risk of damage to the double-glazed window when removed from the frame;
this type of fixation by one person is often not possible;
this is a labor-intensive method that takes considerable time and requires the availability of appropriate skills.

When installing windows on dowels, there is a high risk of glass damage

If there is a desire to install the window yourself using this method, then you will need to buy dowels 10 * 132 mm. Of the tools, you will need a powerful puncher - this device is professional and expensive equipment that is rarely used on the farm, so it is not advisable to purchase it for the sake of installing one or two windows. You can look for a company that rents out construction equipment, usually hammer drills are the most popular product.

With the installation of a window on the plates, all these problems will not have to be solved. You just have to buy the plates themselves.

Bolt Mounting Difficulties

A few more reasons why you should not get involved with bolting during self-installation, but you should prefer plates. In order to fix the anchor bolt, it will be necessary to drill a hole in the PVC window frame. As a result, depressurization of the double-glazed unit chamber is possible.

As a result of the fact that when drilling, the reinforcement of the system is possible, problems are observed in the future when the window system freezes through.. As a result, there is excessive moisture formation indoors and the appearance of mold on the surface of the slopes.

When fixing a PVC window on the bolts, depressurization of the double-glazed window may occur

With a lack of experience, not knowing the properties of the material from which the structure is made, it may turn out that it will stretch if improperly installed. Correcting the geometry of the window frame will be almost impossible.

There are still positive qualities in attaching plastic windows to anchor bolts:

reliability of fastening of the structure - in order to dismantle it, it will be necessary to perform the reverse order of work that was during installation;
after fixing the window system, there is no need to perform additional work, as is the case with fixing with mounting foam: time for solidification, leveling, cutting, finishing;
the structure can be fully exploited immediately after it is installed;
a similar connection method is reliable and durable, and fastening materials in the form of bolts are commercially available and have an affordable price.

Features of fastening to anchor plates

This method of fastening the window system is as simple as possible and accessible to everyone.

Compared to the unpacking method, the method is considered absolutely safe for the window system, but the only drawback is that some fastening-plate elements will remain visible after installation. However, they can also be properly disguised, hidden under the slopes during their fine finishing.

Inserting a plastic window with plates is easier and safer than bolting

There is one more recommendation from experts: if the window has an opening sash, which will be used very often, then the window may fail. This fastening is recommended for moderate opening or fixed windows.

An alternative is the combined method of fastening: the upper part of the structure is mounted on plates, and the lower part is fixed with anchor bolts.

Rules for attaching a window to plates

Self-tapping screws should be used as a fixing element. Glue or foam is not suitable. The use of a percussion mechanism to create holes is only possible for concrete surfaces.

To avoid damaging the window frame with a drill, it must be of sufficient length. Additionally, you can protect the surface of the frame by placing a piece of PVC near the hole to be drilled..

Self-tapping screws are used as a fastener

When installing a window in a brick opening with vertical voids, holes for fasteners are formed in the interblock joints. To control the immersion of the self-tapping screw into the body of the frame, it is necessary to use a screwdriver with the appropriate function, which limits the torque.

The process of attaching the window to the plates

First of all, anchor plates are fastened in increments of no more than 1 meter. In order for the frame to maintain a stable position, the fastening elements must be located at a distance of no more than 25 cm relative to the corners of the frame.

The distance from the plates to the corners must be at least 25 cm

It is important to remember that the distance from the border of the window structure to the opening must be at least 2 cm.. In the case when this condition is not met, it is necessary to make recesses in the surface of the opening to accommodate the fasteners. To do this, the plates are installed on the frame, then it is installed in the opening.

On the surface of the wall with a pencil or chalk, mark the future location of the fasteners. Then the frame is taken out and a recess is made at the place of the marks with a chisel, into which the plate should enter and fix tightly. This will subsequently effectively mask the plates when finishing the slopes.

At the next stage, a window structure is placed in the opening and its position is leveled using wooden bars prepared in advance. Their thickness should not exceed 3 cm and their installation takes place only horizontally, while vertical alignment occurs, which is controlled by a level.

Vertical alignment is carried out according to the level

When the position of the frame is leveled, you can proceed to fixing the plates with dowels 6 * 40 with a concrete base or with self-tapping screws in other cases.

Gaps are filled with foam

To avoid distortion of the frame, the plates are fixed in order. First, fix the lower left corner, then the right, exercising control with a level. The top plates are fixed last. At the final stage, the seams are sealed with mounting foam.

The advantages of installing plastic windows are not only operational characteristics, but also ease of installation. A simple process, facilitated by the presence of fasteners and additional parts in the factory, the home master will be able to master and implement it himself. There are a number of nuances in it that dictate scrupulous implementation of building regulations to an independent installer. To call on assistants will need patience, accuracy and at least one person. Then the installation of plastic windows with your own hands will be performed flawlessly and practically free of charge.

Video tutorial for independent builders

Preliminary measurements and calculations

Before buying a window, it is traditional to measure the opening, taking into account whether it is with or without a quarter. Openings with a quarter are a characteristic detail of a foam concrete structure, which significantly reduces heat loss. In an opening without a quarter, you need to order a window, the length of which will be 5 cm less than the equivalent opening parameter. From the width value, you need to subtract 3 cm. Gaps along the contour of 1.5 cm are needed for foaming, an additional 3.5 cm from the bottom are needed for the window sill. GOSTs recommend leaving 2.0 cm around the perimeter.

To arrange an opening with a quarter, measurements are taken at the narrowest point. Windows are ordered by adding 3 cm to the width, the length value is not changed.

Windows are usually located not in the middle of the opening, but retreating from the outer plane 1/3 deep. But those who want to install a plastic window with their own hands may have options with an offset to either side. This circumstance must be taken into account when ordering window sills and external ebbs. To the width indicators of both elements calculated according to the location of the window, 5 cm must be added.

The location of the battery also affects the calculation of the width of the sill. It should only half cover the radiator. Plus 2 cm for the establishment under the base of the window. The minimum margin for length is 8 cm, but it is better not to skimp and add 15 cm to cut this part beautifully.

Note. Plastic side plugs are attached to the window sills and ebbs. Don't give up on them.

Frame fastening methods

The installation technology does not depend on the number of internal chambers in the metal-plastic profile, nor on the number of chambers in double-glazed windows. It depends on the material from which the walls of the building are built, and on the dimensions of the window. Based on the above prerequisites, the method and attachment devices are selected.

You can fix the plastic window structure:

mounting anchors or dowels inserted into the walls through through holes drilled in the profile;
with special toothed plates that are pressed into the profile, they do not penetrate into the wall, but are installed by surprise and fastened with screws.

The first method is recognized as the most reliable. It is used mainly for the installation of large and heavy window systems. With a through fastening, the window will firmly resist numerous shock loads that occur, for example, when operating windows with sashes that open in two different positions. In addition, the anchors passing through the frame will allow you to more accurately adjust the verticals and horizontals of the mounted structure.

However, those who want to know how to properly install plastic windows of small dimensions with blank double-glazed windows should be interested in the method of fixing with anchor plates. They will not spoil the appearance of the window, since then they will be hidden under the slopes.

Advice. For the installation of anchor plates in a concrete or brick opening, it is advisable to make small recesses so that you do not have to apply an extra leveling layer before installing the internal slopes.

Often builders combine both methods. The anchors are buried in the walls through the side elements of the frame and through the bottom profile (window base), and the top is fixed only with plates. If do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows is done in a wooden bath, anchor plates are rarely used, they can become loose. Instead of anchors, galvanized self-tapping screws are sometimes used.

Specifics of installation in a wooden structure

To a large extent, the installation process is influenced by the type of building material. If for walls made of foam concrete, hollow or solid bricks, the differences are only in the size of the anchors, then there is a special approach to openings in log cabins and in timber walls. You need to take into account not only how, but also when it is better to install plastic windows in wooden openings, and even how to do it.

It is possible to equip a wooden structure with plastic windows only after a year, preferably two years after the completion of construction. This significant break is necessary due to post-construction shrinkage. The smallest period of shrinkage and its size are for buildings made of glued laminated timber.
Installation is not carried out directly in the opening. You can only insert a window into a wooden box that protects the window structure from deformation. There should be no damage, defects and rot on the window unit. Before starting work, it must be treated with an antiseptic.
Shrinkage, however, is no longer so intense, and will occur after the installation of windows and finishes. Taking into account what, a gap of 3-7 cm is left between the upper plane of the opening and the box. The size of the gap depends on the humidity and the category of materials used in construction. The gap after the installation of the window is filled with jute insulation and closed with platbands on both sides.

There are no exact recommendations in building codes regarding the material for ebbs and window sills in wooden houses. The ebbs usually use standard ones attached to the window structure. The window sill can be both polymeric and wooden. It is not forbidden for the bottom profile to rest directly on the wooden window sill. That is, before installation, it may already be.

There is a nuance that is not specified in the regulations, but recommended by experienced builders to those who figure out how to insert plastic windows correctly. Wood that can pass evaporation will reduce the technical qualities of the mounting foam. In order for the foam “blown out” along the perimeter not to be moistened, it is advisable to equip the window block along the line of its application with a foiled polyethylene foam tape.

Plastic window installation standards

A distinctive feature of the technology is the use of mounting foam, which stiffens the frame-opening connection. The layer obtained as a result of polymerization of the foam simultaneously performs the function of insulation and additional fastening. In order for said element to retain the necessary technical characteristics, the foamed layer is surrounded by insulating layers.

When it is better to insert a plastic window, the owner decides. Winter installation is often recommended due to the immediate manifestation of all flaws. When choosing a mounting foam, it is imperative to take into account at what values of atmospheric temperature the composition will harden better. It is advised to prefer professional foam, and to work with negative thermometer readings, you need to buy a specialized nozzle.

How to perform foaming is described in detail by the manufacturer in the instruction attached to the product. Foaming usually begins from the bottom, moving upward in a circular motion. To eliminate the overspending of expensive material, the foam is blown in several steps in segments of 25-30 cm.

Advice. In order to shift the dew point, foaming is performed with unequal density. The outward facing foam layer is recommended to be made less dense than the inner one. Along the perimeter, the foam must be blown evenly, without voids and gaps.

Window opening preparation

There should be no dust, no debris, no paint residues in the opening - this is a prerequisite. Home craftsmen who want to know how to insert a plastic window into a wooden structure need to cut off the top “unreliable” layer if the installation is to be done in an already used box. The foam will adhere firmly to the top layer. If there is a suspicion that it will exfoliate over time, it is better to eliminate it.

Advice. The gaps between the frame and the opening are filled only with foam, if the distance does not exceed the limit of 4 cm. If the gaps are larger, it is better to partially fill them with cheaper material: drywall, pieces of timber, foam plastic, brick, etc.

Preparing a plastic window

First, release the frame from the sash, for which pull out the pin inserted into the upper hinge. You need to pick it up carefully from below with pliers and a screwdriver. Then, slightly lifting, remove the sash from the bottom hinge. Double-glazed windows are removed from blind windows, having previously removed the longitudinal and then transverse glazing beads. To remove glazing beads, a knife with a thickened side or a spatula is carefully inserted into the gap and slowly shifted, trying not to damage the glass.

Note. It is possible to insert a plastic window of small dimensions using mounting plates without removing the sashes or double-glazed windows. If possible, do not violate the integrity of the factory design.

Lean a double-glazed window or sash at an angle against the wall, placing it on a flat surface covered with cardboard or some soft material.

Attention. You can't lay flat! Put with a warp too. The smallest pebble under the base will cause a crack to appear.

Remove the protective film from the outer surface of the frame. If you do not remove it now, then it will be much more difficult to do it and you will have to use a building hair dryer.
Regardless of the type of mount chosen, mark the places for its installation. The step strongly recommended by the builders is 40 cm (maybe a little less), allowed by GOSTs is a maximum of 70 cm. The standards for indentation from the corners and from the impost are 15 cm. If mounting plates are used, they are pre-attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. Holes are made for anchor bolts or long self-tapping screws by placing a metal drill on the outside of the frame.

Most of the video instructions teaching how to install a plastic window yourself dictate fixing the PSUL protective tape before installation. However, craftsmen, faced with its sticky "inconvenience", convince that it is more reasonable to attach it after installation.

Direct installation process

Insert the frame into the opening, placing special plastic corners or small blocks around the perimeter to provide a technological gap. Slightly moving these spacer wedges, set the frame clearly horizontally and vertically with uniform side clearances.

Advice. It is desirable to place spacers near the point of attachment with a self-tapping screw or anchor. They will protect the frame from deformation.

Since the installation of pvc windows with your own hands can be carried out using different fasteners, differences appear at this stage.
- Screw a self-tapping screw into the opening of a wooden house through the holes in the frame. You don't need to screw it all the way in.
- On the walls of foam concrete or brick, mark the points through the holes in the frame, then remove the frame, drill holes with a drill appropriate for the material. Then return the frame to its place, “bait” the fasteners.
- There will be no need for double manipulation of the frame when mounting on anchor plates. They should simply be bent so that they adjoin the place intended for their fastening.

The final fastening is made after the control of the horizontals and verticals with a spirit level and a plumb line. It is impossible to persist with tightening, so that the frame does not begin to bend barrel-shaped. Finish screwing as soon as the hat is level with the frame. Installers advise leaving 1 mm above the surface.
Return the dismantled parts to their place in the reverse order and check the operability of the structure.
Fill gaps with foam. Close the foamed seams from the outside and from the inside with protective tapes. Outside, the insulating tape must be "drowned" in
Fill the gap under the drain with foam. Install it with a slope from the window, attach it with screws to the bottom profile.
After the polymerization of the foam, it is necessary to install a window sill. The plastic version is 2 cm under the sweet clover. To create a slight slope from the window, the space under the window sill can also be foamed.
It is desirable to make slopes on the day of installation. Maximum break 3 days after installation.

After performing all operations for 16 hours, it is not recommended to use windows so as not to violate the integrity of the assembly joints. Knowing how to install a plastic window is necessary not only for skilled owners. If the owner of country estate decides to order the services of a little-known team of installers, he also needs to study the specifics of installation in advance.

Coziness and a comfortable microclimate at home are created primarily not by interior items, furniture and textiles, but by well-installed windows. Proper installation eliminates the occurrence of drafts, the accumulation of moisture and the appearance of fungus on the slopes and walls.

The choice of fasteners is based on the material of the walls and the design of the window opening. These can be construction screws, anchor bolts, expansion metal or plastic dowels, anchor plates.

Anchor plate options

Anchor plates are used to install both metal-plastic windows and wooden double-glazed windows. Any window installation technology pursues the main goal - the redirection of all force effects (wind, window weight, building load) from the plane of the double-glazed window to the wall.

The plate is a metal bar 25-30 mm wide with guide notches along which it is bent during installation. The bar has several holes for fastening with anchors (screws, self-tapping screws) in the desired position. Plates are stamped from sheet steel with a thickness of 1.2 mm, 1.5 mm, 2 mm in various modifications and treated with an anti-corrosion zinc coating. For each profile, it is important to choose the size of the anchor plate.

Features of the use of plates and their types

Mounting on an anchor plate has no alternative when installing a window profile in an opening with a “loose” wall component - these are three-layer walls, adobe blocks, wooden beams, hollow bricks.

Anchor plates are of two types:

rotary;
fixed.

Plates with a swivel assembly are used if fastening in the opening itself is not possible. Mounting on a rotary anchor is used for arched, trapezoidal and polygonal windows.

The usual fixed anchor is designed to fix the window in the opening, but the angle of attachment can also vary.

Anchor plate advantages

The ability to quickly create a strong and, at the same time, elastic window-to-wall connection with the help of a plate is the main advantage of this type of fastening. Seasonal and daily temperature deformations of the window do not affect the stability of the installation of the anchor plate.

Other advantages of anchoring a window onto a plate:

There is no need to disassemble the profile and drill through it;
choice of attachment point;
ease of leveling the window according to a plumb line or level;
lack of large mounting holes;
exclusion of ingress of natural moisture inside the profile and seam;
when dismantling the window, the plates are easily unscrewed, unlike anchor bolts;
the window can be reinstalled;
low cost of fastening;
window installation time is halved compared to installation on bolts.

The advantages of installing windows on anchor plates are so noticeable that they are used everywhere when working with any wall materials.

The only case where this type of installation may not be acceptable is the installation of very heavy balcony sections to the full height of the wall, or the placement of several rows of windows directly on top of each other. In this case, the planned load on the fasteners may be too high and the anchor plates should be noticed on the anchor bolts.

Installation of PVC windows on anchor plates

Installation of PVC windows or balcony blocks begins with the calculation of the operating load. The type of opening-closing windows affects the support force, the total traction effect on the hinge mechanism and determines the required number of plates for installation. Having prepared all consumables, proceed to the installation:

Remove the transport film from the outside of the window frame;
Install the toothed "legs" of the anchor plate into the special protruding parts on the profile. Use a self-tapping window screw as an additional fastener.
Screw the plates along the perimeter of the entire profile, keeping distances from the frame corners of 150-200 mm. The further spacing of the plates is 500-700 mm.
Bend the plates at the notches in such a way that the first fold is at the junction with the frame, and the second at the attachment to the window opening.
Place the frame on hard pads. They should be not only in the corners, but also under each section of the window. Secure the frame vertically with wedges.
Using a level, fine-tune the frame in all planes and firmly fix the plates in the opening with two anchors.
Moisten the installation seam with water using a spray bottle.
Insulate the mounting joint internally with polyurethane foam. Consider its expansion properties so that it does not come out on the profile itself. The following materials are also suitable for internal insulation: building sealant (mastic), vapor barrier sealing tapes based on butyl material.
Creation of an external insulating layer: finishing slopes with plaster or lining with dense protective materials (stone tiles, facade bricks).