Installation and installation of the toilet. Tricks when installing a toilet that will make installation much easier. Video - Installing a hanging toilet

In cases where there is a desire to save on the services of specialists or just learn a new building skill, information on how to properly install a toilet will come in handy.

What you need to install

Before you install the toilet with your own hands, you need to take care of the availability of a number of tools:

• perforator or impact drill;
• drill with a diameter of 8-10 mm (depending on the diameter of the dowel for fixing the toilet bowl);
• tile drill (if installation is done on a tile or ceramic plate);
• wrench;
• set of wrenches;
• a hammer;
• sealant (either in a special tube or together with a sealant gun);
• screwdrivers (flat or Phillips, depending on the design of the toilet);
• transitional cuff made of rubber 123 × 100 (if you need to connect to a cast-iron socket);
• a set of fasteners for installing a toilet bowl (if it is not included in the kit);
• rags and a container for draining the remaining water from the old toilet.

Before you install the toilet, you need to do some preparatory work. For example, you need to decide how exactly to connect the new toilet bowl with the sewer socket. The following options are possible:

• Corrugated cuff. This method is the most economical, but in this case the toilet cannot be attached close to the socket. This matters if the bathroom is small.
• Straight cuff. It firmly and hermetically connects the bowl of the structure with the socket of the sewer system.
• Eccentric cuff. It is convenient if the connection centers of the system and the socket are displaced.

Next, it is advisable to replace the old flexible water supply. The choice of liner is based on the distance from the connections on the cold water pipe to the connection of the toilet filler mechanism. To this length should be added 15-20 cm.

If necessary, you need to pre-purchase adapters for threads at the junctions of flax or FUM tape.

In the case when a wooden stand has been preserved under the old toilet, it must be removed. A nail puller or puncher will help with this. The resulting void can be sealed with a cement composition, preferably a quick solidification, and a spatula.

Removing an old toilet

• First you need to turn off the water. Disconnect the flexible hose, flush the toilet.
• Then you need to unfasten the drain tank. You can carefully, or you can use a hammer (in case the old toilet is no longer needed).
• You can quickly remove the toilet bowl with a hammer and a perforator.

Carefully, so that the fragments do not fall into the sewer system, use tools at the place where the toilet bowl is attached to the floor and the junction of the device with the sewer. Then the old bowl must be removed, pouring out the water that remains.

Wood plank removal and floor leveling

• After the old toilet is removed, you need to thoroughly clean the sewer socket from dirt and rust. Install a rubber transitional cuff 123×100 into the socket, pre-coated with sanitary sealant.
• Then plug the hole with a rag so that odors do not interfere with further work.
• Next, you need to remove the wooden board and fill the resulting void with repair staff.
• Align with a spatula to the level of the floor.

Marking and installation of dowels

• Put the bowl of the new toilet bowl in the planned place. Mark out through the holes in the bowl on the floor so you can see where to drill. The holes in the toilet bowl are located at an angle, in which case you also need to drill at an angle.
• After marking, the toilet can be removed. Next, you need to drill holes in the previously marked places and insert the dowels.

Toilet cistern attachment

• In accordance with the instructions that came with the toilet, you need to install the fittings for the drain tank. There are some peculiarities in this procedure.
• Tighten the drain and fill valve nuts by hand while holding the valve itself, thereby preventing it from turning and damaging the gasket.
• The valves must be installed so that during operation the moving elements do not touch each other and the walls of the tank.
• In case of uncertainty, a sanitary sealant should be used as the walls of the tank and gaskets.

The drain mechanism is available in a collapsible type to facilitate the installation process.

Installing the toilet bowl

• The connecting cuff is attached with a petal part to the adapter cuff 123 × 100, inserted into the socket pre-treated with a sealant. The outlet of the toilet bowl is inserted into the adapter sleeve until it stops.
• It is necessary to turn the cuff so that the toilet bowl assumes an even position, and all the holes of the fasteners coincide.
• The bowl is fixed to the floor surface with screws with plastic washers. In cases where the floor surface is uneven, use spacers made of pieces of plastic to level the toilet before finally tightening it.

Connecting the bowl and drain tank

Before you install the drain tank on the bowl of the structure, you need to put a gasket between them. For reliability and to avoid displacement of the gasket, it is better to glue it to the bowl with sealant in advance.

After attaching the tank to the bowl, tighten the screws evenly. After that, install the tank lid and the drain button. Then fix the flexible eyeliner.

System Function Check

At the end of all work, you need to check - draw water into the tank and make a test drain. The amount of drained water can be adjusted, how to do this is written in the instructions.

Inspect all components for any leaks. If they occur, check the tensile strength and, if necessary, disassemble the assembly, re-treat with sealant, then tighten properly.

If the cause is a defective part, purchase a new part and replace it.

Install the toilet seat and fill the gaps between the toilet and the floor surface with sealant.

Doing such work with your own hands is not difficult if you follow the above recommendations and rules. Good luck!

How to install a toilet with your own hands - step by step instructions with Video

What is needed to install a toilet. Step-by-step instructions for dismantling the old and installing a new toilet with your own hands

How to install a toilet with your own hands

From our article you will learn how to install a toilet bowl with your own hands. This is a fairly simple operation, provided that you are able to shut off the cold water supply, and the supply and sewer pipes do not need major repairs. In this case, we will install a toilet bowl with a lower cistern. This option is easier, since most of the weight of the tank in this case falls on the toilet. When installing a toilet with an upper tank, you will need reliable fasteners to support the weight of the latter (this is not a problem for brick walls, but in the case of walls made of hollow materials, you will have to resort to special tricks).

1. If during the repair undertaken in the bathroom the floor height has changed somewhat, it is necessary to compensate for the difference with the help of an eccentric cuff - the so-called corrugation for the toilet bowl (for sewage) and a flexible hose (for supplying cold water). Large height changes will require the skills of a professional plumber.

2. If the floor in the bathroom is not even enough, it is better to install the toilet bowl on silicone sealant. Small wooden/plastic wedges can also be used, but sealant is essential here as it distributes the weight of the toilet evenly.

3. If the sewer pipes go down, through the floor, and not through the walls, you will need a rectangular elbow or a flexible corrugated cuff. This is not the only difference, but the main one.

Assembly and installation of the toilet bowl

2. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for assembling the inside of the tank. The sequence of actions depends on the type of drain system used in the model you have chosen.

3. Make sure all parts are securely fastened, but do not overtighten the bolts and screws.

4. In most cases, bolts are sold with the cistern to attach it to the toilet. Be sure to put washers and rubber cones on before inserting bolts into their holes.

Installation of a toilet bowl with a cistern installed

6. Insert the corrugated cuff (corrugated extension) into the sewer pipe, making sure that it fits snugly. In our example, a simple straight connecting cuff is required. (When connecting the toilet bowl to a cast-iron pipe, you will need a transition cuff with a diameter of 110 mm. See photo. It must be liberally lubricated with silicone sealant and inserted into the cast-iron pipe, which was previously cleaned of dirt, see photo. Only after that you can insert a corrugated plastic cuff into it.

7. Move the toilet to the sewer pipe. Make sure that its outlet is flush with the installed nozzle. Most likely, the way it is. But if not, and the offset is quite large, then you will need to use an eccentric bellows.

8. Gently place the toilet in its place by placing the cuff over the outlet.

9. Make sure the tank is level with a spirit level along the back wall. Through the back wall of the tank, mark the places on the wall where you have to make holes for fixing it.

10. Do the same with the toilet itself: check its levelness with a spirit level and mark the mounting holes on the floor, trying to be as accurate as possible.

11. Mark the edges of the base of the toilet with a pencil on the floor. Knowing the exact position of the “leg” will come in handy when you finish the preparatory work and proceed to the final fixing of the toilet.

12. Move the toilet away from the wall. Drill holes for mounting the tank, focusing on the marks on the wall. Select (taking into account the material of the wall) and insert the dowels.

13. Drill holes in the floor at the points you marked. When drilling ceramic tiles, you will need a hammer drill and a concrete drill bit. At the beginning of drilling, the pressure on the punch should not be large; after passing through the tile layer, the pressure can be increased. Insert the dowels into the holes. If the floor is wooden, as in our case, they are not needed.

14. Before installing the toilet in place, apply silicone sealant to the floor along the line marked with a pencil, corresponding to the border of the base of the “leg”.

15. Put the toilet in its place. Screw the cistern to the wall by inserting washers between the screw heads and the cistern wall. Don't overtighten the screws.

16. Screw the base of the toilet to the floor. In this case, the same rules apply: firstly, do not forget about the plastic washers, and secondly, do not tighten the screws too tight.

Connecting the water and finishing the installation

17. Connect the tank to the cold water pipe. With a high probability, you will need a flexible connecting hose for this. The connection point depends on the position of the inlet pipe on the new tank.

18. Turn on the water by opening the shut-off valve and check for leaks at all connections. Also check the tightness of the junction of the toilet with the sewer and coat all connections with silicone sealant.

19. Install the toilet seat as designed. If necessary, adjust the seat to exactly match the shape of the toilet.

20. Apply silicone sealant around the base of the toilet. Smooth out any unevenness with a damp sponge, achieving a neat look.

How to install a toilet with your own hands - step by step instructions Photo

Follow our step-by-step instructions and you will learn how to install a toilet bowl with your own hands and what is needed for this.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation

If this is your first time thinking about installing a toilet, this article is for you. And it’s better if you have time to read it before you go to the store for a new “faience friend” or before the start of finishing in the toilet room.

The fact is that modern toilet bowls are so different that they have a very different type of attachment, flush, sewer supply, etc. So, ideally, planning which toilet you have to mount with your own hands should begin already at the design stage of the toilet.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation

And what to do if there is an old “throne” in the toilet - how to remove it, avoiding the global flood? We will also talk about this in the article. Features of the installation process, a step-by-step guide and a few tips from the masters will help you save money and mount the toilet with your own hands without any problems.

Planning space in the toilet room

It is impossible to plan a comfortable toilet without taking into account the features of the toilet bowl that is to be installed there.

To understand what exactly needs to be done, you need to know:

• whether it is necessary to dismantle the toilet bowl, which has served its purpose and carry out major repairs in the toilet (including cladding, repair and supply of sewer communications and floor screed);
• what are the dimensions of the new plumbing - will it not clutter up the space and will it allow your door to open quietly;
• what mount your future toilet has;
• what is the way to flush the toilet;
• At what height do you want to install plumbing.

If you know the answers to all these questions, it remains only to dismantle the old one (if necessary) and install a new toilet bowl.

Recall that floor plumbing is divided into several types. It differs in form and its device.

The drain tank can be combined with the toilet bowl and independent (wall-mounted).

Toilet bowls are attached to the floor: on 2 and 4 attachment points, on the corners.

Down with the old toilet!

Surely your toilet, which needs to be dismantled, is not wall-mounted, which means that it is attached to the floor. It will be possible to remove it from the toilet in just 7 steps.

1. Turn off the water and drain it from the tank in the toilet.

Before breaking the toilet, you must turn off the water supply and unscrew the tank

Removing an old toilet

If the neck is disconnected from the pipe, and the toilet is firmly glued to the floor with mortar, then you need to take a chisel and carefully chip the pedestal from the mortar, you can use parts

If there are no plans for an old toilet, and you are seeing him off on his last journey, then after swinging it, you can split it with a sledgehammer so that it is not difficult to carry it out. You will also have to do the same if the fasteners of the old plumbing are cemented.

After dismantling the toilet, evaluate the condition of the pipes in the room. Cast iron create many problems; before installing new plumbing, it is recommended to change them to plastic. Also, plastic pipes greatly facilitate the process of installing a toilet bowl and distributing sewer drains (by the way, you can also read about installing plastic pipes with your own hands on our website).

Self-installation of plumbing "step by step"

For normal operation, the toilet bowl needs a flat, lined or specially prepared surface of the walls and floor.

1. First, we connect the drain of the toilet bowl with the help of a corrugation to the outlet of the sewer pipe-riser. You can also use a hard tube. The best option is if the toilet drain enters the riser without extension corrugations, etc. To seal the drain, we use a ring with a rubber border. It is important to consider that rubber does not tolerate cement and similar coatings on its surface. But the sealant is quite suitable.

Toilet installation - cuff

We take the cuff and apply silicone sealant and install it in the pipe

Then we take a corrugated pipe and also apply silicone sealant

We install the corrugation in the pipe

Then we carefully move the toilet bowl and install its outlet into the corrugated pipe seal

To prevent water from getting under the toilet during mopping, this place can be sealed with silicone sealant

We fix on the floor: 3 types of fasteners

1. The first option for floor installation is anchors embedded in the screed. During the pouring of the floor, long anchors are fixed at the place where the toilet bowl and its fasteners will be located. After the screed dries and the floor is finished, a toilet bowl is attached to the anchor. This is the most difficult method of fastening, since it is difficult to install the anchors so evenly that the toilet stands on them without problems. It often happens that inexperienced builders choose too short anchors, on which it is then impossible to screw nuts. The anchor embedded in the floor must be at least 7 cm above the finish surface in order to screw the toilet to it. Gaskets are required under all nuts so that the surface of the toilet does not crack.
2. The second option for securely fixing the toilet bowl on the surface during the overhaul of the toilet is installation on a wooden base. The main thing is that the board strictly matches the size of the base of the toilet bowl. When pouring the floor, the board is prepared by hammering nails into it. Then it is laid in the solution with nails down. After the screed has dried and the room has been finished, the toilet bowl, previously planted on a layer of epoxy resin, is screwed to the board using ordinary screws. Under them, rubber or polymer gaskets are also needed.

You can fix the toilet with a wall tank without screws, for one resin. True, with this method of fastening, it is first necessary to clean the surface of the tile so that the glue holds better. When using "epoxy" it is important to allow freshly installed plumbing to dry properly and gain a foothold on the floor surface.

Fixing the toilet to the wall

How to install the installation

Wall hung toilets are being used more and more. Their installation is not much more complicated than usual (by the way, you can read about installing a toilet bowl with your own hands on our website). A wall-mounted toilet, as its name implies, will not have contact with the floor surface. It is suspended using a metal frame, which is attached to the load-bearing wall itself. The cistern and pipes of the toilet in this case are behind a false plasterboard wall. If the mounted plumbing has an open tank, then it will be possible to fix it on the wall itself, but then the sewer pipe should be inside the wall. The same anchors embedded in the wall or in the supporting frame will hold the structure.

Installing a toilet on a pedestal

After fixing the toilet bowl on the wall or on the floor, it remains only to assemble the toilet bowl. A tank is placed on the base, already securely fixed, or a pipe is connected to it from a tank hung on the wall.

Installing a toilet on a pedestal

It remains only to check if the toilet is working, and if there are any leaks. We turn on cold water, wait until the tank is filled, adjusting the filling level. We set up the locking mechanism according to the instructions. Rinse and see if it flows from the drain.

The last step is to screw the toilet seat. But here you, for sure, can already handle it yourself.

1. Before buying plumbing, first decide on the type of drain that suits you. If you do not plan to change the supply of the sewer riser, you must choose the same type as in the toilet that has worked out. Remember: no adapters will help to qualitatively connect the toilet bowl to the type of outlet that is not suitable for it.
2. Do not leave the choice and purchase of a toilet bowl for the final moment of repair: it is better to prepare a place in the toilet in advance to facilitate the installation of plumbing.
3. Invest in nickel-plated bolts and anchors to secure the toilet to the floor or wall. They do not rust, which means that ugly streaks and sticking of bolts are excluded.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation was successful

Do-it-yourself toilet installation - step by step instructions!

Learn how to install a toilet bowl with your own hands. Step by step instructions, tutorials, photos + videos and the best tips from professionals!

How to install a toilet yourself

With "straight" hands, most of the housework can be done independently. This category of work includes the installation of a toilet bowl. Knowing the sequence of actions, installation or replacement can be done by hand.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation is a task of medium complexity

Types of toilets

In this article, we will consider not the features of the flush or the shape of the bowl, but those design features that determine the list of installation work.

According to the installation method

The toilet itself consists of a sanitary bowl and a drain tank. The bowl can be floor mounted or suspended. If the bowl is suspended, then the tank is concealed - built into the wall. In the case of a floor bowl, there are three options for fixing the tank: on a special shelf on the bowl (compact), separate, connected with a flexible hose, in an installation (frame hidden in the wall).

Typical sizes of toilet bowls of different designs

The advantage of a floor-standing toilet with a conventional flush tank is ease of installation. It can be installed without starting repairs. The disadvantage is that compared to the hanging one, it takes up more space, looks more heavy. Accordingly, for suspended models, installation is difficult - it is necessary to fix the supporting structure - installation - in the wall. Perhaps it is only during the repair.

Release to the sewer

The choice of toilet for release into the sewer depends on the location of the sewer pipe. They happen:

• with horizontal outlet;
• oblique release;
• vertical.

Types of outlets (outlets) of the toilet bowl

If the pipe is in the floor, a vertical outlet is optimal. If the exit is in the floor, but is close to the wall, the oblique toilet is most convenient. The horizontal version is universal. Using a corrugated pipe, it can be connected both to the wall and to the floor.

Installing a toilet bowl with a compact cistern (floor version)

A toilet bowl, a tank, a drain device and a float are usually brought from the store separately. Before installing the toilet, everything except the float must be assembled.

What does a floor-standing toilet with a "compact" cistern consist of?

The process begins with the installation of a drain device. It comes assembled, you only need to install it in a hole in the bottom of the tank. A rubber gasket is placed between the drain device and the tank.

We install the drain mechanism inside the tank, placing a pre-rubber gasket

On the reverse side, the supplied plastic washer is screwed onto the pipe. It is tightened by hand, then - using a key, but very carefully, since it is easy to break the plastic. To prevent the drain device from spinning, it must be held by hand.

Tighten the nut carefully

The next step is to install the mounting screws on the tank. They are also included in the standard package. These are long thin screws made of galvanized or stainless steel. They are inserted into two small holes at the bottom of the tank, rubber gaskets are put on, then washers, and only then nuts are screwed on.

Install the mounting screws on the tank

Before installing the tank on the toilet bowl, a gasket (included) is placed under the tank. To prevent odors from leaking out of the sewer, it must be “planted” on a sealant. First we coat it on one side, put it on the toilet bowl, coat it on the other, put the tank.

Lubricate the gasket with silicone, put on the toilet

Lubricate on the other side

We install the tank on the shelf of the bowl, passing the screws into the corresponding holes. We put washers, nuts on the screws from below, tighten them. At the same time, make sure that the tank is level.

Installing the bowl on the bowl

Next, we put a float - a device for controlling the water level in the tank. There are two holes in the top of the tank. Here we insert the device into one of them. It is mounted on the side from which the water supply will be connected.

We put a float in the tank

We wind a little flax on the outlet pipe, coat it with sanitary paste, install a corner (brass or stainless). Do not tighten the connection strongly, do not clog that the pipe is made of plastic.

Floor mounting

The toilet is almost assembled, you can put it in place. The toilet bowl is connected to the sewerage by means of a corrugated adapter. At the ends, it has rubber seals that fit snugly into the pipes and onto the toilet outlet.

Corrugation for connecting the toilet to the sewer

If the sewer pipe is plastic, the corrugation is simply inserted all the way. If the riser is cast iron, and not yet new, so that the smell does not seep through the microcracks, the pipe is cleaned to metal, washed and dried. A layer of sealant is applied around the circumference on a dry, clean metal (a little more in the lower part), then a corrugation is inserted. For greater certainty, you can go through the sealant on the outside of the joint.

In order for the installation of the toilet bowl on the old cast iron to be airtight, a layer of sealant can be laid under the corrugation

In any case, we insert a corrugation into the sewer pipe.

We insert the corrugation to the stop

The second end of the corrugation is put on the outlet of the toilet bowl. This is the connection of the toilet to the sewer. Everything is so simple. There is only one caveat. So that it can be removed later, the corrugation outlet and the outlet of the toilet bowl are lubricated with soap moistened with water, only then the bell is put on. If this is not done, it will be problematic to remove the toilet without damaging the corrugation. But you still have to drill holes for fasteners. It will be much more convenient to remove, rather than trying to move a partially fixed device.

Putting the corrugation on the outlet, we expose the toilet as it will stand. Having installed the lid on the tank, we check that there is a place for it. Next, you need to sit down, check the comfort of use, if necessary, correct the position. Then they take a pencil or marker, inserting it into the holes in the sole, mark the places for installing fasteners.

Mark places for fasteners

Having removed the toilet bowl, holes for the dowels are drilled in the marked places. If the kit comes with plastic fasteners, do not use it - it will break in a few days. It is necessary to immediately put powerful dowels.

If the toilet is installed on a tile so that it does not crack, it is better to pierce the glazed surface. They take a self-tapping screw, mark it, hit it with a hammer several times. This is what is called "pinching". Then they take a drill or a puncher and drill a tile, turning off the shock mode. After the tile is passed, you can turn on the perforation mode.

Drilling holes for fasteners

We put plastic plugs from dowels in the holes. They must be in the same plane with the floor. If there is a thicker edge, cut it off with a sharp knife.

We sweep the floor, removing dust at the installation site of the toilet. We put it in place, insert the dowels into the holes, twist them with the appropriate key. It is necessary to tighten the bolts alternately on one side, then on the other. Tighten until the toilet becomes firmly, without play.

The final touch is the connection to the water supply. Connect the outlet of the water pipe to the tap installed on it with the corner on the tank, which was connected earlier. This requires a flexible hose. At its ends there are union nuts (American), so there will be no problems with fastening. Tighten well, but without fanaticism.

How to install a wall hung toilet with installation

To install hanging toilets, the outlet of the sewer pipe must be located near the wall. The specific distance from the wall is indicated by the manufacturer, but it should be small - from the far edge of the order of 13-15 cm. If the exit is from the floor, there is a solution - a special overlay with which the drain is transferred closer to the wall.

The installation of a wall-hung toilet begins with fixing the stops to the wall to the installation frame. They are attached two at the top and at the bottom. With their help, the distance to the wall is adjusted, the frame rises and starts.

Install top stops

The upper stops are in the form of rods, adjustable with a socket wrench and a screwdriver. The bottom stops are more like plates, they are also adjusted with a socket wrench but with a side head.

Bottom stops and height adjustment

The assembled frame is attached to the wall, its center is exposed above the middle of the sewer outlet. The mark on the frame rises or falls to the height required by the manufacturer (there is a mark on the frame, also indicated in the passport, usually 1 meter).

Align height and away from wall

Using a bubble level, the horizontal and vertical installation of the wall-hung toilet installation is checked.

By adjusting the height of the stops, an equal distance from the wall, set by the manufacturer, is set. How convenient it is to do, look at the photo.

The specified distance to the wall is set

The exposed frame must be fixed to the wall. In appropriate places put marks with a pencil or marker, drill holes. They are equipped with plastic housing dowels. Most of the hanging toilets are imported, and they recommend planting the dowel bodies on the sealant. Some of the sealant is squeezed into the drilled hole, a dowel is inserted. Then, before installing the fastener itself, the sealant is applied to the plastic case.

In a fixed installation, you can put connecting elements - branch pipes, couplings. They are all included and simply snap into place.

Pipes and connectors are installed

Pipes from the tank and sewerage are installed

Next, metal rods are installed on which the toilet bowl will be held. They are screwed into the corresponding sockets, silicone seals are put on top (in the lower photo these are two rods above the sewer outlet).

Toilet holders are installed, the sewer pipe is fixed

The sewer pipe extends to the desired distance, is fixed in a predetermined position with a bracket. It covers the pipe from above, is inserted into the groove until it clicks.

Next, water is connected to the tank. Open the tank lid (it is latched), the plug on the side surface is removed. Right or left - depends on where you have water. A corrugated pipe is inserted into the opened hole, the counterpart is inserted from the inside, everything is connected with a union nut. Tighten without applying excessive force - it's plastic.

Connecting the installation to the water supply

A tee is installed inside the tank, a pipe (usually plastic) is connected to the desired outlet. They do this with the help of an adapter and an American.

Water pipe connection

A hose from the tank is connected to a special tee inlet. It is flexible, in a metal braid. Tightened with a cap nut.

Connect the hose from the tank

Install the cover in place. In principle, the installation for the toilet is installed. Now we need to close it. To do this, make a false wall of moisture-resistant drywall. It is recommended to put two sheets, but you can use one. Drywall is attached to the installation frame and to the mounted profiles.

Fixing the false wall to the installation frame is mandatory

The toilet bowl is put on the pins, its outlet goes into the plastic socket. The connection is tight, no additional measures are required. This completes the installation of the toilet with the installation.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation: floor-standing, hanging with installation, instructions with photos, videos

Self-installation of the toilet will save a substantial amount of money. With your own hands, you can install both a floor model and a pendant one, with an installation.

Installing a toilet is a responsible process that is best left to the professionals. However, this is not always possible, so knowing how to install this important item in the toilet room yourself will not be superfluous. At first glance, the procedure is optimally simple. You just need to connect the toilet to the pipes with water, sewage and securely fasten. And how this whole procedure actually looks like will be discussed below.

Process features

In fact, the correct installation of the toilet, of course, is a complicated matter. However, if you understand its technology, you can install a toilet bowl with high quality and save on plumbing services. At the same time, it will turn out to grow in their own eyes. Recently, the number of toilet models has increased significantly, if you wish, you can find one that will not seem difficult to install.

Together with them, in addition to the traditional mounting method, other mounting methods appeared. For example, now the method when the tank is hidden in the wall has become especially popular. Wall-mounted toilet bowls have also become widespread, which are mounted directly on the wall, completely freeing the floor. Such models look very interesting, they are no more difficult to mount than models with floor mounts.

Also, the installation of the toilet bowl is affected by the type of attachment, flush, supply of the sewer pipe, its dimensions. Particular attention is paid to the evenness of the surface on which it is planned to install plumbing. That is why it is better to think over in advance the model of the toilet bowl and the type of room in which you will have to mount it yourself. This is especially true for toilets and bathrooms in new buildings. It is worth considering the size of the room so that the installation is easy and correct.

When installing toilets in apartments or houses where there is already a toilet, you should also consider dismantling the old product, as well as repairing it. Another point that you should think about in advance is the availability of all the necessary tools, including a puncher, screwdrivers, dowels. When purchasing a new toilet, you should carefully inspect the bowl and tank before packing it. The product must be free of chips and cracks. They can cause leakage of a new product.

Particular attention should be paid to the internal cavities, as well as the release of the toilet bowl. It will not be superfluous to clarify what the complete set consists of. For example, when buying in a store, you should ask the seller if there is a seat in it, fasteners to the floor or wall. If something is missing, it is better to immediately purchase all the missing items. This will allow installation without any problems.

Types of structures

There are a lot of types of toilet bowls, as well as the parameters by which they are divided. This often leads to customer confusion. From all this variety, you need to choose one toilet bowl. At the same time, it is desirable that it fits perfectly into the toilet room.

By size, toilets are divided into:

• universal, the most widespread model;
• children's, which, with their small size, are very convenient for children;
• for people with disabilities, different designs.

According to the type of installation, toilet bowls are of two types.

• Floor, the fixation of which is carried out to the floor. This type is divided into corner and wall.
• Suspended. Such models are mounted on the wall with the help of special fasteners (installation). They are called wall-mounted or built-in.

An important point is the compatibility of the wall-mounted toilet with the installation. The dimensions of the installation should be selected based on its location. In addition, the installation allows you to install not only a toilet, but also a bidet.

Installations are:

• block, which are mounted only on a load-bearing wall;
• framed, which can be mounted anywhere.

By attaching the toilet to the sewer, several separate types are also distinguished.

with horizontal outlet

Such toilets are connected to the sewer only at an angle of 95 degrees. Such models are especially convenient when the sewer pipe passes through the wall. However, with the help of a corrugated pipe, the toilet bowl can be equally easily attached to the floor. This species originally received its distribution in Europe, and not so long ago with us.

with vertical

These designs are the most common, behind this name are the most common toilets that are connected to the sewer socket in the floor. Most often, such models are found in stalinkas built in the middle of the twentieth century.

With oblique

Such toilets are attached to the sewer pipe at an angle of 45 degrees. These designs can be seen in all the houses that were built at the end of the last century.

Flushing the toilet is one of the highlights.

According to how the drain tank is installed, toilet bowl designs are divided into three types.

• Hinged, which is mounted on the wall.
• A cistern mounted on a toilet. This model can be called traditional and immediately recognizable. It is easy to install from above.
• A hidden cistern is built into the wall, thereby freeing up the room and making it even more attractive.

According to the location of the drain hole, plumbing products are divided into two types.

With rear drain

In such models, water from the tank flows down the back wall of the bowl. The advantage of such a drain is that the flow of water is stronger, which means it cleans the bowl better. It is worth considering that the back wall will always be dirtier, and there will be more splashes on the front. It is necessary to clean the bowls of such toilet bowls exclusively using household chemicals.

With circular

Water enters the toilet bowl through several holes, so the entire surface is washed more evenly. Of course, in these models, cleaning the rear wall is worse, but in general, there is less splashing.

The supply of water to the tank can be in different ways and also affects the installation of the toilet. It comes in the bottom, side and back.

By the way the water mirror is located, three types can be distinguished at once.

• Funnel-shaped, when the mirror of water is exactly in the middle of the bowl. This model has 1 significant drawback in the form of water splashes during its use.
• With a shelf, it is distinguished by the presence of a visor in front of a water mirror. This design leads to the spread of unpleasant odors.
• With a sloping back wall, the water surface comes to the fore, minimizing splashes and unpleasant odours. Experts recommend opting for this particular model.

According to the drain in the upper cisterns, toilet bowls can be divided into three main types.

Bell

The bell is a cast-iron tank, which is attached to the toilet with a steel pipe. Inside it is made of a lever, a chain, a bell (a cast-iron cork with a gasket at the bottom). Rising, the bell passes water into the drain pipe. As soon as the chain is released, the cork drops. Among the shortcomings of this model, one can note the need to replace the gasket every few years. Another unpleasant moment is the accumulation of rust and deposits that impair draining.

Corrugation

The corrugation works when a rope is pulled on a lever. The corrugation bends, the water is sucked in. While the rope is released, the bell of the corrugation is tilted until all the water in the tank is completely drained. Of the problems with this design, it is worth noting a leak at the base of the corrugation, which forms after several years of use.

Pear

The pear is characteristic of all modern drain systems. The principle of operation of the design is based on the fact that the lever or button is pressed, the stem rises, the pear leaves the saddle, water flows. Despite the variety of saddle and pear shapes, the disadvantages of this design are common. The most basic problem is the reduction of rubber elasticity, which leads to leakage. Another disadvantage is related to the contamination of the seat with deposits, which also causes leakage.

Toilets can be classified according to the material of the seat(plastic), case material (san faience, san porcelain, metal, natural stone), design and even color. Some models are equipped with a microlift. This is one of the handy features.

Location selection

The layout of the toilet room should begin with the choice of a toilet bowl. It is necessary to take into account all its features. Only after that it is worth proceeding to further actions. Of course, if there is an old toilet, it must be dismantled. Most likely, the room will still have to be overhauled. And it includes updating the sewer line, floor screed, cladding.

Before installation, you need to estimate the dimensions of the new plumbing fixture. This will allow you to understand how best to place it: in the center of the room or closer to the wall. It may be better to mount it on the wall or move it close to the bathroom. It is necessary to determine the height at which it is better to install the toilet. Today, modern models are able to satisfy any whim in this regard.

The unconventional location of the sewer pipe can be a difficult task. Therefore, it is worth foreseeing the best options in advance. Perhaps it is worth deploying or extending the pipe itself, or maybe it would be better to choose a non-standard plumbing model. Of course, ideally, if the toilet can be connected vertically at an angle of 90 degrees. It is worth remembering that it is better if there are as few intermediate parts between the toilet and the sewer as possible.

You can draw a diagram of the location of the toilet and other items in the toilet. So it will become more clear whether you need an angular placement of the structure or you can get by with the generally accepted standard. In modern new buildings, everything is simple. After all, here the toilet is installed from scratch, all communications are summed up taking into account various models. In the old Khrushchevs, everything is clearly more complicated.

Dismantling the old

When the new toilet has already been selected, the location is known, as well as its main characteristics, it is worth moving on to the next step in the form of dismantling the old toilet. Most often, you have to clean floor-mounted toilets that are attached to the floor. You can easily and quickly deal with such a task yourself. There is no need to go to the master.

It’s worth starting by turning off the water and draining it from the tank into the toilet bowl. Then you need to unscrew the hose that goes from the drain to the tank. Next, unscrew the fasteners of the tank. If they do not lend themselves, it is worth using special tools. They are applied to fasteners (for about 6 minutes), completely dissolving lime or rust during this time.

Of course, you can do without such funds. For example, using a wrench or a screwdriver to break the mounting bolts is easier. If the old toilet is planned to be thrown away, then the problem of poor detachment of the tank can be solved with a hammer. After the tank mounts are unscrewed, you should go to the toilet bowl mounts. Often they look like a nut screwed on an anchor. To facilitate the unscrewing process, you can use the methods described above.

When all fasteners are unscrewed, it is necessary to disconnect the toilet drain from the sewer. In old toilets, as a rule, the place where the drain is attached to the sewer pipe was coated with cement. If so, you will have to remove the cement with a screwdriver and hammer. And you need to start with a coating that runs across the seam.

Next, you should swing the drain, but leave it in place. The toilet must be moved in different directions in order to finally drain the water remaining in the knee. It is necessary to disconnect the neck from the sewer pipe. This is not always easy: sometimes the toilet may be glued with cement mortar to the floor. In this case, with the help of a chisel and a hammer, the pedestal is broken off in parts.

Now the toilet should easily unhook, it can be taken to the trash. If desired, you can chop with a sledgehammer to make it easier to take out. Another important point is to plug the sewer hole with a plastic or wooden plug. This will allow you to work without unpleasant odors.

After the old toilet is dismantled, you should evaluate the condition of the pipes. For example, before installing a new design, experts recommend replacing a cast-iron pipe with a new plastic one. Modern pipes can greatly facilitate the installation of the toilet. Perhaps it is better to replace an uneven pipe with a direct analogue in order to make it easier to mount the toilet to the sewer drain.

How to install: step by step guide

Installing a toilet yourself is not at all difficult if you follow a small step-by-step guide. Moreover, to install the toilet on the floor and wall, the most important thing is a flat and prepared surface for fastening. For installation, it is worth preparing a number of tools in advance.

The main list includes:

• perforator;
• wrench;
• spanners;

• a hammer;
• sealant;
• screwdrivers;
• roulette;
• flexible hose.

The toilet cistern is supplied as a kit fully assembled or disassembled. In the second case, it will need to be assembled before installation. It is best to start the installation by decomposing all the parts to make sure they are present. Following the instructions from the toilet manufacturer, you need to assemble the inside of the tank. The steps may differ depending on the type of drain system. It is worth double-checking the reliability of fixing parts, but without undue effort, especially when tightening screws and bolts.

On the floor

Floor-standing toilets are somewhat easier to install than wall-mounted ones. Yes, and while they remain still more popular. Determine the coverage and evenness of the floor in the toilet room. Installing a toilet on the floor is different, based on the floor covering. For example, on a tiled floor there is no need for additional leveling.

If a tile is laid on the base, but it is not completely even, it is better to install using chopsticks and screws. If the toilet is installed in a new building where there is no finish, it is better to fill in the screed and then lay the tile. If a wooden stand was located under the old toilet, it should be dismantled. The resulting empty space should be filled with cement (preferably one that hardens quickly). In the event that the floor cannot be completely leveled, it is possible to increase the tightness during installation using a sealant.

They clean the sewer pipe from debris and deposits, install a tap on the water pipe (if it is not there) to shut off the water to the tank. Connect the toilet drain to the sewer pipe. You can do this in one of several ways.

The junction of the toilet bowl with the sewer is best sealed with silicone sealant. This will ensure that water does not get under the toilet when washing the floor. If the toilet bowl is connected to a cast-iron pipe, it is best to use an adapter collar with a diameter of 110 mm. Before use, a sealant is abundantly applied to it, then it is inserted into a cast-iron pipe. It is worth emphasizing that before this it is imperative to clean the pipe from contamination.

You can do this with a corrugated cuff. The main advantage of this method is economy. However, the toilet cannot be closely attached to the socket. This method is best not to choose for small rooms. Using a straight cuff, you can ensure a strong and tight connection between the bowl and the sewer. With the help of an eccentric cuff, it is possible if the centers for connecting the toilet and sewer are displaced. Follow the pre-determined toilet installation method.

For dowels

Try on the product again. Particular attention should be paid to the angle of inclination, as well as how the height of the sewer coincides with the neck. If inconsistencies are identified, they should be eliminated. Circle the seat with a pencil or marker.

Make markup. To do this, determine the central axis of the toilet bowl. It is best if it coincides with the center of the room. With a reference to the axis, it is necessary to install the bowl at a distance of about 15 cm from the sewer socket. Make marks for the holes with a marker, which is strictly vertically inserted into the holes for the fasteners.

Prepare mounting holes. To do this, you need to remove the toilet bowl to the side, make holes with a puncher according to the marks. Then it is necessary to clean the holes of debris and pour silicone into them, which in this case is a waterproofing agent. Then you need to insert the dowels.

Install the bowl. A special rubber gasket or a layer of silicone is placed on the outlined place for landing. Then they put the toilet in place and press it to the floor. Bushings are inserted into the holes for fasteners, the screws are tightened without undue effort, fixing everything with plugs. Excess silicone is removed with a rubber spatula or a damp cloth.

For adhesive

You can use silicone glue, liquid sealant, epoxy. This method is only suitable for smooth floors. Conduct markup. To do this, the bowl is placed in the required place and outlined with a pencil.

Prepare the base. You need to start by cleaning the floor and the base of the bowl from various contaminants. In order for the adhesion with the adhesive to be the best, it is necessary to make the surface rough. To do this, it is cleaned with sandpaper. It is also necessary to degrease the base of the toilet bowl and the floor with acetone or solvent.

Prepare the adhesive for work, according to the manufacturer's instructions. Apply glue to the bottom of the toilet and the inside of the contour on the floor. It should not be applied in too large a layer. Set the bowl in place. Be sure to press it hard to the floor.

Wait for the glue to dry completely. This usually takes at least 12 hours. During this time, it is better not to touch the toilet and not sit down. This will avoid location offsets. The fastening will be stronger.

On taffeta

Taffeta is a gasket made from durable wood. A plumbing structure is attached to it. This method is ideal when installing a toilet on a wooden floor. However, it can also be used on other floors. In addition to wood for taffeta, a rubber backing 5–15 mm thick is sometimes used. For example, you can use an old rubber mat.

Prepare taffeta. To do this, take a board, the thickness of which is 2.8 - 3.2 cm, cut a blank out of it. Then it is treated with drying oil or a solution that can prevent decay. For reliable fastening, anchors are fixed in the workpiece. You can also drive nails in a checkerboard pattern so that they stick out of it by 2 - 3 cm.

Make a recess in the floor to install the toilet. The size and configuration of the recess must fully comply with the dimensions and shape of the taffeta. Fill the hole with cement. Take the taffeta and turn it with the anchors or nails down. Then they lower it into the cement on the floor. If everything is done correctly, the board will be flush with the floor.

Waiting for the cement to dry completely. Install a toilet. To do this, put the bowl on taffeta and fix it with screws, which are pre-lubricated with grease or graphite. Rubber washers should be placed under the screw heads so that the ceramic remains undamaged.

After the toilet is fixed, follow simple instructions.

• Install the tank directly on the toilet bowl and mount it with the plastic screws that come with the kit. It is important not to forget to install an O-ring between the tank and the toilet.

• Connect flexible conduit. It is advisable to choose a long hose for this. Particular attention should be paid to the diameter of the inlet holes so that the fastening is strong. Do not use excessive force when tightening the union nuts.
• Install the cover with the seat and the release button. Instructions for their installation are in the instructions. The technology of work is extremely simple and understandable to everyone.
• Do a test run of water. If there is a leak anywhere, tighten the connections.
• Adjust the locking mechanism, according to the instructions.

On the wall

You can install toilets on the wall in a private house and apartment. Connecting modern models to the sewer is completely simple.

It is worth noting that such designs can be used even with a vertical sewer outlet.

• Assemble the installation frame itself, according to the instructions.
• Install the upper stops, which outwardly resemble rods. They are adjusted using a screwdriver and a socket wrench.
• Install the bottom stops, similar to plates. Adjust them with a socket wrench.

• Adjust the height, for which the already assembled frame is moved to the wall. The center of the frame should be exactly above the middle of the sewer pipe.
• The height of the installation is carried out using a bubble level. There is a mark on the frame that should be lowered or raised to the required height. Most often it is 1 m.
• Adjust the height of the stops, and also set the distance from the wall indicated in the documents.
• Fix the exposed frame reinforcement to the wall. To do this, mark in the necessary places with a pencil or marker. After that, it is necessary to drill holes and install dowel bodies in them. Then install the fasteners themselves, after putting them on the sealant.

• Install branch pipes, as well as couplings in a fixed installation. They are fixed in place.
• Install metal rods. They will be attached to the toilet bowl. They are screwed into special sockets, then silicone seals are put on top.
• Extend the sewer pipe to the required distance and fix it with a bracket. It must be inserted into the groove until it clicks.
• Connect the water supply to the tank. To do this, open the tank lid and remove the plug on the side surface. A corrugated pipe is inserted into the hole formed. It is connected to the insides with a cap nut. It must be tightened very carefully, since most often the nut is made of plastic.

• A tee is installed inside the tank, to which a pipe is connected using an American and an adapter. Also, a flexible hose from the tank is connected to the tee. It is attached with a cap nut.
• Close the installation for the toilet with a false wall, for example, from moisture-resistant drywall. As a rule, drywall is attached to the frame and profiles.
• Finish the wall and hang the toilet bowl. Install a decorative panel for the drain device.
• They put the toilet bowl on the pins, the outlet of the bowl hermetically enters the plastic sewer socket.

Before installing and before purchasing a toilet, you should familiarize yourself with the recommendations of experienced plumbers.

By following some rules, many problems can be avoided.

• The first thing experts advise to pay attention to is the type of drain. This is especially important if the sewer supply will not change. With the help of adapters, it is especially difficult to make a high-quality connection of a toilet bowl with an inappropriate type of sewer outlet.
• Do not postpone the purchase of plumbing at the last moment, and also purchase it after repair. It is better if the place in the toilet room is prepared for a specific toilet model in advance. This will simplify the installation of plumbing.

• You should refuse to save on bolts and anchors. It is better to choose nickel-plated fasteners. They don't rust. This will save the product in the future from ugly streaks, as well as sticking of bolts.
• An eccentric cuff, which is called a corrugation, will help compensate for the difference in floor height before and after repair. To supply water to the tank, it is better to use a flexible hose.
• In the case when the sewer pipe leaves through the floor, it is worth using a rectangular elbow or a flexible corrugated cuff.

• Ideal for installation when the toilet drain will be connected to the sewer without any cuffs and other additional elements. For sealing, a ring with a rubberized border can be used.

If the floor in the toilet is uneven, the toilet should be installed using silicone sealant.

Plumbers recommend using small wedges made of wood or plastic. However, with them it is also necessary to use a sealant to evenly distribute the weight of the toilet bowl. When installing a toilet bowl on old cast iron, it is better to use a sealant.

If the water supply is old, it should definitely be replaced. When choosing an eyeliner, you need to know the distance from the junctions on the pipe with water to the attachment to the toilet bowl. Then you need to replace the old flexible water supply. And 15 - 20 cm should also be added to it. Adapters for threads at the joints or FUM tape should be purchased in advance.

When installing the toilet on a tile, the surface must be scored to avoid cracks.

To do this, make marks in the right places. A self-tapping screw is attached to them and hit with a hammer several times. After that, you can drill a tile with a puncher or drill, but only without shock mode.

If the sewer riser is made of cast iron, it must be stripped down to metal, then thoroughly washed and dried. After that, a sealant is applied to a dry and clean metal surface. And you need to put it down a little more. After that, it must be connected to the corrugation.

You can also apply sealant to the outer part of the joint.

• In order to easily and without damage remove the corrugation connecting the toilet bowl and the sewer, its exit and the outlet of the toilet bowl are lubricated with wet soap. And only after this procedure is put on a sewer socket.
• Before you make marks with a marker through the holes in the sole of the bowl, you need to sit on it and check how comfortable it is. If necessary, you need to immediately correct the position.
• Do not use plastic dowels that come with toilet bowls. They break quickly, so it is better to give preference to other fasteners.

An additional insert in an old cast-iron sewer pipe can be removed with a perforator or burned out. Under no circumstances should a hammer be used. It is possible to burn out if the cavity was filled with sulfur or clogged with a cable. Before burning it is necessary to take care of sufficient ventilation of the room, remove all flammable means and materials.

Too strong inserts are best cut with a grinder or electric welding.

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When a property owner decides to change plumbing, he will not be hindered by knowing how to properly install a toilet in a private house or apartment. The work of dismantling and installing a new plumbing fixture requires special responsibility, since the slightest omission can lead to big troubles - leaks and, as a result, flooding of one's own home and neighbors' apartments.

What you need to know when buying a toilet

The main criteria that you should pay attention to when choosing a plumbing fixture are not only its model, brand and color, but also the dimensions (for more details: "What are the sizes of the toilet bowl - standard dimensions, options"). It is necessary to measure the distance from the sewer drain to the door to the toilet room before buying a toilet, and the result must be divided by 2. The result will be
the maximum size of the device that can be installed in this room.

The color and shape of the toilet bowl is chosen in accordance with the interior solution of the toilet room, it should match the design to the maximum. When purchasing plumbing, they certainly check its integrity and completeness. The existing mechanisms in it should work easily, without making creaking sounds.

Materials and tools for installing a toilet

When the toilet is properly installed with your own hands, use the following materials and tools:

• perforator or impact drill;
• marker or pencil;
• wrench;
• drills (drills) for metal by 8 or 10 millimeters, depending on the diameter of the dowels with which the device will be attached to the floor;
• a hammer;
• drills for tiles, if the flooring is finished with it;
• spanners;
• silicate sealant;
• Phillips screwdrivers;
• masking tape;
• rubber cuff measuring 123x100 millimeters (required when attaching the toilet bowl to a cast-iron socket);
• flexible water supply (when replacing the old one);
• cuff - depending on the toilet, a straight, flexible or eccentric is selected;
• kit for fastening the plumbing fixture to the base. See also: "Do-it-yourself toilet installation - detailed instructions for different types of toilet bowls".

Toilet installation rules

The fastest and easiest way to connect the toilet to the sewer pipe is to use a corrugated cuff. But at the same time, it is not possible to place the device as close as possible to the pipe socket. You need to know how to put corrugation on the toiletso that everything works without leaks. This circumstance is important when the toilet room is small.

When the toilet outlet and the sewer socket are located on the same axis, experts recommend using a straight cuff, but if on different axes, an eccentric cuff, such as in the photo.

The rules for installing a toilet bowl suggest that when purchasing a flexible water supply, its length is taken into account, which should be equal to the distance from the connection point of the filling mechanism to the cold water pipeline. To this value add 15-20 centimeters.

It is necessary to pay attention to the thread diameter (1/2 or 3/8 inch) and the type of connection (external/internal). Also, do not forget about buying a fum tape. In the process of dismantling the toilet, the remaining water may pour out of it, so the presence of a floor cloth will not be superfluous.

Technology and stages of installation of the toilet

The toilet installation procedure includes the work of dismantling the old plumbing fixture. Before that, turn off the water and disconnect the flexible hose. Then, without fail, the water is drained from the device and the drain tank is disconnected. If necessary, you can use a hammer if the plumbing fixture is no longer useful. In this case, you need to be careful with the fragments, as they can get into the sewer pipe and cause a blockage.

After removing the water from the bowl, they begin to clean the socket of the cast-iron sewer. Rust, remnants of old sealant, dirt are removed from it. Then the transition cuff (123x110 mm) is lubricated with sealant and placed in a cast-iron socket.

In the event that, after dismantling the old appliance, a wooden board is visible under it, it is removed, and the resulting cavity is filled with cement mortar, which is leveled with a spatula relative to the floor level and allowed to dry for 20-30 minutes.

To mark holes for attaching plumbing to the floor with dowels, they take the device and the eccentric cuff and temporarily place it in the place where it will be located. Further, the toilet installation technology provides for marking the holes with a marker or pencil. When the holes are at an angle, then you need to drill them at an angle, and then insert dowels of the appropriate size into them.

Install the fittings of the drain tank, as they interpret the rules for installing the toilet bowl and the instructions (it must be included in the kit). Plastic nuts should be tightened by hand and very carefully so as not to damage the gasket and not overtighten the dowel. It is necessary that the moving elements of the valve mechanism do not come into contact with the walls of the tank. The gasket is treated with a sealant.

The eccentric cuff is inserted into the adapter cuff with the petal part and fixed to the sealant in the cast-iron socket. The outlet of the bowl is inserted to the very base into the eccentric cuff, having previously treated it with a sealant. The fastenings of the holes must match, for which the cuff should be rotated carefully and evenly. Further, the main thing is not to overtighten the bowl to the floor, using screws and plastic washers.

It will help to properly mount the plumbing installation diagram of the toilet. In the next step, the bowl is placed on the drain tank. But before that, the gasket is attached to the bowl with a sealant. The tank is carefully fixed, preventing the gasket from moving.

Then the screws are evenly tightened, the lid, the seat, the flush mechanism, and the plumbing to the toilet are installed in the correct sequence. Produce a test flush, if necessary, adjust the mechanism.

If everything is done in accordance with the instructions, there can be no leaks.

To properly install the toilet on the tile, follow our step-by-step instructions, provided with photos and videos.

Working time: ~ 1 hour.
Total time: ~ 24 hours.

Preparing a room for a toilet

It is better to install the toilet bowl in a completely renovated room so as not to damage the plumbing. You should have a hole ready for the outgoing sewer pipe, as well as a water outlet for the drain tank.

Tools and materials required for proper installation

To install the toilet, we need the following tools and materials:

1. Adjustable wrench
2. flexible hose
3. fum tape
4. Pencil or marker
5. Yardstick
6. A hammer
7. Dowels and bolts (should come with the toilet)
8. Sanitary lubricant
9. liquid silicone
10. rubber spatula

How to properly install a toilet bowl with your own hands

Step 1. Eyeliner to the drain tank

Shut off water access to the system. Unscrew the plug on the water outlet using an adjustable wrench. A crane must be connected here. An angled or straight faucet of your choice can be used. Seal the threads on the faucet with fum tape and screw the faucet into a water outlet. If using a corner tap, screw it in so that it points down. Shut off the faucet valve.

Screw the flexible hose to the faucet outlet. It is not necessary to use a fum-tape, since a sealing gum is provided in the design of the flexible hose.

Step 2. Marking the toilet installation guide

To install the toilet exactly in the middle of the toilet, measure the width of the room against the wall and mark the middle with a pencil. Do the same in the middle of the room and draw a line along the two marks. This line will be our guide, determining the direction of the correct installation of the toilet.

Step 3. Assembling the sewer drain

If necessary, supplement the sewer drain with an angled pipe (45-90 degrees) so that its opening looks towards the outlet pipe of the toilet at a smoother angle.

Advice: To make it easier to connect two pipes, use plumbing grease. Apply it to the inside of the drain hole (lubricate the rubber o-ring) and to the outside of the elbow pipe that will fit into the hole.

The sewer drain can be connected to the outlet of the toilet in two ways:

• hard plastic adapter;
• flexible corrugation.

In both cases, when inserting the connector, use plumbing grease as above.

Step 4. Preparing the base of the toilet and marking it on the tiled floor

Advice: Do not pre-connect the tank to the toilet. When and how to connect the tank to the toilet, you will learn later in the article.

Take the base of the toilet and turn it upside down. The edge of the supporting part of the toilet must be smooth, without defects. Clean it up if necessary with a sharp knife.

Place the toilet base on the floor at the installation location. Follow the line you drew earlier (see step 2) to position the toilet correctly and exactly in the center of the toilet. Additionally, check the correct installation by measuring the distance from the toilet to the left and right walls with a tape measure.

Connect the toilet pipe to the drain system adapter and outline the perimeter of the toilet base with a pencil or felt-tip pen - this will help you install it in the future without additional measurements. Also, on both sides, mark the locations of the holes for fasteners.

Step 5. Fixing the toilet to the tile floor

Set the toilet aside and drill holes in the tile for fasteners. Use a special tile drill. The depth of the holes should be equal to the length of the dowels that come with the toilet. Hammer plastic dowels into the holes drilled in the tile.

Put the toilet back in place along the drawn lines and connect it to the sewer drain. Screw the metal screws with washers that come with the toilet into both mounting holes, but only halfway.

Step 6. Additional fixing of the toilet bowl with liquid silicone

Raise the toilet bowl by 0.5-1 cm, place any supports in two or three places (use what you have at hand - plastic, pieces of tiles, etc.). Very carefully inject white liquid silicone into the gap between the base of the toilet bowl and the floor tiles. Do this around the entire perimeter of the base of the toilet. Raise the sides of the toilet bowl with your hands and, taking out the stands, add silicone. Silicone should be evenly distributed around the entire perimeter of the base of the toilet and create a plentiful "cushion".

Lower the toilet and tighten the fixing screws all the way by hand (without excessive force). Remove excess silicone that is outside with a plastic spatula moistened with soapy water. Form a beautiful edging around the entire perimeter of the base.

It is necessary to wait a few hours (see the curing time of the silicone on the packaging), and only then proceed with the installation of the toilet.

How to install a toilet flush mechanism

Put a gasket on the threads of the main drain and insert it into the process hole of the drain tank. On the reverse side, tighten the wide nut with your own hands - do not use tools to avoid splitting the tank.

Advice: We recommend installing a locking device that controls the flow of water into the flush tank after installing the flush tank on the toilet bowl. This will make tightening the mounting screws more convenient - you will not be disturbed by an extra mechanism inside the tank.

When installing the locking device, check for burrs on the bottom of the device where the hose is put on. Remove bumps so that the further connection is tight. Insert the locking device into the hole in the tank intended for it and tighten it from the back with a plastic nut. Again, do not use any tools, tighten the nut by hand.

How to install a cistern on a toilet

After the silicone has completely hardened and the cistern drain mechanism is assembled, you can proceed to install it on the toilet.

Between the drain tank and the base of the toilet bowl, it is necessary to lay a soft gasket in the form of a ring (comes with the toilet bowl). Then slide the cistern onto the toilet so that the holes for the tie screws on the toilet align with the holes on the cistern. The connecting screws must have a plastic flat washer and a rubber cone. Insert the fixing screws into the holes of the drain tank and twist them on the other side with plastic nuts (horns). When tightening the screws, make sure that the tank is horizontal.

Screw the flexible hose that supplies water to the fitting at the drain tank. This connection does not require the use of a fum tape, since the connection will occur through a rubber gasket.

The installation of the cistern on the toilet is completed, you can open the faucet and check the flow of water, as well as see and eliminate possible leaks in the system.

Put the lid on the drain tank so that all the elements of the trigger mechanism enter the hole. Screw the release button into the hole. Check the functionality of the button. At this stage, the installation of the toilet cistern is completed.

How to install a seat and lid on a toilet

The simplest remains. Attach the seat to the toilet and thread the mounting screws through the holes. Without much effort, tighten the screws on the back of the toilet with nuts. Toilet seat installed.

Video lesson: How to properly install the toilet on the tiled floor in the toilet

Work completed. You installed the toilet with your own hands and, rest assured, you did it right!

The toilet has long been an integral feature of a well-appointed apartment or house. Gone are the "latrines". Now in construction supermarkets and online stores a huge range of plumbing devices is offered for purchase: traditional compact toilets, devices with hidden tanks, hanging, corner and even children's toilets. In principle, the installation of any equipment can be done by hand.

Do I need to install the toilet myself?

Of course, you can call a specialist from any service organization you like to install the toilet, whether it is a management company or an office offering installation services on the principles of outsourcing. However (at least for the most common models of toilet bowls), the installation of such equipment does not present any particular problems and is quite accessible after studying a small step-by-step instruction. In addition, understanding all the intricacies of installing toilets will help you to follow the quality of the work of the involved specialists, and will allow you to detect hidden defects and shortcomings in the services provided.

Types of toilets

In large supermarkets, showcases with toilet bowls sometimes occupy several tens of running meters. However, with all the variety of assortment, almost all designs of toilet bowls are no different from each other. A modern toilet bowl consists of several main parts.

1. Actually bowls. It can be of various shapes (with or without a shelf), with different flushing technologies (straight or circular), with different designs of its attachment to load-bearing bases (floor, hanging or corner), with various additional features (for example, with a built-in bidet and even with heating).
2. The sewage from the toilet, together with the water from the flush tank, enters the sewer pipe, which can also connect the toilet bowl and the sewer line with various configurations of pipes and adapters.
3. Waste water accumulates in cistern. This device can also have various installation options (attached directly to the toilet bowl or placed in a hidden way behind decorative partitions).

Typically, plumbing fixtures are supplied with instructions for installation and operation. But, nevertheless, some important nuances of the installation of such equipment are not described in the documents.

If you do not install plumbing equipment in a new building, then the first step in your work will be the dismantling of old equipment.

We remove the old toilet ourselves

Dismantling works look easier than installation of equipment, but some rules must be observed during their implementation.

Step 1. Thoroughly clean the toilet and surrounding area with disinfectants. You can use the cheapest, for example, chlorine-containing ("Whiteness"). Before starting work, put on protective gloves, and possibly goggles. Prepare a basin and rags to remove excess water.

Step 2. Shut off the water in the tank. On single-lever shut-off valves, when closing the pipeline, the lever must be turned perpendicular to the pipe. Drain the remaining water from the toilet bowl.

Step 3. Disconnect the water supply hose. Depending on the model of your equipment, the hose may fit the tank from the bottom, side or top. Use an adjustable wrench or wrench.

Step 4. We unscrew the screws with which the toilet is fixed to the floor. In older houses, the bolts can get stuck, so you have to cut them off or even break the toilet bowl. You may have to break out the toilet from the attachment to the cast iron sewer pipe. Stock up on patience and pliers. If you intend to leave the old tile on the floor, then be very careful - sharp and heavy fragments of the toilet bowl and excessive force when unscrewing the bolts can damage the ceramics.

Step 5. If your old toilet is attached to a plastic sewer pipe, then it will be very easy to dismantle it. Pull the toilet towards you and pull the toilet outlet out of the sewer contact pipe.

Now you have access to the installation site of the toilet. Let's skip the moment of installing a plastic sewer (noting that the location of the inlet of the sewer pipe under the toilet must correspond to the toilet outlet pipe), let's proceed immediately to installing a new plumbing fixture.

How to mount a compact toilet with your own hands

To install a standard toilet-compact, consisting of a bowl and a drain tank, we carry out the operations in the following sequence.

Step 1. We check the condition of the inlet pipe of the sewer pipe. We clean it if necessary. To prevent the spread of odors, close the mouth with a rag or plastic wrap.

Step 2. We place the toilet on the floor. If there is some distance left from the toilet outlet pipe to the sewer neck, then we measure it and buy a corrugated pipe of a suitable size.

Step 3. Complete with a toilet bowl there can be a "heel" - a soft lining under the base. If it is not there, then you can make the lining yourself, for example, from an unnecessary piece of thin linoleum, cutting it along the contour of the base.

Step 4. We carefully place the compact toilet in the place of its future location, check the symmetry of the location relative to the walls, the distance to furniture, to the outlet neck of the sewer pipeline.

Step 5. We mark on the floor the location of the contour of the base of the toilet bowl-compact and the location of future holes in the floor for the fixing screws.

Step 6. We move the toilet-compact to the side and start drilling holes.

• In case you have tiles already installed on the floor, then its upper layer is drilled with a specialized drill without perforation. Next, the hole is deepened with a percussion drill.
• If the toilet is installed on a wooden surface- holes are formed with a conventional drill for wood.
• If you have a toilet linoleum, then the hole can be cut with a sharp knife until it is firmly overlapped.

Step 7. We install dowels in the drilled holes.

Step 8. We place the base of the toilet on the seat and twist the screws into the dowels. Around the perimeter, the base of the toilet bowl can be treated with a sealant in order to prevent the penetration of moisture.

Step 9. We remove a plug from a rag or polyethylene from the neck of the sewer pipeline and connect the toilet outlet and the sewer to each other. The junction of the corrugated hose and the sewer pipe is also treated with sealant.

We connect the tank to the toilet-compact

There are models of compact toilets in which the flush tank is a separate element. In order to mount the tank, you must perform the following operations.

Step 1. We select bolts for fastening the drain tank. It is possible that the bolts supplied with the equipment are not protected from corrosion, so it is better to use bolts with an anti-corrosion coating (galvanized) or made of stainless steel. There must also be at least two sealing washers per bolt. We twist the whole structure. The sealing washers will also prevent the ceramics of the toilet bowl from being damaged by the bolts.

Step 2. We connect a flexible underwater hose. First, the fixing nuts are baited and tightened by hand, and then with a wrench or adjustable wrench. Between the tank pipe and the hose and between the hose and the water outlet, we insert silicone seals or use a fum tape.

Important! After completing the installation of the toilet bowl and cistern, wait about six hours for the sealant on the floor to completely harden.

Installing a toilet with a hidden cistern

The following types of hidden cisterns for toilet bowls are most common on the market: mounted or attached. Depending on the model, select the installation instructions.

We install a hidden type tank for an attached toilet bowl

1. We install the toilet bowl on the floor, as described above.
2. In the prepared niche we mount the drain tank. Usually it is bolted, as in a conventional compact toilet.
3. We install a frame for a decorative wall. Usually this is a metal profile on which drywall sheets are fixed. From above, the drywall is sheathed with tiles.
   When installing drywall sheets, we provide an opening for the output of the flush control system. When mounting a barrel with a fixed button, carefully calculate the distance from the body of the tank to the surface of the future decorative wall. Usually such dimensions are indicated in the instruction drawing. In addition, in the decorative wall, it is necessary to provide for the placement of an inspection hole for servicing a hidden tank.
4. We display the control panel on the wall surface, carry out the finishing of the decorative wall.

We install a hanging toilet with a hidden bull

Installing such a design gives you a profitable chance to redevelop the bathroom space, use its area more rationally. Installation of a suspended toilet bowl with a hidden cistern is carried out with the creation of an additional wall that will hide all engineering communications. We act in the following sequence.

Step 1. We create a project of the future bathroom. The hidden cistern has a certain thickness, which must be taken into account when designing a new wall. It may have a control system (button), which is either directly attached to the tank body, or carried out for some distance.

In addition, when designing the load-bearing structures of the future wall, it is also necessary to provide for the creation of a power frame that will support the hanging toilet. Here you can not do with a thin aluminum profile, which is used for the installation of plasterboard partitions. The power structure is welded from a metal corner. But usually the metal structure for hanging the toilet is already included with the equipment. This finished metal structure is called an installation. Fonts are attached to it, on which the toilet bowl will subsequently be mounted.

Step 2. After drawing up the project, we begin welding work on the formation of the support frame and erect the frame from the profile under the plasterboard wall, or install the finished frame. The frame must have voids for the installation of sewer pipes.

Step 3. We lay sewer pipes, bringing the inlet neck to the level of the outlet pipe of the hanging toilet bowl. Do not forget that sewer pipes must have a certain slope during installation.

Step 4. We place a hidden tank in the space behind the future wall. We connect it to the toilet drain pipe. If the drain control button is located directly on the tank, make sure that its outer vertical surface goes beyond the level of the future decorative lining of the plasterboard wall. We connect the inlet hose to the drain tank. Then we connect the "draft" hanging toilet and the hidden tank by putting on and fixing the toilet on the pins and connecting the pipelines for the delivery of water and drain. Do not forget to check the performance of the entire structure, the strength of its fastening before the frame is sewn with drywall.

Step 5. Remove the hanging toilet from the pins. We install drywall sheets. Usually they are simply screwed with self-tapping screws with countersunk heads to the profile. We form a hole for the tank drain control button. We make holes for the fonts for attaching the toilet bowl, for the pipe for supplying water and draining sewage into the sewer. The gaps between the sheets of drywall are puttied. To facilitate the formation of holes, the wall-mounted toilet comes with a special template, on which all the main contours are indicated.

Step 6.At the final stage of work, a finishing coating, for example, a tile, is laid on the walls.

Prices for a toilet with a hidden cistern

toilet bowl with concealed cistern concealed cistern

Mounting a toilet on a pedestal

As mentioned above, toilet bowls have a different configuration of the exhaust pipe. With a horizontal or inclined outlet of the toilet, the inlet sewer pipe is mounted flush with the base of the toilet bowl, its inlet pipe is directed horizontally or beveled upwards.

However, there are also models of toilet bowls with direct release. In them, the exhaust pipe is directed vertically downwards. Due to this configuration, the sewer inlet must be lower than the base of the toilet. This design of sewer networks is not available in all homes. But what if you like this toilet model more than others?

There is a way out - installing the toilet on a pedestal (this elevation can also be called a podium). A number of works need to be done.

1. Lay the sewer line. Depending on what its slope will be before entering the collector or another pipe, the height of the pedestal is calculated and, accordingly, the level of the toilet base.
2. After obtaining the required dimensions, we proceed to the construction of the pedestal. It must be installed on a solid, preferably concrete base. However, the downpipe of a toilet bowl of this design can be located in the gap between the finishing and the rough wooden floor. When the toilet with direct outlet is located on a wooden base, sewer networks must be laid up to the finishing floor.
3. On a concrete base, the pedestal can be built with bricks. Form a rectangle with a hole for the inlet of the receiving sewer pipe. Bricks can be laid out directly in a row, to each other, filling the entire internal space of the pedestal, leaving a niche for the sewer pipeline.
4. From above, the brick pedestal is plastered and covered with a top coat, for example, tiles.
5. Next, we do with direct release in the same way as described in the section on installing a conventional floor-mounted toilet.

Installing a corner toilet

There are models of toilet bowls that are installed in a corner. It differs from the classic floor or hanging only in that its drain tank has a rear wall in the form of a triangle. It is due to this configuration that the structure can be installed in a corner.

The installation technology of a corner toilet is, in principle, no different from the installation of a “straight” toilet bowl of the corresponding design. The only thing that can cause some difficulty when installing a corner toilet is the supply of a sewer inlet pipe. It must be mounted in such a way as to ensure the drainage of wastewater, possibly with a turn of the pipeline.

In addition, the design of concealed cistern toilets with a straight back also allows them to be installed in a corner. To do this, a wall is mounted diagonally in the corner of the room, behind which a hidden hanging tank is installed. Such a design can be located both at an angle of 45 degrees to the walls, forming an isosceles triangle, and at other angles, forming the space of the toilet according to your wishes.

To learn more about the technology of self-installation of the toilet, watch the training video.

Video - Do-it-yourself toilet installation