In the conditions of modern small apartments it is quite difficult to give free rein to imagination and purchase pieces of furniture that would suit everything. Among other things, it is quite difficult to find such interior elements that would be attractive not only in design, but also in price. These two problems can be solved by self-manufacturing wooden furniture. It could be, for example, a table. You can complete it by preparing everything necessary materials and tools. You can use this piece of furniture both in the kitchen and in the living room.
Preparatory work
In order to make a wooden table with your own hands, you will need to prepare some materials. It will take furniture board, whose thickness is 19 mm. This material is highly durable and looks very attractive. The shields at the preparatory stage will need to be marked out, and after that, blanks will be cut out of them. It is important to stock up on the necessary fasteners for assembly. Thus, it will be necessary to prepare 6 boards, which will make up bottom support. Their size is 19 x 100 x 965 millimeters. There will be 4 legs, their dimensions are 19 x 215 x 680 mm. The molding of the legs will also come in handy in the same amount, however, the dimensions of these elements should be equal to 1938 x 470 mm. The tabletop supports will be blanks with dimensions of 19 x 125 x 610 mm. A wooden table for a gazebo with your own hands can be made according to the same dimensions. The master must prepare two dowels for legs with dimensions of 10 x 32 mm. Two jumpers with dimensions of 19 x 140 x 1100 mm should also be distinguished.
Additional elements
You will need a steel coupler in the amount of two pieces, its size should be equal to 150 mm. The table top will be limited to the following dimensions - 19 x 1020 x 1900 mm. The worktop plank must be cut in two pieces and have dimensions of 19 x 19 x 1750 mm. Screws, washers, ties, and dowels will be used as fasteners.
Instrument preparation
It will be impossible to make a wooden table with your own hands if you do not stock up on an electric jigsaw, circular saw, hacksaw, drill with drills, planer, milling machine, file, clamps, brush. To fasten the parts, you will need carpentry glue; you can process the wood with sandpaper. The table will look good if it is treated with polyurethane varnish, which can be glossy or matte.
Manufacturing technology
If you decide to make a wooden table with your own hands, then you need to know that each support structure has 3 blanks glued together. An opening should be formed in the central part. Immediately you need to cut out 6 elements for two supports. Next, the master must make straight cuts using a circular saw for this. The corners must be rounded. In two blanks, it is necessary to cut the central part so that the groove falls on the central part of the support. The width of the groove should be slightly less than the thickness of the spike in the leg. This will prevent loosening of the structure during swelling and drying.
The next step is to glue the supports. After applying glue to the surface of the parts, they must be folded so that the upper edges are flush. Reliability of fastening will provide clamps. After the supports are dried, it is necessary to get rid of excess glue. After the clamps are removed, you need to plan the lower and upper edges.
Work on the legs
When a wooden table is made with your own hands, you need to prepare four legs. After the vertical edges, it is necessary to plan and round them with a milling machine. At the ends of long blanks, it is necessary to mark and then cut the spikes, placing them from above and below. This can be done with a circular saw, which must be equipped with a combination disc. After the moldings are cut out and brought to the required dimensions, all 4 ribs can be rounded. On the reverse surface of the moldings, it is necessary to make grooves for glue.
Work on supports
If you decide to make a wooden table with your own hands, a design photo will help you decide what features this piece of furniture will have.
The next step will be cutting blanks for supports. For gluing, a 10 mm groove should be selected in each blank. It is preferable to perform these manipulations immediately. In order to simplify the task, it is necessary to prepare a cardboard template by marking the location of the grooves on it. Further, pairwise gluing can be carried out so that the cut is located in the central part. Everything must be tightened with clamps. Once the glue has dried, you need to clean the saw cuts with an emery cloth.
Leg mounting
If a wooden table is made with your own hands, the photos must first be reviewed by you. It is important to initially fit all connections without using glue. From the wide edges of the connection should be tight. On the side, it is necessary to provide a gap of 1.5 millimeters to compensate for changes in the size of the wood. When edging, these elements will be decorated.
The walls and spikes must be treated with glue, after which you can proceed to pair the legs with vertical supports. Without waiting for the glue to dry, it is necessary to make holes and strengthen the pairing with dowels. If you decide that you will make a wooden table with your own hands, it is recommended to prepare the drawings for initial stage. For the legs, moldings of the required length should be cut. They need to be glued and pulled together with clamps. The glue is applied, and then left until dry.
If you decide to make a wooden table with your own hands, the drawings can be borrowed from the article. The jumper should be installed high, so that those sitting at the table do not touch it with their feet. It is necessary to glue using two strips, which are preliminarily edged with a molding.
After the glue dries, you need to remove the clamps, and then chamfer. Holes must be made on the short sides for installing fasteners. The tabletop can be made independently, its dimensions may differ from those presented above. At the ends, you need to select the spikes using a jigsaw.
Next, the saw cuts are cleaned with a file. Along the long edges of the workpiece, it is necessary to install strips that are attracted by clamps and dried. Via edge cutter you need to align the edges of the moldings. They should be fixed to the planks, and then dry and clean the joints with a grinder.
When a wooden table is made for a summer cottage with your own hands, the drawings will make it possible to understand how the table top and legs are connected. To do this, use U-shaped brackets. On the long sides of the base, quarters should be chosen to fix the sidewalls. The ends of the last elements must be rounded and cleaned. After that, everything is glued and compressed with clamps, and then left until the moment of drying.
Final works
Before you make a wooden table with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the technology of work. At the next stage, with a deviation from the edges of the base by 100 millimeters, it is necessary to make holes, the diameter of which should be equal to 20 millimeters. A through groove should be placed between them. Holes are required so that the base does not split. If you will be making a wooden table for giving with your own hands, the drawings should help in carrying out the work.
Now the master can assemble the table, for this it is necessary to fix the jumper to the legs. Using a pencil, you need to mark the position of the legs so that they are perpendicular to the ends of the lid. Brackets should be installed according to the markup. In the countertop, you need to make 10 holes for installing screws. Next, you can strengthen the brackets. A washer must be placed under each screw, this will compensate for shrinkage, this is the only way to make a folding wooden table with your own hands.
You can change the technology and dimensions of the table at your own discretion. However, it must be remembered that the design should be as strong and reliable as possible. It is important to protect wooden elements from negative impact external environment, especially for those pieces of furniture that are supposed to be used in the kitchen or outdoors.
The table is the second item after the stool that every novice furniture maker should be able to do. The table can be created from different materials and possess unique characteristics. A great intention for you will be the desire to make your product out of wood.
A wooden table is fairly easy to create with your own hands, it is enough to have minimal skills in working with carpentry tools. And the cost of the material will be significantly less than a table using metal, glass or plastic.
A piece of furniture made by oneself will correspond as closely as possible to the desires of a happy owner, and will delight the eye incomparably more than purchased. And most importantly, when creating a table with your own hands, important skills are acquired in working with the material, which will make the restoration of operational defects much easier.
What makes a good table
Especially beautiful tabletop can be made from cheap non-sorted pine boards, knotty and serpentine (without falling knots, rot, fungus, wormholes), which, with good processing, give a wonderful pattern, to achieve which, when working with an expensive tree, you need to apply much high costs and effort.
When choosing a material, it is important to take care of the strength of the future product. To do this, pay attention to the density of wood.
Soft (spruce, pine, chestnut, dogwood) is easily damaged during operation, which adversely affects the durability of the table. But scratches and dents can be hidden, although the restoration process will be quite frequent.
Hard woods (beech, ash, maple, oak, walnut, fruit woods, elm) are quite difficult to handle on their own. And you may have to look for masters to work with them. But ensure the durability of the product.
External characteristics
It is very important to determine in advance for yourself the appearance of your future product. The main rule of a good table is if the design fits well into the space allotted for it and leaves a lot of free space for those sitting.
It is also important to consider that a table with a rectangular top will accommodate less people than a table with a round or oval shape with the same area. And it would be more expedient to make a table for guests in a folding version, which unfolds for big holidays, and is folded in everyday life. Also, such a folding table will be convenient in the backyard.
Most often it is required to choose a kitchen table. It should be roomy and pleasing to the eye, to facilitate the process of working with him. But it should not interfere with movements in the room and in no way interfere with the process of culinary creativity.
Based on this, it is absolutely clear that the size of the table is selected depending on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. Also, softwoods cannot be used for the kitchen table due to its use in "extreme" conditions.
The choice of the external characteristics of the product is a responsible process, therefore, before starting the formation of a table for a dacha with your own hands, it is extremely necessary to carefully assess the needs for which this table is being made.
Transferring ideas to paper
When creating a design that is the fruit of your imagination, you will have to develop a diagram and drawings of your table with your own hands. Why there is a huge variety of electronic programs.
After a thorough development process, it is extremely important to transfer the result to paper. For fast and high-quality work, it is very important to use this manual constantly.
creative process
Preparation of drawings is the last preparatory stage. Next, you can proceed to the most important part of the work - the manufacture of parts. Do-it-yourself wooden tables are created much easier if the drawings and diagrams are as informative as possible. This reduces the chance of errors to a minimum.
You can personally make both a desk and a coffee table or children's version. With a certain skill, it is realistic to create and computer desk. As well as a dining or country model. Each of the options is quite easy to implement.
The canvas for the countertop and the board with the bars, from which the rest of the parts will be formed, are processed with the available tool or, at worst, coarse-grained sandpaper to remove defects present in the form of bumps and protruding knots.
Boards are sanded from all sides, including side edges and corners. If you are creating a canvas from wood cuts, you need to make sure that they are dry enough, and also close up small cracks found after visual inspection. And it's better to screw them. To get a more reliable grip of the canvas and save time on assembling the elements.
Transfer the scheme to the finished canvas. The main elements are cut with an electric jigsaw and, if necessary, the sections are ground. Speakers supporting elements trimmed to about 3 inches. Horizontal cuts are made on both sides of the supports (legs).
The blanks are covered with a preparation that prevents the ingress of moisture and pests, and only after the final drying is it allowed to resume the process of creating the table with your own hands.
Putting the details together
After making all the necessary details, you can begin the sacred rite. Namely, to collect the desired masterpiece together. And it can be either a round table or any other selected product.
First you need to collect supporting structure using screws and glue (at first, thin channels are drilled with a drill for the length of the screw, otherwise there is a possibility of splitting the part). Galvanized screws can be used for connection, as they do not rust, and this is very important for wood products. Or wood glue.
According to the basic rules, the frame in length and width should be 30-25 cm less than the countertop.
From the sides you need to attach additional boards to stiffen and hide the place where the legs are attached. Cut off the chamfers in the places where the legs are installed.
Then the table leg is fastened in place with clamps, and holes for the bolts are drilled into the frame. Install the support elements in their places and fix them with stoppers. Strengthen the structure with wood glue. Then set the countertop in place for what they are used furniture corners. At the very end, all visible screws are hidden with wood-colored plugs.
The final stage. Finishing
A photo of the completed table can be seen below. Achieving this result is surprisingly easy. Optionally, you can round either only the corners or the entire end, depending on the type of table. It will be nice to make chamfers on the edges of the tabletop.
Roughnesses are polished in the entire structure, with the help of putty, mistakes are hidden. To extend the life of your own assembled table, you need to cover it with several layers of varnish or stain.
So do it yourself beautiful table made of wood is a fairly simple leisure activity. And easy to do. The guarantee of extracting a solid, ideal in terms of dimensions and aesthetic result according to your drawings is: strict adherence to the instructions, error-free execution and carefully selected material. And the resulting table will harmoniously fit into the exterior.
DIY table photo
A poorly designed dining table is best remembered. One that is too low or too high, under which there is not enough free legroom, on which there is not enough space. In order to help you design a table that will only be remembered for its attractive appearance, we will list the basic standards here.
TABLE HEIGHT. Distance from the floor to the top surface of the lid. Usually it is 68–76 cm.
SPACE ABOVE THE LEGS. The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the drawstring is vertical legroom. The minimum distance is 60 cm.
KNEE SPACE. The distance from the edge of the table to the leg is the space for the knees when the chair is pulled up to the table. The minimum distance is from 36 to 40 cm, the optimal one is 36–46 cm.
SPACE ABOVE THE HIPS. The distance from the seat to the lower edge of the drawstring is the vertical space for the hips when a person sits on this chair, pushed up to the table. Minimum - 15 cm.
ELBOW SPACE. Side space on the table for each seated. The minimum is 60 cm, but 75 cm is much better.
HAND DEPTH. Front space on the table for each seated. Less than 30 cm will be small, and more than 45 cm - too much.
CHAIR SPACE. The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the wall is sufficient to push the chair back when getting up from the table. The architects say that a minimum of 90 cm is needed, and 110 cm would be the best option.
Table with king belt
When you hear the word "table", don't you think of a flat panel with four legs? Don't you think of just such a table, as drawn here? Yes, this design is the most original of the original. In its simplest form, the table typical design- consists of only three types of parts: legs, drawers and a lid (table top). The legs and the tsarg belt form a strong, but nevertheless open support structure. Structurally, many tables are drawbar tables, although we rarely call them that. Much more often they are called according to their functional purpose or their location: dining, kitchen, bedside, desk. Scrolling through the book further, you will come across the original designs of various tables, and many of them will return to this "basic" table. Such a table, as a rule, can be found in the kitchen or dining room. Its massiveness gives the impression of strength. Although the legs are quite massive, the chiseled profile visually reduces their massiveness. In addition, the individual dimensions of the legs make them ideal for strong carpentry joints. Despite the simplicity of the design of the table with the tsarg belt, many of its variations are possible. The table can be round, square, oval, rectangular. Its legs can be square, chiseled, tapered or carved. Even the kings can influence the look of the table.
Design options
For example, a round table with the same chiselled legs as the base table looks completely different. This excellent look is given to it by a square tsarg belt with round cap. Despite the elegant cabriole legs of the table in the style of Queen Anne, the massive sides make it a work table. The cut-out drawers at the third table make a significant visual and practical difference, making the table appear lighter and taller and providing more room for the occupant's hips.
Country style table
This table is called in different ways - a country-style table, a retro-style table, a bar table - and they represent it differently. Furniture researchers usually describe it as a simple, low, oblong table on a massive underframe with turned legs and prongs. Prolegs, especially as strong as in the figure, significantly increase the durability and rigidity of the structure. With intensive daily use, prongs can increase the life of the table by years. The terms "country" and "bar" are definitely associated with the XVII-XVIII centuries, when such tables were widely used in hotels, taverns and bars in rural areas and towns. The surviving examples of such tables do have massive legs - although they are badly worn out by many legs. The table shown here is equipped with one middle prong instead of two longitudinal ones, so that it is more convenient to sit at the table. However, many early tables had pro-legs around the perimeter. The design is uncomplicated. The drawers and prolegs are spiked into the legs with reinforcement with wedges, dowels, etc. The table cover is a wide panel “in the tip”.
Design options
The easiest way to change the design of a table is to change the legs. Our "original" table has round legs - turned - and the form of turning can be changed endlessly. Just remember that you will need a flat, rectangular surface for the side-leg joints. At a country-style table, you can also change the legs - as in appearance,
and their configuration, as shown in the figure below.
Table with drawer belt and drawer
The name "table with a king belt" refers rather than to style, but to construction. This type of table is the base for kitchen, library, desks etc. Even for a workbench. A drawer or two increases the functionality of the table, since the tools that are used when using it can be stored in these drawers. In some cases, a small box is enough, in others, the largest possible one is required. There are only a couple of ways to include such a box in the design. The simplest approach is to simply cut a box opening in the drawer. For a relatively small box and a fairly massive drawer side, it is quite suitable. If the opening turns out to be so large that it creates a danger of destruction of the board, then it is better to replace the drawer with box bars. The bars can be rotated 90° so that their width matches the thickness of the leg. Spike connections provide rigidity. A design with two - supra-jaw and under-jaw - bars is preferable, since the top bar will prevent the legs from moving inward.
Design options
Installing a drawer in round table quite possible. But if the tsar's belt has a square or rectangular shape, then you must be prepared that access to the inside of the box will be limited. If the drawer belt is rounded, then the front panel of the drawer should be made in such a way (for example, a layered-bent or block-glued construction) so that its shape matches the shape of the drawer side.
An alternative to a table with a leg at each corner is a table on one central leg. Its tabletop is attached to a central post mounted on low, flared legs. Here, the drawers are not structurally required, but some single-support tables have them. At first glance, a table without legs and a drawer side gives unlimited legroom. However, although it does have a lot of knee and hip room, its "creeping" legs usually get in the way of the feet of the seated person. This is the price of stability: the projection of the tabletop should not exceed the area of support by more than 15 cm. A little more - and you risk tipping the table, leaning on the edge. Critical to this design is the strength of the center post and its connection to the base or legs. The table shown here has an oval top and - in accordance with the major and minor axis of the oval - two pairs of legs of different lengths. The legs are connected to the racks tapering downwards, and the racks with the tabletop brackets are connected with double spikes into the eyes. These intermediate assemblies, in turn, are glued onto a square-core lath and form a central support that expands upwards.
The table on a support appeared in the 18th century as a small coffee table with a three-legged base. To make a dining table, carpenters combined two single-legged tables or placed an oblong tabletop on two three-legged supports. Modern models vary from the simplest utility to multi-rack. Structural advantage multi-column supports in increased resistance to warping. Although the area of support may be noticeably smaller than the projection of the table top, a large table with this type of support can be quite stable due to the mass of the support.
Put a wide board on the goats - and you get a table. This is the ancestor of the trestle table, which is perhaps the very first type of table. Since ancient times, its form has improved significantly, but it remains an easy-to-make collapsible table. His elementary form there remains a panel or sheet of plywood on a free-standing gantry. And when the trestle stops being free standing, that's when the assembly becomes a table, because they have to be connected to each other, to the top, or both. In the table shown here, each half of the goat consists of a fairly wide stand, cut into the leg at the bottom, and at the top into the table top bracket. The wider the trestles, the better the table resists rocking from side to side. A long massive proleg is cut into the racks. The tabletop is fastened with screws to the goats, and the structure becomes one. Although there is enough legroom under the tabletop, do not forget about the leg so that, while sitting at the table, you do not get bumps on your shins. Also, the ends of the tabletop should protrude 35-45 cm beyond the goats to provide enough space for those sitting there. Many trestle tables are designed to be collapsible. Common ways of fastening parts collapsible table shown on the next page.
Design options
Think about the shape of the racks and legs of the goat - simplest way change the appearance of this table. Several examples are shown here. The original sawhorses looked like sawhorses and the X-shape was quite popular in medieval Europe. The Pennsylvania Germans and other Germanic settlers brought this form to America, and it is still commonly found at picnic tables. Today the most common is H-shape. Shakers (sectarians-shakers), who made many tables on the goats, usually used graceful legs "with a high rise"
The familiar dining table can be extended with an additional cover board. Then regular table for a family, you can increase to receive guests. At first glance, it may not be noticeable that this standard table with a tsargovy belt, cut into two parts and reconnected with the help of special runners. The skids can be bought ready-made or made together with the table. Each sheet of the table top must be at least 60 cm - optimal location for one seated person.
Design options
The design of the extendable table can vary, as usual, by changing the legs and side. The shape of the drawer side and the tabletop has practically no effect on general design. If we are talking about a table with drawers, then they work with the sliding version as usual. As the extension limits increase, it may be necessary to add an additional leg to support the middle section. And do not forget about the importance of small details - for example, fastening the drawer side to the tabletop
Extendable table on one leg
A table on one support is the basic form of a table that has some advantages over a table with a drawstring belt. If you need a folding table, don't forget to consider this shape as well. It is quite possible to make such a table both sliding and folding, and a folding cover that will expand it. The most common option is a sliding lid with an insert section. As shown on the next page, the cover is divided in two and its halves are connected by special sliding skids. Thus, these two cover sheets can be moved apart and an additional board can be inserted between them. What to do with the support is the key question for the master. For the table to be stable, the size of the lid and the area of support must be close. In the example shown, the support is vertically divided into two parts, each of which is fastened to a respective lid web. When the lid is pulled apart, the support also separates.
Design options
The basic form has a support that separates when the table is extended. This is not the only option. If a relatively small, say 30–40 cm, expansion is acceptable, then extendable table can be done on a non-dividing support. Another option is to make a table on two supports. A table with a support for each sliding half can expand by 90–120 cm.
When choosing one of the folding tables one of the most interesting designs is a drawer system. It is simple to manufacture and use. There is nothing out of the ordinary about the basic structure of the table. The only difference from the usual underframe made of drawers and legs is the presence of slots in the end drawers. The difference lies on top of the drawstrings and legs. Instead of attaching the table top to the drawstring belt, its side sections, attached to long tapering runners, are stacked on top of the drawer legs assembly. The runners correspond to the slots in the sides. The existing central board separating the side sections is fixed with screws on the sides. The table top is laid on top of the central board and side sections, but is not fixed tightly. When unfolding the table, the side section simply slides out from under the lid. The skids have stops to prevent the section from being extended too far. When pulled out, the lid will tilt a little at first, but when fully unfolded, it will be flush with the side section. Since the pull-out sections are part of the design, you won't have to search for them in the closets and storerooms when you need to lay out the table before the guests arrive. You simply slide out a section or two - even if the table is already set.
Design options
The drawer system can be combined with any type of table support provided that the drawer side is available. Thus, a trestle table or a two-leg table (as in the figure on the right), equipped with drawers, can have retractable sections to increase the number of seats. However, the system is not well suited for countertops with non-rectilinear shapes. When folded, the side section retracts under the cover and its edges remain (or should remain) visible. If the shape is different from the shape of the lid, then the table will probably look rather odd when folded. For example, a semi-circular side section under a square or rectangular lid will create a gap between the lid and the sides.
Two-leg table with sliding
sections
A table with a sliding folding lid (table top) is relatively rare. Despite the low prevalence, this is an excellent system. The table has one additional section - a duplicate of the "main" cover, this section is connected to the cover using hinges and, when folded, lies on the main section (cover). To unfold the table, the “double” tabletop is moved to its extreme position (up to half of the underframe), and then the additional section leans back onto the underframe. The upper edges of the tsarg should be covered with felt or felt to facilitate the sliding of the lid. It is not difficult to make a sliding mechanism. Each skid has a ridge that fits into a groove in its guide. The disadvantage is that during periods of high humidity, the ridges can stick in the grooves. Basic option configured normally as a side table. In the unfolded state, the edges of the tabletop are quite far from the base, which creates enough space under the table for those seated. The U-shape of the legs will provide enough legroom for those sitting at the ends of the table.
Design options
When folded, this table looks like a somewhat odd dining table. To limit the overhang of the tabletop over the underframe (ensuring stability), the size of the base part should approach the size of the folded tabletop. Therefore, a folding tabletop should be used on a type of table that does not look odd if the tabletop has a small overhang. good options such applications include side table (as base), side table (shown here) and other tables and tables special purpose. These tables, when folded, can be placed close to the wall. Folding covers are usually used in traditional card tables, but without a sliding mechanism. However sliding mechanism fits here too.
A table with a folding board (or boards) is practically the “generic” name for all tables in which sections of the table top are connected by hinges. It is a common sight and has been present throughout American history. In any furniture style, from the style of the times of William and Mary to the modern one, you will find a table with a folding board. In this table, folding boards are part of the design. When not in use, they can be lowered to a vertical position, saving room space. There are many ways to keep the flaps in the raised position. The example shown here uses retractable holders - you lift the board and extend the support brackets from under it (approximately as drawer). For some other support systems, see a table with swivel frame supports, with swivel legs on a book table, and several card tables. The main thing to consider for this type of table is the width of the folding boards, which can be optimally supported by extendable or swivel/articulated arms. Make relatively narrow folding boards - say, no wider than 38 cm. For wider sections - see options with swivel frame supports or swivel legs. A long folding board, like the example shown here, will require more than one bracket. By the way, this example was received in the 20th century interesting name, which applies to a relatively long utility table with hinged lids. This name, which can be translated as "suffering", creates in consciousness a picture of a decomposed big table filled with food for hungry seasonal farm workers during the harvest season. Regardless of what we call it now, people who sat at such a table in the year 1840 or 1880 probably called it a folding table or folding table.
Design options
While a basic dining table is quite long and relatively narrow, with a rectangular top with sharp corners, a drop-down table can come in almost any size, proportion, and shape. The table top (tabletop) can have folding boards of a rounded or slightly rounded shape. On a shortened or square base, you can install a round, square or oval tabletop. You can round the corners of the folding sections or make their outer edges curved.
Table-book - Russian name table with swivel frame supports, which are hinged to the assembly of the side-leg-prong. The support post is connected to the turntable by the upper and lower crossbars. The whole support can be rotated so that the raised folding section (board) can be placed on it. The swivel bearing became the forerunner of the swivel leg. It has a lot structural elements, reflecting the state of carpentry art of the 16th century, when it appeared. But like any well-made frame, it is structurally rigid and makes an excellent support for a folding board. Although the first such tables usually had two frame supports (one for each folding board), there were often tables with one folding board and one swivel support, and it happened the other way around - there were several leviathans with 12 swivel supports. When folded, the tables were generally very narrow and save space. If they turn towards each other, then with the folding boards lowered, the support legs of the frames will be located next to the main legs, visually making them more massive. When rotated away from each other, the support legs will sit side by side, giving the impression of a table with six legs. The first tables were usually made in the Baroque style, with a complex chiseled profile of the legs. However, the example shown is completely modern.
Design options
A significant advantage of the book table is the ability to support very large additional sections. A solid support under the flap makes the table very stable even with one section raised. Thus, it is difficult to make a very narrow table with wide folding boards. When folded, the table takes up very little space. Unfolded - has a huge tabletop
This table can rightly be called a table with folding boards, but the swivel leg makes it stand out from others like it. The swivel leg is a descendant of the frame swivel support (see page 158). If the swivel support is attached to the table frame, consisting of the drawer side, legs and proleg, then the swivel leg is attached only to the drawer side. The result is a lighter appearance. Rather, the size, rather than the knot of the swivel leg, is characteristic of this table. The tabletop diameter of only 107 cm will be quite comfortable for four people. The swivel leg is used in card tables with small folding tops. During the Queen Anne period, a smaller version of the table shown here was called the "breakfast table" and was used both for breakfast and for games and tea parties. Larger tables will likely need additional swivel legs for better support for flip boards. The swivel - actually a wooden hinge - makes the swivel leg workable. A sleeker version than shown here makes the connection look like a metal loop.
Design options
The design of a swivel leg for a table with folding boards appeared in the first half of the 18th century. Although we chose a table in the style of Queen Anne as the "basic" table, the swivel leg was used in the tables different styles. The profile of the stem will typically be the style indicator. Chippendale-style swivel-leg tables often have convertibles, but always with a claw-ball finish. Square shaped legs are also used in chippendale tables. During the federal
Hepplewhite tables were made with legs tapering downwards, as shown here, and Sheraton style tables were made with chiseled, often embossed, legs.
Folded out folding boards transform
rectangular table to square
The advantage of a table with a frame swivel base over a table with a swivel leg is the stability provided by the additional legs. When the folding boards are raised, they are supported by additional legs. A table with extendable legs also has this advantage over a table with swivel legs, but it also has one advantage over a table with frame swivel legs. Like a table with swivel legs, this table has an additional leg for each folding board. But only a narrow crossbar connects the leg to the table. These crossbars are placed in a holder of two guides installed between the longitudinal drawers, and are extended through cutouts in the drawers. The leg is attached to the crossbars. Raise the folding board, extend the leg and lower the board onto it. You have a leg under the flip board and still have four legs under the fixed table top. This structure can hold very wide folding boards.
Design options
Here are two very different tables with retractable legs, each of which has excellent stability due to the additional leg (or legs) in the unfolded state. When the card table is folded and stands against the wall, the extra leg is not conspicuous. By unfolding the game table and extending the extra leg, you will get a support under each corner of the table top. Perfect. Retractable legs are also a great addition for long table with folding boards. If you make two retractable legs for each board, then the table will not lose stability when someone leans too hard on it.
The table-chair owes its birth to medieval practicality. In the Middle Ages, dwellings were small and drafty. Any furniture was expensive, everything was done hand tools. And if a piece of furniture could perform more than one function - well, so much the better. The table-chair is clearly universal. With the lid down, it's a table. With the lid up - the seat. And as with most universal things, its functionality is far from perfect. With the development of the furniture industry, the table-chair became more perfect in design and elegant in appearance. The item shown here has legs and armrests attached to the sides of the seat with spike-in-socket joints. The pronounced end of the shoe-shaped legs make the chair more stable, and the armrests more comfortable. The chair even has a drawer under the seat - more sophisticated storage than a box with a lid. The tabletop is fastened with a dovetail tie-in.
Wood is the most traditional material from which a table can be made. Moreover, both high-quality raw materials and various boards, cuttings, cuts, even stumps. A little imagination, work, and with your own hands turn flaws into virtues. After all, tables can be very different: for home, summer cottage, garden, magazine, large dining, very tiny - for the gazebo, others. Drawings, diagrams, photos, detailed descriptions make it easy to deal with.
Place for family lunch
It is not necessary to spend a lot of money to do something necessary, useful. If from previous works left boards, slats different sizes, you can try to make a decent dining table or a small decorative table out of them with your own hands. They will find a place in the country, in a city apartment.
Materials and tools for making a dining table
- 9 boards or bars made of poplar wood 0.35x0.35x90 cm;
- a piece of plywood 20 mm thick with parameters 140x260 cm;
- 2 poplar boards 1.8x3.5x250 cm;
- 4 beams of 70 cm (table legs);
- 3 beams of 90 cm (fractional parts of the frame);
- 4 beams of 45 cm each (transverse frame parts);
- cuttings of 20 mm boards of different parameters and plywood of the same density;
- self-tapping screws;
- nails;
- glue;
- stain (optional), furniture varnish.
This list can be adjusted depending on what you have.
You should also prepare:
- desktop circular saw;
- miter saw;
- electric drill;
- device for countersunk screwing;
- grinding machine wooden surfaces;
- roulette, square;
- pencil.
The drawings simply and clearly show how the parts are connected. Please review the image carefully. 
In the country house or in the garden you can not do without special furniture. It should be simple, reliable, sustainable. When making a table of boards with your own hands, do not forget to leave free space between the parts that form the table top. This will allow outdoor furniture to serve you longer - water during rain will not collect and stagnate on the surface, but will quickly drain. 
Get ready for work
You should prepare materials and tools:
- 2 boards of 85x10x2.5 cm;
- 4 boards of 168x10x2.5 cm;
- 17 boards of 95x10x2.5 cm;
- 2 boards of 1530x10x2.5 cm;
- 4 boards of 75x10x2.5 cm;
- screws, bolts, nails;
- glue for wood;
- level, tape measure;
- screwdriver or drill;
- saw;
- protective gloves, goggles;
- pencil;
- stain, paint.
Consider the proposed drawings, manufacturing sequence, methods of fastening elements wooden table.
- The table will be assembled by hand after you screw the legs to it. This can be done with self-tapping screws.
- Finishing done at the discretion of the master. Processing the finished product with stain, varnish, paint will make the wood more resistant to destructive external factors: sun, rain, wind, etc.
A small but very original table will not leave indifferent either the owners or their guests. During the day it will become a place for a cozy feast, and in the evening it will amaze with a bizarre glow. To make it, you will not need complex drawings, but only original idea and desire. 
What do you need?
- 3 boards with cracks of swamp cypress (or any other wood similar in texture);
- ready metal legs for a table;
- epoxy resin;
- photoluminescent paint or dry powder;
- polyurethane paint;
- adhesive tape;
- wood glue;
- grinding machine;
- glazing beads;
- clamps;
- wood glue.
A new, hand-made table will delight you with its exotic beauty.
An ordinary table can be safely attributed to the category of furniture necessary in the house. This item can, of course, just be bought in the store. But it’s not difficult to make a good solid table with your own hands.
The latter option is most often chosen by owners of their own homes.
Making a table from boards with your own hands
As the simplest option, you can consider in detail the manufacture of a table with a length of 120 cm, a height of 75 cm, a width of 70 cm. For it, you need to prepare the following materials:
- boards 40X140 mm, planed and cut, or floor lath right size- for example, 36X135 mm;
- a pair of bars with a section of 40X60 mm, 70 cm long;
- 4 furniture screws 10 cm long, with a diameter of 8-10 mm and a flat head;
- jigsaw or hacksaw;
- chisel;
- plane;
- grinder or bar with sandpaper attached to it;
- screwdriver and a set of drills.
Variant of a wooden vintage table (dimensions are in inches).
To make a tabletop, you will need to proceed as follows.
The tabletop must be assembled from cut-to-size boards in the amount of five pieces. They should be attached to the bars with self-tapping screws.
For self-tapping screws, the length must be selected so that the tabletop board with their help would be securely attached to the bars, while they should not pass through. When using a tongue-and-groove board, the tabletop is assembled solid, but from the last board it is better to remove the tongue from the edge with a jigsaw, and cut the side side.
If an ordinary planed board is used, it is better to leave a gap of about 3-4 mm when assembling the tabletop, especially if the table is intended for a summer residence. Such a gap does not interfere with the use of the table, but it greatly facilitates maintenance and does not allow dirt accumulations in those places where the boards are adjacent to one another, making up the table top. It is very simple to provide gaps with identity: when assembling the tabletop, you need to lay a rail with the desired width between the boards or use a metal corner.
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Legs for construction
The legs are made from the same material as the tabletop. At one leg, both parts will be connected “in half a tree”. Boards for the manufacture of legs are marked as follows:
- draw a rectangle on a sheet of fiberboard or plywood. Its dimensions are determined by the formula "A"X600 mm. Here A \u003d 750 - b (that is, the thickness of the countertop, calculated in millimeters);
- The board is placed along the diagonal of the rectangle so that different edges of the board are in opposite corners. Now you can mark the line along which it will be necessary to cut the boards, the "joint" on one and the other boards.
After the markings have been made, the legs are cut to length, each half of the tree is sampled. Then everything is adjusted and assembled using PVA glue with the addition of small sawdust and a few self-tapping screws. After the legs of the table are assembled, they must be attached to the bars of the table top with furniture screws, between the legs it is necessary to strengthen the stiffener - this is done using long screws. You can close both ends of the tabletop with bars, to fix them, use nails that have previously “bitten off” hats. They should be sunk into the wood in one blow of the hammer.
Almost ready. It is highly desirable to perform coloring of the product. To do this, you can use stain or colorless acrylic varnish based on water. This provides protection from precipitation and external influences.
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Classic woodwork
For those who prefer classical forms, you can offer to make just such a table. The following materials will be required:
- 4 pieces of timber with a length of 710 mm, section 10X10 cm;
- a board with a section of 10X2 cm, cut like this: two pieces of 800 mm, two of 1600 mm, two of 750 mm;
- four boards with a section of 250x40 mm, length 2 m.
The manufacture of table parts is carried out as follows. wooden table top it will be necessary to give a rounded shape on both sides. To perform the markup, taking into account the fact that all the details are done by hand, you can use the most common gymnastic hoop or an object of a similar shape. It is placed on boards, tightly folded in relation to each other - first at one end, then at the other. According to the markup, the boards are cut with a jigsaw.
All parts of the table have now taken the form necessary to continue the work. They are cleaned with a large sandpaper, then the surface is polished and impregnated with stain two or three times.
Assembly must be done in the following order:
- the base box is assembled from parts whose width is 1600 and 800 mm. For fasteners use galvanized self-tapping screws 4X60. Before assembly, the joints are properly treated with waterproof PVA glue or a good carpentry adhesive. The short parts of the box must be attached to the end of the longer ones;
- boards for the manufacture of countertops must be laid out on flat surface. A prepared box is placed on top - it must be centered and its inner contour drawn with a pencil. After that, the box is removed;
- in the most outlined contour, an indent of 110 mm is made from the corners - this is a place for the table legs. Further, glue and galvanized self-tapping screws 4X45 are attached to the table top of the board, which will ensure the integrity of the table top;
- the box is installed on the countertop, while the pre-made contour must be taken into account. The parts are fastened with self-tapping screws, while steel corners must be used. The place where the table legs will be installed must be left free;
- legs are installed in the corners of the box, fixed with glue, with outer side fastened with self-tapping screws. The strength and durability of the structure to a greater extent depend on how tightly the table leg is placed in the corner of the box. Therefore, before using self-tapping screws, it is better to ensure that the legs are fixed in the corner in any convenient way. The table is ready with your own hands.
You can start using the table when the carpentry glue dries and the structure acquires the necessary strength.
