One of the most inexpensive fences for a summer residence or a private house - from corrugated board. Its design is simple - dug-in poles to which transverse logs are attached. A profiled sheet is attached to this lattice with self-tapping screws or rivets. Everything is really easy, especially if you know how to use welding machine. Although there is a technology without welding - on bolts or on wooden crossbars. In any case, you can build a fence from corrugated board with your own hands. You can do all the work, if necessary, alone, but when installing sheets it is more convenient with an assistant.
Construction with metal poles
The simplest production is a fence with metal poles dug into the ground. You can use round or square section, but it is more convenient to work with square - profiled.
The length of the posts is taken depending on the desired height of the fence, plus from 1 to 1.5 meters is added for penetration into the ground. It is necessary to dig into the ground below the freezing depth of the soil. For each region, the soil freezes to a different depth, but in middle lane In Russia, this is about 1.2 m. When determining the depth to which you bury pipes, it is better to play it safe and make the holes deeper. Otherwise, the forces of winter heaving of the rack will simply be pushed out, and your fence will fall down (see photo).
For pillars, they usually take a profiled pipe with a section of 60 * 60 mm with a wall thickness of 3 mm. The distance between the posts is from 2 to 3 meters. The greater the thickness of the profiled sheet, the less often you can put poles. If the soil is hard to dig, it makes sense to make the distances larger, otherwise you can save on the purchase of metal - the thinner, the cheaper and the price difference is significant.
Logs for a fence from a professional sheet are made of profile pipe 40*20 or 30*20 mm. The second option is wooden bars 70 * 40 or so. When using wood, a significant amount is saved, but the tree disappears faster, and besides, it warps from moisture. Most likely in a few years you will have to change the lags, and they will already be metal. But as an economy option for several years will go.
When making a do-it-yourself fence from corrugated board with wooden logs, do not forget to carefully treat the wood with an antibacterial compound (for example, Senezh Ultra). It is better to do this in the bathroom - immerse the bars for 20 minutes in the solution completely. So they will last longer.
The number of lags depends on the height of the fence. Up to 2 meters - two are enough, from 2.2 to 3.0 meters you need 3 guides, even higher - 4.
Ways of fastening the lag to the poles
Metal logs are welded either between the pillars or in front. The first method is more laborious, and more waste is obtained: you have to cut the pipes into pieces. But with this arrangement of the lag, the structure turns out to be more rigid: each pillar serves as a support for the sheet and it “walks” less, if desired, a couple of additional fasteners can be placed along it.
If you weld pipes in front of the pole (from the side of the street), there is less work, but you still have to cut and there will be waste: it is necessary that the weld of the two sections falls on the pole. Unless you guess the distance so that they lie flat. Then you buy materials in advance, and then calculate the installation step of the pillars.
For fastening wooden bars, holders are welded in front or on the sides - metal corners or U-shaped guides. Holes are then drilled into them and fastened with bolts or self-tapping screws.
There is an option to assemble a fence from corrugated board without welding. For this there is a special fastener, which is called the X-bracket. This is a cross-shaped plate with curved edges, which is mounted on self-tapping screws.
Decking for fences
For fences, a profiled sheet marked C is used - for fences and walls. There are also H and HC, but they are not suitable for fences - these are more roofing materials. It is rare to find markings A and R, profiles A can be used for fences.
In the marking after the letter there is a number - from 8 to 35. It indicates the height of the rib in millimeters. So C8 means that the profiled sheet is intended for a fence, and the wave height is 8 mm. The higher the wave height, the more rigid the surface will be. In strong winds, take at least C10, and even C20.
Sheet thickness - from 0.4 to 0.8 mm. The most optimal option is a thickness of 0.45 mm or 0.5 mm. They are suitable for fences up to 2.5 m in height. If you need a higher one, take at least 0.6 mm.
The height of the sheet is usually around 2 meters, you can find 2.5 m. The width is very different - from 40 cm to 12 meters. Different factories produce corrugated board of various formats.
Decking can be galvanized or painted (painted is 15-25% more expensive than galvanized). Paint is applied in two types: powder and polymer coating. Powder coating is more durable, but also more expensive.
There are sheets painted on one side - on the other there is galvanized coated with primer gray color, there are - from two. Double-sided coating is naturally more expensive than single-sided painting, but the view is better, and the service life is longer.
Support pipes and logs for the fence are usually primed, then painted. And it somehow happened that they were painted with dark paint. Having then attached a profiled sheet painted on one side to them, they get a clearly visible “skeleton” on a light gray background. On the small area this is critical. Pay attention, and when building a fence from corrugated board with your own hands, paint the supporting frame in light gray. The result will please you: it looks much better from the yard.
How to fasten the profiled sheet to the frame
Fasten the sheet with screws or rivets. Self-tapping screws for profiled sheet are galvanized, there are painted. Pick them up to match the color of the fence. Tighten with a screwdriver using a nozzle.
The installation step depends on the wavelength and the height of the fence. The higher the fence, the more often you need to install fasteners. It holds normally if fastened through a wave to increase strength, with two lags it can be fastened in a checkerboard pattern, and not one above the other.
During installation, it is important to set the first sheet vertically. Then all the rest will be installed without problems. When laying sheets, the next one enters the one already installed on the 1st wave. Attached to the bottom of the wave. It is necessary to install the self-tapping screw strictly perpendicularly. Then the hole is covered with a washer and precipitation will not cause peeling of the paint.
For information on how one can attach a profiled sheet to a fence, see the video.
Do-it-yourself fence from corrugated board: photo report
A fence was built from the neighbors and frontal. The total length is 50 meters, the height is 2.5 m. A brown profiled sheet is used on the front, and galvanized on the boundary, thickness 0.5 mm, grade C8.
In addition, the following materials went:
- profiled pipe 60 * 60 mm, wall thickness 2 mm, pipes 3 m long for poles;
- 80 * 80 mm with a wall of 3 mm were placed on the gate posts and gates;
- logs 30 * 30 mm;
- gate frame and gates 40*40 mm;
A ready-made fence from corrugated board was built by one person with his own hands
The fence is mounted on metal poles, between which the plinth is then poured. The owners need it, since it is planned to set up a flower garden in front of the fence (you can see the fence made under it). It is also needed so that water does not flood the yard during heavy rains. metal sheets fastened not immediately from the ground, but retreating a little. This gap is closed with a die-cut - a tape that remains in some industries. This is done on purpose so as not to block the access of air, so that the earth dries out faster.
Metal preparation
The first stage is the preparation of pipes. From the warehouse, the pipe comes rusty, so that it serves for a long time, you have to clean off the rust, then treat it with Antirust and then paint it. It is more convenient to first prepare all the pipes, prime and paint, then just start the installation. The rust was cleaned wire brush installed on the grinder.
The pipes in the warehouse were only 6 meters long. Since the height of the fence is 2.5 meters, you need to bury another 1.3 meters, the total length of the post should be 3.8 meters. To save money, they cut it in half into 3-meter pieces, and the missing pieces were added with various scrap metal available on the farm: trimming corners, fittings, pieces different pipes. Then everything was cleaned, primed and painted.
Pole installation
The first two corner posts were placed. Pits were drilled with a drill bought in a store. The soil is normal, one hole 1.3 meters deep took about 20 minutes.
The first pillar was set horizontally and so that it rose above the ground to a height of 2.5 meters. To set the second one, it was necessary to beat off the height. Used a water level. It must be filled in so that there are no bubbles - from a bucket, and not from the tap, otherwise it will lie.
They put up the second pillar at the broken mark (applied to the bar, which was placed next to the hole) and concreted. When the cement had set, a twine was pulled between the posts, along which all the rest were aligned.
The filling technology was standard: a double-folded roofing felt was installed in the hole. A pipe was placed inside, poured with concrete (M250) and set up vertically. The level was controlled by a plumb line. It is very important to set the posts correctly, otherwise the entire fence will warp.
In the process of work, it turned out several times that concrete was poured not inside the rolled roofing material, but between it and the walls of the pit. Raking it out of there is a small pleasure, because the protruding part was cut into petals, nailed to the ground with large nails. Problem solved.
After the concrete had set, they made a portable formwork from boards covered with a dense film. With their help, the basement was filled. To make it stronger, reinforcing bars are welded to the posts on both sides from the bottom. Formwork was placed around them.
Jumper setting
Cleaned, primed and painted pipes for the crossbars were cut and welded. Cooked between the pillars. They are also tedious to put in a level to make it easier to mount.
After the welding is completed, all welding points are cleaned with a wire brush, treated with "Anti-rust" and then painted.
Profiled sheet installation
Since the top jumper runs along the very top of the fence, and it is welded exactly to the level, there were no problems with leveling and installing the sheets. Fastened first along the edges, then installed intermediate screws. To make it easier to put them evenly, a thread was pulled between the extreme ones.
Smoothly installed fasteners are also beautiful
After the gates were welded and attached. How final touch- additional elements are installed on top - a U-shaped profile that covers the top of the fence and plugs for pipes.
As you understand, there is nothing particularly complicated. It is important to set the posts evenly and weld the frame. This is the main task. A lot of time - about 60% is spent on preparing pipes - cleaning, priming, painting.
Fence made of profiled sheet with brick pillars
Of course, a fence with brick pillars looks more decorative. You can do it if you want, but it will take more time. There are two options:
- To make a full-fledged strip foundation. But it is long and expensive. On well-drained soils, you can make a shallow foundation, on heaving soils you will have to dig in below the freezing depth of the soil. And although the tape will not be wide, there is a lot of work - dig a trench for the entire length of the fence, put up formwork, knit reinforcement, fill it and then finish it. Put brick pillars on top. Strong, reliable, but expensive.
- Do as described above: load-bearing poles with plinth. Bricks are laid around the pillars. This method is less costly. About,
The whole technology is the same, only the reinforcement will be required more rigid - two belts of two bars with a diameter of 10-12 mm. It will be necessary to install embedded elements in the pillars, to which the guides will be attached. They (mortgages) can be welded to the pipe after it has been exposed and the mortar has set.
Photo of the design of the fences from the profiled sheet
Often a profiled sheet is combined with forging, sometimes a frame is welded from a profile pipe, a profiled sheet is mounted in it and all this is decorated with metal patterns - forged or welded. Another option to make the fence non-standard is to install the wave not vertically, but horizontally. A small, seemingly change, but the view is different. Some ideas in the photo gallery below.
Corrugated fence - optimal solution to protect the territory of a country house or cottage from prying eyes and unauthorized visits. Fences made of this material serve at least 30 years. The metal profile is extremely easy to process, and a simple installation technique allows you to install a fence around the house or summer cottage quickly and with your own hands, without involving additional work force. Possessing high operational characteristics and durability, measured in decades, the metal profile also performs a decorative function, with which you can ennoble private territory, making it not only inaccessible to prying eyes, but also homely.
Construction of a fence from a metal profile: the pros and cons
A distinctive feature of a metal profile (profiled sheet, corrugated board) is versatility. In addition to the arrangement of roofing and the construction of temporary utility structures (hangars, sheds, garages, etc.), this material is widely used in the construction of fences and fences for various purposes.
The metal profile is made from cold-rolled sheet steel, which is covered with a layer of zinc and a protective polymer film of various colors using a special technology. The thickness of the profiled sheet is 0.4–1.2 cm. At the final stage of production, the sheet laid in rolls, using roll forming equipment (manual or automatic), receives a certain profile (trapeze or wave).
Good to know: The steel base and stiffening ribs provide increased resistance of the material to deformation and force, while galvanizing and polymer coating reliably protect the profiled sheet from rust and mechanical wear.
For the construction of fences, a wall profiled sheet with a profile height of 8 to 44 mm is used. The final cost of the material is influenced by such parameters as:
- thickness of the steel base;
- availability and quality of galvanization;
- the quality of the polymer coating;
- profile shape and height.
Advantages of a metal profile
The main advantages of using corrugated board in the construction of fences and fences include:
- High performance.
- Small specific weight.
- Ease of processing and installation.
- Durability and resistance to aggressive operating factors.
- Relatively low material cost.
The profiled sheet is well protected from rust, deformation, damage and climatic factors. The material is produced in a wide range of sizes, which allows it to be used for the construction of fences of any height and length.
Good to know: The lightness of the profiled sheet, as well as its mechanical rigidity, greatly simplifies the installation process. In addition, when building a fence from this material, the requirements for the strength of the supporting frame are reduced.
Cons of wall corrugated board
The disadvantages of the metal profile used in the construction of fences and barriers include:
- Low level of sound insulation (a corrugated fence will not be able to protect the internal territory from noise coming from the street).
- Low resistance to destructive effects (a fence made of such a material is easy to break through, say, with a heavy car, or cut a hole in it using special tool for subsequent entry into the fenced area).
- Low presentability (corrugated board is significantly inferior in external attractiveness to traditional materials used in the construction of fences - wooden and plastic fences, metal, brick or stone).
Good to know: Despite the obvious shortcomings, the professional sheet has no equal in terms of efficiency and has absolute fire resistance. The material is available in a wide range color solutions and an extensive range of shapes and profile sizes, which allows to satisfy almost any aesthetic needs of the buyer.
Photo: types of fences, ideas for implementation on the site
Profiled sheet as a decorative cladding on entrance gate Oh 
Metal profile fence on metal supports: inside view 
Decorative design of the profiled sheet in the composition country fence 
Metal profile fence with decorative design: inside view 
Fence made of profiled sheet with decorative design 
Fence from a profiled sheet on a site with a slope of the terrain 
Corrugated fence with brick pillars 
Fence from a metal profile on a concrete foundation
Fence project and preparation for construction
It is necessary to carefully prepare for the construction of a fence from a metal profile. Errors in the design and installation process are unacceptable, as they entail unplanned expenses of time, nerves and money.
In order for the construction of the fence to be carried out promptly and not to take an unreasonably large amount of manpower and resources, at the preparatory stage of construction it is necessary:
- Decide on the type and required characteristics of the metal profile.
- Develop a construction project.
- Calculate the required amount of materials.
- Prepare a set of tools and auxiliary materials necessary for construction.
- Run accurate markup fenced area for construction, taking into account the location of gates, entrance gates, terrain slope, etc.
Important to remember: After the purchase and delivery of the base material to the construction site, it must be carefully stacked and covered to protect against premature wear and climatic factors before installation work. The location of the stacks should not interfere with the passage, passage or placement of other building materials, elements building structures, transport, etc.
What decking to choose?
If the decision to build a fence from a metal profile is made, it remains to choose a material that is suitable in terms of cost and quality. To do this, it is necessary to determine the requirements regarding its protective characteristics, as well as reliability, durability and resistance of the future fence to wear and damage.
But first, it does not hurt to pre-install:
- conditional life of the fence;
- priority on the aesthetics of appearance or operational reliability;
- design features of the fence and the possibility of replacing its individual elements during operation.
The list of key factors determining the choice of profiled sheet for the construction of the fence includes:
- Material brand.
- steel thickness.
- The quality of the galvanized steel base of the profiled sheet.
- type of polymer coating.
- Sheet dimensions and profile options
- Price-quality ratio.
- Durability and wear resistance.
- Aesthetic preferences of the owner of the protected area.
Profiled sheet marking
The metal profile has a special marking, which determines its main characteristics and purpose. So, for the construction of a fence, material grade C (wall) or HC (universal) is suitable. The numbers in the marking of the profiled sheet mean:
- profile height in mm;
- useful sheet width;
- thickness of the steel base.
Important to remember: The thicker the steel base and the higher the zinc content in protective layer, the more resistant to corrosion and deformation is the profiled sheet. However, at present, galvanizing technology is used less and less in the production of material. A much more reliable protection against corrosion, damage and wear is a special polymer coating, which, moreover, can be set in color and even texture, corresponding to the purpose of the metal profile.
Polymer coating and value for money
The polymer can be applied both on one and both sides of the sheet, which significantly affects total cost material. In addition, the price of the metal profile is determined by the type of this very polymer coating:
- Polyester (PE) - film thickness is about 25 microns. The coating is used to protect the inner surface of the material. The film has low resistance to mechanical damage and exposure to ultraviolet, which is offset by the low cost of the profiled sheet.
- Matte Polyester (PEM) is a 35 µm coating that is gloss-free and resistant to direct sunlight.
- Pural (Pural) - a protective film about 50 microns thick. Differs in elasticity, a high degree anti-corrosion protection and excellent color quality.
- Polyvinyl fluoride (PVF, PVDF, PVF2) - coating with high rates strength and elasticity. Meets increased performance requirements, with excellent resistance to ultraviolet radiation, as well as rust and mechanical damage.
- Plastisol (PVC200) is a universal film with a thickness of 200 microns, designed to protect surfaces of any type. Has high decorative qualities and elasticity, providing reliable protection of steel against corrosion.
Important to know: The dependence of the price on the type of polymer coating, which largely determines the durability and wear resistance of the material, is obvious. The greatest demand in the construction of fences and barriers is used by a metal profile coated with matte polyester with the best price/quality ratio. Pural-coated material is also popular, since the latter provides not only high aesthetic performance of the profiled sheet, but also increases the life of the fence.
Profiled sheet parameters
The strength of wall corrugated board depends not so much on the thickness of the steel base (0.1 cm is enough for the construction of the fence), but on the size, shape and thickness of the ribs (waves) of the profile. Therefore, the main attention when buying should be paid to the height of the latter. For the construction of a fence in an area with normal wind loads, a material with a rib whose height does not exceed 21 mm is suitable. Concerning required sizes sheet and the amount of material, they are determined based on the required height of the fence, as well as its perimeter. In this case, it must be borne in mind that the profiled sheet will be mounted with an overlap.
For the construction of fences and barriers, four grades of wall corrugated board are used. Their calculated parameters are given in the table:
Good to know: Wall corrugated board is produced in sheets 12 m long, but before sale it is cut into pieces 2–3 m long that are more convenient for transportation and installation.
Proper design of the fence and calculation of materials, scheme
Before heading to hardware store for materials, you should correctly calculate their quantity, as well as determine the amount of work on the manufacture of the main elements of the fence design. This can be done only if there is a detailed project. The latter is easy to develop on your own, without involving expensive specialists.
The first and main thing that is necessary for the design is the value of the perimeter of the fenced area. If it is not indicated in the cadastral plan, it will have to be measured independently. For this you will need:
- hammer marks (metal or wooden pegs) into the ground at the corners of the site, as well as at points where the fence changes direction;
- tie the tags with nylon or linen cord;
- calculate the length of the cord between the marks, which will correspond to the value of the perimeter of the site.
The next step is to determine the location and required dimensions of the entrance gate and gate. On the sides of the latter, it is necessary to set marks, measure the distance between them and subtract the obtained value from the total perimeter.
Calculation of the number and size of sections
- For example, let's assume that the site has a rectangular shape with sides of 20 and 15 m. Let's take the width of the gate equal to 2.5 m, and set the value for the gate to 1.5 m. In this case, the length of the fence will be equal to: L=(20+15) * 2 - (2.5 + 1.5) \u003d 66 m.
- The standard length of the profiled sheet is 12 m, so for ease of transportation and installation it will have to be divided into segments. Therefore, at this stage, it is necessary to calculate how many segments will fit in one section along the length.
- Set that the gate will be located next to the gate on the 20-meter side of the perimeter. In this case, the length of the fence in this section will be: l = 20–4 = 16 m. Thus, we take the number of sections equal to 3 meters: 2 sections will have a 5-meter length, and the size of the remaining will be 6 m.
- If we take the length of the sections with opposite side perimeter equal to 5 m, their number here will be 4.
- It remains to calculate the number of sections on the 15-meter segments of the perimeter. The calculation is carried out in a similar way: we take the length of the section equal to 5 m. This means that only 6 sections will be obtained along the width of the rectangle - 3 on each side.
- Let's calculate the total number of sections: n=2+4+6+1=12+1. Thus, the fence will have 12 sections 5 m long and one 6 m section adjacent to the gate.
Support calculation
Having the value of the number of sections, we calculate the required number of supports using the formula:
From this it follows that for the installation of the fence you will need: K \u003d 13 + 1 \u003d 14 supports.
Important to know: as support pillars for a fence from corrugated board, it is convenient to use a profile pipe of square (50 * 50 mm) or round (d = 50 mm) section. It should be noted that the length of the supports is a composite value. The outer part should be at least 10–15 cm longer than the corrugated board sheet. This is necessary in order to leave a clearance of 5–10 cm high from below and a height margin in the upper part of about 5 cm. So, for a fence 2 m high, the height of the supports will be 210–215 cm. For installation in the ground, another 80–120 cm will be required (depending on the type of soil, freezing depth and groundwater level), and if the fence is installed on a strip foundation - 40–50 cm.
Subject to necessary requirements to the design of the supports, their length will be:
L og \u003d 200 + 15 + 80 \u003d 295 cm (when installing supports in the ground);
L op \u003d 200 + 15 + 40 \u003d 255 cm (when installed on a foundation).
Calculation of corrugated board
Using the values of the height of the fence, as well as the number and length of sections, the required dimensions and the number of profiled sheets are determined.
The height of the fence is equal to the length of the section of the profiled sheet. If the fence being designed is 2m high, a standard 12m sheet will need to be cut into 6 2m pieces. If a profiled sheet of the C21 brand is chosen for construction, 5 such sheets will go to each 5-meter section and 6 more sections of 1 m wide for the remaining 6-meter section.
As a result, the total number of profiled sheet segments 2 m long will be:
N=n 5 *5+n 6 *6=12*5+1*6=66 segments
where n 5 and n 6 are the number of 5- and 6-meter fence sections.
It is important to remember: The installation of the profiled sheet is carried out with an overlap. This means that each of the sheets will lose a little in length during installation. Thus, when calculating the number and size of sheets relative to the length of the section, the value of the joint size, multiplied by 2, should be subtracted from the total length of the sheathing.
Calculation of transverse logs
For fences made of corrugated board, a metal profile pipe with a cross section of 40 * 20 mm and a length corresponding to the dimensions of each section is used as a transverse log. At the same time, for the installation of a fence with a height of 2 m, no more than 2 tiers of crossbars will be required.
This means that the number of lags for the calculated fence will be:
k=k s *2=13*2=26 lag
where k c is the number of fence sections.
Final result
As a result of the surveys, it was found that for the construction of a fence around the site in question, it is necessary:
- 26 crossbars;
- 14 support pillars;
- 66 sheathing sheets 2 m long.
Then it remains to re-draw the diagram of the site and put on it a projection of the fence with the designation of the number and size of sections, the location of the gate and gate and other important data. The construction project can be considered ready.
Necessary tools and auxiliary materials
In order to independently manufacture and install a fence from corrugated board, it is necessary to prepare in advance the tools that you cannot do without in the process of work.
This list should include:
- bayonet and shovel;
- concrete mixer (if the fence is installed on the foundation or the supports will be installed on concrete);
- earthen drill (for mounting support pillars in the ground);
- electric scissors;
- metal scissors;
- electric drill with a set of drills for metal;
- screwdriver;
- welding machine;
- circular saw with discs for metal;
- construction tape measure;
- measuring cord;
- building level;
- plumb.
In addition to the basic materials of corrugated board and a profile pipe for the manufacture of supports and transverse logs, auxiliary tools will be needed for the construction of a fence.
The last list contains:
- sand;
- crushed stone;
- cement;
- primer for metal racks and crossbars;
- paint;
- metal screws or other fasteners for mounting the cladding.
It is important to remember: When cutting metal, in the process of building a foundation or installing supports in the ground, as well as when installing crossbeams and fixing a profiled sheet, it is very important to observe safety precautions. This will avoid injury, as well as damage to the material and breakage of the tool. Protective goggles, gloves and overalls should be used when performing work operations. And most importantly: you need to prepare a free area for work, on which nothing will interfere with the manufacture of fence elements, and bring electricity to it to connect power tools.
How to build a fence from corrugated board with your own hands: step by step instructions
After marking the territory and preparing materials, it's time to start building. The general algorithm of actions is as follows:
- pouring the foundation with installation on it vertical supports;
- installation of support pillars in the ground;
- installation of transverse logs;
- priming and painting of the metal frame;
- cladding installation;
- decorative fence.
Good to know: If the installation of the supporting frame is carried out by welding, the welds must be cleaned. Also, plugs of the appropriate shape should be welded onto the support posts, which will prevent moisture from entering the pipe. Holes in metal are best done before assembly, although with a powerful drill and a quality drill, they can be made after. Primer and paint on metal carcass it is advisable to apply before the installation of the crate so as not to stain the new profiled sheet.
Laying the foundation for a corrugated fence
If the conditional life of the fence exceeds 20 years, or the nature of the soil or the layout of the site does not allow installation in another way, the fence is installed on a strip reinforced concrete foundation.
The foundation is poured in several stages:
With the help of a concrete mixer, a concrete solution is made from sand, crushed stone, cement and water, with which the trench is poured to the desired level. In the process, you should periodically check the vertical support posts or fix it to the formwork with a lock from the waste boards.
Important to know: The soil will not take away moisture from the concrete if the bottom of the trench is abundantly moistened before pouring. The finished foundation should be allowed to dry for at least 3 days, after which you can proceed with the installation of the transverse logs.
Installation of support pillars in the ground
If the fence is planned to be used for no more than 15–20 years, the fence is temporary, or the soil or site layout allows installation without pouring the foundation, the support posts are installed in the soil.
There are several ways to install supports, the choice of which depends on the nature of the soil, the depth of groundwater and the height of the fence:
- driving;
- partial concreting (combined installation);
- butovanie (installation on a pillow of sand and gravel);
- full concreting (with reinforcement);
The algorithm for installing fence supports into the soil looks like this:
- Plugs are welded on the upper and lower ends of the supports, which will prevent moisture and soil from entering the pipe.
- The corner supports and poles are installed first at the edges of the gate and gate. In this case, it is necessary to carefully monitor the observance of the vertical level of the supports.
- Installed corner posts are knitted with twine or rope to mark the fence line.
- The remaining supporting posts of the fence are mounted along the perimeter in the same way, observing the vertical level and the line set from the corner supports.
Important to know: To enhance the bearing capacity of concreted or partially concreted supports, the hole can be reinforced with thin (d = 10 mm) reinforcement.
Installation of fence posts on a site with a slope
If the land plot has a slope, a number of additional steps must be taken when pouring the foundation or installing support pillars. In particular, with a slight slope, the soil should be simply leveled.
When installing a fence on a foundation on a site with an average slope, the procedure will be as follows:
When installing supports in the ground on a site with a slope, the depth of the holes is adjusted in the same way: the bottom of the hole of the first support of the next level should be at the level of the middle of the hole of the last support of the previous one.
Important to know: The level difference in height should be the same along the entire length of the fence.
Installation of the supporting frame
After installing the support pillars in the ground or on the foundation, the installation of transverse logs is carried out. They can be installed by welding or by means of special “crab” fasteners.
When mounting on "crabs" in supports and transverse lags, it is necessary to make holes of the appropriate diameter for bolted connections.
Installation of crossbars for welding is carried out by one of three ways: logs are welded end-to-end, on the sides of the support column, or fixed using a holder pre-welded to the support (a section of a U-shaped profile of the required dimensions).
Good to know: The location of the lag and the distance between them depends on the height of the fence. If the latter is 2 m, 40-50 cm must be subtracted from the upper edge of the support - at this level the upper line of the crossbars will be attached. Further down, we retreat 100–120 mm and mark the installation level of the lower lag. Then the distance from the lower crossbar to the ground will be: l=200–40–120=40 cm.
Sheathing with metal profiles and finishing, painting the fence
If the installation of the frame is completed, and plugs are welded on top of the supports, you can proceed to the final stage of construction of the fence sheathing. To do this, in the transverse lags with a step equal to the step of the profiled sheet profile, holes are made for fasteners. Before starting work, it is important not to forget to calculate the location of the joints of the metal profile; its sheets are attached directly to each other, bypassing the crossbars.
After installing the sheathing, the fence can be decorated with decorative elements. For example, forging or bumpers along the upper and / or lower edge of the profiled sheet. You can also additionally protect the caps of self-tapping screws and bolted connections with special plastic plugs.
It is important to remember: When joining sheets with an overlap, installation is carried out on the upper wave of the profile. Fixing the profiled sheet to the crossbars is carried out in the center of the lower profile wave.
The construction of a fence from corrugated board requires thorough preparation and, most importantly, correctly performed calculations. Then, if you do not make gross mistakes during installation, the work does not take much time and effort. For example, it will take only 3-4 days to fence off a site with a perimeter of 60–70 m, of course, provided that you don’t have to dig a lot to level the soil. The result should be a reliable and durable fence, which will serve as an excellent protection of the site from prying attention and greatly complicate unauthorized entry into the fenced area.
In this article we will talk about the advantages and disadvantages of certain types of fences, and about building a fence with your own hands.
So, you are the proud owner of a new land plot! Work - no end, but it is a very pleasant job. Where will you start? From the construction of the fence, of course! If you have enough funds, it is better to hire specialists (although it is not a fact that they will do it qualitatively and “for centuries”). But if the budget is limited, and you are full of energy and enthusiasm, then it is quite possible to build a fence yourself. The process is quite laborious, but quite feasible - you are not the Great Chinese Wall build, in the end)) In this article I will talk about the advantages and disadvantages of certain types of fences, and about building a fence with my own hands.
What kind of fence to build?
So, after consulting with your wife (and most importantly, with your mother-in-law)), you are finally “ripe” for construction. Now you need to decide - what kind of fence do you need? If you want to completely “hide” from the outside world in your country oasis, then build a fence made of bricks, corrugated board, concrete slabs or tall boards. If you just need to fence your property, consider creating a palisade, a metal lattice, a chain-link fence, a low board fence, or even make a beautiful green hedge fence.
And do not forget, in addition to its main purpose - to protect the territory and protect it from foreign penetration, the fence must also perform an aesthetic function. Therefore, pay attention to its appearance. Before I talk about building a country fence with my own hands, let's spend brief comparison the most common types of fencing.
Wooden fence
Advantages:
- the availability of the material;
- low cost.
Can be purchased cheaply edged boards and independently process them (plan, grind, treat with an anti-rotting agent and paint). And you can buy a finished wooden fence in the store (edged board, by the way, will cost 3 times cheaper than the finished product). You choose.
Flaws:
- short-lived;
- requires regular maintenance: repair, tinting, and so on.
brick fence
Advantages:
- very durable (it will serve you faithfully for more than 50 years), the most durable of all types of fence;
- does not require special care;
- looks solid and respectable.
Flaws:
- very high material cost;
- you will need a solid foundation, the construction of which is very expensive.
Corrugated fence
Advantages:
- availability and variety of material: different sizes wave, different color, coating and other parameters;
- ease of installation (does not require a special foundation);
- low price;
- practical;
- durable: will last you about 30 years.
Flaws:
- very unattractive appearance(especially from the inside).
Therefore, quite often, when building fences with their own hands, they combine corrugated board with bricks.
It turns out durable and aesthetically pleasing.
Concrete slab fence
Advantages:
- excellent strength of the material: a concrete fence is 5-6 times stronger than a brick fence and can last more than 100 years;
- undemanding care;
- an impressive variety of decorative concrete slabs for fences - you can choose any model you like.
Flaws:
- it will not be possible to build it with your own hands from beginning to end, because for the installation of such a fence you will have to involve special equipment and workers.
Metal mesh fence
Advantages:
- reliability: modern metal fence meshes consist of galvanized iron rods with pvc coated;
- sufficient durability (service life up to 30 years);
- does not create a shadow on the garden plot.
Flaws:
- does not close your site from the immodest glances of passers-by))
We build a fence in the country with our own hands
And now I present to you two ways to build a fence with your own hands, the most popular among summer residents and do not require serious financial investments.
Wooden fence:
A detailed master class on building a wooden fence with your own hands is presented here, so now I will only very briefly recall the main points.
- We define the boundaries of the site.
- We drill holes for supporting pillars with a depth of 0.7-1.0 m at a distance of 2 or 2.5 m from each other.
- We insert poles into the pits, using a level (or plumb line) we check that they stand strictly vertically.
- We strengthen (can be concreted or cemented).
- We nail or fasten a bar with a section of 50 x 50 mm or more onto the pillars from above and below or fasten it with self-tapping screws.
- Install cross bars.
- We attach edged boards to the finished structure (you can take boards with a section of 85 x 145 mm) at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from each other.
- Let's start painting.
Very important! Before proceeding with the construction of such a fence, all wooden parts should be oiled 2-3 times or coated with another anti-rotten agent.
Corrugated fence:
So, you bought the metal sheets you liked in the store and are ready to build a fence from corrugated board with your own hands. Start with a trivial markup of the site, and then follow the instructions:
- Along the perimeter of the site, drill holes in the ground with a depth of 1-1.2 m.
- Fill each hole with a layer of crushed stone or gravel 20-25 cm thick.
- Set in pits metal poles with a section of at least 50 x 50 mm and adjust them strictly vertically.
- Reinforce the posts with concrete or cement mortar.
- To the pillars equal distance weld transverse logs (2–3 pieces) from a profiled metal pipe from each other.
- On the resulting base, fix the sheets of corrugated board (usually they are mounted on self-tapping screws).
It is worth noting here that it is undesirable to fasten corrugated sheets to self-tapping screws, because cunning attackers can easily twist such fasteners in your absence and steal corrugated sheets. Alas, such cases are not uncommon. Therefore, it is better to use special rivets for metal, which no thief can unscrew.
A few important nuances:
The quality factor and durability of any fence depends on the supports - the pillars on which it rests. Therefore, experts advise using durable metal supports even for wooden fences - so the fences will last much longer.
Think over where and how you will fix the gate, what they will be: sectional, swing, folding or others. And then you can use classic solution for any type of fence: a rectangle for the gate, welded from a profile metal pipe, should be slightly smaller than the niche in the fence for arranging the gate. The size of the gate is up to you. You can sheathe the profile with the material from which you make the fence: boards, corrugated board, and so on. And you can experiment))
You need to take care of the double-sided handles on the gate and the valve (if you need it). The gate is attached to the supporting frame with strong metal canopies. If you put a padlock, then you need to fix it on the gate metal hinges for him. And if you decide to make a mortise lock, then on one of the support pillars (from the side of the lock) and on the gate door, make holes for the lock itself and for its tongue. published
P.S. And remember, just by changing your consumption, we are changing the world together! © econet
Fence at the dacha
A fence is a building envelope, the main functions of which are to mark the boundaries of private property and protect the courtyard from the intrusion of unwanted guests. A good fence copes not only with these tasks - it concisely completes landscape design, complements the decoration of a residential building and speaks of the respectability of the owner of the site.
Corrugated fence
What kind of fence is considered good for giving? First of all, the one whose costs justify the quality. Do-it-yourself economy fence in the country house is easiest to assemble from corrugated board.
A fence on a summer cottage made of corrugated board is the perfect combination of price and quality
There are several advantages to such a fence.:
- Affordable price;
- Durability;
- Wide palette of profiled sheet colors;
- Ease of assembly;
- Unpretentious care (it can rain to wash the fence).
We build a fence from corrugated board according to the following instructions:
- We dig holes for supporting pillars with an interval of 2 - 2.5 m and a depth of 0.8 - 1.2 m.
- Sprinkle the bottom with crushed stone until a layer 20 cm thick is formed.
- We put the metal bearing part, controlling the evenness of the supports with a building level.
- We fill the pits with a concrete-sand mixture (we prepare the composition at the rate of 1: 8).
- We wait for the solution to harden and weld two diameters from the professional pipe to the pillars.
- We use self-tapping screws to fasten profiled sheets with lags.
- We love the fruits of our labor.
As you can see, it is really possible to build an economy class fence in the country with your own hands. And quickly and at no extra cost.
metal fence
You can enclose the summer cottage with a metal fence. We draw a design diagram, purchase materials and connect them with a welding machine. Creation procedure iron fence similar to the manufacture of a fence from corrugated board, but the difference is only in the sheathing. The spans will be created either from a grid or from metal rods. In the course of creating the frame, we grab the parts by welding.
The peculiarity of a metal fence is that it is not necessary to make a foundation for it.
In order for the fence to be in harmony with the site and the residential building, we make it forged, mesh, sectional or with corrugated sheet.
A wrought iron fence does not belong to the economy class, and in order to build it in the country with your own hands, you will have to tinker a lot. Fences assembled from metal rods are budget structures. But they are not deaf, so the courtyard will be visible to people passing by.
Plastic fence in the country
An innovation in the improvement of the suburban area is a plastic fence. Its installation will be mastered by anyone who has experience in assembling structures from plastic profile and PVC boards.
The design of the fence is made of plastic, increased strength, which is not afraid of blows.
There are many advantages to plastic fencing.:
- Small price.
- Easy care.
- Easy installation.
- Aesthetic appearance of the finished product.
- Resistant to fire, deformation, moisture.
- The ability to retain color despite precipitation and heat.
- The ability to create different variations of the fence - a blank wall, a fence, an imitation of a picket fence, etc.
- The fence does not dry out, does not crack, does not deteriorate by insects.
brick fence
The construction of a brick fence is a responsible job and requires compliance with certain rules. But the owner receives for his efforts a high-strength beautiful fence with a long service life. A rich assortment of bricks allows you to create a fence that organically complements any exterior.
Competently erected brick fence can even withstand a hurricane!
We build a brick fence in the country as follows:
- We measure the length future design and create an estimate for materials.
- We mark the territory and dig holes for the strip foundation.
- We fill the base immediately, as soon as the supporting pillars are placed.
- In order to avoid the formation of joints and increase the strength of the structure, we make the foundation in one approach.
- On the frozen foundation we are engaged in laying bricks. We arrange them in one row, but if you want to show creativity, we use combined or openwork variations. For a high fence, we make a double-row masonry.
If you have never worked with bricks, engage a specialist to build the fence, since the laying of the material requires scrupulousness and control over the evenness and thickness of the seams. In the absence of sufficient experience, the design may turn out to be sloppy and weakly stable.
Chain link fence
As soon as the chain-link mesh was first used to make a fence, consumers of building materials immediately realized that this perfect option for a translucent fence, which can be placed on the boundary and not be afraid of quarrels with neighbors about shading their plantations.
A chain-link fence is ideal for a fence between neighbors, because by law, deaf high fences are prohibited
Range metal mesh represented by three varieties:
- Galvanized;
- Not galvanized;
- Plastic coated.
We immediately sweep away the bare non-galvanized version, since the operation of such a fence will be minimal. Simply put, rust will quickly “eat” it. A PVC chain-link is more suitable for warm regions and coastal areas, since plastic protects the mesh well from moisture. But this material is not resistant to temperature extremes. This means that a galvanized mesh will be a more or less durable solution.
We work with the material like this:
1. Start building this fence by marking the location supporting parts. We set the intermediate pillars in compliance with a distance of 3 m, tension - with an interval of 9 m. For the bearing part, we take iron profiled pipes Ø 60 mm and corners 50 mm or more.
2. Under the intermediate columns, we drill the ground with a drill until the required number of holes with a depth of about 40 cm is formed. For tension poles, we make recesses of 60 cm. We will not engage in concreting on clay soils and soils with an admixture of clay. They are prone to heaving, and this is dangerous by cracking the concrete base in winter period. When working with pillars, we concrete sandy soil and light loam.
3. As soon as tension poles take their places, we connect them with other supports using metal corner, bolts and welding.
4. If we put only intermediate posts as a bearing part, the mesh fabric will be well stretched. But the design will not be reliable, because the sheathed bottom is easily lifted and not only an attacker, but also a smart child can penetrate into someone else's summer cottage.
Let's protect ourselves from uninvited guests in the following way. We pass a wire rod with a diameter of 3 mm through the cells in 3 horizontal levels. To tighten it, we drill 3 through holes in each column.
5. We fix the chain-link on the pillars. We put the roll vertically at the support post and check where the bent ends of the lines are (they should be at the top). We attach the top line of material to the top of the column and go to the next support, slowly unwinding the roll. We pass the wire rod through the grid between adjacent columns and insert the ends into the holes. We stretch the wire and fix it with tension bolts. The work is over.
Wooden fence options
The traditional version of the design for fencing the site is made of wood. All the subtleties of making wattle fences, picket fences and slab fences are transferred from experienced craftsmen to novice craftsmen. This familiar trinity is joined by a modern design - the "American ranch". Consider the construction of these fences.
Wattle
To create a strong dense wattle fence, you need to stock up on branches, poles, pipes. If the bearing part will have a diameter of about 8 cm, then for spans it is better to take:
- Willow;
- Willow;
- Flexible vine;
- Birch or poplar rods.
Wicker fence is traditionally made from improvised means - existing branches, vines, sticks
In order not to wander through the clearings, you should look for building materials under your feet. Surely there are branch cuttings in the garden berry trees and hazel. The only condition is that the branches must be cut at an angle of 60 °. But the best wattle is obtained from a freshly cut vine.
We use the wooden material collected in the country for the construction of the fence as follows:
- For the bases, we prepare larch logs. Their number is determined by the number of the future fence. Based on the estimated thickness of the weave, we observe an interval between supports of 50 cm. If you have thick rods, make the distance larger. Stick to it almost to the end, and only place the last 3 logs 20 cm apart.
- Impregnate all wood with a protective compound, treat it with fire and resin. With special care, work out the bottom of the pillars, which will remain underground. These actions will prevent damage to the wood.
- Weave the bars of the future wooden fence in the country house between the posts. Drive the first branch into the ground 15 cm, holding it upright. The remaining rods, regardless of location, braid with wire around the frame. Fix the thick end of the rod first, and bring the thin end along the post through the fixed vines. Every 4 rows, tap parts of the fabric with a hammer. Brittle stems collect in armfuls of 5 pcs. Hide the edges and cut ends inside the hedge.
- Open the finished structure with varnish, decorate clay pots or plant weaving plants along it - a decorative rose or leafy ivy.
Fence
The picket fence is a ventilated fence made of wooden planks, which makes it easy to delimit the cottage. We begin its construction with fixing the supporting elements, for which we will take profiled iron pipes 60 x 60 mm. After concreting the holes, we are engaged in lags. We weld the diameters on the rods with an overlap and clean off the excess welding. We carefully prime the structure and paint it in a suitable color.
Wooden picket fence at their summer cottage
Next, we install gates and gates and equip them with fittings. We cover the ends of the pipes with plastic plugs - they will protect inner part supports from moisture and corrosion processes. We attach wooden planks to the crossbars using self-tapping screws. For even spacing, keep a distance of 3 cm.
For improvement general view fences we cover its top with a ridge-shaped plank design. As a result of making it with our own hands, we get a blown version of the economy fence, through which air flows easily pass - this is important for plantings growing in the country.
Slab is lumber, one of the side parts of which is propylene, and the other is either not propylene at all, or propylene is not over the entire surface. Logs belong to the waste of wood processing at the sawmill, so this material allows you to save on filling the spans. Despite the outward simplicity, the slab creates an imitation of a tree, and the owner gets a nice cheap fence.
Slab is essentially waste. Therefore, we can note the low cost per cubic meter of slab
Consider how the slab is used in the construction of the fence.
- Bark removal. Material debarking - important point preparatory work. You can’t skip it, otherwise the bark beetle will ruin the fence. We rid the slab of the bark with a flat shovel with a sharp blade, a carpenter's ax and a scraper. Then we sand the cleaned surface to perfect smoothness and apply several layers of antiseptic.
- We put metal or wooden support poles. In the second case, we take logs from pine, oak or larch. Optimum diameter trunk - 20 cm, length - 2 m. We cover the bottom of the pillars with hot resin or a Kuzbass-lacquer solution. When erecting a fence with girders, we leave a space of 2.5 m between the supports.
- On the loamy soils we drive in pillars without fortification measures. We drill the mounting points with a drill and hammer the supports with a sledgehammer. When carrying out work on sandy or chernozem soil, first we dig holes, the diameters of which are twice as large as this parameter of the pillars. We cover the bottom with gravel and tamp the poured 10-centimeter layer. We place each post in the center of the hole and fill it with gravel. The position of the bearing parts is controlled by a vertical level.
- Sheathing is carried out in any direction. First, we leave small gaps between the parts of the material, but later we also close them with a slab, and again with a convex surface outward.
- We cover the finished fence with paint or varnish.
- We protect the ends of the pillars with iron or plastic cones.
With a horizontal arrangement of the material, we attach the timber to the supporting pillars, nailing it on both sides with nails or fixing it with overlapping screws. To perform vertical plating, we saw the slab across, and with the runs we hook it with the convex side.
American style wooden fence
Assembling an economy class fence in the country with your own hands in the style of an American ranch is a simple matter. But first, all wood material must be treated with an antiseptic, giving increased attention ends of poles buried in the ground. Then we make markings along the perimeter and hammer in the supports for the “ranch” fence at the corners of the outlined rectangle. As usual, we put the pillars in the holes and concrete. The hardened solution is masked with soil.
American style fence
To control the horizontal position of the boards between the pillars, we stretch the rope. It will not allow installation curvature and will help to adjust the height of the intersection filling. We drive in intermediate supports, leaving 2-meter voids, we check their verticality with a level.
We attach the crossbars to the supports with nails and self-tapping screws. The product is varnished. We color it at will.
The foundation is the head of everything
Both a powerful stone and a light wooden fence in the country require a solid foundation. With its competent filling and the correct location of the supports, the enclosing structure will protect the site for more than a dozen years. The foundations for the fence are divided into tape and pole. Let's consider each type separately.
Strip foundation
This type of foundation is advisable to fill in the following cases:
We begin work on creating a strip foundation by digging a trench with a depth of 30 to 80 cm. If the soil is unreliable, we go deeper by 1.5 m. We make a “pillow” of sand and gravel, generously pour water and tie the reinforcement. The size of the cell is formed at our discretion.
We erect the formwork so that the fence canvas with the ground surface subsequently separates 30 - 50 cm. We fill the formwork with concrete mortar. In the case of using pillars under the bearing part of the canvas, we place and align the supports even before pouring the foundation.
Pillar option
The post base is an economical solution that perfectly holds light fences. When constructing a wooden fence for a summer residence on a pole foundation, we must process wooden details a special composition that protects the material from decay. At right approach to the construction of a pillar-type foundation, we obtain a high-quality foundation, which is in no way inferior in durability to a tape one.
Photo of the pillar foundation
The filling technology is as follows:
- A drill swarm of pits for load-bearing parts, deepening a meter and a half. We expand the diameter of the holes by 15 - 30 cm in relation to the diameter of the columns. Based on the intended width of the spans, we maintain an interval between supports from 2 to 3 m.
- We create a “pillow” either from pure sand, or from its mixture with crushed stone. Plentifully water a 20-centimeter layer.
- Align the posts in level and fill the holes with cement mortar to the top. The mixture is supplemented with crushed stone as desired.
As a result of our work, cemented pillars were obtained. Now we fill in the spans. We stretch the chain-link mesh immediately. But if the canvas requires stuffing of material, we first fix horizontal guides between the supports (transverse logs, cross-sections).
How to decorate a fence in the country
If you spend a lot of time in the country, you will probably get tired of looking at a boring flat surface enclosing structure, especially deaf and long. Landing along the fence will help to decorate the fence and make it alive climbing plants(according to principle vertical gardening). For this purpose, girlish grapes, actinidia, aromatic hops with beautiful cones are suitable.
Decorating the fence with flowers is a great solution
You can braid the fence and annual plants. Only for their upward movement, it is necessary to take care of the vertical supports in advance, so that the loaches reaching for the sun have something to grab on to.
The visual separation of a long fence is facilitated by decoration with flower beds. Several flower beds are placed equidistantly above the ground and "dilute" the monotonous structure with bright flower stalks.
You can fill the flower beds with shrubs with variegated leaves. It is not forbidden to plant conifers for decorating a deaf fence, but they are sensitive to the bright sun. For this reason, flower beds with them will have to be placed on a shaded section of the fence.
If you have the ability to draw, the fence can be painted by skillfully painting it with bright colors. Next to the fence will look attractive small architectural forms- garden figurines, fountains, swings, gazebos, etc. Turn the fence into a gallery by hanging pictures, posters, crafts along the canvas.
Decking can also be originally decorated
If it is possible to get seeds of bacopa, petunia, lobelia, dichondra, pelargonium or hanging begonia, plant them in pots and hang a strict blank fence with blooming fragrant flower pots. Ampel plants will delight you all summer.
Despite its apparent simplicity, the fence is a rather complex architectural structure. In order for the construction to turn out to be aesthetically attractive and reliable, it is necessary to divide the project into several stages, completing each of them with high quality and accuracy.
The choice of fence design
First you need to define common features future fence. Will it facade construction or a small module resting on the fence of an adjacent site.
When enclosing a cottage with a capital fence, most often they choose options with brickwork or stone.
In order to significantly reduce the load on the foundation, a natural stone combined with polymer elements, mainly on a polycarbonate basis. At the same time, they try to use only solid bricks.
In order to give the masonry the necessary strength, waterproofing is carried out: with an interval of several horizontal rows, a grid with a large cell or reinforced rods is laid.
Fence with a brick base and inserts made of polymer elements
The simplest type of fence is a chain-link fence. It renders minimum pressure on the ground, cheap to maintain, but has low aesthetics.
Chain link fence
Fence structures that combine several materials look more harmonious. Most often, combinations of an array of rubble (in the lower part) and spans of treated boards, corrugated board, colored polycarbonate, fastened with ceramic brick pillars are used.
Pouring the foundation for the fence
Having decided to build a capital fence, before pouring the foundation, it is necessary to conduct geodetic surveys for the presence of groundwater. The choice of the type of foundation depends on the established properties of the soil.
In swampy areas the best option there will be a tape-pillar base, in which, before mounting the tape, mines are drilled in the soil and filled with concrete mortar.
Tape and pole base for the fence
A roofing material is laid between the soil and the foundation, making it difficult for moisture to reach the concrete. The foundation for a brick fence is reinforced with 12 mm reinforcing bars.
Tape-pillar base for the fence after pouring concrete
Installation of fences from corrugated board and chain-link mesh
The next step is the laying of columns and brick spans. Exact number sections are calculated using the "empty seam" method and using preliminary sketches. Fences made of chain-link mesh or profiled sheet are erected using a simpler technology. It is also used for the construction of combined fences.
First, markup is carried out for the bases, which are used as pillars from pipe scraps. For one standard roll of chain-link, 4 posts are enough. Mines are drilled in the ground with a rotary. A depth of 1 meter will be sufficient. The diameter of the drill must be at least two hundred millimeters.
Recesses for pillars-supports for the future fence
For reliable waterproofing, before installing the pillars, rolled polyethylene or roofing material is inserted into the drilled shafts. First of all, the first and last pillars are installed, which are held in the channels by stretch marks. Then rope beacons are pulled from above and below along one side of the pillars.
Important! Usually, when erecting stone and brick fences, mortgages are made in advance in the masonry. These are metal plates installed in an array of masonry. Subsequently, hinges for gates and gates and locking strips are easily welded to them. Also, sleeves cut from plastic pipe rolling are laid in the masonry. Through them it is easy to stretch electric cables that feed street lamps, electric locks and video cameras.
When marking for vertical supports for fences from a profile sheet, it must be borne in mind that the distance between the posts should be from two and a half to three meters. It is recommended to raise the corrugated board slightly above ground level, by about 10 centimeters. This will prevent the occurrence of congestion from snow and rainwater.
Logs are used as transverse support elements for fences made of profiles - cuttings of pipes of small diameter. They give the fence the necessary rigidity and stability.
Logs and supports need to be processed special composition to protect metal from various weather phenomena
For a standard fence, two logs are enough. They are attached to the supporting pillars by welding.
Important! Logs are mounted at a distance of 30 cm from the top edge of the fence and from the edge of the earth. For fences made of corrugated board up to 1.7 m high, two transverse logs are sufficient; for fences from 1.7 to 2 m, it is recommended to install 3 logs.
Sheets of profiles are fastened to the lags with self-tapping screws and overlapped with each other, placing them in one wave.
Fastening corrugated board on logs
Important! To fix the sheets of corrugated board, self-tapping screws 35 mm long with a pitch of 500 mm are used.
Using a level, the pillars of the bases of the future fence from the chain-link mesh are given a strictly vertical position and the shaft is filled with concrete mortar.
After the concrete has hardened, wire guides are pulled between the posts.
Then, with the help of a millimeter wire and pliers, they begin to attach a chain-link web to them.
Learn more about how to install a chain-link fence yourself in the video.
The second way.
The depth of the foundation for combined fences does not exceed 60 centimeters. Support poles up to 120 centimeters high will be a reliable foundation. Screens made of forged gratings or profiles along the perimeter are reinforced with pipe cuts or corners. After installing the support pillars, the screens are hung on steel tabs prudently built into them. On the last step waterproofing tops are installed on the columns.
