How to process garden trees and shrubs in spring. Processing the garden in the fall from pests and diseases: autumn eradicating spraying of fruit trees and berry bushes. How to spray the garden in the fall from diseases and pests: the best remedies

Fruits and berries can be grown independently in the middle and southern strip of the country. But, these plants are often affected by harmful insects and various diseases. It is easy to save a plant, it is enough to spray them with chemicals in the spring, while you need to pay attention to the recommendations of experienced gardeners.

In the supermarket, in the market you can find a lot of fruits. However, their quality leaves much to be desired. This is due to the fact that in order to improve the growth of fruits, the yield of trees, respectively, in order to obtain greater benefits, manufacturers feed the plants with fertilizers or chemicals. Therefore, it is better to grow fruits on your own and use only healthy fresh fruits.

Terms for processing garden plants are different for each region of the country. The first spraying is required to be carried out when the air temperature during the day does not drop below 5 degrees Celsius, and at night below 0 degrees. But, this procedure should not end there. It is imperative to spray the trees 3 more times: before the buds open, the appearance of flowers and the first fruits.

First spraying

1. Dilute 2 kilograms of lime in 10 liters of water.
2. To stir thoroughly.
3. At choice, add 1 kilogram of dry clay or 350 grams of copper sulfate to the resulting solution.
4. Thoroughly mix all the contents again until a homogeneous mass appears.

On a note!

An alternative to a folk remedy are acrylic whitewash, paints or lime pastes. Their cost is slightly higher than the cost of self-preparation of the solution, but it is more efficient and convenient to use.

Before bud break

Repeated spraying should be done immediately before the buds have blossomed. It is, as it were, a fixing result. If, after the initial treatment, the larvae nevertheless hatched, they can become the causative agent of various diseases for trees or shrubs. To avoid this, re-spraying is required. For this you should:

1. Finely grind the tobacco so that it is a powdery consistency.
2. Pour 200 grams of this substance into a glass jar with a volume of 3 liters.
3. Add garlic husks, onions, pine needles and crushed orange peels in equal amounts to the container.
4. Heat water to a temperature of 70 degrees and fill it with the entire contents of the jar.
5. Close the jar tightly with a lid and put it in a dark and cool place for two weeks.

Spray is ready. Before applying it to a tree trunk, you need to additionally dilute it with 10 liters of water and add 100 grams of tar soap shavings. It is required to spray the garden, distributing a thin, but dense layer to each site. An alternative to this remedy are household chemicals such as Aktara or Calypso.

During the appearance of flowers

The third spraying is carried out strictly when the buds on the tree have already appeared, but they have not yet had time to bloom. The purpose of this process is to protect against the appearance of caterpillars, codling moth, reducing the risk of spotting and scab. For this you need:

1. Dilute 70 grams of Carbofox in 10 liters of water at room temperature.
2. Thoroughly mix the components until the active substance is completely dissolved.

During the appearance of the first fruits

• copper oxychloride;
• urea;
• Bordeaux liquid.

All these preparations are of biological type, they do not contain harmful toxic substances. It can be used as one of the listed drugs, they can also be combined with each other. But, when forming fruits, for the purpose of prevention, it is not necessary to spray trees or shrubs. This measure is necessary only when pests are detected.

On a note!

Before you start spraying, you need to observe the weather conditions, there must be an optimal level of humidity. If this procedure is carried out in wet weather, then there is a high probability of a chemical burn on the leaves or fruits of the plant.

Rules

It is worth observing the basic rules of hygiene. Equipment used for spraying should be thoroughly rinsed and dried. Work should be strictly in a mask, goggles and thick gloves to protect the skin, respiratory organs and vision from burns, as well as to avoid poisoning with toxic substances. After finishing gardening work, you need to change into clean clothes, wash your hands thoroughly and wash your faces with soap and water.

Description of spraying agents

In household stores or in departments for summer cottages and gardens, chemicals for treating plants are sold in an assortment. But, experienced gardeners recommend processing with the safest substance with a minimum content of toxic substances, which is an important indicator for a fruit tree. These agents include Bordeaux liquid, iron or copper sulfate, urea.

Bordeaux liquid

Bordeaux liquid is one of the effective preparations used in the garden or vegetable garden. They are treated with fruit trees in the spring to prevent or destroy pests or diseases. It is difficult to confuse it with another remedy, since a bright blue color serves as a characteristic feature.

Bordeaux liquid can be purchased ready-made at a gardening store. A 3% solution is suitable for spraying trees. You can also prepare it yourself by mixing blue vitriol with lime.

inkstone

Iron vitriol is most often used to save or treat various diseases in such fertile trees as apple, plum, pear or cherry. If we compare it with Bordeaux liquid, then it is less effective. But, among other possible substances for preparing a solution, it is a rightful leader.

Another useful property of iron sulfate is the saturation of plant crops with useful substances necessary for normal growth and improved yields. You can buy the main component at a household store; 3% vitriol is suitable for garden land. Before use, it should be diluted with water, according to the instructions.

blue vitriol

Copper sulphate is also actively used as a pest control agent. But, in fact, its effectiveness is not so high. It is possible to achieve a good effect from its use only if you add an insecticide to the solution, or alternate spraying with it.

It should be borne in mind that both of these substances are very toxic and can cause poisoning and severe burns. Therefore, before starting work, you should take care of elementary measures to protect the eyes, skin and respiratory organs. It should be prevented from entering this substance into water bodies or containers with water. This is very dangerous, the ingress of water into the body can lead to severe poisoning of people or other living individuals with toxic substances.

On a note!

It is impossible to allow a glut of copper sulphate plants. This can lead to his death or illness. The optimal dosage for preparing the solution is 100 grams of the substance per 10 liters of water.

Urea

Another powerful remedy for protecting trees and shrubs from all types of pests and the process of decay is urea. In addition, it saturates the fruit land with nitrogen, which stimulates its growth. Processing is carried out strictly in the spring, when the trees are in a calm state.

To prepare a spray solution, dilute 500 to 700 grams of urea in 10 liters of water and mix the contents thoroughly. To enhance the effectiveness of this remedy, you can add 50 grams of copper sulfate. Urea itself is not toxic. Therefore, you can work with it without serious protection.

In early spring, it is required to process fruit trees in order to save them from diseases and pest damage. This procedure is simple and you get used to it. But, beginners may have problems. Gardeners recommend paying attention to three nuances: the order of spraying, the time and conditions for the implementation of work, and the correct calculation of the amount of solution. Attention deserves the care of stone and seed plants.

Spray order

Before processing a tree, it is required to remove it from “unwinding” it from winter protection. After that, you should inspect the tree or bush, removing all surface contamination from it. Only then can you proceed to the spraying process. Starting from the crown, ending with the root zone, you need to spray the entire trunk and each branch, this is the only way to have a good treatment effect.

Time and conditions for the implementation of work

It is better to protect the fruit plant from diseases in the spring. Plant species are more susceptible in the morning, so you need to start work before lunch. Be sure to check the weather forecast the day before. The day should not be hot, but dry, without precipitation and strong wind. Only in this case, the active substance will quickly be absorbed into the tree bark and begin to act almost immediately.

Correct calculation of the amount of solution

Be sure to read the instructions attached to each substance before starting the crime. The solution must be made in strict accordance with it. With an insufficient amount of the active substance, the solution will not work, with an excess of it, it will harm the plant culture. By default, the correct calculation table looks like this.

Garden processing in spring stone fruit trees

In the spring, it is required to carefully treat stone fruit plants from diseases and pests. It is recommended to do this before and after the moment of flowering. The safest solution is based on copper oxychloride at a concentration of 90%. To prepare a sprayer, 40 grams of this substance is required to be dissolved in 10 liters of water. They can be treated for the prevention or treatment of diseases, both trees and bushes.

An alternative to this tool is the ready-made sprayer "Skor". It has a similar composition, so it is non-toxic and safe. To prepare the solution, dilute 3 grams of this substance in 10 liters of water at room temperature and mix the contents thoroughly. Trees can be treated with them strictly after the onset of flowering.

pome care

Pome crops also deserve attention. They are more exposed to various pathogenic microorganisms, such as scab or rot. The savior in this case will be a 7% solution of urea. Processing should be carried out in the spring.

Garden processing equipment

As the main processing equipment, any device that is convenient for the gardener to work with can be used: a garden sprayer, a can or a pump. Rinse and dry thoroughly before and after use. From additional inventory may come in handy:

• whitewash brush for processing individual areas or small shrubs;
• electric pump for the care of a large garden plantation.

Each tool must be kept in perfect cleanliness. If pollution accumulates on it, then there is a high risk of developing an infection, which, together with the solution, will penetrate into the bark of the fruit or berry land. For the treatment of undersized plants, you can create a sprayer yourself from a plastic bottle of any size and a liquid ejector.

Safety regulations

Any work requires compliance with safety measures. When spraying trees, it is worth considering what the solution is made of, whether this substance is toxic and take the necessary measures to protect the eyes, respiratory organs, hair and skin. It is necessary to study the instructions attached to the component, and prepare the solution in strict observance with it.

Lovers of fresh berries or fruits in spring need to take care of preparing the garden for the new season. A measure is the spraying of horticultural crops to prevent the appearance of pests and diseases. Various preparations can be used as the main components for creating a solution, but in all cases it is required to follow the instructions for creating a solution and safety rules.

Autumn has come: the end of the summer season is just around the corner. It's time to start preparing the dacha for winter, in particular, to carry out an autumn eradication spraying of the garden from diseases and pests.

It is believed that the autumn eradication of the garden from diseases and pests should be carried out just after the fall, when the plants completely go into a dormant state: its buds will “close” and become inaccessible to powerful and strong solutions that you will spray them with.

However, there is an opinion that the goal of eradicating autumn processing, on the contrary, consists in destroying the leaves before they themselves turn completely yellow and fall off.

At the same time, you should not be afraid that the kidneys will burn out from such a solution, because at this time they are already ready for anything.

The fact is that, just the same, applying powerful and strong doses of solutions to the foliage should lead to the destruction of pests and diseases while still on the plant, that is, before the leaves fall to the ground and the pathogens hide in the soil (go into the ground to an inaccessible depth, where they overwinter and begin their harmful activity in the spring).

By the way! Once the treated leaves are on the ground, they can be quite successfully composted for iron fortification or left on the ground (as mulch). But this is in case the plants hurt slightly. If there were a lot of diseases, then it is better to burn the leaves, and use the ashes as fertilizing with iron.

However, if you use copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid for processing, then you should no longer put it in compost.

In addition, such processing of the garden (before leaf fall, in order to destroy foliage) will ensure much better wintering of plants.

How it works?

Premature damage to the leaves (introducing them into a stressful situation) gives a signal to the plant that winter is coming, which means it's time to actively prepare for the onset of frost.

Incidentally, this processing speeds up the ripening of grape vines, branches of currants, shoots of roses and other plants.

Thus, it is necessary to process the garden even on a leaf 2-3 weeks before the start of natural leaf fall, but strictly after the end of fruiting and harvesting.

Warning! Do not be alarmed if after 2-3 days all the leaves turn black and look burnt. This is exactly what the effect should be - the leaves should “burn out”.

The black color is not only the color of dying leaves, but also the fact that the bark of the branches is encrusted with iron salts, which will protect it for some time from the penetration of various pathogens.

In other words, the approximate timing of the eradication spraying of the garden in the fall is the second half of September-October. In the Urals and Siberia - first of all, a little later - in the Middle lane (Moscow region), and in the South - at the very end of autumn.

Note! In any case, it is necessary to have time to spray before frost, because. most products work only at positive temperatures (usually +5 degrees).

How to spray a garden in autumn: rules and recommendations for processing trees and shrubs

Before starting the autumn processing of the garden, you should familiarize yourself with the basic rules and recommendations for the preparation and direct spraying of plants.

So, let's start with the point of preparing for the eradication spraying of the garden:

• If you spray after leaf fall, then shortly before the procedure it is recommended remove all plant debris (leaves, twigs) from under the trees.

If the tree did not hurt, then they can be thrown on a compost heap. But if it hurts, then you need to burn it or bury it very deeply.

• The treatment should be carried out on a fine day (in dry and calm weather), and it should be sprayed in the morning so that the leaves and bark are already dry by the evening.

If the rain will quickly wash everything away, then spraying will be useless. It is very good if the solution is held on the tree for at least 2-3 days.

Advice! If it rains, and after them they promise a drop in temperature to minus values, then the plants will have to be left without autumn processing until spring. Unless, if a “window” with a plus and without rain suddenly appears.

• and very poorly soluble in water(although iron is better). That's why first vitriol should be diluted in a small amount of warm water(40 degrees), and then pour through the filter into the sprayer and then dilute to the desired concentration with cold water.

Important! Ferrous and copper sulphate should only be diluted or dissolved in glass or plastic containers but no way not in metal.

• Do not forget to filter the solution when pouring into the sprayer(especially if the product is sparingly soluble). As a rule, you should have special mesh. If there is no such grid, then strain can we say through tights or gauze.

Rules for direct spraying the garden:

Don't forget about security measures. Before spraying, put on a special mask, goggles and rubber gloves. Even better if you have a special bathrobe.

• Autumn spraying should be as thorough as possible, and not only the crown and all branches of the tree are subject to processing (especially for old trees with cracked bark), but also the soil in the trunk circle. However, you should not process lawn grass that grows next to a tree (alternatively, you can throw a film on the ground under the tree before processing).

If you decide to process the plants before leaf fall, then, of course, the leaves need to be sprayed on both sides.

• Ideally, if during spraying you create a whole cloud of solution, similar to fog.
• If you are near fruit trees conifers grow, then the processing must be done very carefully, trying not to fall on them, especially if the garden was sick and you are using a strong solution that can burn evergreens.

Note! If you processed the garden in the fall, this does not mean that it is not necessary. More as needed! Autumn eradication spraying is virtually the same.

Video: autumn eradication spraying

What plants to process in the fall

Let's answer briefly: it is desirable to spray absolutely all adult fruit trees (apple trees, pears, cherries, cherries, plums, apricots, peaches), berry bushes (raspberries, currants, gooseberries, strawberries,) and other ornamental plants and flowers (roses, hydrangeas, phlox, delphinium).

Important! For autumn processing evergreen shrubs(rhododendron, heather, pieris) the concentration should be reduced to 2% if with iron sulphate, and up to 1% if with copper sulphate or Bordeaux liquid.

• Young seedlings of trees and shrubs planted this spring should not be processed - it is better to wait until next year and spend it.

• Flowering plants are sprayed after they have faded or already at the end of flowering, and fruit-bearing plants - after harvesting.

However, if the plant did not hurt at all, then the treatment can be carried out either purely prophylactically (in the minimum dose), or not carried out at all.

How to spray the garden in the fall from diseases and pests: the best remedies

Compared to spring treatments, the choice of products for autumn garden spraying is not so great, but in any case, you should familiarize yourself with the most effective products suitable for uprooting.

inkstone

It is perhaps the most popular means for the autumn uprooting of the garden.

Also he (iron vitriol) helps to get rid of mosses and lichens(in theory, after processing, they will die and fall off the bark themselves).

Natural spraying will enrich soil and plant iron.

By the way! More about the use of iron sulphate in horticulture read

Some gardeners believe that it works against harmful insects that overwinter in the bark.

However! There is an opinion that it is useless to fight pests during the eradication spraying in autumn, because. they themselves die, but all the eggs have long been laid, the larvae pupated and hid.

What concentration of urea solution is needed to process the garden?

Dose first of all depends on if your plants got sick this year and how severe the infestation was:

Important! The concentration does not depend on age.

• if the trees and shrubs were not sick (the garden was “clean”) - 300 grams per 10 liters of water;
• if sick - 500-700 grams per 10 liters of water.

Note! Indeed, which in the autumn period can provoke the growth of shoots, but due to the fact that the treatment is carried out shortly before the first frosts, urea will not cause any effect other than “eradicating” (fungicidal and insecticidal).

The perfect combination: iron sulfate + urea

To increase the effectiveness of the eradicating autumn treatment of the garden, it is very desirable to mix urea and, having prepared a kind of tank mixture.

That is, for example, in 10 liters of water dissolve 300-500 grams of urea and 200-500 grams of iron sulfate.

By the way! Urea is just the same for sure will act against the larvae of harmful insects.

Video: autumn processing of trees and shrubs with iron sulfate and urea

It will be even better if you use the recipe for autumn eradication treatment from popular YouTube channel Procvetok, namely (recipe for 10 liters of water): initially dissolve 20-30 grams of citric acid in water (to keep iron sulfate in an unoxidized state, so it will be more effective), then add 300-500 g of iron sulfate, 500-700 g urea (urea) and 3-4 tbsp. spoons (50 ml) of liquid soap or dishwashing detergent (for better adhesion on leaves and branches) and top up with the required amount of water (up to 10 liters).

• It is required to use citric acid, and not any vinegar or something similar.
• The same goes for liquid soap or dishwashing detergent, i.e. laundry or green soap is not suitable.

blue vitriol

Another excellent and inexpensive fungicide for the autumn processing of fruit crops and berry bushes.

In general, the spectrum of action is similar to iron vitriol, except that you cannot definitely defeat mosses and lichens with the help of such spraying.

However! In autumn, as a rule, it is used precisely, and not copper (its spring).

The fact is that an excess of copper is not good (even toxic in a sense), while an excess of iron is not dangerous and is even beneficial for plants (within reasonable limits).

The consumption of copper sulfate for the preparation of a working solution for autumn spraying:

• if the trees and shrubs did not hurt or practically did not hurt - 100-200 grams per 10 liters of water;
• if sick - 300 grams per 10 liters of water.

Bordeaux mixture

In other words, spraying the garden with Bordeaux liquid (similar to copper sulphate) helps in the prevention and control of other blotches, as well as powdery mildew, various rots, including.

You can buy ready-made Bordeaux mixture either. For example, for a 3% solution, you will need to take 300 grams of copper sulfate and 400-450 grams of lime. Copper sulfate is dissolved in 5 liters of warm water, then lime is dissolved in a separate bucket (in 5 liters). Then, in a thin stream, constantly stirring, the vitriol is poured into the lime solution.

The required concentration of the solution of Bordeaux mixture when processing the garden in the fall:

• if the plants did not get sick - 1% (100 grams of copper sulfate and 100-150 grams of lime per 10 liters);
• there was an infection - 3% (300 grams of copper sulfate and 400-450 grams of lime per 10 liters).

Important! Do not be afraid if, after treatment with Bordeaux liquid, your garden has become blue. It's simple: the solution has a bluish color due to the presence of copper, and keeps on the branches thanks to lime. Sometimes such spraying is called "blue".

Video: spraying trees in the fall - a scheme and means, when and with what preparations to be treated

What else can you spray trees and shrubs in the fall

It's worth understanding! There is no point in treating with the preparations that you used in spring and summer, because. they are intended for processing on foliage, and autumn eradicating spraying is carried out precisely after leaf fall. Although, if you decontaminate before it falls, then there is a certain sense, as it were, but in general it is useless.

However, some summer residents process their fruit trees and shrubs in more sophisticated ways, for example, by making a tank mix based on "Quick"

Thus, if you timely and correctly carry out the autumn eradication of the garden from pests and diseases, then next year you can expect a repeat of success.

Note! In autumn, only one eradicating spraying is carried out. It is not necessary to treat the plants with all the preparations at once and several times. That is, for example, it is enough to treat only with urea and.

Video: eradicating the garden in the fall from diseases and pests

In contact with

Every summer resident knows how important it is to carry out seasonal processing of fruit crops from diseases and pests. It is especially important to do this in the spring. Such an event can prevent the invasion of harmful insects, prevent the appearance of pathogenic microbes, which in turn ensures good yields. Therefore, many gardeners are interested in the question of when it is possible to spray fruit trees from pests.

When to process

Treatment and preventive work should begin in early spring.

• When warm dry weather sets in, the air temperature will be at least 6 ° C (late March - early April, but depends on the region, it is better after the snow has melted). At this time, insect pests begin to wake up, pathogens of fungal infections (scab, rot, moniliosis) spread.
• It is necessary to remove the garden from the remaining foliage, grass, before irrigating fruit trees, bushes. To do this, remove winter covering materials, cut off diseased, damaged, old branches, burn all plant debris. You also need to dig up the trunk circles and whitewash the trunks, skeletal branches.
• Trees older than 6 years are cleaned of ancient bark, moss, lichen. Such manipulations allow plants to breathe better, stimulate the emergence of new shoots, and increase their regenerative functions.
• After carrying out the preparatory measures, spring processing of trees and shrubs begins.

The procedures are carried out in several stages:

• until the moment when the kidneys swell;
• before the flowering of plants (so that the inflorescences do not die, the concentration of drugs is made weak);
• the last spraying is carried out at the end of May, after the trees stop blooming, fruits begin to set. Therefore, the answer to the question of how trees can be sprayed during the flowering period from pests is obvious - nothing.

Important! During the flowering of the garden, it is unacceptable to use insecticides, fungicides. You can take bio-substances that will stimulate the formation of fruits or use folk methods. The drug ovary is usually used.

Spraying fruit trees from pests

Processing tools

Each gardener chooses his own garden protection methods. Today it is not difficult, because there are a large number of disinfectants, medicinal preparations suitable for different periods.

Note! All solutions must be prepared before use, otherwise they can damage the plants while remaining harmless to insects.

How to spray trees and shrubs in the spring from pests? Ready-made store or folk remedies are suitable.

Chemical compositions

Such substances are considered the most effective, since:

• act quickly;
• perfectly soluble in water;
• the effect persists for a long time;
• each substance has its own decomposition period;
• can be used at low temperatures: from 5°C.

Thus, the first treatments are best done by them.

Among the variety of ways to treat fruit trees in early spring from diseases and pests, the most common are:

diesel fuel

It must be used at a certain time and extremely carefully, otherwise you can destroy the plants. Be sure to wear gloves, closed clothing, a respirator.

They begin to spray the trees when there is still snow left in some places, and there are no buds on the branches. In autumn, it is recommended to carry out the procedure, after all the leaves have fallen, the first frosts will come.

diesel fuel

Such an oil product cannot be used in its pure form. It should be diluted in a large amount of water, adding any other substances that neutralize the harmful effects of diesel fuel.

You can make this mixture. Its concentration will be no more than 50%:

• solarium - 10 parts;
• water - 9 parts;
• laundry soap, grated - 1 part.

blue vitriol

It is used no more than 2 times a year. The first spraying is done in early spring before the buds appear, otherwise all young foliage may die.

The tool is also used if there are cracks on the trees that need to be disinfected.

Important! Plants must be sprayed again at the end of October. This will protect fruit crops from scab, phylostecosis, moniliosis, clusteroporosis, and curliness.

A young tree (no more than 6 years old) needs 2 liters of the mixture, an adult specimen - 10 liters. Prepare such a composition for primary processing: copper sulfate, lime (0.3 kg per 10 liters of water). Everything is mixed together, insisted for 48 hours. Then they boil for 45 minutes, filter, add 1 bucket of water.

blue vitriol

For the next irrigation, the same substances will be needed, only in reduced quantities (0.1 kg per 10 liters of water). Repeat all manipulations according to the previous scheme.

inkstone

If the garden is filled with old fruit trees, then spraying is carried out in early spring and late autumn (300 g per 10 liters of water). The substance successfully fights cytosporosis, septosporosis, black cancer, harmful insects, mosses, lichens. Helps increase fruit yield and enriches plants with iron.

Bordeaux liquid

It is used when there are unblown buds on the branches. Make a solution: dry vitriol (50 g), lime (0.2 kg), water (1 bucket). All ingredients are mixed and pollinated trees.

Bordeaux liquid

Preparation 30

Experienced gardeners are advised to spray the trees with a solution in early spring or late autumn (0.2 liters of substance per 10 liters of water). It will help get rid of aphids, whiteflies, leafworms, mites and other insects wintering in the bark of trees.

Note! Substance 30 is very effective, it can be used no more than 1 time in 3 seasons.

Urea

Trunks and branches are treated with it 1 week after the completion of the flowering of fruit crops, as well as in the pre-winter period.

To spray the trees in spring, you should take urea (0.5 kg), copper sulfate (1 matchbox), water (10 l).

The autumn composition is made after the plants shed half of the foliage (0.25 kg of substance per 10 liters of water). But you can process trees when the leaves fall off completely. Then the solution is made more saturated (8%). In this case, both the plant and the soil are irrigated. In addition, the tool will fertilize the earth.

Urea

Separately, it is worth noting the old proven tools.

• Spark (10 ml per 1 liter of water). Apply after the plants have flowered. The product protects the garden from sucking, gnawing insects, codling moths, leafworms, scoops, sawflies, and other pests.
• Karbofos (90 g per 10 liters of water - for fruit trees and 70 g - berry bushes) will protect plants from caterpillars, aphids, mites, weevils, codling moths, scale insects. The first time is sprayed when the buds open, the second time before the onset of flowering.

Important! Plants should be treated in dry sunny weather. The rain will wash away all the substances, and the work will be done in vain.

Biological control measures

Recently, these methods of dealing with pests and diseases have become increasingly popular. They have a number of advantages:

• do not accumulate in the soil, fruits;
• do not burn plants;
• they can be used in small quantities.

Flaws:

• act slowly;
• used at temperatures above 10°C.

The most famous of them:

• trichodermin is used during the period of appearance of the kidneys (effectively fights scab, various types of rot);
• pentaphage protects against perforated spotting, bacterial cancer;
• planriz against powdery mildew, brown rust, lepidoptera pests;
• phytodoctor prevents late blight, fusarium, root rot;
• phytosporin M suppresses fungal, bacterial infections;
• gaupsin - a universal drug against diseases, insects;
• Mikosan forms a thin film on trees from pathogenic microorganisms.

Folk remedies

Many owners of summer cottages use ecological methods to protect fruit crops. They can be used simultaneously with chemicals (at any time). Launched:

• various types of weeds (celandine, wormwood);
• spicy herbs: dill, thyme, horseradish, fennel;
• coniferous needles;
• tomato, potato tops;
• chamomile, nettle;
• salt, mustard powder;
• garlic, hot pepper.

Here are some recipes.

• Wormwood (400 g per 10 liters of water). Boil for 30 minutes, add 40 g of green or laundry soap, and then spray the trees.
• Chamomile infusion (200 g per 1 liter of water). Leave for 10 - 12 hours, and then drain the resulting solution. Pour the remaining herbal mass with 5 liters of water and leave for another 13 hours. Combine both compositions and spray the crown.
• Pepper is bitter. An infusion is prepared (1 kg of fruit per 10 liters of water). Leave for 48 hours. The resulting mass is boiled for 1 hour, cooled and poured into containers with tight lids. Use as needed throughout the season. Laundry soap is added before irrigation (80 g per 1 bucket of water).
• Tansy. Herbal powder (0.7 kg per 10 liters of boiling water) is infused for 4 days, then boiled for 15 minutes, filtered and added to 1 bucket of water. Fruit plantations are processed several times a season.

Processing in summer and autumn

Fruit trees must be processed throughout the growing season. Therefore, when summer comes, you need to continue pest control. Do not use chemicals during this period. It is better to use hunting belts, liquid sweet baits where insects will flock. You also need to collect carrion.

With the advent of autumn garden work continues. After leaf fall, fallen leaves are removed, damaged branches are cut off, trapping belts are removed, trunk circles are dug up, trunks and skeletal branches are whitened. They also get rid of dead bark, burn plant debris, pest nests. Trees are treated with the same preparations as in spring.

Spraying the garden in the spring is one of the main agricultural activities. But, unfortunately, not everyone knows about it. Many owners of personal plots approach this process in the spring formally, not really thinking about the main essence of the agronomic procedure. In this case, spraying the garden in the spring can turn into a merciless and pointless exercise. Everyone probably understands the great desire to protect your garden from various diseases and pests. In the conditions of central Russia, fruit and berry crops are constantly threatened by at least 60-70 species of various insect pests, and about 20 species of infectious diseases. People have in their hands effective methods of dealing with them. But in this case, food and the environment can become dangerous for the person himself. Finding a balance is the main task of spring work. In this article, we decided to tell you about how to spray the garden in early spring from diseases and pests. All the means that we present here will be effective and, moreover, safe for the person himself.

Some extremes at the time of spraying

Refusal to process.

It should be recognized that the complete absence of large-scale preventive irrigation is far from the worst option. Naturally, this will be more reasonable than excess.

• You can relax a little if your garden is still young and has not yet been able to accumulate many different harmful substances and organisms.
• In your garden, you can plant resistant and unpretentious varieties. There are scab-free apple trees, problem-free roses, gooseberries without a sphere library, blackcurrants without red-headed aphids and mites, and strawberries without gray rot.
• It is necessary to constantly carry out various agrotechnical works (pruning, thinning, deoxidation, digging, mulching, fertilizing the soil, setting traps, etc.)
• It is very useful with the onset of spring and until the beginning of autumn to spray trees with various simulators and biological preparations: Zircon, Gumi, Epin, biopesticides Strobi and Fitoferon, microbiological preparations such as Fitosparin.
• Many proponents of organic farming may simply give up if a large number of crops are constantly dying in their garden. In this case, there is only one way out: finding a compromise, namely, causing minimal harm while obtaining the maximum benefit. It is necessary to reduce the number of diseases and pests, not forgetting the environment.

All at once

How to spray the garden in the spring before blooming from everything? This question can be heard in the spring in every garden store. Even the simplest question from some sensible salesperson: Do you need a pest or disease control? May cause a stupor in the buyer. Of course, some seller can sell the coveted product, to the great delight of the buyer. As we can see: there will be two results. And they are both, unfortunately, disappointing:

• There is practically no effect from processing.
• The garden will accumulate poisons.

Despite any advertising that is very convincing at first glance and our employment, it is necessary to stop for a couple of minutes and try to face the truth: there is no one super-ideal drug and the timing of spraying the garden in the spring from pests and diseases.

Spring is a loose concept

In many garden recommendations, it is necessary to divide the seasons into natural and calendar. For carrying out agrotechnical work, two main natural indicators are important (in different regions of our country, the dates will differ by a month or more) - the stage of development and the air temperature in the garden in spring:

• Until the kidneys swell.
• Budding.
• Bloom.
• Green cone - the beginning of the appearance of leaves.
• Young ovaries.

Such a concept as spring spraying is very conditional, since there is no clear boundary between the summer and spring periods. But still, two important stages can be determined: the treatment of plants before the buds swell on them and the period after this event (when buds appear and leaves are advanced).

When, how and with what to spray the garden from diseases and pests

The earliest time is the dormant bud phase. The very first spraying should be carried out in early spring at low temperatures in the garden (+3, +6 degrees, or slightly higher). But this must be done before the buds swell, still on dormant plants. Almost everywhere there is a different speed of snow melting and the height of its cover. Yes, besides, cultures wake up after winter at different times. Based on this, sometimes it is not possible to meet one particular day. Honeysuckle and black currants begin to wake up quite early from winter sleep. but as for strawberries, sheltered grapes and roses, these crops can be under snow cover for a long time.

Plant exceptions.

Which garden plants can not be sprayed in a given period of time.

• Honeysuckle very rarely gets sick and practically does not suffer from pests.
• The same goes for blackberries.
• In the event that modern blackcurrant varieties are planted in your backyard that are not susceptible to bud mites and powdery mildew, then there is no point in spraying in early spring.
• It is not necessary to spray fungicides also on those varieties of gooseberries that endure the sphere library.
• In many household plots, sea buckthorn is also not susceptible to diseases.
• If serious problems do not appear on your pears in the garden every year, then they also do not need to be processed.
• If your garden used to have good and prosperous years, then you will not need protection from diseases for those varieties of apple trees that have endurance to moniliosis and immunity to scab.

Many perennial flowers and ornamental shrubs require an individual approach.

One of the most important points is the identification of a number of problem-free plants that do not require additional care: for a person, saving his personal time, money and effort. And most importantly, the benefit to the environment. Chemical treatment of the garden should be carried out at real risk.

Spray coverage

In this article, you can also learn about when to spray the garden from pests in the spring. Until the buds swell, fruit trees and berry plants (gooseberries, plums, strawberries, raspberries, cherries, cherry plums, cherries, apricots, peaches and grapes), flower beds and a rose garden need to be processed. In a given period of time, this impact will mainly be aimed at protecting against various diseases, and partly at pests that are still sleeping at this time.

What should be treated: optimal spraying methods

Hot water.

Having brought a bucket of water to a boil, you must immediately pour it into a watering can and water the blackberry and currant bushes of any color. This procedure can partially destroy some types of wintering diseases and pests. Water with a temperature of +65 degrees must be poured over strawberry bushes from a watering can.

"Blue spray": Bordeaux liquid.

This event is very old. It was invented almost two centuries ago. But to this day it is the most effective and useful. It is directed against almost all bacterial and fungal infections on the soil surface and on all crops. This procedure is carried out using a strong Bordeaux liquid (at a concentration of approximately 3% (but not one percent, as for green foliage). In the instructions for this drug, you can find inconsistencies in the ratio of copper sulfate and lime in solution. This is due to the fact that the original recipe used quicklime, but now they use slaked lime (or calcium hydroxide).The latter requires much more.Once you have purchased Bordeaux mixture, it is best to follow the enclosed instructions exactly. about the preparation of a one percent solution.As for a three percent solution, in this case it is necessary to reduce the amount of water by a factor of three.If you purchase the necessary ingredients yourself, you should take 100 grams of quicklime and copper sulfate for 3 liters of water.An alternative to this drug is Burgundy liquid The solution must be prepared similarly to Bordeaux liquid, only for the place of lime neo it is necessary to use soda (food or soda). In rare cases, a spoonful of sugar or soap should be added. In addition, there is an option where soda is replaced with ammonia or mustard powder. Next, you need to give the resulting mixture a little boil. After that, processing should be carried out immediately.

Drug 30+.

The official manufacturer is NPF Sober. This drug is vaseline oil, which was previously used to combat the scale insect in early spring in the Krasnodar Territory. As a result, it turned out that this remedy does not pose any danger to humans, but it disrupts the breathing of insects that hibernate on the branches of trees and shrubs. After spraying in the spring, both scale insects and other insects and their larvae wintering in crowns die. One liter of this drug must be diluted in 2 buckets of water and then sprinkled with the resulting solution on the garden, spending about one liter per bush and up to 5 liters per large tree. This tool is very dangerous for bees.

More spring spraying options

Not sure at what temperature you can spray your garden in spring? Then it is worth saying that they do it in early autumn. In the spring, a strong solution of urea is also used (600 g per bucket). Sometimes copper sulphate (50g) is added. Iron sulfate is also used for spraying. It is often used to control moss and lichen, and also against diseases on roses, vines, and fruit trees. One kg of iron sulfate must be dissolved in 20 liters of water.

The two remedies described above are very scalding. And many gardeners advise using them not in early spring, but in late autumn. In addition, treatment with these preparations in the spring can delay the blooming of buds in the garden for a week or two.

On a note! Many agronomists do not recommend the use of folk remedies such as diesel fuel, salt or kerosene. Particular attention should be paid to Nitrofen. This remedy has long been recognized as a dangerous carcinogen. It was banned for use in most countries of the world, including our country.

Spraying at the stage of bud break and bud extension

In order to find out how to spray the garden in the spring before bud break, you must carefully read this article. Here you can see a lot of interesting things for yourself. Now it is worth reporting those spraying rules that apply at the stage of bud break and bud formation. During this period of time, many harmful organisms, both small and large, gradually wake up from hibernation. If the spring is rainy and cool, then this will contribute to the development of various diseases. And if the weather is sunny and warm, then insects begin to appear.

Spraying against diseases (fungicides)

Preparations with copper.

For complete processing it is not too late to use the Bordeaux mixture - only at a concentration of 1%. Grapes, flowers, apple and pear trees, plums, cherries in early spring must be processed with HOM or Abiga-Peak.

Biopreparations.

Many gardeners in the spring time are engaged in the first two treatments, using drugs such as Alirin (fruit trees, strawberries), phytosporin (they process everything), Fitolavin (apple trees). This group also includes such a tool as Strobi. The drug is a fungicide of natural origin. it is applied on a pear and an apple-tree at the beginning of its vegetation.

Drug Prognosis (and other drugs with propiconazole).

Products of identical composition: Agrolekar, Forecast, Propi Plus, Chistoflor. These drugs are modern fungicides that are not very toxic. They carry out the processing of berries in the budding phase: raspberries, strawberries (from gray rot), gooseberries, currants.

Chistotsvet (and other products with difenoconazole).

Similar content is represented by drugs such as Raek, Chistotsvet, Keeper, Skor, Diskor, Plantenol. They are used on stone fruit and pome fruits, as well as on roses and other flowers.

Topaz (Penconazole).

In spring, Topaz is a preventive measure for powdery mildew on flowers, gooseberries and currants.

Thiovit Jet.

This drug protects currants, roses and apple trees from powdery mildew.

Horus.

It is used for the processing of grapes and all stone and pome crops. Not very dangerous for birds, bees and people.

Spraying against pests (insecticides)

In this phase, biological insecticides are practically useless: since during this period of time there are neither caterpillars, nor aphids, nor spider mites. It makes sense to use poison only if a large number of pests were observed in the past year (raspberry beetle, weevil, sea buckthorn fly, leafworms, codling moths, etc.). spraying at the time of flowering is impossible.

Poisons are pyrethroids.

These are Spark Double Effect, Inta-Vir, Decis, Kinmiks.

Organophosphate poison (malathion).

These are Iskra M, Fufanon, Karbofos.

Double poisons.

This is Inta-CM, Alatar,

Copper preparations are advised to be used separately. And other fungicides can be mixed with pesticides.

Finally

Today, thanks to this article, you were able to learn how to spray trees in the garden in spring. We hope that these measures will be able to protect your garden from all sorts of pests and diseases. As a result of these activities, your garden will be able to bring you a rich harvest of delicious fruits.

Spring cultivation of the garden is of great importance in the fight against diseases and pests of plants. Since at this time there is an opportunity to destroy pests in the bud, as well as to prevent the reproduction of harmful bacteria and fungi to the maximum extent possible, to stop the spread of viruses.

Many naively believe that a single spray will be enough. But it's not. Comprehensive measures are needed, including the treatment of fruit and berry bushes and trees with special preparations in at least four stages.

In this material, I will also talk about popular remedies and preparations, and give step-by-step instructions for the competent preparation of the garden in the spring months.

In the very early spring, preferably before the snow melts, inspect your garden and carry out the following activities:

1.1. Inspect the condition of the trunks of fruit trees for peeling bark. Clean damaged areas with a metal brush;

Step 1. Garden preparation in spring - inspection and cleaning

1.2. Inspect the condition of the branches of berry bushes. In early spring, before the buds swell, shed the trunk part of the bushes with boiling water (+ 70-90 ° C,);

1.3. To identify the presence of nests of overwintering insects, large cracks, hollows usually serve to lay eggs of harmful insects for the winter. It is necessary to clean and eliminate all this (burn).

Step 2. Trimming

Pruning is carried out in early spring, before the start of sap flow of plants. Necessary:

2.1. Carry out either sanitary or aesthetic pruning of the crowns of trees and shrubs;

2.2. Buy a new good secateurs - the main working tool of the gardener;

2.3. It is necessary to use well-sharpened garden tools - secateurs and loppers, to prevent biting of twigs and torn pruning;

2.4. Treat the pruning sites with garden pitch. Currently, garden pitch is produced in aerosol form, which makes it convenient to use.

Step 3. Cleaning up plant residues

3.1. The main cleaning of fallen leaves should be carried out in the fall, not left in the winter. Fertilized female insect pests go into the soil and hibernate there under fallen leaves, plant debris, falling into diapause, withstanding temperatures down to -30 ° C. Abandoned leaves and debris are also favorable wintering grounds for rodents.

3.2. In the spring, carefully remove the remains of foliage, cut and fallen branches.

Step 4. Digging in the trunk circles

This is a traditional spring stage of mandatory work, which allows you to improve the aeration of the soil in a simple way. Performed immediately after defrosting. If digging is carried out together with plant residues, because supporters of organic farming leave leaves, grass, hay in the trunk circles, then they are a must treat with carbamide (urea) 0.5 kg. for 10 l. water or a bacterial preparation that accelerates the maturation of compost, otherwise they will become a breeding ground for pests.

Step 5. Whitewash

5.1. Whitewashing should be carried out in the fall in order to protect against fungal infections, lichens, and pest larvae. In the spring, whitewashing is carried out to a greater extent with an aesthetic and preventive purpose.

5.2. For whitewashing use a special garden whitewash, which includes fungicides and adhesive additives. Available in dry form or in the form of a paste, which is diluted with water before use. Recently popular acrylic garden paint, which has moisture-proof properties and allows you to stay on the trees longer. The composition of acrylic whitewash also contains active substances and fungicides.

5.3. Previously, lime was used for these purposes. A homemade whitewash mixture was made from lime, water, clay and blue vitriol. Today, gardeners refuse this composition, because lime, due to its alkaline properties, causes serious harm to the bark of a tree, and, together with insects and larvae, destroys the natural protective layer - the bark. In the future, the tree becomes even more vulnerable.

Step 6. Chemical (insectoacaricidal) treatment

There are FOUR stages of spring treatments - see table

Stage 1 "Spraying until the buds swell"

The first spraying of trees is carried out in the garden, when night air temperatures are slightly above zero, and daytime temperatures are around + 3-5 ° C, active sap flow has not begun and the buds have not yet begun to swell.

The first treatment is the most important, it cannot be missed in any way - firstly, it affects the larvae in the embryo and not yet active insects, and secondly, it is possible to use drugs in their maximum concentration.

At this stage, tree trunks are treated with special preparations for mineral oil based.

An effective drug that is currently actively used is. The action is based on the fact that, firstly, enveloping an insect and larva with a thin oil film leads to suffocation, and secondly, the drug dissolves chitin, which all insects and their eggs consist of, which also leads to their death.

There is a folk analogue of this drug - diesel fuel. Yes, it is the well-known diesel fuel! Spraying with diesel fuel also provides a coating of tree trunks and shrubs with an oily film. The effect is the same, at a lower financial cost.

Stage 2 "Spraying at bud break"

Treatment at this stage is aimed at preventing diseases caused by fungal infection - coccomycosis, moniliosis, scab, anthracnose, etc. For this, carbamide (urea), copper sulfate, Bordeaux liquid, tar soap are used.

And against insect pests, universal chemical insecticides are used. For example:

• Apples, cherries, cherries, plums, apricots, peaches can be treated with Engio preparations or (package for 10 liters of water).
• Grapes can be sprayed with Hom, Topaz (12 ml per 10 l) from powdery mildew, or iron sulfate.
• For raspberries and currants, preference is given to drugs or.

More details on the use of specific preparations for the treatment of fruit trees in the following table:

Stage 3 "Spraying before flowering"

Immediately before flowering, orchards are usually treated for codling moth caterpillars, scab and spotting. At this stage, he uses insect-acaricides of a wide spectrum of action (, "Iskra", "Karbofos", "Horus", "Engio", etc.).

A 10% solution of "Karbofos" is effective with a single treatment (70 g per 10 liters of water). In a separate article, the features of its application are considered.

During flowering, the treatment of plants is not carried out, it is detrimental to bees, and may adversely affect the pollination of flowers.

Stage 4 "Spraying after flowering"

Immediately after flowering, the trees are treated for the 4th final time of the spring garden treatment. Use broad-spectrum insecticides and fungicides (for example,). In a separate article "" the features of its application are considered.

1. Spray trees completely, start from the crown, end with the root part of the trunk;
2. Prepare a working solution based on the calculation of 5-6 liters per adult tree, 1-1.5 liters. on a bush;
3. Use personal protective equipment;
4. Processing is carried out in non-rainy and calm weather. The minimum waiting period is 3-4 days. If it rained, then the treatment should be repeated.
5. Apply universal preparations to protect against a complex of pests;
6. Be interested in and use new drugs, give preference to biological drugs (Drug "30 Plus", "Fitoverm", etc.)
7. And the most important thing is not to waste time and carry out all the stages of early spring processing on time.