Watermelon is a sugar berry. How to grow watermelon in the country on your own. Planting and growing watermelons in open ground Planting seedlings of watermelons in the garden

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Site selection and land preparation for watermelon

You need to choose a place for mini-melons in the garden since autumn. The best predecessors of watermelons are perennial grasses, winter wheat, corn for silage, annual legumes, as well as onions, cabbage or potatoes. Perennial grasses, as a predecessor, contribute to increasing the yield of watermelon even more than a natural fallow. Crops of perennial grasses well restore soil fertility, contributing to a greater accumulation of mobile forms of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Perennial herbs also help prevent Fusarium wilt and other plant diseases, which ultimately ensures a high yield of watermelons.

But growing watermelons after nightshade and pumpkin crops is not recommended. And in order to avoid the accumulation of the causative agent of Fusarium and other pathogens in the soil to the maximum, it is necessary to strictly observe crop rotation. You can return a watermelon to its original landing site no earlier than after 7-8 years.

For sowing watermelons, you need to choose areas that are well lit and heated by the sun. Light sandy and sandy soils are most favorable for watermelon, and optimal acidity soil for watermelons should lie in the range of 6.5-7.0. Watermelons are best grown in holes. To get good yields, two buckets of humus from compost or perennial humus (from chicken manure or cow dung) and sand (especially if the ground on the site is heavy). By mixing the components in the hole right on the surface of the soil, you can leave everything without digging until spring. It should be noted that magnesium is an important nutrient for obtaining a high yield of watermelons. Therefore, since autumn, it is also recommended to apply magnesium fertilizer at the rate of 50 g of active magnesium per 10 m².

In the spring, when it is already getting warm enough, it is necessary to deeply dig or plow the intended areas for the holes with a cultivator, while trying to walk as little as possible along the melon area so as not to compact the soil. Deep digging of the earth to a depth of 30 cm creates Better conditions for root development. At the same time, holes are formed with a diameter of about a meter, and the free space between the edges of adjacent holes should be within 1.5-2 meters.

At the same time for 1 hole or 1 square. meter beds (for a different type of planting), 1 cup of wood ash, 2 tablespoons of nitrophoska and 1 tablespoon of superphosphate should be added. And if manure or compost has not been introduced into the soil since autumn, then a few days before planting seedlings, it is imperative to add 2 buckets of rotted manure to each hole. After completing all preparatory work it is desirable to cover the bed plastic wrap to warm up the soil sunbeams, which will create the most optimal hydrothermal conditions for the roots of seedlings at the time of planting.

It should be remembered that the doses of mineral fertilizers, as well as organic ones, need to be adjusted depending on the content of the corresponding nutrient in the soil in your area. This is especially true for nitrogen, since with its excess, the amount of nitrates in the product increases, and as a result, its taste and keeping quality of fruits deteriorate. Note that the most important biological feature watermelon is a genetic tendency to accumulate a large amount of nitrates in its fruits (with an unbalanced and excessive application nitrogen fertilizers). Therefore, in the case of the use of high doses of nitrogen and organic fertilizers, the fruits can also become hazardous to health.

The seeds are planted one at a time to a depth of 2-3 cm, after which we cover them with glass or polyethylene so that a dry crust does not form on the surface, which prevents the appearance of a sprout. With an excess seed material 2 seeds can be planted in one cup: one may not sprout, and if both have sprung up, then the weaker or defective one must be cut off (you can’t pull it out so as not to damage the roots of the remaining plant). Sprouts usually emerge from the ground in 3-4 days. Remove the protective film and put on the pot in a sunny place.

Watermelon loves a hot climate, but watermelon lovers do not always live in warm countries, and they have to buy a large sweet berry. However, you can try to grow it in your garden. How to do it? Read on.

The place of origin of watermelons is the southern part of Africa. The climate there is dry and hot, summer - all year round. Cold winters and frosts do not happen. Planting sugar berries in open ground in countries with other weather conditions is also practiced, but this will have to work hard. Where should you start? First, properly prepare the soil.

What soil is suitable for watermelons?

Preparing a place for planting exotic berries is desirable in the autumn. The area where pot-bellied minke whales will be planted should be well lit by the sun and protected from the winds. It is best if corn, beans, peas were planted on the selected soil before the striped berry, and also if cabbage heads, onions, alfalfa, winter varieties of wheat grew. It’s bad if tomato, pepper, eggplant grew there earlier, different types zucchini and melons or watermelon.

For the future, it should be taken into account: re-planting watermelons in the same soil will be possible only after six years.

The land for future seedlings must be dug up along with fertilizers applied in advance. The soil will do sandy, loose, non-acidic, with low moisture content, well breathable. For fertilizer, you can take rotted, as well as top dressing based on phosphorus and potassium.

Grow exotic berry can be directly from seeds or seedlings. The seedless method is used in hot countries. In cold climates with short and not very hot suitable for summer seedling only.

By planting young seedlings, you will need to properly prepare the ground. It should contain the following components in equal proportions: sand layer, sod layer, peat layer. In the soil (in the amount of 5 kg) it is necessary to add ammonium nitrate, dolomite flour, potassium sulphate (take all elements 50 g each); double superphosphate (about 100 g).

Planting seeds for seedlings

A prerequisite is that the seeds must be planted already germinated. In order to germinate, they are first placed in hot water(not less than 50 degrees) for 30 minutes. Then the seeds are placed in wet sand. In this case, the temperature in the room should be about 25 degrees. In a few days, the first shoots will come out. The germinated seeds are now ready to be planted. The landing date is the end of April.

It is necessary to plant watermelon seeds in separate containers, two or three seeds each, deepen them into the hole by 1 cm. It is worth sprinkling future seedlings with sand, placing them under glass or film. Put the pots with seedlings in heat, maintain the air temperature at about 30 degrees.

The first sprouts should appear in 6-7 days. When this happens, remove the shelter and lower the thermometer to 15-17 degrees for a period of 4 to 8 days.

Watering the sprouts should be good, but in moderation. Pour water under the roots in several passes.

Fertilize correctly when three good leaves appear. Suitable special mineral composition or liquid top dressing (mullein).

Seedlings preferably before planting in open ground. To do this, you can take it outside for several hours, gradually increasing the amount spent on outdoors time. A week after hardening procedures, you can plant on permanent place.

Plant young seedlings in open land need a month after planting the seeds. This coincides with the timing of the last week of May or occurs in the first ten days of June. The first half of the day is the best time to transplant young plants when there is a lot of light and sun.

The earth needs to be dug up and loosened. It should be well warmed up (at least 15 degrees).

What do we have to do?

1. Dig holes, the diameter and depth of each is half a meter. The gap between the holes in the ground should be about a meter. For planting, it is better to choose a staggered arrangement of holes.
2. Fertilizers are applied to each hole: humus (5-7 l), sand in a small amount (about three liters), superphosphate (a quarter of a glass).
3. Pour loose earth on top to make small mounds.
4. In the mounds, you need to dig holes 10 cm down and pour them with water (one and a half liters each).
5. Carefully remove the seedlings from the cups without damaging the roots. Now you can plant them in a hole, then fill it up and tamp it down with earth. Pour a layer of sand on top.
6. At the end of planting, seedlings must be watered. The water must be warm. For some time, the seedlings must be covered from the bright sun so that the leaves rise faster.

Planted seedling care

Care includes:

• watering;
• thinning;
• weeding;
• loosening;
• topping;
• top dressing.

Let us dwell in more detail on these stages of care.

thinning

When 3-4 young leaves appear on the seedlings, the watermelons should be thinned out, leaving up to two shoots in the hole. All remaining must be cut near the surface layer of the soil.

Weeding

Watermelons do not like weeds, so you will have to weed often and thoroughly. Especially on initial stage growth striped berry. When the seedlings grow and turn into bushes, you can weed less often or stop altogether. At this stage, weed grass is no longer dangerous.

Topping

It is necessary to pinch emerging lashes so that they grow faster. This should be done so that there are 2-4 leaves on top of the ripening fruit. In addition, it is necessary to remove weakened shoots. Each bush should have 3-5 ovaries, it is desirable to remove all unnecessary ones.

loosening

It is necessary to loosen the soil constantly, especially when young seedlings are planted in open ground. Watermelons love light, airy soil. Water also penetrates loose soil more easily.

When the berries begin to increase in size, loosening can be stopped, as well as weeding. At this time, the roots grow very much throughout the area, there is a danger of damaging them with such manipulations. Also try to walk less in the surrounding area so as not to harm the roots near the surface layer of the soil.

Watering

This is a very important element in the care of large striped berries. It is worth watering them every seven days with plenty of water. Three large buckets are taken for watering one square meter. In hot, dry weather, you can increase watering up to twice a week.

Both the ground near the bush and the gaps between the bushes are subject to moisture (in a word, the entire area allocated for planting).

Watering should be reduced as soon as the fruits begin to appear. Before harvesting ripe striped berries, they should not be watered at all (at least 14 days before harvest).

top dressing

The first top dressing is applied after at least 14-15 days after planting the seedlings. What composition to fertilize? Berries planted in open ground are fertilized with ammonium nitrate (20 g), which is mixed with water. Each bush is watered with two liters of solution. A replacement can be mullein with water (in a ratio of 1:10), as well as (we dilute with water 1:20). Superphosphate (20-30 g) and calcium chloride (10-15 g) are added to the solution.

The second time to feed the plants should be at the stage of bud appearance. The composition of the fertilizer: 5 g of calcium chloride and ammonium nitrate, plus superphosphate - 6 g. All this will be needed for one bush.

Fertilizers are sometimes added in dry form, then the soil where watermelons grow must be watered before and after top dressing.

Harvest

The harvest of watermelons should be taken somewhere at the end of August. On average, it takes about a hundred days for the fruit to fully ripen. It all depends on the type of berry you choose.

Varieties are early ripening, late ripening and medium in terms of ripening. In cold climates with short summers, it is better to grow early and mid-ripening fruits. For example, "Spark", "Melania", "Ataman". Among the later varieties are well known, which can also have time to ripen in a temperate climate - "Chill", "Spring".

Watermelons can be eaten immediately or stored. Jam is made from fresh berries, they can be pickled and pickled.

Storage Tips

• Usually late fruits are stored, medium in size and with a thick skin. This cover should be without damage and softness.
• During storage, the berries should not touch each other. The place where these fruits are stored is cold, dark and well ventilated.

Proper harvesting and storage will allow you to enjoy sugar berries for a long time. With sufficient hard work and perseverance, you can achieve excellent results.

Growing watermelons in open field seeds and seedlings

You can grow watermelons using seeds and seedlings. Of course, in order for good and tasty fruits to grow in the end, the planting technology should be carried out correctly.

In addition, the subsequent care of the plant largely affects the quality of ripened fruits. Therefore, it is best to familiarize yourself in advance with all the secrets of growing watermelons using seeds and seedlings.

Place to land

For growing watermelon choose sandy or sandy soil. Its acidity should be 6-7 units.

Since watermelons are a thermophilic plant, a place for planting should be chosen warm, sunny, so that it constantly warms up. Planted in warm soil up to +12 +15 degrees.

Watermelons will grow well after the following crops:

• potato;
• cabbage;
• carrot;
• legume crops.

In no case should you plant a plant in places where solanaceous or gourds have grown before, since these plants have common pests.

It's important to know: it is recommended to prepare a site for watermelons in the fall, it needs to be dug and loosened. Then, on the dug up land, the berry will grow well and give an excellent harvest.

Digging the earth should be done in conjunction with rotted manure or humus. For 1 square meter the following amount of fertilizer is applied - 5-6 kg of humus or rotted manure, superphosphate 50 grams, potassium salt 35 grams and ammonium sulfate 40 grams.

Sand is poured into the weighted soil - 2 buckets per 1 m2. It is not advisable to use fresh manure for fertilizer. When digging, all weeds and roots are removed, because watermelon does not like these unpleasant "neighbors".

If a further landing will be produced under the film, then you should also purchase necessary material and cover the ground with them.

Planting a watermelon

There are two ways to plant watermelons:

1. In a seedless way.

For planting watermelons in open ground, you should choose cold-resistant seeds with a ripening period of 90 days. Varieties are perfect - "Spark", "Gift to the North", "Chill".

Seeds should be soaked in water before planting. The water temperature must be at least 50 degrees. It is necessary to soak until the seeds sprout.

Then they are planted in the soil. The soil should be warmed up to +12 +15 degrees. They are usually planted in early May, by the time the seeds germinate it will become warmer, and the soil will warm up with the sun.

After 8-10 days, the first shoots should appear. If the earth is cold, then germination will be delayed for a long period, and as a result, the seeds may die.

It is worth noting: before landing, be sure to pay attention to the weather conditions. If it is cool in early May, then planting should be postponed to the end of the month.

In order to grow good harvest, the following disembarkation technology should be observed:

• each well is filled with a mixture of ash, earth, humus and nitroammophos (1 teaspoon). Pour 1 tablespoon of the mixture into the well. This will help increase productivity in the future;
• then we lay the seeds in the soil to a depth of 6-9 cm;
• sprinkle with humus so that a crust does not form on top. This crust can harm the sprouts when they come to the surface, and they will die.

Below, we suggest you watch a video on how to transplant watermelon seedlings into open ground:

2. Growing seedlings.

Seeds are planted for seedlings in late April - early May. It is desirable that the room maintains a temperature regime of +25 +30 degrees.

Seed germination begins at temperature regime from + 17 degrees, but in order for them to grow and develop fruitfully, it is recommended to maintain at least 25 degrees in the daytime, and at +18 degrees at night. Seedling picking is not necessary.

The soil in which the seedlings grow should be fertilized. This will provide fast growth sprouts. For all the time the soil needs to be fertilized twice, mineral fertilizers are used as top dressing.

Important to remember: when planting, seedlings cannot be completely covered with soil. On the surface, sprouts of 3-4 cm should be left.

The sprouts should not come into contact with each other, otherwise they can be severely damaged when planting. Therefore, you should watch the sprouts, and as they grow, the cups should be moved away. Shoots ready for planting must have at least 3 leaves.

Seedlings are planted in the soil in late May or early June. Be sure to follow the landing technology. Sprouted seedlings are planted in prepared beds to a depth of 9-11 cm.

One or two shoots are planted in the hole. If 2 shoots are planted in the hole, then they are bred according to different parties so that their lashes do not intertwine.

Before planting, up to two kilograms of compost or humus are poured into the hole and poured with water. It should be planted in a gruel of soil and fertilizers, sprinkling with dry soil.

Care

In addition to landing, you must follow the rules of care. It is from proper care future harvest depends.

Care consists of the following:

1. Shelter. In order to accelerate the growth of the plant, covering materials can be used. Under the film, an elevated temperature is maintained and due to this, the plant begins to grow faster.

In addition, the fruits will appear 2-3 weeks earlier. Also covering material will provide protection against various pests. To cover with a film, you can make not high racks on the sides and put covering material on them. It should be removed in early June and preferably on a cloudy day, otherwise the plants may burn out under the scorching sun.

2. Irrigation procedures. Since watermelon has a very powerful root system, which can go to a depth of more than 1 meter, it should not be watered very often. Once a week is enough. He gets the missing moisture from the ground himself.

3. Soil fertilization. The first top dressing is done 7 days after planting seedlings or seeds. The next two are done at intervals of 2-3 weeks. For the first top dressing, the following can be used as fertilizers - a solution of ammonium nitrate, 20 grams per 10 liters of water. For subsequent dressings, it is best to use mineral fertilizers.

4. Work on the formation of bushes. The fruits are formed on the main stem. In order for them to ripen quickly, it is best to leave no more than 6 ovaries on the stem of the plant, it is recommended to remove the rest.

Also, do not forget about loosening the soil. Beds with watermelons should be periodically loosened. It is advisable to do this after rain or watering.

Overgrown lashes can be tied to special racks or lightly sprinkled with earth. This will protect them from the wind and speed up the growth of the fruit.

Harvesting

Fruit picking begins around August. Before cutting a watermelon, check it for maturity. Usually a ripe fruit has a glossy skin and a dry tail.

There are no hairs on the stalks. Usually, when you knock on the fetus, a dull sound is heard. All these signs are conditional, so it is recommended to use them in combination.

Growing watermelons is a rather laborious process, so it should be approached responsibly. Be sure to prepare the landing site well, pre-dig the soil and fertilize with top dressing.

Do not forget about further care behind the plant. It is from all right technology cultivation depends future harvest.

We offer you to watch a video on how to properly plant watermelon seeds for seedlings:

AT last years a huge number of hybrids and varieties of watermelon appeared, suitable for cultivation in open ground conditions, not only in the southern regions, but also in cold climates. To grow melons and gourds in your country house, you need to put a lot of effort and skill. The secrets of preparing seeds, planting and caring for seedlings will help to fulfill the dream, which will result in a large and sweet watermelon.

Site preparation

Location selection - milestone planting watermelon, which largely determines its further growth and productivity:

• watermelon loves places with a lot of light, in shading conditions it does not develop well and will not be able to give high yields. For planting, sunny areas are allocated that must be protected from the wind;
• due to the highly developed root system, watermelons are highly drought-resistant; planting in places with close groundwater is unacceptable for it;
• for the cultivation of gourds, light sandy or sandy soils with neutral acidity are most suitable. In areas with acidic soil, watermelon produces small fruits that crack while still green.

These plants are undemanding to soil fertility, they grow well both on black soil and on poor sandy and stony soils. Still, well-cultivated plots are needed to obtain large yields. To do this, in the fall, the place of the future planting is dug up and fertilizers are applied:

• superphosphate, azofoska (according to instructions);
• wood ash (1 l);
• humus (5 l).

The calculation is given for 1 m 2 of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site. Fertilizing before planting eliminates the need for regular top dressing during the growing season of the plant.

For watermelon, you need to choose a well-lit place

Step-by-step instructions for planting a watermelon

In order for the preparation and planting of watermelon seeds to proceed correctly, the following steps should be followed.

Seed selection

This is a crucial period of preparation for sowing watermelon, as it largely determines the success of growing and obtaining fruits. A variety of varieties and hybrids allows you to choose a plant that is most adapted to the cultivation conditions in your area. Between themselves, watermelons can differ in large or small fruits, the speed of their ripening, and have different resistance to diseases.

Pre-sowing preparation of seeds

Preparation of seeds for sowing is an important stage in the cultivation of vegetable crops, especially for home cultivation, since in a limited space the requirements for plant selection increase.

Calibration

Sorting seeds by size allows you to choose the best of them, reject small and damaged ones. The selection is usually carried out manually: the seed is scattered on a smooth surface and divided into large, medium and small. Large seeds usually contain large stock nutrients, which in the future will provide plants with good growth and high yields.

For sowing, choose the largest seeds

Heating and soaking

Warming and soaking increases the rate of biochemical reactions in cells, which improves seed germination, the formation of more female flowers, good growth and development of lashes.

Procedure:

1. Seed material is poured into a cloth bag and immersed in warm water(50–60°C) for 2–3 hours.
2. Then transferred for half an hour for disinfection in a slightly warmed weak solution potassium permanganate.
3. The bag is taken out, allowed to drain excess moisture.
4. Seeds are laid out on wet sand, a cotton or paper substrate and left in warm room. They are kept at room temperature for about 2 days until seedlings appear.

If you bought treated seeds, they should not be soaked and should be planted directly in the ground.

Germination of watermelon seeds for planting in open ground or for seedlings

hardening

To increase the resistance of plants to sharp fluctuations in temperature and to obtain an earlier and more abundant harvest, seed hardening is carried out. Most often, seed is affected in two ways:

• constant low temperature. Within 1–2 days, swollen and hatched watermelon seeds are kept in a refrigerator at a temperature of 0 ± 1 ° C with occasional stirring. Such hardening can also be carried out by burying the seed in a small box or bag in the snow;
• exposure to variable temperature. The swollen seeds are kept in the refrigerator for about 12 hours at a temperature not lower than 6 ° C, then they should be kept warm at a temperature of 18–20 ° C for the same period of time. The procedure is repeated three times.

Before sowing, the seeds are slightly dried.

Selection of containers and soil

To avoid further transplanting or picking, the seeds are sown in separate pots or containers with a volume of at least 300 ml ( minimum height containers - 12 cm, diameter - 10 cm). For planting, a soil mixture is prepared, into which sand is added in equal proportions, sod land and peat. To 5 liters of prepared soil add:

• dolomite flour and potassium sulfate (50 g);
• double superphosphate (100 g);
• ammonium nitrate (50 g).

Seedling containers are filled with a mixture so that about 3 cm remains between the surface of the soil and the edge of the pot. As the plants grow, the earth can be poured into the pot.

To avoid further transplanting or picking, the seeds are sown in separate pots.

Sowing watermelon seeds

To know how to plant a watermelon correctly, depending on climatic conditions, sowing is done through seedlings or directly into open ground.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

The best time for planting is mid-late April. Sprouted seeds with a root of 1–1.5 cm are sown to a depth of 3 cm, 4–5 pieces in each container, sprinkled with earth on top, watered and covered with glass or film. The pots are placed on the brightest window, preferably the south one.

It is important that there are no drafts in the room.

Germinated seeds with a root of 1–1.5 cm are sown to a depth of 3 cm, 4–5 pieces in each container.

Planting seeds in open ground

Prepared seeds can be sown directly in open ground only in southern regions with a warm climate. The optimal time for planting is when the air temperature is set within 12–14 ° C, and the soil warms up to a depth of 10 cm. It is better to sow in the last decade of May, at which time the probability of a cold snap is significantly reduced. In cold soil, seed germination time increases, as a result of which seedlings may die or become infected with pathogenic microflora. For planting a watermelon, a hole is prepared with a diameter of about 1 m and a depth of at least 30 cm, they bring into it:

• humus or compost (1 kg);
• ash (1 tablespoon);
• nitroammophosphate (1 tsp);
• sand is additionally added to heavy soil, everything is mixed.

Sprouted seeds of watermelons are sown in the prepared holes. Prior to this, approximately 2 liters of water are poured into the seed planting site. After it is absorbed, 4–5 seeds are laid out to a depth of 3–6 cm, the hole is covered with earth and compacted. The bed after sowing is not watered. To avoid the appearance of a crust, which makes it difficult for sprouts to reach the surface, the soil is mulched with humus.

Young seedlings need a lot of water, so they are watered abundantly as the soil dries out, but not more than 1 time in 7 days. The required depth of soil moisture is at least 25–30 cm. Soon after the emergence of sprouts, the first thinning is carried out, leaving the strongest plants, in the phase of 3–4 true leaves, the procedure is repeated. As a result, 1-2 plants should remain in the hole.

Watermelon grown by direct sowing in the ground is more resistant to stresses, including drought and temperature changes, but the crop will always ripen later than that of a seedling crop.

A hole for sowing watermelon seeds in open ground is prepared with a diameter of about 1 m, the soil in it is mixed with humus and mineral fertilizers to a depth of about 30 cm

seedling care

In order for plants in pots to grow and develop well, they create optimal conditions:

• daytime temperature should be around 25°C, at night it is lowered to 20°C. Under these conditions, sprouts will appear in 7-10 days;
• the required length of daylight is at least 12 hours. The lack of lighting contributes to the elongation of seedlings and can cause their death; on cloudy days, it is recommended to highlight the plants with a phytolamp;
• after the seedlings have risen, the weak ones are removed, leaving one sprout;
• watering seedlings is carried out in several steps, avoiding water on the leaves;
• in phase 3 of true leaves, the plant is fed with fermented mullein mixed with water in a ratio of 1:10 (or liquid complex fertilizer).

Subject to these rules, seedlings will grow strong and healthy and will easily take root in a new place.

After culling weak seedlings, one plant should remain in the pot

Transplanting seedlings in open ground

By the time the seedlings are transplanted to the garden, their age is 30–35 days, the plant has at least 4 leaves. 10 days before transplanting to the site, the seedlings are hardened: they are taken out into the open air, increasing the residence time every day. For 3-4 days before planting in the ground, the plants are kept outdoors, and in the evening before transplanting, they are watered abundantly.

After hardening, watermelon seedlings become more resistant to temperature fluctuations.

In mid-June, plants are planted in a permanent place. The transplant is carried out in the morning: the watermelon, together with the earthy clod, is removed from the container, planted in the hole, then watered and covered with a film. The root neck of the seedlings is not deepened.

After planting the seedlings, the earthen ball should be completely covered with soil, the root collar of the watermelon should be left open

Video: transplanting seedlings of watermelons in open ground

Watermelon planting time according to the lunar calendar for 2020

In order for the plant to grow and develop well, it is important not only to prepare the soil, but also to choose the right time for planting. Often growers resort to help lunar calendar. Auspicious dates for 2020:

• planting on March 3, 10 and 11 will most positively affect the growth of melons;
• in April, the favorable time for planting seedlings are the 9th, 15th and 23rd;
• in May, watermelons are recommended to be planted on the 13th, 14th and 20th;
• landing horticultural crops undesirable on the days of the new moon and full moon:
  • April 8 and 25,
  • 7 and 22 May.

Scheme and planting depth

Exist different schemes planting watermelons in open ground, their choice is influenced by:

• cultivation method (watering or without artificial irrigation). Plants grown without watering occupy a smaller area, so they can be placed more densely;
• watermelon variety (early or late ripening);
• estimated fetal weight (3-5 kg ​​or more than 8 kg). The higher the planting density of watermelons, the smaller the fruits will grow.

When planting watermelons, it is taken into account that the plants grow widely and should not interfere with each other:

• in the garden early varieties placed at a distance of 1.4x1.4 m or 1.4x0.7 m;
• watermelons of mid-season and late-ripening varieties are planted according to the scheme 2x2 m; 2.1x1.4 m; 2.1x1 m.

The smaller number shows the distance between plants when planting, the larger one - between rows.

The higher the planting density of watermelons, the smaller the fruits will grow.

The depth of planting seed in open ground can vary from 3 to 8 cm and depends on:

• on their size (the smaller the seed, the smaller the planting depth);
• type of soil (on light soils, the incorporation is deeper than on heavy soils);
• soil moisture (seeds spread on a moistened layer).

Seedlings are planted a little deeper than when growing in a pot, so that the root neck is not damaged by winds.

Neighbors and predecessors

To guarantee a good harvest of gourds, you need not only to follow the rules of planting, but also to know about the compatibility of plants with each other:

• watermelon does not tolerate gusty winds. To create shelter, corn, peas, or beans are planted around the site;
• all members of the pumpkin family, including watermelon, are compatible with black radish plantings. This plant secretes phytoncides that prevent the appearance of spider mites;
• melon is an excellent neighbor of watermelon;
• it is well compatible with potatoes and oat root;
• corn and peas improve the growth and taste of watermelons;
• thistle and gauze contribute to the growth of melons;
• watermelon grows well next to plantings of greens (parsley is an exception);
• phytoncides of tomatoes drive away aphids, sawflies and moths.

All representatives of gourds grow very strongly, so next to them it is better to plant crops that give an early harvest.

Planting some plants next to a watermelon negatively affects its growth and productivity, so the choice of neighbors must be approached responsibly:

• gourds grow well in open, sunny areas, so they are not planted next to trees and shrubs that shade the area;
• watermelon does not like the neighborhood of strawberries and nightshade representatives (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers);
• he extracts from the soil a large number of minerals, therefore, it is not recommended to grow watermelon next to beets, carrots, garlic and radishes;
• watermelons should not be planted together with related plants - pumpkins or zucchini, as well as cucumbers.

An important agricultural technique is crop rotation. When alternating gourds with a frequency of 3–4 years, the number of pests and diseases, as well as weeds, is significantly reduced on the field. It is not recommended to grow watermelon in the same field for more than 2 years in a row, the optimal predecessors for it are:

• winter wheat,
• perennial herbs,
• corn for green fodder,
• radish,
• dill,
• basil,
• tomatoes,
• celery,
• roots,
• cabbage.

It is strongly not recommended to plant gourds in the area where melons, squash or zucchini previously grew. After harvesting watermelon fruits, it is better to plant this area with legumes (green beans, peas) or garlic.

Methods for planting watermelons on the site

Depending on the climatic conditions of the region and the availability free space, watermelons are grown in different ways.

in a bucket

In this way, watermelon can be grown at home. To do this, first seedlings are grown in a small pot. Further work is carried out as follows:

1. Prepare a bucket with a volume of 16 liters (you can wooden box size 50x50x30 cm).
2. The container is filled with fertile soil with neutral acidity, mixed with perlite in a ratio of 2: 1. This will protect the soil from standing water.
3. After the third true leaf appears in the seedlings, the plant, together with an earthy clod, is transplanted into a bucket.
4. The optimum daytime temperature is 25–30°C, at night it is 18–20°C. Such conditions are created in spring and summer on a closed balcony.
5. Watering should be moderate, watermelon does not like waterlogging.
6. Fertilize the soil every 2 weeks. Liquid fertilizers for vegetables are suitable for this (add 1 tsp of fertilizer to 1 liter of water). For irrigation prepare only a fresh solution.
7. At the stage of formation of the ovary, a second top dressing is carried out with an increased content of potassium and phosphorus, and after 2-3 weeks - the third.
8. The side shoots of the watermelon are pinched, leaving only the main lash.
9. In the flowering phase of watermelon, artificial pollination is carried out: male flowers with stamens are plucked, petals are removed and female flowers are pollinated (with a thickening at the bottom), touching the pistils with stamens.
10. After fruit set, no more than two berries are left on the plant, the rest are removed.
11. Fruits about 10 cm in size are placed in a net and tied to a support.

After about three months, you can harvest delicious berries weighing about 1 kg.

According to the author, this method can be considered more like a hobby than a way to get a tasty berry. In an apartment, it is unlikely to provide the plant with optimal temperature conditions, except perhaps during the hot summer on the balcony. A home-grown watermelon is unlikely to please with the aroma and sweetness of the pulp. For those who still decide to experiment, I advise you to make a drainage hole at the bottom of the tank to protect the roots from waterlogging. And to determine if a watermelon needs watering, it can be recommended to slightly raise the bucket with the plant, guided by its weight and soil moisture.

On the trellis

In the southern regions, gourds are cultivated in open ground, in which case they do not require a garter. When grown in northern regions with cool and humid climates, trellises can be used. This is especially true for small plots where there is little light and moisture stagnation is likely. In such places it is recommended to grow watermelons of small-fruited hybrids and varieties:

1. On both sides, the beds are dug along a support at least 1.5 m high, ropes or twine are pulled between them.
2. To tight ropes others are tied, which descend to the plants and serve as a support for the stems of the watermelon, determining the direction of growth.
3. The end of the lowered rope is fixed on the stem of the plant or on the ground.
4. The main stem is tied up in a vertical direction, the top is not pinched. All side shoots are removed, as female flowers are formed mainly on the main stem.
5. The grown fruits are placed in nets, then individually tied to a trellis so that they do not fall under their own weight.

With the formation of 2-3 fruits the size of a chicken egg, the remaining ovaries are removed, since large quantity watermelons will not have time to ripen.

The trellis is relevant for small areas where there is little light and moisture stagnation is likely.

Under cover material

The cultivation of watermelons under covering material has become especially popular at the present time. Additional expenses at the same time, they are compensated by the advantages of this technology, including:

• protection of seedlings from weeds in the early stages of growth in the open field;
• reduction of diurnal temperature fluctuations;
• accumulation and preservation of soil moisture.

The use of covering material allows you to reduce the period of fruit ripening by 7-10 days. This method is especially relevant in conditions of a short or humid summer and can be used in several ways:

Spunbond can be used to cover plants directly along the lashes, protecting them from possible frosts.

Features of planting watermelons in different regions

Watermelon is a heat-loving crop that needs a fairly long growing season. This should be taken into account when cultivating in regions with different climatic conditions.

In the southern regions (south of Ukraine, Krasnodar region, republics of Transcaucasia) watermelons are traditionally grown open way, which is facilitated by a large number of warm and sunny days necessary for the vegetation of the plant and the rapid development of fruits. After preparation for sowing, the seeds are planted directly in open ground.

In the northern regions of Ukraine, the amount of heat is not enough to ripen the fruits, so watermelon seedlings are grown first.

In regions with a moderately cold and severe climate ( Leningrad region, Moscow region, Siberia, Far East) the harvest of watermelons will always be moderate. To obtain it, you must strictly follow some rules:

• for landing choose only early maturing varieties;
• to ensure acceptable temperatures, watermelons are grown in greenhouses, and under conditions middle lane- also in the open ground under the film (spread);
• planting is done through seedlings in pots;
• so that the roots grow in width, watering the plants is carried out not under the root, but along the grooves dug in the middle of the aisle;
• no more than 5-6 fruits are left on one plant, to obtain large berries - 1-2 fruits, a plank is placed under each one so that they do not rot in cool conditions.

For cultivation in northern regions choose only early ripening varieties of watermelons:

• for the Moscow region:
  • Sugar baby (Sugar baby),
  • Crimson Sweet,
  • Skorik,
  • spark,
  • Producer,
  • Astrakhan,
  • top gun
  • Chill;
• for the Leningrad region:
  • Kharkiv,
  • spark,
  • Rose of the Southeast
  • early maturing;
• for the Urals - the same varieties as for the Moscow region, as well as:
  • Pink Champagne F1,
  • Gift to the North F1,
  • Crimstar;
• for Siberia and the Far East:
  • Crimson Wonder,
  • Crimson Sweet,
  • ultra early,
  • spark,
  • Siberian.

The average fruit ripening period for the middle lane is about 70-80 days, the fruits are medium-sized - from 2 kg to 4-6 kg.

Hard work and knowledge of planting and caring for watermelons will surely reward you with tasty and healthy berries. You can grow watermelon even in the northern regions, you just need to choose suitable grade and do not be too lazy to make a shelter.

Watermelon comes from the deserts of southern Africa, which is why it is highly resistant to heat, dry air, and poor soils. Of all the gourds, it is the least whimsical to the quality of the soil. On the contrary, it works best on sandy loamy steppe chernozems, light soils with good water permeability. But its merits are dictated by growing conditions: a lot of sun, light soil, dry air, soil moisture during the period of growth of lashes, flowering, formation of ovaries.

Agricultural technology

Humidity environment, perhaps, the most difficult thing is to overcome the melon grower in order to grow fruits of the proper quality.

Video about growing watermelon

You can hide from the cold, prevent excessive dryness of the earth by proper watering. But if you live in a wet climate, then you will have to work hard to grow a good striped fruit. Not without a greenhouse. Think in advance how you will protect the crop from crows. Get also early and tasty varieties, preferably local selection. Now let's look at everything in more detail to understand how to grow watermelons in the country.

Take care of the quality of the soil in advance, in the fall of the year preceding planting. Especially if your future melon is located where predominantly heavy soils prevail: loam or peat marshy soils. It is necessary to dig the ground well, while simultaneously removing the roots of weeds. Best of all, even for two bayonets of a shovel. We mix heavy soil with sand at the rate of two buckets per square meter. Thus, we bring the lightness, water permeability of the soil in accordance with the requirements of the agricultural technology of melons. It is advisable to take gray river sand, red building sand contains a lot of iron, which can overly oxidize the earth.

Pictured is a watermelon

Speaking of acidity, growing watermelons works best on a substrate with a neutral acidity. You can find out what soil acidity you have either by measuring it with a Ph-indicator or Ph-meter, or by plants growing on your garden plot. The first case, of course, gives more accurate results. To do this, purchase an indicator in a pharmacy or a chemical store (a universal indicator is best). Or buy a Ph-meter there. Take the soil from the place of laying the future melon. Dilute it with water, look at the color of the indicator or the readings of the device.

Indicator plants will roughly tell you about the condition of the soil in your area. So, for example, chamomile, wheat grass, bindweed, cornflowers and clover prefer to grow on soils with neutral acidity. Horsetails, plantains, mosses will tell us that the environment is too acidic. On the contrary, poppy, mustard testify to the alkaline reaction of the earth.

The acidity of the soil is eliminated by liming - adding a lime solution to the soil, it is obtained by mixing lime for whitewashing with water. Alkaline leads to a neutral indicator by the introduction of acidifiers: peat, needles, sawdust conifers. Sowing legumes well restores the normal acidity of the soil.

Photo of a watermelon in the garden

We also remember that it is highly undesirable to plant watermelons on the site of the former growth of cucumbers, other melons: pumpkins or melons. Such precautions are associated with the threat of introducing diseases: fusarium (colloquially wilting leaves), peronosporosis (downy mildew). Also, you can not plant it after nightshade. Crop rotation for these crops should reach 5-6 years. The optimal predecessor would be corn, sunflower, legumes: beans, peas, lupins. Also, watermelon fruits are well poured when sown after perennial cereal crops.

We fertilize the earth at the same time when they dug up, in the fall. Along with deep mixing of the soil layers, we add a standard set of macronutrients: phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium. Superphosphates are added in the amount of thirty grams per square meter. Potassium sulfate is applied at a concentration of twenty grams per meter. Nitrogen fertilizers are added in extremely small doses in autumn.

It is better to make them in the spring and preferably along with organic top dressing. Otherwise, you run the risk of dramatically increasing the nitrate content of your fruits. The presence of magnesium in the soil contributes to high yields. We also introduce microelements together with autumn digging. It is best to use complex liquid mineral supplements containing molybdenum, iron, selenium, and manganese immediately necessary for melons.

To pay attention organic fertilizers, especially those containing humic acids or effective microorganisms. The colonization of the soil with beneficial microflora will lead to a sharp jump in the digestibility of the plants introduced by you mineral dressings. This will significantly affect the yield of future melons.

The greatest threat to the northern watermelon industry is late spring frosts. There are several ways to avoid this.

First, you can grow seedlings. The advantage of this method is the savings in time. when the threat of frost has passed, we are already planting young seedlings that have formed a few leaves. The downside is that watermelons have a very delicate root system. they really don't like transplants. It is ideal to grow them in peat pots, then the plant is planted without removing it from the pot, which gradually dissolves with soil, giving additional top dressing.

But even with this type of planting, for some time the seedlings do not grow, being under stress, yielding to the sown ones. In addition, planted watermelons are more tender, painful compared to ground watermelons, and more susceptible to various fungal summer misfortunes.

watermelon photography

Secondly, spring sowing under cover. It can be both a film greenhouse and a full-fledged greenhouse. The greenhouse is most often used only for frost protection. Upon reaching the watermelon lashes of great length, in the summer the shelter is removed. How to grow watermelon in a greenhouse? To save space, the lashes are allowed vertically. Plants cling to vertical supports with tendrils.

It is important to keep greenhouses with flowering plants open to allow access to insects. When the fruits reach the size of an orange, they need to be laid in nets and hung from transverse greenhouse supports. Greenhouses are suitable where there is a humid cloudy summer. The microclimate created inside from a combination of dry air with regular watering would be ideal for minke whales.

If you are worried about spring frosts. And the summer promises to be hot and relatively dry, so there is no reason to build a greenhouse. It is enough to get by with temporary greenhouse shelters.

Or you can combine these two methods. Sow directly into the ground and accelerate maturation, bypassing the threat spring frosts. This is the so-called Korean ridge. We take a wide, very dense transparent film. We make small holes, no more than five centimeters in diameter. Perforation step - half a meter in a row. Leave two meters between rows. We prepare the ground. It is advisable to clean it well from the roots of weeds. Well fertilize, spill. At a distance of two meters from each other, we make small earthen ramparts, about a third of a meter high.

Pictured is a watermelon

To make it even easier summer care, we bury the irrigation system in the shafts. This can be a simple perforated hose or special drip tapes designed to continuously receive moisture for each bush.

We lay the film so that the rows with holes lie along the crests of the earthen ramparts. We dig around the edges. We plant two pre-soaked seeds in the holes. We close each hole with a glass jar with the neck down, pressing it slightly into the soil. She will create greenhouse conditions for seed germination. You can also use large plastic bottles with a cut neck, bottom up. Under the film, the soil will quickly warm up in the spring, without cooling down at night and without losing moisture. Earth shafts provide maximum heating under the film.

The seeds will quickly hatch, from the two we remove the weaker sprout. Soon they will be cramped under the can cover. It is best to time planting dates so that they are one month ahead of the average date of the last spring frost in your area. Then, as soon as the seedling forms a sufficient green mass, it is already possible to remove the can cover without fear of frostbite on the leaves. Most often this last decade April.

Closer to June, not only watermelons begin to grow intensively, but also weeds that remain under the film. To avoid breaking through the film and disturbing the microclimate of the soil, we cover all the aisles with a large layer of mulch: needles, sawdust, straw. Without sunlight, weeds will wither away. And the soil will normally warm up under a large layer of mulching material.

We produce all dressings in liquid form, pouring everything through the holes where our watermelon lashes grow from. By organizing the irrigation system in the spring, we deprive ourselves of even this need, everything is delivered immediately to the roots. Sometimes you can do without a ridge, level the soil. Then care becomes even easier, although spring warming will be less.

Care

Formation is important, especially given the short northern summer. After the formation of the sixth sheet, we pinch the lash. This stimulates flowering. We feed in the spring with an equal amount of phosphate and nitrogen fertilizers. Upon reaching the fruit size of an orange, we exclude nitrogen ones, increase the proportion potash fertilizers and micronutrients. To enhance the growth of the fruit, we pinch the lash with a few leaves above it.

We protect melons from fungal diseases. Proper watering will suffice for these purposes. That is, pour under the root, do not wet the leaves. It is also desirable to exclude the contact of the lashes with the ground, cover it with mulch. Then the plant will not pick up spores stored on the ground.

We water our melons regularly, plentifully. From the emergence of seedlings, throughout the time that the watermelon grows. When pouring fruits, we reduce watering, otherwise they may crack. We protect the future harvest from birds, especially from crows. Often left unattended, melons can lose their entire crop in just a few minutes. Put scarecrows or cover the fruits from birds. You can bury them in the ground. Can be put away in boxes or other containers. When the leg of our striped berry begins to dry out, this will mean that it is ripe. It can be torn down.

Now a few words about apartment melon growing.

Video about watermelons on the windowsill

1. We take a container for planting the size of a bucket.
2. We prepare the substrate. Three equal parts of meadow humus, manure humus, sand. We deoxidize with a small amount of lime.
3. We water with complex fertilizers: organic and inorganic, containing trace elements.
4. We sow three or four seeds. Watering, waiting for the emergence of shoots.
5. We leave the strongest sprout.
6. A support for the future stem is stuck into the bucket, about a meter.
7. When the lash of the plant forms the fifth or sixth leaf, pinch it
8. At light day shorter than 12 hours, artificial lighting is used
9. We pollinate artificially.
10. We leave no more than two fruits on each plant.
11. When the fruits reach the size of a chicken egg, we put them in nets and tie them to a support.
12. Fertilize and water in the same way as in horticultural cultivation.

Photo of growing watermelon on the balcony

Thanks to artificial lighting You can grow striped sweets at home anytime, even in summer, even in winter. Homemade watermelons are small, but thin-skinned.