Modern methods of caring for floral and decorative foliage plants include timely watering, spraying, washing, fertilizing with macro- and microfertilizers, carbon dioxide, mulching, weeding, pinching, pinching, gartering, lighting, and the use of growth stimulants; proper storage planting material and other agrotechnical techniques that significantly increase and improve the yield of flower products.
Watering and spraying. A natural source of replenishing moisture reserves in the soil is precipitation. In dry areas or during periods with little rainfall, lack of moisture negatively affects the functioning of the root system and plant growth.
The moisture deficiency is replenished by manual or mechanized watering.
Manual watering is carried out in two steps using a watering can or hose connected to the water supply network. The first time, the soil is easily moistened, and as soon as the water has been absorbed, a second, abundant watering is carried out. This is done to save water, since moist soil better absorbs incoming moisture and prevents it from accumulating in depressions.
Frequent watering, but in small doses, does not give the desired result, since it only wets top layer soil by 5-8 cm, and the bulk of the roots of most plants are located at a depth of 20-35 cm.
The amount of moisture and frequency of watering depend on the growth period and the type of plants being grown. The greatest amount of water is required during the period of intensive growth, budding and the beginning of flowering. For moisture-loving plants during this period, soil moisture should be 70-80% of the total field moisture capacity, which is achieved by two waterings (morning and evening) with a water flow of 30-40 l/m2. For more drought-resistant plants, a humidity of 60-70% is sufficient, which is achieved with one watering of 20-25 l/m2.
Bulbous plants need a large amount of water during the formation of renewal organs. This is achieved by two or three waterings before flowering and one after flowering at a rate of 50-60 l/m2.
Mechanical irrigation in open ground is carried out using sprinklers with a water consumption of 200-300 m3 per 1 ha.
In places with a high concentration of dust and soot, to improve assimilation and transpiration, it is necessary to wash the plants at least once a week, using 5 liters of water per 1 m2.
Mechanized irrigation in closed ground is carried out in the following ways: stationary sprinklers made from water pipes with sprayers suspended in the greenhouse at a height of 2-2.5 m; pallet watering of potted crops using specially made racks with a tray, where water comes from the water supply network, and its excess is discharged into the sewer system; an underground irrigation system using ceramic pipes laid in the soil of greenhouses at a depth of 35-40 cm. While circulating, water seeps through the walls of the pipes. As soon as the soil acquires the necessary moisture, the system is turned off;
Spraying carried out in the spring and summer to increase air humidity in cultivated areas. It is especially necessary during the period of cuttings, transplanting and forcing, growing tropical plants, since it reduces the intensity of transpiration.
Spraying potted plants and seedlings are produced from a hose with a fine spray or using a spray bottle three to four times a day, and in hot weather- more often.
Excess water is just as harmful to plants as its lack. IN winter period Care is taken to ensure that the soil does not become acidic due to excess moisture.
Irrigation water should be soft, without admixtures of salts harmful to plants, the temperature should not be lower than the ambient temperature, and even better if it is 2-3oC higher. Watering potted plants with tap water can only be done after standing for 12 hours. Loosening. Loosening the top layer of soil prevents the rapid evaporation of moisture from the underlying layers and creates a favorable water-air regime, which contributes to the normal development of the root system and the entire plant as a whole. Loosening is carried out to destroy the soil crust that forms after heavy rains or watering, as well as to incorporate fertilizers introduced into the soil during fertilizing. Loosening of annual and perennial plants begins in early spring to a depth of 5-6 cm and continues until the bushes close.
Autumn loosening of perennials is carried out after pruning faded shoots. The depth of loosening depends on the nature of the underground organs: plants whose roots are located close to the soil surface (anemone, delphinium, pyrethrum, phlox) are cultivated to a depth of 3-5 cm, departing from the stems by 8-12 cm; plants with deep-growing roots (poppy, peony, lupine, mallow, aquilegia and all bulbous plants) - 8-10 cm.
Weeding. The damage caused by weeds is enormous. They shade flower plants and deprive them of nutrients, moisture, are carriers of harmful insects and diseases.
The fight against perennial rhizomatous weeds is especially difficult: wheatgrass, spurge, bindweed, wormwood, etc. Therefore, soil cleaning should be carried out before planting and not stop throughout the growing season.
In areas of open ground heavily infested with weeds, herbicides (chemicals used to kill weeds) are used before planting. Indoors, garden soil is passed through a screen to remove sections of rhizomes of perennial weeds.
Annual weeds - woodlice, shepherd's purse, rapeseed, quinoa - are much easier to fight; for this it is necessary to carry out timely weeding.
On average, three to four weedings should be carried out during the season, and five to six in a rainy year.
In mulched soil, the amount of weeding is significantly reduced. Mulching is sprinkling organic fertilizers on the top layer of soil: peat or composts - peat manure, peat minerals, peat humus, semi-decomposed leaves or straw with manure, as well as sawdust and sand.
Mulch helps retain moisture in the soil without additional loosening after watering or rain, prevents compaction and destruction of the soil structure, prevents the development of weeds, is a source of enriching the soil with nitrogen and ash elements, and is also a good insulation material for perennials.
You can mulch the soil for the first time early spring after loosening before the development of shoots and in the fall after pruning faded shoots. Mulching thickness: 2-3 cm in closed ground and 5-6 cm in flower beds.
Feeding. During fertilizing, fertilizers are applied to the soil (at the root of the plant) and the leaves are sprayed with this solution. The first feedings are called root, the second - foliar.
With proper pre-sowing tillage of the soil for planting summer crops, fertilizing is usually not carried out. However, if by the appearance of the plants or as a result of an agrochemical test it is determined that the soil is poor in nutrients, it is necessary to fertilize with organic or mineral fertilizers in dry or liquid form. At the beginning of plant growth, nitrogen fertilizers are applied at the rate of 8-10 g/m2, and during the budding period - a full set of mineral fertilizers: 6-8 g nitrogen, 25-30 g phosphorus and 10-15 g potassium per 1 m2.
Perennial plants require mandatory feeding every year.
For intensive growth vegetative organs in the spring, two fertilizings are carried out with nitrogen fertilizers. The first - during the period of snow melting at the rate of 10-15 g/m2 and the second - after 3-3.5 weeks in the amount of 20-25 g/m2.
Sparingly soluble phosphorus and potash fertilizers It is best to apply in autumn or spring when first loosening the soil in the following quantities: potassium 20-30 g/m2 and phosphorus - 50-60 g/m2. They increase the frost resistance of plants, accelerate the development of renewal organs and the accumulation of nutrients in them.
The third feeding is carried out during the budding period with complete mineral fertilizer in the amount of: 10 g nitrogen, 30 g phosphorus and 20 g potassium fertilizers per 1 m2.
After applying and incorporation of fertilizers, in order for them to reach the root system zone as quickly as possible, abundant watering is carried out, spending 20-25 liters of water per 1 m2.
When using fertilizers in dissolved form (liquid fertilizers), it is necessary to dissolve mineral salts in 10 liters of water per 1 m2 of area.
Potted plants are fertilized during the period of budding and flowering at intervals of 7-12 days with a solution of mineral fertilizers: ammonium nitrate - 1.5 g, potassium salt - 2 g, superphosphate - 3-4 g per 1 liter of water. The solution should only saturate the soil and not saturate it. Before feeding, the plant must first be watered with clean water.
Bird droppings and manure are widely used to make liquid fertilizers from organic fertilizers.
The cowshed solution is prepared 6-8 days before use in the following ratio: one bucket of manure and five to six buckets of water. Until the end of fermentation, the solution is stirred periodically. The absence of bubbles on the surface indicates that the solution is ready for use, but first it should be diluted two to three times with water.
An infusion of bird droppings is made at a rate of 1:25 and infused in the same way as cow litter, but it is diluted with three to four parts of water.
Slurry is prepared without preliminary fermentation. Fresh manure is diluted in 10-15 parts of water with the addition of 10-15 g of superphosphate per 10 liters of solution.
Do not add to all types of liquid organic fertilizers for sanitary purposes. large number iron sulfate.
With foliar feeding, nutrients enter the plant not through the roots, but through the leaves and stems using spraying.
However, leaf burns should be avoided, taking into account the concentration of the solution, weather conditions, type and age of the plant. To do this, test spraying of several plants is carried out first.
For nitrogen fertilizers, a 0.1-0.3% solution of nitrate or a 0.5-0.8% solution of urea with the addition of lime is used; from phosphorus - 3% simple or 2% double superphosphates; potassium - 0.3-0.5% solution of potassium sulfate.
Spraying is carried out in the morning or evening, and in cloudy weather - during the day, trying to wet the underside of the leaf blade.
Feeding with microelements should be done very carefully, since their excess is harmful to plants. They can be applied only after laboratory soil analysis. If it is impossible to carry out the analysis, then the need of plants for microelements is determined visually by external pathological changes. Soils rich in organic fertilizers are usually provided with microelements and their additional application is not required.
The application of microelements is carried out with two or three foliar feedings at intervals of 15-20 days. Having identified the microelements necessary for fertilizing, the following aqueous solutions are prepared to treat 100 m2 of plantings: 0.01% cobalt nitrate (per 7 l); 0.03% boric acid(9 l); 0.004% ammonium molybdate (per 5 l); 0.03% zinc sulfate (per 5 l); 0.04% copper sulfate (per 4 l); 0.01% manganese sulfate (per 7 l).
Pinching or pinching. It is carried out with the aim of forming a bush, stopping its growth in height, delaying flowering or causing abundant flowering, especially in herbaceous plants.
During pinching, removing the apical shoot, intensive growth of old and formation of new lateral shoots from dormant buds is achieved.
Pinching is carried out in the initial phase of growth with a nail, knife or pruning shears. Planted seedlings are pinched only after they have taken root and begun to grow.
Stepsonning. It consists of removing lateral axillary shoots to enhance the growth of one or more stems bearing the main buds or inflorescences, as well as for growing standard-shaped plants.
Pruning is done by hand, with a knife or pruning shears, very carefully so as not to damage the stem, which can lead to its bending. The closer the axillary shoots are to the top, the sooner and more carefully they are removed. Garter. Plants with creeping, climbing, fragile or spreading stems need supports and garter.
For this purpose, stakes, trellises are installed, twine is pulled, and in closed ground - nylon nets.
The garter is carried out in a figure eight very carefully so as not to damage the stems, straightening them if necessary.
The stakes used are round, 50-100 cm long, usually painted green. They are installed simultaneously with planting to avoid damage to the root system.
When tying up spreading bushes, you should try to give them a natural shape. This can be achieved by tying one or more main stems to stakes and pulling the rest to them to the required length.
Exotic and widespread, demanding and unpretentious, decorative leafy and flowering - whatever your plants are, they need care, care and love. Universal rules There is no care that is applicable in any conditions and to all house flowers without exception. Each of them is unique, with its own character, needs and desires, which you must learn to recognize and fulfill in time. Proper care and the maintenance of domestic flowers involves their timely watering, fertilizing, replanting, pruning, creating the required conditions for growth and development, reliable protection from pests, as well as (if necessary) correct treatment. Only by feeling love and comprehensive care will plants grow and bloom, fill your home with freshness and aesthetic beauty, allowing you to create a real green oasis in urban environments.
Comprehensive care for flowering indoor plants: trust the professionals!
How much care do indoor flowers need? Caring for potted plants in a work environment is not as easy as it may seem. In addition to regular watering, indoor (office) plants need a whole range of measures that ensure their proper growth and harmonious development. We carry out a large number of plant maintenance activities:- Planting and replanting ornamental and indoor plants, taking into account the season, age and its characteristics;
- Spraying and watering flowers;
- Pruning damaged branches, removing faded flowers and yellowed leaves after the end of the flowering period;
- Feeding roots and leaves, fertilizing the soil;
- Crown formation;
- Removing salts from the soil surface and aerating it;
- Polishing leaves, cleaning them from dust;
- Cleaning and tidying up pots and pots;
- Soil replacement and restoration;
- Regular preventive examinations to identify diseased plants;
- Treatment of flowers using our own special medicinal products;
- Consultations on placement, maintenance, purchase and care of plants of any kind.
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Caring for house plants in winter
Winter care for indoor flowers requires special knowledge and preparation, because this is the time that is considered critical in the life of “green pets”. With the onset of cold weather and shortening daylight hours, many decorative flowers a period of rest begins when they are most vulnerable to drafts, cold, wind and dry air. At this time of year, when there is little light and the balance of temperature and humidity is disturbed, you need to care for plants especially carefully. Transplanting and planting, caring for indoor flowers, watering, fertilizing - all this must be carried out under certain conditions, in strict accordance with the “wants” and needs of the plant and requires certain knowledge, experience and skills. Amateur gardeners are not always able to take into account all the nuances and provide each flower with the proper comfort that will allow it to endure this difficult period for it. By contacting the gardeners of our company, you can be sure that you are giving your green “pets” to reliable hands. We will be happy to come to any site: be it a park, winter garden, private house, apartment or office, to take care of the comfort, safety and well-being of your plants. Have no doubt, our gardeners will find the “key to the heart” of even the most exotic and fastidious flower. We don't just do our job, we truly love what we do. For the summer period, a flowerpot with self-watering Lechuza is perfect![](https://i1.wp.com/iplants.by/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/14-1.jpg)
We offer three plant care service options:
One-time plant care services | Comprehensive plant services | Plant consulting services |
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departure upon request | 4–8 times a month | 1–2 times a month |
consultation: 40 BYN care work: from 40 BYN | from 400 BYN per month | from 100 BYN per month |
Cost of services for transplantation (transshipment) and treatment of plants
Name of work |
Unit change |
Cost BYN |
Cost of services for planting and replanting indoor plants and flowers: (including the cost of material) |
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First visit of a specialist to the site, inspection, consultation | <> | |
Replanting - planting a plant with a diameter of up to 20 cm. | pcs. | |
Transplantation - planting a plant with a diameter of 21 to 28 cm. |
pcs. | |
Transplantation - planting a plant from 29 to 35 cm. |
pcs. | |
Transplantation - planting a plant from 35 |
pcs. | |
Cost of services for treating indoor plants and flowers: (including the cost of material) |
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The first visit of a specialist to the site, inspection, analysis of the condition of the plant |
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Plant treatment, pest control, plant nutrition. |
pcs. | |
Transport and overhead costs | <> |
5% of the estimated cost |
How to plan and arrange summer cottage plot. 500 practical advice Filatova Svetlana Vladimirovna
Caring for ornamental plants
In the first year of life, ornamental plantings are exposed to a whole range of unfavorable factors. After transplanting into open ground from greenhouses and containers, they experience a lack or excess of lighting, they are affected by the drying force of the winds, the accelerated process of evaporation of moisture from the surface of the leaves, denser soil and gas pollution environment. For this reason, special attention is paid to watering, loosening, weeding and other work.
In the 1st week after transplantation, the plants are watered daily, and then for a month - 2 times a week. Use warm water temperature from 15 to 22 °C. Watering is carried out before 11 o'clock in the afternoon and after 18 o'clock in the evening. During the growing season, plantings are moistened 7-12 times. Sprinkling is also used, which quickly removes dust and dirt from the crowns. It is recommended to do it 2 times a week. For coniferous trees Such work can be carried out throughout the year. During the growing season, watering is combined with fertilizing with nitrogen, and then with the full introduction of mineral fertilizers.
An obligatory part of caring for ornamental plants is weeding and loosening the tree trunks, which facilitates oxygen access to the root system. The depth of loosening should not exceed 6 cm.
Such crops are usually protected from domestic animals by installing a wooden frame around the trunk.
For protection from sun rays in late February - early March conifers shaded with covering material white, leaving a small gap between it and the crown.
Normal survival is indicated by the appearance of new shoots, strengthening of roots, development of leaves and ripening of wood.
From the book Cozy home without special costs author Kriksunova Inna AbramovnaCarpet care A new carpet should be cleaned within six months with a brush or broom. If lint collects on the broom, it’s okay. Don't let this scare you: the fibers that remain after the production shearing of the product are simply removed from the carpet. And only by
From the book Loggias and Balconies author Korshever Natalya GavrilovnaFinishing decorative materials The walls and ceiling of the loggia (balcony) can be decorated with various decorative materials. Their choice depends on the functional purpose of this
From the book Gardening Tricks. Buildings and inventory author Zvonarev Nikolai Mikhailovich author Melnikov IlyaCaring for files Increasing the service life of a file is ensured by proper care. Files are stored in an anti-corrosion lubricant, which must be removed before work by washing the tool with a brush in clean gasoline or by rubbing the notch with chalk, which will absorb grease and
From the book Floors in Your Home author Galich Andrey Yurievich From the book How to plan and arrange a summer cottage. 500 practical tips author Filatova Svetlana Vladimirovna From the book Greenhouses and Greenhouses author Kashin Sergey Pavlovich From the book Home handyman author Onishchenko Vladimir100 practical tips for growing and caring for plants Summer cottages are purchased not only for recreation, but also for regular harvesting of fruit, berry and vegetable crops. For this purpose, it is necessary to systematically cultivate the soil, properly care for
From the book Wells. Design and maintenance author Lapshina Nina NikolaevnaCaring for greenhouses In the summer, when the seedlings are planted and only the species growing there remain in the greenhouses, they try to repair them and prepare them for the next season. First of all, they inspect the racks, then begin repairs and heating devices, if any
From the book Artistic processing metal Filing author Melnikov IlyaFloor care Proper care significantly increases the durability of linoleum flooring and plastic tiles. It is not recommended to move objects that scratch the floor across linoleum. The floor should be washed clean warm water, and in case of heavy contamination - warm water with
From the book The Newest Encyclopedia proper repair author Nesterova Daria Vladimirovna From the author's book From the author's bookCaring for your brushes To ensure that your brush lasts a long time and its hair does not split or fly out, certain conditions must be observed. During the painting process, the brush is turned from side to side from time to time so that the bristles wear along the entire circumference of the brush. IN
From the author's bookFinishing the ceiling with "Akminit" and "Akmigran" slabs and decorative gypsum boards. Ceiling finishing work can be carried out in two ways: installation of tiled suspended ceilings of a frame structure and finishing of the ceiling with frameless slabs
From the author's bookCaring for linoleum Caring for linoleum is simple. Usually a special coating is applied to the front surface of linoleum. protective coating made of porous, dirt-repellent material. This coating protects the surface of linoleum from damage during its operation. First
From the author's bookCaring for topling Caring for topling is simple: the coating is wiped with a soft brush moistened with soapy water or warm water at a temperature not exceeding 40 °C. Topling floors are rubbed using special rubbing mastics. It is prohibited to use it for
INTRODUCTION
care ornamental plant
In recent years, gardening and park construction has become not only in demand, but also extremely fashionable for the improvement of populated areas.
Goals course work- consolidation and deepening of theoretical and practical knowledge obtained during lectures and practical classes, course design using a real example practical work enterprises.
The objectives of the course work were:
1. Study of the organizational structure on the basis of the landscaping department of SSAU, features of functional structures;
2. Participation in carrying out maintenance work for plantings and plantings (watering, planting, weeding, fertilizing, pruning, mowing lawns, etc.);
3. Collection, processing, analysis and systematization of scientific and technical information on the topic “Natural decorative properties woody plants";
4. Study of specialized literature and other scientific and technical information, achievements of domestic and foreign science and technology in the field landscape construction.
1. LITERATURE REVIEW
A research and study of special literature and other scientific and technical information was carried out, an analysis of the achievements of domestic and foreign science and technology in the field of landscape construction was carried out.
IN modern conditions The task of green construction is no longer just to plant trees, shrubs and other plants, but to create and form highly decorative and highly environmentally effective, resistant to unfavorable growing conditions, long-term cultural plant communities (Aksyanova, 2003).
Environmental conditions have a huge impact on the development of plant organisms. The appearance, size and durability of plants depend on the influence of the external environment. Various plant organisms, under the influence of long-term environmental factors, have developed appropriate forms and biological properties that allow them to exist in certain conditions (Kolesnikov, 1974).
Woody plants on different landscaping objects are in different environmental conditions. Caring for woody plants is carried out in two directions. The first is caring for the root systems of plants - watering, fertilizing, loosening, applying fertile soil with replacement of the surface layer. The second is caring for the above-ground part of the plant - the trunk and crown by using various pruning methods (Teodoronsky, 2003).
When caring for root systems, one should take into account the morphological features of the structure of the roots and the nature of their occurrence and distribution. To ensure the life of a tree, it is necessary, first of all, to provide irrigation and aeration throughout the root layer of the soil (Teodoronsky, 2003).
The nature of a garden landscape depends primarily on the physiognomic appearance of the plants that make up its plant groups. The predominance of certain plant forms in plant groups leaves an imprint on the entire appearance of the landscape (Bondar, 1977).
Plant groups are a combination of lawn, woody and flowering plants. Assortment of woody plants great place allocated to shrubs. They are valuable primarily because they can quickly decorate an area and immediately give the plantings the necessary volume. In addition, the widespread use of shrubs in landscaping makes it possible to reduce the number of tree seedlings, the cultivation of which is quite labor-intensive and much more expensive (Chakhovsky, 1988).
The shape of the crown is one of the important decorative characteristics of tree species. Along with the irregular, spreading shape of the crown, a number of tree species have natural, clear geometric shapes, which are of great value when creating strict “regular” compositions in gardens, as well as in plantings in front of buildings and structures. The shape of a plant, perceived volumetrically, as a spatial geometric body, is formed by the system of constructing its above-ground parts. The branching system of the stem is of decisive importance - in shrubs branching begins from the ground itself, in trees a trunk is formed that branches only at a certain height. The branching system mainly determines the shape of the crown (Grozdova, 2000).
2. CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ENTERPRISE
2.1 Name of the enterprise, characteristics of its location
Stavropol State Agrarian University is located at per. Zootechnical 12. It is located in the Leninsky district of the city of Stavropol and occupies a significant territory. At the university they not only gain knowledge, but also create new ideas and directions, make discoveries, and discuss scientific theories. More than 18 thousand students study there. The university structure includes 9 faculties, 51 departments, 90 innovation laboratories and centers, as well as a landscaping department. The improvement and landscaping of the university is an integral part of the landscaping department. In 1999, a landscaping department appeared. It consisted of only 2 people, today the department has 5 people. The landscaping department is engaged in mowing lawns of trees and shrubs, laying out flower beds and caring for them, and planting flower crops. Work with gardening tools. Over the entire period of the department’s work, many flower beds were planned. Today, all the flower beds of the university are made in a regular style. To maintain cleanliness and order, a detachment of students “Greener” was created, consisting of 2 - 4 years of the Faculty of Plant Protection, specializing in gardening and landscape construction. The guys are engaged in maintenance work, planting plants, and creating projects to improve the university grounds. During summer practical training, students can bring their projects to life (http://www.sworld.com.ua).
2.2 Characteristics of natural climatic conditions territories
The Stavropol Territory is located in the center of the Stavropol Upland, in the east - the Terek-Kuma Lowland, in the north - the Kuma-Manych depression. The relief is a relatively flat plateau of the Stavropol Upland. Height above sea level - 644 m.
The climate is temperate continental. A characteristic feature of the climate is hot summers and moderately cold winters. The average temperature in January is -5 °C, in July from +22 °C to +25 °C. The duration of the warm period in most of the territory is 7 months. Precipitation is 300-650 mm per year. The growing season is 207-220 days.
The Stavropol Territory is located within the feather grass-fescue steppes with forbs and forest-steppes of the Stavropol Upland and foothills. In the east and northeast there are cereal-wormwood and hodgepodge complex semi-desert formations.
Vegetation - from broad-leaved (oak, beech) and coniferous forests(spruce, pine) to alpine meadows. In the high areas of the Stavropol Upland there are tracts of broad-leaved oak-hornbeam forests (forest-steppe areas) (Savelyeva, 2002).
3. DESCRIPTION OF WORK ORGANIZATION DURING PRACTICE
During the implementation of practical tasks, the following types of work were performed:
Carrying out maintenance work for the above-ground parts of plants: weeding, loosening and watering;
Weeding of trees and shrubs;
Carrying out specific weeding of the lawn;
Planting flower crops;
Caring for plants in the main building of the building;
Watering decorative and flower crops;
Conducting an analysis of the natural decorative properties of woody plants;
Conducting an analysis of domestic and foreign literature.
3.1 Natural decorative properties of woody plants
The most important decorative qualities of woody plants for an architectural composition are their size and crown shape.
The size of a woody plant is a volumetric indicator. It depends on the development of the crown and trunk in height and width. At the same time, for the use of wood species in architectural composition, height indicators are of paramount importance. The indicators of crown development in width are also significant, which in combination with height determine the shape of the crown (Kolesnikov, 1974).
The shape of the crown is one of the important decorative characteristics of tree species. Along with the irregular, spreading shape of the crown, a number of tree species have natural, clear geometric shapes, which are of great value when creating strict “regular” compositions in gardens, as well as in plantings in front of buildings and structures. The shape of a plant, perceived volumetrically, as a spatial geometric body, is formed by the system of constructing its above-ground parts. The branching system of the stem is of decisive importance - in shrubs branching begins from the ground itself, in trees a trunk is formed that branches only at a certain height. The branching system mainly determines the shape of the crown (Grozdova, 2000).
The leaves are additional element, which has a significant impact on the shape of the crown (Fig. 1). In many deciduous deciduous species in winter, the crown loses the shape characteristic of it in the leafy state and is perceived only as a branching system. In evergreen deciduous and coniferous species the shape of the crown does not undergo seasonal changes, it is more or less stable and is perceived as a complex of the branching system and leaf cover of the tree.
Figure 1 - Type of compound leaves (Sapelin, 2008).
Flowers and fruits, without generally changing the shape of the crown, introduce short-term seasonal changes in the texture of the surface of the crown and its color and therefore are sometimes an important decorative detail (Sapelin, 2008).
The crowns of tree species are formed in two main directions:
a) vertically
b) in horizontal
Vertical development of the crown can be:
a) straight, or ascending - when the branches of the crown at different more or less acute angles to the axis of the trunk are mainly directed upward;
b) reverse, or downward - when the branches of the crown are lowered down in an arched manner or at different angles of deflection exceeding 90.
With direct vertical branching, forming a pyramidal crown, the length of the lateral branches and the angle of their deviation from the trunk usually decrease from the base of the crown to its top. When the branches of the crown are lowered downwards, so-called “weeping” forms are formed. A cylindrical crown is formed by more or less equal lengths of lateral branches along the entire height of the trunk.
Horizontal crown development can result in the development of one of three crown varieties:
a) the crown develops equally in both vertical and horizontal directions; in this case, a spherical crown is formed;
b) the crown develops much weaker in the horizontal direction than in the vertical direction, and lateral branches reach their greatest length in the middle part of the crown, gradually shortening towards the top and base of the crown; in this case, an elliptical (oval) crown is formed. Ovate crowns, which are varieties of elliptical, have a wide rounded base and a narrower rounded top (there are ovoid and obovate crowns).
c) the crown develops more strongly in the horizontal direction than in the vertical; then an umbrella crown is formed.
In some tree species, with significant development of the crown in the transverse direction, the tree trunk does not remain straight throughout the entire height of the crown, but at a height of several meters from the ground it branches alternately in one direction or the other. In this case, the crown takes on a complex, spreading shape, lacking an axis of symmetry. Such a crown is usually called spreading, or irregular (Aksenov, 2001) (Fig. 2).
Fig. 2 - Shapes of crowns of tree species (Aksenov, 2001).
An important quality of the crown of woody plants for park compositions is its mass. The crown can be massive (dense) or light, through (openwork) (Fig. 3).
Fig. 3 - Crown density (Skakova, 2008).
The degree of openwork of the crown of woody plants has great architectural, sanitary and hygienic significance. Tree species with a dense crown allow you to clearly limit a certain space and create a good background for architectural structures or sculptures. In addition, such tree species provide better protection from dust and wind and create good shade.
Tree species with a loose, through crown, which does not prevent the penetration of sunlight, increase the play of light and shadows in plantings and with their openwork crowns do not cover architectural structures, but perfectly complement them (Skakova, 2008).
The density of the crown, as well as its shape, is determined primarily by the branching system. The branches of the crown, ending in the peripheral part with a system of large, few-branched branches, form a loose, see-through crown; if the branches of the crown end in the peripheral part with a dense network of small branches, then the crown turns out to be dense and massive.
Thus, three types of crowns can be distinguished by density:
Massive, dense (gaps are no more than 25%);
Medium density (gaps range from 25 to 50%);
Light, through (the gaps are 50% or more).
Dense crowns, in turn, can be divided into two groups:
a) dense solid - compact, in which the entire crown forms a fused whole;
b) dense, separate - compact, consisting, as it were, of several separate dense masses of branches and leaves, sometimes arranged in tiers (Kozlova, 2008).
The visual perception of the mass of the crown and its density is significantly influenced by the size, shape, color and nature of the arrangement of leaves, as well as the nature of branching.
Large leaves also do not always enhance the impression of crown density: if they are placed on densely branched branches of the crown, then the crown is perceived as more massive, but if large leaves are located on sparsely branched branches, then large leaves do not eliminate the impression of looseness of the crown.
Simple leaves in most cases create greater filling, and therefore greater crown density; Complex leaves most often give the crown lightness and delicacy. However, simple leaves with a very narrow leaf blade, as well as the dissected leaf form of tree species, form light, loose-looking crowns, even with fine branching of its peripheral branches.
The nature of the arrangement of leaves also affects the perception of crown density (Plotnikova, 1990).
The color of the leaves also greatly influences the perception of the mass of the crown: a dark-colored crown gives the impression of being heavier (dense), while a light-colored crown gives the impression of being lighter. Based on all these characteristics together, the main tree species can be divided into the following groups based on crown density.
Dense, compact crowns have: deciduous - beech, elm, hornbeam, horse chestnut, Norway maple, small-leaved linden, black alder, plane tree, black poplar; evergreens - holm oak, magnolia grandiflora.
The crowns are dense, separate and compact: deciduous - oak, Canadian poplar, poplar white mulberry white; evergreen - false camphor laurel; conifers - spruce, Siberian fir, European pine.
Crowns of medium density (semi-open) have: white willow, birch, Babylonian willow, honeysuckle, silver maple, walnut, Scots pine.
The porous crowns of light structure (openwork) have: white acacia (Robinia), honey locust, larch, angustifolia, mountain ash, common ash (Sokolova, 2004).
The nature of the crown surface (its texture) also affects the visual perception of the crown mass and should be taken into account when using decorative qualities crown shapes in park compositions. It is especially important to take into account texture when selecting single specimens (solitaires) and when organizing foregrounds of group compositions. The texture of the crown depends on the size and shape of the leaves and the nature of their arrangement on the branches of the crown.
Distinguish following types textures of the crowns of trees and shrubs:
a) large, loose;
b) large, dense;
c) small, loose;
d) small, dense.
The crowns of trees and shrubs have a large, loose texture with more or less large leaves, loosely adjacent to each other (sycamore, oak, elm, mulberry, viburnum).
Trees and shrubs have a large, dense texture; their leaves, although large, are densely spaced, filling all the gaps in the crown (horse chestnut, Norway maple, hornbeam, large-leaved linden).
Wood species with small, loosely located simple or compound leaves(willow, angustifolia, honey locust, rowan, ash, larch).
Tree species with small dense texture of the crown have small leaves that fit tightly to each other and fill all the gaps (Tatar maple, Tatarian honeysuckle, holm oak, boxwood, yew berry, evergreen cypress, thuja occidentalis) (Kholyavko, 2002).
3.2 Planting flower plants
Flower plants are very demanding soil fertility, therefore, areas allocated for flower beds are carefully prepared. Loamy and sandy loam, not heavily podzolized soils are considered the best. They are characterized by good structure and contain sufficient amounts of nutrients.
The reaction of the soil environment plays an important role in plant life. Or its acidity, referred to as pH. There are acidic soils (pH 4.4 - 5.5), slightly acidic (pH 5.6 - 6.5), neutral (pH 6.6 - 7.2), alkaline (pH more than 7.2). Most flower plants grow well in soils with a slightly acidic or neutral reaction environment (Vakulenko, 2007).
To prepare the soil, dig a pit 40 - 60 cm deep, then add organic fertilizers such as peat, humus, composts, manure, bird droppings. The soil level in the pit should be 5 - 10 cm higher than the surrounding lawn or paving, so that after it settles, the level of the flower bed is at the same level as the surrounding surface.
The prepared soil is analyzed for the content of macroelements (N, P, K, Ca, Mg) and, if any of them is missing, it is added before planting (Truevtseva, 2008)
When the soil is prepared and sufficiently settled, the contours of the plantings are outlined on the flower garden. individual species perennials and planting sites. Straight-line landings lead along the cord in a checkerboard pattern. Large homogeneous groups on the lawn are also planted in staggered rows, directed parallel to the edges of the plot or the contour of the group. Plants are planted from the center of the group or ridge to the edges. Border plants are planted last (Fig. 4, 5).
Fig. 4,5 - Planting begonias in a flowerbed with ducklings (original).
Planting material must be healthy, well developed, with a rich root system. When dividing plants, planting material of different sizes is obtained. Larger plants are planted along the periphery, and smaller ones are planted inside the group.
When determining the distance between plants, you need to take into account the nature of their growth. Plants should not be planted too densely. Tall plants with a wide bush should be planted at a distance of 60-60 cm from each other. Medium-sized plants should be planted at a distance of 40-50 cm, and low plants with creeping bushes are planted at a distance of 35-40 cm from each other (Burova, 2009).
The planting depth of perennials is determined by the biological characteristics of the crop. So, perennials with horizontal rhizomes should not be buried too deep into the soil. Most perennials are planted so that the renewal buds are at a depth of 5-6 cm. Perennials are planted in flower beds in spring or autumn. Spring-flowering species (low iris, spring primrose, fragrant and horned violet), as well as all spring-flowering bulbous and bulbous plants must be planted in late summer and autumn (August 20-September 15, and in the south 15-30 days later).
Other perennials, not blooming in spring, planted in late summer, autumn and even spring. Plants planted in spring take root better. Plants are planted in a hole, less often in furrows, without deepening the tops of rosette plants. The earth is pressed tightly against the roots. Watering plants after planting is mandatory, regardless of whether the soil is damp or not.
After planting and watering, the area is leveled and mulched with peat or sawdust. This not only retains moisture, but also protects the soil from compaction during frequent watering (Vakulenko, 2001).
Watering is a necessary condition for the successful growth of flower plants (Fig. 5). The main natural source of replenishing moisture in the soil is precipitation.
Fig. 5 - Watering flower beds (Truevtseva, 2003).
Different regions of our country are characterized by different annual rainfall. Excess moisture, as well as its lack, negatively affects the functioning of the root system and plant growth. In relation to moisture, all plants are divided into drought-resistant groups; moisture-loving.
Drought-tolerant plants include: carnation, sedum, stachys woolly, thyme, etc.
Moisture-loving plants include many species: astilbe, clematis integrifolia, fragrant veola (violet), primrose, hosta and others (Truevtseva, 2003).
The moisture deficit in the soil is replenished by watering. The frequency of watering is determined by the moisture needs of various crops, weather conditions and agrotechnical growing practices. During different periods of plant growth, different amounts of moisture are needed. Thus, during the period of intensive growth, budding, the beginning of flowering and growth of renewal organs, more moisture is required. With regular watering during this period, plants develop more powerful bushes with a greater number of flowers and large multi-flowered inflorescences. For such plants, soil moisture during this period should be 70-80% of the total water capacity. Plants of the drought-resistant group during this period require soil moisture of 60-70%. Frequent watering, but in small doses, is ineffective, since mainly the top layer of soil is moistened, and the bulk of the roots, distributed at great depths, usually experience water starvation.
Autumn watering is necessary for the normal formation of next year's regeneration organs. In the fall, they usually give one or two abundant waterings so that the entire root layer is moistened.
Fertilizer application is an important technique in planting flower crops (Fig. 6).
Fig. 6 - Fertilizer application (Loskutov, 2007).
Nitrogen is necessary for the normal growth and development of flower plants. However, commercial nitrogen nutrition can cause fattening of plants and reduce the frost resistance of perennials.
To ensure that flower plants do not lack phosphorus, the full rate of phosphorus fertilizers is usually applied when preparing the soil. Despite this, phosphorus fertilizers must be given periodically in mid-summer, since the need for phosphorus during the period of budding and flowering increases. At the end of summer it is applied under perennials to increase the frost resistance of some species,
With a lack of potassium, brown spots appear along the periphery of the leaf. With a severe lack of potassium, the lower leaves on the shoots die. The need for potassium varies in different periods. So, at the beginning of growth, the plant needs less potassium than in the budding and flowering phase. Potassium is necessary for the plant during the formation and development of renewal organs in the fall.
With a lack of sulfur, plant growth stops, the leaves lighten, and often turn completely pale (Loskutov, 2007).
Weed control is the most important agricultural activity. Overgrown weeds shade flowering plants, remove large amounts of nutrients and water from the soil, and are often carriers of pests and diseases. The greatest damage is caused by perennial weeds: wheatgrass, honeybug, spurge, bindweed, etc. It is very difficult to control them in flower beds. Conventional weeding by hoeing does not bring significant success, since new plants quickly break up from the rhizomes remaining in the soil. In this regard, the main control of perennial weeds should be carried out before planting perennial flowering plants. On Not large areas dispersing the earth through a screen gives good results. Used on large areas chemicals control - herbicides (before planting).
The most common annual weed is: cress. Quinoa, posthumous bag, agaric, woodlice. They are easy to destroy by hoeing or hand weeding. Manual weeding is most often used after flowering plants have closed. The number of weedings depends on the thoroughness of soil preparation and weather conditions (Kolesnikov, 2006).
Loosening the soil is one of the most important measures for caring for plants (Fig. 7).
Fig. 7 - Loosening flower crops in a flower bed (original).
Loosening creates and maintains a favorable water-air regime in the soil, which promotes the growth of a powerful root system and the normal development of renewal organs, and consequently, the development of abundantly flowering shoots. The loosened top layer prevents the rapid evaporation of moisture from the upper root layer, so loosening is carried out after heavy rain or watering. They also loosen the soil in order to incorporate the applied fertilizers.
The first loosening of perennials is carried out in early spring, immediately after the soil thaws. And then regularly until the bushes close.
Autumn loosening is usually carried out after pruning faded shoots. The depth of loosening is determined by the nature of the growth of underground organs (Aksenova, 2008).
3.3 Caring for the above-ground parts of plants
Caring for the above-ground parts of plants consists of a number of simple, but very important techniques that ensure the extension of the decorativeness of flower beds from annuals and perennials. Thus, in the summer, it is advisable to pinch some of the plants during the budding phase in order to enhance the growth of lateral shoots and prolong flowering for 3-4 weeks. This is done by pinching the main shoot or several shoots.
Faded flowers or inflorescences are removed in order to maintain the high decorativeness of flower beds and preserve plastic substances spent on the development of seeds and fruits (Fig. 8). The sooner the ovaries are removed, the sooner the side shoots will begin to grow and will ensure a second flowering in the fall.
Fig. 8 - Pruning faded inflorescences (Sapelin, 2008).
It is especially important to promptly prune large faded inflorescences, which greatly spoil the appearance of the site. Many plants easily set seeds and subsequently litter the area with a mass of unwanted seedlings. In this regard, in order to preserve the decorative effect of flower beds, the inflorescences are removed without waiting for them to completely fade - at the moment when they have already lost their decorative effect, although there are still 10-15% of the flowers left on them.
A number of plants soon after flowering turn yellow and die. When the shoots and leaves of these plants turn yellow, they are removed and burned.
Large plants, if not tied up, easily break or bend towards the ground from rain and wind. To preserve their decorative effect, it is recommended to tie them to stakes or a stretched wire trellis before flowering. It is best to tie it to painted wooden stakes oil paint in green. The stake should not be higher than the plant (Sapelin, 2008).
Repair of flower beds is carried out if necessary to replace dead ones or divide overgrown bushes. Typically perennials planted over carefully prepared soil and receiving good care, can grow in one place from 4 to 10-12 years. Some perennials are characterized by shorter life cycle- 3-5 years. With age, in a number of perennials, the bushes grow greatly and form either a dense rhizome or a highly compacted bush, in the central part of which there is a mass of dead shoots that interfere with the retraction of plants into the soil and the normal development of renewal organs. Therefore, perennials must be periodically removed and divided or replaced with new ones.
The removed plants are carefully examined, the diseased ones are destroyed, and the heavily compacted ones are divided, all old shoots and roots are cut out, sometimes too long roots are shortened, fresh cuts are sprinkled with crushed charcoal or charcoal mixed with sulfur (1:1).
After division, the plants are planted in enriched organic substances or fresh soil (Vakulenko, 2009).
CONCLUSION
During the practical training on the basis of the landscaping department of St. State Agrarian University, the structure of the enterprise and its functional structures. The sources of specialized literature and other scientific and technical information of domestic and foreign science and technology in the field of landscape construction were analyzed, including the works of such authors as T.N. Dyakova, T.Yu. Konovalova, T.A. Sokolova, B.C. Teodoronsky, V.S. Kholyavko, A.A. Chakhovsky and others.
Towards the end of my practical training, I studied a complex of care work for the above-ground parts of plants. The natural decorative properties of woody plants were studied. Obtained practical skills in caring for flower plants.
The collection, processing and analysis of scientific and technical information on the topic “Natural decorative properties of woody plants” was carried out.
Flower crops were planted.
During my practical training at the landscaping department of SSAU, I acquired extensive theoretical and practical skills and abilities in the field of landscape construction, which can be applied in the future.
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