Do-it-yourself table for giving. Table for a summer residence (35 photos): choice of material and self-assembly Round table made of boards with your own hands drawings

Poorly designed is best remembered dinner table. One that is too low or too high, under which there is not enough free legroom, on which there is not enough space. In order to help you design a table that will only be remembered for its attractive appearance, we will list the basic standards here.

TABLE HEIGHT. Distance from floor to upper surface covers. Usually it is 68–76 cm.

SPACE ABOVE THE LEGS. The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the drawstring is vertical legroom. The minimum distance is 60 cm.

KNEE SPACE. The distance from the edge of the table to the leg is the space for the knees when the chair is pulled up to the table. The minimum distance is from 36 to 40 cm, the optimal one is 36–46 cm.

SPACE ABOVE THE HIPS. The distance from the seat to the lower edge of the drawstring is the vertical space for the hips when a person sits on this chair, pushed up to the table. Minimum - 15 cm.

ELBOW SPACE. Side space on the table for each seated. The minimum is 60 cm, but 75 cm is much better.

HAND DEPTH. Front space on the table for each seated. Less than 30 cm will be small, and more than 45 cm - too much.

CHAIR SPACE. The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the wall is sufficient to push the chair back when getting up from the table. The architects say that a minimum of 90 cm is needed, and 110 cm would be the best option.

Table with king belt

When you hear the word "table", don't you think of a flat panel with four legs? Don't you think of just such a table, as drawn here? Yes, this design is the most original of the original. In the simplest version, a table - a typical design - consists of only three types of parts: legs, drawers and a lid (tabletop). The legs and the tsarg belt form a strong, but nevertheless open support structure. Structurally, many tables are drawbar tables, although we rarely call them that. Much more often they are called according to their functional purpose or their location: dining, kitchen, bedside, desk. Scrolling through the book further, you will come across the original designs of various tables, and many of them will return to this "basic" table. Such a table, as a rule, can be found in the kitchen or dining room. Its massiveness gives the impression of strength. Although the legs are quite massive, the chiseled profile visually reduces their massiveness. In addition, the individual dimensions of the legs make them ideal for strong carpentry joints. Despite the simplicity of the design of the table with the tsarg belt, many of its variations are possible. The table can be round, square, oval, rectangular. Its legs can be square, chiseled, tapered or carved. Even the kings can influence the look of the table.

Design options

For example, a round table with the same chiselled legs as the base table looks completely different. This excellent look is given to it by a square tsarg belt with round cap. Despite the elegant cabriole legs of the table in the style of Queen Anne, the massive sides make it a work table. The cut-out drawers at the third table make a significant visual and practical difference, making the table appear lighter and taller and providing more room for the seater's hips.

Country style table

This table is called in different ways - a country-style table, a retro-style table, a bar table - and they represent it differently. Furniture researchers usually describe it as a simple, low, oblong table on a massive underframe with turned legs and prongs. Prolegs, especially as strong as in the figure, significantly increase the durability and rigidity of the structure. With intensive daily use, prongs can increase the life of the table by years. The terms "country" and "bar" are definitely associated with the XVII-XVIII centuries, when such tables were widely used in hotels, taverns and bars in rural areas and towns. The surviving examples of such tables do have massive legs - although they are badly worn out by many legs. The table shown here is equipped with one middle prong instead of two longitudinal ones, so that it is more convenient to sit at the table. However, many early tables had pro-legs around the perimeter. The design is uncomplicated. The drawers and prolegs are spiked into the legs with reinforcement with wedges, dowels, etc. The table cover is a wide panel “in the tip”.

Design options

The easiest way to change the design of a table is to change the legs. Our "original" table has round legs - turned - and the form of turning can be changed endlessly. Just remember that you will need a flat, rectangular surface for the side-leg joints. At a country-style table, you can also change the legs - both in appearance,
and their configuration, as shown in the figure below.

Table with drawer belt and drawer

The name "table with a king belt" refers rather than to style, but to construction. This type of table is the base for kitchen, library, desks etc. Even for a workbench. A drawer or two increases the functionality of the table, since the tools that are used when using it can be stored in these drawers. In some cases, a small box is enough, in others, the largest possible one is required. There are only a couple of ways to include such a box in the design. The simplest approach is to simply cut a box opening in the drawer. For a relatively small box and a fairly massive drawer side, it is quite suitable. If the opening turns out to be so large that it creates a danger of destruction of the board, then it is better to replace the drawer with box bars. The bars can be rotated 90° so that their width matches the thickness of the leg. Spike connections provide rigidity. A design with two - supra-jaw and under-jaw - bars is preferable, since the top bar will prevent the legs from moving inward.

Design options

Installing a drawer in a round table is quite possible. But if the tsar's belt has a square or rectangular shape, then one must be prepared that access to the inside of the box will be limited. If the drawer belt is rounded, then the front panel of the drawer should be made in such a way (for example, a layered-bent or block-glued construction) so that its shape matches the shape of the drawer side.

An alternative to a table with a leg at each corner is a table on one central leg. Its tabletop is attached to a central post mounted on low, flared legs. Here, the drawers are not structurally required, but some single-support tables have them. At first glance, a table without legs and a drawer side gives unlimited legroom. However, although it does have a lot of knee and hip room, its "creeping" legs usually get in the way of the feet of the seated person. This is the price of stability: the projection of the tabletop should not exceed the area of ​​​​support by more than 15 cm. A little more - and you risk tipping the table, leaning on the edge. Critical to this design is the strength of the center post and its connection to the base or legs. The table shown here has an oval top and - in accordance with the major and minor axis of the oval - two pairs of legs of different lengths. The legs are connected to the racks tapering downwards, and the racks with the tabletop brackets are connected with double spikes into the eyes. These intermediate assemblies, in turn, are glued onto a square-core lath and form a central support that expands upwards.

The table on a support appeared in the 18th century as a small coffee table with a three-legged base. To make a dining table, carpenters combined two single-legged tables or placed an oblong tabletop on two three-legged supports. Modern models range from the simplest utilitarian to multi-rack. Structural advantage multi-column supports in increased resistance to warping. Although the area of ​​support may be noticeably smaller than the projection of the table top, a large table with this type of support can be quite stable due to the mass of the support.

Put a wide board on the goats - and you get a table. This is the ancestor of the trestle table, which is perhaps the very first type of table. Since ancient times, its form has improved significantly, but it remains an easy-to-make collapsible table. His elementary form there remains a panel or sheet of plywood on a free-standing gantry. And when the trestle stops being free standing, that's when the assembly becomes a table, because they have to be connected to each other, to the top, or both. In the table shown here, each half of the goat consists of a fairly wide stand, cut into the leg at the bottom, and at the top into the tabletop bracket. The wider the goats, the better table resists rocking from side to side. A long massive proleg is cut into the racks. The tabletop is fastened with screws to the goats, and the structure becomes one. Although there is enough legroom under the tabletop, do not forget about the leg so that, while sitting at the table, you do not get bumps on your shins. Also, the ends of the tabletop should protrude 35-45 cm beyond the goats to provide enough space for those sitting there. Many trestle tables are designed to be collapsible. Common ways of fastening parts collapsible table shown on the next page.

Design options

Think about the shape of the racks and legs of the goat - simplest way change appearance this table. Several examples are shown here. The original sawhorses looked like sawhorses and the X-shape was quite popular in medieval Europe. The Pennsylvania Germans and other Germanic settlers brought this form to America, and it is still commonly found at picnic tables. Today the most common is H-shape. Shakers (sectarians-shakers), who made many tables on the goats, usually used graceful legs "with a high rise"

The familiar dining table can be extended with an additional cover board. Then regular table for a family, you can increase to receive guests. At first glance, it may not be noticeable that this standard table with a tsargovy belt, cut into two parts and reconnected with the help of special runners. The skids can be bought ready-made or made together with the table. Each sheet of the table top must be at least 60 cm - optimal location for one seated person.

Design options

The design of the extendable table can vary, as usual, by changing the legs and side. The shape of the drawer side and the tabletop has practically no effect on the overall design. If we are talking about a table with drawers, then they work with the sliding version as usual. As the extension limits increase, it may be necessary to add an additional leg to support the middle section. And do not forget about the importance of small details - for example, fastening the drawer side to the tabletop

Extendable table on one leg

A table on one support is the basic form of a table that has some advantages over a table with a drawstring belt. If you need a folding table, don't forget to consider this shape as well. It is quite possible to make such a table both sliding and folding, and a folding cover that will expand it. The most common option is a sliding lid with an insert section. As shown on the next page, the cover is divided in two and its halves are connected by special sliding skids. Thus, these two cover sheets can be moved apart and an additional board can be inserted between them. What to do with the support is the key question for the master. For the table to be stable, the size of the lid and the area of ​​support must be close. In the example shown, the support is vertically divided into two parts, each of which is fastened to a respective lid web. When the lid is pulled apart, the support also separates.

Design options

The basic form has a support that separates when the table is extended. This is not the only option. If a relatively small, say 30–40 cm, expansion is acceptable, then extendable table can be done on a non-dividing support. Another option is to make a table on two supports. A table with a support for each sliding half can expand by 90–120 cm.

When choosing one of the types of folding tables one of the most interesting designs is a drawer system. It is simple to manufacture and use. There is nothing out of the ordinary about the basic structure of the table. The only difference from the usual underframe made of drawers and legs is the presence of slots in the end drawers. The difference lies on top of the drawstrings and legs. Instead of attaching the table top to the drawstring belt, its side sections, attached to long tapering runners, are stacked on top of the drawer legs assembly. The runners correspond to the slots in the sides. The existing central board separating the side sections is fixed with screws on the sides. The table top is laid on top of the central board and side sections, but is not fixed tightly. When unfolding the table, the side section simply slides out from under the lid. The skids have stops to prevent the section from being extended too far. When pulled out, the lid will tilt a little at first, but when fully unfolded, it will be flush with the side section. Since the pull-out sections are part of the design, you won't have to search for them in the closets and storerooms when you need to lay out the table before the guests arrive. You simply slide out a section or two - even if the table is already set.

Design options

The drawer system can be combined with any type of table support provided that the drawer side is available. Thus, a trestle table or a two-leg table (as in the figure on the right), equipped with drawers, can have retractable sections to increase the number seats. However, the system is not well suited for countertops with non-rectilinear shapes. When folded, the side section retracts under the cover and its edges remain (or should remain) visible. If the shape is different from the shape of the lid, then the table will probably look rather odd when folded. For example, a semi-circular side section under a square or rectangular lid will create a gap between the lid and the sides.

Two-leg table with sliding
sections

A table with a sliding folding lid (table top) is relatively rare. Despite the low prevalence, this is an excellent system. The table has one additional section - a duplicate of the "main" cover, this section is connected to the cover using hinges and, when folded, lies on the main section (lid). To unfold the table, the “double” tabletop is moved to its extreme position (up to half of the underframe), and then the additional section leans back onto the underframe. The upper edges of the tsarg should be covered with felt or felt to facilitate the sliding of the lid. It is not difficult to make a sliding mechanism. Each skid has a ridge that fits into a groove in its guide. The disadvantage is that during high humidity combs can stick in the grooves. Basic option configured normally as a side table. In the unfolded state, the edges of the tabletop are quite far from the base, which creates enough space under the table for those seated. The U-shape of the legs will provide enough legroom for those sitting at the ends of the table.

Design options

When folded, this table looks like a somewhat odd dining table. To limit the overhang of the tabletop over the underframe (ensuring stability), the size of the base part should approach the size of the folded tabletop. Therefore, a folding tabletop should be used on a type of table that does not look odd if the tabletop has a small overhang. good options such applications include side table (as base), side table (shown here) and other tables and tables special purpose. These tables, when folded, can be placed close to the wall. Folding covers are usually used in traditional card tables, but without a sliding mechanism. Nonetheless sliding mechanism fits here too.

A table with a folding board (or boards) is practically the “generic” name for all tables in which sections of the table top are connected by hinges. It is a common sight and has been present throughout American history. In any furniture style, from the style of the times of William and Mary to the modern one, you will find a table with a folding board. In this table, folding boards are part of the design. When not in use, they can be lowered to a vertical position, saving room space. There are many ways to keep the flaps in the raised position. The example shown here uses retractable holders - you lift the board and extend the support brackets from under it (approximately as drawer). For some other support systems, see a table with swivel frame supports, with swivel legs on a book table, and several card tables. The main thing to consider for this type of table is the width of the folding boards, which can be optimally supported by extendable or swivel/articulated arms. Make relatively narrow folding boards - say, no wider than 38 cm. For wider sections - see options with swivel frame supports or swivel legs. A long folding board, like the example shown here, will require more than one bracket. By the way, this example was received in the 20th century interesting name, which applies to a relatively long utility table with hinged lids. This name, which can be translated as "suffering", creates in consciousness a picture of a decomposed big table filled with food for hungry seasonal farm workers during the harvest season. Regardless of what we call it now, people who sat at such a table in the year 1840 or 1880 probably called it a folding table or folding table.

Design options

While a basic dining table is quite long and relatively narrow, with a rectangular top with sharp corners, a drop-down table can come in almost any size, proportion, and shape. The table top (tabletop) can have folding boards of a rounded or slightly rounded shape. On a shortened or square base, you can install a round, square or oval tabletop. You can round the corners of the folding sections or make their outer edges curved.

Table-book - Russian name table with swivel frame supports, which are hinged to the assembly of the side-leg-prong. The support post is connected to the turntable by the upper and lower crossbars. The whole support can be rotated so that the raised folding section (board) can be placed on it. The swivel bearing became the forerunner of the swivel leg. It has a lot structural elements, reflecting the state of carpentry art of the 16th century, when it appeared. But like any well-made frame, it is structurally rigid and makes an excellent support for a folding board. Although the first such tables usually had two frame supports (one for each folding board), there were often tables with one folding board and one swivel support, and it happened the other way around - there were several leviathans with 12 swivel supports. When folded, the tables were usually very narrow and save a lot of space. A large table with two swivel legs per flip board can be made to swivel both towards and away from each other. If they turn towards each other, then with the folding boards lowered, the support legs of the frames will be located next to the main legs, visually making them more massive. When rotated away from each other, the support legs will sit side by side, giving the impression of a table with six legs. The first tables were usually made in the Baroque style, with a complex chiseled profile of the legs. However, the example shown is completely modern.

Design options

A significant advantage of the book table is the ability to support very large additional sections. A solid support under the flap makes the table very stable even with one section raised. Thus, it is difficult to make a very narrow table with wide folding boards. When folded, the table takes up very little space. Unfolded - has a huge tabletop

This table can rightly be called a table with folding boards, but the swivel leg makes it stand out from others like it. The swivel leg is a descendant of the frame swivel support (see page 158). If the swivel support is attached to the table frame, consisting of the drawer side, legs and proleg, then the swivel leg is attached only to the drawer side. The result is a lighter appearance. Rather, the size, rather than the knot of the swivel leg, is characteristic of this table. The tabletop diameter of only 107 cm will be quite comfortable for four people. The swivel leg is used in card tables with small folding tops. During the Queen Anne period, a smaller version of the table shown here was called the "breakfast table" and was used both for breakfast and for games and tea parties. Larger tables will likely need additional swivel legs for better support for flip boards. The swivel - actually a wooden hinge - makes the swivel leg workable. A sleeker version than shown here makes the connection look like a metal loop.

Design options

The design of a swivel leg for a table with folding boards appeared in the first half of the 18th century. Although we chose a Queen Anne style table as our "basic" table, the swivel leg has been used in a variety of table styles. The profile of the stem will typically be the style indicator. Chippendale-style swivel-leg tables often have convertibles, but always with a claw-ball finish. Square shaped legs are also used in chippendale tables. During the federal
Hepplewhite tables were made with legs tapering downwards, as shown here, and Sheraton style tables were made with chiseled, often embossed, legs.

Folded out folding boards transform
rectangular table to square

The advantage of a table with a frame swivel base over a table with a swivel leg is the stability provided by the additional legs. When the folding boards are raised, they are supported by additional legs. A table with extendable legs also has this advantage over a table with swivel legs, but it also has one advantage over a table with frame swivel legs. Like a table with swivel legs, this table has an additional leg for each folding board. But only a narrow crossbar connects the leg to the table. These crossbars are placed in a holder of two guides installed between the longitudinal drawers, and are extended through cutouts in the drawers. The leg is attached to the crossbars. Raise the folding board, extend the leg and lower the board onto it. You have a leg under the flip board and still have four legs under the fixed table top. This structure can hold very wide folding boards.

Design options

Here are two very different tables with retractable legs, each of which has excellent stability due to the additional leg (or legs) in the unfolded state. When the card table is folded and stands against the wall, the extra leg is not conspicuous. By unfolding the game table and extending the extra leg, you will get a support under each corner of the tabletop. Perfect. Retractable legs are also a great addition for long table with folding boards. If you make two retractable legs for each board, then the table will not lose stability when someone leans too hard on it.

The table-chair owes its birth to medieval practicality. In the Middle Ages, dwellings were small and drafty. Any furniture was expensive, everything was done hand tools. And if a piece of furniture could perform more than one function - well, so much the better. The table-chair is clearly universal. With the lid down, it's a table. With the lid up - the seat. And as with most universal things, its functionality is far from perfect. With the development of the furniture industry, the table-chair became more perfect in design and elegant in appearance. The item shown here has legs and armrests attached to the sides of the seat with spike-in-socket joints. The pronounced end of the shoe-shaped legs make the chair more stable, and the armrests more comfortable. The chair even has a drawer under the seat - more sophisticated storage than a box with a lid. The tabletop is fastened with a dovetail tie-in.

You should start working, of course, after you have chosen certain model of this subject. If there are no skills in carpentry as such, then it is not worth aiming at a whole work of art. But even the simplest option in terms of manufacturing can look quite decent and even more beautiful from the fact that it will be made on its own.

A list of required tools or how to make a wooden table with your own hands using what is in every pantry

Having examined and sorted out with your own hands a lot of drawings of wooden tables, you can come to the conclusion that you will need the entire carpentry tool kit. Indeed, for comfort and fast work you will need to have the following:

1. Electric jigsaw.
2. .
3. Grinder.
4. Screwdriver.
5. A set of drills of various diameters.
6. Brushes.
7. Sandpaper with zero grit parameter.
8. Materials for processing (stains, varnishes or paints).
9. Materials for eliminating defects (wood putty and similar).
10. Carpentry vise and glue.

The list is rather big and you can think about whether it’s easier to buy a ready-made piece of furniture than to puzzle over how to make a wooden table with your own hands with a minimum of available tools. But there are no hopeless situations, so we will contrive and find new ways to achieve the goal.

• The electric jigsaw is replaced by an ordinary saw (however, there will be an order of magnitude more work to eliminate irregularities).
• There is no need for a router if the countertop is made from a single sheet, and not individual segments.
• For the same reason, wood glue along with a vise can also be removed from the list.
• You can also cross out the grinder, but it is worth clarifying that manually polishing the surface to the desired state is almost impossible. Therefore, we choose more a budget option- nozzle for grinding on a screwdriver.
• It is unlikely that you can do without a screwdriver, but this tool is available in almost every home.

Other details and materials, even if they are not in the house, then buying them is not so expensive.

Do-it-yourself assembly of a wooden table according to the drawings of a simple and waste-free design

To assemble a table with your own hands from wood according to this drawing, you do not need to be a trained specialist. The design is simple and clear, the main thing is to do everything carefully and slowly. This option is also attractive because it can be made in two forms: both a coffee table and a dining table. The only condition is that in the manufacture of the latter, support racks will be needed (they can be easily purchased at a hardware store).

Wooden table drawing of a wooden table diagram No. 1

So, the instruction on how to make a wooden table with your own hands is as follows (see diagram No. 1):

1. The preparation of the canvas is carried out (sanding, cleaning, antiseptic treatment, sealing of microcracks, etc.).

2. We transfer the separation lines from the drawing to the canvas.

3. If you move from the left edge of a horizontally laid sheet to the right, then the markup will look like this:

40 mm - line (this cut will serve as a support bar).
250 mm - a curved line (this cut will play the role of legs, in the case of a coffee table, and if a dining option is chosen, as a support stand for high legs).
900 mm - curved line (the largest segment, of course, will be used as a countertop in the future).
250 mm - the last straight line (divides the remainder into the leg and the support bar).

4. The elements that will be supporting (legs and slats) must be shortened on the sides by 30 mm. This is done so that their edges are not visible from under the countertop.

5. Putting the leg with an arc down, we see that it rests on sharp edges. In this case, we will not get the stability of the product. Therefore, we measure 30 mm from the top of the corner and make a horizontal cut on both sides.

6. We attach a bar to the top of the legs with self-tapping screws. The step between them is 150 mm.

7. We step back from the edge of the tabletop 250 mm and put the legs in this place. The self-tapping screws (4 pcs) will be screwed into the countertop through the lath, so make sure that they do not get into the transverse fasteners.

Our article on how to do it yourself for a summer residence will be useful.

Completely assembled product is painted or varnished. To obtain a high-quality mirror-smooth surface, grinding on pure wood is not enough. After coating with the same varnish, one way or another, small villi will “stand on end”. Therefore, after each applied layer, it is necessary to sand the surface with fine sandpaper. And the applied layers should be at least three. The end result is a beautiful piece of furniture at no extra cost.

A do-it-yourself kitchen table is both an opportunity to save money and a way to provide the kitchen with unique furniture that fits perfectly into the available space. However, it is important to correctly determine the dimensions and shape of the future structure.

How to make a wooden dining table

A table made of solid wood is beautiful, natural and, as a rule, expensive. But buying such a table is not necessary, because you can make it yourself with no less quality and for much less money.

So, to make a dining table with your own hands, you will need:

1. 4 things. baluster legs for the table, 73 cm high and not too thin;
2. For countertops: 4 dry edged wooden planks 1 m long (for a table 60 cm wide);

1. For the frame: 2 boards 80 cm long and 2 boards 40 cm long.

Prepare tools: planer, grinder or grinder, jigsaw for cutting boards, circular saw, drill (with 8 mm drill), screwdriver, sandpaper, self-tapping screws (30 mm), carpentry glue, dowels, clamps (preferably). And, of course, a pencil, tape measure, gloves and goggles will come in handy.

To finish the table, you will need varnish, stain or paint along with a primer. Let's make the table first. To do this, you need to accurately fit all 4 boards to the same length - 100 cm. If your boards were not sawn at the sawmill, then they also need to be trimmed in width and thickness. Then they need to be carefully polished with a planer. The better you sand the wood, the smoother the countertop will be. Work the edges well so that the boards fit as tightly as possible to each other.

We will connect the boards not with screws and nails, but with glue and dowels (chops). To do this, we make the same marks on the edges of all boards in increments of 10-15 cm and drill holes for the dowels with an 8 mm drill. Then we sand the edges and apply wood glue to them and into the holes made. Now we drive the chopsticks processed with the same glue into the holes and connect all 4 bars in turn. We remove excess glue on the surface with sandpaper and grind it, as well as all edges with a planer. At this stage, you can go over the countertop with a metal sponge to give the wood texture.

So, the tabletop is ready. Now you need to fasten the legs and make a base for it.

To do this, you need to evenly fasten the balusters with short transverse boards with glue and screws. The glue dries for at least 12 hours.

We fasten the legs to the long crossbars and drill holes in them in order to install the countertop later.

After the glue in the frame dries, you can proceed to install the countertop on it (frame).

If you want to make the table longer and wider, then you need to strengthen the table with two additional cross bars, as shown in the photo.

So, the table is almost ready, it remains only to treat it with varnish or stain or paint it, having previously primed it.

What color to paint the table? Start from personal preferences and the color of the rest of the furniture. Below is the most universal option– the tabletop and legs are stained.

You can see the main mistakes of staining a tree with your own hands in this video.

If you like gloss, then the surface of the table can be stained, and varnished on top (example in the photo below), or simply varnished.

You can paint the legs White color, and cover the countertop with stain to get a design like in the next photo.

How to make a kitchen table from chipboard

A do-it-yourself kitchen table made of laminated chipboard is a practical and budget solution. Such countertops are covered with decorative plastic, which is resistant to abrasion. AT standard version the dimensions of the tabletop canvas are 3000x600x36 (26) mm, but today it will not be difficult to purchase chipboard sheet, sawn to the desired dimensions or arrange in a furniture workshop to sell a suitable trim.

You will also need:

• Connecting and end strips;
• end edges;
• Ties.

Even if you buy a countertop suitable sizes, you will need to additionally process the ends - this will make the result more attractive, as well as protect the base from moisture. For these purposes, you can use a special furniture edging based on polyvinyl chloride or glue an edge tape. The edging option is considered more practical for a dining table and suitable for home craftsmen.

For kitchen table appropriate supports will also be needed - you can buy the legs separately or give preference to the finished base. It all depends on which option your drawings provide. The most common option is round legs D = 60 mm and 71 cm high. They can be collapsible, adjustable in height, and also differ in design - matte, painted, shiny.

In our case, these will be shiny chrome-plated legs-rods with a diameter of 60 mm, as well as a tabletop made of white chipboard 36 mm thick and a white plastic mortise T-shaped edging with girths is matched to it.

So, how to make a dining table with a chipboard top:

1. The marking is applied to the material according to the drawing. Rounding corners must have a radius of 60 mm or more.

1. The tabletop is shaped with a jigsaw.

A saw with reversible teeth should be used, otherwise the plastic coating may be chipped. First chipboard angle cut with a jigsaw with a margin of 2 mm, and then finally rounded off with a grinder.

1. A groove for furniture edging is milled.

1. The edging is stuffed. Before this, the ends of the product must be covered with silicone sealant. The sealant is laid both in the edging and on the top side of the countertop. For stuffing piping used rubber mallet. Then the excess sealant is removed.

1. The legs are attached. To do this, markings are made with a pencil on the back of the tabletop. In most cases, the legs are placed 100 mm from the edge.

To fasten the holders, self-tapping screws with a countersunk head about 20 mm long are used. After that, the legs are put on the holders and fixed with a hex key - that's it, your new table ready.

How to correctly determine the dimensions

According to the principles described above, tables can be made larger or smaller in length and width. How to choose the best size for your family?

If we are talking about a standard kitchen with dimensions from 6 to 8 squares, then the drawings will show a typical design with a height of 750 mm and a perimeter of 800 * 500 ... 1200 * 600 mm.

A do-it-yourself dining table should be calculated for a certain number of people. Usually it corresponds to the number of residents - 3-9, but a couple of free places are still added for guests. For big companies good decision will become .

Calculations are carried out as follows: the number of persons is multiplied by 60 (“working” perimeter per person). As for the width of the countertop, here we follow the recommendations of experts - its optimal values ​​​​are from 800 to 1100 mm. Narrow tables are difficult to serve, and wide tables are uncomfortable for those sitting.

If you decide to make the kitchen table oval (round) with your own hands, then you will have to calculate the circumference - diameter * 3.14.

Form Selection Rules

The shape of the kitchen table plays a significant role in the perception of space. Universal design - a rectangle or square with right angles. It is balanced and can be installed close to the wall or in the center of the room, saving space.

Quite comfortable and beautiful are and oval models, but they do not differ in large capacity - the most dimensional product will accommodate no more than 8 people. In addition, they require large areas- more than 8 sq. meters, because you can’t put them against the wall.

It can also be called a universal and traditional option, suitable for both very and for large kitchen. But it has less capacity than a rectangular table.

The best option is a rectangular table with rounded corners. How to make such a table from chipboard with your own hands, we have already described above.

Furniture care rules

After the dining table is made, you will need to take care of the long service life of the product.

So, furniture made of wood, polished and lacquered, needs careful care, as it can be easily scratched. In addition, traces of contact with hot are possible here. A universal polishing composition is selected as a basic wood care.

If we are talking about a countertop made of MDF or chipboard with a plastic coating, then caring for it is not difficult and consists in regular washing with detergents.

Do not forget that kitchen furniture must be moved away from heaters and from walls bordering the street. Direct sunlight will also be harmful to wooden furniture.

How to make a country table

Landscaping is an ongoing process. You build something, you improve it. Moreover, furniture is constantly required and tables are most in demand in the country. And put in the garden, and near the house, and also in the gazebo. How to make a table for a summer residence with your own hands we will tell in this article using the example of finished projects.

Homemade table from boards from pallets

Dismantled pallets served as the material for this table. Naturally, you can use new boards. Only one condition - they must be dry. You can buy dry ones (it costs more) or buy ordinary ones, put them somewhere in ventilated piles and soak for at least 4 months, or better - six months. In general, any furniture, including garden benches. made from dry wood.

We assemble the table for the street - put it in the gazebo, therefore we will not glue the tabletop boards, but we will fasten them from below, with the help of planks. This is a very simple country table and very cheap.

Having dismantled the pallets, we get boards with an individual color and pattern. Having conjured a little, shifting them several dozen times in different manners, we achieve the desired result. It turns out quite a nice table.

From the boards we assemble the countertop

We take the side parts of the pallet. We use them for the frame of the table. We grind them first with coarse sandpaper, then finely bring them to the required smoothness (grain 120 and 220).

Side rails will go to the side of the table

We take the strips that remained unused, with their help we fasten the countertop. We place them in the place where the joints of the boards are located. We use two self-tapping screws for fastening each board with a joint, one for a solid one.

From the processed sidewalls and two boards (also sanded), we assemble the table frame. We fix its parts with self-tapping screws at the end (two for each joint). The frame can be glued or also “planted” on self-tapping screws. Only their length is large. Under each, we pre-drill holes with a drill, the diameter of which is slightly smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screws.

Tabletop almost ready

We turn the assembled countertop over and grind it. The order is the same - first sandpaper with large grain, then - with small.

Next is the installation of the legs. We select four boards of the same size, check their length, adjust if necessary. Then - again grinding. It's easier than sanding already screwed legs. We fasten the sanded boards to the frame. These will be the legs. For each - two self-tapping screws fixed in a diagonal (look at the photo). For greater stability, we install jumpers at the bottom. About 10 cm can be left from the floor to the jumpers. We connect everything with self-tapping screws so that the boards do not crack, we pre-drill holes.

The do-it-yourself table is almost ready. It remains to cover it with varnish

After removing the dust, varnish again. In theory, the varnish should lie flat, but depends on the wood, so another sanding / painting cycle may be necessary. As a result, we get such a homemade country table.

DIY garden table ready to use

If you do not like motley boards and traces of old nails, you can make their boards the same design. This table can be rectangular, maybe square. All sizes are optional - see available space.

Country table from the remnants of the boards

This do-it-yourself dacha table is assembled from the remnants of boards different breeds and sizes. Pine boards 25 mm thick and 50 mm wide went to the frame of the tabletop, the remains of 15 * 50 mm were left on the legs. We make the frame according to the dimensions you need. This table will stand on the veranda, and it has a small width. So let's make it not wide - 60 cm, and the length is 140 cm. The height of the legs is 80 cm (everyone in the family is tall).

We collect the frame, attach the legs to it

We immediately cut off two long boards of 140 cm each. To make the width of the table top 60 cm, subtract twice the thickness of the board used - this is 5 cm. Short bars should be 60 cm - 5 cm = 55 cm. We fold the frame, following the right angles, twist with self-tapping screws. We check whether the bars are folded correctly - we measure the diagonals, they should be the same.

We cut off the boards four boards of 80 cm each, fasten them from the inside to the assembled frame. You can use 4 screws for each leg.

We make jumpers under the shelf

Approximately at the middle of the height of the legs we fasten the crossbars. This is a shelf frame. The shelf can be used for its intended purpose, and it also increases the rigidity of the structure. We fasten strictly at right angles, checking with a large square.

We put the frame on the floor, check whether it staggers or not. If everything is done correctly, it should stand rigidly. Next, take sandpaper or a grinder and grind.

Let's start assembling the countertop. From finishing works there were boards of different types of wood, some painted with wood stain. We alternate boards of different colors.

We fasten the tabletop boards with finishing nails, carefully finishing them with a finisher. On the shelf can be fixed with ordinary nails or self-tapping screws. Then smooth with a grinder. The last step is painting. Very unlucky with the choice of varnish. Bought too dark, did not like the look. Will have to sand again and paint a different color.

Homemade table for a summer residence is ready

Wooden table with glued top

This design features L-shaped legs. They are assembled from boards of the same thickness. In this case, 20 mm. To keep them well, 5 self-tapping screws are needed. Pre-drill holes with a drill with a diameter of 1-2 mm less than the diameter of the self-tapping screws. Then with a drill larger diameter drill holes for the caps. The diameter can be matched to furniture plugs of a suitable color or made from a wooden rod. Another option is to use wood putty, to which you add wood dust that remains after sanding. After drying and sanding, traces will be difficult to find.

Legs with markings for fasteners

When assembling the legs, make sure that the angle is exactly 90°. As a pattern, you can choose a bar. First, we coat the joint of the two parts of the leg with carpentry glue, then install the screws in the following sequence: first the two extreme ones, then the middle one, and only then the other two. After the glue dries, sand the legs, varnish and dry.

Table legs ready

It's time to make the tabletop. It is assembled from boards of the same thickness. Pick up the size you need. You can use snippets different widths. It is only important that everything looks organic, and the sidewalls of the boards are even and docked without gaps.

We coat the sides of the boards selected for the table top with glue, lay them on a flat surface (some kind of table) and tighten them with clamps. In this case, they managed one, but preferably at least three. We tighten so that there are no gaps in the resulting shield. We leave for a day. Having removed the clamps, we get an almost finished countertop. It still needs to be trimmed - to align the edges, and then sand it. You can trim with a jigsaw or a regular hand saw. Using a grinder is difficult to get a straight line, but you can try. After grinding, we get a beautiful countertop.

We glue the tabletop from the boards

Using the same technique, you can make an oval or round table top. It will only be necessary to draw the appropriate line and cut the glued boards along it.

To make the table look more attractive, we will make a frame. We take a thin bar, process it with sandpaper and fasten it around the perimeter of the countertop. You can also use finishing nails. Only the planks are also pre-lubricated with carpentry glue, and then with nails.

We fasten the bar around the perimeter

After the glue dries, we again process the junction with sandpaper.

This is the finished tabletop.

Now you can attach the table legs. We assemble a table frame from four boards (there is no photo, but you can do it as in the previous paragraph). We fasten it to the back of the countertop with glue, then install it through the countertop furniture confirmations. Under the confirmations, a preliminary hole is drilled with an extension for the cap. Holes for fasteners are masked in the same way as on the legs.

We attach the legs to the fixed frame. We put them inside the frame. You can attach with ordinary screws. That's it, we made a table for giving with our own hands.

Board table ready

How to make a wooden garden table with benches

For this table, boards 38 * 89 mm were used (they dissolved themselves), but you can take standard sizes. The difference in millimeters will not really affect the results. In the photo below you can see what should happen.

To connect the parts, studs 16 cm long with washers and nuts (24 pieces) were used. All other connections are made with nails 80 mm long.

We connect the parts of the table with each other with studs with washers and nuts

Parts are installed in place, drilled with a drill through hole. A stud is installed in it, washers are put on both sides and nuts are tightened. Everything is pulling up wrench. How convenient is this option? For the winter, you can disassemble and take it to a barn or garage.

Making seats

Bench drawing with dimensions

We cut the boards according to the drawing required size. Everything is necessary in double quantity - for two seats. We grind the boards, pay special attention to the ends.

We cut the short segments with which we fasten the three seat boards along the edges at an angle of 45 °. First, we assemble a structure that is attached to the seat from below. We take a board about 160 cm long, at the end we attach two short boards cut at an angle to it. Attach it so that this board is in the middle.

Bottom seat support assembly

Then we attach the legs to the resulting structure (you can use nails). Then we add more boards cut at an angle and tighten everything with studs and bolts.

We attach the seat boards to the resulting structure. Since this is a table for the street, it is not necessary to knock them down close. Leave a gap between two adjacent at least 5 mm. We nail to the supports (which are cut down), two for each board.

Fastening the seats together

We fix the finished seats with four boards 160 cm long. We fasten each leg with studs (if you walk, you can put two studs by setting them diagonally or one above the other).

We connect the legs to the boards with studs

Putting together a table

The table is assembled in a different way. Please note that for the countertop, the transverse boards are sawn along the edges at 52 °. We fasten them at such a distance that the legs enter. Each board has 2 nails. You can finish, with small hats, or you can hammer deep, and then mask the holes with putty.

How to make an outdoor table out of wood

Now we need to assemble the legs-crosses. We take two boards, cross them so that the distance between their ends is 64.5 cm. We circle the intersection with a pencil. At this point, it will be necessary to remove the wood by half the thickness of the board.

This will need to be cut

We make the same notch on the second board. If you add them together, they are in the same plane. We connect with four nails.

How to make X-shaped legs for a garden table

Similarly, we make the second leg for the table. While the table is not collected.

Installing the table

Now you need to fix the legs to the structure on which the benches are installed. We put them at an equal distance from the benches, fasten them with hairpins.

Table leg mount

Now install the table top. We also fasten it with studs. The last step is painting. Here everyone does as he pleases.

Outdoor table for giving with benches

Variations on a theme

According to this drawing, you can make benches and a table separately for giving, garden. The design is reliable and easy to implement.

Separate benches and a table for the garden according to the same drawing

You can make the appearance more decorative by slightly changing the design of the seats and table top

Another option with separate benches

Painted white

Do-it-yourself table for giving: drawings

Sustainable country table

Simple table with X-shaped legs

Wooden garden table

Homemade wooden table with cross bar at the bottom

http://stroychik.ru

Dacha is, of course, the place where you want to take a break from the bustle of the city, breathe in Fresh air and just drink fragrant herbal tea on the veranda at a table made for giving with your own hands. Such a table will not only give a special charm to such a simple ceremony, but will also become a source of pride for you and your loved ones.

Option 1. Table with legs

When choosing materials for a table, first of all, you should pay attention to the quality of wood - not all wood is suitable for use. conifers, such as spruce and pine, are malleable and easy to work with, but such material is more flammable without proper processing, and the resins released can ruin the tablecloth.

Hardwoods (aspen, oak, ash) are more advantageous, products made from them are strong, durable and have an attractive appearance.

Materials and tools

For interior design of cottages and country houses long narrow ones are more acceptable, allowing you to move freely around the room. This should be taken into account when preparing everything necessary for work and designing the table itself.

For a table, it is preferable to use a board with a thickness of at least 30 mm. This thickness will ensure the strength of the table and the ability to withstand heavy loads. The optimal length ranges from 150-200 cm. You can purchase two ready-made wooden shield size 30-2000 mm.

Balusters or wooden bars for legs. Curly balusters will give homemade table production chic and luxury look. And for the manufacture of legs from a bar, you need to choose boards with a minimum section of 50x50 mm. Comfortable Height the table is provided with a leg height of approximately 73-75 cm.

Other materials and tools.

1. Boards 20 mm thick and 8-10 cm wide for the tabletop frame.
2. Wood putty.
3. Screwdriver and self-tapping screws 30 and 50 mm.
4. Sandpaper of various grits, as well as a holder.
5. Clamps for fixing legs and countertops.
6. Electric drill.
7. Sander.
8. Building level.
9. Square.
10. Roulette or centimeter.
11. Marker.
12. Glue.

Prices for various types of building timber

Construction timber

Manufacturing steps

When preparing materials, all boards and beams are processed with a planer, grinder or coarse-grained sandpaper to remove bumps, the remains of cut knots, and clean up cracks. The boards must be even and smooth, so they are sanded from all sides, including the ends, edges and corners.

If it is planned to manufacture a solid shield without gaps, then it is better to purchase grooved materials - this will create a stronger grip on a single web and save time on fitting elements. Chamfers are cut from the edges of the bars for the legs.

Table frame assembly

The frame helps to increase the strength and stability of the table, its dimensions are completely dependent on the parameters of the tabletop, but there are several general rules: both in length and in width, the frame should be 30-25 cm less than the countertop.

Video - DIY garden table

The frame itself is assembled from 4 boards that form the outer frame, and 6 internal cross bars. The boards are installed on the edge at a right angle using a square and tightened with 50 mm self-tapping screws. The joints are pre-lubricated with glue (PVA or carpentry). To prevent splitting of the boards, you can drill pilot holes in them and only then screw in the screws.

Along the length of the frame, markings are made for the cross bars, and guides are drilled. It is very important that the cross members are strictly perpendicular to both sides of the frame frame. The ends of the cross bars are smeared with glue, and the whole structure is fixed with self-tapping screws. Make sure that the screw heads do not protrude, but are completely “drowned” in the wood.

The boards of the tabletop are connected, leveled with a tape measure and stacked on the floor face down, a frame is placed on top so that the cross bars lie tightly on the tabletop. Guides for self-tapping screws are drilled in the slats, and all elements are tightened with 30 mm screws. There are 5-6 self-tapping screws for each cross board.

Assembling the table legs

The tabletop is laid on a workbench or several stools for the subsequent installation of legs. The table leg is fixed in the corner of the frame with clamps, and guides for self-tapping screws are drilled in the frame.

Before attaching the legs, glue is applied to the end of the bar - this will protect the table from loosening and will contribute to greater strength. It is recommended to fix the leg on each side with four screws, but if desired, you can additionally use metal corners. Round balusters are fixed with long self-tapping screws on the front side of the table, and square ones - on corner fasteners.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Finishing

After installing the legs, the table is turned over and placed on the floor. Depending on the design of the table, corners are sawn off with a jigsaw along the radius or the end is completely rounded. Bevels can be cut from the edges of the tabletop and everything is carefully sanded.

If necessary, scratches and cracks resulting from work are repaired on wood. It is better not to touch the heads of the screws so that it is possible to tighten the structure.

After the final grinding, all dust and chips are removed from the table, and the product itself is covered with stain or several layers of varnish.

Tables with elements of decoupage decor or a single painting look beautiful and unusual. But to hide the beauty of natural wood under a layer of paint is not worth it, modern varnishes and impregnations will do all necessary work to protect the product from moisture.

Video - Table with legs for giving

Option 2. Stump table

An unusual and non-standard way to equip a backyard space is to create interior items from natural materials. When ennobling the territory, old or threatening trees are often cut down. If there is or was just such a tree at your dacha, then there will definitely be no problems finding a suitable stump. If the idea came spontaneously, then you can look for the desired stump in the clearings, in the nearest forest, or ask the owners of neighboring plots.

Materials and tools

To make such a fantasy table from a stump, you will need quite a bit:

• wood for the countertop, the recommended thickness of the countertop is from 20 mm, when choosing boards, you must follow the rule “the larger the countertop, the larger the cut of the board”;
• stump. For work, you will need a dried stump of any kind of wood, the main thing is that the wood is whole, not damp and not rotten. If the tree was cut down recently, then the stump must be properly dried. And do it better by placing the stump in a warm dry room or outdoors in sunny weather. It must be remembered that a few weeks is not enough time for quality drying. As a rule, the whole process takes at least two months. You can determine the condition of the wood by the ease of separation of the bark - if the bark moves away without effort, then you can get to work;
• varnish for wood water based natural shade or transparent. It is this composition in best measure emphasize the texture and dignity of natural wood;
• sandpaper of various grain sizes and a holder;
• planer or grinder;
• chisel;
• building level;
• roulette;
• hammer and nails;
• screwdriver and screws;
• abrasive fibre.

Manufacturing steps

Stage 1.

The dried blank of the future table must be cleaned of bark. For this step, a chisel or chisel will come in handy. It is necessary to remove the bark very carefully and carefully so as not to damage the wood and prevent the appearance of cracks and splits. All soft and rotten areas also need to be removed.

Stage 2.

After the bark has been removed, the stump must be leveled with respect to horizontal plane. To do this, using the level is prepared Smooth surface, and the base of the future table is installed on it.

If curvature is observed, then the shortcomings are eliminated with a planer. At the same stage of work, excessively large rhizomes of the stump and all unnecessary parts are sawn off with a hacksaw, the cuts from which are then polished.

Stage 3.

The leveled stump is ground with a disc grinder, especially its horizontal parts. The sides of the stump are also polished, and hard-to-reach places processed with coarse sandpaper. This is a rather laborious process that requires a significant investment of time.

Stage 4.

Cracks and depressions in the trunk must be cleaned of dirt and dust with a chisel, after which they should be carefully folded in half (working layer outward) with sandpaper to carefully process them from the inside. The remains of wood dust are cleaned with a brush or a building vacuum cleaner.

Stage 5.

To prevent rotting of the stump and ensure air circulation between the table and the floor, furniture legs can be attached to the base from below. The presence of legs will make it more convenient to move the table.

You can choose any legs: metal, furniture wheels or special rubberized stands. It is best to fix them with self-tapping screws to the base of the stump, the number is chosen arbitrarily, based on the size of the table.

Stage 6.

After installing the legs, we proceed to the crate of the upper part of the stump. To do this, we fill two parallel strips perpendicularly on the sidewalls, and on top two more rows of holders - a total of 6 strips fastened together with nails. This will be the frame for the countertop.

Stage 7.

We fasten the prepared tabletop boards from below with transverse slats. The shape of the tabletop can be very diverse: round, rectangular, with rounded corners. The winning option looks like a table with a round or oval top.

To give this form, you can use homemade device from a thread, a pencil and a nail: the end of the thread is tied around the pencil, and the tip of the nail is placed in the middle of the tabletop, outlining the circle with a selected radius, after which all the excess is sawn off, and the edges and surface of the tabletop are processed with a grinder.

Stage 8.

Holes and defects in the boards can be decorated with finely chipped shiny stones, filling them with varnish and processing after drying again with a grinder to smooth the surface.

The finished tabletop is fixed from below on the crate with holders on nails or self-tapping screws matched to the size.

The finished table is varnished in several layers. After applying the first layer, the product is thoroughly dried and processed with fine-grained sandpaper. This will prevent flaking of the varnish, and subsequent layers will lie more evenly.

After removing the dust, the second and subsequent layers of varnish are applied without grouting. Optional, after drying last layer can be treated with abrasive fiber - this will remove excessive shine and give the surface a dull finish.

Such a creative table will decorate any veranda, especially in a pleasant frame of green bushes or flower beds.

Prices for paintwork materials

paints and varnishes

Video - Do-it-yourself table for giving from a stump

Beech - quite often used by furniture manufacturers, as it hard rock, which is quite plastic and durable. In terms of strength, beech is not inferior to oak. Compared to oak, beech is cheaper. The color of such wood can be from reddish-brown to pinkish-yellow.

• has high decorative qualities;
• dries quickly;
• easy to process.

• afraid of moisture;
• poorly polished.

Oak is a hard rock with great strength. natural color oak stretches from yellowish white to yellowish brown with a slight shade of gray or green. Oak has a number of other advantages - very easy to use, easy to glue, practically does not rot and has a beautiful appearance.

• despite the high viscosity of wood, it is processed quite well;
• bends easily;
• decay resistant;
• lends itself well to artificial aging techniques.

• price;

Ash wood is harder than oak. The color of the wood is light and delicate golden. Most often it is used in the manufacture of bent and carved furniture or as a facing veneer.

• bends well after steaming;
• cracks a little when drying;
• when discolored, it acquires an unusual shade of gray hair.

• in conditions of humidity, wood is quickly damaged by a wormhole;
• poorly polished.

Aspen is deciduous tree. It belongs to the genus Poplar. This is a very large tree, it grows up to 30 meters in height and may well reach a thickness of 1 meter. Since it grows very quickly, a lot of wood is obtained from it.

• very high moisture resistance;
• the ability to retain heat, but not give it away;
• bactericidal (you can put such furniture in the children's room without fear that it will harm).

• not very presentable appearance;
• the possibility of darkening, both partially and completely;
• it is worth fearing that the inside of the product may begin to rot.

Pine is a soft wood, which is most often used in the manufacture of frames for upholstered or cabinet furniture. The main advantage of this type of wood is its high resistance to decay, humidity and temperature extremes. In addition, pine is one of the most common and affordable materials.

• ease of processing;
• easy to glue;
• pleasant medicinal smell that releases phytoncides.

• easily scratched and damaged.