We make the most efficient potbelly stove with our own hands. Potbelly stove: device, application, varieties of home-made and factory, drawings Do-it-yourself potbelly stove drawings and dimensions

Since home-made wood-burning stoves remain the simplest means of heating garages and cottages, in this article we will consider making a potbelly stove with our own hands. With the help of our instructions and drawings, you can make a heater from available materials - a gas cylinder, a steel pipe, and even rims.

Making a furnace from a cylinder

From old propane cylinders with a volume of 50 liters, home craftsmen got the hang of making several varieties of wood-fired bourgeois:

simple vertical stove;
Bubafonya long-burning unit, where the fuel is burned from top to bottom;
horizontal furnaces - conventional and with a secondary pyrolysis chamber.

Note. From the former gas tank, installed in a vertical position, it is possible to weld a dropper furnace on oil mining and diesel fuel. How to do this correctly is described in.

It is pointless to disassemble the simplest designs of country and garage bourgeois houses - there are enough similar drawings on the Internet. We propose to consider more efficient, and therefore economical models with modifications that increase heat transfer and efficiency of iron furnaces.

Instructions for Dismantling the Gas Vessel

Combustible propane-butane mixture filled into gas cylinders is heavier than air by weight. To safely cut the tank for the manufacture of a potbelly stove, the remaining mixture must be displaced with water. The correct disassembly technology looks like this:

When the tank is partially empty, continue working and remove the lid. Whatever design of the home-made stove you choose, the balloon will have to be cut, so the filling procedure with water is mandatory.

Vertical model with air chamber

The device of a potbelly stove - a housekeeper on firewood is shown below in the diagram. The modernization consists in adding a separate chamber with a heat exchanger in the form of steel ribs, blown with air through 2 nozzles in the upper part of the heater. Increased efficiency is achieved by forced air supply by the fan, which allows you to quickly warm up the room.

An important point. An additional chamber isolated from the firebox can also serve as a water circuit connected to registers or heating radiators. One caveat: this inexpensive version of the boiler for a summer house or garage must necessarily work with forced circulation of the coolant from the pump.

For manufacturing, you will need additional materials from the list:

sheet metal 3 mm thick on the doors and partition of the chamber;
scraps of thick iron for the heat exchanger;
fittings Ø16-20 mm for grate;
pieces of pipes with a diameter of 40-50 mm for air connection and Ø100 mm for the chimney;
asbestos cord, finished handles.

Drawing of a heating potbelly stove of a vertical design

If a propane cylinder is not available, make a potbelly stove from a large pipe with a diameter of 300-500 mm with a wall thickness of up to 5 mm. The assembly technology in both cases is the same:

Note. When making a furnace from a pipe Ø300-500 mm, it will be necessary to install the bottom of the ash pan (steel 2 mm), and the air chamber will turn out to be cylindrical.

To prevent the potbelly stove from smoking into the room, install a chimney at least 4 m high (counting from the grate). If you plan to burn sawdust, then the distance between the bars of the grate should be made as small as possible.

Due to its small size and forced supply of heated air, the stove is convenient to use for a variety of purposes - to heat a garage, cottage or greenhouse. Do-it-yourself technology for assembling such a heater is shown in the video:

Horizontal two-chamber stove

In this case, the design improvement consists in installing an additional chamber with partitions for afterburning pyrolysis gases released in the firebox during slow smoldering of firewood. The emphasis is on long burning, so the useful volume of the furnace is not taken away by the ash pan - it is taken out.

To increase the efficiency and heat transfer of the potbelly stove, the body is equipped with flat heat exchange fins on the outside, which is shown in the drawing. According to the principle of operation, the heater is similar to Buleryan-type furnaces: before going outside, the flue gases go around 2 partitions in the secondary chamber, giving off heat to the iron walls.

In addition to two tall 50-liter cylinders or a steel pipe with a diameter of up to 500 mm, for the manufacture you will need:

metal 3 mm for the ash pan and doors;
steel strips 2 mm on the ribs;
any suitable metal for legs;
a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm and a length of 15 cm to the chimney pipe;
reinforcement for grating reinforcement;
asbestos cord for sealing doors.

Trimming and docking of propane vessels, installation of door frames and ash pans

The manufacture of the furnace begins traditionally - with the disassembly of the cylinders. The bottom part is cut off from one, and in the second, an opening is made for the doors and slot-like holes in the side wall - future grate. In order for the combustion products to pass into the secondary chamber, on the other hand, a round hole with a diameter of about 10 cm is made. The further procedure is as follows:

So that the grate bars do not bend from high temperature, weld reinforcement from the reinforcement from the periodic profile from below.
Make a frame on the end and place the door, sealing it with asbestos.
Weld the ash chamber with the door and install the legs.
On the second cylinder, cut out the walls in such a way as to dock it with a horizontal firebox at an angle of 90 °. Inside, fix 2 partitions by welding according to the drawing.
Connect the secondary chamber to the firebox, carefully welding the joint seam.
Install the chimney pipe and external heat exchanger fins.

Advice. Partitions in a vertical chamber are best made from semicircular pieces cut from the sides of the second tank. This will increase the heat extraction from the flue gases.

The resulting potbelly stove for giving is quite capable of providing heating for various utility rooms, including a steam room in a bathhouse. It is easy to adapt it for cooking by making a flat cooking surface of 4-5 mm metal on top of the firebox.

Heater from car rims

The advantage of rims is a decent thickness of the metal. If you make a potbelly stove out of them, it will not burn out for a long time, although you cannot call such a product beautiful. Here are some tips for making:

If only two rims were found on the farm, you can assemble a combined version of the potbelly stove by inserting a section of a steel pipe of a suitable diameter between them. How such a stove is made, see the video:

Classic steel potbelly stove

From iron sheets with a thickness of 3-4 mm, we propose to weld a wood-burning stove shown in the photo. Outwardly, it looks like a classic rectangular potbelly stove with low efficiency (up to 40%), but inside the design has undergone modernization. To make it more economical, two smoke teeth are arranged above the combustion chamber, like those of brick fireplaces.

The partitions inside the body, shown in the drawing, block the cross section of the firebox in the horizontal plane and leave a small passage 10 cm wide for combustion products. The flow of heated gases through two smoke circuits gives an increase in heat transfer by 5-10%, which is much better than factory cast-iron stoves.

Advice. The dimensions of the heating unit indicated on the drawing are not an axiom, you can change them at your discretion. The main thing is to maintain the size (height) of the gas ducts. We do not list the required materials, since their list is obvious - sheet metal, pipe cuttings for the chimney, and rolled metal for grates and legs.

The production order is as follows:

Weld the body of the potbelly stove, starting from the hearth sheet. Primary assembly of parts is carried out with tacks.
Cut and install 2 partitions. For the lower one, located above the flame, it is worth taking thicker iron - 5-6 mm.
Make a grate and place it on supports from the corners welded from the inside to the side walls of the firebox.
Attach a cover and a chimney pipe, mount simple doors with locks.
Finish all seams.

If you expect to heat a potbelly stove with small fractions of coal or sawdust, make a grate from steel corners turned downwards with a profile. Make the distance between them minimal - 5 mm.

Conclusion

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

To create this option, the following types of material are needed:

metal sheet, several pieces, 5 mm thick. From them we will make all the details, blanks.
Pipes for making some structural elements.
Chimney pipe.

Process of creation

In the drawing below of a potbelly stove, all the necessary details are presented, indicating their dimensions.

So, we will divide all the work on creating a potbelly stove using mining as a raw material into successive steps:

We mark all the necessary details on a sheet of metal, after which we cut them out using a grinding machine. The resulting blanks need to clean the edges well.
We take a pipe of the required length, and drill round holes in it. In the future, with the help of this pipe, the upper and lower containers of the stove will be connected.
We take the upper tank and cut an opening of the required size from above. This opening will not be located in the center, but will shift to the left of it. We prepare this hole for the chimney.
From the bottom side, cut out the opening, shifting it to the right. It will serve as an inlet for the connecting pipe.
We weld two circles to the part of the pipe, which determines the thickness of the upper container.
We will do the same with the bottom of the stove. But now we will cut the opening for the incoming connecting pipe in the center of the tank. In addition, you need to cut another hole - a neck through which we will fill the furnace with fuel. On this hole we provide for the presence of a sliding cover.
We weld 3-4 legs on the back of the lower tank. This will provide stability.
To give rigidity to the structure, to strengthen it, we connect both tanks to each other using metal brackets.
The main working moments are completed, it's time to think about beauty. We carefully clean the welds, and then paint the stove using heat-resistant paint. Painting the stove will also help protect it from premature rusting.
The last step is the installation of the chimney.

Principle of operation

The operation of this type of potbelly stove can be described as follows: pour used oil into the lower container through the neck. Next, using a torch or paper, set fire to the fuel through the opening. As soon as the raw oil flares up in the tank, close the hole with a sliding lid.

The combustion process is enhanced by air entering the connecting pipe through the holes made. The air warms up and rises through the pipe to the upper part of the structure, while heating the surface of the container so that it is easy to warm the kettle on it. A big plus of such a model of a potbelly stove is that there will be no unpleasant situations with a lack of fuel, since motorists always have used oil in the garage.

Why it is impossible to extinguish boiling oil, fat, paraffin with water. If you use the stove for working out, then you must have a fire extinguisher and sand.

Model No. 2 - stove-stove from a metal barrel or pipe

For this design, a metal barrel or pipe is taken, with a certain diameter. A great option for a cottage in the country, and if you still assemble it beautifully, ennoble it, it will look quite good in a residential area, while also heating it perfectly.

Step-by-step execution instructions:

We take a container for the stove and mark two rectangles. These will be the entrances for the firebox and the ash pan. Cut out these holes.
We do not throw away the cut rectangles, as they will serve as material for the doors. To do this, each door is brought to the required size, for which it is framed with metal strips. Next, install the handle-latch.
Inside the container (barrels, pipes), stepping back 10 cm from the firebox door, we attach the corner brackets. We will then place a grate on them.
You can buy a grate ready-made, or you can do it yourself by welding it from reinforcing bars.
If a pipe was taken as the basis, now its bottom and upper part should be welded.
To give stability, lifting above the floor to the bottom of the container, we weld several legs.
In the upper part of the tank we prepare an opening for the chimney, where we then weld it.
We fix the hinges and hang the doors on them. We mark and fix the hook under the lock.
An important role is played by the appearance, so you should clean the surface, the seams. Coating the stove with heat-resistant paint will allow our design to compete with the factory model.
When the furnace structure is fully assembled, it is necessary to connect it to the chimney, which we bring out to the street.

This type of potbelly stove is a good option for space heating, provided there is enough space, since the stove is quite large. But another plus is its capacious top panel, on which you can install both a kettle and a frying pan.

Model No. 3 - a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder

The gas cylinder has an almost perfect, ready-made shape for a furnace design. A cylinder stove is well suited for heating a garage and a country house.

Consider how you can build a furnace from a cylinder:

Let's start by cutting off the top of the cylinder, where the valve was located, and weld a plug here.
Next, cut a square opening at the bottom of the balloon. This will be the entrance to the firebox. We will not throw away the cut off part, since we will make a door out of it. It is only necessary to scald this part, bringing it to the desired size.
We weld the hinges, install the door, attach the handle-lock to it.
On the side of the cylinder, which will become the bottom of the structure, we make holes. They will take on the function of the grate.
We prepare the box, making it from a metal of smaller thickness, and fix it under the holes - a grate. The box will play the role of an ash pan, into which the remains of combustion products fall, and at the same time acting as a blower. You need to attach a door to the ash pan.
For the furnace design, it remains to make the legs. To do this, use a pipe or a metal corner. By welding, we will attach them to the bottom of the fuel tank.
In the upper part, on the opposite side of the firebox, we cut an opening in the ash pan and weld the chimney pipe.
If desired, a cooking panel can be built on the upper plane of the stove. This is done simply - a frame of steel reinforcement is welded. Such a panel turns out to be quite roomy, you can put two items at the same time.

Model No. 4 - rectangular potbelly stove

According to many experts, this type is considered the most optimal, aesthetic, compact of all the models of potbelly stoves listed above. This design is perfect for heating a residential area.

Rectangular potbelly stove can be made in two variations:

Main purpose

The main task of a rectangular-type potbelly stove is to heat a room up to 15 square meters in size. m. An ordinary potbelly stove is characterized by rapid heat transfer, but at the same time it cools down very quickly as soon as the firewood burns out. This minus can be partially eliminated by lining the oven with bricks. But this is not an option, since bricks will significantly slow down the rate of heat transfer, and save thermal energy only for a short time.

Furnace modernization

Changes made to the design of the potbelly stove, a different way of supplying fuel made it possible to improve operational properties. At the same time, its main positive characteristics were preserved: fast heat transfer, small dimensions, ease of installation, arrangement, without additional construction of a foundation, creation of a capital pipe.

What did they do for this? In the fuel tank itself, its upper part, 2 plates were welded in, which form a labyrinth. Thus, the path of passage of gases was increased, which means that they leave more heat in the furnace. Due to the expansion of metal surfaces, heat exchange between gases and vessel walls has become more efficient.

The fire-fighting components of this model have also been improved: its chimney does not heat up, but remains hot at the same time. The correct position of the pipe head will provide sufficient traction. In this case, the head is placed so as to exclude being in the zone of high pressure, whatever the wind. Therefore, it would be better to install it higher than the roof ridge.

Since there is a reserve of thrust, which is formed due to the temperature of the furnace gases, it is possible to install several additional plates in the furnace - labyrinths. This will greatly increase the efficiency of the furnace device.
Another feature of such a stove is the most dense arrangement of doors on the fuel tank body. This is possible due to the implementation of high-quality straightening and cleaning the doors on emery. In this case, the door handles are made in the form of wedges. They are not just handles, but also hecks that go into the holds.

Furnace operation

The process of using, the operation of the furnace is as follows: work begins with the heating of the furnace with chips, splinters. When there is no draft, the lid is removed from the brewing opening, and burning paper is placed under the pipe, and the lid is put back in place. You can regulate the combustion process by fully or partially opening the ash pan door.

When the required air temperature in the room is reached, you need to put four not very thick logs, 40 cm long, into the stove on the coals and then close the doors well. The lack of oxygen leads to a decrease in the intensity of combustion, which turns into smoldering. Humidity, size, wood species affect the smoldering process, which can last several hours. And all this time the furnace will give off heat to the environment.

In an insulated house, without gaps, even on cold days with sub-zero temperatures, you can safely spend the night, having such an oven for heating.

As for the danger of carbon monoxide poisoning, this is excluded. The carbon formed during combustion is much lighter than air and furnace gases, so it is drawn out, floats out through the chimney. Moreover, the combustion process is regulated with the help of doors, and not views. Even if the doors are left open, you are only in danger of quickly burning the fuel.

Preparation method

Immediately, we note that you can take your own sizes, based on the material available. We used a sheet of steel 200x450 mm. At the same time, its thickness was 3 mm.

To assemble such a potbelly stove, you can perform the following operations:

Weld together the walls of the structure.
Weld the lid on top.
Set the labyrinth plates, the grate of the grate, attach them using welding. In order to maintain the distance between the plates and the grate, place wooden blocks between them. They do not need to be specially removed later - they themselves will burn out during the firebox. Some recommend making a grate for the grate not from rods, but to use a sheet with holes, 20 mm in diameter, for this.
Make the bottom for the stove.
Install the flue pipe. It is better to take a steel pipe with thick walls. An important point: the pipe must be all-welded throughout the entire location in the house. If the pipe is straight, then it's easy. When it is necessary to bring the pipe outside through the wall, it is recommended to make a wire template and weld the pipe and turns on it. Outside the house, outside, the pipe can be extended by simply putting one piece of pipe on another.

Why should the pipe be solid indoors, because a bad-smelling condensate appears in the pipe under the influence of furnace gases. It is he who, seeping through loosely adjacent joints, spreads a specific smell.

Fire Safety Rules

To improve operational safety the furnace is installed on refractory material, such as bricks, asbestos-cement board. To protect against falling coals, sparks, the floor near the doors is covered with a metal sheet or tiles are laid.

To protect walls, furniture and other things from ignition, protective screens made of asbestos-cement sheets are attached to the walls of the potbelly stove. In this case, it is possible not to cover the boiler surfaces with heat-resistant material. Screens are mounted on threaded studs or bolts with bushings.

Although the pipe is not as hot as in other models, it is still worth passing it through the wall using a notch. It implies the presence of a pipe in it, maintaining a distance of 20 cm. In this case, the empty space is filled with a mixture of asbestos and liquid clay.

That's all the rules, the implementation of which will ensure safe operation.

Outcome

We have considered the most effective potbelly stove that you can make with your own hands. Unfortunately, there is no clear leader among them. There is an option for every situation.

But still, the most effective potbelly stove can be called a working furnace. In it, the efficiency is maximum, because there is the effect of pyrolysis (burning out of gases).

In second place is a rectangular potbelly stove with an internal labyrinth of gases. This also greatly improves efficiency.

I would like to note that each of the furnaces has great potential for improvements and improvements. On the Internet, there are a lot of different options for how to increase the efficiency of a potbelly stove. From directing a fan to it, to creating a water circuit. We will cover these points in a separate article.

Conclusion

Each stove has its pros and cons. Each is suitable for certain conditions. But she can serve you for a long time, helping in many household chores, and not just in heating the room. To do this, you just need to think carefully, choose the model that is right for your room.

But if you do not have sufficient skills, then you can always buy a stove. At the local forum in your area there will always be a craftsman with ready-made products or ready to make an oven to order.

The potbelly stove has always helped out in emergency situations and has been a reliable assistant to summer residents, motorists with a garage, as well as owners of small private houses. Today, it often takes on a new look, developed by interior designers, so it fits well into the halls of elite mansions. Is it possible to make this useful, and sometimes simply necessary, heating device with your own hands if you do not have enough experience in welding and cutting metal? Of course, yes, and once again, yes, in order to weld a potbelly stove, you just need to understand the general principles of metal welding, even if you get a crooked seam - you can always clean it with a grinder, look at the photo below, which furnace the novice welded, which the welding machine held only twice in a lifetime:

Tools required for the job

For the manufacture of any metal structures, a certain set of tools is required, which include:

Welding machine, at least 200A and electrodes, protective mask and suit for welding;
Bulgarian (grinder), cutting and grinding wheels for metal. Some curly parts can only be cut with a gas cutter.
Skimmer(a hammer);
Metal brush;
Ordinary hammer, chisel, pliers;
Roulette, folding rule and chalk for marks;
Drill and drill bits for metal.

Types of homemade bourgeois

For different rooms, you can choose your own type of potbelly stove, which is more suitable in terms of technical characteristics and appearance. They are made from metal tanks, pipes of medium diameters, barrels, gas cylinders and sheets with a thickness of at least 3-5 mm.

For heating in the garage, any of the options for a potbelly stove is suitable, but for use in a residential area, it is better to refuse some models.

Therefore, you need to consider the most popular options for potbelly stoves in order to find out which one to choose and make yourself.

Potbelly stove at work - simple and cheap

This is exactly the option that is not very suitable for use in rooms where people live. The explanation is simple - when burning, oil mining emits a specific smell, even if a good hood is arranged.

Sheet metal is required for the manufacture 4-5 mm thick, from which all the necessary details will be cut. A pipe is also needed for the manufacture of some elements of a potbelly stove and a chimney.

In the diagram below, all the dimensions of the parts need to prepare.

On a metal sheet, an accurate marking of all elements is made and cut out with a grinder. All edges of the parts are carefully cleaned.
Round holes are drilled in the prepared pipe of the required height. It will connect the upper and lower containers of the potbelly stove.
In the upper plane of the upper tank, in the place indicated according to the scheme, a hole of the required diameter is cut. It is offset from the center to the left side and will be intended for the chimney pipe. On the bottom wall, the hole is offset to the right side of the circle, and the connecting pipe will enter it.
Two circles are welded to a piece of pipe, which will determine the thickness of the upper tank.
Do the same for the bottom of the oven. Only a hole for the pipe to enter is cut in the center of the circle. In addition, another one is cut out, which will serve as a neck for filling the furnace. A sliding cover is attached to it.
Three or four legs are welded onto the lower solid plane.
For rigidity, the upper tank is connected to the lower metal brackets.
In order for the stove to be beautiful and not rust, all welds are well cleaned, and then all surfaces are painted with protective heat-resistant paint.
The last step in the work is connecting the furnace to the chimney.

Such a furnace works as follows: mining is poured into the lower tank, then with the help of a torch or rolled paper, it is ignited through the hole. The sliding cover on the hole is closed after the mining inside the tank lights up. Oxygen entering through the holes in the pipe that connects the two tanks contributes to intense combustion. Hot air passing through the top of the stove heats it up to a high temperature, so you can easily heat a kettle on its surface. Since there is always spent fuel in the garage, there will never be problems for refueling the potbelly stove.

Potbelly stove from an old barrel or pipe

This stove can be made from an ordinary metal barrel or a pipe of a certain diameter. It is quite suitable for installation in a residential area of a summer residence, and with a beautiful, neat design, it can also be suitable for a residential building.

At the desired level of the future furnace, two rectangular holes are marked and cut out, which will be the entrances to the furnace and ash pan.
The cut parts are useful for making doors. They are framed with metal strips, bringing them to the desired size, and a special handle with a latch is installed.
About ten centimeters below the firebox door, inside the barrel or pipe, corner brackets are welded on which the grate will be laid.
The grate can be independently welded from reinforcement.
If the stove is made of a pipe, its bottom and upper part are welded.
Legs are welded to the bottom bottom part.
A hole for the chimney is cut out in the top panel, and a pipe is welded into it.
Then the doors are installed on the fixed hinges. According to their location, a hook for the lock is marked and fixed.
In order for the oven to have an aesthetic appearance, all welding seams must be carefully cleaned. If then the oven is covered with heat-resistant paint, then it will be impossible to distinguish it from the factory product.
Then, when the stove is completely ready, it is connected to the chimney brought out into the street.

In general, a good option for a potbelly stove, if there is enough space for it in the room, since this model will take up a fairly large area. It should be noted that the top panel of the potbelly stove is large enough, and you can safely install a kettle or, for example, a frying pan on it.

Potbelly stove from a bad gas cylinder

The gas cylinder has an almost ready-made shape for a good potbelly stove.

The top of the cylinder with a tap is cut off, and a plug is subsequently welded to this place.
A square hole is cut in its bottom part, which will serve as the entrance to the furnace. The cut part should also not be thrown away. It is scalded, and thus the canvas for the door will be ready.
A handle lock is attached to it, and the door is installed on welded hinges.
Holes are made on the wall of the cylinder, which will be the bottom of the future stove - they themselves will play the role of a grate.
Under them, a box made of thinner metal is fixed by welding. It will be an ash pan, for dumping waste from burnt firewood, which at the same time plays the role of a blower. It is also necessary to fix the door to the ash pan.
After that, the legs are welded - they can be made from a metal corner or pipes.
A round hole is cut in the upper back of the potbelly stove, a chimney pipe is welded into it.
If necessary, you can also arrange a hob on top. To do this, it is enough to weld a frame of steel reinforcement on the top of the cylinder. On such a hob, it is quite possible to place two items - for example, for cooking and heating water.

A potbelly stove from a gas cylinder is perfect for both a garage space and a room in a country house.

One of the home masters shares his experience on how to make a potbelly stove with his own hands from a cylinder with its vertical arrangement:

Video tutorial on building a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder

Potbelly stove made of rectangular sheet steel

This is perhaps the most optimal, an aesthetic, compact version of all the bourgeois stoves proposed above. It is best suited for heating residential premises. The design of this stove is clearly visible in the two diagrams presented.

Compact, easy to perform "Gnome"

The first of them shows the oven "Gnome". It has a simple structure: two chambers - a firebox and an ash pan, a chimney pipe and legs.

The second diagram shows a more complex internal design of the potbelly stove, which will help it retain heat for a longer period. This potbelly stove is worth considering.

To make this stove, you will need sheet metal, at least 3 mm thick, a 5 × 5 cm corner, a chimney pipe, and a cover for the burner.
On metal sheets, markings are made and all the necessary details are drawn: the walls of the furnace, the bottom of the potbelly stove, the hob; grate, two internal metal plates that direct the flow of burnt gases, afterburn them, and delay the rapid release of heat.
Two rectangular holes are cut in the front wall of the furnace for the firebox and the blower. Here, doors with locks and heck for them will subsequently be fixed on the hinges.
A neat opening for the burner is cut out in the upper plane (depending on the size of the purchased part), as well as a hole for the chimney.
Legs are attached to the bottom, bottom part.
The side panels mark the place where the grate will be placed. Corners are welded to these places, they will become brackets for the grate.
In order to make a grate, you can drill a large number of round holes in a sheet of metal, or weld a lattice of reinforcement.
In the upper part of the potbelly stove, at a distance of 16 cm from the hob, a plate is welded, having a length of 8 cm less than the depth of the potbelly stove, i.e. it should not reach the rear wall of the furnace body by 8 cm.
The same plate is welded to the back wall, 8 cm above the first plate, it should not reach the front panel also by 8 cm. Thus, after mounting all the parts, a labyrinthine a corridor through which hot air will pass, heating these plates, and not allowing the heat to immediately go into the pipe.
Next, you need to mount together all the details of the potbelly stove by welding. All joints of parts are necessarily reinforced with a metal corner.
Lastly, the chimney pipe is welded, and all welds are cleaned.
To give the potbelly stove a spectacular look, it is painted with heat-resistant paint.

Rules for the safe installation of a potbelly stove

In order for home-made to bring only comfort and warmth to the house, and not create problems, it is necessary to follow safety rules.

The stove is installed on a fire-resistant surface. It can be arranged from tiles or in the form of brickwork. The walls around the stove also need to be protected from overheating. This can be done with fire-resistant special drywall or other non-combustible material.
Flammable materials must not be placed near the firebox.
The room where the oven will be located must have a good ventilation system. This is important in order to exclude the possibility of accumulation of carbon monoxide in the room.
For the manufacture of any potbelly stove, it is necessary to use only high-quality material.

The potbelly stove will serve both effectively and for a long time, it will be a good helper in household chores and will warm you on winter evenings. The main thing is to think over the model well, make it carefully, and observe all the requirements for safe handling during operation.

And in a private country house, and in your own garage or workshop, it is always nice to have a mobile or stationary potbelly stove. To date, many different models of these heaters are on sale, but they can be expensive. Therefore, if you have experience working with metal, suitable material and the right tools, often stoves are made independently.

It is up to the master to decide which model of a wood-burning potbelly stove to choose with his own hands, since these home-made devices can have a very different look and be made both from new material and from improvised metal objects.

Craftsmen have learned to adapt metal barrels with walls 2.5-3 mm thick, gas or oxygen cylinders, pipes of medium diameter, metal sheets and even disks from large automobile wheels for the manufacture of stoves-potbelly stoves.

Tools for making potbelly stoves

To work with metal, you will need special tools, some of which are available in almost every private house, while others will have to be bought or rented.

Angle grinder machine - "grinder" and consumables in the form of cutting discs and grinding wheels.
A welding machine with a power of 200 A, as well as consumables - electrodes Ø 3 and 4 mm. In addition, you will definitely need a special mask and protective suit.
Metal brush.
Slag hammer.
Measuring tools - a folding ruler, a long metal ruler, tape measure, chalk or marker.
Pliers, hammer, chisel.
Drill with drills for metal of various diameters.

The choice of stove model most often depends on where it is planned to be located, since residential premises require a more aesthetic appearance of the heater and increased safety. Therefore, for installation in a house, an option made of metal sheets or a piece of medium-diameter pipe is best suited.

Any of the existing models is suitable for, but it is better to choose one that will help not only bring heat into the room, but also warm the water.

To finally make a choice, it is worth considering different options and familiarizing yourself with the process of their manufacture.

Gas bottle stove

The installation of a potbelly stove from a cylinder can take place in different ways:

Using one cylinder with its vertical or horizontal arrangement;
Using two cylinders that are installed perpendicular to each other.

The second model will give more heat, since the heating area of the furnace is almost twice as large.

The cylinder itself has a neat appearance, you can make a hob on it, and if you give the finished stove a decent appearance, then it can be installed even in a living room.

Materials for manufacturing

For the manufacture of the first model will need one cylinder, for the second, respectively, two, but besides this for the manufacture of oven will need:

A steel sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm - a jumper between the firebox and the ash pan, as well as a hob will be made from it.
If you want the stove to look more respectable, then you need to purchase a finished cast-iron door with a cast pattern for the firebox and ash pan.
If the appearance is not so important, then the door can be made from a fragment of metal cut from the cylinder itself or from a steel sheet.
Chimney pipe with a diameter of 90 — 100 mm.
Reinforcing bar with a diameter of 12 — 15 mm or steel corner for the manufacture of the grate and legs. cast iron can also be purchased at a specialized store, or the bottom of a horizontally laid cylinder, in which holes are drilled, can serve as a grate.

Any of the models can be made not only from large cylinders, but also from small ones - this will depend on the place allotted for the furnace.

Gas cylinder preparation

Before starting work, the cylinder must be prepared, especially if the container is not new, but has already been in operation. In this case, a certain concentration of gas can always remain inside the cylinder, and if a spark occurs during its cutting, an explosion is possible. It is impossible to neglect measures for the appropriate preparation of the container, since do work it will be extremely dangerous.

Preparation is carried out in the following sequence:

First of all, the valve, which is located on top of the cylinder, is unscrewed, the hole in which it is installed is released. The container is left on the street or in the utility room for about a day, filling it to the top with water.
After this time, the water from the cylinder is drained. In this case, it must be taken into account that the liquid will have an unpleasant odor, so it must be drained away from housing.
The washed cylinder may well be used in operation, since the last remaining gas must be removed from it along with water.

Making a vertical furnace from a cylinder

The first step is to mark the prepared cylinder - it indicates the location of the firebox and ash pan. For this procedure, you will need a marker and a flexible measuring tape - thanks to her rather rigid, but elastic tape can be measured and drawn locations doors.

The next step is to carefully cut out the marked parts with the help of a grinder. Cut fragments are almost always used for further work.

Cutting openings for the firebox and ash pan doors

These elements are scalded, adding bumpers, hinges and a latch-handle, and they make excellent doors.
Next, the inner diameter of the cylinder is measured, and according to this measurement, a ring is rolled up from a thick wire, which will become the basis for welding the reinforcement. Thus, a grate for a furnace is made.
Then, the installation level of the grate is outlined. The grate should be located 30 ÷ 50 mm below the edge of the cut opening for the firebox door. The grate becomes, thus, the separator of the chamber of the ash pan and the firebox. Reinforcing bars are welded at a distance of 8 ÷ 10 mm from each other.

Hinges attached to the door are welded to one side of the firebox opening. It is very important to accurately align the installation site so that the doors close and open easily.

On the opposite side of the loops, a hook-loop for the valve, open from above, is fixed. It must securely keep the door closed while the oven is heating.
In the same way, the door is fixed on the ash pan.
It is recommended to cut off the top of the cylinder to weld on top of a round metal panel that will act as a hob.
The chimney can be removed both through the top of the cylinder and through the rear or side wall of the furnace. If you choose the second option, then the top hob will be much larger, as it will be freed from the chimney.

If the cylinder stands vertically, it will take up much less space than the horizontal version, but you must also remember that any oven should be located at a distance of 200 mm from the wall, and the walls themselves must be covered with heat-resistant material.

Effective potbelly stove from two gas cylinders

To make such a potbelly stove, you will need two cylinders, which, when heated, are able to heat the room much faster. In addition, if desired, it is quite possible to arrange a hot water tank in the vertical part of the furnace, if you install a hermetically sealed container inside, bring the tap out and cut in the pipes for supplying and extracting water.

The first step is to prepare the balloon, which will stand horizontally. The upper part is cut off from it, so that a round hole with a diameter of about 30 - 35 mm is less than the inner diameter of the cylinder.

In the bottom part of the future furnace, holes with a diameter of 10-12 mm are drilled in several lines, which in this case will serve as a kind of grate.

A metal box is welded under this "grate" - this will ash pan-blower. It is then necessary to install a tightly closing door on it, which prevents coal and ash from falling out. As an air regulator she used this model will not.
Legs from corners or fittings are welded next to the ash pan.

A round hole is cut out on top of a horizontally located cylinder, from the side opposite the furnace door, on which the vertical part of the furnace will be installed.

A door is installed, which is best made from the head of another cylinder. A hole is cut out in the center, into which a branch pipe with a diameter of about 76 mm is welded. This branch pipe is equipped with a valve, with which you can regulate the flow of air into the furnace, and hence the intensity of burning firewood. Door hinges are recommended to be placed on top - under the influence of its gravity, the lid will securely close the combustion chamber window and minimize air suction.

The most difficult thing in preparing the upper, vertical part of the potbelly stove is the process of marking and cutting out a certain shape, which is ideal for putting on and welded to a horizontal body.

In this case, an additional heat exchange chamber is arranged in the vertical part of the furnace, i.e. the smoke, getting into this section, does not immediately go into the chimney, but lingers in the arranged chamber.

To do this, metal plates with holes are welded inside the vertical body at a certain distance, which can vary from 250 to 400 mm. Holes should be cut closer to the edge of the metal round piece. When installing them, the hole on the first jumper must be located on the opposite side from from versions on the second jumper and so on. The best option in this case would be to install three similar jumpers located equidistant from each other.
The vertical assembly with the baffles already mounted is installed and welded from above to the horizontally mounted casing. A pipe for connection is welded onto the upper cylinder.

Video: potbelly stove of two gas cylinders

Potbelly stove from a cylinder installed horizontally

This version of the potbelly stove is made from a single cylinder, and the technology of doing work is in many ways similar to the option described above. Therefore, it is only worth considering difference of some elements.

Instead of a vertical assembly, only a pipe for connecting a chimney pipe is welded in the rear upper part of the cylinder.

A rectangular hole is cut out for the furnace door - it is quite possible to fit it in size to the finished cast-iron door. If it will be purchased in a store, then you should pay attention to the doors designed for blowing holes in brick ovens - sometimes they are ideal for a potbelly stove from a cylinder.

You can make a door cut from a balloon rectangular part. It is well suited for the resulting hole in terms of the size of the sides, but in the middle of it there will be a hole from the valve. It will need to be welded with a patch cut from a metal sheet.
In both the previous and this version, a hob can be added. For this, for example, from a steel bar with a thickness of 5 — 8 mm, a rectangle is bent, which is welded onto the container, creating a small but fairly flat surface.
You can use two steel strips instead of wire, welded on both sides of the cylinder for its entire length.

Potbelly stove from a barrel

A potbelly stove made from a barrel is more voluminous and takes up much more space than a cylinder stove. That is why it is able to heat a room with a larger area. Such a stove can also be horizontal or vertical, but both the first and second options are used to heat not only utility and technical premises, but also housing.

To make this potbelly stove, you will need a metal barrel, a steel sheet and a chimney pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm.

Vertical potbelly stove

The barrel is measured and marked on its surface. locations the doors of the blower and the firebox, as well as the place of the cut. It should pass below the edge of the firebox by 30 ÷ 50mm.
Then the barrel is cut into two parts, and each of them is first worked separately.
A round plate is cut out of a steel sheet, equal in diameter to the size of the barrel. It provides a hole for the passage of the chimney pipe.
A hole is also cut in the top of the barrel so that it can be aligned with the hole on the round piece that will become the hob.
The chimney branch pipe is welded into the hole in the barrel, and then from above, through the hole, a hob is threaded onto the pipe and placed, which is welded to the sides of the barrel. The air space created between them, which is the height of the rim, will help keep the hob hot for a longer time.
Further, a round metal part with holes cut in it - a grate is also welded to the underside of the upper part. Another option is to weld two semicircular brackets under the finished cast-iron grate. The photo clearly shows how these elements look and are located.
When the bottom and top panel of this part of the stove are ready, you can cut a hole for the firebox door according to the markings made earlier.
The cut out part is scalded around with metal strips, hinges and a handle with a vertical latch are fixed to the door.
Next, the hinges for the door and the hook for the valve are welded to the body. This process must be carried out very carefully, accurately calculating the distances for installation, since the door should open and close easily, and the valve should freely enter the holder arranged by the hook.
In the lower part of the barrel, an opening is cut for the ash pan. The door is being prepared and hung - in the same way as in the case of the combustion chamber.
After that, both parts are connected into a single structure by a welded seam.

Horizontal potbelly stove from a barrel

The process of manufacturing a horizontal version of a potbelly stove from a barrel is carried out in almost the same way as from a cylinder.

In the upper plane, a window is marked and cut out, on which a door made from a cut piece of metal will be installed. Connections of the door with hinges and hinges with the body are made with the help of rivets.

The regular pressure relief hole in the barrel, 20 mm in diameter, is used as a blower. There is no separate door for the ash pan provided.
It is recommended to immediately make a stand to accommodate the future stove. It is made from scraps of pipes or a corner, so that the shelves ensure the stability of the barrel laid on them, without backlash.

The next step is the manufacture of a grate from a metal sheet 3-4 mm thick. First, the area is measured and, according to the data obtained, a panel of the required size is cut out, in which holes for air supply are drilled. The finished grate is laid on the bottom of the barrel in such a way that at the highest point, in the center, the distance between the grate and the inner surface of the barrel is about 70 mm. The grate is not fixed rigidly - it should be easily removed to clean the stove from accumulated ash.

A special connecting node is made for the chimney pipe in the rear upper part. After marking the desired diameter with a grinder, diametrical slots are cut at an angle of 15 º from one another - a total of 12 cuts will be obtained. The resulting "teeth" are bent up - the chimney pipe inserted then will be attached to them with rivets.

Video: the simplest horizontal potbelly stove from a barrel

Potbelly stove from rims

A potbelly stove can also be made from two disks from large wheels and a piece of large-diameter pipe - it must be selected for the diameter of the prepared disks. The height of the segment may vary depending on the preferences of the master and the stability of the structure, but are usually limited to 300 - 450 mm.

There is nothing complicated in the scheme and manufacturing process of this version of the potbelly stove, but it is more suitable for technical and utility rooms than for residential ones.

Separate elements of the future stove are being prepared - two disks, a pipe segment, a metal sheet and a chimney pipe.
All three parts are welded together into a single vertical structure. To facilitate the adjustment of the pipe diameter to the discs, it is permissible to cut off the outer edge from the latter along the circumference, on one side.

Further, an opening for the firebox is marked on the pipe and cut out with a grinder.
The cut-out part is scalded around the perimeter, a valve and hinges are installed on it, thereby obtaining the necessary door.
Then, you need to make a hole for the blower, otherwise the fire in the furnace simply will not burn. To do this, a window of 100–120 mm in width and height is cut out in the lower disk.

A hole for the chimney is cut from the back of the upper disk and a pipe is welded into it.
It is recommended to make a hob from a steel sheet with a thickness of 4 — 5 mm. It is tightly welded to the edge of the upper disk, thus becoming an additional heat exchanger.
The same is done with the bottom of the furnace in order to arrange a full-fledged ash pan and increase the safety of operation of the potbelly stove.

In fact, such a potbelly stove is, rather, a fire fenced with metal, and is neither economical nor easy to use. However, for garage needs and subject to free source materials, this is a completely acceptable option.

Video: an example of an effective potbelly stove made of rims

Potbelly stove "Gnome"

One of the most popular of all homemade bourgeois is compact. It looks neat and can be designed for installation in any room. This potbelly stove is well suited in size for small country houses, as it does not take up much space and is an indispensable assistant in cooking and heating rooms.

One of the most common models is the potbelly stove "Gnome"

A similar model of a potbelly stove can be equipped with internal partitions - plates, then it will receive the properties of additional heat transfer, or you can make the most common case with division into a firebox and an ash pan.

The first version of the stove will keep the heat in the room for a long time, and this is very important if summer residents live outside the city from early spring to late autumn, when the nights are cold.

In order to make such a potbelly stove, you need to purchase a steel sheet with a thickness of 3 — 4 mm, flue pipe, angle 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 mm. For the burner, the lid can be made independently or bought ready-made.

Relying on drawing, on metal sheets draw details potbelly stoves: panels all walls, a grate and two plates for fixing them inside the structure.
Rectangular holes are cut in the front panel for the firebox and blower. The cut pieces of metal are used to make doors. They are scalded with a corner and valves and hinged hinges are immediately fixed on them. Then, the doors are attached to the front panel.
On the same panel, only from its inner side at a distance of 150 ÷ 160 mm from the top, one of the plates is welded, which will regulate the output of heated air. The plates must be 80 ÷ 100 mm shorter than the length of the side walls of the housing.
After that, on the back wall, at a distance of 70 — 80 mm from the top, the second plate is welded. In combination, these two plates form a zigzag labyrinth for smoke during the combustion of the furnace. Thanks to this, each of the corners of the potbelly stove body will warm up.
Two holes are cut in the hob - for the burner and for the chimney.
Legs made of thick reinforcement or a corner are welded to the bottom wall of the body. You can choose a frame option from a corner, which includes legs and a base for fixing the bottom and lower edges of the side panels on it.
Before welding the side parts to the frame or to the bottom panel, it is necessary to mark and weld the corners on them for the entire length of the panel, they must be welded at the same level, since their role is to serve as brackets for laying the grate.
In the panel prepared for the grate, holes with a diameter of 12 ÷ 15 mm are drilled in a checkerboard pattern, at a distance of 30 ÷ 40 mm from each other. Another option for a grate can be a grate welded from reinforcing bars. The possibility of purchasing a finished cast-iron grate should not be discounted.
Installation and welding of all walls of the potbelly stove are carried out. The main thing is to achieve complete tightness of the welds, so sometimes it becomes useful to install a 30 × 30 mm metal corner outside. This will slightly make the overall structure heavier, but will give it additional strength and reliability.
The top cover is welded with a chimney pipe and a cooking ring.
To make the stove look respectable, you need to clean all the welds and cover its surface with heat-resistant paint.

It makes sense to additionally install a screen on the side and back surfaces, which will increase the safety of the stove and create a powerful convection flow of hot air, which significantly speeds up the heating of the room. The screen panels are mounted on racks in such a way that they are spaced from the stove body at a distance of 30 to 50 mm.

Video: a master class on making a potbelly stove from a steel sheet

What to consider when installing a potbelly stove

A self-made one will bring warmth and comfort to a house or outbuildings, without causing problems, only if safety regulations are observed during its installation.

The surface on which the oven is to be installed must be rigid and fire resistant. This can be, for example, brickwork or ceramic tiles. You can also use sheet of asbestos the top is covered with a metal sheet.
Around the stove, heat-resistant drywall or asbestos sheets are installed on the walls. Wall cladding with ceramic tiles or bricks is also suitable.
It is forbidden to place combustible materials and compositions near the furnace, not far from the furnace.
The chimney must also be insulated from combustible surfaces when passing through a wall or attic floor.
It is very important for safety to equip a reliable ventilation system so that carbon monoxide cannot accumulate in the room.
In order for the furnace to work for a long time and efficiently, only high-quality material must be chosen for its manufacture.
Before installing the potbelly stove in its permanent place, street tests must be carried out, paying special attention to the quality of welds and the accuracy of fitting all parts.

A potbelly stove is a faithful friend of summer residents, security guards, and lovers of car repairs in their own garage. Owners of small private houses also often use this heating option as the most economical and mobile.

Such a stove is quite capable of heating a small room in a matter of minutes, and thanks to modern design solutions, it will not spoil the interior of a country house at all. To make a potbelly stove with your own hands is within the power of almost everyone who sets himself such a goal. How to do this, we will consider in this article.

Tools for the job

In order for the manufacture of the heater to take you a minimum amount of time, you need to prepare the following tools:

Welding machine (at least 200A)
Electrodes and protective mask for welding
Bulgarian
Cutting and grinding wheels for metal
Slag hammer
Metal brush
Pliers, simple hammer, chisel
Drill with drills
Measuring device (tape measure, meter)

What are homemade potbelly stoves?

The appearance and technical characteristics of the stove-potbelly stove may be different. Each room has its own stove, which can both heat it and harmoniously fit into the interior. As a basis for the future of the stove, you can take sheets of metal or use a finished product: a medium-sized metal pipe, a barrel, a gas cylinder or a tank. In any case, the wall thickness should not be less than 3-5 mm.

If you need to heat the garage, then almost any option will do, since such a stove only requires heating a small room. For a potbelly stove that will be in the house, the aesthetic side is also important - the appearance of the unit, so it is better to immediately refuse some options. The type of fuel used is also important.

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove

This is an option that is just not suitable for heating residential premises. Due to the pungent smell that is released during the combustion of waste oil, it is not very pleasant to stay in such a room for a long time. Even if a good hood works, all things in the house will be saturated with this specific “aroma”. This stove is perfect for heating the garage and other non-residential premises.

To make it, you will need a 4-5 mm metal sheet, which will be cut into pieces, and a chimney pipe. All elements of the stove are cut out with a grinder. The edges of the pieces are cleaned. Before cutting, it is necessary to make the correct marking of all parts, according to the drawing.

Round holes are made in the pipe of the required length. This pipe is designed to connect the upper and lower potbelly potbelly tank. Two round holes must also be drilled in the upper tank: one for the chimney pipe (top left), the second for the connecting pipe (bottom right). The lower tank of the stove is made in the same way, only a cutout for the pipe is made in the center of the tank. For pouring fuel, it is necessary to provide a filler neck, which is equipped with a sliding cover.

The lower part of the tank is made flat, four or three legs are welded onto it. In order for the lower and upper parts not to loosen, they are reinforced with additional stiffening brackets. Welds must be carefully cleaned, and the furnace covered with high-temperature enamel, which will protect the metal from rust.

How does such an oven work?

The potbelly stove produces heat in the following way: a long thin stick or twisted paper sets fire to the used oil in the lower container. When mining caught fire, the filler cap should be closed. Combustion air will flow through a pipe that is connected to the top tank. Rising up, hot air heats the top of the stove to a high temperature. It gets so hot that you can even heat a kettle on it.

Such a stove is ideal for a garage, as it successfully heats a small area, and car owners will always find waste materials for the firebox.

Stove-stove from a pipe or barrel

If you are planning to construct a heater from a pipe or barrel, you need to choose the appropriate diameter. It directly depends on the size of the room that needs to be provided with heat.

A potbelly stove from a barrel can also be used in a residential area, provided that it is made neatly and correctly. This type is most popular for heating country houses.

Two rectangular holes are cut in the barrel, which will be connected to the firebox and ash pan. Cut pieces are used for doors. They are cut to the desired size, framed with strips of metal and attached to such impromptu doors with handles and a valve.

Inside the barrel (pipe), two brackets are welded in the form of a corner. These are holders for the grate, which are located just below the doors. As a grate, you can use welded fittings or buy ready-made in the store.

A piece of pipe is welded tightly, and supports are welded to its lower part. A hole for the chimney is cut out from the top of the pipe, into which the pipe is inserted and welded.

Only after that the doors are installed. They are attached to the door hinges and a hook for the latch is installed, having previously measured the desired level.

To give the stove aesthetics, it is necessary to clean the welding seams well and paint the product with heat-resistant enamel. If everything is done carefully, such a heater will look no worse than the factory counterpart. After the paint has dried, the stove is connected to a chimney pipe that enters the street.

This is the easiest and most practical option. Despite the fact that such a potbelly stove takes up quite a lot of space, it is used for heating more often than other models. It is also very convenient that on the surface of the tank you can heat water in a kettle or a saucepan, as well as dry clothes.

Potbelly stove from a gas cylinder

The used gas cylinder is very well suited for the stove. This is an almost ready-made form for a potbelly stove, which requires minimal modifications.

The upper part of the cylinder, where the valve is located, is cut off, and a plug is welded in its place. A square cut is made in the bottom of the cylinder - this will be the firebox. The cut piece must be turned into firebox doors. To do this, it is scalded with metal and a handle is attached to it for opening. Subsequently, you will need to weld metal hinges to the hole, on which the door will be put on. It is better to install the door leaf itself at the very end, when the potbelly stove is already completely ready.

In order for air to enter the furnace, several holes are drilled in the bottom of the cylinder. They will give traction and serve as grates. In order to prevent burnt firewood from falling to the floor, a metal box is welded to the bottom of the cylinder - an ash pan. It can be made from thinner sheet metal. The ash pan is also equipped with doors.

After that, legs from a metal corner or pipe scraps are attached to the cylinder.
At the back of the stove there will be a smoke exhaust pipe. To do this, it is necessary to cut a round hole in the upper part, coinciding with the diameter of the pipe, and weld it there.
From above, you can equip an improvised stove for cooking. It can be made from a metal grid or reinforcement by welding a frame to the top of the cylinder.

Such a potbelly stove is a great option for heating a summer house, garage or change house. It is versatile and does not take up much space in the room.

Potbelly stove rectangular

Of all the possible options, such a stove is the most compact and neat look. It is used in residential areas, where, thanks to its rectangular shape, it is easy to decorate the stove and make it almost invisible.

The most popular factory model "Gnome". Its structure is quite simple, and heat transfer is very efficient.

This stove consists of only a few elements: a swamp, an ash pan and a chimney. The stove is mounted on four legs. The second figure shows a more complex firebox design that retains heat for a long time.

It is quite possible to build such a structure yourself. Let's take a closer look at how to do this.

To do this, you will need the following consumables: a sheet of metal, at least 4 mm thick, a chimney pipe and a steel corner. In addition, you need to purchase a cover for the burner.

It is necessary to cut four walls, a bottom and an upper hob. In order for the fuel to burn completely in the furnace, it is necessary to use special plates that are located inside the stove. Thus, more heat will be produced in the combustion chamber.

Holes for the firebox and blower are cut in the front of the structure. Subsequently, hinged doors with handles and locks will be attached to them.
An opening for the burner is cut from above, corresponding to the size of the part, and a hole for the pipe through which the smoke will come out.

Legs from a prepared corner are welded to the bottom of the stove.
The place where the grate will lie is marked on the side panels. Sections from the corners are welded here, which will serve as supports for the grate. The grate can be made independently. To do this, it is necessary to drill a large number of holes in the steel sheet so that it becomes like a sieve, or to weld a lattice of steel bars.

At a short distance (at least 15 cm) from the hob in the upper part of the potbelly stove, a plate is welded. It should correspond to the size of the stove, but not reach its end 8-9 cm. The second same plate is placed a little lower. It should also not reach the end of the container, only in its front part. These plates form additional ribbon-like passages inside the stove. The heat from the burning fuel will enter the formed corridor and heat the plate. Thus, more heat will remain inside the tank, and not fly straight into the pipe.

Rules for safe use of a potbelly stove

Fire safety rules are very important when using a homemade heater. In order for the potbelly stove to bring warmth and comfort to the room and not pose a threat to health, you must remember the following safety measures.

It is necessary to place the stove on a refractory base. It can be tile, metal sheet or brickwork. Walls near the stove must also be protected from overheating. You can paste over them with refractory material or use non-combustible drywall. In no case should you place furniture or any other combustible objects near the stove.

The slightest spark or too high surface temperature of the potbelly stove can cause a fire.

In order to exclude the possibility of accumulation of combustion products in the room, use ventilation. Think in advance where your potbelly stove will be located, and how you can ensure the inflow of fresh air into the room and the outflow of carbon monoxide from it.

Install the stove in a place where there is less traffic of people, do not allow children to arrange games near the appliance. By following these simple rules, you will provide yourself with inexpensive heat in the cold season.