Types of brick barbecues. DIY brick barbecue oven - it's easy! Selection of material and necessary tools

It's good if personal plot There is a metal barbecue, but not only practicality is important for a person, they also want beauty. Functional and attractive appearance- This is a brick barbecue. There are both simple models, the manufacture of which does not require special skills, and there are very complex structures - real brick complexes that only a professional can make. It is better not to take on the construction of such structures without experience, but anyone can try to build a simple brick grill or barbecue oven.

What is the difference between a grill, a fireplace, an oven and a barbecue?

Fireplaces, stoves and barbecues have a brick wall on the back of the brazier, which the grill does not have. It is necessary to retain heat and to reflect it onto frying food.

The design of a fireplace, stove and barbecue provides for the construction of a chimney, which allows heated air and smoke to be vented away from the cook; the grill does not have this element.

In fireplaces and stoves, the heat is located in the firebox; in the grill device there is a metal tray for this purpose.

The heat of a grill, fireplace and barbecue is retained only while the fuel is burning, and the stove can remain warm for a long time.

Barbecues and ovens combine the function heating device with cooking, the grill is needed only for cooking, and the fireplace is exclusively a heating device.

What tools and materials will be needed to build a brick barbecue:

Preparing the mixture for masonry

For brick construction, you need to choose high-quality mortars. You can use 2 options for such solutions:

ready-made compositions (separate mixtures for walls and fireboxes);
clay mixed with clean sand.

Such compositions have their own disadvantages and advantages; they need to be understood in detail. Previously, only clay was used in the construction of furnaces, but it has a serious drawback. Heating structures, folded on a clay mortar, must be well protected from moisture. It cannot be used for laying bricks on a pipe; in such places, mixtures based on cement or lime are used. IN recent years Fire-resistant compounds have become available and are sold dry in hardware stores. They go to work after diluting with water.

Clay is the cheapest binder that is completely environmentally safe.

For masonry, you must choose dark red clay. The quality of raw materials and the finished mixture is checked as follows:

You need to take 500 gr. clay, stir it with 200 ml of water so that it does not stick to your hands.
A lump is made from this mass and thrown onto the floor or against the wall; if cracks appear on the lump, the clay is too greasy; if the lump immediately crumbles, there is too much sand in the solution; a good clay mixture for laying a stove should look like plasticine.
Laying 1000 bricks will require approximately 50-70 liters of mixture. To increase the strength of the mixture, add 0.5 cups of table salt to each bucket of clay. To increase the strength of the masonry, in weakly heated areas of the structure, it is permissible to add no more than 500 grams of cement to the mixture. on a bucket of clay.
The resulting mixture should look like thick homemade sour cream.
Often when building brick heating devices Various dry mixtures are used. Methods for their preparation and use are always indicated in the instructions.

Don’t forget that they sell formulations that are designed for different oven heating temperatures. There are mixtures intended only for laying fireboxes, and there are simple compositions for constructing the walls of a fireplace or stove.

How many bricks do you need?

Before building a brick barbecue with your own hands, you need to calculate how much it will be needed. There are many programs designed for such calculations. You can roughly calculate the need using a pre-prepared barbecue drawing. Dimensions of standard brick:

length – 25 cm;
width – 12 cm;
height – 6.5 cm, together with the solution the height reaches 7 cm.

Taking into account the design and size of the brick, a calculation is made. Instead of brick chimney You can install a tin pipe. Before work, focusing on drawings and photographs of a brick barbecue, be sure to prepare layer-by-layer sketches of the masonry. In the figure there are 28 layers of brick, 18 rows of which are the distance to the pipe and 10 rows to the lattice of the structure. Make 18 drawings and schematically mark the sequence of brick laying on them. Do not forget that the bottom brick should always be overlapped with 2 bricks on top. Also, a brick lying longitudinally must be overlapped on top by 2 transverse bricks. You can see the finished oven in the photo of a brick barbecue.

Need to pick up convenient place to build a barbecue, you need to consider:

the barbecue should be located no closer than 5 meters from the neighboring plot (better further);
the structure is built at the maximum distance from wooden buildings;
there should be no bushes or trees on the lawn near the barbecue;
it is necessary to be able to supply lighting and water to the barbecue;
It should be possible to build a canopy or gazebo.

Foundation structure

You immediately need to make markings for the foundation of the barbecue at the selected location; its dimensions must correspond to the order of the brick barbecue and take into account the masonry drawings. In addition, the dimensions depend on the layout of the site - whether there will be a gazebo being built nearby or whether a foundation needs to be made just to build a barbecue. It is best to use a slab base:

Using pre-established markers, a pit is dug 40-50 cm deep.
Fill it with a mixture of gravel and coarse sand to the soil level, compact it and install formwork 150 mm high on top.
IN assembled structure assemble the reinforcement frame.
A concrete solution is poured into the formwork and compacted well so that there is no air left in the body of the foundation.
Use a level to check the level of the site.
After this, everything is covered with damp burlap in order to increase the drying time and prevent cracking of the concrete.

The foundation will be completely ready in three days, then the formwork can be removed.

Construction of barbecue walls

To protect the foundation and bricks from moisture penetrating from the ground, the foundation walls must be treated with tar, and 2-3 layers of roofing material are laid on top of it. Mix the masonry mortar (recipe listed above). The first row of bricks is laid on roofing felt laid on the foundation. On rows 7 and 10, metal plates are inserted into the masonry. The sheets of metal should be narrower than the oven by ½ the length of the brick.

When laying bricks, be sure to take long breaks, which are necessary for the mortar to set, otherwise the tall structure may crawl.

Fresh mortar sags, the seams between the rows of bricks dry out and become smaller, for this reason deviations from the project are possible. It takes 2-3 days for the walls to shrink; this is affected by the ambient temperature. Self-construction allows for breaks in work - this is a significant advantage over using hired builders who try to completely complete the project as quickly as possible.

Using a saw or grinder, cut off 1/2 half of the brick so that a sheet of metal can be placed in the groove made. We raise the walls further, laying bricks according to the drawings. On the 15th row, it is necessary to lay out the arch; for this, semicircular wooden templates are used. A pattern of the required curvature is made from plywood, a cutting line is marked along it with a pencil and cut out with a jigsaw. Prepare the second board in the same way. To strengthen the vault template, another board is inserted between the boards and everything is connected. The ready-made template can be used. It is placed between the walls of the firebox, and the laying of bricks begins, connecting them with mortar.

The middle brick of the vault should be located exactly in the center of the firebox opening.

For laying the firebox and barbecue pipe, it is necessary to use heat-resistant bricks.

The pipe begins to be laid from the 18th row; to reduce the width of the hole in each row of masonry, ¼ of the width of the brick is removed. Thus, 28 rows of masonry are laid out. Instead of a brick vault, you can prepare a metal box and install it into the masonry.

What you need to pay attention to:

You cannot break the rules when using a barbecue on your property. fire safety, otherwise your vacation may be ruined.
Do not light a barbecue with gasoline or kerosene; use special compounds for this purpose;
You should not soak coals or firewood with ignition compounds; they should only be sprinkled on top of the kindling;
Do not forget that high-quality fuel is good rest and delicious food. For this reason, worry about dry firewood in advance. Experts advise using birch coals, which make food aromatic and tasty.

Barbecue made of white clinker bricks - video

Step-by-step instructions for building a brick barbecue

Included compact corner barbecues may include barbecues for preparing the main dish, firewood sheds for storing lumber near the firebox, storage space for dishes - glasses, cups, salad bowls, a cauldron oven for preparing aromatic fish soup.

In addition, a corner barbecue project may include washing for quick cleaning of the consequences of rest and electric spit for roasting delicious piglets with a crispy skin.

The masonry of a corner stove is usually made of stone or brick. When choosing a finish, your imagination is not limited - it can be marble, decorative brick, tile.

If the owners of the future barbecue have a large budget for creating an oven, it can be equipped electric stove built into the countertop, additional pipes, glass doors on the grill and other interesting accessories.

Do-it-yourself corner barbecues: advantages and features

The main advantage because of which site owners prefer a corner barbecue is its compactness. All components of the structure will be within walking distance, which will reduce cooking time, but will not reduce the pleasure of it. Other benefits include:

set of projects with great design in style country And classics;
the shape allows you to build a firewood shed directly next to the firebox.

But brick corner barbecues also have several disadvantages:

necessity thermal insulation 2 walls, which increases construction costs;
more complex installation of the structure.

Photo 1. A cook is busy near a brick barbecue oven, preparing a dish for two ladies anticipating a treat. For decades now, brick corner barbecue projects have become the choice for hospitable owners of country houses.

When you choose brick corner barbecue designs, pay attention special attention on the ease of performing each element. If you need to hire specialists for the firebox or another part of the furnace, it is better to choose a simpler project. The main difference between stoves is their functionality - choose the ones that fully suit your needs.

Construction of a corner barbecue using the example of a specific project

Before starting to build the stove, you need to choose the ideal location, project with a detailed and clear drawing, purchase the necessary materials, consider the quantity and ways of implementing additional options.

Project selection

Unfortunately, experienced stove makers do not use orders in their work, so online finished projects Brick corner barbecues are few in number. And yet, if you are planning to build a corner barbecue made of brick, drawings and photographs of existing similar structures can be of great help in creating own idea. Particularly good are drawings that indicate detailed brick laying pattern: When you first build a corner barbecue, ordering helps you get the job done quickly and without the fear of doing something wrong.

Price for individual project may be up to 50 thousand rubles, depending on the design.

Photo 2. Computer model barbecue ovens for a covered gazebo. Although there are few projects for corner barbecues made of brick on the Internet, it is quite possible to develop such a simple design for a future structure yourself.

The main difference between corner barbecues is in the angle of the grill in relation to the countertop and stove. There are projects consisting of a table top and a barbecue, there are more functional options. We will consider the construction of a corner barbecue using an example garden project "Grand Corner"- with hearth, grill and chimney.

Selection of bricks for construction and finishing materials

There are no problems with choosing a brick, since for the construction of a corner barbecue it is permissible to use only red burnt brick. It fits on clay-sand mortar, as in any option for constructing a furnace.

Attention! If you don't buy mortar clay from a hardware store or base, you should have it checked. This test takes 2-3 days, and the purchased clay can be used to create a solution immediately after purchase.

To test ordinary clay, use a solution with it on 2 bricks. If, after drying for a day, they are held together enough that they can be lifted by one brick, then the solution is diluted in the correct ratio.

To improve the appearance of the barbecue and create coziness on the site, after construction the structure is lined finishing brick or plastered with clay. The seams on the front side of the grill are carefully unstitched.

Estimate of materials for purchase

Calculation of the required number of bricks for the construction of the selected masonry option (in rows):

34.5+35.5+11+9+13+25+21+18+16+21+21.5+15+13.5+10.5+10.5+10.5+10+18+ 19+14.5+16.5+17.5+24+26+28.5+21+19+14+16+17 = 546.5 pcs.

This is about brick. But what building materials Will you need more to build a corner barbecue? We list them, indicating the approximate volume required to implement the selected project:

Red burnt brick 1st grade - 546.5 pcs;
Cement - 150 kg;
Sand - 50 kg;
Water - 17 l;
Crushed stone - 50 kg;
Fire door - 1 pc.
Blower door - 1 pc.;
Steel sheet 5 mm - 2 pcs.;
Corner for jumpers - 2 pcs.;
Rod 230 mm - 5 pcs.

Also check if you have the following tools:

shovel;
trowel.

Construction of the foundation

The design of a corner barbecue includes 2-3 parts: firebox And slabs. If the barbecue consists of 3 parts, then 2 parts are placed hobs .

Instructions for building a foundation:

the boundaries of the future structure are marked;
being dug up the trench is 5-8 cm wider than the boundaries of the barbecue, the depth is calculated based on the composition of the soil (usually they dig to sand or 90 cm and pour layer of sand 20-25 cm);
the bottom is covered with crushed stone or fragments of old brick;
done cement screed from water, cement and sand in the ratio 0,5:0,5:1,5 (the solution should be thin enough to fill all the cracks between the crushed stone);
leave for a day to dry;
the surface is leveled, several layers of roofing felt or roofing felt are laid on top to ensure the waterproofness of the foundation.

Brick laying process

Before starting to build the main part of the stove, you need to soak the bricks in water and lay them wet.

The first row is laid with whole bricks on edge and without mortar.

The second row is made of half a brick; the grill will not serve as a heater.

The next row will include gap up to 2 bricks wide For free access oxygen to the firebox through the flood chamber.

Next, after 2-3 rows a hole is made for the convenience of the firebox, the size of which is determined based on personal preference. To avoid problems with cleaning in the future, the hole is made with minimum height 3 bricks and similar width.

The inside of the roasting pan is laid out without channels, using the usual method. It should be provided grate for collecting hot coals, for which they are installed vertically inside the firebox 2 bricks each.

The height of the corner barbecue depends on the height of the person who will cook the food, the size of the gazebo or summer kitchen, if it is decided to build the stove there. Usually this 2—2.5 m, along with the pipe. Hob located at a height of 1.0–1.2 m.

For masonry facing bricks The solution used to fill the foundation is used. You can plaster a corner barbecue using clay mortar and bleaching emulsion.

Additional attributes to increase the comfort of using a corner barbecue

Lighting and electricity, as well as other additional attributes are installed after the finishing layer has completely dried. Otherwise, you may accidentally damage structural elements, ruining its appearance.

To quickly and cheaply supply electricity to a gazebo or under a canopy, you need to follow these steps:

is created wiring diagram- how exactly it will lie on the walls;
are being done marks in the places where the wires are placed using a marker;
asbestos sheet cut into strips so that they protrude from the cable at least 50 mm;
the strips are attached to the canopy or walls of the gazebo, electrical insulating cardboard is placed between the cables;

Attention! When securing the wiring with asbestos sheets, you need to make sure that the cable does not dangle, but is not pressed down either. It is forbidden to drive a nail in the middle of the conductors - this increases the danger of the wiring and accelerates the destruction of the gazebo.

after connecting the wiring to the outlet and the switch, the electrical network elements are installed according to the manufacturers’ instructions;
the other end of the wire is connected to the protection and the cable is connected to the network.

The electricity supply is complete, now you can choose lighting fixtures or connect the electric stove built into the countertop. It is advisable to use the knowledge you have just acquired about electrical wiring to supervise the actions of an experienced electrician.

Attention! You should not agree to hidden wiring - it will cost more in terms of time and material costs, and will not particularly affect the appearance.

An ideal place on the site for the construction of a corner barbecue made of bricks

It is best to complement a summer kitchen or gazebo corner barbecue oven- this way the cooking area will be protected from gusts of wind and unexpected precipitation. But it is not necessary to build an additional building - you can arrange a site for installing a barbecue under open air. Her minimum size— 2*3 m.

Each plot has a place where the owners take a break from various activities. This territory is divided into relaxation area with a table, benches, a swing or a hammock, and a work area in which delicious food will be prepared. A corner barbecue oven is most often placed in this part.

It is advisable to supplement such a recreation area washbasin And gazebo.

Corner barbecue will become the best option for a small area, in one of the corners of which the foundation of the future furnace is poured.

Thanks to the chosen scheme, you can save a seating area or increase the space for installing additional attributes.

A beautiful addition to the corner barbecue stove will be a display working area paving slabs and creating a path to this area from paving stones or stone. Remember, if this is not done, in the summer a path will still appear in its potential place, but from trampled grass.

It is advisable to purchase beautiful street lights for a comfortable rest in the evening and at night.

Country holidays on Sundays in in most cases associated with cooking delicious meat, fish and vegetable dishes on hot coals. Of course, you can always a quick fix organize a small barbecue, even by simply digging a hole in the ground and coming up with some crossbars for a net or skewers. But, you must admit, the products will be prepared of much higher quality and tastier, with less fuel consumption, if special structures are used - barbecue, grill or barbecue.

In general, it would probably be a sin for owners of suburban areas not to have such devices, stationary or portable, at their disposal. There is enough stock in stores wide choice such devices welded from metal. However, if the owner of the site has at least basic skills in carrying out construction work or in processing and welding metal, it probably won’t be a particularly big problem for him to build a barbecue with his own hands, of varying degrees of complexity.

What is hidden under the word "barbecue"?

First of all, we need to figure out what we should get if the goal is to create a barbecue.

The etymology of this name is not entirely clear - there are several versions of its origin. The most plausible option seems to be one that connects him Withancient Greek, and then the Latin word “barbarus”, which meant newcomer, foreigner, alien to culture. In our language, the word gradually transformed into “barbarian”.

Perhaps the word “barbecue” comes from the “barbaric” cooking of food in hearths and fires

Perhaps the method of cooking of these semi-wild nomadic tribes - barbarians - on open fires or in stone cave hearths formed the basis of the established name. But, you must admit that we all really, really like this “barbaric” method!

Have you decided to build a barbecue oven?

But before moving on to the article about barbecue, be sure to read how to lay a brick -.

Besides this great solution is tandoor! You can also read about DIY projects on our portal.

But the question immediately arises - there are many recipes for cooking on the grill, on the grill or using barbecue culinary technology. What is the difference, what is the subtlety that distinguishes one from the other?

By and large, the difference is small, but it still exists.

An ordinary barbecue, as a rule, is some kind of metal or brick container for coals (box, box, etc.), on top of which skewers are placed or a grate is installed on which food is laid out. The installation height is not adjustable in any way - the supply is always the top edge of the barbecue itself. From above, the prepared products are freely blown with air, for which no barriers are created. There are holes in the box itself to blow in the air necessary for burning wood and subsequent smoldering of coals. In principle, no additional draft is created in the barbecue - only heat transmitted by direct thermal radiation is involved in the cooking process, which immediately dissipates above the level of the skewers or grate.

The simplest in the “family” is a regular grill

This, as you can see, is the simplest of the listed devices. Cooking meat on it requires some skill, since the heat comes only from below, and it is important not to overcook or overdry the side of the food facing the fire.

Grilling also involves cooking over coals, but the principle here is different - the closed volume in which the process takes place is important. Meat products can also be skewered or laid out to the gridoveron the smoldering coals took on the heat, but then the grill must be closed with a lid.

Hot air in a closed volume is distributed more evenly, and the frying process occurs simultaneously on all sides. Of course, combustion requires channels for air intake and smoke outlets, so grills are often supplemented with a small pipe.

But the barbecue roaster occupies an intermediate position between a regular barbecue and a grill, and is closest to the “cave”, “barbaric” conditions for cooking meat. It resembles a hearth with one open front side.

For a barbecue you need a fireplace that is closed on three sides...

Another option is when there is always a side around the barbecue grill, a wall that does not allow the heat to immediately disperse to the sides from the slightest breeze.

...or the grate is surrounded by a side wall that retains the heat at a certain height from the products being fried

The walls of this side or hearth also heat up and participate in the cooking process. It turns out to be a kind of thermal cushion that envelops the product from the bottom and from the edges, and in the case of a hearth type of barbecue, also to some extent from above. It is clear that in such conditions the meat cooks faster, and there is much less risk of drying it out or even burning one of the sides than on the grill. As a rule, on all barbecues one or another possibility of adjusting the height of the grate above the coals is thought out.

Artificial draft is not created in a barbecue - the slower it moves hot air- so much the better. In a hearth-type barbecue, of course, you cannot do without organizing smoke removal, but the pipe should not be high - usually from the level of the fryer to the top tip - no more than one and a half meters.

Honestly, all three of these culinary devices are so “related” to each other that very often they can easily and simply transform into one another. For example, a grate installed or suspended below the level of the walls of the barbecue immediately transforms it into a barbecue. And if you close the lid on the barbecue or close the hearth door, then, accordingly, you can cook according to grill technology.

Perhaps the reader will object to such a gradation of devices for cooking on open fire and coals, since there are a lot of different opinions expressed on this matter on the Internet. However, later in the article we will consider those options for manufacturing or constructing a barbecue roaster that meet the criteria described above.

Forester BBQ prices

BBQ Forester

Options will be considered in sequence from simple to complex, from temporary to portable braziers, and then to stationary complexes.

The simplest barbecue roaster in ten minutes

This option is available to literally everyone, even people completely incompetent construction skills. The method of constructing such a barbecue grill itself is in many ways reminiscent of a child's game of blocks.

To work you will need:

— About a hundred bricks (item 1). Their number may be smaller - it all depends on the height of the future “structure”.

— Metal sheet (item 2) and grille (item 3). The size of these elements should be approximately equal. In fact, their length and width will determine the size of the fryer.

The laying will be carried out “dry”, that is, no mortar won't be needed.

For the construction it is necessary to prepare a flat and solid site so that it is fireproof. For example, it is quite possible to place the roasting pan on a compacted soil area that has been cleared of dry grass.
On the finished site, a circle is laid out from bricks laid flat, leaving gaps between them of about 50 mm for the free passage of air from below. It’s worth immediately comparing the diameter of the laid out circle with the dimensions of the sheet and lattice - these metal elements should completely cover it in the resulting “well”. In the diagram shown, 12 bricks are used in laying one row.
In the same way, four more rows are carefully laid, each with an offset, so that the masonry is “in a dressing”.
A metal sheet is laid on top of the fifth row. Its thickness should be at least 2 ÷ 3 mm, since it is on it that the fire will be lit, the wood will burn and the coals will smolder.
The next two rows of bricks will create a kind of hearth. The principle of masonry here remains the same as from below, but there is one peculiarity - one brick from the bottom and, accordingly, two in the second row (item 4) are not shown on the front side. This opening will become a combustion window through which wood will be loaded and ignited and coals will be turned.
The next step is to place a metal grate on the brick “well”, on which the fried products will be placed.
Two more rows of bricks are laid on top of the lattice. At the same time, there should be no gaps between them - a continuous edge must be formed around the roasting pan in order for the “barbecue principle” to be implemented. It is also permissible to leave a small opening in the front part for ease of manipulation with a spatula or tongs when turning the fried products.

A similar roasting pan can be left on the site on summer period, but if there are fears that bricks and metal parts may simply be “taken away” in the absence of the owners, then not difficult at all disassemble it to cover the materials in the utility room. If necessary, building a barbecue again will not cost a ton and will not take much time.

Metal barbecue grills made from scrap materials

If the owner of the house has good skills in metal processing and welding, then a portable barbecue model can be a very good option. The task will be further simplified if there are old unnecessary metal barrels or gas cylinders.

In principle, you can even do without welding - this is the option that will be discussed. The pictures in the left column of the table can be viewed in more detail by enlarging them with a mouse click.

Image	Description
	Take an ordinary standard metal barrel in good condition. It is important that flammable products (for example, gasoline) are not stored in it beforehand. External markings are immediately made on the barrel - two parallel lines between the bottom and the lid. The area to be cut should be approximately ⅓ of the surface. The figure shows markings made with two strips of electrical tape (blue arrows). Pay attention to the location of the filler neck of the barrel - almost at the level of the far marking line, with a slight shift back (red arrow). This is important as the neck will then be used for the chimney.
	The transverse cutting lines are marked approximately 50 mm from the flanging joints of the lid and bottom, and must run strictly parallel to them. Then, using a grinder, the intended window is cut out. It is very important to make the cuts as evenly and accurately as possible, since the cut out fragment will be used as a lid, and the gaps when closing it will have to remain minimal.
	Further work will be easier if you immediately build a stand for the future barbecue. There can be a lot of options here, but as an example we can give a simple design that does not require welded joints. The diagram is shown in the figure. You will need pieces of pipe Ø 40 mm - 4 pieces with a length of 750 ÷ 800 mm (this height will ensure the most comfortable use of the fryer), and 2 pieces with a length equal to the length of the barrel placed on the horizontal surface with the addition of another 150 mm for the top fastening units. The legs are connected to the crossbars with bolts, for which holes are drilled in the pipes (shown by the arrow)
	Now it’s time to make jumpers that will add rigidity to the structure of the stand. It would be cheaper and easier to make them wooden, or more precisely, plywood with a thickness of at least 10 mm. To do this, two strips 700 mm long and two 900 mm long are cut out, with a total width of 150 mm. In two of them, using a core drill, holes Ø 42 ÷ 45 mm are selected, equidistant from the center and the distance between the intended centers of the holes is 500 mm. In the other two, the holes are the same, but the distance between their centers is increased to 750 mm. This will give the legs a slight inclination, which will increase the strength of the structure. The first pair of plywood blanks is put on the pipe legs of both metal halves of the frame (blue arrow). For greater rigidity, the jumpers are connected to each other using self-tapping screws with a crossbar, also made from strips of plywood (red arrow). By the way, this jumper can be made wide - then it will also serve as a fairly convenient utility shelf.
	Now - how to fix this wooden spacer and lintel at the desired height? The easiest way is to attach ordinary clamps to each of the legs - they will not allow the plywood parts to fall down. It is important to place this unit no closer than 400mm from the top rails to wooden parts did not get burned from the heat when using the barbecue. Such fixation with clamps will allow, if necessary, to quickly disassemble the entire structure by simply loosening the nuts and removing the parts from the legs. The lower jumpers are installed in a similar way, in which the holes are spaced slightly wider. The height of their location is 100 ÷ 150 mm from ground level. There is no need to connect them with a cross member.
	That's it, the barbecue stand is ready. You can place the barrel on top and continue working. The barrel cylinder is securely placed between the metal crossbars (blue arrow), and its ends rest against the connecting nodes (red arrow), which prevents its movement in any direction. Under the weight of the barrel, the entire structure of the stand, located at a slight slope, will finally wedge inward and will be motionless.
	We continue to work on the barrel itself. The main tools are a drill, a screwdriver, wrenches, since all connections will be threaded. It is undesirable to use aluminum rivets, since the thermal resistance of this metal is low. First of all, brackets are installed on which the frying grid will be laid out. These are ordinary steel corners, bolted just below the level of the cut opening on one side - and horizontally to them - on the opposite side. Placement of corners - depending on the size and rigidity of the existing grille, so as to ensure its reliable installation with support at least on all four corners, and if necessary, with additional corners to avoid deflection.
	Most often, a collapsible grate of two halves is used - it is easier to install it in the cavity of the barrel. The figure shows just such an option. Arrows indicate installed brackets.
	It's time to tackle the hinged lid. On the back, high part of the opening, ordinary steel window hinges (non-removable) are attached to screws.
	The second half of the loops is screwed to the fragment cut out earlier from the barrel. It is necessary to very accurately measure the location of the hinges so that the resulting lid fits exactly to the size of the window and closes it as tightly as possible in the lower position.
	Now the chimney is next (red arrows). The plug in the drain neck is removed, and a threaded coupling of the appropriate diameter is screwed in instead. so as to form a protruding threaded pipe (item 1). A 90° bend (item 2) is screwed onto it, to which you can then connect a low pipe, placing it in such a way that the exhaust smoke does not become an obstacle for the person preparing food. At the bottom of the end of the barrel, it is additionally fashionable to make an adjustable blower (blue arrows). To do this, several holes Ø 10 ÷ 12 mm are drilled (item 3), and a damper is placed higher on the axle bolt, which can be used to regulate the flow of air into the firebox. This can be especially important when cooking in grill mode, since if the lid of the frying pan is closed, combustion without oxygen may simply stop.
	The final touches remain. The chimney pipe is being installed (blue arrow). There must be a handle that will open the lid of the barbecue. It is advisable to make it from a material that will not heat up too much. The options may be different, for example, as shown in the figure (orange arrow). If you wish, after preliminary cleaning you can coat the top of the barrel with special heat-resistant paint. The master who made the barbecue about which the story was told additionally attached a thermometer (red arrow) to the surface of the lid, which allows you to monitor the temperature during the cooking process in the “grill” mode. Essentially, the barbecue assembly is complete.

Similar or to a certain extent modified, according to the wishes and imagination of the master, barbecues can be made from their old ones gas cylinders. (At the same time, care must be taken when cutting the container for the first time, since there may be an explosive residual concentration of gas inside. It is recommended to rinse the container several times with water, and make the first cut also in a water-filled state).

A creative approach makes it possible to significantly expand the functionality of the manufactured structure. For example, it is easy to provide an additional “option” for the smokehouse by installing an additional chamber at the smoke outlet from the main roaster. Another option is to install a separate combustion chamber below, which will be used specifically in the smoking mode of products. And to maintain the required temperature and smoke concentration required for smoking, an adjustable damper is installed on the chimney. A good example such a model of barbecue grill with the ability to switch to smoking mode is shown in the attached video.

Video: an interesting model of a barbecue grill with a smoker

If the structure turns out to be heavy, then it can be equipped, for example, with a single-axle wheel drive. This will allow you to easily move it around the site or put it in a barn or garage when it is not in demand.

Stationary brick barbecues

Those owners of country mansions who they love solidity and solidity, they will probably prefer something more monumental, stationary, built of brick for years. Well, in this matter, there is nothing impossible for the independent construction of a barbecue grill or even a whole complex or, in other words, a barbecue area.

Choosing the optimal location for a barbecue complex

First of all, you need to decide on a location. A number of rules are taken into account:

Very often, brick barbecues are installed next to an existing recreation area - a terrace or gazebo. It is quite possible to combine these buildings under one roof, naturally taking into account fire safety requirements.
You should not locate the complex too close to a residential building or even attach it to it - this is also dictated by basic safety rules. It is strictly forbidden to place it near garages or utility rooms where there may be a supply of fuel.
For reasons of hygiene and comfort, the barbecue oven should not be planned in close proximity to common places or cesspools, your own or a neighbor’s.
If possible, you should give preference to a location located on the leeward side of a residential building (taking into account the prevailing winds in the area).
You should avoid proximity to tall bushes and trees, the crowns of which may be above the barbecue. This is, firstly, unsafe, and secondly, plants can wither and die from high temperatures.
If the construction of a barbecue is planned in a previously built gazebo, then the placement of the stove should be provided so that the chimney pipe does not fall on roof rafters– it should be approximately in the center between them.

A good owner will definitely provide for the laying of paths to the barbecue area so that it can be easily approached, for example, after rain. For the same reasons, it is advisable to pave the area near the stove itself.
It will be very convenient if water is supplied to the barbecue area, at least through a temporary summer main. It is also never a bad idea to install a power supply line - this will make it possible to organize lighting and connect the necessary household appliances. Of course, both running water and electricity are optional elements, only at the request and opportunity of the owners.
And finally, the barbecue should be positioned and finished so that this structure fits organically into the general concept site design.

Once the location has been chosen, construction begins. And it always begins with the construction of the foundation.

Foundation for a brick barbecue oven

Prices for GREIVARI barbecue

BBQ GREIVARI

Any brick stationary structure always has considerable mass, which means it requires a reliable foundation. In the case of building a garden barbecue stove, you can use both strip and slab, monolithic foundation, but the second one is still preferable. It is recommended to pave the area around, one way or another, and this will already be the basis for, for example, laying ceramic tiles. In addition, a monolithic foundation, even with a slight depth, will be a stable foundation for the structure being built.

A pit is dug under the foundation in such a way that the resulting slab is at least 100 mm wider in any direction than the planned perimeter brickwork. On the front side the protrusion can be made larger to form a small platform. The depth of the pit can be about 400 mm - this will be quite enough.
The bottom of the pit is filled up sand cushion 100 mm, which must be compacted with a manual tamper. On top of it, also with compaction, the same layer of gravel or crushed stone is poured. As a result, the underground poured part of the foundation will be about 250 mm thick.
Along the perimeter of the pit is installed wooden formwork. It should extend approximately 100 mm above the ground surface - this will form the base part of the slab. It is advisable to strictly align the formwork horizontally - then the top edge of the boards will become a beacon for leveling the mortar.
Reinforcing mesh with cells 100 × 100 mm is laid. It is better to install it on pads so that it falls approximately in the middle of the slab being poured.
A cement-sand mortar (1:3) is prepared, which is poured into the formwork until it is completely filled. The top is leveled by the rule.

Now all that remains is to wait for the slab to harden and gain the necessary strength. The first 3 are recommended — Regularly moisten the surface for 4 days and protect it from drying out and cracking, covering it with plastic wrap. The formwork can be removed in a week, and then we can proceed to further construction work gelatinous earlier than 3 weeks - by this time the concrete should gain about 70% of the strength necessary to withstand the increasing load of brick walls.

On the finished foundation you can build the chosen one. We will not consider overly complex complexes. For a novice builder, one of the fairly simple models, which, nevertheless, have good functionality, will be enough.

A simple option without a chimney pipe

Any person with basic mason skills should be able to assemble such a stationary barbecue roaster. There is nothing complicated - no ordering is even required. The given diagram will be sufficient, which can be taken as a basis and, if desired, changed in terms of the dimensions of the building or its individual elements.

The size of the width and depth of the building will be determined by the dimensions of the existing metal sheet for the fryer (item 10). It is advisable that it be made with sides, like a baking sheet, so that the coals do not spill down. Should be the same size comply and grate (item 9) – there can be several of them, for cooking different products at the same time on several levels.
Construction begins from the foundation (item 1). The diagram shows an already paved slab, but it is clear that the cladding is done after the entire barbecue oven has been erected.
Construction begins with laying out 5 U-shaped rows of bricks (item 2). The remaining space below (item 3) can be used to store some kitchen utensils or a supply of firewood.
Masonry always starts from the corners of the wall (item 6), so that a whole brick is laid in these places. The bricks themselves (item 7) can be used any fired - the open placement of the firebox does not imply critical temperatures for them. The rows are laid out “in a dressing”, offset by ½ brick.
The thickness of the seams formed between the bricks (item 5) is about 10 mm. As a solution, you can use heat-resistant masonry mixture, which is purchased in the store. However, the design allows you to get by with ordinary masonry cement-sand mortar with the addition of clay. Another option is one part cement and slaked lime and three parts sand.
After laying the first five rows, lay the sixth row on both sides with a transverse arrangement of bricks (item 4). In this way, shelves are created on which the roasting tray will rest.
Above, the masonry continues in the usual straight rows to the required height (the diagram shows seven rows). On inside Brackets (item 8) are attached to the walls at several levels, which will become stops for laying the gratings.

The design can be changed a little. For example, the photograph above shows that several levels of placement of the roasting pan and grates are provided, respectively, by several rows of transverse laying of bricks. In addition, transverse bricks protruding from the outside can become a support for side tables, which are very convenient for preparing and cutting food right at the barbecue. To do this, it’s easy to post another one brick wall on one or even both sides.

This simple barbecue grill does not involve directional smoke exhaust. True, if such a structure is supposed to be placed in a gazebo, then you can hang a smoke-collecting hood on top, like kitchen hood, and then draw a conclusion from it.

Prices for popular barbecues

A more difficult task - a barbecue with a pipe

The task can be somewhat complicated - build a barbecue with the hearth and chimney completely closed on three sides. It is clear that labor intensity and total costs here they will be significantly higher, but the building itself already looks much more solid and can become a decoration of the site.

There’s probably no need to say a lot here in words - much more information will be provided by the detailed order of the masonry. All that remains is to make some notes on it:

Experienced stove makers always recommend, especially to beginners, that the brickwork be laid with a “dry” mortar, that is, each row of bricks is first laid out without mortar. This helps to accurately determine the row configuration and fit those bricks that require cutting.
Since the structure already has a closed hearth, its layout (internal lining) involves the use of fireclay fire-resistant bricks. In the diagram it is shown in a lighter shade.
In the basement part, you can use ordinary masonry mortar. Starting from the ceiling level under the hearth and above, where the area of high temperatures will be located, a heat-resistant masonry composition is used.
Laying begins with the first completely continuous row. Of course, constant checking for horizontalness is carried out using building level.
Lay on top of the fifth row metal corners– lintels along which the masonry will be carried out at the beginning of six, and then the seventh continuous row. Two compartments located under the fireplace can be used to heat or keep ready-made dishes hot.

Continuation of the scheme - ordering from the tenth row to the very top of the pipe

On top of the eleventh row, jumper strips are again laid, and on top of them are two continuous rows, which will become the bottom of the hearth chamber.
From 14 to 21 rows there is a hearth, the walls of which are immediately lined with fireclay bricks from the inside. If it is assumed that the fire will not be lit on a removable metal pallet, and directly on the surface of the hearth, then its base should also be lined with fireclay bricks.
After laying out 21 rows, a jumper is installed along which the front cover of the hearth will be laid.
In the future, the masonry proceeds strictly according to the scheme, with a gradual narrowing towards the center - this is how the pyramidal part of the chimney is formed.
The stepped rise of the pipe can subsequently be lined with a casing made of thin sheet metal - so that rainwater or snow does not accumulate or stagnate on the ledges. The pipe structure is completed by a rainproof metal cap.
On the side walls of the fireplace, metal brackets can be attached at several levels to accommodate barbecue grills.

As you can see, in this case there is nothing critically complicated: the main thing is consistency, extreme accuracy and accurate calculation when laying each row, with mandatory control of the horizontal and vertical walls.

Again, this structure can be basic, around which it will be easy to attach cutting tables.

Well, for those who still want to build a more complex complex on their own, with wide functionality, with kitchen stove, oven or cauldron for cooking pilaf, you are invited to familiarize yourself with the detailed video instructions. This will help you quickly assess your funds and construction capabilities in order to make the right decision on choosing an acceptable model.

Video: instructions for building a brick barbecue complex

Rest on fresh air V country house or a dacha is not complete without cooking in the open heat. Banal kebabs or baked vegetables won’t surprise anyone, but cooking real pilaf or other things in such conditions complex dish only possible in a special frying pan. This is a barbecue oven, the design of which includes the installation of a cauldron.

General structure of a barbecue oven with cauldron and sink

A barbecue oven is a capital structure for cooking various dishes over the heat of hot coals. The peculiarity of this installation is that the cooking process is carried out on a metal grate without open flame, and the fryer does not close with a lid.

In terminological terms, the concept of “barbecue” means a method of baking meat or vegetable products over smoldering coals at a temperature in the range of 100–130°C.

For the convenience of cooking, such devices are modernized by adding additional compartments and installations to them. A design that combines a barbecue oven, a roasting pan with the ability to install a cauldron, and an extension with a sink has become very popular. It should be noted that the roasting pan can be easily converted into a regular stove by removing the cauldron and placing cast iron rings on the hole different sizes, forming a continuous surface.

A large barbecue oven has many positive and several negative qualities.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of a barbecue oven

Pros

Cons

reliability and durability of the structure;
fire safety, since no open flame is used during the cooking process;
the special taste of cooked dishes, and the crispy crust retains the natural moisture in the food;
visual appeal, thanks to which it will decorate any area;
the opportunity to build a canopy or gazebo over it, which is why pouring rain will not interfere with cooking and communicating with friends;
individual design, showing creative thinking, you can build a structure according to your own design;
the ability to use different cooking techniques;
a diverse structure, which depends on its own capabilities and the size of the building area; for its construction, many structures, both small-sized and modernized, have been developed various settings and devices that form entire complexes for preparing different dishes.

the need to allocate a large area for construction, and not every place on the territory is suitable;
inability to move;
the need to install a capital foundation;
the need for its construction to have not only bricklaying skills, but also experience in the stove business;
high cost.

Photo gallery: ready-made barbecue oven projects

Design using red and fireclay bricks looks very solid The barbecue oven can also be placed in the corner Complex design requires the help of professional builders Light finish has an attractive appearance A creative approach to construction will help make original decoration for the dacha Unusual shape BBQ ovens are eye-catching

Preparation for construction: drawings and optimal dimensions

The construction of a barbecue oven structure must be preceded by preparatory activities on choosing a construction site, drawing up drawings and diagrams.

When choosing a site for construction, you must be guided by the following rules:

There must be a distance of at least 5 m between the furnace complex and the residential building.
Access to the kitchen should not be too far from the structure. If necessary, they can be located under one roof.
The building should be located away from neighbors’ residential buildings, as odors and smoke can irritate them.
The decision of all construction issues should be entrusted to specialists.
Before construction, it is necessary to conduct a soil study and, in accordance with its quality, select the appropriate type of foundation.

The size of the future barbecue oven plays an important role.

If the surface with the sink, barbecue grill or cauldron is placed too low, then after a while your back will get tired, and if the working surfaces are located too high during the cooking process, you cannot avoid burns.

To find the golden mean, you should follow the rule - optimal height The working surface of the barbecue oven should be slightly below the level of the cook’s elbows.

If the width of the selected area does not allow making a wide structure, then this optimal parameter we can consider the value to be 240–250 cm. Such a stove complex will be compact and convenient. The width of the roasting pan should be 63–65 cm.

The size of the stove for the cauldron will be 3.5 bricks on each side, which corresponds to 87 cm.

Selection of material, calculation of required quantity

For the construction of barbecue ovens they use various materials, which include brick, metal, stone and clay.

The latter can be used to make a monolithic structure.

Clay was used in ancient pottery. The first historical mentions of such structures were found in the 3rd millennium BC. Nowadays, this type of furnace is used extremely rarely. To make it you need a special type of fatty clay.

Stone barbecue stoves are more common, but are not widely popular, since their construction requires rubble stone, sandstone and limestone. The disadvantage of this material is that it different shapes, which is why each element has to be carefully selected to each other.

Furnace complexes made of metal are widely used nowadays due to the relative cheapness of the material and the ease of its processing. A large number of ready-made designs go on sale. At home, such structures are made in compact sizes.. For this they use steel sheets or pipes with a thickness of at least 5 mm. A popular option is to use old propane tanks. The wall thickness and dimensions of these containers are suitable for the manufacture of such structures.

The most convenient, high-quality and durable material for the stove is a brick. It has standard sizes and shapes.

It should be noted that not any type of brick is suitable for building a barbecue oven.. For example, silicate cannot be used. For braziers, ovens and other structures operating in high temperature, use fire-resistant red and fireclay material. The combustion chamber is lined only with the second type.

In addition to the main building material, you will need:

Concrete mix to lay the foundation.
Boards or plywood panels for making formwork.
Reinforcing bars for the construction of a metal frame that strengthens the concrete base.
Sand and gravel for the foundation.
Wire, plastic clamps or a welding machine to secure all connections of the reinforcement structure.
Waterproofing material for foundations. For this, thick polyethylene or roofing felt is usually used.
Metal sink, faucet, drainage devices, rubber hose.
Metal corners for installing a countertop with a sink, fasteners for a barbecue grill and other structural elements of the stove.

All these materials require careful calculations.

Bricks, clay mortar

To build a barbecue oven you will need 810–820 fireproof red ones, as well as 30–35 fireclay ones. The thickness of the seams between them is 3–5 mm.

Concrete, sand, gravel

Since the barbecue oven will combine several working areas, its design will occupy a large area of land. In order for this complex to be stable, it is necessary to make a permanent foundation. A slab foundation is suitable as such.

To calculate the exact amount of concrete, you need to know the total volume of the base. To do this you need to use a special geometric formula. Since the foundation will be made in the form of a flattened parallelepiped measuring 270x100x20 cm, the volume of the concrete mixture must be calculated using the formula V=h³, where h is the length of the side of the figure. Using an example, it will look like this: 2.7∙1.0∙0.2=0.54 m³.

Using the same formula, the volume of sand and gravel is calculated. The base requires a layer of each material 10 cm thick. It follows that sand is required: 2.7∙1.0∙0.1=0.27 m³. This is the same value for gravel.

Armature

To prevent the foundation from cracking under the weight of the stove, it is necessary to strengthen it. For this you need metal frame. For its manufacture, reinforcing bars with a thickness of 12 mm are used. Metal structure It is a three-dimensional frame in the form of two gratings, which are connected to each other by pieces of reinforcement 15 cm long. The size of each cell in the frame is 10x10 cm.

It is more convenient to calculate this material in linear meters. To do this, it is necessary to determine the total length of all the reinforcement for the frame. To do this, you must first calculate the number of rods located along the length of the frame, then along the width and between the gratings.

The rods are calculated according to the length of the structure. The length of each of them is 95 cm. It is necessary to determine how many rods will be placed along the length of the foundation if the distance between each of them is 10 cm. For this you need 270:10 = 27 pieces. It is necessary to add one more rod, since it will close the structure from the other edge of the frame. To find out how much it is in linear meters, you need 27∙0.95=26.6 m.

The same calculation principle is used to calculate the amount of reinforcement along the width of the base. For this, 100:10=10 pieces, in linear meters it will be: 2.7∙10=27 m.

You need to add these values to get general parameter one grid: 26.6+27=53.6 m.

Since the design provides two gratings, then 53.6∙2=107.2 linear meters.

Now you need to calculate the number of reinforcement elements connecting the two parts of the frame. These rods are located along the perimeter (at the intersection of each rod), as well as inside the structure, at a distance of 90 cm from each other in rows.

From previous calculations, the number of rods along the width and length of the frame is known: 28 + 10 = 38 m. This value must be doubled, since the elements are located along the perimeter of the structure: 38∙2 = 76 pieces. Inside the frame there are two more rows of 10 pieces, so 76+20=96 pieces. It is easy to determine this value in linear meters: 96∙0.15=14.4 linear meters.

Waterproofing for foundation

To calculate the required amount of waterproofing material, you need to find the area of the base. The area of this figure is determined by the following formula: S=a∙b, where a is the width, b is the length of the rectangle. Let's substitute the values: 2.7∙1.0=2.7 m².

Step-by-step instructions for making a barbecue oven with a cauldron

When the site for construction has been selected and prepared, drawings and diagrams of the future structure have been drawn up, and the necessary materials have been purchased, you can begin the actual construction of the barbecue oven. To do this you need to do the following:

In the selected area, make markings for the foundation of the future furnace. You can use cords and stakes for this.
In accordance with the markings, dig a pit 35 cm deep. Its bottom must be leveled and compacted.
Pour sand inside the pit to form a uniform layer 10 cm thick. The material will be better compressed if it is wet.
Pour the same layer of gravel on top.
Make formwork from edged boards or thick plywood. Its height must be at least 25 cm so that the level of poured concrete does not reach the top edge of the side.
Place the formwork on the bottom of the pit parallel to its walls.
From reinforcing bars 12 mm thick, make a three-dimensional frame with cells measuring 10x10 cm. The structure should not touch the bottom, so place it under it in a checkerboard pattern. wooden blocks or fragments of bricks.
Pour the concrete mixture. For the foundation, use cement grade M 250. The reinforcement frame must be completely hidden under the liquid mortar.
Cover the foundation with waterproofing material. To do this, use roofing material or thick polyethylene. This is necessary so that the moisture inside the concrete evaporates evenly. If you leave the foundation uncovered, then top layer will dry quickly. In the future, this may cause the base to crack. The concrete mixture will harden in 4-5 days. For the first two days, you need to open the waterproofing and water the base with water every 10–12 hours. Polyethylene or roofing felt prevents moisture from evaporating quickly. This ensures uniform hardening of the slab foundation.
When the base is dry, it must be covered with a layer of roofing material or other waterproofing material, and only lay brick on it. The first 6–7 rows are not held together with cement mortar.
The barbecue oven must be arranged in accordance with the diagram. Each subsequent row must be shifted relative to the previous one in a checkerboard pattern. This method has a name - half-brick masonry. This ensures a reliable bond of the material.
For the combustion chamber it is necessary to use fireclay bricks. It can withstand temperatures over 1600°C. Check each row for vertical and horizontal using a building level, square and plumb line.
Create places for ash pans and doors.
For a cauldron, it is necessary to make a combustion chamber in the form of a straight or tapering cylinder. This part of the furnace is made of fireclay bricks.
Construction of the chimney can begin only after the mortar in the masonry has completely hardened. The pipe can be built not only from brick. Metal is often used for this.
Install faucet and sink. Connect the water supply hoses.
After the solution has completely dried and the furnace structure has shrunk, you can begin finishing it. For this you can use stone, brick, tiles or whitewash.
The finishing material must be attached to the prepared base. To do this, you must first plaster the surface using a mounting mesh with a cell size of 10x10 mm.
If you choose whitewash, then you need to use one that does not get dirty. Slaked carbide or lime salt are suitable for this.
To decorate with stones and tiles, it is enough to clean the surface from dust and use ready-made adhesive mixtures.

Video: DIY garden barbecue oven

Nuances of use

In order for the barbecue oven and its working elements to please you for a long time, you need to use it correctly:

The heat will be uniform if you first remove the old ash.
Smoke from residues under the ash pan from previous cooking can spoil the taste of the dish.
Before use, a new cast iron cauldron must be lubricated with sunflower oil, and then heated on the stove for 20 minutes. Add oil if necessary. After the specified time, leave the cauldron to dry, then drain the remaining oil. Wipe the inside with a dry cloth. It is now ready to use. Each subsequent dish cooked in it will be tastier.
It will be more comfortable to use such a stove if the floors in front of it are laid with stone, and a canopy or roof is made over the brazier.

You can build a barbecue oven with your own hands, if you strictly follow the instructions and treat this process responsibly. This design will serve you for a long time and will fully meet your expectations.

The process of preparing shish kebab on a regular iron grill is well known to everyone. But in windy weather or during sudden rain, frying meat becomes problematic, if not impossible. It is much more convenient to make shish kebab or barbecue on a stationary brick grill located under a canopy. In this case, sudden vagaries of weather will not ruin your plans. This material will tell you how to make an outdoor grill out of brick with your own hands.

Schemes of stationary brick grills

Differences between foci located on outdoors, from traditional brick kilns are as follows:

grill or barbecue is built with the purpose of creating comfortable conditions cooking various dishes in the open air;
the design of an outdoor barbecue is much simpler, and the requirements for materials are not so high;
Almost every homeowner can build a simple brick outdoor stove at home or in the country;
The dimensions and arrangement of the barbecue are chosen arbitrarily depending on the wishes and capabilities of the home owners.

All these features, plus the construction of a foundation in the yard, somewhat simplify the work of laying barbecues; it is a little more difficult to build street garden stoves. The latter are small oven complexes where you can not only fry shish kebab, but also cook a variety of food. But first, we will look at the simplest version of a stationary barbecue, which does not even require a solution.

The structure shown in the photo can be erected in literally half an hour on any flat surface. To stack 4 supports, any brick will do, as long as it is level. The height of the supports is arbitrary, depending on your height, so that you can cook comfortably. Then a slab is placed on top, preferably made of a fire-resistant material, such as concrete or mineralite. Next, a bottom of red brick (can be hollow) is laid, and then the walls are erected along conventional technology with dressing.

This design is good because it does not require mortar, is quickly erected and transported from place to place. In addition, the height and dimensions of the barbecue are at your discretion, but within reasonable limits so that the structure is stable. Do not forget to install a metal brazier on the brick bottom, and make small cracks in the masonry for air access.

This kind of small barbecue can also be built on mortar by attaching a metal smoke collector in the form of an umbrella on top. Thanks to this, the smoke during cooking will not dissipate in different directions and get into your face. Below is a diagram of a brick grill covered with a concrete slab and an exhaust hood:

There is only one difficulty in constructing this structure - pouring a concrete slab. But if there are small scraps of plywood or OSB and wooden blocks in the household, the issue is resolved quite quickly. The racks are made from the bars, and the formwork panels are made from plywood. To prevent milk from leaking out of the concrete and the plywood from getting wet, the inside of the formwork must be covered with plastic film before pouring. There you need to place a mesh of reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm. The figure shows a diagram of the formwork and the arrangement of the barbecue:

The smoke collector is made of galvanized roofing steel and is attached to the top of the barbecue. It is not recommended to light a fire directly on a concrete slab; it is better to use a metal brazier for this purpose.

Outdoor stove complexes

The next option is a barbecue oven with a chimney and additional cabinets for kitchen utensils. The mouth of the firebox and the openings for the cabinets are designed with arched vaults, the firewood niche has a conventional ceiling made of bricks laid on steel corners. Below are drawings for a brick barbecue and the order for its construction:

As can be seen from the order, the inside of the firebox is lined with fireclay bricks, which means it does not require a separate brazier. The height of the chimney is arbitrary, depending on the location of the stove and the height of the canopy above it.

The last option we want to present is a more complex outdoor stove for a summer residence. This will require some experience and knowledge of the furnace business. The oven is intended not only for cooking kebabs, but also for cooking food, since it is equipped hob. In this case, the installation of an outdoor stove provides for smoke circulation and requires more materials and accessories:

solid ceramic brick – 450 pcs.;
red hollow brick – 180 pcs.;
fireclay brick – 201 pcs.;
cement grade 400 - 200 kg;
fireclay clay – 40 kg;
sand – 0.1 m3;
corner 40 x 40 mm – 4 m;
cast iron plate 710 x 410 mm;
firebox door 410 x 410 mm – 1 pc.;
valve – 1 pc.;
cleaning door 140 x 140 mm – 1 pc.

Here, too, the internal parts of the furnace exposed to open flames or high temperatures are lined with fireclay bricks. You need to begin preparation and construction by studying the drawing of a brick barbecue, which shows sections of the stove and its order:

Necessary materials for construction

In our case, the main building material is brick. During construction simple barbecues the requirements for it are low. The chamber where it is planned to place the brazier should be made of red ceramic bricks, or even hollow ones. As for the lower supporting part, the choice of material here is entirely at your discretion and capabilities. The task of this part is to support the structure; it is not exposed to high temperatures, which means it can be made of any suitable material.

If a simple outdoor brick grill, made by yourself, has an unsightly appearance, then it can always be plastered or covered with inexpensive porcelain stoneware, but only after the masonry mortar has completely dried.

Another thing is brick outdoor ovens. Here you must follow all the rules of stove art and use high-quality material. For construction you will need solid red brick without cracks or damage, the same applies to fireclay stone. The solution should be used only sand-clay in proportions 1: 1, and for fire-resistant masonry - a solution made of fireclay clay. Such building mixtures commercially available in dry form.

Advice. For laying simple barbecues, 20% M400 cement can be added to the sand-clay mortar for strength.

Any garden stove or barbecue is installed on a solid foundation, so you need to stock up on sand, cement and crushed stone to build the foundation. Don’t forget about the tools needed for masonry work, and for arched vaults you will need special templates - circles. They can be cut from drywall.

Laying the foundation

Construction of the foundation is a rather complex matter and requires geological exploration of the soil composition. But the construction of a fireplace in the yard should be approached a little more simply and at lower costs. Universal recipe- This reinforced concrete slab. Its filling is performed in the following sequence:

dig a hole 30 cm deep and 10-20 cm larger in size than the future stationary grill;
compact the bottom and cover it with crushed stone to a depth of 15 cm;
install formwork protruding 10 cm above ground level;
cover the pit together with the formwork with plastic film;
tie a mesh of reinforcement with a diameter of 12-14 mm with cells 150 x 150 mm. Place it at the bottom of the pit on top of the film, placing supports;
prepare concrete in the proportions of 1 part cement / 3 parts sand / 7 parts medium or fine crushed stone and place it in the formwork;
After setting, cover the slab with film and wait 28 days until completely hardened.

Before making a barbecue, the surface of the foundation must be covered with 2 layers of roofing material, ensuring waterproofing of the structure.

The simplest brick barbecues for a summer residence are built in compliance with the usual rules for laying stones with bandaging and alignment to level and plumb. Here it is important to prepare a good solution from sifted sand and clay so that there are no pebbles in it. The thickness of the masonry joint on clay mortar is maintained within 5 mm, on cement mortar – up to 10 mm.

Advice. The lower supporting parts of the grill can be placed on cement-sand mortar with a small addition of clay for plasticity.

More stringent rules apply if you need to build brick grill in the form of a yard stove complex:

each brick is soaked for 2-3 minutes in a bucket of water;
fireclay and ordinary masonry do not tie together;
bricks are adjusted and trimmed as a result of fitting. To do this, the row must first be laid out without mortar;
the horizontal and vertical of the structure is checked after laying each row of stones.

Advice. If you want to build a barbecue out of brick with a decorative slot-like seam, you must not reach the mortar to the front side of the stone during laying.

In order to better understand the sequence of actions, as an example, step-by-step instructions are provided for laying a brick barbecue grill with cabinets for kitchen utensils. The previous section shows its procedures (Option 3), which must be followed. So, the order of masonry is as follows:

from the 1st row to the 8th, the walls of cabinets and a wood niche are erected;
9th row: using templates, the arches of red brick cabinets are laid out, steel corners are placed above the firewood;
10th row: the ceiling of the wood niche is formed from fireproof stones, cut to 18 cm and placed on edge;
11th and 12th rows: all niches are overlapped, while along the entire perimeter the bricks are released outward by a quarter;
Along the 15th row, a firebox made of fireclay bricks is laid out. The circle is cut out and installed to form the arch;
Along the 20th row, outer walls and a firebox are erected. An arched vault is laid out from fireclay stones, cut “to a wedge”;
from the 20th to the 24th row, the bricks are cut so as to gradually move to the chimney cross-section;
all the stones of the 24th row are projected out a quarter, then the construction of the chimney follows.

As a result, we get this nice structure:

Conclusion

If you choose barbecues for a dacha or a house of simple design, then their construction will not cost a lot of work. As for outdoor stoves, you will have to spend time and effort, but the result looks much better and more practical.