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Drywall on wooden frame: arguments and counter-arguments, restrictions and installation tips

When does it make sense to mount drywall sheet on the frame in general, and on the wooden one in particular? In what cases is it not advisable to use a wooden crate? How and from what it is correct to assemble a wooden frame for drywall? How to perform frame sheathing and puttying GKL? In my article I will try to answer these questions.

GKL against plaster

First, let's decide whether it is worth messing with drywall at all, or is it better to use plaster in the old fashioned way.

Here are the arguments in favor of the GKL:

• High finishing speed due to large sheet area (3 square meters with a size of 2500x1200 mm);
• Possibility with minimal cost eliminate significant irregularities in the base. Say, with a height difference between adjacent elements of a slab floor of 8-10 centimeters (yes, yes, this happens), it is very expensive and unsafe to level the ceiling with plaster: falling plaster of such thickness can cause a lot of trouble.

But for the GKL on the crate, the state of the surface under it does not matter - if only there was something to attach the frame to;

• The surface of kraft paper (gypsum core shell) has excellent adhesive properties. You can glue wallpaper of any density on it using any wallpaper glue; the tile is also perfectly glued to cement tile adhesive or home-made cement-based mortar.

Curious: for tiling the drywall over the bathroom, I used spot applied silicone sealant. It was also used to seal the joints between the tiles and adjoin the apron to the bath. All seams retain absolute tightness for three years of active use of the bathroom; The tiles are more than secure.

How does drywall compare to plaster?

1. mechanical strength. I will clarify: according to this parameter, gypsum sheet material second only to cement plaster. Using plasterboard for wall decoration in a gym or workshop is a dubious idea;
2. Resistant to water with constant contact with it. Alas, even moisture-resistant drywall tolerates only high humidity. It is worth immersing the gypsum core in water - and it will get wet just like any other gypsum product. Accordingly, it would be a bad idea to use drywall without the protection of a waterproof finish for the construction of shower walls;
3. Occupied usable area rooms. Walls with minor irregularities in a small room are best leveled with a thin layer of plaster: after all, even glued directly to the wall, without a crate, a GKL sheet, taking into account the thickness of the glue, will shift the surface of each wall by at least 20 mm. When mounted on a frame, each wall will move to the center of the room already by 60 - 80 mm.

Frame against glue

When is it worth mounting drywall on the frame, and when is it better to glue it directly to the wall?

Everything is simple here: if the drops, blockages and curvilinearity of the base exceeds 40 - 50 millimeters, the frame is necessary. In other cases, glue is preferable: again, it will save room space.

There are, however, two more scenarios that will make you lean towards fastening the GKL along the crate:

1. Mounting drywall partition. Here, comments seem to be not required: without a frame, its skin simply has nothing to attach to;
2. Laying behind the lining of the wall of communications - water supply, sewerage, electrical wiring, ventilation ducts, etc. Hiding them behind a false wall is much easier than ditching a main wall.

In some cases (for example, when it comes to a panel partition inside an apartment), strobes of considerable width and depth are impossible in principle.

Tree versus profile

In what cases is it permissible to install drywall on a wooden frame, and when is a galvanized profile preferable?

The bar has the only advantage - cheapness. In order not to be unfounded, I will give the average prices for a bar and a profile for the Moscow region:

Next: wood, unlike galvanized steel, hygroscopic, and is also capable of change its linear dimensions and geometry depending on air humidity. On the practical side, this means that in a damp room, a wooden crate can warp and bend the wall cladding, or even lead to cracks along its seams.

Finally the tree subject to biological influences: it rots and becomes food for woodworms. Again, unlike galvanized.

1. Drywall wood frame can be used only in dry rooms. For a bathroom, kitchen or combined bathroom, you should prefer a galvanized profile;
2. Elements of the crate before its assembly in without fail must to be treated with an antiseptic.

Loophole

There is, however, an easy way to bring the wood closer to the galvanized profile along performance. In order for it to completely lose its hygroscopicity and the ability to deform with fluctuations in humidity, the bar is enough impregnate with drying oil: the oils that make it up will fill the pores between the fibers in the outer layer of the tree, forming a water-impermeable shell during polymerization.

This operation has several subtleties:

• Drying oil is best applied heated in a water bath. Then it penetrates deeper into the fiber structure; accordingly, the waterproof coating will be more durable;

• It is easier not to cover the ends of a bar cut to size with drying oil with a brush, but to dip it into a jar with it. It is the ends, due to the orientation of the fibers perpendicular to the surface, that are most vulnerable to moisture;
• Drying oil dries for several days and has a strong characteristic odor. For drying the bar, it is better to highlight separate room with good ventilation.

Material selection

What exactly is the frame for drywall made of wood made of?

It was not in vain that I cited a 50x50 mm bar as an example of the price of a crate: it is he who is the most popular material for assembling the frames of partitions and crates (ceiling and wall).

With special requirements for the rigidity of the partition, it can also be assembled from a bar 50x100; in this case, the wide side is oriented perpendicular to the plane of the wall: this is how maximum resistance to side loads is achieved.

Finally, when mounting the wall batten, edged and unedged board arbitrary width. It is attached to the main wall with long dowel screws or even nails in wooden choppers.

Are there any requirements for the quality of wood?

When assembling the frame or when installing the crate on suspensions - yes.

Wood should not have defects from the following list:

• Rot and damage by woodworms;
• Oblique layer (significant deviation of the direction of the wood fibers from the longitudinal axis of the bar);
• Falling knots with a diameter of more than a third of the side of the bar.

The instruction is connected with the fact that all these defects have a detrimental effect on the strength of the frame. In addition, the moisture content of the wood should not exceed 20%: when drying, the bar often warps.

Frame mounting rules

Partition

The assembly of the partition frame begins with marking the fastening lines of the upper and lower trim on the ceiling and on the floor, as well as the extreme racks on the adjacent walls. To keep the lines strictly in the same plane, use a plumb line.

Then, strapping bars and extreme racks are attached to the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls. Under them is laid damper tape, excluding the transmission of acoustic vibrations capital structures buildings and thereby contribute to sound insulation. For fastening the strapping and racks to the walls can be used anchor bolts or ordinary dowel-screws.

The next step is the installation of racks. The step between them is determined by the requirements for the rigidity of the partition and is 40 or 60 centimeters. The width of the sheet (120 cm) must be a multiple of this step so that the seam between adjacent sheets falls exactly in the middle of the rack.

The edges of adjacent sheets, if possible, should be attached to a common element of the frame or crate for them. In this case, the likelihood of cracks at the seams is minimal.

Connections of racks with strappings do not experience significant operational loads - they are taken over by the lining of the partition, drywall, therefore, any methods of fastening the racks are acceptable:

• Hammered or angled nails or self-tapping screws;
• An insert from a trimming bar, which is attached to the harness, after which the rack is attracted to it;

• Galvanized perforated lining;
• Furniture corners;
• Insert racks half a tree with landing on glue. However, it is not suitable for frame elements impregnated with drying oil: impregnation reduces the adhesive qualities of the adhesive.

For gluing dry wood, you can use both specialized wood glues and ordinary PVA construction glue. For our purposes, the strength of its seam is quite sufficient; drying glue takes no more than 12 hours.

How to install a door in a wooden frame partition?

1. In the lower trim, a pass is made for the width of the door with the box;
2. The door leaf is wedged in the box with wooden wedges. The goal is to leave gaps after installation that do not allow the door to overwrite jambs;
3. From one of the edges of the doorway, a rack adjacent to the box is mounted;
4. A strip is applied to the outer surface of the box polyurethane foam, after which it is attracted by self-tapping screws to the rack. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from the side of the rack, their length is selected so that they go deep into the box, but do not go through it;
5. On the second side of the opening, the second rack is mounted in the same way;
6. From above, the racks are connected by a jumper;
7. All connections of racks with strapping are reinforced with galvanized lining on self-tapping screws.

A light window (for example, in the wall of a bathroom) is installed in a similar way - adjusted for the fact that its frame rests on a horizontal jumper between the uprights.

Lathing on hangers

How to assemble with your own hands wooden crate for facing a wall with significant irregularities with drywall?

1. The assembly of the frame in this case also begins with the attachment to the floor and ceiling of the lower and top strapping. A damper tape is also placed under them. The method of attaching the harnesses is the same as in the scenario discussed above;
2. Then, extreme racks are attached to the adjacent walls through the damper flight;
3. On the main wall, strictly vertically, along the plumb line, the positions of the intermediate racks are marked (I remind you, in increments of 40 or 60 cm from center to center of the bar);
4. Along each rack with a step of 80 cm, direct suspensions are fastened with dowel-screws;
5. The racks are set according to the markings, after which the ears of the suspensions are screwed to them with wood screws 25 mm long. The free part of the ears is bent to the wall. The frame is ready for sheathing.

Lathing on gaskets

With a relatively small curvilinearity of the wall, the crate can be attached to it without hangers, using spacers from scraps of wood or plywood. In this case, as I mentioned above, you can use not only a bar, but also an unedged board.

If necessary, lumber of any width can be dissolved into narrow boards or a bar of ordinary manual circular saw with guide frame. Sawing one board takes no more than two to three minutes.

The crate is attached to the main wall with long dowel screws or nails into pre-drilled holes with wooden chopsticks. The lower harness as such is missing; instead of it, short bars are drawn into the gap between the racks of the crate to the floor and ceiling, which will later serve to fasten the plinth and baguette.

Ceiling

The frame of a simple single-level flow is mounted in the same way as a crate on direct suspensions - adjusted for the location in horizontal plane. Thick (at least 15 mm) plywood is used to create a frame for the curved elements of a multilevel flow; when sheathing, the GKL is attracted by self-tapping screws to its end.

sheathing

How to mount drywall on a wooden frame?

For wall cladding, wall plasterboard with a thickness of 12.5 mm is used. The ceiling is usually sheathed ceiling plasterboard 9.5 mm thick. In dry rooms, ordinary GKL (white) is used, in wet rooms - moisture resistant (blue).

Let me remind you once again: in rooms with high humidity, the wooden frame must be consistently impregnated with an antiseptic and drying oil.

To fasten the sheet, wood screws 32 mm long are used. The length of the self-tapping screws exceeds that used when mounting on a profile. The step between adjacent attachment points is 15-20 centimeters; the average consumption of fasteners is 100 self-tapping screws per sheet 2500x1200 in size.

When installing additional sheets (if the height of the wall exceeds the length of the sheet), an additional bar is laid under the seam perpendicular to the uprights. Instead, you can use a piece of board or thick (from 12 mm) plywood. The main thing is that the edges of adjacent sheets are attached to a common frame element.

Where a wall or partition does not experience deforming loads (for example, under the ceiling), you can do without laying a bar under the transverse seam. In his absence, it is especially important to correctly perform the reinforcement, which I will talk about a little later.

In rooms with high traffic or with expected significant loads on the walls (kitchen, hallway, etc.), it is better to sheathe the frame in two layers. GKL of the first layer is fastened with self-tapping screws 32 mm long; fastener consumption - 20-30 self-tapping screws per full-size sheet. The second layer of GKL is mounted with dressing of horizontal and vertical seams; for fastening, wood screws 45 mm long are used at the rate of 100 pieces per sheet.

How to cut drywall to the desired size?

• Curvilinear parts are cut with an electric jigsaw with a wood file. GKL is cut by him very quickly and without any effort, but when cutting, a huge amount of gypsum dust rises into the air. It settles on all surfaces in the room. Gypsum is especially destructive for the bearings of cooling systems for computers and laptops, so for the duration of the repair they must be kept turned off and covered with polyethylene;

• Along the straight lines of the GKL are incised sharp knife along the ruler a quarter of the thickness, after which they break on the edge of the table or any other suitable elevation.

After installation, the seams between the sheets cut to size are embroidered: a chamfer is sharply removed from the edges at an angle of 45 degrees to half the thickness of the sheet.

Reinforcement and puttying

A drywall sheathed wall or partition is not yet ready for fine finish: caps of self-tapping screws and seams between sheets must be hidden with putty. In addition, the seams and outer corners of the walls need reinforcement and reinforcement.

Traditionally used for reinforcing seams sickle- self-adhesive fiberglass mesh with a cell size of about 2 millimeters. It is glued along the seam, after which it is filled with putty directly through the mesh cells. It is necessary to putty at least twice: gypsum putty gives a small, but quite noticeable shrinkage during drying.

External corners are reinforced:

• Galvanized perforated corner profile;
• Plastic profile with mesh.

The corner is recessed in the putty applied to the corner, after which it is covered with another layer of it.

However: I prefer to use a decorative plastic corner pasted after puttying and painting on silicone sealant to protect the corners.

In the photo - the corner of the partition, protected by a decorative plastic corner.

What putty to use to level the surface?

The most common in Russia are gypsum putties produced German company Knauf - HP Finish and Fugen. However, I liked the cheaper and less common ABS Saten: the mixture lives noticeably longer (at least 45 minutes versus 25-30 for Knauf products), if necessary, can be diluted with water (which increases its life time to an hour or more) and does not give lumps when mixed.

How to prepare putty?

1. Water at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg dry gypsum mixture poured into a wide bowl (I use a plastic paint bucket);
2. The mixture is poured into water, distributing as evenly as possible over its surface;
3. After 3-5 minutes, the swollen putty is mixed - manually (with a spatula) or with a mixer nozzle for a drill.

How and how to properly putty the seams, corners and caps of self-tapping screws?

• Hats are covered with two movements of a spatula 10-12 cm wide crosswise. The first sliding movement fills the recess with putty, the second ("to strip") removes its excess;
• The seams are also filled with cruciform movements of the same spatula. In this case, the seam is filled with putty as tightly as possible. Cavities in it increase the likelihood of cracks. With the second pass, the seam, together with the sickle reinforcing it, is covered with longitudinal movements of the spatula 30–35 cm wide;

• For alignment of external and internal corners it is better to use special corner spatulas.

After filling the seams and masking the caps of the GKL fasteners, they often putty over the entire area. A layer of putty about a millimeter thick completely masks the seams and does not allow the base to shine through the painting.

Next stage - grinding. GCR is ground with grids No. 80 in the first pass and No. 120 - 160 in the second pass. It is better to grind in bright oblique lighting, which will emphasize the slightest irregularities due to the shadows they cast. I use an inexpensive vibratory sander for grinding.

By the way: if necessary, intermediate grinding can be performed after filling the seams and sealing the screws. Its necessity is determined only by the state of the surface.

The smooth surface of the GKL is dedusted (I clean it of dust with an ordinary whisk) and primed with a penetrating acrylic primer. The primer will stick the remaining dust and improve the adhesion between the surface of the drywall and finish coating- paint or wallpaper.

Wallpaper can be glued immediately after the soil has dried, but painting will have to wait at least two weeks after puttying. If you hurry, the seams will show through any number of layers of paint due to moisture that has not completely evaporated.

Conclusion

I sincerely hope that I was able to answer all the questions that the dear reader has accumulated. As usual, the video in this article will offer additional information to your attention. Feel free to share in the comments own experience. Good luck, comrades!

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Plasterboard products are very popular in today's construction and renovation business because they have a number of advantages, such as additional sound insulation and heat retention.

The work involves the use of metal or wooden frames, the latter are becoming more popular every year, because wooden crafts are natural, environmentally friendly, non-toxic and safe for both humans and environment. They are as simple as possible to install, which allows you to carry out the installation yourself, without resorting to the services of specialists, construction repair teams.

The wooden frame for drywall is made from coniferous wood, and the timber is selected depending on the height and method of sheathing.

What is this article about

Tree selection and preparation

The selected tree for the manufacture of battens for plasterboard must comply with the following characteristics:

• humidity should be in the range from 12 to 18% (humidity should not exceed 20%, otherwise all fixing materials will fall out when the wood dries, and the structure itself will collapse);
• the material before use must be necessarily treated from insects, rodents and other biological factors according to the principle of processing the first group fire safety;
• the connection of the frame elements is made with the help of spikes, because they provide the most durable connection between them, as well as with the ceiling or wall (nails and self-tapping screws are allowed);
• mineral wool for sound insulation should be in the range from 50 to 60 mm;
• the optimal size of the bar for creating the base of the frame is considered to be 40 by 40 mm, and bars measuring 40 by 80 mm are perfect for joining gypsum boards.

It is worth noting that when choosing wooden products, you should pay attention to their size - it should be the same, because this will save time and additional effort during installation.

A mandatory item is to leave the tree indoors for several days (at least 2 days) so that it can acclimatize, after which it must be treated with an antiseptic to extend its service life. Such processing saves the product from destruction by all sorts of biological factors, such as: mold and fungi, rotting, invasion of insects and rodents (the antiseptic contains components that repel pests, for this, for example, 3-4% sodium fluoride, which has good penetrating properties, is not harmful and toxic to humans).

Leave the tree in the room for a couple of days before starting work so that it acquires the humidity and temperature of the room and does not “walk” in the future.

Wooden frame features

The wooden frame for drywall is very flexible, unpretentious in work and convenient, which allows you to do the installation yourself as much as possible. short time without having special knowledge, skills and without spending a large number Money.

When choosing a tree as a base, you need to know that it is in poor contact with water and high humidity, so it is not recommended to use it in rooms with high humidity. This can lead to damage to the entire structure, its deformation and swelling. If water enters and then dries, the product may crack or get other defects.

Also, the tree is difficult to bend, which is necessary to create a special design.

What tools are needed for installation?

In order for the work to be done efficiently and quickly, it is necessary to purchase and prepare in advance the following tools and materials:

• wooden blanks and suspensions;
• dowels and plumb;
• hammer and screwdrivers;
• level, profile and crowbar;
• tape measure and coated thread;
• screwdriver and screws themselves;
• drill with a drill (can be replaced with a puncher);
• hacksaw and a special construction knife;
• squares and brackets;
• marking cord and pencil.

All tools are standard and very affordable (you can buy them at any hardware store), so there will be no problems with their choice and purchase. Some tools can be rented, such as a screwdriver and a drill, if they are not needed in the future, this is very convenient and economical. After preparing all the components, you can proceed to the installation of the ceiling.

Stages of work

markup

it major step in the installation, so the final result will depend on it, so that the whole procedure goes without errors, it is worth starting the markup with the most low angle indoors, after which, using the hydraulic level, it is necessary to mark the remaining corners. Using this method, it will be possible not to be afraid that one of the edges will not fit into the overall geometry of the building.

When marking, leave approximately 5 cm so that you can hide the base lighting fixtures and wires. Next, you need to make marks on the walls in order to connect them later, they must be perfectly even.

After that, it is necessary to mark the place where it is necessary to fix the suspensions.

Assembling the frame base

Fastening drywall to wooden bars begins with the fact that all the details are adjusted to the desired size, sawing off unnecessary parts. It should be noted that it is necessary to leave approximately 1 cm between the wall and the crate, so that in the future it may be possible to increase the details.

First of all, it is necessary to fix the guide elements of the base along the perimeter of the room so that they are a guideline for determining the level of the ceiling surface. It is very important here that they are located strictly horizontally in a single plane.

To clearly see how all the details should be located in the plane, you can use the following method: you need to install one thread from one corner of the room, and other threads need to be pulled so that they cross the room up and down, they will help you understand how and where the plane will be located.

A wooden crate for drywall suggests that the fastening of all elements will be done with nails, if the walls are not brick or concrete, in this case fastening step should be between 40 and 60 cm.

After all the bars are fixed, you can proceed to fasten the remaining parts of the crate, you need to do this so that the gvl are located across the crate. It should be noted that if the distance does not exceed the thickness of the wood detail, then fasteners can be made directly to the base of the base. If the situation is reversed, then you will first need to install the suspensions using dowels, and only after that attach the wooden elements to the suspensions using self-tapping screws.

If there is a small difference between the distance from the base ceiling and the difference in the thickness of the part, then correct the situation by placing pieces of plywood under the rails right size using a planer.

To provide the entire structure with high stability and reliability, it is necessary to attach wooden elements and make sure that the step does not exceed 100 cm.

Drywall installation

To carry out quality installation drywall sheets on a wooden crate, it is necessary to work in increments of 30 cm, while installing self-tapping screws in such a way that their heads are slightly driven into the sheet.

When working, it is necessary to ensure that all joints of drywall sheets are located strictly on the base, without hanging in the air.

It is worth noting that at all stages of work it is worthwhile to clearly ensure that the ceiling is even and there are no knocks, roughness and irregularities anywhere. If you do not follow this, upon completion of work, the whole structure may turn out to be oblique, which will greatly affect the quality and appearance ceiling.

All work can be done independently, without resorting to the services of professionals, if you purchase quality material, process it correctly, prepare it and strictly follow the instructions described above. Quality work can provide high strength and reliability of the entire crate, as well as its durability.

Choosing a tree as a base, you can be sure of its quality, safety and capabilities, because it can be given any shape suitable for any future interior apartments or houses with a planer. Thanks to this, a wooden frame can be an excellent alternative to metal counterparts.

Drywall is a multifunctional building material of our time, with which you can sheathe any room in home. For creating frame base under the GKL, you can use wooden or metal profiles.

Most often in repair work use a metal frame, which provides greater structural strength. But making it is much more difficult than from wooden slats. Therefore, along with metal, a wooden frame for drywall is often used. Wood is environmentally friendly pure material and this is another reason why many prefer it as the basis for home renovations. Moreover, such a frame is much easier to make at home.

In order for the wooden structure in the house to serve for a long time, the tree must be properly prepared. This material is highly susceptible to biological corrosion, climatic influences and burns well. Therefore, before making a wooden frame or partition, the tree should be prepared according to the rules.
Note! It is best to make a partition or frame from conifers.
Before starting, they usually chemical treatment. For this wooden slats treated over the entire surface with antiseptic substances. This will help you prevent:

• damage to wood by mold or fungal microorganisms. And under their influence, the tree deteriorates very quickly;
• the risk of damage to the tree by arboreal insects that use the wood as food;
• biological decay;
• damage to the bars by rodents that can be found in a house, especially a country one.

Today, the market is replete with a wide variety of antiseptics. But the best is sodium fluoride. It penetrates very deep into the wood and is poorly washed out of it.

It should be noted that sodium fluoride does not decompose and cannot lead to metal corrosion. It is also non-toxic to humans and odorless, which is a great advantage for processing with this substance. wooden beams and rails at home.
In addition to sodium fluoride, sodium silicofluoride with the addition of soda ash.
It is strictly forbidden to use in residential premises the following types oil antiseptics:

• coal;
• creosote;
• anthracene oils;
• shale.

When processing wood with such substances, a person can harm his health!

Before carrying out the installation of wooden planks, the slats must be in the room where they will be fixed for several days. Thanks to this, they will undergo sufficient acclimatization.
Remember that the slats must be made of quality lumber, which must necessarily meet the requirements of fire safety and humidity.

The seller, upon request, is obliged to provide you with a certificate or certificate stating that the material has been treated with a flame retardant and has passed a special examination by authorized bodies.

Creating a drawing

Before starting mounting wooden elements construction, draw a drawing.
It is created like this:

• measure the length of the room;
• measure the height of the room;
• multiply the resulting numbers and get the perimeter of the room;
• then we measure the perimeter of the windows in the same way, doorways and put them on the drawing.

Drawing

By creating a diagram, you can evaluate the range of upcoming work and decide on the amount of materials. With him you will do correct frame, and you do not have to bend the elements and tamp them so that they fit perfectly into the structure.

Tools for the job

You can make a wooden frame for drywall using the following tools:

• screwdriver;
• a hammer;
• construction knife;
• concrete drill with impact drill;

Tools

• wood saw;
• plumb line, tape measure and pencil;
• building level;
• screwdriver, crowbar;
• brackets, dowels and screws.

With this tool at hand, wooden partition or frame will be very easy even for a beginner.

Installation work

Installation of a wooden structure for drywall involves the following processes:

• tracing (marking) of the wall. We put all the elements of the drawing on the wall;
• we measure the distance of the plane of the future partition and retreat from it to the width of the GKL. You should start from the ceiling. We hammer in a nail and hang a plumb line on it. We mark a point on the floor;
• by connecting these two points, you will get the first line;
• then repeat the procedure;

Note! You can do it a little easier. Attach the GKL sheet to the wall (short side) and simply draw a perpendicular from a given point.

• then we begin to make the installation of the frame. We fasten the bars along the lines. Bend wooden beams should not, otherwise they can simply be broken. Can be fastened with both self-tapping screws and spikes (in wooden house). In a stone house we use screws, dowels, brackets or direct hangers;
• along the walls and ceiling we fasten solid bars. Remember that it is impossible to bend a solid beam, so changing the design will no longer work. In this regard, make all fastenings with a level check;
• along the floor, the divergence of the bars on both sides of the doorway is allowed;
• when the opening is located near the wall, we use a solid beam running on one side of this opening;
• Next, we carry out the installation of vertical rails. We install rails strictly according to the level. You can bend them slightly if the rail is slightly uneven. But don't overdo it or it will break.

finished frame

Note! To do wooden structure, you can use bars and slats different section. The choice of section should be made depending on the method of sheathing and the height of the partition. You also need to take into account the level of load that the frame will experience in the future, so as not to bend its elements.
When the frame is ready, you can install the doorway:

• on the sides of the opening it is necessary to install two risers. The width of the doorway should be 4 cm more than the width of the door frame;
• we strengthen the risers with additional bars;
• at the level of the door frame, add 2.5 cm and install a horizontal lintel. To fix the jumper, it is not necessary to bend it;
• jumper with ceiling rail connect with two vertical bars. They will make the structure more rigid. They will also be needed for fixing drywall sheets in the future;
• Next, attach the racks. Their step, so as not to bend the frame, is 60 cm;
• in the case when the ceilings are slightly higher than the length of the drywall sheet, we make a horizontal jumper in order to better join the sheets at the stage of their installation.

Advice. To determine the location of the jumper above the opening, you need to attach a drywall sheet and nail the jumper in place of its edge so that it goes to its middle.
To increase the rigidity of the structure and the level of load it can withstand at the junction of the bars, use metal corners and pads that are designed to collect truss systems. Thus, you prevent the mechanical destruction of the frame and make it more resistant to mechanical influences from the side.
The finished structure and each of its details should be checked during installation. building level. Racks must go strictly vertically, and all jumpers - horizontally. In this case, the racks should be positioned in such a way that the maximum fit on the wall possible number whole sheets of drywall. As a result, you will save not only time, but also reduce material consumption.
A wooden crate for drywall is quite easy to do with your own hands, subject to a number of rules and technologies. The main thing is to strictly follow the instructions and you will get even the most complex elements of it.

To work with drywall use various materials. The most common method is the installation of profile metal frames, however, quite often you can find wooden structures.

Wood is a natural, environmentally friendly building material, so many people prefer it. It is worth saying that the tree is subject to climatic influences, biological corrosion and fire hazard, and therefore requires additional processing.

Wood preparation

Making a drywall frame out of wood softwood. A beam of various sections is used, the value of which depends on the height of the partition and the method of sheathing.

Main physical characteristics:

• Humidity from 12 to 18%.
• For partitions of the W121 brand with a height of 2.8–3 m, a beam with a section of 60 × 50 mm for risers and 60 × 40 mm for the crate is used.
• For partitions of the W122 brand with a height of 2.8–4.2 m, a beam with a section of 60 × 50 mm is suitable for risers and battens, while depending on the height, different sheet thicknesses are used: for a height of 2.8–3 m - 2 × 12.5 mm, 3.3–3.6 m - 2 × 14 mm, 3.6–3.9 m - 2 × 16 mm, 3.9–4.2 m - 2 × 18 mm.
• The step between the risers for all cases should not exceed 60 cm.
• Fire retardant treatment must comply with the first fire safety group.
• Connection on nails, spikes and self-tapping screws is allowed, while spikes are most preferable, as they create a rigid and durable connection.
• The thickness of sound insulation made of mineral wool should be between 50 and 60 mm.
• The wall thickness can be from 85 to 132 mm.
• The insulation index ranges from 41 to 51 depending on the thickness of the wall.

Important!
Before installation, the wood should lie down for several days in the room where it is supposed to be installed in order to acclimatize.

Use quality lumber that meets moisture and fire safety requirements. Make sure that you have certificates about the processing of the material with flame retardants and the passage of relevant examinations.

In addition to fire-fighting treatment, the wooden frame for drywall must undergo antiseptic treatment.

This measure is aimed at combating all kinds of biological risk factors, namely:

• Fungal and mold microorganisms. A tree can serve as a nutrient medium for the mycelium of a number of mold fungi, while the wood becomes unusable and collapses.
• biological decay. Wood is an organic material that is subject to necrobiosis and decay. Preservation requires antiseptic treatment.
• carpenter insects. Many insects are known to feed on wood and render it unusable.
• rodents. They also pose a danger to the tree. Treatment with antiseptics repels these animals.

Insect pests can damage wood in a short time

Various types of antiseptics are used chemical compounds. One of the best is sodium fluoride.

It is a light gray powder, soluble in hot water. The marginal rate is 3.5–4%.

Sodium fluoride penetrates well into the wood and is very weakly washed out. At the same time, the compound does not decompose and does not provoke metal corrosion, has no smell and is not toxic to humans. Fairly strong antiseptic.

Sodium silicofluoride is also used, often with the addition of soda ash, which converts it to pure sodium fluoride.

The use of oily antiseptics is unacceptable for residential premises:

• creosote;
• coal;
• shale;
• anthracene oils.

These compounds are toxic and can harm the health of people living in the home.

Installation of a wooden frame under drywall

Tracing lines connecting partition walls to walls

To draw lines, use the rule

To do this, measure the distance at which the plane of the future partition should be located and step back from it the width of the GKL sheet.

It is better to do this along the ceiling-wall line. Noting desired point under the ceiling, it is easy to transfer it plumb down the wall. To do this, we hammer a nail at a point, hang a plumb line and mark the corresponding point at the bottom of the wall, near the floor.

We connect these two points and get the first line. Next, you need to draw from the bottom point perpendicular to the wall line.

• This can be done by constructing the "Egyptian Triangle" − right triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5, where 3 and 4 correspond to the legs, and 5 is the hypotenuse. At the same time, one leg is set aside along the wall from the bottom point, making it a multiple of three.
• From the bottom point we build an arc of a circle in the direction perpendicular to the wall with a radius that is a multiple of four.
• From the other end of the leg, built along the wall, we build an arc of a circle with a radius that is a multiple of five so that it intersects with the previously constructed arc.
• By connecting the point of intersection of these arcs with the original low point, we get a perpendicular to the wall. We draw a line along this perpendicular on the floor - the second line of our partition.

We connect the two upper points on the walls along the ceiling and get the fourth last line. Thus, we must draw a rectangle along the lines floor-wall-ceiling-wall, along which the partition will adjoin the room.

Advice!
To build a perpendicular, you can go for a trick - attach a sheet of drywall to the wall with the short side, and draw a perpendicular along the long side from the calculated point.

Frame assembly

As you can see in the photo, the frame consists of a frame, vertical and horizontal bars. The installation of the frame should begin with the frame.

To do this, along the lines that we built along the walls and ceiling, fix the bars. If the house is wooden, we fasten them with screws or spikes to ceiling beam, floor joists and walls.

If the building is stone, we fasten the bars with dowels and screws. You can also use straight hangers or brackets.

We fasten solid bars along the walls and ceiling. Along the floor, the timber should diverge in both directions from the doorway. If the opening is located against the wall, the lower beam will be solid and lie on one side of the opening.

So, we fix all the bars, for drilling holes in the walls and ceiling we use an impact drill with a drill for concrete.

Doorway

Doorway formed by double risers

Do-it-yourself doorway installation instructions:

1. To do this, we install two risers on the sides of it. The width of the opening should be 4-5 cm wider than the door frame.
2. We install the risers and strengthen them with additional bars.
3. At the height of the door frame plus 2-3 cm, we install a horizontal jumper, which we connect with two vertical bars to the ceiling rail.
4. Vertical bars give the structure additional rigidity and are needed for joining drywall sheets.

Racks

To determine the location of the jumper, we apply a sheet of drywall, which will be located at the doorway, in place of its edge we fix the jumper so that the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the board.

Advice!
To connect the beams, it is better to use metal corners and metal linings designed for assembling truss systems.
These fasteners are reliable and designed for significant loads.

We check each detail by level, the racks must be strictly vertical, the lintels must be horizontal.

Try to arrange the racks so that the wall contains the maximum possible number of whole sheets of plasterboard. This will save time and material.

The work on sheathing the frame with GKL sheets is the topic of a separate article. We can only say that drywall is mounted on a wooden frame in the same way as on a metal one.

It should be noted that the price of a profile is lower than that of high-quality lumber, and dealing with low-quality lumber is more expensive for yourself, so think carefully.

Tool

You will need:

1. a hammer;
2. wood saw;
3. screwdriver;
4. impact drill with a drill for concrete;
5. construction knife;
6. plumb;
7. level;
8. pencil;
9. roulette;
10. square;
11. crowbar;
12. screwdriver;
13. coated thread;
14. screws;
15. dowels;
16. brackets.

If you don't have an impact drill or a screwdriver, you can rent them at the hardware store.

Also don't forget about mineral wool required for soundproofing. You can use thick mats on the mesh so as not to lay the cotton wool in two layers.

Conclusion

Now you know how to assemble a wooden frame under the plasterboard. In order to more accurately understand the technological and practical issue, our website contains detailed photo and video instructions in which you will find the necessary information on this issue. Good luck!