Paving slabs, paving stones - popular, easy to use and available material for the design of sidewalks, paths, platforms, elements landscape design on the street, in the park, garden, in the garden. She has many virtues and wide area applications, as it is an inexpensive, easy to manufacture and environmentally safe coating.
Paving stones made in compliance with all technological nuances, will be resistant to abrasion, withstand many cycles of freezing and subsequent thawing. In addition, it is easy to install and, if necessary, replace damaged areas, this can be done at any time.
Production of paving slabs
It is not difficult to make paving slabs, the technology is quite simple and allows you to get as a result a variety of shapes, sizes and colors. The production process can be sequentially divided into stages:
- form preparation,
- concrete preparation,
- molding,
- curing and drying of finished products,
- stripping,
- storage.
The most simple and suitable, including for home use, is a technology of vibration casting using plasticizing additives. It doesn't require high costs on equipment, it, if you have the skills, it is possible to make it yourself. The result is low-porosity concrete pavers with a dense texture and a smooth surface. This is just achieved with vibration casting, when the concrete is compacted under the influence of electromechanical vibrators on a special vibration table.
Necessary equipment and materials
Since the tiles are concrete, first of all, a concrete mixer is needed, preferably of a forced type, that is, acting on the principle of a mixer. You will also need a vibrating table, molds for casting and lubricant for them, concrete mix.
Casting molds various sizes and configurations can be purchased freely. On sale they are rubber (they are the most durable, withstand up to 500 castings), plastic and polyurethane (about 200 production cycles). Their variety is very large, manufacturers can also make them to order, whether it be forms with a pattern, a certain surface texture or forms for glossy paving slabs.
Lubrication is necessary for trouble-free stripping of products after the concrete has hardened. It can be purchased at ready-made, and do it yourself. The simplest lubricant is prepared as follows: 50g mineral oil must be mixed with 1.5 liters of water until an emulsion is formed. But it is important to achieve the right balance of fat content, otherwise the lubricant can spoil the appearance of the finished concrete products.
The composition of the concrete mixture is the most important part of the production technology. This includes:
- hard crushed stone of non-metallic rock 3-10 mm, or, as an alternative, granite screenings or gravel;
- cleaned washed sand;
- cement brand M500;
- concrete plasticizer;
- dry dye;
- water.
The composition of the mixture can be changed to obtain different properties final product.
Preparation of concrete mix
The recipe for paving slabs is simple, but requires careful preparation of all ingredients and methodical adherence to the sequence of actions. It is not difficult to calculate the amount of each component if you know the desired proportions of the volume of substances.
For one part of cement, you need to take two parts of a mixture of sand and gravel, 0.02 parts of a plasticizer and 0.2 parts of a dry coloring pigment. The ratio of the volume of water to the volume of the dry mixture will be 2: 3, that is, for three parts of the dry mixture you need two parts of water. This ratio will provide strength to the finished concrete product and is the best suited for home production.
You can also give such a calculation of the approximate consumption of materials per square meter of finished paving slabs with a thickness of 4.5 cm:
- 23 kg of cement;
- 56 kg of crushed stone (gravel or screenings);
- 390 g of plasticizer.
If the concrete is colored, then 1.5 kg will be needed for such a quantity of dye materials. Water will be added not by weight, but by volume of dry components.
To receive quality concrete, you need to follow some rules for handling plasticizer and dye. Neither a plasticizer nor a dye can be added dry to a mixture of cement and crushed stone. The plasticizer is diluted in hot (70-80 degrees C) water (per liter of water 200 g of the substance) and added in portions to the kneaded concrete mortar. The dye is also diluted in water (40-50 degrees C, 250-280 grams of dry dye per liter of water) and added at the same stage as the plasticizer.
Before starting the preparation of the solution, it is necessary to rinse the walls of the concrete mixer with water, as they should be wet. Then water is poured and, with continuous stirring, cement and sand are poured into it in parts. After obtaining a homogeneous emulsion of water and cement, crushed stone is added. Lastly, the plasticizer and dye are poured in, diluted previously. It is necessary to mix the resulting solution until homogeneous, this process takes some time. If the volume of production is planned to be small, you can do without a concrete mixer, mix the mortar manually.
We offer to watch the video instructions for making paving slabs with your own hands:
Form Fill
Technological features of how to fill paving slabs correctly are as follows. It is better to fill the forms with concrete at first up to half, then they need to be placed on a vibrating table. After the work of the vibrating table begins, the concrete will begin to compact, evidence of which will be foam bubbles on its surface - this is how the air in the mixture comes out. As concrete settles, it must be added to the required height.
Also, if gravel or crushed stone is not added to the solution, you can increase the strength of the tile by placing reinforcement in the form of an iron mesh or wire in the casting mold.
Concrete can be poured in layers, for example, to save dye. Front side finished block then it will be colored and the rest of it will be grey. The color and regular mixture should be kneaded separately, it is only important that its density is the same.
On average, molds with concrete should be left on the vibrating table for 4-5 minutes. After the end of the vibration, they must be placed on flat surface. Hardened paving slabs should not be exposed to direct sun rays. It takes up to three days to completely solidify, given the presence of a plasticizer.
Video on pouring forms of paving slabs on a personal plot:
Stripping and storage of paving slabs
In order not to damage the mold during molding, you need to heat it up by dipping it in water at 50-70 degrees Celsius, then it is enough to knock rubber mallet so that you can easily "shake out" the finished product. After demoulding, the molds are ready for a new production cycle.
Ready paving slabs must be kept for up to three weeks on a flat surface and also in the shade, for further hardening and gaining strength. You need to lay it for storage “face to face”, if there are several rows, covering each with shrink wrap. During this time, the tile will dry out sufficiently and acquire the strength necessary for use.
The given manufacturing technology is applicable not only for paving slabs, it is possible to organize the production of curbs in a similar way. .
The use of paving slabs
Since paving slabs are a universal material, they can be used almost anywhere. Playgrounds, car parks, pedestrian streets, park areas, bike paths, private land ownership - this is just the main list of destinations, which can be easily expanded. Paving slabs decorate flower beds, fountains, garden ponds, decorative fences and fences, porch and terraces, stair steps.
Laying this cover allows the soil underneath to “breathe”, as it allows air and water to pass through, and does not contain toxins, although it hinders plant growth. But the soil still retains its properties, unlike soil under solid concrete or asphalt.
Paving slabs can withstand heavy structures, moisture and extreme weather conditions do not destroy it. These properties are due to the fact that its composition is close to that of concrete structures used in construction in supports and ceilings of buildings. It's durable and durable material, little affected by climate and aggressive urban environment.
A few examples of the use of paving slabs in your suburban area
Pleasure is not cheap, but everyone wants to make their yard clean and pretty, so I had such a great desire.
Buy paving stones required quantity I couldn’t - it turned out to be too expensive, but it’s easy to do it on my own :) It’s about how to make paving stones on my own, I will tell you in this article, fully illustrating the manufacturing process.
Required materials and fixtures
The technology for the production of paving stones, as well as its recipe, was found by me on the Internet, since there is more than enough information, and I set to work.For the manufacture of such paving slabs, it is necessary to buy a superplasticizer and, if desired, a dye.
In the store, I bought several bags of 500 grade cement and a superplasticizer: it will increase the strength of the paving stones and increase its resistance to low temperatures. 
Not a huge, of course, but quite a decent pile of sand, brought about a year ago from a local quarry, we left after the completion of the house.
And I decided not to buy a colorant-dye. To be honest, as for me, the difference between colored and gray paving stones is small, the color still turns out with a shade of gray!
As a vibrating table, without which the production of high-quality paving stones is simply impossible, it was decided to use the old washing machine Siemens, which has long served its time, but is still very much in working order. If anyone does not know what a vibrating table is for, I explain - with its help, the maximum compaction of the forms of any concrete elements is achieved, in our case paving stones, which become more homogeneous and, accordingly, strong.
I will tell you about the forms separately and in more detail :)
About forms for self-production of paving stones
When I shared the idea of making paving stones on my own with my friends, some of them suggested that I make the molds myself. Some offered to put them together from old boards, the second advised to use unnecessary containers - trays, vessels, and so on, and others persuaded them to be made from a special polymer. Of course, I am a girl with “hands”, but I did not dare to do this, I decided to purchase ready-made forms. They are quite diverse, so you can choose the shape with beautiful pattern, which will be imprinted on the surface of the finished product, giving it a special charm and chic.To make paving stones with your own hands or not, everyone decides for himself, and I can only say that it is exciting, easy and profitable. I hope my little master class on making paving stones will be useful for you, try it and brag about your results!
equipping garden paths on his personal plot, each owner of the territory thinks about creating beautiful and functional elements of landscape design. Excellent materials for the manufacture of paving slabs at home can be:
- a rock;
- saw cuts of trunks;
- gravel.
But the most common solution for your site as a coating for paths and playgrounds is ordinary paving slabs. It is known to have excellent performance, attractive appearance and is ready to serve for quite a long time under favorable conditions. If you make such elements for the design of the site yourself, then they will be combined with the style of the garden and home.
Selection of materials and preparation of tools
Before you start making paving slabs at home, photos of such elements should definitely be considered. So you can determine for yourself what kind this part should have. personal plot. The composition of such a tile usually includes:
- sand;
- cement;
- water.
The ingredients are combined in a certain proportion, which depends on the brand of cement used and the purpose of the products. For durable tiles, it is recommended to use It is not recommended to save on quality, so as not to stumble on a crumbling path during operation. Water and sand must be free of leaves and foreign matter. But fine-grained stones may be present in the sand. From this, the quality of concrete will not deteriorate. As a result, the product will only acquire a more pronounced texture.
When making at home, the instruction provides for the use of a plasticizer. You can increase the strength of products and ensure their resistance to temperature extremes. For pouring, plastic molds are usually used. They are for sale in a wide range. They may have different sizes and forms. Each form is usually designed for about 200 fills.
To speed up the manufacturing process, you should purchase several pieces. To reduce the budget, you can use plastic containers for food products. Such a container has sufficient flexibility, strength and softness. Containers of uncomplicated shapes allow the production of rectangular bricks.
Solution preparation
Before you start making paving slabs at home, step by step instructions needs to be studied. After reviewing it, you can find out that the mixing of the sand-cement mixture can be carried out manually, and you can get the job done faster with a puncher with a nozzle in the form of a mixer. When planning the amount of work to be done, you may want to consider using a concrete mixer. If it is in the owner's arsenal, you can further save time and effort. Such equipment has found its application in solving many problems. For example, when repairing fence posts or concreting a stream bed in your own garden.
The manufacture of paving slabs at home is accompanied by mixing the mortar. Sand is poured first, and then cement. It is not necessary to stop the rotation of the container. Liquid is added gradually. In this case, the solution must be constantly mixed. You should not be zealous with the amount of water, because the mortar may lose strength in this case, which will manifest itself in the finished concrete. To eliminate such a nuisance, water-repellent additives should be added to the solution at the mixing stage, and reinforcing fiber is used to increase strength.
In the manufacture of paving slabs at home, you can give the products the most different colors. For this, pigments are usually used that have increased resistance to atmospheric phenomena and ultraviolet. The mass with their presence in the composition also becomes resistant to an alkaline environment. You can determine the amount of dye added by the sample method. You need to start with 30 g, increasing the proportions. The mixture will acquire a uniform color after 7 minutes. Is the composition ready? This can be determined by the absence of lumps and the uniform distribution of the pigment throughout the volume of the material.
The composition and proportions of the solution
Before starting work, it is important to determine the composition and proportions of the components. Only then will you be able to get tiles with high operational characteristics. It must contain:
- sand;
- plasticizer;
- cement;
- crushed stone;
- water.
Optionally, you can add not only pigments, but also a dispersant. Their presence suggests a change in proportions. At home, 23% cement, 57% crushed stone and 20% sand should be added to the composition at home. As for the plasticizer, it should be added in the amount of 0.5% by weight of cement.
Having determined the amount of dry ingredients, you must add water in a volume of 40% of their mass. If you want to use a pigment, then 700 ml should be added per 1 m 2. As mentioned above, a dispersant can be added to the composition in the manufacture of paving slabs at home, its volume will be 90 g per 1 m 2.
Distribute dry ingredients separately. total weight water is taken into account depending on the proportion of dry ingredients. When using a pigment and a dispersant, they should be added by dilution in a liquid. So, to obtain a square meter of frost-resistant tiles, the thickness of which will be 4.5 cm, you need 22 kg of cement, crushed stone in a volume of 54 kg, 19 kg of sand, 110 grams of plasticizer and 9 liters of water.
Sand with cement and plasticizer are mixed in the first stage. Then crushed stone should be added, and at the very end - liquid. However, pour it into in full not worth it right away. It should be added in small amounts. The consistency of the solution should be dense, the mixture should hold on to the trowel, but not crumble. When tapped on the form, the composition should spread well. Mixing is recommended in a concrete mixer, but a great alternative for small jobs is construction mixer. Some even manage with a trowel, but manipulations in this case take more time.
Learn more about the proportional ratio of ingredients
It is especially important to observe the proportions in the manufacture of paving slabs at home if an impressive effect is exerted on the surface. Using the standard ingredients (water, cement and gravel), you should use the next proportion: 1:2:2. For 50 kg of M-500 cement, about 20 liters will be required fresh water, which is approximately 2 buckets. The plasticizer is added to a small amount of liquid, and then the mixture is combined with the main composition and mixed well. At the next stage, crushed granite can be poured into the concrete mixer in the amount of three buckets. Everything is mixed with water.
You can reduce the risk of cracks in the finished product and increase its strength by adding granite screenings. In the next step, you can add a bag of cement, which is 50 kg or three buckets. The composition is well mixed after adding each portion. The next step is to add another bucket crushed granite. Then four buckets are added to the concrete mixer river sand. Mix well after each serving. If required, you can add a little water.
Now comes the last bucket of rubble. The whole process of mixing the mixture will take no more than 10 minutes. The proportions mentioned above will allow you to get a thick solution High Quality. After mixing the components, it is poured into molds, the contents are compacted with a mallet. Forms should be shaken a little, which will provide a denser shrinkage. After 2 days, the tile can be removed.
Features of pouring into forms
Before pouring, the inner surface of the molds is lubricated with any oil, even used machine oil can be used. In the future, this will make it easier to disassemble the products. You can increase their strength by putting in concrete form half filled, metal mesh. Instead, you can use wire or rod.
Then the remaining solution is poured to the brim. For vibration, you can use a vibrating table. If there is no such design, it can serve as a shelf or rack. You should perform several taps on the table.
Drying stage
When making paving slabs at home, the next step will be to free the finished products from the molds. Before that, they are aged for three days, but they are first covered with plastic wrap. At this time, you need to support required level humidity.
Hardening products must be moistened periodically. After 3 days, you can unmould by moving the sides and shaking. Products are dried for about 4 more days. At this time, the tile will gain a given strength. It can be used as a covering for playgrounds and garden paths.
mold making
In the manufacture of molds, many materials are used, among them:
- wood;
- gypsum;
- polyurethane;
- plastic;
- silicone.
With the help of them you can create the most simple or complex shapes with a specific texture. special attention deserve polyurethane models that reflect the template in great detail. Products can be round or rectangular. Making molds for paving slabs at home is most often done from wood. This method is one of the available and simple. In this case, a formwork type design is used.
As a basis, you can take not only wood, but also moisture-resistant plywood. For this, strips of small thickness are used. They are cut into pieces and connected with nails. It is better to leave the free movement of the fasteners so that when the composition dries, the strips can be removed individually. Such molds are suitable for the manufacture of the simplest elements in a standard configuration.
When making paving slabs at home with your own hands, you can use plastic, which will form the basis of the forms. This option is one of the budget. For these purposes, you can use containers of 5 liters. They are cut in height, which allows you to get troughs. You can use other types of plastic molds. They are made from containers and waste packages.
The use of plaster
Quite a popular material is gypsum. With it, you can transfer any template to the material. For casting the product, you must use gypsum mixture and an example of a cladding piece you would like to produce at home. The tile is treated with grease to prevent sticking of the mixture. The element is placed inside the formwork, for which limiters and wood can be used.
Gypsum should be diluted before pouring to prevent it from setting. To increase strength, cement or a plasticizer can be added. The liquid mass is poured inside so that it covers the sample with a margin of 2 cm. The solution hardens quickly, but it is necessary to wait a day for complete hardening. When you remove it from the workpiece, you will have a shape that reflects the design of the product.
Profitability of the tile business
Quite a few start-up entrepreneurs are interested in the issue of payback in the manufacture of paving slabs at home. If you carry out work on your own territory, then the cost of rent does not need to be taken into account, as well as the cost of wages to workers, because you can handle the process yourself. But the cost of electricity and water supply must be taken into account. The cost of one cubic meter concrete is also important.
The example considers a material from which you can get 16 m 2 of tiles. Including delivery, the cost of raw materials is 110 rubles. Electricity will cost 1.3 rubles. Taxes are 1.2 rubles. These data are correct for the manufacture of one square meter of tiles. The cost of manufacturing paving slabs at home will eventually amount to 125 rubles. per square meter.
Tile manufacturing options
Paving slabs are most often based on a cement-sand mixture. But there are several other options, one of which you can use to home production. For example, a little large quantity sand is added to the composition to prevent leaching of the dye. But in this case, the products are less durable. Sometimes this is not so important if only a foot load is planned to be applied to the surface.
Such a coating can be made layered, additionally reinforced with chopped fiberglass or geotextiles. Considering the options for making paving slabs at home, you can refuse reinforcement. If you have a vibrating table available with vibration damping in unnecessary directions, then you can perform the “puff” yourself. In this case, the goal is to save the amount of pigment. It is added to the top layer.
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Paths on a personal or garden plot, paved with paving slabs, are functional and aesthetic. Paving stone pavement is strong, durable, easy to maintain and attractive. But the cost of such coverage, if we are talking about buying several dozen square meters tiles are significant. Therefore, craftsmen, in order to save money, using technologies available for home conditions, have been successfully making paving slabs with their own hands for several years.
The quality of paving slabs depends on compliance with the technology and the correct formulation.
Technology Choice
There are two ways to produce paving slabs:
- vibrocompression;
- vibrocasting.
The first method for the production of tiles at home is not suitable by definition - there is nothing to press with. And making good-quality paving stones with your own hands by vibrocasting is quite real.
Manufacturers offer the following types molds for the production of paving stones:
- polyurethane - allow up to 100 molding revolutions;
- from plastic - up to 250 revolutions;
- from plastic rubber - more than 500 cycles.
The price of products depends on the number of molding cycles, so the high cost of rubber and plastic mold involves their use in the production of large volumes of tiles, and polyurethane products are quite affordable for the average buyer. Having bought 5 molds, you can make 500 pieces of paving slabs with your own hands, and with careful handling it is possible to make more.
Tile molds
Forming templates for the production of paving stones
For casting paving slabs “in place”, template molds are used in the form of a frame made of partitions, resembling irregularly shaped honeycombs, which you can buy or make yourself. Having laid such a frame on a properly prepared base, the honeycombs are filled with concrete. After a few hours, the template is removed, and instead of honeycombs, ready-made flat concrete fragments remain on the base, between which only the joints need to be arranged.
In addition, if paving is planned to be laid, for example, on auxiliary paths garden plot, and the requirements for it are low, then the molds for casting such tiles can be made by hand.
For the manufacture of paving stones, first of all, you need to stock up on special molds for casting.
Independent production of molds for casting
Paving slabs with their own hands.
The universal format of paving slabs is a square with a side of 30 cm. This size provides the necessary strength when working on bending and is convenient for cutting the product in half or into 4 parts when you need to adjust the material. Therefore, from smoothly planed wooden bars with a section of 60 x 30 mm, you need to make a frame with your own hands. internal dimensions 30 x 30 cm and 60 mm deep. It is better to assemble the frame on self-tapping screws, which later, when removed frozen product it will be easy to unscrew and then put back into place.
To form a pattern on the front side of the future paving slab, an elastic base with a corrugated surface is chosen, for example, a rubber mat with large pattern, and lay the frame of the form on it.
Before forming the side of the frame and the figured base with a brush, smear with a thin layer of kitchen gel for washing dishes.
So that the process of making tiles with your own hands does not drag on for months or years, you need to make at least 10 forms.
Making paving slabs with your own hands is a rather laborious process.
As forms for paving slabs of small format, you can use disposable plastic containers for packaging various products, filling them with a solution to a fixed depth. The turnover of such "forms" is 5-10 cycles, but this is offset by the negligible cost of used boxes.
Manufacturing technology of paving slabs by vibrocasting
This method consists in pouring a cement-based mortar special forms with simultaneous or subsequent compaction of the contents by vibration.
Vibrocasting can be produced using single-layer and two-layer technology.
single layer method
The single-layer technology consists in filling the molds with a solution, compacting on a vibrating table, followed by holding the products in the molds for two days and demoulding. The strength and aesthetics of such a tile is lower than that of a two-layer paving stone made by vibrocasting, therefore it is used for paving utility areas that do not require high aesthetics.
Making vibropressed paving slabs is easier than making vibrocast
Double-layer vibrocasting
In case of two-layer pouring, a solution is poured into the molds with coloring pigment 1-2 cm layer with simultaneous vibration. On top of the colored solution, without waiting for the setting of the front layer, flush with the edges of the forms, the composition of the main layer without dye is poured and vibrated for 15-30 seconds. After 2 days, the products are removed from the molds and stored for drying in a cool place.
Regardless of the number of layers, molds filled with mortar cover polyethylene film to prevent premature evaporation of moisture and partial loss of paving stone strength.
The purpose of the front layer is to increase the strength characteristics and aesthetics of paving slabs. This layer is a durable shell with a glossy surface, dyed in the selected color by adding a dye to the solution. If, instead of gray cement M500, white cement of the same brand is used, then the colored front layer can be made saturated, without a gray tint.
Do-it-yourself preparation of a mortar for paving stones is economical option
Facing concrete components
To make the front layer durable, uniform and glossy, the following materials should be included in the composition of the solution:
- cement M500 (preferably white);
- crushed stone (granite, marble, gravel) fraction 5-10 mm;
- sifted sand in the ratio;
- water;
- color;
- dispersant.
Recipe of concrete for the formation of the front layer
When performing kneading on the front layer, the weight ratio of the amount of cement and SCHPS is 1:2.
Using the example of a specific operation, we will consider the procedure for mixing the solution of the front layer in a concrete mixer. 10 liters of water are poured into the mixer, into which, in the case of the production of colored paving stones, a dye is preliminarily added. Then pour in 750 grams aqueous solution dispersant, turn on the concrete mixer and successively pour 3 buckets of SCHPS and Portland cement M500. After a minute of mixing, 3 more buckets of screenings are added to the concrete mixer.
Mixing concrete in a concrete mixer is carried out in a certain sequence
Mixing is carried out for 15-20 minutes until the solution acquires a homogeneous consistency of thick sour cream, after which the mass is transferred from the concrete mixer to the tub, and molding can be done.
The amount of color in the solution should be no more than 5% of the batch volume. The proportion used must be remembered in case you need to make an additional batch.
Formation of the front layer of the tile in the form
After lubricating the inner surface of the molds, the prepared solution is laid out in them with a layer of 1-2 cm and compacted by vibration. In the absence of a vibrating table, you can get by with the installation of molded products on a sheet of iron and tapping from below with a rubber mallet. Particularly savvy craftsmen use a washing machine to vibrate, on which forms are placed when the centrifuge is operating in the spin mode.
The main difference between paving stones and paving slabs lies in its shape.
Components of the base layer solution
In the formulation of the solution forming the main layer, the dispersant is replaced by a plasticizer. In the process of preparing the mortar, one part of the M500 brand cement is mixed with three parts of the crushed stone-sand mixture. The plasticizer is added in the same amount as the dispersant to the face layer.
How to mix concrete for pouring the base layer
Consider the technology for the production of a specific portion of the solution using a concrete mixer.
750 grams of an aqueous solution of a plasticizer are mixed in 12 liters of water, after which 5 buckets of SCHPS and 3 buckets of Portland cement M500 are sequentially poured into a working mixer with liquid, after which another 3-4 buckets of screenings are added. There is no need to color the main material of paving slabs. The concrete is mixed for about a quarter of an hour and, upon reaching the consistency of sour cream, is unloaded into a tub.
To knead concrete at home per 1 sq. paving stones 6 cm thick, you will need:
- Crushed stone-sand mixture - 90 kg;
- Cement M500 - 25 kg;
- Dispersant - 120 grams;
- Plasticizer - 100 grams;
- Dye - 600-800 grams.
Reinforcing paving stones and pouring the base layer
To increase the strength of the tile, you can do the reinforcement of the product with your own hands. As a reinforcement, a cut-to-size “notch” (expanded sheet steel) made of steel sheet 1 or 2 mm thick. The cut pieces are laid on top of the mortar of the face layer of the tile and covered with concrete flush with the edges of the forms. Reinforcement of products at home can also be done using pieces of thick wire or smooth rolled reinforcement, steel mesh laid crosswise.
To ensure the solidity of the tile, the filling of the second layer is carried out no later than 20 minutes after the formation of the first.
After the mortar is compacted by vibration, the molds are placed on a horizontal surface in a cool place for two days until the concrete hardens.
Modern paving slabs are suitable for arranging urban or country yards
Stripping molds and removing tiles
If the form is made by hand from wooden bars, then the fixing screws are unscrewed in one of the joints, after which the frame is moved apart, and the product is released. Paving stones are given another 10 days to gain strength and dry, laying the tiles in one layer in a cool room.
If polyurethane molds were used for the production of tiles, then the mold with the product is placed in a bath of warm (60 degrees) water for a couple of minutes to soften the polymer, after which the tile is removed and also placed in a cool place for 10 days until final readiness for use.
Taking into account that the tile must be in the form for two days, it is possible, having 10 forms at its disposal, to extract 5 finished products daily and make 5 regular moldings.
- Homemade tiles from Kostya9
- Homemade vibrating table and homemade tiles from Commander
Homemade tiles from Kostya9
Kostya9 Member of FORUMHOUSE
To implement the idea, specialized network resources were studied on the topic of forms and the portal forum, on the topic of the process itself - necessary equipment, raw material base, production technology. As it turned out, plastic and other forms are available, whatever you want, the main materials were left over from the construction site, and the existing units require a relatively simple, feasible refinement. Unforeseen complications arose only with the purchase of the five hundredth cement - due to the low demand from local merchants, it simply was not there, so I had to go to a neighboring town.
Manufacturing
To make the tile as strong as possible, it was redone under the vibrating table a circular saw – working surface replaced by a heavy plate (with springs from nine racks), under the plate - a vibration motor. Typical concrete mixer for mixing mortar, ready-made polymer molds, with imitation of sandstone surface, for drying - old refrigerator placed sideways.
The ratio of the proportions of concrete was also selected on the forum.
In addition to the existing screenings, washed river sand and purchased cement of the desired brand, a plasticizer was required for the tiles, the choice fell on SP-1. This is a universal additive that improves the characteristics of the solution, its use increases mechanical strength concrete, reduces the number of pores on the surface, gives smoothness and improves vibrating efficiency. Although I dreamed of colored tiles, the cost of the dye and white cement, to receive rich color, forced to do with a natural, gray tint.
The batch proportions are as follows:
- Screenings (crushed stone fraction 0-5) - 38 kg (three ten-liter buckets);
- Sand (river, washed) - 18 kg (one ten-liter bucket);
- Cement (M-500) - 17 kg (fourteen liter bucket);
- Plasticizer - 80 grams per batch (diluted with a liter warm water);
- Water - 8.5 liters (if the weather is hot, another 0.7 liters).
Mixing technology:
- Screenings (all) are put into the concrete mixer first;
- Water pours in;
- Added plasticizer;
- The mixture is thoroughly mixed;
- Added cement;
- Thorough mixing again;
- Added sand;
- Last mixing (if necessary, water is added).
The consistency of the solution is quite thick, reminiscent of wet earth - this is a conscious choice, although many prefer to work with more fluid solutions.
Kostya9
liquid concrete that liquid mud – no strength.
Forms previously lubricated with engine oil (in the corners, with a brush) are placed on a vibrating table. Filling with a solution should be uniform.
Processing time - from three to seven minutes. Vibration should not only compact the mixture, but also expel air bubbles from it. In the process of processing, the forms are interchanged and rotated around their axis - so that the impact is uniform. As it shrinks, the mortar is added until the mold is completely filled, you can slam it with your hand to ensure that there are no voids left. From the vibrating table, the forms are sent for more than a day (25-30 hours) to the dryer. On the advice of the participants in the branch, the old refrigerator, aka drying chamber, was turned from the side, to the “back”, this greatly simplified the process of laying and removing the product.
After this period finished tile easily comes out of the mold due to lubrication, and thanks to ongoing hydration processes that keep the raw material hot. If you overexpose the tile and it cools down, it will be more difficult to get it out of the plastic - you will have to pour boiling water over it so that the plastic expands. However, if you overdo it not for a couple of hours, but for a couple of days, and it has time to completely cool down, it will be difficult to take it out, even using boiling water.
Having stuffed his hand on a square tile, the craftsman moved on to figured tiles and decided to use chromium oxide as a dye.
The first test of adding the dye according to the norm, at the rate of 1% of the binder (170 grams per batch), practically did not give a result. It was not a color that appeared, but a light, almost imperceptible shade, so the dosage was doubled, which gave the desired green. Like a plasticizer, the dye was previously diluted in water.
Homemade tiles from Commander
Commander Member of FORUMHOUSE
He covered both the barn and the yard with tiles of his own manufacture, paths to the greenhouses too. Very good and profitable!
And in this case, a homemade vibrating table was used. Here's the "recipe" for anyone interested:
- Motor - from washing machine(on rubber shock absorbers);
- From her - a pulley for a belt drive from the engine to the eccentric;
- Eccentric - the former rotor of the electric motor: cut off by a grinder 1/3, a cage for bearings is machined, holders are welded, the whole structure is screwed to an iron sheet;
- Over the sheet / table - wood flooring 60x60 cm (for tiles 50x50 cm);
- High sides - so that you can make tiles 6 cm thick.
For household purposes - paths to the barn, in the garage, along the edges, the Commander makes a big, square tiles 50x50 cm in size, and for decorative paths resembling sidewalks - figured. The forms, as in the first version, are polymeric, soft - unlike hard plastic ones, they do not break for several years.
The composition of the solution and the proportions for batching:
- Gravel - a bucket;
- Cement - a bucket;
- Screening - 3 buckets;
- Plasticizer - 2/3 cup;
- Water.
Water is poured into a working mixer, a plasticizer is added, gravel is next, after gravel is wetted, cement is added. When the mixture becomes homogeneous, screenings are added. The commander does not add sand, as in the screenings a large number of dust that replaces it and prevents the formation of voids. Forms before use are lubricated with palm oil, as they become dirty, they are easily washed with Karcher. But they become contaminated if the technology is violated and the tiles do not withstand the prescribed day, so it is better not to rush.
