How to build a brick fireplace? How to lay out a fireplace with your own hands How to build a fireplace with your own hands drawings

If all recommendations are strictly followed during the installation of the fireplace stove, then the design will work well, reliably, and will last a long time. A well-built fireplace must meet three principles: warm the room well, operate without smoke and in compliance with safety regulations, and blend harmoniously with the interior. Let's see how we can achieve this.

What is this article about?

Project selection

The first stage of work is choosing a project. First of all, you need to decide on the shape and size of the fireplace. Even experienced craftsmen they use routines in their work - essentially drawings with step-by-step instructions, which indicate the number of rows and the location of each brick in them. Moreover, the use of such a masonry scheme is very convenient for non-professionals doing the work with their own hands. Also, ordering allows you to accurately calculate how many bricks are needed, and therefore determine financial costs.

If laying a fireplace is being done for the first time, you must strictly adhere to the order. To avoid mistakes, mark each installed brick on the drawing.

We have prepared several orders of brick fireplaces, of different sizes and designs. We invite you to choose the right one

Project order corner fireplace Arrangement of a fireplace 4.5 by 2.5 bricks Arrangement of a fireplace 3.5 by 3 bricks Arrangement of a large fireplace 5 by 3 bricks

To increase the efficiency of the fireplace, it is necessary separately. The chimney has many aspects, without which the fireplace can be not only ineffective, but also dangerous.

Choosing an installation location

The purpose of a fireplace is to create warmth, comfort, and also successfully complement the interior. Traditionally, brick structures decorate the living room. But in big houses there may be several of them: in office, bedroom, dining room, library. It is advisable to decide on the location of the fireplace at the design stage of the house. Also, in terms of placing the fireplace, it is necessary to take into account the arrangement of furniture.

The structure should be located away from doorways and windows to avoid drafts that interfere with fireplace operation. To make the fire clearly visible, the portal of the structure should be turned towards the center of the room. The fireplace can be installed in the center, against the wall, in the corner or built into the wall.

Most common option - corner fireplace. It benefits from compactness because it takes up less space and creates a “red corner”. Often brick structures placed against the wall. With the help of a central fireplace, you can visually divide a large room into two zones.

A good place to install a fireplace with a chimney is the central part of the house. In this case, the pipe is closer to the ridge and there is no feeling that it is too long.

Interior items: carpets, armchairs, cabinets must be placed at least 1 meter from the fireplace.

Construction

Nuances of choosing a brick

Material for fireplaces, as well as for any stoves, must have certain technical qualities:

heat resistance;
ability to accumulate and store heat well;
mechanical strength;
resistance to temperature fluctuations.

For masonry external elements fireplace and chimneys use simple ceramic (red, clay) brick, for the construction of the firebox - fireproof (fireclay). In case it is not expected additional finishing, the outer layer not in contact with the fire can be made of facing clinker bricks.

Foundation

The first stage of the actual construction of the fireplace is. A hole is dug up to 60 cm deep and an area 10 cm larger than the size of the foundation. The bottom of the pit is covered with a 15-centimeter layer of crushed stone. It gets compacted. Then install wooden formwork, the interior is treated with bitumen. Next is a layer of stone, broken brick and crushed stone, which is filled with a well-mixed solution in a 1:3 ratio of cement and sand. The foundation is leveled, horizontal control is done, and covered with film or roofing felt. Let it sit for a week.

The area of the foundation must exceed the dimensions of the fireplace base by 6 cm.

The foundation is leveled, horizontal control is done, and it is closed. waterproofing material- film or roofing felt. In this form, it should dry for at least a week. If the masonry is laid, the foundation remains closed until the next stage begins.

Solution

Can be used as a ready-made composition purchased in hardware store so cook it yourself. If this is your first experience, the site recommends using a ready-made baking solution and following the instructions on the package.

To prepare your solution, a couple of days before starting to lay the fireplace, you need to mix the clay with water, the consistency of which should not be too thick. This solution is mixed with washed and dried sand. The subsequent quality of the masonry depends on the quality of the prepared mixture.

Portland cement (30% of the bulk) must be added to the mortar for laying the first row.

Masonry

When making masonry, it is necessary to strictly follow the order, so it should be at hand. Each row of the planned structure should be checked for accuracy of work and preservation of straight lines, making a mark in the project so as not to get confused in the rows and avoid mistakes.

For laying continuous rows, a trowel or trowel is used. But when laying the firebox and smoke collector, it is better to give preference to manual work.

The solution is laid out in the middle of the brick in such an amount that it is evenly distributed along the length and does not extend beyond the edges. Excess solution is removed.

Before laying the curved part of the fireplace, a circle is installed. Thanks to temporary formwork, the masonry will be done beautifully and with high quality.

When installing the chimney, verticality should be constantly checked. The quality of chimney installation contributes to good draft and release of carbon monoxide from the room.

The inside walls of the chimney are wiped with a cloth dipped in liquid clay, creating an ideal surface.

Creating the look of a fireplace

Finishing a fireplace is a delicate and responsible matter. Most often for decorative finishing choose:

facing bricks;
ceramic tiles;
natural stone;
patterned or smooth tiles.

Facing bricks are produced in both traditional shapes and angular or wedge-shaped, with rounded edges, etc. The color of the products can be selected based on preferences and general color range rooms, the most varied: white, yellow, red, brown and even black.

Tiles for cladding are available in several types. You can choose majolica (pressed products with a pattern, covered with glaze), terracotta (ceramic unglazed material), clinker tiles or porcelain stoneware.

Natural stone can help create a rugged finish that pairs well with modern interiors.

These materials have good thermal conductivity, presentability, strength, durability, and resistance to high temperatures.

You can do without additional cladding of the fireplace, provided that the brick is chosen and the masonry is done perfectly. In this case, carefully grout the joints with white mortar.

We have selected a number of photographs to demonstrate what a completed and properly finished fireplace might look like.

Preparation for use

Having completed all the work, you should not immediately use the fireplace for its intended purpose. You need to give the solution time to dry thoroughly. A few days are enough for this.

You can check the quality of the draft using soft paper that is set on fire - it should burn well and the smoke should go up the chimney. If there is a draft, the fireplace is ready, you can burn it with wood.

Throughout time, the main place in the house was given to the hearth. IN lately, fireplaces in houses and cottages have become very popular, and the question of how to build a fireplace with your own hands is quite relevant.

Any stove or fireplace must meet the following requirements:

No smoke.
Heating the room.
Beautiful appearance.

To achieve these goals, all stages of construction must be followed.

Location

The very first step involves choosing the location of the fireplace; not only saving living space, but also its efficient heating depends on this.

First you need to decide on the type of structure.

The fireplace stove can have the following design options:

Wall-mounted.
Angular.
Built-in.
Ostrovny.

Based on this, the home owner can choose suitable place for the fireplace.

When planning the location, it is necessary to take into account that it is not advisable to install a fireplace stove opposite a window, since the heat will escape out the window. In addition, it is necessary to strictly follow the rules fire safety, the fireplace is a source of heat, not fire.

Materials

Making fireplaces begins with the selection of materials. For construction we will need:

Red ceramic brick. Its quantity is calculated based on the prepared drawing, while all incomplete bricks must be taken into account as whole.
River sand. Be sure to sift and clear of dirt and debris. The grain size of the material should be within the normal range (0.2–1.5 mm).
Crushed stone for making a foundation. The acceptable fraction should be from 2 to 6 cm.
Blue Cambrian clay or regular red.
Cement (M 200 or M 300).
Smoke damper.
Fittings.

Brick and its varieties

Throughout the entire period of kiln construction, solid red brick, which is made from clay, is used.

This material is used to lay out the outer parts of fireplaces. Therefore, a lot depends on the quality of the brick.

The brick must have the following properties:

Have the correct form;
Contain no cracks or gouges.
Have no deformations;

The interior of the fireplace is lined with fireproof fireclay bricks or quartz material.

Material quality requirements

When purchasing a brick, you need to pay attention to the following parameters:

The material must correspond to a grade of at least M200.
The required quantity of bricks must be purchased from one batch.
The appearance of the brick - it should not contain cracks or chips.

Preparation

This stage consists of the process of preparing materials. Special attention, of course, is given to the brick, but in addition to it, other components will be needed.

You will need a clay mixture, which is thoroughly cleaned of unnecessary impurities and wiped. Before laying, this mixture is soaked for about 2–3 hours.

The sand that will participate in the solution must also be cleaned; it will be enough to sift it through a sieve with fine holes.

Having completed this, you can begin to prepare the solution, the proportion of which must be strictly observed. Based on the fat content of the clay, the ratio of sand and clay should look like 1:1 or 1:2.

The resulting solution should not spread on the surface of the brick, but at the same time slide off it with ease.

Pouring the foundation

To pour the foundation for the fireplace/stove, you will need the following materials and tools:

roulette;
Bulgarian;
welding machine;
hammer + nails;
board;
fittings;
cement (grade M400).

The first thing you need to do is formwork from edged boards. It must be securely installed and have a height of 8–10 cm. The reinforcing rod is laid in 19 cm increments, after which perpendicular rows of rods are laid. The joints of the rods must be secured by welding.

The solution must be poured in two stages. The first involves a layer of concrete of 4 cm, then it is necessary to lay the sheathing, after which the last layer is poured, the height of which should be about 6 cm.

In order for the poured foundation to finished form did not contain voids, the solution was plowed a little with a free rod.

After this, the foundation must be left alone. Its drying time can vary from 15 to 18 days, depending on the conditions.

Fireplace masonry

This process is quite simple; after reading the article, you will learn: how to build a fireplace yourself from brick? In order to carry out the masonry correctly, it is necessary to strictly follow the construction plan.

DIY fireplace

The laying is carried out according to the following scheme:

Several layers of waterproofing material are laid on top of the foundation base.
For the first row, cement is added to the mortar, and the bricks are laid on slats.
The third row has small nuances, namely the installation of two pins, which will be needed a little later for the fireplace grate.
In order to fold the fireplace-stove correctly, you must adhere to the diagram or drawing.
To maintain temperature conditions in future design, it is necessary to ensure that the outer brick wall of the fireplace does not come into contact with the firebox.
To remove excess solution from the walls of the firebox, its surface is cleaned with a damp cloth.
To improve the quality of heating, it is necessary to maintain a slight angle of inclination of the rear wall forward. The side walls are designed to be turned outward.
To avoid the possibility of fire, it is necessary to take precautions and protect the floor in front of the fireplace with a sheet of iron.

Folding the fireplace stove is half the battle; you need to make a smoke collector.

The principle of its laying is to lay out bricks with a gradual overlap. The portal-type holes inside are blocked using jumpers, which can be made in several ways:

arched,
wedge,
vaulted.

To correctly lay out the smoke collector, it is necessary to maintain its verticality. Once you have crossed the floor with the roof, you can begin building the roof pipe. This masonry is done on a cement-sand mixture.

By following these rules, you can easily design a stove or fireplace yourself. Now all that remains is to deal with the chimney.

Chimney

If the chimney structure is made of brick, it is necessary to consider a foundation or a steel frame for it, which will rest against the main foundation. The chimney itself is located on the outside of the firebox and wrapped in thermally insulated material. The top of the chimney is sheathed with a sheet of steel or aluminum.

Using ready-made pipe sections for the chimney, special clamps are used as fastenings, with the help of which the structure is fixed to the floors of buildings. This chimney option can do without a foundation.

Finishing work

In addition to the fact that the fireplace-stove can be decorated with a colored joint, the brick itself can possibly be repainted in a different color. For these purposes, tempera or gouache is used.

Decoration for corner option fireplace can be tiles or marble tiles, stone or decorative brick. If desired, you can simply plaster the surface or use other decorative elements.

The modern market offers large number elements for decoration, including wooden parts. For safety reasons, their use is not recommended.

The decoration is fastened using regular tile adhesive, and the decoration itself should start from the bottom of the fireplace, gradually rising.

If your fireplace or stove already contains marble parts, then it is recommended to cover them with cellophane to avoid scratches.

For the firebox, you can use fireclay bricks, and for cladding, choose a material of a different quality.

The chimney structure can be made not only of brick, but also of special modules in the form of a metal or ceramic pipe.

To reduce errors when building fireplaces, it is recommended to use ready-made drawings rather than developing them yourself.

When designing a fireplace, you can focus on built-in shelves or firewood racks, this will give the structure a more aesthetic appearance.

From the above material we can conclude that laying a fireplace is a fairly simple process. All you need is to follow all the instructions and recommendations, then the question is: how to build a fireplace? won't take you by surprise.

Video: How to make a brick fireplace with your own hands

The fireplace is an integral part of the living room for many, because it is a symbol strong family. Today there are several options for laying a brick fireplace. For novice masons, it would be a good idea to familiarize yourself with the most the easy way How to build a fireplace with your own hands from brick. A fireplace built in this way will ideally suit the interior of the building, will warm the room in which it is located, and will not smoke.

In addition to the fact that a fireplace is a wonderful and stylish decorative addition to any interior, it can serve as a device for additional heating of a room during the cold season.

Types of fireplace systems

There are three main types of fireplace systems. These are traditional wood burning systems, electric and, finally, gas.

No matter how technologically and conveniently they look in the eyes potential clients gas and electric fireplace systems, neither can compete with a wood fireplace.

In order for the fireplace to have the best heat-reflecting ability, the walls of the firebox should be made at a slight angle; the greater the angle, the hotter it is.

After all, it represents, although incredibly complex, but living heating system. The fire that sparkles from the oxygen entering the firebox and the crackling of the wood burning in it adds a drop of tenderness and a sea of romance to even the most ordinary evening. Therefore, if you want a fireplace or stove to warm not only your body, but also your soul, then you should start building a wood-burning fireplace with your own hands.

However, along with such obvious advantages, wood-burning options have a number of disadvantages. And the first of this list is that it cannot be installed in any room. Thus, the need to fold a chimney, which any stove should be equipped with, namely the stove is the progenitor of the fireplace, does not allow you to install a wood-burning fireplace system in the apartment yourself. The cost of a fireplace, if you do not make it yourself, will most likely scare you with its size, since good craftsmen, and these are the ones you need to hire if you want your structure to function normally for a long time, they don’t work for cheap. In this regard, the only saving option would be to fold it yourself.

Preparation of material

The brick is soaked in water for several minutes before use. This is necessary to achieve strong contact with the solution.

Must meet your wishes. During use, the fireplace or stove is exposed to very high temperatures, which not every material can withstand. So, for example, if an ordinary brick can cope with these loads, then a special mortar for its laying will be required. In this structure, almost the same process occurs as in sauna stove. Therefore, the composition of the brick laying mortar will include the following:

clay;
sand;
water.

Particular attention should be paid to the choice of clay, because both its composition and, accordingly, quality can be absolutely varied. And if one type of clay is quite suitable for making some small souvenir or sculpture, then it may be completely unsuitable for mortar. There are usually several types of clay: fatty, lean and normal. It is absolutely clear that normal clay is suitable. But it is almost impossible to find it in this form in nature in order to build a fireplace yourself, so you will need to mix either several types of clay or clay with sand.

Choosing clay for the kiln

If the foundation is poured with concrete, then it will be impossible to avoid the construction of formwork, since the foundation must rise 15 cm above the ground level.

Before you start mixing a large amount of solution at once, you need to make sure that it includes the correct ratio of all its ingredients. Therefore, first you will have to mix everything in miniature form. The resulting solution should be enough for you to fashion a couple of balls with a diameter of 5-7 cm.

One of the most common and easy ways to determine whether you have mixed all the necessary ingredients correctly is to simply sculpt a ball, which should be thrown onto the floor immediately after rolling. If the ball falls apart quickly, it means you added too much sand to the solution. If the ball remains practically unchanged, this means that the clay used in the solution is normal. And if the ball is crumpled into a cake, this means that the clay is oily. In this case, it will need to be “diluted” with sand.

Although this option is very simple, it cannot always give correct description clay, since it is quite difficult to determine whether it is oily or normal. Therefore, another method will be the most truthful. Its beginning is exactly the same as in the previous version. But now 2 balls are molded. The first one is left the same, and the second one is pressed into a cake. The molded objects are left in normal conditions for several days to dry. After you have not approached them for 2-3 days, they will probably have dried out and you can evaluate how correctly you calculated everything. First we look at how the flatbread has changed. If cracks have formed on it, this again means that there is excess sand in the clay. If there are no cracks, then most likely the clay is normal. But the same effect is observed in the case when the clay is thin. Therefore, now you need to move on to the sculpted ball. It should be thrown on the brick floor. If the ball crumbles, it means the clay is thin. If it remains the same, then she is normal.

Fireplace and stove laying

First, select the area of the room where the indoor stove will be located. The best place would be around end walls rooms. No less beautiful, but very difficult to implement, would be installing a fireplace in one of the corners of the room.

A fireplace placed opposite a door or window is considered a bad decision, since a draft can extinguish or, conversely, ignite the fire in the fireplace even more strongly.

Drawing and diagram

A correctly drawn up masonry scheme is half the success, because... it reflects all stages of work, which helps to avoid irreparable mistakes.

Before folding, you need to take several measurements and, of course, draw a fireplace design. With its help, brickwork will be simpler. If you are in a room with an area of 15 or more square meters, then it would be correct to make the back wall of the firebox in half a brick. In this case, the side walls are laid out to the full width of the brick. Let's start ordering.

The first six rows will serve as the base of the firebox, so they are laid out over the entire area of the fireplace being created. The bricks in this base are laid flat. And starting from the seventh row, at a height of more than thirty centimeters, the masonry is carried out in half a brick from the back and from the front of the fireplace, and we lay out the side walls in a whole brick.

Construction materials

Before laying, the bricks are soaked in water for 2–3 minutes to ensure closer contact with the mortar.

In order to build a fireplace or stove, you need following materials and tools:

red brick;
sand;
clay;
cement;
crushed stone;
smoke dampers;
fittings;
trowel;
shovel;
building level;
lace.

Laying the foundation

The depth of the foundation pit for the fireplace depends on the number of floors of the cottage: for one-story house– 50-60 cm, for a two-story building – at least 80 cm.

Before you start laying rows of bricks, you need to lay a foundation for the masonry. In the case of a fireplace, the foundation will need to be made separate from the foundation of the house itself, even if you lay them at the same time. The width of the foundation should be 5 cm greater than the width of the planned fireplace.

The foundation involves digging a pit, the depth of which must be at least 60 cm. It is either laid out of stone or filled with concrete. But before this, a 15 cm layer of coarse crushed stone or gravel must be poured onto the bottom of the recess, which is compacted into mandatory. If your foundation is poured with concrete, then it will be impossible to avoid the construction of formwork, since the foundation must rise 15 cm above the ground level.

To create concrete mortar you need to mix one part of cement with three parts of dry sand, after which water is added, with which everything is mixed again, preferably in a concrete mixer. The solution should not be too thick, since it needs to be poured into the dug pit quite well. To make it easier to understand exactly what the mixed solution should be, remember the consistency of liquid sour cream. The resulting concrete should be the same. After the foundation is poured, you need to let it stand for at least two days. In order for all the moisture to come out of it, which in the future should not get directly into the body of the fireplace.

Want to build your own stove or fireplace?

At first glance, this task seems too difficult, especially if you have no experience brickwork. In fact, many home owners successfully build fireplace stoves with their own hands, the drawings and diagrams of which we would like to bring to your attention. Using them, as well as recommendations for masonry, you can gain the necessary skills and save on paying professionals.

Do-it-yourself fireplace stove drawings and stove assembly

The first thing you should understand is the concepts of sketch, drawing and arrangement of the fireplace. A sketch is a drawing that shows the appearance of a stove or fireplace, in whole or in part, in one or more forms. From the sketch you can understand the location of the firebox, ash pan, chimney, dampers and other elements, as well as the principle of operation of the stove.

The drawing is made to scale; the dimensions of the future stove are indicated on it, usually approximately, since the exact dimensions strongly depend on the thickness of the seam. An ordering diagram is a diagram of the laying of each row of a fireplace or stove, indicating the row number, location and type of brick, doors, dampers, supporting elements. If the rows are repeated, the fragments of the diagram are combined into one, indicating all the rows of the same type.

If you decide to learn how to build fireplace stoves with your own hands, the drawings will help you determine them overall dimensions, from the sketch you can figure out the purpose individual elements and direction of movement flue gases, and the ordering diagram will tell you how much brick is needed and how to lay it. Those who have already built fireplace stoves with their own hands do not always use drawings - from the diagram they can determine both the dimensions of the stove and the principle of its operation. Let's try to understand this fascinating matter using the example of a simple stove-fireplace.

Fireplace stove: masonry technology

This stove is a simple but reliable source of heat for the living room or country house.

The firebox is large, like a fireplace, but is closed with a glass door - this makes the stove safe and easy to use. An ash pan is located under the firebox to remove combustion products. The smoke channel is more complex than that of a traditional fireplace; hot smoke passing through it heats the walls of the stove well, so it has a greater heat capacity compared to conventional fireplaces.

For the fireplace stove, solid ceramic bricks are used in the amount of 620 pieces and fireclay - 100 pieces, fire-resistant masonry mortar based on clay "Mertel-28" - about 25 kg, clay-sand masonry mortar - 300 kg. In addition, doors are needed: for the firebox - a fireplace door with heat-resistant glass, size 50x48 cm, three cleaning doors 14x13 cm, as well as one ash door with dimensions 25x13 cm, and two dampers: 30x19 cm and 27.5x15.5 cm.

Refractory mortar is used for laying fireclay bricks, ceramic bricks are laid on ordinary clay-sand mortar. The solution is prepared according to the instructions on the package.

Fireplace stove arrangement diagram

The first two rows are the base, the so-called under the stove. In the third row they begin to lay out the smoke channel and install cleanout and blower doors.

In the fourth and fifth rows they continue laying the smoke channel, and in the sixth they begin to lay out the bottom of the firebox from fireclay bricks - in the diagram it is painted yellow. They continue to place the firebox made of fireclay bricks on refractory mortar and the walls on clay-sand in the seventh, eighth and ninth rows. A grate is installed between the firebox and the ash pan. Layout diagram of the first rows of the fireplace stove. The tenth to twelfth rows are laid in the same order, laying out a hole for the firebox in the front part.

In the thirteenth row a fireplace door is installed, in the fourteenth row a vault is made of vertically standing bricks, leveling the vault in the fifteenth row. The sixteenth row forms the fireplace mantel on the front side, and in the seventeenth row they begin to lay out the firebox ceiling. It is completed in the eighteenth row, leaving small holes for the smoke channel.

If everything is done in accordance with the diagram, then the channel will have a tortuous shape, allowing the smoke to heat all the walls of the stove. In the nineteenth row, install a 30x19 cm damper on the smoke channel on the left. In the next seven rows, the outer walls of the stove and the chimney are laid out, and in the twenty-seventh row a metal strip is laid to support the stove ceiling. Step-by-step laying of a fireplace stove - photo Rows from 28 to 30 - the stove ceiling, are laid according to the red brick pattern. Next they lay out the well chimney from one row of bricks to the required height.

In each row, the brick is moved so that a bandage is formed: the seam of the previous row should be covered with the top brick. This provides stability to the structure. A second damper is installed in the second row of the well.

In the video below, the entire process is described in more detail, and after studying the diagram, you will be able to understand all the nuances of laying such a stove.

The video shows how to properly install a fireplace door. The remaining doors are installed in the same way.

Drawing and diagram of a corner fireplace with a round arch

The fireplace is installed in the corner of the room on a separate foundation. The firebox is located at a level of 28-30 cm above the floor level, with an ash pan under it.

The firebox arch has a round shape and is made of brick. Firebox height – 52 cm. Smoke channel rectangular shape with a chimney tooth - a beveled vault in back wall firebox, the resulting narrowing provides good traction due to increased pressure in this area.

Above the fireplace tooth on the front side there is a cleaning door for removing soot. The mantelpiece is made of brick. There is a brick apron around the smoke channel, under which heated air circulates - for its exit there are holes covered with gratings.

The required materials and purchased items are shown in the table.

Table necessary materials for building a fireplace stove

The fireplace layout diagram describes in detail the masonry process. Please note that before laying the first row, it is necessary to level the base; this can be done using two rows of masonry, made according to the scheme of the first row.

Drawing and diagram of a corner fireplace with a straight arch

The fireplace insert imitates a traditional Russian stove. The zero row is located below the floor level and is made in the shape of a square, redistributing the load. The firebox is made of fireclay bricks, the walls of the fireplace are made of ceramic.

The bottom of the ash pan is made of metal sheet, which makes it easier to remove ash - the sheet is simply taken out. In the rear part of the firebox there is a fireplace tooth; the firebox ceiling rests on steel angle. The laying of such a fireplace is carried out according to the diagram.

Simple wall-mounted fireplace with straight chimney

Very simple circuit fireplace. The firebox is rectangular, lined with refractory bricks. The ash pit is separated from the firebox by a grate.

A straight and fairly wide chimney allows you not to worry about draft, and the gas tooth will prevent it from tipping over and causing smoke in the room. There is a damper built into the chimney. The dimensions and layout of the fireplace are shown in the figure.

Do-it-yourself fireplace with a straight chimney

Wall fireplace with podium

The peculiarity of this fireplace is the absence of an ash pan and a straight chimney of a simple shape. At the bottom of the fireplace there is a forward semicircular podium. It serves not only for decorative purposes, but also for safety: the firebox of this fireplace is shallow, and sparking is possible; the firebox is lined with refractory bricks.

The narrowing of the firebox in the rear part forms a protrusion - a gas tooth. The mantelpiece is made of wood and rests on a semicircular log. The simple shape of this fireplace will fit perfectly into a hunting-style house.

Sample of a wall-mounted fireplace with a podium

As can be seen from the article, it is not at all difficult to install stoves and fireplaces with your own hands; drawings and diagrams will help you understand the intricacies of the stove craft. You can also learn how to properly make a foundation for a fireplace, mix masonry mortar and lay bricks from the article on laying a fireplace with your own hands.

Throughout time, the main place in the house was given to the hearth. Recently, fireplaces in houses and cottages have become very popular, and the question of how to build a fireplace with your own hands is quite relevant.

Any stove or fireplace must meet the following requirements:

No smoke. Room heating. Beautiful appearance.

To achieve these goals, all stages of construction must be followed.

Location

The very first step involves choosing the location of the fireplace; not only saving living space, but also its efficient heating depends on this.

First you need to decide on the type of structure.

The fireplace stove can have the following design options:

Wall-mounted. Corner. Built-in. Island.

Based on this, the home owner can choose a suitable location for the fireplace.

When planning the location, it is necessary to take into account that it is not advisable to install a fireplace stove opposite a window, since the heat will escape out the window. In addition, it is necessary to strictly follow fire safety rules; a fireplace is a source of heat, not fire.

Materials

Making fireplaces begins with the selection of materials. For construction we will need:

Red ceramic brick. Its quantity is calculated based on the prepared drawing, while all incomplete bricks must be taken into account as whole. River sand.

Be sure to sift and clear of dirt and debris. The grain size of the material should be within the normal range (0.2–1.5 mm). Crushed stone for making the foundation. The permissible fraction should be from 2 to 6 cm. Blue Cambrian clay or ordinary red. Cement (M 200 or M 300). Smoke damper. Reinforcement.

Brick and its varieties

Throughout the entire period of kiln construction, solid red brick, which is made from clay, is used.

This material is used to lay out the outer parts of fireplaces. Therefore, a lot depends on the quality of the brick.

The brick must have the following properties:

Have the correct shape; Do not contain cracks or potholes. Do not have deformations;

The interior of the fireplace is lined with fireproof fireclay bricks or quartz material.

Material quality requirements

When purchasing a brick, you need to pay attention to the following parameters:

The material must correspond to a grade of at least M200. The required amount of brick must be purchased from one batch. The appearance of the brick must not contain cracks or chips.

Preparation

This stage consists of the process of preparing materials. Particular attention, of course, is paid to the brick, but in addition to it, other components will be needed.

You will need a clay mixture, which is thoroughly cleaned of unnecessary impurities and wiped. Before laying, this mixture is soaked for about 2–3 hours.

The sand that will participate in the solution must also be cleaned; it will be enough to sift it through a sieve with fine holes.

The resulting solution should not spread on the surface of the brick, but at the same time slide off it with ease.

Pouring the foundation

To pour the foundation for the fireplace/stove, you will need the following materials and tools:

tape measure; grinder; welding machine; hammer + nails; board; fittings; cement (grade M400).

The first thing you need to do is formwork from edged boards.

It must be securely installed and have a height of 8–10 cm. The reinforcing rod is laid in 19 cm increments, after which perpendicular rows of rods are laid. The joints of the rods must be secured by welding.

To ensure that the finished foundation does not contain voids, the solution is plowed a little with a free rod.

After this, the foundation must be left alone. Its drying time can vary from 15 to 18 days, depending on the conditions.

Fireplace masonry

DIY fireplace

The laying is carried out according to the following scheme:

Several layers of waterproofing material are laid on top of the foundation base. For the first row, cement is added to the mortar, and the bricks are laid on slats. The third row has small nuances, namely the installation of two pins, which will be needed a little later for the fireplace grate. In order to fold the fireplace and stove correctly, it is necessary to adhere to the diagram or drawing. To maintain the temperature regime in the future design, it is necessary to ensure that the outer wall of the brick fireplace does not come into contact with the firebox. To remove excess mortar from the walls of the firebox, its surface is cleaned with a damp cloth. To improve the quality of heating, it is necessary maintain a slight forward tilt angle of the rear wall. The side walls are designed to be turned outwards. To avoid the possibility of fire, it is necessary to take precautions and protect the floor in front of the fireplace with a sheet of iron.

Folding the fireplace stove is half the battle; you need to make a smoke collector.

The principle of its laying is to lay out bricks with a gradual overlap. The portal-type holes inside are blocked using jumpers, which can be made in several ways:

arched, wedge-shaped, vaulted.

By following these rules, you can easily design a stove or fireplace yourself. Now all that remains is to deal with the chimney.

Chimney

Finishing work

The decoration for the corner version of the fireplace can be tiles or marble tiles, stone or decorative brick. If desired, you can simply plaster the surface or use other decorative elements.

The modern market offers a large number of elements for decoration, including wooden parts. For safety reasons, their use is not recommended.

The decoration is fastened using regular tile adhesive, and the decoration itself should start from the bottom of the fireplace, gradually rising.

If your fireplace or stove already contains marble parts, then it is recommended to cover them with cellophane to avoid scratches.

For the firebox, you can use fireclay bricks, and for cladding, choose a material of a different quality.

The chimney structure can be made not only of brick, but also of special modules in the form of a metal or ceramic pipe.

To reduce errors when building fireplaces, it is recommended to use ready-made drawings rather than developing them yourself.

When designing a fireplace, you can focus on built-in shelves or firewood racks, this will give the structure a more aesthetic appearance.

Video: How to make a brick fireplace with your own hands

A novice stove maker always wants to build some outlandish stove.

Preferably simple. And also beautiful and effective. It is a pity that there are not so many orders of such constructions.

Among them, a fireplace stove with a bread chamber stands out, operating according to a scheme popular in Scandinavian countries. The scheme is not without drawbacks, but has a high degree of universalism.

There is a massive universal heating stove, decorative fireplace, chamber for baking bread. Simple design, multifunctionality, relative compactness. Good option for a country house, capable of heating an area of approximately 25-30 square meters.

We offer a procedure that allows you to assemble the stove yourself, with only minimal stove craft skills. A simple basic skill in working with clay and brick is sufficient for the performer. The rest is simple.

Materials for constructing a fireplace stove with a bread chamber:

1 – Kiln brick - approximately 1100 pcs.

If you use fireclay bricks, you will need approximately 150 units. (The quantity of bricks is given without taking into account the costs of the foundation and chimney). 2 – Knitting wire 3 – Cleaning doors - 3 pieces 4 – Blower firebox with air adjustment 5 – Fireplace door for a firebox 500x500 mm 6 – Basalt cord - 2 sets 7 – Pipe valve in brick - 3 pieces 8 – Grate with working area one or two bricks

The order of laying the stove-fireplace

Do-it-yourself masonry is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance.

Just don't be afraid. And pay close attention to the order. Then it will be simple.

We lay out the first row based on the oven body with an area of 4x5 bricks and add an allowance for the plinth. Although you can do without it. But it’s somehow more elegant with him.

In the second row we lay out the finishing perimeter of the oven:

We form internal channels. On the third row we will install cleaning channels and a blower door. They are attached to wire and clay mortar, without a basalt cord:

In the fourth row we select the height of the doors:

In the fifth row, we close the doors and install a grate.

If the height of the room allows, it is advisable to make another row of masonry - a more massive floor will emerge. When using fireclay bricks, it’s time to start laying them. We make it only for use. External walls and we continue to build channel partitions with ceramic bricks:

Row 6 - form a tray for firewood. You can do without bevelling the hearth, as in the figure, but this way the firebox will work better. We separate the channels.

Small channels are descending. Large ones are ascending. We use an oblique dressing. You can do it without it, but it’s safer with it.

If, for reasons of simplification, you start using oblique dressing rarely, then you should always orient it towards outside, as in the figure. Without connecting to the walls of the firebox. The grate is as close as possible to the combustion door. If you sink it deeper, towards the rear wall of the firebox, smoking is possible - air turbulence will block the exit from the firebox to smoke channels.

Row 7. The combustion door is installed. It is installed on a seal - a basalt cord impregnated with clay mortar.

Rows 8-13. Raise the firebox to the height of the fireplace door:

Rows 14-15. The place for the beam jumper is being prepared.

Many people prefer to make bevels for it right on the spot, choosing a brick with a grinder. You can also saw it in advance. The first option is more accurate. The second one is less dusty and dirty.

The door cover is made as thick as a brick.

Cannot be placed on anchors. Only a beam or arch (if the fire door has an arch). It is advisable to insert wire into the masonry joints:

Row 16. We begin to form under the bread chamber. We overlap without iron, with a simplified wedge overlap:

Row 17. We increase it for the bread chamber. We monitor the bandaging of the slot ceiling:

Row 18: Install the bread chamber door. We place it, like the furnace, on a basalt cord:

Row 19. Continue with the bread chamber. We open the passage of gases from the bread chamber into the descending channels:

Row 20. We bring the entrance to the descending channels to a height of two bricks.

Row 21-22. We block the descending channels and form heels under the vaulted ceiling of the bread chamber.

Row 23. We mount the arch of the bread chamber. We leave the fireplace channel and close it with a valve with a long handle.

Attentively! The valve will get very hot during the process! Therefore, we place it on asbestos or basalt! The vault will have to be cut at the top to level the masonry.

Or lay out another row - this is if the size of the room allows. Row 24. We bandage the arch bread chamber. If there is free height in the room, you can lay out another row. The minimum is shown here:

Row 25-27. Form a cap over the bread chamber.

The columns under the ceiling are placed based on the location of the chimney - its location is not strictly regulated, it can be installed at any point of the stove ceiling - you need to start from the most convenient passage of the roof. Simply put: we look at the beams. Cleaning is carried out immediately - the installation point is chosen again along the pipe - preferably as close to it as possible. Not shown in the figure:

28-30 row. Mandatory three rows of overlap.

We place two valves in the pipe, one above the other.

Such duplication is necessary to form an air gap - as in double window glazing. Heat is retained better. To revive the masonry during the process, you can use brick releases to make shelves on the body of the stove. Just don’t get carried away with their construction - elements protruding from the array interfere with convection along the body of the stove: Everything will look something like this:

When lighting for the first time, always open the valve that closes the channel from the bread chamber to the pipe.

Many stove makers call it “direct stroke”. This manipulation will allow you to warm up the pipe. Subsequently, the firebox is carried out in the usual manner. When operating in furnace mode, this valve is always closed.

If we use it as a fireplace, then it is always open. Good and cozy warmth to you at any time of the year! two-story house, and the second floor will also be heated from the same stove. Laying a stove, even the simplest one, requires attention, diligence and hard work, because it is a complex and painstaking task. But after studying the photo report, a lot will become clear to you and you will be able to build a similar stove for yourself. Professional stove makers strongly recommend to beginners!!! First, try to lay the stove without mortar (dry) in order to learn from your mistakes and avoid them during real masonry! Anything is within the power of a person, the main thing is the desire and you will succeed! And so, let's look at all the stages of construction more carefully and figure out what the author needed to create this stove-fireplace? Materials 1.

red ceramic brick2. fireclay fire brick 3. red clay4.

river sand 5. roofing felt6. metal corner7.

grate 8. valves9. oven doors10.

Ash pan 11. soot cleaners12. wire13.

sheet metalTools1. trowel2. trowel3.

spatula4. Bulgarian5. diamond discs on stone6.

corner7. plumb8. ruler9.

level 10. mallet11. hammer12.

container for solution 13. drillThe process of building a fireplace stove with your own hands. And so, the first thing you should do is decide on the location of the future stove, since this stove will heat 2 floors, it is advisable and easier to place it in the middle of the room. Basically, stoves in houses are located in the center of the hut, this is how our grandfathers and great-grandfathers built.

But the location still depends on the design of the house itself, as well as the layout of the rooms. For example, fireplaces are built mainly along the wall, or in the corner, and in in this case the stove is combined and the “middle” option was chosen. The author also offers diagrams for the location of the stoves. For masonry, you should immediately decide on the brick and its quality. As a rule, stoves are made of red ceramic solid brick, but it is advisable to lay the internal combustion chamber from fireclay refractory bricks, it has a yellowish color and tolerates high temperatures well. The basis of the foundation is the construction of the foundation itself, the best would be concrete poured into formwork, larger than the furnace.

For example, when stoves were built in villages, oak logs or stumps were used as the foundation. Now the situation with materials is excellent, you can afford a solid and solid foundation. As expected, insulation in the form of roofing felt is laid on the base of the foundation. The lower part of the brickwork will be laid on cement mortar.

But only before the fire starts!!! As we can see in the photo, the master uses hollow red brick and generously fills it with cement mortar. Then the author begins laying the walls of the stove. Since the stove will be combined with the fireplace, the base is corresponding, divided under fireplace and firebox. Accuracy plays an important role in masonry and each row is placed level, strictly from the corner. The door of the ash chamber is installed, it also plays the role of a blower fresh air into the firebox. A grate is placed on top of the ash chamber. First, a cell is made from refractory brick. When laying a stove, a lot of bricks have to be chopped, so to minimize the consumption of bricks, the master uses a grinder with a disk for stone. Then the stove door of the combustion chamber is installed, secured with wire. Next, the walls of the stove are raised. From the side where the fireplace will be located, the craftsman places a corner in order to lay the brick, for a better fit, a groove was cut into the brick. Fireplace laying. The lower part of the fireplace, designed for drying and storing a small amount of firewood. Thanks to the grinder, the brick can be cut to a specific size and fit very tightly. This is what the door of the combustion chamber looks like. The upper part of the firebox is laid out with refractory bricks, on a clay mortar. The combustion chamber is ready. Next, the author proceeds to creating a chimney. The craftsman makes a metal spacer. And then lays brick on it. In order to be able to easily clean out the soot, plugs are installed.

During the operation of the furnace, there is such a problem as accumulated soot, it impedes the passage of gases and the furnace begins to smoke, so that in short terms To solve this problem, it is worth opening the plugs and clearing the passage from accumulated soot. Everything can be used further) Laying chimney wells. The chimneys are then placed up near the stove with a “snake” near the fireplace with a “pipe” And now the stove has already grown to the ceiling. A metal sheet is laid on the chimney of the stove, and 2 layers of brick on top - this is done to compensate for the pressure inside stoves. Each chimney has its own valve. After the valves, the chimney merges into one and goes to the second floor of the building. Pay attention!!! Here the author uses a kind of trick, namely, the brick is placed directly on the edge; inside the chimney has a serpentine shape, which allows the room on the second floor to be heated to the optimal temperature in a short period of time. The master makes a hole in the roof using reciprocating saw, you can also use an ordinary hacksaw. As you can see, the pipe is also laid out with bricks on the edge - this, by the way, greatly saves building material, and mainly facilitates the construction.

The pipe should also be secured metal corners for greater reliability. It is then advisable to plaster such masonry, and ideally also cover it with tiles. At the exit, the pipe continues to be laid using the traditional method on a full brick. Attention! The pipe must be strictly higher than the roof ridge, at least 50 cm.

Otherwise, it will be blown out by the wind. This is exactly the kind of stove-fireplace the author came up with; all that remains is to plaster it and cover it with stone or tiles to give it a more aesthetic appearance. The work is certainly difficult, but doable) Don’t start laying the stove right away, study special literature! Then try to start by building a simple oven (dry) without mortar. And only after gaining some experience, you can safely get down to business! This concludes the article.

Thank you for your attention! Come visit often, don’t miss out on new items in the world of homemade products! This article is presented for informational purposes! SourceBecome the author of the site, publish your own articles, descriptions of homemade products with payment for text. More details here.10Idea8Description10ExecutionFinal rating: 9.33 out of 10 (votes: 1)FacebookVKontakteTwitterGoogle+OK11To write a comment you must log in to the site via social media. networks (or register): Regular registrationInformationVisitors in the Guests group cannot leave comments on this publication.

The fireplace is usually placed in the living room. Where else to admire the fire, if not in the room for relaxing and receiving guests. It is not possible to use it as the main source of heat with all designs, but as an additional one, in the autumn-spring period it is very comfortable. A fireplace will also help in particularly severe cold weather, when the main heating power is insufficient. You can build a simple fireplace with your own hands. This is far from easy, but it is possible.

Although it takes a lot to build a fireplace less bricks, but it is very important to lay out all the elements correctly. Because of design errors the fireplace may not work efficiently or not work at all. In addition to the heating function, the fireplace also performs aesthetic functions in many ways, which is why it is often chosen for its appearance, not forgetting the technical features.

Dutch fireplaces

Although this heating device has a wide-format firebox traditional for fireplaces, it is essentially a stove - it has a multi-turn chimney. So this is a heavy, massive structure that is difficult to construct. He only has two key differences from the stove - the size of the firebox portal and the absence of a vent. If you know how to fold a Dutch oven with some simple adjustments, you can turn it into a fireplace. Moreover, if there is an old Dutch woman in the house, even demanding overhaul, it easily turns into a fireplace. You only need to disassemble the front combustion part, insert a ready-made metal firebox of a suitable size, connect it to the smoke circuits and decorate it.

This is the type of unit with an open firebox that can be used as the main heating device. The Dutch have long been forced to save on fuel and do not allow themselves to release heat into the chimney.

Open or Alpine (Swiss)

This type of fireplace has become popular only recently. In fact, this is also not a fireplace in its pure form, but for a different reason. Rather, it is simply an open or semi-closed hearth, over which a cap is made that turns into a chimney.

It fits perfectly into chalet-style interiors, because that’s where it came to us. The device, in general, is simple, but not very efficient in terms of heating. But very decorative.

The option that you see in the photo above is made in a rustic style - made of natural processed stone. This kind of work costs a lot of money: you have to adjust, trim hard rocks stone, which requires a high level of skill.

Classic English

A traditional-looking fireplace the way we imagine it. Open wide portal firebox in which wood burns. Moreover, its decoration can be anything, either elaborate to suit the corresponding interiors, or discreet, which fits into high-tech and minimalism.

Despite the fact that it doesn’t seem to take up very much space for manufacturing classic fireplace together with an average length chimney, it will take about 800 bricks. Total weight there are about a ton of similar structures. The smallest classic fireplace requires a solid separate foundation, like the one for a stove - to the same depth as the foundation of the house, and in size it should be larger on all sides by at least 15 cm. Bring it to one level with the floor.

Device and how it works

If you look at the photo, it seems that there is nothing complicated: a box with a pipe and that’s it. But what looks simple is actually far from simple. First, there is a smoke tooth at the top of the firebox. And not just any protrusion, but with a reflective surface. It narrows the cross-section of the pipe, twisting the flame inside the firebox.

Secondly, the bottom part of the fireplace insert does not have a vent, and the front wall is made with an inward slope. These two components make it possible to ensure that the flame spins in the firebox for a long time, giving off maximum heat.

Thirdly, there is a damper in the pipe, which effectively and, very importantly, safely regulates the intensity of combustion. Safe - because a properly built fireplace under no circumstances produces carbon monoxide in quantities hazardous to health. After all, it is formed when there is a lack of oxygen, and with the portal of a classic fireplace open, there is always enough air and oxygen.

Another point of the fireplace view is that, like in a slide damper, a hole is cut out in it, with an area equal to 10% of the chimney cross-section. This gap is necessary for minimal draft, which in any case will not allow the flames and smoke to “fall out” of the firebox. Even with the damper closed, the fire spins inside and the smoke goes up the chimney.

This design allows for efficient use of heat even when burning high-calorie fuel. The long-rotating flame heats the walls of the firebox to the maximum, and they perfectly heat the room.

If we talk about the possibility of heating water, then it is not possible to put anything in the firebox: all dynamics are disrupted. But above the tooth on the pipe, you can install a heat exchanger. Another question is that the temperatures there are no longer so high and it will not be possible to heat water for heating, but for hot water supply in a small volume (boiler accumulative type), there will be enough heat.

In the earliest English fireplaces, the hearth was without a grate, sloping outwards. At the same time, the slightest inaccuracy in execution led to the flame beginning to rotate in the other direction. At the same time, coals could fly out of the firebox, which is not at all good. Therefore, in the Middle Ages, they began to make small grates and a blower, which were opened only during kindling. When the wood flares up, the ash pan closes, which gives impetus to the formation of a fiery whirlwind in the firebox.

Modern English fireplaces are made with both a solid hearth and a grate. When lighting blind models, kindling liquids are used when igniting. They themselves provide sufficient impulse for the formation of a vortex.

Arranging a classic fireplace

Traditional English fireplaces are structurally different from each other in the shape of the smoke tooth. To accurately reproduce it, only “straight hands” is not enough. It requires experience and a lot of it. But there are models that are not so critical to this detail. You can build such a fireplace with your own hands if you know how to handle a trowel and a level.

In this embodiment, the grate has small sizes and is located at the very end of the firebox. This made it possible not to play tricks with the tooth, but to make it ordinary, stepped. But in this fireplace, the vent cannot be closed during lighting. The fire “spinning” is precisely due to the entry of air into back fireboxes

Rumford fireplace

One of the classic varieties is called the Ramfod (Rumfoord) fireplace. The principle of operation is the same, only the swirl is provided not by the smoke tooth, but by the narrowed neck of the chimney, the shape of which repeats one of the branches of the hyperbola.

Rumford fireplace. The key unit is the pipe neck

Structurally, it is simpler and requires less space - the firebox can be less deep. The problem is that the neck must be made with very high precision. A deviation of only 5% from the required shape leads to inoperability. This is the main difficulty, therefore we do not recommend making this fireplace with your own hands.

With factory firebox

If there is metal stoves, then why shouldn’t there be metal fireplaces? And they are. Fireplace inserts are made from complex alloys - silicone, composite and special. The processes occurring in the fireplace insert are simulated by special programs, which is why the efficiency of these heating devices is high and the complexity of installation is average. Another advantage is that you can connect a regular metal chimney.

Another nice point: the weight of the firebox is about 100 kg. If the finishing weighs a little, you can place such a fireplace on a reinforced concrete slab. If you want natural stone, then you will have to make a foundation for the fireplace.

When installing a fireplace with a firebox, you must comply with a number of requirements:

the walls near which the heating device will be mounted must be covered with non-flammable materials and thermal insulation with a reflective layer;
the distance from the firebox to the wall is at least 10 cm, to the insulation - less than 5 cm;
The ash pan should facilitate cleaning, and its inlet should be located as close as possible to the firebox;
the chimney must correspond to the parameters of the firebox;
chimney joints are sealed with high-temperature sealant;
the gap between the firebox wall and the lining must be at least 1 cm;

See the video for the principle and procedure for installing a fireplace insert.

Obtaining permission

A little about whether to order a fireplace installation from a company or do it yourself. This is not just about the technical side of the issue. Usually, difficulties arise long before this - even during the preparation of documents. Firefighters really don’t like to give permission for fireplaces. And permits are required when installing a fireplace in any residential premises. The difficulty is that no legislative framework, which would prescribe the installation rules. There is a similar document for stoves, but not for fireplaces. But there is a phrase in SNiP 2.04.05-91 (on the design of heating and cooking stoves) that the installation of heating devices with an open firebox is prohibited in any residential premises. From this point of view, you are lucky if you plan to make a fireplace at a dacha located in a holiday village - it is not considered a residential premises.

As often happens, there is another document (MGSN 3.01-96), which in Moscow allows the installation of fireplaces on top floors, if there is only one owner. So in the capital, there is a chance to get permission, although not everyone has it.

There is also a loophole for residents of old brick Stalin buildings and Khrushchev buildings, in which, in addition to ventilation ducts, each apartment also has chimneys. Houses of modern construction, which also have smoke ducts, fall under the same category. In all these buildings it is allowed to place heating equipment on the flame. In general, a stove is implied, but this fact is not stated anywhere.

One of the possible options for designing a fireplace in a modern style

You can “push through” the permit by filling out the paperwork for a complex redevelopment with the transfer of heating appliances. An example is the transfer of walls, partitions, combination with a balcony or loggia. Do not write about registers or batteries in papers central heating. It is in this general formulation that heating appliances are used. In the same document you enter that you are going to install a heating device on a flame, attaching a project made by a design organization. In this case, homemade papers do not pass. There's a chance. But in general, the owners of houses and apartments will be persecuted for a long time and persistently. And don’t try to argue, otherwise you’ll never get permission. Rework everything they require. There is no other way. It will be a little easier for home owners. The logic is clear - if problems arise, you will burn yourself. They speak harshly to apartment owners, but you can still get permission.

Now, if you don’t want to deal with all this, you can order the installation of the same fireplace with a firebox from a specialized organization. Typically, they provide documentation services. They have already trodden paths, the chances are much greater. In addition, upon acceptance of your heating device, they may (and most likely will) require certificates for all materials, including bolts, screws and stove fittings. You also need to know and remember this. And with such a task, buying materials turns into a difficult quest.

Corner fireplace - arrangement and video

Very often fireplaces are made in the corner. It is convenient and practical: it occupies the most difficult area to decorate and serves as an excellent decoration itself. When choosing a place for a fireplace, take into account such a nuance as the height of the pipe. When laying a fireplace, almost half of the material and time is spent on forming the pipe. On the one side tall pipe- this is good - there will be good traction. On the other hand - high costs. To reduce them, the fireplace can be placed in the corner where the roof slope is located, and not its ridge. The height of the pipe should still be enough to provide traction, and the costs will be lower.

How to make a protective screen

If the fireplace will be in wooden house, the walls must be protected. Optimally it should look like this:

wooden walls are lined with thermal insulation (can be cardboard made of basalt wool with an operating temperature of up to 800°C, 1.5-2 cm thick);
attach a metal screen on top of it on ceramic insulators with a height of 3 cm.

The walls of the fireplace can be located 5-7 cm from the screen. The dimensions of the metal sheet are 15-20 cm larger than the dimensions of the firebox. This multi-layer system will prevent the wooden walls from heating to any significant temperatures.

Materials, order, comments

This fireplace has dimensions of 890*890*1610 mm (excluding pipe). To make it you will need:

red kiln brick 356 pcs (without pipe);
refractory brick SHA-8 - 55 pcs;
smoke valve 250*130 mm;
steel corner with a wall thickness of 5 mm: 50*600 mm - 1 piece; 50*800 mm - 2 pieces;
steel sheet 3 mm thick 400*600 mm.

The above layout is one of the types of classic fireplace for installing it in a corner. The scheme is quite simple, but a large number of bricks in it require trimming. To lay this brick fireplace, you will definitely need a good grinder and a large number of stone discs.

When forming a tooth in the firebox (rows 10-13), the fireclay refractory brick is hemmed. The upper edge of the brick of each subsequent row should protrude 30 mm above the previous one. This edge is trimmed so that it is inclined and even. As a result of laying all 4 rows that form the tooth, the surface should be even and smooth. It will “twist” the flame and reflect heat into the room, so pay maximum attention to this moment.

Enough detailed instructions instructions for laying this fireplace are given in the video.

Masonry conditions and materials

You should start laying a fireplace with your own hands in the autumn-spring period, when the temperature is between 15-20°C. Under other conditions, it is difficult to work and requires solid experience.

The brick is stove-made, red, solid. Front and smooth are not suitable - it will not withstand temperature changes and will crumble. When choosing a stove brick, pay attention to the geometry and color. Burnt iron ore is not suitable for us, nor are bulging and warped bricks. Only smooth, one color, producing a clear sound when tapped.

The masonry is laid using a clay-sand mortar. Clay is purchased construction clay, as well as sand - river, not quarry. The clay, soaked to a doughy state, is mixed with sand in a ratio of 1:3, water is added until a solution of medium plasticity is obtained. Be sure to check the fat content of the solution: take the solution on a trowel and tilt it. The solution should fall, leaving a layer of 1.5-3 mm on the metal. If the layer is thinner and metal is visible, add clay; if the remainder is lumpy and thick, add sand and a little water. As a result, a solution with the specified conditions should be obtained.

You can mix it all at once. At night, cover the container with the solution with wet burlap and stir it several times before work.

When laying, the thickness of the seams is 6-13 mm. Ideally - 8-10 mm. If you are installing a fireplace with your own hands for the first time, constantly use a level and plumb line. Check every row and even every stone. Fireplaces are tall and narrow devices with a high center of gravity. Such structures do not forgive even the slightest deviations. Therefore, the level must be of good quality, ideally if you have a calibrated one.

Drying and accelerating furnace

The finished fireplace is dried for at least 20 days in a well-ventilated area. You can create a draft, but they should not fall on the walls sun rays. For shading, you can hang sheets on windows and doors or cover the openings with gauze.

After three weeks of drying, an accelerated fire can be carried out. Take slow-burning fuel (seed coal, blacksmith's coal). If the oven was drying in good conditions, melt, add fuel in small portions, heat for a while. After three days you can use it “to its fullest.” If the conditions were “not very good”, they start with 3/4 of the bookmark, gradually bringing it to full over a few days.