Install the bath on the board floor slabs. How and what is the best way to insulate the floors in the bath? Styrofoam prices

1. Top cover

2. Ceiling

Important for any building quality installation ceiling. Ceiling- this is the first and important barrier to internal heat. Since warm air accumulates at the top, it is obvious that the leaky ceiling is the main source of heat loss. This is especially pronounced at elevated temperature regimes of the bath.

The height of the ceiling in my bath is 2.2m. However, to organize a steam room "in accordance with all the rules", I would advise making the ceiling height - 2.5 m.

over draft ceiling counter-planks are nailed exactly under the mats - planks 10 cm wide and 20-25 mm thick, on top of which it is mounted finishing ceiling from a lining or something like that. The boards of the finishing ceiling lie parallel to the draft. Lining material - any, including conifers. Rumors that spruce or pine boards in the bath are leaking resin are greatly exaggerated.- a droplet will appear somewhere, so it is easy to remove it. Do not forget that pine is a strong energy donor and, therefore, this material is the most preferable for a bath.

In the steam room, the ceiling is made in exactly the same way, only the rough ceiling can be made from thicker boards (40-60mm thick).

It is not allowed to use plywood, fiberboard, chipboard for filing the ceiling because these materials are made with adhesives based on formaldehyde and phenol, which are toxic carcinogens.
For your information: in Germany, Finland, Sweden, the use of these materials in housing construction forbidden.

3. Vapor barrier

The main task vapor barrier prevent the penetration of warm, moist air into the insulation, otherwise the moisture from the air will condense inside the insulation, the insulation will get wet and lose its insulating properties.

4. Insulation.

In Belarusian villages, such heaters were also used:

1. Backfilling (laying) with dry maple leaves in a layer of 10 - 15 cm, on top of which a layer of soil 5 cm thick was poured. Under this backfill, vapor barrier was not made, since the leaves are laid horizontally and do a good job of this task themselves.

2. Liquid clay is mixed with sawdust in proportions: clay - 1 part, sawdust - 3 parts. Clay is a good natural antiseptic and does not allow sawdust to rot or mold. The disadvantage of this method is that a layer of such insulation 10 - 15 cm thick dries for several months.

3. Bonfire - a product of flax processing - very effective insulation, but highly flammable and combustible. To reduce the fire hazard, 3 parts of the fire were mixed with 1 part of the soil and laid in a layer of 10 - 15 cm.

You should not contemptuously protrude your lip - these cheap old-fashioned ways in terms of thermal insulation qualities can give odds to many newfangled expensive heaters. And in terms of environmental friendliness - in general, out of competition!

I would especially like to dwell on the inadmissibility of using insulating materials such as polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam in the bath.

All these substances emit formaldehyde, styrene and other toxic substances. When heated, the release rate increases, and at temperatures above 60 ° C, destruction processes begin to develop in them with a change in volume and an intensive release of toxic substances.

Since the rate of metabolic processes in a person increases sharply in the bath, all these poisons are successfully absorbed by the body through the skin and respiratory tract, which eventually leads to a whole bunch of diseases, including cancer. Styrene is especially dangerous for the female body.

Here are excerpts from an article by Evgeny Shirokov, Ph.D. tech. Sciences, Chairman of the Board of the Belarusian Branch of the International Academy of Ecology.

Architect Dmitry Tikhashin (Belarus): “Everything new is a well-forgotten old… In the early 1980s, the Dalstroyproekt Institute (Magadan), of which I was an employee at that time, developed and implemented a constructive system in the Severovostokzoloto Administration prefabricated buildings and structures in hard-to-reach areas of the extreme north-east of the USSR (Magadan region, Kamchatka).

The system was based on the lungs aluminum panels with "stuffing" - expanded polystyrene 200 - 250 mm thick. The helicopter transported up to 300 m³ of enclosing structures per flight, the load on the permafrost is minimal - the foundations are lightweight, the resistance to heat transfer is sufficient ...

For hard-to-reach northern regions - perfect option. Many buildings were built: production workshops, gold processing factories, household houses and a series of two-story residential buildings - in the village of Bilibino, in Chukotka, and in other places ...

However, after 5 years, the Ministry of Health of the USSR, after verification and research, which were of a closed nature, decided to ban further construction and living in such houses. The reason for checking and making a decision was the numerous facts of unfavorable pregnancy in the houses of this series. Then it was officially believed that formaldehyde and other emissions from polystyrene foam, their high concentration in residential premises, were probably to blame.

The story is similar with the well-known "beams" at BAM - the dream of the newlyweds - the builders of the legendary highway. Many still remember well these metal "barrels", insulated with polystyrene foam from the inside. Approximately the same constructive scheme, the same consequences for pregnant women (families were young, and they were settled in the first place), and the same result - a ban on production 5 years after large-scale implementation, despite the presentation of high state awards to developers. It is interesting that the residents of these houses did not feel any smells or discomfort.”

So, men, if you want to have healthy children and grandchildren, then draw conclusions ...

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation.

At calculation of insulation thickness We will be guided by the following SNiP:
SNiP 23-02-2003 "Thermal protection of buildings".
SNiP 23-01-99 "Construction climatology"
SNiP II-3-79 "Construction heat engineering".

These documents are easy to find in free access in Runet. It is enough to type their name in the search box. I advise you to download, as they will be needed for calculations.

Calculation procedure:

1. According to Table 1 "Climatic parameters of the cold period of the year" SNiP 23-01-99 "Construction climatology"

Determine Dd - Degree Day heating period, °С day according to the formula

Dd=Nheats (Tint - Text)

where,
Tint - the calculated average temperature of the internal air of the building, equal to 21 ° C.
Tex - average outdoor temperature during the heating period (column 12 of Table 1)
Noheat - duration, days, of the heating period, taken for a period with an average daily outdoor temperature of not more than 8 °C. (column 11 of Table 1)

Determine Dd - Degree-day of the heating period in the village of Babenki, Ivanovo Region. RF.

According to Table 1 of SNiP 23-01-99 "Construction climatology" we determine the necessary parameters for the city of Ivanovo.

Noheat = 219 days; Text = -3.9°C;

Then,
Dd=Nheats (Tin - Text) = 219 (21-(-3.9))=219 (21+3.9)= 5453°С day;

Dd = 5453°С day;

2. According to Table 4 “Normalized values ​​of heat transfer resistance of enclosing structures” SNiP 23-02-2003 “Thermal protection of buildings”, we determine the normalized value of heat transfer resistance Rreq, m ° С / W, substituting the obtained value Dd in the appropriate column and column;

Determine the normalized value of heat transfer resistance Rreq in the village of Babenki, Ivanovo Region. RF.

According to Table 4 "Rated values ​​of heat transfer resistance of enclosing structures" SNiP 23-02-2003 "Thermal protection of buildings"

In column 2 - "Public, except for the above, administrative and domestic, industrial and other buildings and premises with a wet or wet regime",
in column 5 - "Attic floors, over unheated undergrounds and basements",

We find the normalized value of heat transfer resistance Ro for the value Dd closest to the obtained Dd=5453°C day.

In our case, this is 6000°C day.

For this value Rreq = 3.4 m·°С/W;

Rreq = 3.4 m °C/W;

3. Determine the thickness of the insulation:

where,
R - heat transfer resistance of the insulation layer, m ° C / W;
λ - Thermal conductivity coefficient of the selected insulation, W / (m ° C), which is determined according to SNiP II-3-79 "Construction heating engineering" Appendix 3 "Heat engineering indicators building materials and structures »

R=Rreq-R1-R2-...-Rn

where,
Rreq - normalized value of heat transfer resistance, m °C/W
R1,R2,...,Rn - heat transfer resistance of layers of all structures (except for the insulation layer), which are located between the room air and the outside air, m · ° С / W. It can be: finishing ceiling, draft ceiling, attic floor, roof materials.

where,
Tn - structure thickness, m;
λn - coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material from which this structure is made, W / (m ° C) .
Determined according to SNiP II-3-79 "Construction heat engineering" Appendix 3 "Thermotechnical indicators of building materials and structures"

Determine the thickness of the insulation basalt wool in the attic of a bathhouse in the village of Babenki, Ivanovo Region. RF.

Between indoor air and outdoor air are the following constructions(except for the insulation layer):

Finished pine ceiling (lining), thickness 1.5 cm;
Draft spruce ceiling (board), thickness 3cm;
Pine loft floor (board), thickness 3cm;
Rough roof decking made of spruce (board), thickness 2.5cm;
Slate, thickness 0.6cm;

λ pine=0.18W/(m °C)
λ spruce \u003d 0.18 W / (m ° C)
λ slate \u003d 0.35 W / (m ° C)
λ basvat \u003d 0.06 W / (m ° C).

Then the heat transfer resistance of the insulation layer:
R=Rreq - Rfine ceiling - Rrough ceiling - Rloft floor - Rrough flooring - Rslate=
3.4 - 0.015 / 0.18 - 0.03 / 0.18 - 0.03 / 0.18 - 0.025 / 0.18 - 0.006 / 0.35 \u003d 2.68m ° C / W;

The thickness of the insulation is:
T=R λ=2.68 0.06= 0.16m;

The minimum thickness of basalt wool insulation is 16 centimeters.

5.Attic space

Attic space- comfortable and the right part buildings. If the roof slope is 35 - 45 degrees, then in the attic you can make a spacious room with a ceiling height of 2.0 - 2.2 m. This room can be used as a rest room, as a room for storing brooms, or as a room for feasts, etc.

If we make a room in the attic (an uninsulated attic), then it is necessary to lay a floor in the attic.

On the draft floor we lay a finishing floor from any material that matches your taste and financial capabilities.

For example:

Batten
Moisture resistant laminate
Parquet
And others...

When laying the floor, ventilation slots 2 - 2.5 cm between the walls and the finished floor are also left without fail.

6. Hatch to the attic

This design fully provides reliable thermal insulation.

Most people living in suburban households have absolutely no idea how it is not to build a bathhouse where you can not only take a steam bath, but also take a break from hard working days. However, if there is nothing complicated in the process of its construction, then it is necessary to understand well how to insulate the floors of the bath.

There are several types of thermal insulation materials that can be used to insulate floors. bath rooms.

There are several types of thermal insulation materials that can be used to insulate the floors of bath rooms. In particular:

Mineral wool, which is usually made from artificial fibers. For its manufacture, basalt, diabase, limestone, diabase or dolomite are used. It is no secret that materials from rocks resistant to high temperatures. This insulation is durable, refractory, perfectly absorbs moisture, for this reason it is most often used as thermal insulation.

Very often expanded clay is also used as a heater. This material provides good sound insulation, absorbs moisture well, and most importantly, it is environmentally friendly. The insulation of floors in the bath with expanded clay is carried out as follows - the material is simply poured onto the vapor barrier layer. The procedure is simple and quite economical.

In addition, there are a huge number of other heat-insulating materials, including natural ones, but they are used quite rarely.

Ceiling device

Before proceeding with the insulation of the floors of the bath room, first you need to figure out how it works.

Before proceeding with the insulation of the floors of the bath room, first you need to figure out how it works. In log and panel buildings without an attic, ceiling structures are almost the same - they consist of the following main elements:

• Vapor barrier layer.
• Ceiling boards.
• Roll up cladding.
• Beam bars.
• Thermal insulation layer.

In baths with attics, the ceilings are arranged somewhat differently. Clay coating is applied to the ceiling boards (approximately 2 cm thick). To provide insulation, wood chips soaked in cement mortar are used, the layer thickness is approximately 15-17 centimeters. Other materials may also be used. If the thickness of the heat-insulating layer is insufficient, condensation will settle on the surface of the ceiling - in this situation, it is necessary to increase the thickness of the insulation.

Beams act as a bearing element of the ceiling, which rest on the walls with their ends.

Beams act as a bearing element of the ceiling, which rest on the walls with their ends. They are made from mainly coniferous wood. The distance between adjacent beams is determined by the section. The bars, on which the roll-up shields will be based in the future, are stuffed along the entire length onto the side faces of the beams. To them, in the ceiling of the attic, the ceiling itself is attached from below.

If the enclosing structures are made of brick, it is recommended that the beams be hermetically sealed due to the fact that when the building is heated, when the warm air flow in contact with the cold and thin sealing of nests from the outside leads to the formation of condensate, as a result of which the wood begins to rot.

The main elements of ceiling structures include: a waterproofing layer, ceiling filing, beams, cranial bars, anchors and much more. Before proceeding with the insulation of floors, it is recommended, first of all, to correctly prepare the floor. It is important that the depth of the beams is no more than 10 cm, the gap between them and back wall at the nest should be 2-3 cm, while the end must be made under the bevel.

Roll-up boards are perpendicular rows of boards made of cheap wood species.

Roll-up boards are perpendicular rows of boards made of cheap wood species. They are prepared in advance. The gaps between the boards and the beams should be 0.5-1 cm. Immediately before the manufacture of the boards, it is recommended to draw up a preliminary scheme for laying them out into floors, indicating required dimensions. After that, they are marked based on the scheme. Then the rolling shield, previously treated with an antiseptic, is placed on the cranial bars.

When the attic floor is equipped, it should be coated with a coating that prevents it from a possible fire. For the purpose of convenient installation, boards develop in reverse order. As a result of treatment with an antiseptic, a vapor barrier layer is stuffed on them. The thermal insulation layer is laid on the ceiling only after the complete arrangement of the roof.

Insulation of ceiling structures

How to insulate the floors in the bath quickly and reliably

When deciding which material to choose for thermal insulation, it is advisable to opt for light, practical, environmentally friendly and non-combustible products.

Or order a consultation of a specialist at a convenient time for you!

Request absolutely free and does not oblige you to anything!

Competent execution of the bath ceiling ceiling guarantees not only internal heat conservation, but also its safety, long service life and economy.

Article outline:

1. Ceiling material.
2. Overlappings in the ceiling device.
3. Insulation as an integral part of the ceiling.
4. The device of overlapping the ceiling of the bath without an attic.
5. Ceilings are concrete.
6. Ceiling ceilings in the presence of an attic.
7. Ceiling flooring.
8. Rolling shields.

Structurally, the ceilings in the bath are directly dependent on the type of walls erected. Their manufacture can be carried out from almost any material, but preference, as a rule, is still given to concrete or wooden structures.

Ceiling material

When, the floors are made of wood. The ceiling beams, which form their basis, are cut between the last and penultimate crown of the log house at the time of the construction of the walls. The vault of the ceiling of the bath during construction is a zone of special attention, since it is on it that the preservation of heat of the entire room and the functional efficiency of the facility depend.

Floor details - plates, boards, slabs, are made from well-dried and planed inside wood. The next step is their impregnation with drying oil, after which wooden structures dry and cover well oil paint. If during the work the parts must be put under plaster, they are not planed.

Overlappings in the ceiling device

The construction of baths, as a rule, is carried out in two directions - baths with an attic and baths built without an attic compartment. Special differences between ceilings in panel or log baths not observed, with the exception of the upper cladding, which, in the presence of an attic, is made in the form of a roof.

The ceiling of any bath consists of:

• hemmed boards, which have the name "draft ceiling";
• beam beam;
• rolling sheathing;
• insulation;

On a note!

Depending on how carefully the ceiling is made, the service life of the bath increases in direct proportion.

All the hot moist air rushes under the ceiling of the steam room of the bath. The main task is to prevent the steam from escaping and create a "thermos effect" so as not to let the heat out of the steam room. It is very important to competently carry out work to create a barrier using vapor and heat insulating materials.

Insulation as an integral part of the ceiling

Styrofoam, expanded clay, mineral wool in rolls or blocks are standard used in the construction of baths and are included as part of the ceiling ceiling. The basis of the task of their use is to prevent the insulating layer from getting wet at the time of operation, so that the material does not lose its functional abilities and thermal insulation properties.

For these purposes, vapor barrier materials are used. It can be:

• a mixture of oily clay with sawdust or chopped straw;
• fiberglass fabric;
• standard polyethylene or polyvinyl chloride film;
• modern polyethylene membrane film.

The purpose of using a vapor barrier is to prevent steam from seeping through the ceiling slabs into the insulation layer, not to form condensate that wets the thermal insulation layer, and also to keep the insulation in a dry state at all times.

The device of overlapping the ceiling of a bath without an attic

Before laying bearing beams, it is necessary to mark the position of each slot into which they will be touched. The markup is applied to the wall being erected, laid out to the mark of the intended bottom of the floor. The width of the nest is calculated based on the width of the beam with the addition of at least 50 mm for their insulation.

After marking, the wall is completed with two rows of masonry, taking into account the planned nests. Nests are laid out in two layers insulating material- roofing felt, roofing felt or parchment. After the installation of the beams, the nest is sealed with lime mortar with the continuation of the construction of the wall to their height.

Concrete ceilings

For this type of flooring, lightweight concrete with pumice, expanded clay or slag is used as a filler. Before laying concrete, the surface must be reinforced from the bottom. For these purposes, rolled wire with a diameter of 5 mm or reinforced steel with a thickness of up to 10 mm is used.

Before you install concrete floor, the ceiling of the bath is furnished with formwork. A layer of thick cardboard is laid in it. This technique allows you to give evenness to the surface of the ceiling.

After the manipulations, a layer of reinforcement is laid on top, which is strengthened from the bottom with supports to prevent deformation of the metal, and also leave a gap of about 50 mm between the reinforcement and the formwork. Such a layer of concrete, as a rule, is from 250 to 300 mm.

Ceiling ceilings in the presence of an attic

If there is an attic above the bathhouse, it is necessary to insulate it with high quality and competently carry out work on steam and heat insulation of the attic.

It is possible to apply for these purposes folk method. On the ceiling boards, as a vapor barrier layer, spread fiberglass or pvc film, on which about 30 mm of clay-sand mixture is poured. On that layer, wood chips soaked in a cement solution are poured, with a thickness of at least 150 mm.

However, as insulation is suitable and any other material the widest range modern building stores.

It is important!

The place of contact between the attic and the ceiling must be carefully insulated with several layers of roofing felt and covered with a thick layer of dry slag so that the room is kept warm for as long as possible.

Beams as the main element load-bearing structures ceilings, with their ends rest against the erected walls of the bath. The material for the beams are conifers trees - spruce or pine.

Before laying the beams, they are pre-coated with a layer of antiseptic. The side surfaces of the ends of the beams are carefully wrapped with a double layer of roofing paper, leaving the ends open.

The beams are embedded in the wall in such a way that during the operation of the bath they are completely isolated from the influx of warm air, since in contact with the external cold seal of the nest, condensate is immediately deposited, which leads to decay of wooden structures.

For the installation of roll-over shields, bearing vapor and heat-insulating layers, support bars are packed along the beams. They are attached from the bottom of the ceiling to the floors of the attic.

Ceiling deck

Overlapping ceiling decking, based on their specifics, can only be laid in small-sized construction, where the width of the object does not exceed 2.5 meters. Such a design can be done independently, without seeking help from specialist builders.

For the vault, a 50 mm thick edged board is used. The most difficult moment in this work is the fitting of the boards in such a way that there are practically no gaps between them. Top part the ceiling of the bath must be insulated and laid with a heater.

On a note!

Ceiling decking is not used as a ceiling in buildings where there is no attic space.

Overrun shields

Roll-up shields are made from boards of the lowest grade. They are prepared in advance, at the same time drawing up a plan for the layout of the shields with the designation of their dimensions on the ceilings. In accordance with the plan drawn up, the boards are marked and laid on the cranial bars, taking into account the fact that the gap between the beams and the boards should not exceed 10 mm.

Roll-up boards represent a failure of two rows of perpendicularly knocked together boards, covered with a layer of antiseptic. Fire-prevention coating is applied after the installation of shields on the attic floor.

On a note!

To make it convenient and quick to mount the structure, the roll-up shields are folded in the reverse order of their marking.

The vapor barrier layers are stuffed onto the roll-up shields at the time of their manufacture, and the insulation is laid on the roof of the attic after all work on the device has been completed.

Anyone who starts an independent construction of a bath on his site will have to take into account a huge number of specific nuances of this building. All of them, for the most part, are associated with the features of operation - frequent temperature changes with a very large amplitude, and a high level of humidity. Thus, all bath designs buildings must have operational qualities which make them capable of withstanding such extreme impacts.

Do-it-yourself ceiling in the bath

The bath ceiling is no exception. Moreover, the influence of humidity on it is especially critical, since hot air and steam always tends to rise, and usually in the overlap area in the steam room or washing room, the most high temperatures and humidity level. For those beginners in construction who decide to make a ceiling in the bath with their own hands step by step guide just necessary. It is these questions that this paper is devoted to.

There are several basic ceiling designs for a bath - all of them will be discussed below. But whichever of them is chosen as the base, they must all meet certain requirements:

• Any ceiling is a fairly massive structure, especially if the attic of the bath is planned to be used as an auxiliary, utility room or even as an additional useful area - attic. Thus, the ceiling structure must be highly reliable in terms of resistance to mechanical stress. Even if the attic will not be used to move people or place certain objects, the ceiling must still withstand both its own weight and the load of the insulation layer - this is a key rule for the safety of operating any room in general.

One of the key requirements is reliable thermal insulation.

• Bath procedures will only bring health benefits if an appropriate microclimate is created in the premises. The ceiling is that structural element of any building through which it is always possible to big loss heat. In order not to have to spend an incredible amount of fuel to maintain the desired temperature, while for the most part “heating the street”, it is necessary to provide the ceiling with the most reliable thermal insulation.
• Materials used for ceiling structure, should not be afraid of dampness and elevated temperatures. How to be¸ after all, in the vast majority of cases, it is used natural wood? There are solutions to this problem - the use of certain types of timber and special processing parts with compositions that dramatically increase the resistance of the material to moisture and to the processes of biological decomposition.

By the way, many of the modern impregnations give another useful result. They contain special flame retardant additives, which significantly increase the resistance of wood to fire - this is extremely important for a bath.

• One of the main "enemies" of wood is high humidity, and in a bath without it - nowhere. In order to protect the wooden load-bearing elements structures from moisture penetration, reliable hydro and vapor barrier will be required. At the same time, it must not be allowed that in the thickness of a tree or insulation material condensate has accumulated. This means that it is necessary to provide for the possibility of a free exit of water vapor up into the atmosphere.

A hydro-vapor barrier is shown above, a diffuse membrane is shown below.

Prices for waterproofing

hydrovapor barrier

This is ensured by the use of special roll coatings, membranes, and each layer must be located strictly in a certain place, otherwise the desired effect cannot be achieved.

• And, finally, it will be pleasant to spend time in the bath if the ceiling is also beautiful. Perhaps some home craftsmen classify this requirement as an excess, but still decorative qualities the walls and ceiling covering of the bath are a kind of “calling card” of the owners, and finishing issues should not be discounted either.

Now let's move on to the main structures. bath ceiling- hemming, flooring and panel type.

false ceiling

This design is the most commonly used. It is quite simple, understandable, meets all the requirements, allows you to use the attic as usable area.

The basis for mounting such ceiling system are beams attic floor. All other details, both above and below, are based on them. The convenience of the design is that there are no restrictions on the length and width of the room. It is assumed that the floor beams are installed according to the developed project, with the required beam cross-section (or log diameter) and with the necessary step. Thus, it is fully possible to turn the ceiling into a full-fledged interfloor overlap that opens up opportunities for beneficial use attic.

Schematically, a false ceiling can be represented as follows:

1 - the main walls of the bath. It is clear that natural wood is most often used, and in this diagram a monolithic wall is shown only for simplification.

2 - beams of the attic floor. Before mounting the ceiling, they must be thoroughly fixed to the walls with insulation of the nodes adjacent to them.

3 - ceiling filing boards. In this embodiment, shown in the diagram, they simultaneously play the role of the finishing surface of the ceiling, although this is not always the case.

4 - a layer of hydrovapor barrier. It is optimal if a special waterproof membrane. Even better if it has a foil layer facing down - this is an additional barrier to moisture and a reflective surface that prevents heat loss.

5 - a layer of thermal insulation materials laid between the floor beams.

6 – vapor-permeable a membrane that does not allow water to penetrate into the insulation from above, but does not interfere with natural vapor exchange - that is, it allows the ceiling structure to “breathe”, getting rid of accumulated moisture.

7 - attic floor boards.

Perhaps the main disadvantage of such a false ceiling design is the significant consumption of lumber and the rather high labor intensity in installation. However, we should not forget that at the same time "two birds with one stone" are killed - at the exit there is an insulated bath ceiling and an almost finished floor of the attic (mansard).

Are the bath and attic compatible?

With the right planning, why not. It is extremely convenient - after bath procedures, without going outside, go up to a full-fledged rest room.

The project is small, the reader can get acquainted in a special article of the portal.

Carrying out installation work

Work is carried out in the following order:

• If the floor beams have not yet been treated with special protective impregnations before their installation, now is the time to eliminate this drawback. Special attention is given to the end cuts of the beams - here you can not regret and three layers primers.
• In the event that the ceiling is arranged in the room where the sauna stove-heater will be located, a passageway should immediately be provided chimney. To do this, two jumpers are installed between the beams, which will limit the rectangle or square required for installing the through metal box.

Values ​​A and B must correspond to the dimensions atacquired or a self-made box - this will largely depend on the diameter of the chimney pipe.

This “outlined” square temporarily falls out of the scope of work - it will not be sewn up with boards either from above or below, no membranes are laid in it and no insulation is laid.

• The next step is to attach hydras over the entire area of ​​​​the room from below to the floor beams. vapor barrier membrane. It should be on the walls by about 200 mm on each side - this will be required to create a single system for waterproofing the room.

The best choice is special roll material designed specifically for this purpose. If this is not possible, it is permissible to use dense polyethylene with a thickness of at least 0.2 mm, but the quality of the insulation will not be the same. The strips are attached to the floor beams in such a way that an overlap of at least 200 mm is created, which must be glued with waterproof tape.

If foil material is purchased, then it is placed with the shiny side down, and the overlaps are glued with a special aluminized tape.

• Only now you can proceed to filing the ceiling with boards. There are at least two possibilities here.

The first is as shown in the diagram above. Binder boards, provided that it is quality material(best of all - grooved) will immediately play the role decorative coating. They are attached to the floor beams, which in this case are a kind of "lags". For fastening, either nails or self-tapping screws of the desired length are used. Self-tapping screws look preferable, as they hold suspended boards more securely, and during installation, impact forces are not required, which are not entirely “useful” for floor beams.

However, this method is used infrequently - it turns out to be a little expensive, since a good grooved board 20 ÷ 25 mm thick is expensive. In addition, between the waterproofing and the front skin, it is desirable to create a small air gap This means that for the initial filing, you can use third-rate material, which will simply create the basis for the insulation layer laid on top. And below is a slightly different design:

1 - walls.

2 - floor beams.

3 - a layer of hydrovapor barrier, the same as in the previous case.

4 - boards of rough filing (rolling). Material of not the highest decorative quality is quite appropriate here.

5 - a layer of foil roll insulation. This is another waterproofing barrier, plus the effect of a “thermos” is created in the room, which is very important, in particular, for a steam room.

6 - a layer of foil insulation is pressed against the roll boards by counter rails, which are placed perpendicularly, with the necessary step (400 ÷ 600 mm) for mounting the lining.

7 - natural lining, which becomes the front cover of the bath room. Usually it is used on the ceiling and on the walls.

Prices for wooden lining

wooden lining

When the cladding of the ceiling surface is finished, insert the chimney duct and fasten it to the ceiling covering.

After the lower part of the ceiling is sheathed, you can proceed to further work in the attic.

• The next step is laying the insulation layer. And here it is important to make one very important remark.

Often in publications with bath ceilings, you can find recommendations to first hem the bottom boards, and then cover the top, along the flooring and along the beams, with a waterproof vapor barrier film. Let's look at the diagram - it would seem that everything is exactly the same as above. But here the error is shown - it is highlighted with a red arrow.

If you lay the vapor barrier in this way, it turns out that the floor beams do not have any protection against moisture rising from above. Moreover, the possibility of evaporation of moisture up into the atmosphere is completely excluded, that is, the beams will not dry out even when the bath is not in use. Unfortunately, this error “walks” across the Internet, is replicated, and as a result, the master who applied such a scheme dooms the ceiling design to fragility.

The same error is in the photo

The boards of the front filing of the ceiling will in any case come into contact with steam, but they are easy to change as they wear out. But the beams perform a supporting role, and if the process of decay or the formation of a fungus goes into them, then the strength of the structure will be a big question, and repair work will cost a pretty penny.

The beams must remain open at the top - then when proper organization insulation excess moisture will simply evaporate into the atmosphere.

Mineral wool is very often used as a bath ceiling insulation - it is safe from the point of view of ignition, harmless to humans (if you use stone wool. Glass wool or slag wool in baths is undesirable). Insulation mats are spread between the floor beams, so that they fit as tightly as possible, leaving no gaps.

Expanded polystyrene, widely used in construction practice, should not be used to insulate a bath ceiling. Firstly, the material is not designed for high temperatures, and with strong heating it can deform, “float”. Secondly, there are many questions about polystyrene and environmental friendliness - over time, its decomposition is inevitable with the release of toxic substances. And thirdly, expanded polystyrene cannot be classified as non-combustible materials, and for a bath this is extremely important.

Often, expanded clay backfill is used to insulate the ceiling between floor beams, with a thickness of about 100 ÷ 150 mm. The method is not bad, but only in the case of using high-quality expanded clay, since you can find very critical testimonials from people who applied inexpensive material and not happy with the results.

Do not lose popularity and the old "grandfather" ways of warming the ceiling of the bath. So, usually during the construction of a log house, a lot of shavings and sawdust remain. And this is a very good insulating material. Under normal conditions, they are poured into the space between the beams in a dry form, but for a bath it is better to make a dense wet solution using cement or clay. You can look at an example:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The ceiling below is completely hemmed with clapboard. Between it and the ceiling tanks, an appropriate water vapor barrier layer is laid.
	A passage box has been installed, and in this case a chimney has already been installed.
	The same box is a view from the attic, filled with expanded clay, which acts as a thermal insulating "pillow".
	It is supposed to backfill a wet solution, so the cells between the floor beams must be additionally closed with pieces of film hydrovapor barrier. From below them, you can additionally lay a pro-oiled cardboard. The beams themselves remain open at the top.
	Surely, there are gaps in the coating - for example, in the places where cables or other communications pass. In addition, the gaps can be in the junctions of the beams.
	First of all, you can use polyurethane foam seal all cracks and gaps, blocking possible cold bridges.
	Now you can prepare the insulation composition. To do this, about one ladle (1.5 dm³) of dry cement is added to two buckets of dry sawdust.
	topped up required amount water. You need to be very careful with this - the solution should not turn out to be liquid. The required consistency is semi-dry, so that when squeezed in a fist, a lump forms, but without the release of water.
	The mixture is kneaded - it will be most convenient to do this with a construction mixer. For large volumes, you can also use a concrete mixer, then feeding the finished mixture upstairs.
	The finished composition is poured out between the floor beams.
	You can distribute it with a trowel - an even layer of the same thickness. It is not necessary to tamp the solution.
	Usually the layer is brought to the upper edge of the beams - it turns out about 100 ÷ 150 mm, which will be enough for high-quality insulation of the bath. Sometimes the work is carried out in layers, gradually bringing the thickness of the insulation to the desired level, allowing the laid layers to seize and dry.

Chopped straw is sometimes used instead of sawdust, however, in this case it is better to use clay mortar.

What kind of heater nor used, after laying it is recommended to fix on the floor beams steam-permeable diffuse membrane. The properties of this material are such that moisture cannot get into the insulation from above, and water vapor freely escapes. Such natural ventilation prevents formation of condensate and reduction of insulating properties.

The action of the diffuse membrane - water is retained, and steam passes

After the membrane is laid and stapled to the beams, you can proceed to the flooring of the attic floor boards, if it was planned. Usually, with hemmed ceiling types, attic floors are always made full-fledged, the room can be used, and the insulation will receive protection from mechanical damage.

Video: an interesting technique for insulating the ceiling in the bath

Bath ceiling floor type

This type of ceiling is much easier to install and requires much less lumber. However, it is not always possible to apply it.

Floor ceiling - on a miniature model of the bath

The floor ceiling will be appropriate only for small rooms - 2, maximum 2.5 meters. In this case, the flooring boards should have a thickness of about 50 mm. As a rule, the use of the attic as a useful area in such cases is not considered - the floor will not have the necessary strength. But on the other hand, the process of insulation is also significantly facilitated - the thermal insulation material itself does not require additional protection above.

An approximate diagram of the flooring ceiling is shown in the figure:

1 - walls. The distance between the main walls is no more than 2500 mm (light partitions are not taken into account).

2 - flooring boards, which are fastened with nails or self-tapping screws directly to the wall beam. The thickness of the board is less 50 mm, the width of its entry into the wall is the same - 50 mm. Well for these purposes, a high-quality planed board is suitable, which can be laid tightly one to the other, without gaps.

3 - layer vapor barrier- is no different from the above.

4 - insulating material. Almost anyone can apply. However, if bulk is used, then it will also be necessary to make partitions from a bar (pos. 5, shown in dotted lines, as an optional element) so that the backfill still has the necessary uniform thickness.

By the way, in this case, home-made mats are often used as thermal insulation, sewn from a waterproof film, and filled with available insulating material. For example, it can be synthetic winterizer waste, dry needles, etc.

Since movement in the attic is not expected, it is not necessary to make flooring over the insulation layer.

Under number 6 showing layer vapor permeable diffuse membrane. In this case, this is also optional. If the roof structure is made in accordance with all the rules, then such a membrane is already used under the roofing material, and free vapor exchange will be ensured. A reliable roofing should completely exclude direct water ingress, and since the attic is not used for economic or domestic purposes, an accidental spill of water is extremely unlikely. So you can save a lot on this.

Ceiling boards often immediately play a role finish coating. If there is a need, for example, when finishing a steam room, to add thermal insulation, then you can do the same as in the case of a false ceiling - fill perpendicular to the counter rails, which will press the foil material to the surface, and then lay the natural lining.

Video: an example of installing a floor ceiling

panel type ceiling

The design of such a ceiling to some extent combines the features of the floor and hemming schemes. ceiling surface is assembled on the ground, the process of insulation and waterproofing can also take place here, and then the finished panels rise to a height and are mounted on the upper crown of the walls.

What do these panels usually look like? These are hammered shields, the basis for which are two beams located in parallel at a distance of 500 mm from one another. The cross section of the beam depends on the length of the span, but it is usually taken equal to 50 × 100 mm - this allows you to achieve high strength of the ceiling structure - it will quite serve as a floor for an attic or attic. And, at the same time, 100 mm is sufficient thickness for full insulation.

The bars are laid out in parallel on a flat stable base at a distance of 500 mm along external parties, align the edges. Then pieces of board are stuffed on them with a thickness of about 25 ÷ 30 mm, a length of 600 mm. The width of the board does not matter - as a rule, they use the remnants of lumber, which, by the way, allows you to seriously save on such a ceiling. Each board is attached to the beam with two nails to ensure the immobility of the structure. The boards are placed in such a way that they protrude equally on the sides of the shield by 50 mm.

After the panel is knocked together, it is turned over with the bars up. Using stapler staples, a hydro-vapor barrier film is attached to its inner surface (shown by an arrow). Note that the top of the bars remains open.

If there are enough working hands, or there are lifting devices that will help lift the panel to a height, then you can immediately, on the ground, immediately carry out the insulation of the panel (unless, of course, we are talking about rolls or mats thermal insulation material). For example, the laying of mineral wool will not make the panels too heavy - but there will be no need to carry out this work in the attic.

Insulation mats are laid tightly in the gap between the bars, covered with a membrane. In order for the resulting structure to acquire additional rigidity necessary to lift it to a height, 2 ÷ 3 oblique temporary jumpers from the boards are placed.

1 - mats (blocks) of insulating material - mineral wool.

2 - temporary "oblique" lintels for lifting the panels onto the walls.

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

Panels are lifted to the place of installation. It could be upper plane crown, or a horizontal stepped groove on it specially selected for the panel structure. Another option is to attach a beam with a thickness of at least 50 mm to the walls along the perimeter, which will become a “shelf” for installing finished panels.

In any case, the place where the panels are laid needs an insulating seal. Usually, jute felt tape is used for these purposes - it will perfectly block the gaps between the wall and the panels.

The panels are laid close to each other, temporary jumpers are removed. After joining between the panels, based on their design, a gap of 100 mm wide remains. It was not left by chance: its purpose is to insulate joints.

1 - wall.

2 - felt tape sealing the joints of the wall and panels.

3 - finished panels with temporary jumpers already removed.

4 - cut out strip of thermal insulation material.

5 - boards fixing the panels to each other.

In each of these openings at the junction, at first, the same hydrovapor barrier film is laid along the bottom and walls. Then, a wide strip is cut out of the mineral wool slabs, which fits into the opening with maximum density (shown by wide green arrows). Thus, the cold bridge at the junction will be securely closed.

It remains to fix the panels together. First, a diffuse membrane is spread over them, which is attached to the bars with brackets. Then a solid board with a thickness of at least 30 mm is laid - preferably a length along the entire length of the room, that is, in total it should fasten everything together installed panels. It is nailed (screwed) to each bar. The same board is immediately placed on opposite side panel ceiling. Then you can sheathe the resulting surface with a short board, 600 mm long - this is how the attic floor will be formed. At the same time, do not forget that the long boards connecting the panels should go not only along opposite walls, but also between them, with a step of no more than 1000 mm.

From below, the ceiling can be sheathed with clapboard, using the same technology that has already been mentioned above.

Advantages of this method of ceiling installation:

• The main assembly and even insulation is carried out in comfortable and safe environment- on the ground.
• The design turns out to be solid - this is a full-fledged insulated floor for the attic, which can be usefully used.
• Such a ceiling can be mounted in rooms of almost any reasonable size.

The disadvantages include:

• A very large amount of work.
• The need for lifting devices or equipment, or the efforts of several people.
• Installation of such a ceiling must be carried out before installation truss system- and this is not always convenient from the point of view of the organization of construction.

So, the main types of wooden ceilings for a bath were considered, technological recommendations were given for their installation. You should carefully study all the advantages and disadvantages of each of the systems in order to assess the possibilities of its installation in relation to the specific conditions of the existing bath, weigh your capabilities, both in terms of the necessary building skills and in terms of material costs. You can’t make a mistake in such matters - a poor-quality executed ceiling will necessarily negatively affect the comfort of bathing procedures, and its alteration is an extremely complex and costly undertaking.

The bath building belongs to the category of structures with special operating conditions. The formation of a microclimate, acceptable for the adoption of beneficial procedures, and fuel consumption, and the time of warming up the premises depend on its competent device. The term "competent device" refers to a number of technological processes, one of which is the insulation of the ceiling of the bath. After all, it is precisely the insufficiently thermally insulated upper floor that contributes to the leakage of almost a third of thermal energy.

Heated air, obeying the strict laws of physics, rushes up. If there is no impenetrable barrier in his way, further work it will be used to warm the atmosphere. To stop such unreasonable spending, a reliable barrier must be erected. Moreover, it must be done in such a way that it does not contribute to the formation of condensate on the wooden elements of the ceiling, so that this moisture does not favor the settlement of colonies of microorganisms that destroy building materials.

Principles of thermal insulation of bath ceilings

Based on the design features of the roof, baths made of logs or timber can be divided into two types: buildings with and without attic space. On the way of warm air flowing out of baths with attics, there will be a much more powerful ceiling, in the puff cake of which heat-insulating material is usually laid during the construction process.

The under-roofing space itself, filled with air mass, also slows down the leakage of thermal energy, the insulation of the roof structure will also slightly moderate the agility of the "runaway" heat.

However, this does not mean that it is not necessary to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with an attic or attic. An increase in thermal insulation characteristics in it is sometimes necessary no less than in a building without an attic, where the heat seeping out meets few and too weak obstacles in its path.

The specifics of the vapor barrier device

In both cases, regardless of the design of the roof, before laying the heat-insulating layer, a vapor barrier is laid on the ceiling of the bath. To equip a building without attic space can be used as a vapor barrier aluminum foil, compacted cardboard, generously impregnated with drying oil, waxed paper.

In baths with an attic, the same materials are applicable, but most often the ceiling boards from the side of the roof are coated with a two-centimeter layer of clay.

Of the options offered by the industry, the following are used:

• standard polyethylene film (as for greenhouses 0.4 mm with variations) - a type of vapor barrier that is not very popular due to the greenhouse effect;

Note. Usage polyethylene film as insulation, it obliges to leave a gap necessary for the evaporation of condensate.

• special vapor barrier film made of polyethylene with villi to retain condensate;
• vapor barrier material of membrane type.

Vapor barrier is necessary to prevent the transit of wet vapors and their settling in the insulation. After all, the water accumulated in the heat-insulating material will shorten its service life, increase the weight of the multilayer ceiling system and, if we return to the course of physics, reduce the insulating qualities.

Three functions of bath ceiling insulation

The hotter the room temperature is required, the more difficult it is to build a barrier to retain heat. To solve this difficult task Those who want to know how to insulate the ceiling of a bath should familiarize themselves with the three main leak patterns:

• the movement of heated air through the cracks in the ceiling;
• gradual transition of heat from heated objects to cold ones;
• crossing homogeneous barriers by thermal waves.

Laying thermal insulation material in a multi-layer system of the upper floor prevents all types of thermal leakage. Properly made insulation will adequately perform all the work assigned to it. Due to illiterate thermal insulation, condensate will begin to settle on the floor, it will take much longer to warm up the room, and more fuel resources will be spent.

The choice of materials for insulation

Before deciding how to insulate the ceiling in the bath, you need to consider all the options for suitable heat-insulating materials.

• "Classic" mineral wool is used most often. In its chaotic interweaving of fibers melted from basalt, there are billions of air-filled voids, each of which works responsibly to retain heat. The disadvantage is the loss of insulating qualities when wet.

Note. When using mineral wool for ceiling insulation in bath buildings, it is recommended to lay a waterproofing layer on top of the insulation if the roof is not sufficiently protected from atmospheric water leaks. Between the waterproofing layer and the insulation, you need to arrange a heat-insulating gap.

• Super light foamed polypropylene - foam thermal baths are also often laid on the ceiling of the bath. Foil-laminated material was developed specifically for furnishing bath buildings and saunas. In addition to the insulation function assigned to it, it reflects the flow of thermal energy with its foil side. Working on the principle of a mirror, penotherm allows you to reduce the warm-up time of the steam room by 2-3 times.

• Expanded clay is suitable for large-sized bath structures. A layer sufficient to insulate the ceiling should be 30 cm. Although the material is relatively lightweight, it will inevitably increase the mass of the building. Its porous granules, like mineral wool, are susceptible to moisture. Waterproofing is also required.
• "People's" heat insulator. The first element is a 2 cm layer of crumpled clay. Instead, a mix of black soil and peat, wood shavings filled with cement mortar, a mixture of clay, sand or sawdust is suitable. A “carpet” of dry sawdust or leaves (preferably oak) is laid on top of the laid layer, and the insulation is completed by laying a layer of dry earth with a thickness of 15 cm.
• Growing aerated concrete, for the pouring of which is arranged the simplest formwork. The video will show you how this insulation bath ceiling: the video demonstrates unpretentious technology in detail.

It is difficult to recommend the thickness of the insulation layer offhand without knowing real sizes heat loss and technical parameters buildings. All figures are approximate and may vary. A lot depends on climate zone, because the ceiling insulation in the bath is not only a barrier to heat, but also protection from external temperature factors. If the ceiling outside freezes, moisture will definitely condense on the ceiling. In such cases, the thermal insulation layer is simply increased.

Ceiling insulation technology

Regardless of the material chosen for the construction of the bath, the design of its upper floor is almost the same. The supporting base is made up of beams supported by upper crowns from timber or logs or on the mauerlat of brick or panel buildings. used for construction beam ceiling timber is usually treated with an antiseptic before installation. But, if the fungus protection procedure has not been carried out in advance, the wood should be treated before laying the layers of thermal insulation. Particular care must be taken at the points of docking of building materials with different technical specifications. In such tandems as brick-wood, foam concrete-wood, wood-metal.

• From the side of the bath rooms, the ceiling is hemmed with boards, nailed from below to the beams.
• Roll-up shields are knocked together, which are two rows of low-grade boards perpendicular to each other.

Attention. The masters who carry out the insulation of the ceiling of the bath with their own hands, before the construction of the roll-over shields, need to make calculations. There must be a gap of at least 5 cm between the beams and the shields mounted on the skull boards. There must be a distance of at least 25 cm between the wooden elements and the chimney.

It is necessary to draw a diagram and, according to it, calculate the dimensions and configuration of each of the shields. After manufacturing, the shields must be numbered so as not to get confused during installation.

• Knocked together "boxes" also need to be protected from rot and bacteria with antiseptic impregnation.
• A vapor barrier material is attached to the bottom and inner walls of a shield resembling a pallet with a stapler.
• The shields are lifted up without insulation, starting with those that will be installed last.
• Having lifted all the elements up, they are arranged according to the marking. The lower plane of the shield put in place must coincide with the lower plane of the beam.
• After placement, the boxes are stuffed heat-insulating material. It is also necessary to insulate the gaps between the shields and beams.
• From above, the entire structure is sewn up with boards in a direction perpendicular to the direction of the beams.

Advice. It is not necessary to use a long board for the top sheathing, it can be alternated with rows made up of short boards.

Instead of boards, you can use fiberboard, home-made slabs of cement mortar with sawdust. finished ceiling need to be treated with a fire retardant, in the chimney area everything wooden elements sheathed with sheets of asbestos.

Thermal insulation for the steam room

The topic is separate, since the upper plane of the steam room should not only not let through, but also contribute to the accumulation of steam in the subceiling zone. Above the steam rooms, it is advised to lay two layers of vapor barrier material and supplement the insulation for the ceiling of the bath with layers of thermal insulation.

Design from Sosnin with Bukharkin

• The beams are hemmed with tongue-and-groove boards 2.5 cm thick. They must be covered with drying oil in two layers, which, according to the developers, should inform the lumber of moisture resistance.
• A low-grade board with slots of approximately 3 cm is nailed on top of the beams in the transverse direction. This is the so-called moisture gap.
• Roofing felt is laid on the boards laid with gaps, a polyethylene film can be used. It's great if the owner does not skimp on the foil with reinforcement.
• Fall asleep 20-centimeter layer of slag or sand.

Two more options for a couple

For filing from below along the ceiling beams, an unedged five-centimeter board is suitable. Outside, along the beams, a narrow board is attached to the capercaillie to support the filing. To this thin board, the facing of the ceiling directly from the tongue-and-groove aspen board with a ventilation gap is attached.

From the side of the attic, a vapor barrier layer is laid, then 3 cm of a layer of clay mixed with sawdust. Then mineral wool with a density of 125 units and a width of 15 cm and a PP film from the wind. At the end, the attic floor boards are mounted.

If the ceiling is made of logs, the ceiling of the steam room is sheathed from below over a crate built especially for it. Glassine is laid on top as a vapor barrier layer, then 20 cm of sand, everything else is optional.

If the owner wants his building to keep steam perfectly, you should find out in detail how to properly insulate the ceiling of the bath. Information about the sequence in which the layers are laid, how the ceiling design in the steam room differs from the analogue for washing department, will help to competently insulate the structure, which has become a symbol country life. The proposed device options can be upgraded in accordance with personal requirements and climatic features.