Quite often, when choosing a drainage system, the question arises: which one to install - plastic or metal. Very often, one of the reasons for refusing plastic gutters is that they burst in winter.
Let's figure out if this is really the case and why it happens.
Let us note right away: indeed, sometimes plastic gutters burst, but this does not mean at all that they are of poor quality or worse than metal ones.
Any material contracts or expands when temperature changes. For example, frozen water turns into ice and increases in volume. The same thing happens with gutters, only without changing their state of aggregation - they change sizes. The coefficient of linear expansion of plastic is significantly greater than that of steel, that is plastic drain changes its size depending on temperature changes environment more than steel. The coefficient of linear expansion is an important parameter that must be taken into account when installing and operating a drain.
U different manufacturers plastic systems The installation technology differs: some use adhesive connections, others use connections with rubber seals. In the first case, all elements are rigidly fixed to each other with glue, which prevents the system from “walking.” When installing such a drainage system, it is imperative to install special elements that will compensate for these expansions. In the second case, the role of expansion elements is performed by connecting elements with rubber seals, which eliminate leaks at the joints and at the same time maintain the mobility of the system.
To increase the service life of rubber seals, manufacturers recommend using silicone; it prevents premature aging of the rubber seals and ensures free sliding of the elements during expansion. It is important to clarify that you need to use silicone paste; it acts as a lubricant for rubber bands, and not silicone sealant, which hardens after some time.
Let's deal with real situation: we install a gutter on the eaves of a house 10 m long in the summer at a temperature of 20 ° C. The coefficient of linear expansion of plastic (polyvinyl chloride) is 70 * 10 -6 °C -1. In winter, the temperature drops to -20 °C, i.e. the temperature difference was 40 °C. With such a change in temperature, the change in the length of a 10-meter plastic gutter will be (10 m * 40 °C * 70 * 10 -6 °C -1) 28 mm!
Under the same conditions, the change in the length of the metal gutter will be only 4.8 mm (Coefficient of linear expansion of steel 12 * 10 -6 °C -1).
This is theory, but what in practice? In practice, when a plastic drain has nowhere to expand or contract, it does so anyway, resulting in the most loaded elements, for example, the corners of gutters, bursting.
During operation, it is necessary to maintain drainage systems: remove leaves accumulated in pipes and gutters. If this is not done, leaves and any other debris impede the movement of rainwater, which accumulates in the elements of the drainage system, and when it freezes, all this turns into ice, which, as already said, expands in volume, which is why deformation occurs, and elements burst.
Expansions also occur in steel gutters, but due to the fact that they are not so significant, and steel is stronger than plastic, the drainage elements do not burst.
So, we have figured out two main reasons why winter period Plastic gutters burst:
1. The inability of the drain to expand linearly with temperature changes;
2. “Garbage” in the system that prevents water from draining from the drain.
To avoid such problems, in the first case it is enough to follow the installation instructions of a specific manufacturer: use expansion elements; use adhesives and sealants only for those elements for which such a need is indicated. In the second case, it is necessary to inspect and maintain gutters 2 times a year - in spring and autumn before the onset of frost.
We hope that our article will help you choose a drainage system and avoid problems with its operation in the future.
Author: Ruslan Bakhmat
Number of impressions: 1424
Date created: 10/30/2017 16:19:49
Tags:
Operation of buildings and structures without an installed effective eastern system leads to critical destruction of very important architectural elements. First of all they suffer basements, then the foundation and base of the building begin to collapse. The load-bearing capabilities of these structures are significantly reduced, as a result of which cracks appear on façade walls Oh.
But this is not all the problems caused high humidity soils near the house. With a significant increase in the amount of water during freezing, soil swelling far exceeds the calculated maximum values. If the foundation has large stock strength, and the building is constructed of lightweight materials, then only minor problems with opening/closing windows and doors may be observed. But if the walls are made of masonry brick, and the foundation does not have such significant reserves of strength, then cracking of the walls is inevitable. Consequence - destruction load-bearing structures and elements, inevitable very complex and expensive repairs.
The destruction of the facade of a house in the absence of a drain is a matter of time
Important. When designing houses, no one takes into account the influence of the above factors in the strength of the foundation due to the lack of a drainage system. Such a huge reserve bearing capacity greatly increases estimated cost construction. It is always taken into account that there is a blind area around the house, and all water from the roof is drained far beyond the foundation or into special engineering sewer networks. Today, for these purposes, companies produce very effective, durable and reliable drainage systems.
Prices for gutters
Gutters
The huge number of design models is divided into two large groups depending on what material they are made of.
System type | Brief description of physical and technological characteristics |
---|---|
Such systems can be made from very expensive copper and other non-ferrous alloys or relatively cheap galvanized sheet steel. In all respects they occupy a leading position and are far ahead plastic products. The only drawback is the high cost. Because of this, metal drainage systems can only be seen on prestigious houses; they can be installed on places of worship, used for the reconstruction of historical buildings. | |
Cheaper design, has a lot of original design and engineering solutions. Individual elements can be assembled using special locks or glued; each method has its pros and cons. Advantages: speed of assembly and comparative cheapness. Disadvantage: low mechanical strength. |
We will focus on plastic systems in more detail. These gutters are used much more often than metal ones and have a pleasant appearance, subject to the recommendations of the manufacturers, they can be used for at least ten years.
But such operational properties can be expected only under one condition - it is manufactured by a well-known company that respects its customers. How not to make a mistake when choosing what to pay attention to?
Prices for different types of plastic gutters
Tips for choosing a plastic drainage system
This is an extremely important question, great influence not only on durability of operation, but also on installation technology. Before purchasing a system, you should complete the following steps.
- Ask the seller to show quality compliance documents. There is no need to ask for certificates, as most domestic buyers are used to; for our money we must demand respectful treatment. Moreover, average cost plastic drainage system is approximately 30% total cost covering the roof is a lot of money. Exact values depend on the type of roofing materials, but for the most common budget roofs this ratio is maintained.
- Carefully inspect the appearance of the system elements. If depressions are visible on the surface, then it is made of recycled plastic, worn-out molds are used in production, or technology is grossly violated. The most unpleasant option for consumers is made from recycled materials. This plastic has already served its purpose and has lost its original properties due to physical aging; intermolecular bonds have significantly weakened due to harsh ultraviolet exposure. Unscrupulous manufacturers crushed it, added dyes and used it again in production. You need to know that such systems will certainly fall apart after a few years of operation.
- Check the operation of the locking mechanisms. All connections must be made with maximum precision. The tolerance does not exceed tenths of a millimeter; this is the only way to guarantee the quality of the system, its tightness and stability. If individual elements they fit into each other too easily, or vice versa, they can be pushed in with great effort, then this is a sign of very low quality designs. You shouldn't buy one, no matter how attractive the price. During installation, many difficult and unforeseen situations will arise; in some cases, serious mechanical breakdowns or critical damage are possible.
Conclusion. The higher quality the system, the easier it is to install and the longer it will last.
Step-by-step instructions for installing a plastic drainage system
As an example, we will consider the installation technology of one type of system from a well-known manufacturer. The name and brand don't matter various types There are almost no differences in the installation algorithm. To carry out the work you will need a hacksaw and self-tapping screws. various lengths and diameter, screwdriver, measuring instruments, bubble level, tapping rope, felt-tip pen, silicone spray.
Important. Some manufacturers allow installation of military systems with sub-zero temperatures. Experienced builders We categorically do not recommend listening to such advice, everyone plastic structures should only be installed at temperatures above +5°C.
Step 1. Check the completeness of the system. The kit should include the following items.
- Gutter Can have different diameters from 90 to 180mm. The size must be selected taking into account maximum quantity water, but for most cases a trench with a diameter of 90–100 mm is used.
- Bracket for fixing the gutter. When purchasing, determine the quantity based on 60 cm increments. Add one more - it is better to provide for a reserve than to visit the store again. The brackets can be metal (fixed to the rafters and sheathing boards) or plastic (screwed to the eaves boards).
- Plugs. They are installed at the ends of the gutters; they can be on the left or right end.
- receives water from gutters and discharges it into pipes.
- Corners of the gutter. Change the direction of the gutters.
- Knees and corners. They connect several pipes into one and change their direction.
- Pipe mounting brackets, fix them to the facade walls.
Step 2. Mark the location of the drainage system on the house.
Marking the funnel position
During marking, several prerequisites must be met:
- the projection of the slope should pass above the upper edge of the gutter, distance ≈ 0–2 cm;
- the vertical projection of the edge of the slope should be located at a distance of ≤ 1/3 of the width of the gutter from its axis of symmetry;
- the maximum distance between the first bracket and the water inlet ≤ 15cm.
Step 3. Attach the first end bracket to the curtain rod. The bracket holes are elliptical in shape, which allows you to precisely adjust the position of the element. Level it horizontally, the gutter should touch it with its entire surface, such contact reduces concentrated loads. And they are very afraid of plastic products.
Prices for popular models of screwdrivers
Screwdrivers
Step 4. Secure the roof slab end bracket. During fixation, you must always maintain the slope of the gutter, otherwise water will stagnate in it, vegetation will grow over time, leaks will appear, etc. The slope should be ≈ 3 mm per meter. If the length of the slope is 10 m, then the difference in height between the first and last brackets is approximately 3 cm. Long slopes need to be divided into sections and several water intakes installed. If this is not observed, then it will not be possible to maintain the projections of the slope and the upper edge of the gutter recommended above. Because of this large number rain and melt water will flow past the drainage system.
Step 5. Stretch a rope between the installed brackets, it points to correct position everyone else.
After this, you can begin to assemble the gutter elements, this is a very important task, work carefully. You should always remember that after you start using your home, fixing problems with the drainage system is much more difficult than following the recommendations for proper installation.
Gutter assembly
Important. To increase the tightness of the joints of the plastic drainage system, it is recommended to additionally seal them with a special silicone spray. It performs two functions.
- During assembly, it reduces friction between the plastic and the rubber seal. The insert is not damaged and does not move from its technological place.
- After hardening, it additionally seals the connection and significantly improves the quality of drainage installation.
Step 1. Turn the gutter upside down. Use a hacksaw to saw off the gutter to length.
Step 2. Install the gutter into the prepared brackets and the water inlet funnel. Secure with special latches.
Important. Please note that the funnel is attached to the bottom of the entire gutter and is not used as an independent load-bearing element. This engineering solutions increases the reliability and durability of the structure.
Step 3. If the length of the gutter is not sufficient, then special connecting elements must be used to extend it. In this case, a gap is always left to level out the temperature linear expansions of the drainage system. The connecting elements have dashes; with their help, the correct initial gap between the ends of the gutters is selected, taking into account the air temperature at which the installation is made.
Step 5. In the corner of the building, turn the gutter. Select an element depending on its meaning. Always use a special silicone spray; responsible manufacturers sell it as part of the system.
Step 6. Install end caps.
Now we need to fix the vertical pipes.
Important. Never fix drainpipes close to the walls, always leave a gap of at least five centimeters. Otherwise, the wall surface will be constantly damp, and fungus may appear on it.
Pipe fastening
Step 1. Install an elbow into the socket of the water inlet funnel, turn it in the desired direction and secure the position with a special self-tapping screw. If the distance from the end of the elbow to the wall is too large, you will have to additionally insert a piece of pipe. It is cut with an ordinary hacksaw or grinder from a standard pipe. The hangnails need to be removed.
Step 2. Put on the second elbow; it helps give the pipe a vertical direction. Attach the first bracket to the wall. The fastening can be with dowels or self-tapping screws; choose an option depending on the characteristics of the façade walls. The first bracket should be no further than 15 cm from the knee.
Step 3. Pull the thread and use it to mark the locations of the remaining brackets. The last one is located near the drain to the ground, and the rest are symmetrical with a maximum step of 1.8 m.
Step 4. Secure all the brackets into the drilled holes, assemble the pipe and secure it.
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Aluminum ladder
The first option is simple, cheap and more or less acceptable. The second option is long, expensive, but very effective.
What to choose is decided by each developer individually. But it is much better to do this at the stage of designing a house, especially if there is a desire to connect the drainage system to underground utilities.
Video - Installation of a plastic drainage system
First, determine the location of the drainpipes. After this, in those places where the drains will be located, you need to install water inlet funnels. Installation begins with funnels in those systems in which water inlet funnels also serve as gutter connectors. In this case, at the ends of the funnel there are devices that hermetically connect it to the gutter. For adhesive systems, this may be where the adhesive is applied, or rubber seals for other types of plastic gutters. TO roofing structure funnels are independently secured using brackets. Therefore, the installation of a drainage system begins with them.
Before installing the gutter, you need to cut a hole in the place where the water inlet funnel is attached. To do this, you need to draw an outline, cut a hole with a fine-toothed hacksaw and clean the edges. After this, the funnel can be attached to the gutter.
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It is necessary to secure the brackets (gutter holders) at the distance recommended in the installation instructions. As a rule, plastic gutters require a distance of 50-60 cm, but no further than 10 cm from the edges of funnels, couplings and corners. The brackets must be secured in such a way that the slope of the gutters to the funnel is about 2-3 mm. To do this, the outermost gutter holder is installed at the highest point, a cord is pulled between it and the funnel, and, focusing on it, the remaining brackets are attached.
The holders must be attached to the wind (frontal) board. Before installation, you need to make sure that it is level. An unevenly installed fascia board can negatively affect plastic gutters and their performance. If at the time you install the plastic drainage system, the roofing, then the bracket mounts can be mounted on the rafter leg.
Typically, plastic gutter holders are used for mounting on the wind board, and metal ones for mounting to the rafters. On average, one holder can support up to 75 kg. Often this figure misleads many, and they make, in their opinion, the right decision in terms of savings - to install a smaller number of holders. This is one of the main mistakes when installing a drainage system. Because what is important is not the weight that the bracket can support, but the area of support for the gutter.
If you do not take this factor into account, the consequences will be very disastrous: the gutters get twisted, then sag, and after some time they simply break off. Therefore, such “savings” will result in partial or even complete replacement holders and gutters.
The level of the gutters is determined using a cord (the slope towards the funnels is about 2%). The extreme gutter brackets are mounted at the highest points
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Now you need to place the gutters in the holders, starting from the funnel. Insert the edge of the gutter firmly into the clamp located on the edge of the gutter holder, then press slightly until the structure clicks into place. Connect the gutters hermetically to each other using special adhesives adhesive compositions or connecting elements (depending on the type of system chosen). And don't forget that in systems with adhesive connection After complete assembly, it will no longer be possible to dismantle or re-install.
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In order to cut the gutters of a plastic drainage system, you need to use a grinder or a hacksaw. Then remove the burrs with a file.
When installing the gutter, it is necessary to place its edge below the roof continuation line. This will avoid “overflowing” of water during a rainstorm. Also, a minimal amount of snow sliding from the roof will get there.
Installation of side caps and corner elements
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Now you need to secure the corners to the gutters in those places where you need to go around the protruding parts of the facade or the corner of the house.
Corner elements gutters are mounted with marks in the same way as a funnel and gutter connectors.
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After that, side plugs are attached to the ends of the gutter.
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The installation of pipes begins from the funnel, that is, from top to bottom. For a small roof extension, a coupling or a combination of one- and two-coupled bends is used. The pipes must be attached to the wall so that the distance between them is from 3 to 8 cm.
A pipe bracket is installed under the outlet. When introducing pipes into the coupling, leave a gap of 10 mm to compensate for thermal expansion.
Using couplings, you need to assemble the pipes into one piece and attach them with clamps to the wall every 1-2 m (see the supplier’s recommendations in the instructions).
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If necessary, tees (pipe splitters) are installed at this stage. Tees are installed similarly to couplings.
The distance from the plug to the roof gable board or adjacent wall is at least 3 cm.
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You need to leave at least 30 cm between the ground and the drain. If you plan to install a linear drainage system, then leave 15 cm.
The lower outlet is glued to the pipe.
Tools required for installation of plastic drainage systems
Gutters are installed using the following tools:
- Roulette.
- Ruler.
- Pencil.
- Hammer.
- Cord.
- Hacksaw.
- Screwdriver.
Temperature conditions for installation of a drainage system
It is prohibited to install plastic gutters at temperatures below 5˚C. Otherwise, when cutting or fastening the pipes, they may crack from mechanical stress. Many plastic gutters cannot be stored in the open sun in their packaging.
How to protect gutters from contamination?
![](https://i1.wp.com/bus-rus.com/article/montazh-plastikovykh-vodostochnykh-sistem/zawita-vodostoka.jpg)
When debris or leaves get into the gutter, the movement of water through the gutter is restricted. Because of this, the system overflows, and subsequently the walls of the building become wet, and over time, the foundation may also be washed away. To prevent such undesirable consequences, you just need to install a leaf catcher. And plastic gutters are protected from clogging by installing a garbage and leaf collector directly into the water intake funnel.
How to protect gutters from icing?
![](https://i2.wp.com/bus-rus.com/article/montazh-plastikovykh-vodostochnykh-sistem/kabelnaya-sistema.jpg)
This phenomenon is fraught with deformation and collapse of the entire system. To prevent this, a cable anti-icing system is installed. You must first calculate the power heating cable And required number his lines. The cable comes with a regulator or self-regulating.
How to protect gutters from overflowing?
To prevent overfilling, when choosing a system, follow the recommendations directly from the manufacturer from whom you will purchase it.
A drainage system is necessary to drain precipitation from pitched roofs. If all installation and operation rules are followed, its service life is from 5 to 12 years. It often happens that recently installed system damaged and not only looks unsightly, but also does not perform its main function. This occurs due to installation violations and installation technologies. This article will help you understand the basic rules for installing a plastic drainage system, ensuring reliable operation of the drainage system for the entire warranty period and even longer.
All manufacturers of drainage systems must include installation instructions, which indicate all the features and nuances. Therefore, when purchasing, be sure to ask the seller for instructions. But all systems have general rules installations that should not be neglected.
The main function of drainage is performed by pipes and gutters. In order to attach them to the roof or connect them together, various accessories are used. These include: brackets, plugs, elbows, funnels, etc. Therefore, the procedure for installing a plastic drainage system consists of attaching accessories and basic elements in a clear sequence.
Read also: How.
Installation of a plastic drainage system
Stage 1. Installation of water inlet funnels
You need to decide on the number and location of drainpipes. After this, in those places where the drains will be located, you need to install water inlet funnels. Installation begins with funnels in those systems in which water inlet funnels also serve as gutter connectors. In this case, at the ends of the funnel there are devices that hermetically connect it to the gutter. For adhesive systems, this may be where the adhesive is applied, or rubber seals for other types of plastic gutters. Funnels are independently attached to the roof structure using brackets. Therefore, the installation of a drainage system begins with them.
Such funnels are attached with brackets to the roof structure. Therefore, the installation begins with them. If you purchased a drainage system with funnels that need to be attached directly to the gutter, and not to the roof structure, then the water inlet funnels are installed after the gutters are installed.
Before installing the gutter, you need to cut a hole in the place where the water inlet funnel is attached. To do this, you need to draw an outline, cut a hole with a fine-toothed hacksaw and clean the edges. After this, the funnel can be attached to the gutter.
Stage 2. Installation of brackets
It is necessary to secure the brackets (gutter holders) at the distance recommended in the installation instructions. As a rule, plastic gutters require a distance of 50-60 cm. The brackets must be secured in such a way that the slope of the gutters to the funnel is about 2-3 mm. To do this, the outermost gutter holder is installed at the highest point, a cord is pulled between it and the funnel, and, focusing on it, the remaining brackets are attached.
The holders must be attached to the wind (frontal) board. Before installation, you need to make sure that it is level. An unevenly installed fascia board can negatively affect plastic gutters and their performance. If at the time when you install the plastic drainage system, the roofing has not yet been laid, then the bracket mounts can be mounted on the rafter leg.
Typically, plastic gutter holders are used for mounting on the wind board, and metal ones for mounting to the rafters. On average, one holder can support up to 75 kg. Often this figure misleads many, and they make, in their opinion, the right decision in terms of savings - to install a smaller number of holders. This is one of the main mistakes when installing a drainage system. Because what is important is not the weight that the bracket can support, but the area of support for the gutter.
If you do not take this factor into account, the consequences will be very disastrous: the gutters get twisted, then sag, and after some time they simply break off. Therefore, such “savings” will result in a partial or even complete replacement of holders and gutters.
Stage 3. Installation of the gutter
Now you need to place the gutters in the holders, starting from the funnel. Insert the edge of the gutter firmly into the latch located on the edge of the gutter holder, then press slightly until the structure clicks into place. Seat the gutters together using solders, special adhesives or connecting elements (depending on the type of system chosen). And do not forget that in systems with adhesive joints, after complete assembly, it will no longer be possible to dismantle or re-install.
In order to cut the gutters of a plastic drainage system, you need to use a grinder or a hacksaw. Then remove the burrs with a file.
When installing the gutter, it is necessary to place its edge below the roof continuation line. This will avoid “overflowing” of water during a rainstorm. Also, a minimal amount of snow sliding from the roof will get there.
Stage 4. Installation of drip line
The drip line is being installed. It ensures the free exit of water from the under-roof space and directs it into the gutters. The drip tray is mounted to rafter leg, going 1.5-2 cm inside the gutter.
Stage 5. Installation of side plugs
Now you need to secure the corners to the gutters in those places where you need to go around the protruding parts of the facade or the corner of the house. After that, side plugs are attached to the ends of the gutter.
Stage 6. Installation of plastic gutters
We begin to install plastic gutters. This is done from the funnel, that is, from top to bottom. The pipes must be attached to the wall so that the distance between them is from 3 to 8 cm.
Stage 7. Assembling the drainage system
Using couplings, you need to assemble the pipes into one piece and attach them with clamps to the wall every 1-2 m (see the supplier’s recommendations in the instructions).
Stage 8. Installation of tees
If necessary, tees (pipe splitters) are installed at this stage.
Stage 9. Installation of drain
Branch installation drainpipe(plum). You need to leave at least 30 cm between the ground and the drain. If you plan to install a linear drainage system, then leave 15 cm.
Gutters are installed using the following tools:
- Roulette.
- Ruler.
- Pencil.
- Hammer.
- Cord.
- Hacksaw.
- Screwdriver.
Installation of drainage system and temperature conditions
It is prohibited to install plastic gutters at temperatures below 5˚C. Otherwise, when cutting or fastening the pipes, they may crack from mechanical stress. Many plastic gutters cannot be stored in the open sun in their packaging.
Drain pollution
When debris or leaves get into the gutter, it restricts the movement of water through the gutter. Because of this, the system overflows, and subsequently the walls of the building become wet, and over time, the foundation may also be washed away. To prevent such undesirable consequences, all you need to do is install a leaf catcher. And plastic gutters are protected from clogging by installing a garbage and leaf collector directly into the water intake funnel.
Icing
This phenomenon is fraught with deformation and collapse of the entire system. To prevent this, a cable anti-icing system is installed. It is first necessary to calculate the power of the heating cable and the required number of its lines. The cable comes with a regulator or self-regulating.
Overflow
Overflow occurs when pipes and gutters are not sized to handle the amount of rainfall that is likely to occur in a particular area. To prevent overfilling, when choosing a system, follow the recommendations directly from the manufacturer from whom you will purchase it.
Now you know all the basic nuances of installing a plastic drainage system. Follow the instructions carefully and you will undoubtedly be able to install plastic gutters in your home yourself.
The greatest damage to the walls and foundations of houses is caused by uncontrolled flows of moisture flowing from the roofs. Soft rainwater capable of washing the most stubborn finishing materials. For external thermal insulation from mineral wool or basalt felt, even a small stream of water can be a death sentence. It is not difficult to prevent such problems if you install effective drainage systems and drains at water drainage areas. Effective - this means that in any weather and the most extreme rains and winds, the safety margin and performance of the water collection and drainage system is sufficient for the normal flow of water from the roof without seething waterfalls.
What should be the system for collecting and draining water from roofs?
Before you start developing and installing your own plastic drainage system, you should think twice and not reinvent the wheel, but buy a ready-made kit plastic pipes and gutters for drainage and assemble the desired structure from them.
The system of plastic drainage and moisture collection from roofs must meet several specific requirements:
- The plastic structure of gutters and drains must be installed on a strong and rigid fastening so that the weight of water or a mixture of ice, melting snow and water does not break the supports of the system and does not cause the gutters to sag;
- Set the angles of inclination of the gutters that allow the flow of water to flow quickly enough to the drainage funnel or snail, but at the same time shock tidal waves should not arise that can overflow the edges of the collectors;
- The connection points between gutters and funnels, transition elbows, and drain pipes must be tight, rigid, and have a safety margin so that if even one or two fastening points break, the entire system will remain operational until repaired.
- All pipes and gutters of plastic drainage must be resistant to corrosion, frost, moisture and solar ultraviolet radiation;
Important! The most common “disease” of cheap plastic fakes drainage options is the appearance of a huge number of cracks from exposure to ultraviolet radiation.
The problem of fakes famous manufacturers very often confuses not only ordinary buyers, but even experts. Often, a well-known company sells the right to manufacture its products to Chinese or Vietnamese factories plastic fittings, with the condition of selling products only in the CIS countries. As a result, in Russia you can buy under one brand and quality system drainage, and a fake made from crumbling plastic recyclables.
Which plastic drain to choose and install on the roof of the house
Choice of the most effective system largely depends on financial capabilities and time. Most often for adoption the right decision There is not enough money or time, so you have to choose:
- If you have enough funds and opportunities, you can simply buy the most sophisticated drainage system that the seller or “expert” in the salon will offer;
- You can do it easier - choose a popular one trademark eg Döcke, RainWay, Profill or Eslon BV. It will be somewhat more expensive than buying on the market, and there is a chance of running into a fake, but in general, the plastic drainage designs of these manufacturers have a good reputation, which is confirmed by available reviews of products in the CIS;
- Use products Russian companies or enterprises with foreign capital that create a reputation through high quality products - Murol, Vinylon, Alta-Profile, Rohrfit.
Products Alta-Profile
The practice of working with the products of the companies listed in the latest list shows that while any of them is at the stage of conquering the market, the quality of plastic roof drainage systems is maintained at the proper level, so you should not be afraid to take risks and buy high-quality plastic products at an affordable price.
The list of Alta-Profile products contains everything you need to assemble and install a roof drainage system. The company positions itself as a manufacturer of both individual components for drainage and the proprietary Alta-profile roof drainage system.
If desired, Alta-Profile specialists can help install gutters, subject to the purchase of systems for their development. The work of Alta - Profile installers is estimated at approximately three hundred rubles per meter of installed drainage. That is, the price of an Alta-Profile specialist’s service to install a gutter will be equal to the cost of a meter of plastic gutter from the same company. For those interested, the website has a special calculator from the Alta-Profile company, which allows you to calculate the material requirements, estimate how much it costs to install a specific version of a plastic drain, and leave your feedback on the quality of the plastic drain.
It might be cheaper to just buy required kit drainage from plastic gutters, pipes and elbows, and install the drainage yourself:
- Plastic drainage gutters of a special configuration.
- Pipes and elbows for forming drainage outlets.
- Plastic drainage funnel with rubber seals;
- A socket for straightening the flow of water in the desired direction, this will ensure proper drainage from the base of the foundation of the house;
- A set of brackets and fastenings that allow you to fix gutters on the roof and pipes on vertical walls Houses.
For your information! According to the company, most plastic gutters do not have round section, and a special profile in the form of a semi-ellipse. This increases the rigidity of the structure and reduces the likelihood of water flowing over the edges.
Alta-Profile experts guarantee sustainability plastic fittings to frost and ultraviolet radiation. Polyvinyl chloride, in addition to its high durability, has good resistance to erosive wear from sand and dust. That is, scratches and abrasions will appear on the surface, but it will be difficult to see them visually due to painting plastic wall reinforcement throughout the entire depth of the material.
For situations where the structure of the roof of the house does not allow installation on the roof or rafter base sufficient number of fastenings and supports for gutters, the company proposes to use reinforced gutters with special profiled walls and reinforced sides. Thanks to this, the plastic drain will not sag and lose the angle of water drainage.
The Alta-Profile company offers several options for colors and designs of gutters and pipes. For conventional gutters, a gutter measuring 11.5 cm wide and a pipe 7.4 cm in diameter are offered. For roofs with a large roof area, you can order a design with an increased capacity of 20%.
How to install a plastic drain yourself
Almost all drainage systems sold under brand names are designed for a simplified method of installing components. That is, gutters and pipes can be installed without using special equipment for welding plastic. The exception is the system of supports and brackets. Before fastening, you need to establish their exact location on the roof or walls, subject to several simple conditions:
- Maintain the recommended angle of inclination of the drainage gutters to the place where the funnel is attached;
- Set the distance of the drain pipe from the foundation at a distance of at least 400 mm.
At the first stage, the place where the gutters are suspended and the line of inclination to the horizon are marked. The furthest point of the gutter system should be at the highest point in the catchment area. At this point, it will be necessary to install a plug on one side of the gutter. The second side is directed to the place of water collection. From fastening with building level and use a long ruler to mark the point where the next bracket is supposed to be installed. In this case, the attachment point of the next bracket must be set lower by a certain number of millimeters to maintain the angle of inclination.
After securing all the brackets with dowels or screws, you need to install plastic gutters and pipes. In their signature design they are assembled on rubber seals, snapping into the funnel and pipe clamps, as in children's construction set. In cheap versions of the drain, pipes and gutters can only be installed using sealant or branded glue.
The rigidity of the gutters must be checked. To do this, it is enough to install a load weighing 250-400 grams in each span between the attachment points. This is the average load per meter of gutter during rain. After a couple of hours, it is necessary to set the level and check the degree of change in the position of the pipes and gutters relative to the original fastening. With high-quality fasteners, there should be no changes in the angle of inclination of the current.