It is impossible to avoid blocking the walls of the house during rain, when large masses roll down from the roof. In addition, erosion of the soil near the house may occur, water penetration to the foundation or basement, which will also have a bad effect on the performance of the building.
How to avoid all these problems? They are easier to prevent than to deal with the consequences. And the drainage system will help in this.
The role of roof drains and their importance for the normal operation of the building
The main purpose of the organized water drainage system is to provide a controlled flow of precipitation from the roof of the building. The gutter is designed to direct rainwater in the right direction. With it, you can organize the discharge of water into a variety of containers (usually barrels or bathtubs), take it away from the building or send it to the drainage system.
The correct arrangement of drains allows you to avoid erosion of the soil, flooding of basements, destruction of house structures and adjacent communications.
In addition to all these important tasks, the drain also performs a decorative function - it separates the roof from the facade and therefore should fit as organically as possible into the overall architectural style of the building.
Types of roof drains
Depending on the material, the entire mass of gutters are divided into metal and plastic. Occasionally you can find ceramic and even stone plums, but this is something of an exotic and is rarely used.
Metal plums, in turn, are divided into:
- galvanized- the most widely used;
- zinc-titanium- almost not subject to corrosion, very durable, but easily deformed;
- aluminum- highly susceptible to mechanical damage;
- copper- beautiful, but quite expensive;
- lead- very persistent, but now rarely used.
Of all metal gutters, galvanized ones with a polymer coating are considered the best today, which protects the metal from corrosion, has high frost resistance, is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation and, thus, significantly increases the service life of the system.
Depending on the installation area, gutters are divided into external and internal. Internal drains are used to drain precipitation from flat roofs of multi-storey buildings. Small houses with pitched roofs are equipped with external gutters.
According to the type of connection of individual elements, roof drains are divided into systems with rubber seals and adhesive.
Gutter selection
Most often, the selection and installation of a drainage system and the installation of a roof occur simultaneously, therefore, they must also be ordered at the same time.
If the building has a complex roof configuration, then in order to calculate the drains, a thorough analysis of its area and geometry, as well as the necessarily possible maximum volumes of drains, will have to be carried out. An incorrect calculation will lead to overflow of the gutters, and the entire drainage system will become useless.
It is also important to choose a variant of plums that will be in harmony with the roof and facade of the house.
Ultimately, the whole selection process comes down to the definition of three parameters:
- the material from which plums will be made;
- dimensions of system elements;
- element shapes.
Before proceeding with the installation of drains, it must be remembered that each type of drains has its own installation features that are unique to it.
Manufacturers must indicate them in the instructions attached to the system. Therefore, when buying, do not forget to require documents for the drain.
The procedure for installing gutters
- First you need to determine the location and number of drainpipes. If the water intake funnels work as a connector for the gutters, then they are first installed in the intended places. At the ends of such devices there are devices for tight connection with the gutter. This may be a rubber seal or an intended place for applying glue. Such funnels are attached to roof structures with brackets.
- After studying the installation instructions, the brackets for laying the gutters are fixed at the required distance. In the case of a plastic system, this is usually 50–60 cm, for metal ones, the distance is greater - 75–150 cm. To do this, the bracket farthest from the funnel is installed at the highest point, a cord is pulled between it and the funnel, and then the rest of the hooks are installed along it.
Brackets can be attached to the frontal board (using plastic holders), and if the roofing has not yet been mounted, then to the rafters (metal holders).
- Gutters begin to be laid, starting from the funnel, snapping the edge of the gutter into the latch made on the edge of the bracket. The gutters themselves (depending on the type of drainage system) are interconnected using glue, soldering or connecting elements. It must be borne in mind that systems assembled with glue cannot be dismantled.
The gutters are installed in such a way that their edges are below the line that continues the roof. This will help to avoid water flows overflowing over the edge of the gutter, as well as during the sliding of snow from the roof, it will reduce the likelihood of it falling into the gutter (otherwise, the gutter may come off under the weight of snow and ice).
- At the next stage, corner elements are attached to the gutters, allowing you to bypass the corners of the building and the ledges of the facade.
- Side plugs are attached to the ends of the gutters.
- Installation of downpipes is made from top to bottom - from the funnel. The distance from the pipe to the wall of the house should be at least 4 - 8 cm. Pipe sections are connected by means of couplings and fixed to the wall in height with clamps located at a distance of 1 - 2 m (this is indicated in the system supplier's instructions).
- If the pipe collects water from two funnels, then tees are used.
- The lower outlet of the pipe (directly drain) is fixed at a distance of at least 30 cm from the ground. If a linear drainage system is provided, then this distance can be reduced to 15 cm.
What else you need to know about the installation of drainage systems
Roof drain care
No matter how well the drainage system is mounted, it needs regular maintenance.
Gutters, especially with an insufficient slope (less than 10 0), quickly overgrow with mud and fallen leaves. Therefore, for the normal functioning of the drain system, it is necessary to completely clean it at least 2 times a year. And if special nets installed at the top of the gutters can save from foliage, then this is not a hindrance to dirt.
Over time, drains may begin to leak. To eliminate small leaks, there are special rubber rings with titanium, but if the damage is large, you will have to change part of the system.
Rainwater flowing from the roof has tremendous destructive power. Firstly, the walls and foundation of the house get wet, which leads to their rapid wear. Secondly, water falling from a height onto the blind area knocks out and washes out the hollows on it in a short time. Concrete blind area can collapse quite quickly, as well as paving slabs. Thirdly, all the water flowing from the roof is absorbed into the ground right next to the house, which leads to flooding of basements and basement floors. You can list the consequences for a long time, but it’s already clear that it is necessary to drain water from the roof. To do this, a gutter system must be installed under the roof overhang, which collects water flowing down from the roof and directs it to the place intended for this on the site. To do everything right, you should familiarize yourself with what elements of the drainage system will be needed, what materials they can be made of, as well as with the technology for their installation.
Roof drainage system - elements
There are two types of drainage systems - external and internal.
External drainage system installed on roof overhangs if the roof is pitched (single-pitched, double-pitched, hip, etc.). This type of system is used in most country houses, so we will consider it in more detail.
Settled on flat roofs, where the roofing material has a special slope leading to a funnel - a receiver of rainwater, which then enters the drainpipe inside the building or in technical cavities.
- gutter. Serves to collect water flowing from the roof of the house. It can have a different shape and size, it is made of various materials. Further down the gutter, the water is directed to a downpipe, which directs the water to a water drain from the roof.
- Usually the gutters of the gutter system are not longer than 2.5 m, therefore, to install the gutter on the roof, the length of which is longer, it is necessary to connect the gutters to each other. The connectors are equipped with rubber seals, which ensure the tightness of the connection, and also serve to compensate for the thermal expansion of the gutter material.
- Gutter Angle. Various corner elements to outline the interior corners of the house. Provides excellent hydrodynamics.
- brackets. Various kinds of elements that are necessary to fix the gutters to the roof. It can be a long hook for hanging gutters, a short hook, a compact hook. All of them have a different design and are used in different situations.
- Funnel gutter. With the help of it, water from the gutters is collected into the downpipe. A mandatory element for the installation of a drain, with proper installation, additional sealing is not required.
- Gutter plugs are installed along the edges of the gutter so that water does not drain.
- Pipe. It drains water from the gutters. Further along the pipe, the water is drained to the place intended for this. Installed under the funnel and securely fixed to it.
- pipe elbow and drain elbow used to drain water away from the basement and blind areas of the building. The pipe elbow is used to change the direction of the downpipe. The drain elbow is installed at the bottom so that the water goes straight into the storm sewer.
- Brackets for fixing the pipe. They serve to fix the downpipe to the wall of the house, so that its position could not be disturbed by gusts of wind.
In addition to the above elements, a protective cap-mesh on the gutter so that debris, such as leaves, does not get into it. After all, a clogged drain begins to perform its functions poorly. Also, instead of a drain pipe, decorative drain chains can be used, through which water flows into a container or a flower bed located immediately below the funnel. Such a chain can be a real decoration of the house, if it is correctly beaten with other exterior items and you choose gutters that are organically combined with the chain.
Types of gutters and downpipes
Gutters and pipes are the main elements of the system that ensures the drainage of rainwater from the roof. On the market, you can purchase ready-made sets of drainage systems, consisting of various elements, after connecting and installing which you can be sure that the collection and runoff of rainwater is ensured. The main thing is to choose the right size. Typically, the gutter diameter ranges from 90 mm to 150 mm, and the downpipe diameter ranges from 75 mm to 120 mm.
What diameter gutter and downpipe to choose depends on the size of the roof of the house. For roofs with a small slope from 10 to 70 m2, gutters with a diameter of 90 mm are suitable, and pipes - 75 mm. For roofs with a slope area of more than 100 m2, gutters with a diameter of 100, 120, 130 and 150 mm are used, and pipes - 90 mm, 100 and 120 mm.
In addition to size, the elements of the drainage system differ in the material of manufacture and even in shape.
Gutter material
Gutter systems, including gutters, can be either metal, or plastic. Metal gutters include galvanized steel, aluminum, copper, titanium-zinc and pural gutters (galvanized steel coated on both sides with a polymer).
Although more resistant to water than the tin gutters that have been used in the past, however, they quickly fail under the influence of acid rain. Therefore, recently they are used less and less, and then only because they are the cheapest. But products coated with polymers, for example, pural, are resistant to corrosion, fading of the material, as well as mechanical stress. These gutters are available in a wide range of colors, so you can choose the product that best matches the facade of the building. Connection of gutters made of galvanized steel coated with a polymer is carried out using special connecting elements with sealing rubber bands, locks and brackets. And the brackets have a snap-on design. The disadvantage of such products is the fragility of the coating, which can be damaged during transportation or installation, and then rust will form at the site of the cleavage of the polymer coating.
varnished or painted in various colors, so they serve a long time. Products are bought ready-made and connected with rivets and glue for aluminum; special paste or silicone can also be used for sealing. In addition to finished products, it is possible to manufacture a roof water drain from sheet aluminum directly on the construction site by cutting the sheet and bending it in a certain way.
They are considered the most durable. They are made of pure copper without additional coatings. They are connected to each other with a seam or soldering. Most often they are mounted on seam copper roofs. Over time, copper oxidizes, acquiring a greenish tint, and later - almost malachite. This is the so-called patina - copper oxide. It gives the whole roof a certain sophistication. Against the general background of such a roof, the gutters and drains will not stand out at all, as if they are one with the roof.
When installing copper drains, it must be remembered that they should not come into contact with other metals - aluminum or steel, and the roof of the house should not be made of these materials either, otherwise the water flowing from them will corrode the copper.
Trough made of titanium-zinc may have a natural silver color, or may be specially coated with a patina. By the way, titanium-zinc is a material that is 99.5% zinc, and the rest is copper, aluminum and titanium additives. Titanium in this case gives a certain strength to the product, since zinc itself is very fragile. The gutters made of titanium-zinc are connected by soldering, during which special pastes are used. This type of gutters is the most expensive of the currently existing ones, therefore it is used extremely rarely. But it can last up to 150 years.
The most common. The plastic from which they are made is stained in its mass, so the color of the product is uniform and even if the surface is damaged, this will not be noticeable, as if the material was painted only on the outside. To make PVC more resistant to UV rays and chemical aggression, the surface of the gutters is coated with acrylic or titanium dioxide. PVC gutters are interconnected by means of couplings with rubber seals, latches and adhesive joints. The service life of a PVC gutter can reach 50 years, and all due to the fact that PVC is not afraid of corrosion, withstands temperature extremes (-50 ° C - +70 ° C), as well as heavy snow and wind loads. In the process of snow falling from the PVC roof, the gutters are not damaged due to the fact that they do not have a vulnerable coating. For example, if the ice from the roof scratches the pural, such a gutter will not last long.
Gutter shape
In addition to the fact that gutters are made of various materials, they can also have a different shape. The sections of the gutters are as follows: semicircular, trapezoidal, semi-elliptical, square and rectangular, as well as imitating the shape of the cornice.
Semi-circular gutters are the most common and fit any roof structure. Their edges turned inward and outward are stiffening ribs, which increase the resistance of the gutters to mechanical stress. Semi-elliptical gutters are able to accommodate and move a larger volume of water, therefore they are used to drain water from the roof of a house with a large slope area. Square and rectangular gutters are selected for a specific design, so they are not used everywhere. In addition, such a design can be easily damaged during snow melting from the roof, therefore it is mounted in a special way, and snow retainers are installed on the roof.
Whatever shape of the gutters are chosen, the pipes for them must correspond: for semicircular and semi-elliptical gutters - round pipes, and for box (square, rectangular and trapezoidal) - square.
Brackets - hooks for attaching gutters differ in size and shape, as well as in the place of fasteners. It is from the place of fastening that the shape depends:
- Brackets attached to a windboard that is nailed along the roof slope. Such hooks are called front brackets, they are screwed to the wind board and have an adjustment mechanism.
- Flat curved brackets are fixed to the rafter leg, if the step between the rafters does not exceed the allowable distance between the brackets for the gutter, and can also be fixed to the extreme lath of the crate or to a solid boardwalk.
- Flat curved brackets can be attached to the side of the rafters, only they must first be bent.
- Universal brackets can be attached anywhere: to the windboard, to the last batten, to the rafters in the front or side, as well as to solid boarding.
Usually the brackets come with the gutters and the entire gutter system, so they match the shape and color of the gutter exactly. For example, for trapezoidal gutters, brackets of a special trapezoidal shape are used. The same applies to other types.
The material of the brackets depends on the material of the gutters. For copper products, copper or steel brackets are used. For titanium-zinc gutters, only titanium-zinc fasteners. But for gutters made of PVC or galvanized steel coated with a polymer, metal brackets are used, which are covered with a composite sheath or painted to match the color of the drain.
The dimensions of the holders and brackets must match the dimensions of the gutters. Although there are universal models that can be adjusted, so they are suitable for gutters and pipes of any diameter.
Installation of a rainwater drainage system from the roof
Installing a gutter system on a pitched roof is easy enough to be done by one person with a partner. Although in the installation technology itself there are some important nuances and little things that determine the reliability of the entire system. If you doubt your abilities, then it is better to entrust the installation to specialists. The fact is that manufacturers of drainage systems for the most part give a guarantee for the product. If the elements of the system are damaged during transportation or installation, the warranty will be void. If you turn to professionals for help, you will have a guarantee not only for products, but also for the work performed.
If you decide to install a drain for water from the roof yourself, then the instructions below will come in handy.
First of all, you need to decide what material you need the drain from, what shape and color. Then it calculates how many elements are required. After buying everything you need, you can proceed to the work itself.
Fixing brackets
It is extremely important to correctly determine what it is better to attach the brackets to specifically in your case. Remember, the distance from the gutter to the wall should not be less than 6 - 8 cm. Otherwise, the wall will get wet, if not from sewage, then from condensate.
The next rule is that the gutter should be located with a slope of 5 - 20 mm per 1 m running, so that water does not accumulate in it, but rushes by gravity into the funnel and pipe. Therefore, the brackets must be mounted not on the same horizontal line, but with an offset. Before you start installing the brackets, you need to verify the required slope and outline it. Only then can installation begin.
How to collect water from the roof and correctly calculate the slope? We take the length of the ramp, for example, 8 m. The slope should be 10 mm per 1 m. It turns out that the difference in height between the upper and lower brackets should be 80 mm. If the length of the slope is more than 12 m, then it is necessary to equip two drain pipes, and make the gutter with a slope in two directions. Starting from the middle of the slope, the left side of the gutter should slope to the left and down, and the right side should slope to the right and down.
The topmost bracket is attached first.. It should be located on the opposite side of the drain pipe. It must be installed in such a way that the water flowing from the roof gets into it, but it is not in the way of the descending avalanche-like snow, otherwise the system will not withstand. The distance from the edge of the roof to the first upper bracket should be 10 - 15 cm. It is fixed with self-tapping screws.
The second is attached to the last lowest bracket. It must be fixed on the screws, without twisting to the end. Then a building thread is stretched between the brackets and places for attaching intermediate brackets are marked along it. The distance between the brackets should be 40 - 70 cm depending on the system, the most common spacing is 50 cm. All intermediate brackets are fixed.
Important! When installing brackets, it is important to remember that the gutters will be connected to each other and the bracket must not fall into place under the connecting element. Also, it should not be under the receiving funnel, but at a distance of 10 - 20 cm from it.
By the way, the receiving funnel is not installed in the corner of the slope, but 40 - 70 cm closer to the middle, at the level of the walls of the house.
Therefore, the last lower bracket must be rearranged slightly higher than the position on which it was first attached so that water can drain into the funnel.
Installation of gutters
Next, the gutter is assembled and installed on the brackets. Gutters are usually produced in lengths of 1 m, 2 m and 2.5 m. Therefore, the elements must first be connected. To do this, use elements with sealing rubber.
Plugs are installed along the edges of the gutter, and a receiving funnel / storm inlet is installed in the right place. The axis of the funnel watering must coincide with the axis of the hole cut in the gutter.
The gutter should have a slope not only towards the receiving pipe, but also away from the house. This will ensure safety and reduce the possibility of damage to the gutter during an avalanche.
The drainpipes are installed last. The drain pipe must be exactly under the funnel/drainpipe. The pipe is fixed to the walls with special holders or clamps. The fastening of the clamps depends on the material of the walls, it can be screws, nails, self-tapping screws or dowels.
Pipe holders must be placed at the pipe junctions - under each socket. The maximum distance between the holders is 1.8 - 2 m. The last element of the pipe - the drain elbow - must be positioned so as to drain water to the place intended for this.
Where to divert water from the roof
Well, the drainage system is installed on the roof, it remains to decide where all the collected water will be discharged. And there are several options:
- . A barrel or tank for rainwater can be placed at a distance from the house (about 0.5 - 5 m) from above, or it can be buried in the ground. Water flowing from the roof will accumulate in the tank, and then it can be used to water the garden or garden.
- If rainwater is not needed, and you are not going to water anything, then it can be diverted to a collection filtration well. A pit is dug in the ground, on the bottom of which a layer of rubble is poured. Then a concrete well is built on top, which is also half filled with crushed stone mixed with sand, and sand on top. This bedding serves as an absorbent element. Seeping through the sand and gravel, the water is purified. Such a well should be located at least 2 m away from the house, otherwise the groundwater level around the house may rise.
- . If a private house is connected to a central sewer, then rainwater can be diverted into it, but only by agreement and for a fee.
- Draining rainwater into a drainage ditch or pond. Rainwater is clean enough not to harm the ecosystem if poured into a drainage ditch or water body (lake, river, artificial kopanka). The main thing is to calculate that the water level in the drainage ditch does not rise too high in case of heavy rains.
The removal of water from the roof of the house is mandatory so that it does not undermine the foundation and does not destroy it. Therefore, if possible, it is necessary to equip a complete drainage system. If this is not possible, for example, this happens if the roof is sloping and made of natural materials - reeds or straw, then its overhangs should protrude at least 50 cm outside the house. At the bottom, it is desirable that water flow directly to the ground.
Properly organized removal of melt and rain water from a pitched roof will protect the roofing system, walls and foundation of the building from destruction under the influence of moisture. Modern drainage systems are made of durable aesthetic materials, are easy to install, blend harmoniously with the color of the roof or walls and give the house a neat, finished look.
Main types of materials
The elements from which the drain system is made can be made of metal (steel, copper, aluminum) or plastic. Each of the materials has its own advantages and disadvantages.
Steel weirs, made of sheet material up to 1 mm thick, are the most common today. Products differ in appearance, functionality and durability depending on the type of outer protective layer, which is:
- galvanization;
- polymer coating;
- zinc-titanium coating;
- copper plating.
In Soviet times, in our country, gutters, pipes and funnels made of galvanized steel were used for the drain system. Installation of a traditional design can be done independently, while it is recommended to use sealant for seams instead of rolling elements - this significantly speeds up the work process. The disadvantages of galvanized weirs include high noise, not the most attractive appearance and the tendency of the material to corrode. To extend the life of the system, the mounted structure can be painted with waterproof paint or varnish.
Polymer-coated steel drainage systems are more durable and resistant to corrosion, provided that the protective layer is not damaged during the installation process and operation of the products. This type of product is also more functional due to low noise - the polymer coating dampens the sounds of falling and running water. Manufacturers offer drainage from sheet steel with a polymer coating of various colors, making it easy to choose a material that matches the shade of the walls or roof of a house made of metal. Such a system can last 25-50 years - the service life depends on the thickness of the metal and the parameters of the coating.
Elements of the water drainage system can be made of steel with a copper or zinc-titanium coating. Such materials are not only durable, but also look impressive. The disadvantages include the high cost of products.
Metal drains include products made of aluminum and copper. Their use is rather limited due to their high cost. The advantages of aluminum elements include low weight, due to which the system does not exert a serious load on the fastening elements. Copper products ideally complement a roof made of copper sheets. Over time, copper oxidizes and becomes covered with a film of a noble malachite shade. The copper gutter system is heavy, which should be taken into account when designing a building.
Plastic drain systems are growing in popularity due to a number of advantages.:
- high precision manufacturing products and neat appearance;
- simple installation (using glue or special rubber seals;
- light weight (does not overload the foundation and roof);
- maximum tightness of the assembled structure;
- affordable cost.
There are also disadvantages - plastic elements that are fragile in the cold can be damaged when snow melts from the roof or due to the expansion of accumulated water when it freezes.
Do-it-yourself water drains
The roof drainage system consists of gutters, pipes and funnels. If the gutters can be made independently, it is advisable to use ready-made funnels (with a wide neck, overhead or through passage). The gutters may be rounded or rectangular in shape. With your own hands, you can make drainage of any shape.
The rectangular gutter is made from a strip of sheet steel, the thickness of which does not exceed 1 mm. To bend metal, it is easiest to use the appropriate machine, but you can also do the work with a mallet. The rounded gutter is half a thin-walled steel pipe, cut along the central axis. Pipes should be cut with sharp metal scissors. When using a grinder, the likelihood of rapid corrosion of sections, and then the entire gutter, increases significantly.
Do-it-yourself elements of the spillway system must be protected from corrosion with the help of protective and decorative paints and varnishes. Particular attention should be paid to the edges and joints of the assembled structure.
Weir system calculation
The calculation of the drainage system is carried out at the design stage of the house. When developing a roofing scheme, it is required to determine the diameter of the drains and the location of the funnels. On sale most often there are drains of standard diameters - 80 mm, 100 mm, 125 mm. Funnels should be installed with a gap of no more than 24 meters, the optimal distance between two funnels is 8-12 meters - in this case, a significant slope of the gutters is not required.
The ability of the system to effectively remove melt and rainwater is calculated based on the following parameters: per 1 sq. m of the roof (in horizontal projection) should account for 1.5 square meters. see sectional area of gutter and funnel. Calculation for a drain with a diameter of 100 mm: the cross-sectional area of the gutter is 78.5 square meters. see, which allows for the removal of storm drains from the roof, the area of the horizontal projection of which reaches 52 square meters. m.
Appropriate amendments are made to the calculations if the climate of the region where the house is being built is characterized by aridity or rainfall above average.
Having developed a general design scheme for draining rainwater from the roof, you can use a special program for accurate calculations, which is provided by various manufacturers of materials for installing drainage systems.
When designing a structure, it is required to take into account the weight of its elements. Particular attention should be paid to systems made of heavy materials, since they create a serious additional load on the foundation. In particular, it is not recommended to mount copper gutters and pipes on houses with a strip foundation.
The principle of installing brackets
First of all, it is necessary to choose the type of fastening of the horizontal elements of the system. The edge of the eaves overhang should hang over the middle of the gutter. Fastening of all elements must be carried out on self-tapping screws. There are various bracket mounting options.
- Gutters can be mounted on metal hooks fixed on the roof base. Brackets are installed before the installation of the roofing. To ensure the required angle of inclination of the gutter, the hooks should be brought onto the support at different distances. Funnel installation locations must be determined in advance.
Installation according to this principle is recommended for gutters made of heavy materials, as well as for snowy regions.
- Brackets are mounted on the rafters before laying the roofing cake. This option is suitable for relatively light drainage systems.
- Gutter hooks are installed on the front (end) board. This option is less reliable, since fasteners can be torn out under high load. The solution is suitable for plastic systems with brackets designed for fastening to a vertical surface, and is used when there is no danger of snow falling off the roof.
- Brackets are fixed to the wall of the building. This principle of installing gutters is practiced in the case of small cornice overhangs at home.
The advantage of the third and fourth options is the possibility of mounting the brackets after the completion of the roofing work.
Do-it-yourself construction installation
If the brackets are installed on the roof base, the hooks must first be bent - the bending angle must correspond to the angle of the roof slope. The first step is the installation of brackets for spillway funnels. Further, the distance between the places of installation of downpipes must be divided by the minimum allowable installation step of the brackets. This indicator depends on the material of manufacture of the gutters. For example, the recommended distance between adjacent hooks for steel elements is 0.9 m, for plastic gutters - 0.6 m.
After marking the attachment points, pull the cord, which will indicate the angle of the gutter. In order for the water to drain effectively, the height difference should be at least 2-3 mm per meter of gutter.
The sequence of installing elements with your own hands depends on the characteristics of a particular system. In some cases, funnels are mounted first, in others - gutters. The marking is carried out from the funnel, which should be located below the level of the gutters. The standard gutter length is 3 or 4 meters. The edge element is trimmed when fitting to length. Steel or aluminum gutters are cut with scissors for metal, plastic - with a hacksaw for wood. At the ends of a do-it-yourself line of gutters, an external or internal turn, connector or plug can be installed.
The gutters are fastened together with an adhesive or glueless method, on seals, using silicone sealant. The type of fastening is determined by the characteristics of the material and the manufacturer's recommendations. Between the gutter and the funnel, a joint with a gap for thermal deformation is usually provided, which must be taken into account when designing the system.
Between the funnel and the vertical downpipe there should be two elbows and a straight piece of pipe. In the lower part of the vertical drain, a standard drain elbow (a special elbow equipped with a 45-degree extension) is installed if precipitation is to be drained directly to the surface or into a rainwater collection tank.
Each of the varieties and brands of the water drainage system has its own characteristics, therefore, during the installation work, it is required to strictly follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
Maintenance of the drainage system
In order for the drainage system to serve for a long time, not only the correct assembly of the structure is required, but also timely care for it. A common cause of various kinds of damage is water accumulated in the gutters. With prolonged exposure to moisture on steel parts with a damaged protective coating, corrosion centers appear, freezing of water leads to ruptures of plastic elements.
The accumulation of water is usually caused by the clogging of the drainage system with leaves and other debris. Clogging also causes water flowing from the roof to overflow the gutters and overflow over the edges, falling onto the facade of the house. Gutters need to be cleaned regularly, especially during leaf fall, and it is recommended to install special nets on the funnels of downpipes to prevent large debris from getting inside.
In areas with snowy winters, it is important to take measures to protect the drainage system. To protect the gutter structure from damage by layers of snow descending from the roof, snow retainers are installed on the roof. To prevent the formation of ice and icicles, as well as to prevent freezing of water in gutters and pipes, a heating electric cable can be laid along the edge of the roof and in the drainage system - this solution has successfully proven itself in regions that are characterized by frequent alternation of thaws and frosts.
An effective gutter system, the installation of which can be done by hand, will reliably protect building structures and the foundation of the house from damage caused by systematic exposure to moisture.
One of the major problems in the house that the owners often face is the drain. If you already have it, perhaps it makes sense to improve it. Well, if it is absent, there is enough work to be done. First of all, you need to decide whether to study the information on how to make a drain from the roof with your own hands or it is better to turn to specialists. For an order, it is only important to find qualified workers, prepare an estimate and pay for the work.
If you want to save money and you have a desire to work on your own, we recommend that you carefully study the technology of the entire process, which will be indicated below. Snow, rain and other precipitation threaten not only the roof itself, but also the foundation, gathering around the house. In addition, you are unlikely to like it when dirt collects near your own house. And it’s not worth talking about water dripping from the ceiling. All this can and should be avoided.
Today you can buy professionally made and thoughtful kits, picking up any elements for them - from small fastener details to complex joints and corners.
If you plan to create gutters yourself, you will have to think carefully about what they will be made of and how functional they will become.
How to make a roof drain with your own hands: making a gutter system
Most often, for the manufacture of gutters, special polymers are used that can withstand high and low temperatures, as well as their sudden changes. They are produced by companies specializing in the development of plastic products for exterior design and building construction. System kits are quite expensive, and they are usually installed on the roofs of beautiful mansions and less often in simple houses in the private sector, despite the fact that they can profitably transform any structure.
Since recent times, drainage systems have been made of galvanized metal. Usually such elements are purchased in specialized stores or ordered from tinsmiths. Metal drains are more affordable and therefore used more often.Despite the low cost compared to other systems and not such an attractive appearance, galvanized systems have their positive features, in which they significantly outperform similar sets made of metal alloys or plastic. Their main drawback is the divergence of the connecting seams as a result of temperature changes. However, here a lot depends on the skill of the tinsmith who is engaged in their manufacture.
Steel drains can have a layer of highly resistant polymer paint. This improves their decorative characteristics and provides additional protection against corrosion.
Also, drainage systems are made of a metal alloy - zinc-titanium, which are also coated with polymer paints. The content of pure zinc can reach up to 98-99% - provide corrosion resistance. Titanium in the alloy is a guarantee of product strength, and a small inclusion of copper and aluminum gives the material high ductility, making it easy to process.
Such gutter systems look just as attractive as plastic ones, but they are highly reliable, as they better tolerate the influence of the external environment. Their disadvantages, with a poor-quality coating, include delamination of the polymer coating. For this reason, giving preference to them, it is better to buy kits from a manufacturer that has an impeccable reputation in the market.
All of the above materials are well suited for gutters - they are easy to process, install, and they are distinguished by their aesthetic appearance, harmoniously merging with the exterior of the building and becoming an integral functional part of the entire building, as well as an important addition to its overall design.
Elements of the drainage system
If gutters are bought in a store, you do not have to think about what and how to make one of the system components - the manufacturer has long thought through all the details of the roof structure. After taking measurements and specifying all the parameters of your home, you can easily buy all the details.
Despite the wide range of drainage systems, they all have approximately the same structure and include similar structural details:- Gutter - the main part of the drain, collecting flowing water from the roof slopes. As a rule, gutters are created up to 4 m long.
- Hooks-brackets, on which the gutter is subsequently laid. Typically, plastic brackets are used for systems made from polymers.
- Funnels that are installed along the edges of the gutters.
- Gutter end cap for left and right side.
- Central funnel, which is fixed using seals, grooves and glue.
- Coupling (connecting part) for the gutter. It can also be installed with glue or fastened with a groove connection using gaskets.
- External and internal connecting angle (90 degrees).
- Drainpipe with coupling.
- A screw clamp that tightens the connection of two drainpipes.
- Transition coupling - is used if it becomes necessary to connect pipes of different diameters.
- A tee connecting two drainpipes.
- Branches for connection of downpipes. As a rule, they have an angle of 60-70 degrees - different manufacturers can use their own standards. It is clear that in one system there must be elements with the same angle values.
- Hook bracket made of metal.
- A 45-degree end outlet - to direct wastewater into a storm sewer storm drain. This detail is also called a mark.
In addition to the presented elements for certain drainage systems, in addition to the brackets, the kit comes with a cornice scarf, which acts as an additional holder for the brackets or often performs their function itself.
Before you go to the store, you need to draw a drawing of the edge of the roof with ledges and turns, carefully measuring all angles. A drawing with detailed parameters of the drain must be provided to a specialist who must select all the necessary components for a complete set.
How to make a drain from the roof with your own hands: step by step instructions.
- If you are planning to use a galvanized metal system, then you can make the gutters yourself, since metal sheets are much cheaper than ready-made elements. From metal, you can make a square or semi-circular gutter, but a semi-circular shape is considered traditional.
Galvanized metal is easy to shape into a pipe of the required diameter, making bends at the edges so that they hold well on the brackets.
If you can make a gutter for a drain, then making brackets will also not be difficult. Their semicircle should be characterized by a large radius, since the gutter should be easily fixed and placed in the bracket. It will not be difficult to make a box-shaped gutter from galvanized metal. Its shape is displayed on a bar of the required size. One of the sides is made larger and folded to the side so that the water, flowing down, gets to the right place. After that, its edges are bent in a special way.
- If you need to make a drain on a straight section of the roof, then the gutter can also be made from plastic sewer pipes. These gutters will cost you almost nothing, because one pipe makes two gutters.
- The pipe at the end and at the beginning is fixed on two boards with self-tapping screws, in the upper part opposite the lower fixation points, one more self-tapping screw is not completely screwed in. A thin rope is stretched on their part, along which a straight line is marked. According to this marking, using a grinder, the pipe should be cut from beginning to end.
- Next, the pipe must be turned over and the whole process repeated. So it turns out, two halves, which will be in the role of gutters. Separate parts during assembly can be twisted from the inside with self-tapping screws. Using sewer pipes, take corner parts from the same system, sawing them along.
Video: creating gutters from a PVC sewer pipe
Of course, do-it-yourself parts are not as attractive as professionally made ones, but they do their job well and allow you to save money.If necessary, you can choose other components for the system, since in our time there are many suitable materials that can act as blanks. The only parts that will have to be ordered or bought are the funnels. Doing them yourself, without experience, will be quite problematic.
Do-it-yourself drainage system arrangement
Installation of the drain can be carried out in different ways (it all depends on the installation period and the selected fixtures). Optimal is installation on a rafter-pitched roof or extreme crossbar and fixing the roofing.
Our photo clearly shows the method of fixing the brackets, which are closed with a cornice strip. In this case, it acts as a shield for the spotlight, protecting it from moisture.
In other cases, the cornice strip is made from a board, and if the brackets are not fixed before laying the roofing material, then they will have to be fixed directly to it.
In some cases, gutter fasteners are installed on the bottom of the roof slope, but this is not the right option.
No matter how the brackets are fixed, their location must be calculated so that the water flowing from the roof falls into this channel, and in no case spills beyond it. This parameter directly depends on the protrusions of the edge of the roof. If it goes a long distance, sometimes it makes sense to use a mounting option that is installed on the roof itself.
Video: calculation and installation of a drainage system
So, having bought or made a drain from the roof with your own hands, you can proceed with its installation.First of all, you need to take care of the installation of the gutter brackets. Install them at a distance of 5-6 cm from each other, with a slight slope towards the drain. They must be fixed so that the overhang of the roof is 1/3 of the size of the semicircle on the gutter, and 2/3 of the gutter will “catch” water from the roof.
If the brackets are installed on a wooden cornice scarf, then, in order to see the fastening line and the slope clearly, carry out the following actions:
- to begin with, they install the bracket itself, which would support the high edge of the gutter, taking into account all the recommendations and rules.
- Next comes the installation of the last bracket in the row. It is fixed with a slope of 4-5 mm per 1 running meter. An inaccurately calculated and incorrectly installed system will not be able to work efficiently, and over time it will leak.
- Then, between the two brackets, you need to install a thin twine, along which the base line of the installation is marked. Further along it, the locations of other brackets are marked.
- Next, the brackets are fixed in the marked places. So the required slope of the gutter will be observed.
- The gutter is laid and assembled, a plug is installed on its raised edge.
- The gutter is fixed by putting the groove on the ledge of the bracket.
- If a ready-made drainage system is installed, then the individual parts of the gutter are attached to each other with connecting parts that provide precise sealing and mating. If the system is made by hand, then the gutters are overlapped, and then twisted with self-tapping screws. In this case, it is useful to make a thin seal, for example, from a rubber strip.
- As soon as the sewer channel is laid and you install funnels in it, bends and sewer pipes are mounted to them, which are pulled together with clamps in the joints. Drain pipes are attached to the wall with clamps. The use of bends will allow them to be placed along the wall so that the clamp posts do not stick out too much.
- If a storm sewer is built around the house to collect and drain melted or rainwater, then in some cases the pipe from the roof is connected to it or a cut pipe is placed with a mark directly above the hole of the drain or storm water inlet.
Attention! It is advisable to install a protective net on the gutters, which would collect fallen leaves or large debris at the bottom. Usually in large systems it is provided in the form of a strip attached to the edges of the gutter.
For a do-it-yourself drainage system, you can buy a mesh with a footage and lay it in a roll, which is fixed with plastic clamps.
Video: what should be the mesh to protect against large debris
Regardless of which drainage system you have chosen for your home, it requires regular preventive cleaning and periodic inspection. Even if a mesh is installed on the gutter, it sometimes needs to be washed, because, in addition to large fragments of debris, a large amount of dirt and dust gets into the drains, and the soaked fallen leaves themselves are not always blown away by the wind. If the drain system is clogged, all the accumulated water, along with dirt, can end up on the walls of the house.Taking on the independent manufacture of a drain or the installation of a finished system, it is necessary to correctly calculate all the slopes and parameters, complete the drawing and evaluate your strength in doing the work. If you are not sure that you will make a drain of proper quality, we recommend that you contact a specialist.
One of the most important parts of building a house is drainage. It performs 3 functions:
- Moisture protection. Due to a properly equipped do-it-yourself drain from the roof, precipitation does not flow down the walls to the blind area, steps and foundation. The protective function is the main criterion for a properly installed drain, because before its invention, the entire plinth could collapse in just 8 years after construction.
- decorative feature. There will be no stains on the walls, here the decorative function intersects with the protective one, because moisture destroys walls no worse than the foundation. By themselves, beautifully executed roof drains also give the overall picture of the house a complete look.
- Collection of water. Especially significant for gardeners is that the drain helps to collect moisture from rainfall. When finalizing, you can make a tap into a barrel, or other container in the immediate vicinity of the garden itself.
In this article
Preparatory work
Material calculation
The 2 main material groups for any such construction are metal and polymers.
Metal structures are more expensive, but stronger than plastic ones. In addition, you need to choose a corrosion-resistant material. If desired, any composition can be treated with a stainless agent, and then coated with a decorative spray, if necessary.
Metal drain can be copper, aluminum or galvanized steel (made from 1mm thick sheets). Each type has its own advantage. So, a copper drain does not need additional processing, is the highest quality and durable, but aluminum will be the lightest, and steel will be the cheapest.
Plastic elements will cost even lower than any metal, but they have a significant drawback: when the border temperature passes -10 ° C, the plastic becomes brittle.
Designing a drainage system. System elements
Before installing and assembling the drainage system for the roof, it is necessary to determine the number and placement of its elements:
Mounting Recommendations
In the course of work, it is worth paying attention to some things:
- Use cold welding and rubber seals. For a clearer joint and reliable sealing, these materials are best suited.
- Observe the slope towards the funnel. Even when installing a metal system, some deflections are formed that occur under prolonged exposure to natural conditions. Changing the inclination of the trough to the funnel side will eliminate the possibility of accumulation of excess fluid.
- Allow a minimum gap between the gutter and the wall. If the distance between the drain and the wall exceeds 50 mm, moisture flows onto the wall. To avoid this, the tightness of the gutter to the roof peak should be as tight as possible.
Tool preparation
For normal operation without interruptions and attempts to adapt improvised means, you will need:
- Roulette
- Screwdriver / screwdriver and a set of self-tapping screws
- Bulgarian saw
- Thread or marking cord
- Plumb, level
- Marker
- Silicone sealant and rubber seals (or cold welding)
- Stepladder, ladder, or scaffolding
- Sandpaper
Pipe installation
Brackets with fasteners
What the system rests on is established first. It’s great if the scheme of fasteners and the entire drain was previously drawn on paper. To begin with, markings are made taking into account the current slope of the roof. At this point, you need to calculate the degree of inclination of the gutter and mark the start / end points on the eaves. Now everything is connected along the line and the remaining fasteners are installed. 
When using metal in the design of the gutters, the brackets are spaced in increments of 1 meter, but if plastic roof drains are chosen - 60-80 cm.
gutters
With the help of self-tapping screws, the gutters are fixed to the brackets. Also, to eliminate the possibility of drain twisting due to sunlight, there are additional holders on the mounts. In their absence, you can solve the issue with a few screws or plugs. 
Installation of gutters is carried out on the roof, or the edge of the rafter system. It is best to carry out the drain system before the roof upholstery with roofing material, if this is not possible, the first option is used. To facilitate catching the flow of water, when installing the gutters, an indent of 1/3 of the pipe section is added. This allows most of the gutter to protrude.
For each meter of the length of the drain system, there must be a slope. In general, it is 3-4 mm to provide an unobstructed runoff path for water into the funnel.
To prevent the collapse of the structure with snow or ice, an indent must be observed. It is 30 mm from the edge of the roof to the top of the gutter.
Pipes
After fixing the main drain elements, vertical pipes are installed. At the same time, a gap remains between the pipe itself and the funnel, which can be filled with fasteners from the elbow fitting to the location of the pipe. This creates a smooth transition and aesthetic appearance of the structure.
To prevent water seepage, you need to tightly fasten the elements. Rubber bands, sealing glue, or cold welding are suitable if the system is planned from steel elements. In this case, the rubber band has the advantage of providing the mobility of the system due to the thermal gap.
collar
To place them evenly, you can mark several lines along the line with a plumb line: 2 clamps are used per meter of pipe. On average, 2-3 holders go to the wall with an additional mount in the middle. 
Guide elbow
It is mounted from the end of the pipe in order to eliminate spatter, as well as adjust the desired direction. The ideal option would be to make a ledge about 25-35 centimeters from the wall.
leaf trap
If trees grow near the house, the leaves of which fall on the roof during the season, then for convenience, you can make protection from them. It can serve as a simple construction lattice. When bent, it should form a bulge 1/2 above the level of the gutter, quietly fitting into it.
Drainage ways
The drainage system has been installed, it remains to decide how to use the collected water in the most profitable way.
Conclusion
Upon completion of all work and setting up the final water outlet, it will not be superfluous to invite a specialist. Perhaps some acquaintance who from the side will see what you did not see. Evaluation of outsiders is needed to eliminate unnoticed shortcomings in order to avoid their development in the future.
When you are convinced of the reliability, you must not forget about the care of the elements. If the structure is metal, check and renew the anti-corrosion coating about once a year. It is not difficult and thanks to such care, the drain will last a long time.
