How to make log cabins from round timber. Round timber house: construction technology. Partitions in a log house

Here Everything you need to know to build chopped "in the paw" wooden house size in terms of 6x8 m (6x6 m - its warm part and 6x2 m - veranda). Such a house is quite compact (which is important if your site does not exceed 6 acres), but spacious enough and convenient in terms of layout. However, we do not limit your desires, imagination and possibilities only to this option. Having understood the technology of building a log house, using our practical advice and "little tricks", you can build any other chopped wooden house according to your taste. All construction work can be done together without the use of special complex mechanisms. Our description of the practical methods of making a log house experienced master It would seem too detailed, but we hope it will help a novice builder to make his dream a reality. Building a house with your own hands is a great way of self-expression and active recreation!

Read the material carefully several times. This will allow you to clearly represent the entire technological process, the whole work as a whole, and when building a log house, you no longer have to look into the book so often. The work will go faster, and you will succeed!

The first thing you need to understand is professional language, which carpenters speak and which you and I will communicate throughout the book. So let's start with terminology.

It is known that the house should stand on the foundation, and you should start with it, but this is a slightly different topic, so the figure shows temporary linings instead of the foundation 1. When the opportunity arises (even after a few years), they will not prevent you from getting a permanent foundation.

A log house is a log building without a floor, a batten or a roof, that is, the main structural part of the house. It consists of several crowns, the number of which determines the height of the frame. The crown is a rectangular structure, consisting of perpendicularly laid logs, fastened together in the corners by a lock joint.

The first crown of the frame is the crown crown 2, the second and main one is the lower harness 3, into which the logs 4 are cut. Over time, it can be replaced. The crowns from the lower trim to the beginning of the window opening are called window sills 5. Next come the window crowns 6, then the window crowns. The first crown crown is the closing crown 7. The structure that serves as the basis for the roof is called top harness. It consists of two upper runs 8 and rafters 9. What are rafters 10 and corner veranda pillars 11, it is clear from the figure.

Let's agree to call the logs in the crowns, which lie perpendicular to the girders, transverse, and the crowns in which there are window or doorways, - cut. The logs forming the openings are called "shorty". They can be various lengths depending on the location of windows and doors.

Traditionally, as a log house was being built in Russia, logs were processed at a height. In some films, you probably saw how a carpenter, sitting astride a log, famously and quickly wields an ax. Let's take a closer look at what operations it performs. First of all, he needs to drag the prepared log up. Then, having made the markup, make a felling along it and lay the log in the place determined for it. Agree, such work at height requires great qualifications and skill. You, as a novice carpenter, are unlikely to be able to process the log with the required accuracy the first time. Surely you will have to repeatedly remove and re-lay the log, adjusting it in place. The slightest carelessness in such manipulations leads to injury. You can make your work easier and significantly protect yourself by installing scaffolding. They must be made comfortable and reliable, supporting not only your weight, but also the weight of the processed log. Therefore, the installation of such scaffolding requires a lot of additional building material and time. But even if all the requirements are met, working at height with an ax (including scaffolding) without sufficient skill is dangerous!

We offer you to build a log house in parts, each of which has a height of human growth. This method is called cutting with subsequent shifting. It consists in the fact that the individual parts of the log house, after being made on the ground, are disassembled and transferred to the main log house. Relays will allow you to do all the work with the ax while standing on the ground, and outdoor scaffolding will not be needed. AT this case we use two translations, since, in our opinion, this best option for the beginner builder. Let you not be confused by the time spent on additional disassembly and assembly of crowns. They are more than offset by the convenience and safety of work, for a well-equipped workplace- pledge high performance labor. You will learn more about how the translation is carried out later, but for now we will continue our acquaintance with the terminology.

The part of the tree trunk adjacent to the root is called the butt. Starting to cut a house, you should know that there is no perfectly even log. Any log has a slope, that is, it decreases in diameter from butt 1 to top 2. Therefore, when stacking logs one on top of another, it is necessary to alternate butts and tops.

When assembling a log house, in order for one crown to adjoin the other more closely, groove 3 is selected along the logs. Another frequently performed operation when processing logs is the manufacture of edging 4.

The end of the log, hewn from two parallel sides, is called a "doodle" 5, the planes formed in this case are called cheeks 6, and the raw, convex surface is called wane 7.

The main structural elements of the log house, which serve as locking joints of logs, are “paw” 8 and “ dovetail» 9. For additional fastening of logs in the crowns, a dowel 10 - pocket 11 connection is used, and the pillars and rafters are securely installed with the help of spikes 12.

You should pay special attention to the selection of the instrument. The most important of them is a carpenter's ax 1. It should fit your weight and fit comfortably in your hand. The purpose of tools such as chisel 2, plumb line 3, hacksaw 4, two-handed saw 5, bracket 6, bayonet shovel 7, as well as tape measure 8, ruler 9, square 10, colored pencils or wax crayons 11 should not raise questions. A low-stretch cord 12 and an awl 13 are used for marking, and a level 14 is used to check the horizontal position. To make a level, take an elastic rubber hose 5-8 m long, about 1 cm in diameter, the ends of which are put on two transparent glass tubes of the same diameter, 15-20 cm long. The resulting device is filled with tinted water. In addition to the level, you yourself need to make a template 15 from plexiglass 2-3 mm thick and line 16 - the main marking tools, as well as “babu” 17 - the main “impact” tool made from a birch chock with two brackets hammered into it.

If you have the opportunity to purchase a chainsaw - do not miss it. A chainsaw will greatly facilitate your work, save your time and energy.

To avoid injuries and other “troubles” during construction, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the pages of special working methods and safety precautions.

You need to start construction with logging. It is best to use conifers - pine and spruce. Aspen is good for making log cabins for baths and wells - it is not afraid of water. But birch cannot be used, as it quickly begins to rot and behaves very “capriciously” during processing. Since it burns well and gives a lot of heat, save it for your fireplace. After the forest is cut down, it must be debarked and dried.

Note: the indicated dimensions are chosen with a margin for trimming.

Now let's choose a place for the construction site. From the side of the future veranda, it is necessary to provide a place for assembling the components of the log house. Then you can start marking the plan of the future home, which is done using a low-stretch cord and pegs. Our task is to get right angles.

The basic rule of the builder - markup determines the quality

We will implement it in the following way. We determine point 1. Set aside 800 cm from it and get point 2. On a cord 1600 cm long, measure 600 cm and tie a knot. We fix the ends of the cord at points 1 and 2. Taking the knot, we stretch the cord and get the desired point 3. Similarly, we find point 4. We mark the points obtained with pegs and check with a tape measure all the required distances and the equality of the diagonals with an accuracy of ~ 3 cm.

Next, we will make and install linings for the log house (temporary foundation). Choose wooden chocks about 1 m long and at least 30 cm in diameter. Aspen is good for lining. It is resistant to moisture if it is pre-barked.

Linings must be installed under the purlins of the flashing crown, near the corners of the log house, in order to ensure the correct distribution of the load. The pads are installed according to the level with an accuracy of ~ 5 cm.

Making edging is the most common operation in the processing of logs. In order to complete it, it is necessary to trim the log to size, choose a side for the edge, position the future edge plane approximately vertically, and fix the log with brackets. Do not be alarmed if the log has a curvature. It won't stop you from using it.

On a plumb line at the ends of the log, we draw vertical lines that define the plane of the edge.

We fix the cord with awls in the plane of the edge. Then we make a visual check, looking from the end of the log, and adjust the position of the cord. With a colored pencil we transfer the projection of the cord onto the log. To obtain the second edge line, repeat the same operations by turning the log over.

After that, we fix the log for the teska with brackets, but not much, so that you don’t have to knock them out later with a crowbar. Let's position the plane of the future edging vertically, make notches and, having hewed the log, we will get the edging.

Having a chainsaw, instead of notches, you can make cuts, which will significantly speed up the work.

Finally, we proceed directly to the manufacture of the log house. We begin to make a frame from eight-meter logs (runs) of the overlay crown, on one side of which an edging is made about 10 cm wide. Now we need to process the ends of the runs.

First, cut down the "boobs" with a width of 2/3-3/4 of the diameter of the log. The length of the “doodle” L is a constant value equal to the maximum diameter of the logs of the log house.

At the end of the "doodle" we select point 1, through it we draw the line of the "paw" according to the template with an extension inside the house.

Similarly, according to the template, through point 2 on the outer cheek and through point 3 on the inner cheek, we draw a line of “paws”.

We draw vertical lines on the cheeks of the log, spaced from the end by the width of the "doodle" of the counter log, and we get points 4 and 5. We make a vertical cut down to line 4-5.

Then it is necessary to lay transverse logs on the “paws” of the runs with “blocks” and, fixing them with brackets, check and correct the dimensions of the log house.

Now you can fasten the runs with linings tightly with staples.

Drawing is a parallel transfer of the points of the junction lines of the lower log to the upper one. The opening of the line when drawing the “paw” of the overlay crown is chosen to be minimal, but such that the line of the “paw” of the transverse log does not fall on the wane.

In the process of drawing a log, the solution of the line cannot be changed! Let's draw the lines washed down from top to bottom, mark the top of the "paw", and then cut it down. Let's make an average “dummy” on the runs.

To simplify the cutting out of the cheeks of the middle “doodle”, we will make cuts.

According to the width of the “doodle” of the transverse log, we will cut down the “dovetail” in the run. With the help of the line, we transfer the lines of the “dovetail” to the “doodle” of the transverse log and cut it down. Let's lay the middle transverse log on the runs of the crown crown.

Now let's take a look at the bottom strap. Let's make "doodles" on the runs of the lower trim, lay them over the runs of the flashing crown. Using linings and a level, it is necessary to ensure that the upper parts of the runs are horizontal and lie in the same plane with an accuracy of ~ 3 cm. It should be borne in mind that the butts and tops in the crowns alternate. We fix the runs with brackets.

For drawing, we select a line solution corresponding to the maximum gap between the logs, plus 1-1.5 cm.

Let's check the selected solution of the feature along the ends of the log. It must be greater than distance 1-2 on both ends. Point 2 - the border of the wane and the inner cheek.

Let's mark the top of the "paws" under the transverse logs.

For further work, we need to master the operation of sampling the groove. Along the entire length of the groove, we will make cruciform notches with the “heel” of the ax, and select wood with the “toe” of the ax along the groove lines. When these two operations are combined, a groove is formed.

After that, you should cut down the "paws" and, having laid the log in place, check the tightness of its fit. To do this, the stacked log should lie on the inner cheeks with a slight overhang. When tilted, it will easily fall into the right place. Then we return the log to its original position and evenly lay the underlying log with tow (moss). Now you can finally lay the top log on it.

Next, three transverse logs of the lower trim should be made and laid on the runs. To complete the lower trim, it remains only to embed the logs. On the runs of the lower strapping, we outline the places for inserting the lag. As a zero mark (upper lag level), we select approximately the middle of the transverse log of the lower trim. Let's move the zero mark to the corners of the log house and make notches. We put the finished logs in place, outline, and then cut down their contour to the level of the tie-in. Let's beat the lags with a "woman".

In the course of work, you may encounter typical errors.

The log "plays" (the gap between the "paws", loose fit of the log in the groove):

the reason is a knot on the lower log or a poor selection of the groove; correction - cut down the knots on the lower log, knock the upper log with a “woman”, select the places of wrinkling in the groove.

The gap between the "paws":

the reason is that the opening of the line when drawing the “paw” was greater than the opening of the line when drawing the groove, or there was a “blockage” of the line; correction - with a line with a solution equal to the width of the gap, draw a groove on both sides of the log and make a selection.

The log "hangs" on the "legs" (loose fit of the log in the groove, there is no gap between the "legs"):

the reason is that the opening of the line when drawing the groove is greater than the opening of the line when drawing the “paw”; correction - with a line with a solution equal to the width of the gap 1, draw "paws" 2 and trim them.

It should be said that the following gap sizes are acceptable: in the "paw" - 0.5 cm, in the groove - 1.5 cm.

Now it's the turn of laying the first window sill crown. Let's mark first doorway. It should be noted that openings (both window and door) are made 5-10 cm smaller than the design size. Split logs are fixed with dowels, for which markings are applied on both sides of the logs.

To mark the axial lines of the dowel on both logs, it is necessary to remove the "short" (log in a split crown). Then, along the center line, the pockets for the dowel are selected with a chisel. The total depth of the pockets should be 1 cm more than the height of the dowel. The dowel should fit tightly into the pocket.

When laying the crowns, a constant check with a plumb line of the verticality of the corners should be carried out. The last window sill in the doorway goes uncut. The uncut log of this crown is also planted on two dowels.

Tow (moss) does not fit under the logs of the last window sill crown, since this crown is removed for the first re-laying. Starting the shifting, first from the zero level we set aside the same distance upwards and make notches at the corners of the removable crown. Then we will remove the last window sill crown and install it on the ground, placing linings 15-20 cm high. In this case, it is necessary to observe the verticality of the cheeks. Using the level, restore the horizontality of the crown along the notches. Let's check the equality of the diagonals in the corners.

Let's start laying out the window crowns, having previously marked window openings. Recommended height of openings: windows - 110-130 cm, doors - 180-190 cm. "Shorty" window rims are fastened with dowels. Let's lay the closing crown, which consists of continuous logs, and put it on the dowels, transferring the zero mark to its corners. Draw a vertical line at the corners of the frame to be moved, which serves as a control during assembly.

Now it is possible, having marked the logs, to shift them to the main frame, laying each crown with moss or tow. For convenience in work, we recommend making simple scaffolding inside the house at the level of the window sill, for which you install chocks in the corners of the house and fasten them together with poles (two poles along each side of the log house). For the stability of the scaffolding, the poles in pairs must rest against the opposite walls of the log house.

The upper harness consists of two upper runs and rafters. At the ends of the runs, "boobs" are performed, and in the middle - only the inner cheeks. For correction, we will lay the upper runs (eight meters) on the transverse logs of the last window crown (the top of the “paws” on them is not necessary).

Check and correct dimensions A-B, S-D. Using linings and staples, we will achieve the horizontal top of the runs.

Let's transfer the lines of the inner cheeks of the runs to the transverse logs. Having rolled back the run, we will cut down the “paw” on the extreme transverse log, and the “dovetail” on the middle one. Let's make the cheeks in the upper runs, respectively, the "dovetail" of the transverse log. On the bottom side runs, we will make pockets 4 cm deep for spikes of veranda pillars. Again we will lay the runs and, having drawn them, we will cut them into the appropriate place.

We will prepare logs for rafters with a length of 7 m. All of them, except for one, should be hewn into two parallel edges, obtaining sleepers of the same thickness (at least 15 cm). We will cut the raw end rafter with a “dovetail” into the run so that its top is horizontal.

Let's mark the tie-in points of the remaining processed rafters on the upper runs. Then we cut the rafters (checking by level), cutting the run by no more than 1/4 of the diameter.

You can also correct the upper level of the rafter by cutting it itself, but not more than 1/4 of the thickness.

Next, we make platforms for the rafter legs and under the wind board on the extreme (first) rafter (flush with the rest). If necessary, it should be precipitated by re-drawing. Pull the cord along the ends of the extreme rafters and align the rest along it.

Make marks on the substrings and runs for subsequent alignment and mark them.

On the veranda sub-rafter, make pockets for poles (the number is determined by the design of the veranda). To eliminate the gap between the level of the lower edge of the rafters (ceiling) and the last log of the veranda wall, draw and cut in a log - a “plug”.

Now let's start making rafters. The choice of material, marking and manufacturing of rafters require special care and accuracy, since the strength of the roof depends on their quality. Rafter blanks are selected with the least number of knots. In no case should knots fall on the top of the workpiece, because the tenon in this place will be significantly weakened. It is allowed that the rafters have a slight curvature in the plane of the roof slope. The length of the blanks is determined by the angle of the roof and the length of the rafters. In our case, the angle of inclination is 45°.

Prepared blanks of rafters must be disassembled in pairs and numbered. On the blanks of the rafters, the side on which the crate will be attached should be flat, without protruding knots.

Let's start marking the base of the rafters. Let's make a wash down along the ellipse line and cut the workpiece under the spike, and then, having made the end cut, cut down the spike itself. Next, mark, cut down and cut down the tops of the rafters. We will disassemble the finished rafters in pairs and install them to fit and check the quality of the connections to the rafters. Adjustment is carried out by trimming the spikes or widening and deepening the pockets.

Sometimes they simplify the work on the manufacture of rafters. At the tops they are connected into half-logs, and the bases are attached to the rafters with nails without making a spike. By simplifying the task for yourself, you significantly weaken the rafters and reduce the life of the roof in advance.

Now let's remove the rafters and proceed to the last shift, not forgetting to lay the tow (moss). Then we will lay all the rafters, except for the verandah, and fasten them with brackets apart, in order to avoid their rotation along the axis.

We have come to the final stage of construction - the manufacture of pillars. In a log house, the pillars form the frame of the veranda and, according to their functional purpose, are divided into corner, door, window and intermediate ones. Corner posts are a support for the upper runs, door and window frames are attached to the door and window frames. Intermediate pillars do not carry any additional load and are only a frame for sheathing. Nai large area in the section they should have corner posts, the smallest - intermediate. The distance between the intermediate pillars is determined depending on the length of the boards used for sheathing the veranda, but in any case should be no more than 1.5 m.

The manufacture of corner posts begins with determining their length and marking pockets. For the convenience of marking, we will make a “fishing rod”, at the end of which we will fix a plumb line. With the help of such a device, we will design any of the corners of the upper pocket onto the platform of the veranda transverse log of the lower strapping, while obtaining the distance H. Using the designed corner, we will restore the reciprocal pocket at the bottom.

Corner posts must be processed into three edges, and the distance between two parallel edges should be at least 16 cm. Next, the post should be cut to size.

Then we will make a pocket for the lower spike with a depth of 7 cm. We will install the corner posts, placing linings 5 ​​cm high, which should be removed six months later, after the log house shrinks.

Having installed the corner posts, we put the verandah rafters in place and fix them with brackets. The rest of the pillars must be made and installed after shrinkage of the log house. Door and window pillars, as well as corner ones, are processed into three edges, the rest - into two. The lower spike of all pillars, except for the corner ones, should be 3 cm long.

The installation of the remaining pillars should begin from the side of the log house, grabbing the already installed pillars to the upper run (veranda sub-rafter) with brackets.

The final operation is the installation of rafters. For its implementation, it is necessary to lay bridges from poles (boards) across the rafters, prepare jibs from poles about 1.5 m long according to the number of rafters and nails 100 mm long. Lay out the rafter legs on the rafters, orienting the spikes opposite the pockets.

We will collect the tops of the rafters with nails and install them, securing them with jibs. When installing the extreme rafters, a plumb line should be used.

It is more convenient to install rafters with three people. Raising the rafters, you should simultaneously move forward, and fixing the spikes of the rafter legs in the pockets, fix them with jibs, checking the verticality of the rafters.

It remains only to fasten the rafter legs with rafters with thin brackets.

So, the log house is ready! But a log cabin is not yet a house. Next, you will need to make a foundation, sew up the gables, cover the roof, fold the stove or fireplace, lay the floors, sheathe the veranda, embed window and door blocks etc., in general, a lot of interesting work awaits you.

The project of a log house offered by us is universal. If its dimensions are proportionally reduced, it will turn out to be very good log house baths, for example, with a size of 4x4 m. By the way, with such a building it is better to start learning carpentry, gain the necessary skills, gain self-confidence, and then you can safely offer your services in construction to other gardeners.

Today there is a lot of interest in the construction wooden houses, including vintage technology log house. This is due to the desire of people to live in an environmentally friendly home.

Log houses are popular due to their environmental friendliness.

Meanwhile, in order to satisfy such a desire, one has to remember the architectural and construction secrets of their ancestors. There are quite a few of these secrets, and one of them is knowing how to chop a log house into a bowl.

In practice, there is nothing particularly difficult in mastering this technique, although carelessness and arrogance are unacceptable here. It is necessary to carefully understand some of the subtleties and understand what a log house in a bowl is and why it is good.

Cutting a log house into a bowl: its pros and cons

This method of constructing building frames brought into modern times the spirit of an old Russian dwelling, reliable, charming with its folk style coloring. In this technology, the connection of times is very tangible, and today builders who know how, just like their colleagues hundreds of years ago, are actively building houses for permanent residence and Russian baths beloved by the people in this way.

When logging into a bowl, each upper log fits into a semicircular recess, which is cut out in the lower log lying perpendicular.

The essence of this corner connection processed logs consists in the fact that each upper log is placed in a special semicircular recess cut in the lower perpendicular log. The recess, which is called the bowl, is made of such a size that the top log, after laying, fits snugly enough on the previous log of this wall. Thus, a continuous, without significant gaps, vertical overlap is created.

Centuries-old experience of folk construction and climatic features in one area or another had a certain influence on the development of this technology. The variant of the corner bundle of logs, when the upper log lies in the bowl, was called the "Russian felling" (or "in the oblo"). But there is also reverse way how to cut down a log house. It consists in the fact that the bowl is cut in the upper log on its lower part and therefore lies on the lower log. This technique was called "Siberian felling (or "in the okhlop").

The emergence of such technology was due to large, compared with central Russia, problems with cold and precipitation in Siberia. Many experts believe that the Siberian version of felling more reliably protects the log house from all-penetrating moisture and frost.

Choosing the option of cutting a log house using the “into a bowl” method, the master takes on a certain responsibility for the result. Therefore, it is reasonable to know what advantages and disadvantages this technology is characterized by.

Thanks to this connection, the structure of the log building is very strong, with warm corners not blown by the wind.

Marking and cutting down the log house “into the bowl”.

Beautiful original house, created by environmentally friendly building materials, looks very harmonious and does not require additional exterior finish walls.

At the same time, the customer may have difficulties if he nevertheless decides to sheathe the log house. This is a minus of this technology. Another disadvantage of a log house in a bowl is a rather large consumption of material compared to other log house technologies. Due to the corners protruding by 50-60 cm, builders lose useful living space at home.

How to cut a log house into a bowl: materials and tools

For a comfortable and productive cutting of bowls, you will need the following tools:

• carpenter's ax;
• chainsaw (electric saw);
• chisel;
• carpenter's compasses (carpenter's line);
• insulation (tow, moss, jute, etc.).

What wood is better to use for the construction of a log house?

In order to successfully cut a log house into a bowl, it is not enough good tool and the corresponding skill of a builder-carpenter. It is necessary to determine the best material for this, which will resist infection by fungus and attacks by bark beetles.

Types of cuttings "in okhlop".

Carpenters recognize pine as an almost ideal type of wood for this. It is valued for its smooth, almost knotless trunk, which is distinguished a high degree hardness. At the same time, this circumstance does not at all interfere with the convenient processing that distinguishes pine. On the other hand, how constituent element it captivates the walls of the building with its reliability and durability, good resistance to decay and the absence of cracking as a result of drying.

To cut a log house confidently and quickly enough, it is recommended to select logs of approximately the same length and diameter. At the same time, the most practical diameter, according to the experience of using this technology, is 22-24 cm.

As for the time of harvesting logs under future log house, then experts advise doing this in the winter. It is at this time that the tree trunk contains the least juice. Therefore, during subsequent drying winter wood it will be minimally jarred, destructive cracks will appear in the trunk.

How to cut a log house: sequence of operations

A good type of wood for building a house from a log house is pine.

The production of any log house, including the “into the bowl” method, begins with the preparation of the site on which the house will be built. By the beginning of the installation of the first, lowest layer of logs, the foundation of the future structure must be mounted in such a way that the strict horizontality of the starting salary is ensured. Before starting the construction of walls, it is imperative to lay a layer of waterproofing material on the foundation.

The device of the crown crown begins with the installation of two logs parallel to each other, which will subsequently become part of the long walls of the future building. There must be a distance between them equal to the length planned cross-beam.

After the first logs take their strictly horizontal and parallel position, 2 perpendicular logs are placed on their edges. According to the crossbars laid out in this way, the markings of future recesses-bowls are made. This operation is carried out with the help of a carpenter's line.

The performer should very carefully mark the semicircles on both logs at the same time, since only the perfect accuracy of calculations and marking ensures the maximum tightness of the logs to each other. In this case, the depth of the bowl sampling should guarantee such a fit of the upper log in the lower one, so that the upper trunk protrudes from the lower one by half its diameter.

The markup is followed by the actual selection. It is produced with a chainsaw, an ax and a chisel. After removing the wood from the bowl, a trial installation of logs is made to fit them tightly to each other.

To create a snug fit of logs in vertical plane, a special groove is cut down on the upper edge of the lower logs.

In order to create the most snug fit of logs to each other in a vertical plane, a special groove for sealing is cut down on the upper edge of the lower logs along their entire length. Its thickness is influenced by the size of the logs, as well as the climate that prevails in the area where the building will stand. Usually it ranges from 120 mm to 200 mm.

Ideally selected sealing grooves should be free of gaps. However, despite this technological requirement, for additional thermal insulation, before installing each upper log, the groove of the lower log is laid with a heater.

When installing logs in bowls, they are leveled with special dowel pins, for which holes are pre-drilled in blanks to a depth equal to the height of one and a half logs. Laying the logs in this way, they are tapped with a wooden chock. And all this time it is necessary to monitor the strict verticality of the walls.

The nuances of work

To cut down a log house and to make it resistant to bad weather, the logs are oriented with thin annual rings to the street, and thick rings - inside the future house.

To facilitate this process, you can build a building in parts. Relays (as these parts are called) are usually tied on the ground, lining up up to the size of human growth. Then each of them is dismantled and re-installed already on the base frame.

The pile option will be the best choice for a foundation for a wooden frame. It is lightweight and fairly easy to install.

In the absence of the necessary experience, it is recommended to start the production of log cabins with the construction of something small and not very significant, for example, with garden gazebo or a small bath. So experience will come and the skill necessary for building a full-fledged house will develop.

Gradually learning the tricks of building, the master will be able to create something not only suitable for habitation, but also causing enthusiastic responses with its exquisite appearance.

Today we’ll talk about how to cut a log house into a bowl with your own hands. We will talk about what this technology is, what features, advantages and disadvantages it has. And so that readers of the blog about wooden housing construction at the Russkaya Izba SPK learn more about the felling technology, a video about it will finish the article. Let `s start?!

AT recent times I increasingly hear about some new super-technologies, all sorts of “smart” houses and other achievements of civilization, but ... Friends, you must admit, after all, all of us are still drawn to the natural, natural, familiar, proven over the years. Therefore, when it comes to the house and what it is better to build it from, I never get tired of repeating: most best material for housing construction is a tree, eco-friendly, breathable, natural.

If you decide to build wooden house, we, firstly, congratulate you on this step, and secondly, we recommend that you install our native Russian log house when the so-called manual felling is performed.

The main secret of this simple, but, as time has shown, very ingenious idea is as follows: a recess is cut in each log, that is, a “bowl”, into which the next log fits, this notch is also cut down in it - a bowl. The main task is to adjust the size of the bowl so that the logs stacked on top of each other fit snugly against each other.

There are two ways to cut a log house from a log into a bowl

1. "In the cloud"(Russian felling) - the corner bunch of logs is carried out by laying the top log into the bowl.
2. "In the hood"(Siberian cutting) - the upper log, in the lower part of which a bowl is cut down, is laid on the lower log, etc.

There is an opinion that the second felling technique is more reliable, it better protects the log house from cold and moisture. But you and I know how to make a heat engineering calculation of the walls of a house, how to waterproof the foundation, how and with what to properly process a tree, in the end, what kind of heater to buy, so we are not afraid of frost or moisture on the log house.

Types of cuts "in okhlop"

Cutting a log house into a bowl - advantages and disadvantages

As you understand, cutting into a bowl is a construction technique that our great-grandfathers used from generation to generation to build a house without single nail. Such houses, as they say, for centuries.

• If we talk in general about hand-cut log cabins, the advantages and disadvantages of this technology, then I will note the following: such houses do not need to be finished in any special way. If the material (wood) is of high quality, it looks very beautiful and noble in itself, and, in our opinion, it is unnecessary to sculpt something on top of it.
• The main advantage and, perhaps, the most weighty argument in favor of a wooden house, cut down using this technology of corner joining logs into a bowl, is that it turns out to be warm, strong and reliable.
• The only, probably, minus of cutting into a bowl is a greater consumption of material, if we compare this technology for building a log house, for example, with other existing ones. Since the log corners protrude up to half a meter, the usable living space of the house is reduced.
• Another feature of such houses and baths is that it, like any wooden dwelling, needs to be processed. special formulations (antiseptics and flame retardants) to protect the tree from negative impact environment.

So, friends, let's sum up the results on the issue of "cutting a log house into a bowl: advantages and disadvantages." In fact, there are no significant minuses, but the pluses are solid.

Marking and cutting down the log house "into the bowl"

Houses from a log into a bowl - choose the material

In fact, choosing the wood that your house will be built from is the most important task that you have to solve.

First of all, we say that our log house will be exclusively made of conifers. These are the most resistant to decay processes, because they contain a natural antiseptic - resin. If we proceed from the fact that you don’t understand anything at all in wood, then you need to find out everything yourself in advance: smell, feel, stroke, look at the rings in the cut, but learn to distinguish different breeds tree. Although if you can’t distinguish a Christmas tree from a birch, then it’s better not to cut into a bowl with your own hands. Hire professionals for these purposes for example, refer to

And remember: for cutting a log house using this technology, you need to use logs the same size(length and diameter). It is desirable that the cut tree was at least 26–28 cm.

Do-it-yourself log house in a bowl - step by step instructions

The technology for building such a house is extremely simple, but cutting requires good physical preparation, skill, accuracy and accuracy. Because the quality of work directly affects ... In general, it affects everything: how your house will be (crooked and skewed or perfectly even), how comfortable you and your household will live in it, etc.

If you briefly outline the scheme of felling a log house with your own hands, then it looks like this:

Manual cutting of a bathhouse or at home into a bowl - nuances

All comes with experience! But experience comes later, and the house must be built now, so glory to the one who invented the Internet, and those who share their precious experience in it, just like me.

No matter how venerable the master may be, everything does not always go according to plan and everything does not always work out correctly, especially when it comes to manually cutting a log house into a bowl. Therefore, it is imperative to find out how you can before work more nuances, in order to avoid any incidents. Here are some helpful tips:

• When sawing out the bowl, it is very convenient to smear the place where the logs touch with charcoal: when you put the log into the bowl, you will see how much more wood will need to be cut.
• You cut down the bowls, having measured everything beforehand. We lay the logs and, after adjusting each tier, we measure the level: if you see a skew, you can try to fix it with a sealant, we lay the bowl with it to the desired height.
• All logs are numbered: the thickness of the logs is different, so as not to get confused later.
• Let's say you chose wood of very high quality, anyway, for greater reliability, we impregnate each cut-down bowl with some special bactericidal solution so that there is no mold in the future.
• When storing a log, we lay it with a bowl down so that the water does not leak if it suddenly rains.

The technology of cutting a log house into a bowl - video

Looks like everyone has been told. As they say, on the fingers explained. But to make everything completely clear, you need to use one more very useful resource with a description of the technology of felling a log house into a bowl - video! What else can explain everything so clearly. Schemes, drawings, drawings are all good, life stories too, but when we see the process with our own eyes, everything falls into place.

Watch video:

I want to advise you as a specialist who really understands something in the construction of log cabins, Valeria Samovich. By the way, he recently gave us interview, it will be interesting to read!

I hope now everything is clear and understandable to you. And if not, ask questions in the comments to the article, we will explain even more intelligibly.

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Everything is currently more people begins to build a log house with their own hands from profiled timber or round timber. This is not just a tribute to fashion. felling wooden frame not such a complicated process, the materials are relatively inexpensive, and the result is reliable, simple and brings a lot of positive emotions to the master.

The advantages of a wooden house are that it is environmentally friendly, has low thermal conductivity, which ensures comfortable temperature inside the building at any time of the year. There are not so many disadvantages: the service life of a wooden structure is in the range of 50-100 years, it is problematic to make an extension to it, the fire hazard of the building is high even with special processing wood.

Necessary materials and tools

You can build a log house or a log cabin with your own hands in one season if you have the material and necessary tools. For this you will need:

• chainsaw;
• axes;
• chisels;
• mallets and hammers;
• electric drill;
• staples, nails and other fasteners.

We remind you that dry logs or special profiled beams are used for a wooden log house, so the material must be prepared approximately 7-10 months before the start of construction, but the foundation for a log house can be prepared even 1 month in advance. wooden elements the structures are light, so the probability of foundation shrinkage is very low. The exception is foundations that will be built on light soils. Sandy ground and too deep a layer of clay indicate that the foundation must be reliable and prepared at least 6 months before the start of the main construction phase.

The order of construction work

So, the foundation was made, all the tools are available, there is at hand required amount dry logs (pre-prepare them before cutting the log house), you can begin to build the bowl of the building. A layer of waterproofing is laid on the foundation. You can apply roofing material (in 3-4 layers) or use more modern materials. The lower part of the log will have to be cut under the cord to give it a flat plane. The same operation is recommended to be done with the upper part.

Two prepared logs are laid longitudinally on the foundation. In the place where there will be a connection with a transverse log, it is necessary to give it the appropriate profiling. Usually the connection is made in the paw: the edges of the log are profiled so that they have the shape rectangular trapezoid in the end part and reduced to a rectangular shape at the junction with the round part of the log.

The transverse log is profiled in the same way. The connection of the angle to the paw requires accurate measurements and calculations in order to avoid gaps. Sometimes additional wedges driven between the profiled parts of the logs help to eliminate miscalculations. But this cannot be considered a way out: as a result, a cold zone will form in the corners, which will cause the structure to freeze and the material to be damaged by a fungus from excess moisture entering the joint. The dovetail connection resembles the same paw, but in the central part it has a protrusion that helps to make the corner more airtight.

The first crown and reliable connections

The first crown of the log house is the key, so its quality must be taken very responsibly. For additional strength of the joints, a vertical tenon is often used. To do this, both logs need to be drilled through and a wooden spike (oak) of a slightly larger diameter should be hammered into the resulting hole. To prevent spikes from falling into each other, arrange them in a checkerboard pattern. Properly organized connection with spikes will not allow the walls to walk.

An important point is the longitudinal density of the walls. Between themselves, the logs should be connected as tightly as possible. In this regard, felling can be carried out different ways. Specially prepared profiled beams do not need to be adjusted. Round timber does not have this quality, so it must be customized. The two most commonly used options are:

1. logs with opposite sides flat profiling is given. In the log crowns, these planes lie on top of each other and provide a tight connection.
2. Each log initially needs to be “selected” - to make a longitudinal recess of a rounded shape. This recess will provide a large area of ​​​​contact with the log lower crown. The advantages of this method are also that the wall elements will receive additional opportunity avoid being hit precipitation to the connection points. The service life of the building will be much higher.

The second profiling option seems to be more practical. To prepare such a chopped log, it is advisable to use a special ax (in the form of a chopper) or a regular one, but it will be somewhat more difficult to work here.

The need for sealing

In any case, the walls will require additional sealing. The crowns are stacked on top of each other by additional processing of the seams. Various modern facilities for this is in specialized stores.

Since you are building your own house or bathhouse from environmentally friendly wood, you should not use synthetic products for sealing. It is better to return to tradition and use moss to seal the seams. It is easy to prepare, it dries very quickly. And it is easy to caulk the seams with moss: we lay it at the joints, seal it with a wooden wedge and a mallet.

A simple tapping will allow you to detect all the shortcomings in the connections in a timely manner and eliminate them in time.

The antiseptic properties of moss will allow the logs to remain dry and unharmed for a long time.

With such a careful approach to the material and finish, you yourself will be able to give advice to friends on how to make a log house yourself.

2016-02-24, 22:12

Bark Removal Tool Initial markup Cutting out the share Adjusting the planes of the shares Logging grooves

Cutting down a log house yourself is quite real. Now we will find out all the details and see, well, the ax is in your hands.

You will not find such material on the Internet anywhere else, since everywhere you can see the felling of a log house from first-class logs, but it is not easy for an inexperienced person to get first-class round timber, so we will cut from what God sent, not at the expense of quality.

At that time, God sent a forest felled by a hurricane, and there is no question of the first grade even close. Nevertheless, we will cut down an excellent log cabin for a bath from it.

Get the first grade - excellent, make your job easier.

Tool

For the manufacture of a log house, you will need the following tool:

2. Hacksaw or chainsaw

3. Scherhebel planer or electric planer

4. Level 40 - 60 cm.

5. Metal ruler 40 - 60 cm.

6. Building cord-malka.

7. Template.

About the template in more detail, as it has to be done. Template for paw Canadian (dovetail). Here he is:

Template dimensions

A - width, taken relative to the top (thin) part of the thinnest log. The width of the template is taken already this part by 4 centimeters. For example, if the thickness of the log is 20 cm, then the width of the template is 16 cm.

B - 3/4 of A

C and D - 2/4 of A

E - 1/4 of A

Bark removal

First of all, we remove the bark from the logs. From all. So that the log under the bark does not rot, but in warm time, under it the bark beetle would not be activated.

This operation is done with a shovel, sharpened like this:

With the bark removed, the logs can lie for a very long time, but if the expected storage period exceeds six months, it is necessary to ensure ventilation, and cover the foot from above with roofing material, or something similar.

Log layout

Work begins with the laying out of the log. To do this, two stands are made with recesses, on which the log is given the position necessary for marking.

If the material is of the first grade, without noticeable bends, the log is laid out along the annual rings so that the part where the annual rings are thinner is obtained later with outside log house.

If the material is not of the first grade, then the log is laid out in accordance with the existing bends, which must be turned either up or to the outside. Or both. Just not down and in.

Be careful. At first glance, the log may seem very straight, but a look along it will immediately determine the curvature.

When laying out, we also determine the direction of laying the log in the log house relative to the previous one. The butt part fits on the crown, and vice versa.

Initial markup

The logs are selected as follows: the first crown is the thickest, then thinner and thinner towards the middle. from the 7th ring thicker again, and the last clamping ring is thick.

For marking, the log is trimmed. There are no special devices for this - it is done by eye, but the smoother the trimming is done, the less will be the fit and the likelihood of cracks in the corners.

Trimming is done exactly in size, the same for all logs of the wall.

After trimming according to the level, we draw a horizontal line along the widest part of the end of the log (in the first grade this is the middle), mark its center, and take the width of the template from the center.

By template width vertical level we draw two lines, thereby starting the outline of the cheeks of the paw.

Then, along these lines, we stretch the thread between the ends of the log, and along it we draw the longitudinal part of the cheeks, 25–30 cm long. Only all are the same.

As a result, at the ends of the log you will get the following markup:

Paw cutting

By marking, we cut out the cheeks of the paw.

We adjust the width of the cheeks exactly according to the width of the template so that it fits snugly, but without tension. While the hand is not full, it is better to make them with a small margin, and then hone with an ax to the desired size.

A chainsaw for cutting cheeks is used when there are knots on them for years. If there are no knots, then the entire segment is cut down with an ax.

Let's move on to production seat paws. The first two logs have one seat - the top one.

We put a template on the paw in the middle and draw along the upper border. The narrow part of the template is located with outer side walls.

From the edge of the border outlined by the template, we draw a line upward along the vertical level on both sides. The distance from the border to the top of the log, on the wide (inner) side, must be at least 5 centimeters.

.

Then we outline the edge of the seat, cut through the end, and cut down the log segment. It is important when cutting the butt, not to make a cut below the border of the template.

A paw is also made at the opposite end of the log. Then, according to the same instructions, a second log is made, which in the log house will be parallel to the first.

We pass to the transverse logs of the first crown. Trimming, marking and cheeks on the transverse log are done in exactly the same way as on the first one. But the paw is a little different, since it is already full, with two landing sites, upper and lower.

First, the lower platform of the paw is made. We measure about 5 cm from the bottom of the log, set and outline the template.

Why about 5 cm? Since the logs do not differ in perfect evenness, and the trimming will most likely not be perfect at first, the template will most likely lead the plane away, so it will need to be adjusted along the lower paw, and this adjustment can eat another 1 - 2 cm.

As a result, we will get the normal paw depth. The depth of the paw should be approximately 0.5 of the width of the groove, so if the average groove width is 12 - 14 cm, then the paw depth is normally 6 - 7 cm.

Don't forget that the narrow end of the template is on the outside. The upper edge can not be drawn yet. I have outlined it here to make it clearer for you.

Now we draw the inner edge of the paw according to the level.

We turn the log over, and, just like on the first log, we draw an edge and make a cut, and we also cut out the paw, only if the top of the paw was made on the first log, now, on the transverse one, we make the bottom.

We do not touch the upper landing yet, since the lower one will still have to be adjusted.

After that, we take an electric planer and process the knot protrusions. If there are sharp bends, protrusions on the log, then we trim them as well.

It remains for us to adjust the planes of the paws of the longitudinal and transverse logs, but how to do this, so as not to repeat again, I will show on the second log, on which there will already be a groove.

In the meantime, let's set the transverse and display the entire structure along the diagonals and the level. The level is taken from the bottom of the first logs.

Adjustment of the planes of the paws

We have ready the top of the paw of the first log and the bottom of the paw of the first transverse. Now you need to fit these planes.

First of all, we draw a vertical. This is done with the help of a level and a wedge.

Having exposed the log in this way, we look at the gap, determine and outline the places on the paw that need to be hemmed so that there is no gap and the log lies strictly vertically.

After fitting, we measure the resulting depth of the lower plane of the paw, and according to this size we draw according to the template and cut it out upper plane. Thus, the paw will be located exactly in the middle of the log.

Now we are preparing a triple log. It will be longitudinal, with a groove, and all subsequent logs will be made according to the same instructions.

We expose the log as mentioned above, cut out the cheeks and cut down the bottom of the paw with a depth of about 5 cm, process the knots and ledges with a planer and install it on the previous one.

We expose the vertical with the help of a wedge, and look at the gap between the logs.