How to get rid of cracks in a wooden floor. How and what is the best way to seal cracks in wooden floors. For cracks and chips of any width

A wooden floor, along with many advantages, has one drawback - cracks can form between the floorboards over time. There are several ways to solve this problem, and most of them do not require much financial costs, no special skills. Let's look at the most popular of them.

Repairing cracks with silicone

One of the simplest, yet effective ways to eliminate cracks in the floor. Before starting work, the floor should be thoroughly cleaned of dust and debris and washed with a damp cloth. After the floor has completely dried, the gap is filled with colorless or white silicone using a construction syringe. This method makes it possible to eliminate both external cracks. So are the voids and depressions formed under the floorboards. After the silicone has dried (usually it takes 24 hours), the floor is covered with a layer of paint.

One of the simplest, yet effective ways to eliminate cracks

Remains of silicone must be removed immediately after applying it, since after it dries this will be quite problematic.

Sealing cracks with putty

Another simple and quick method, which, however, is applicable only in cases where the width of the gap does not exceed 0.5 centimeters, since otherwise the thick layer of putty will quickly crack and the work will have to be done again.

For work, you can use ready-made putties sold in construction stores, and a self-prepared mixture based on sawdust and varnish. To prepare it, you need to take a colorless epoxy-based varnish and mix it with sawdust in a ratio of approximately 1 to 4. The result should be a mass with a consistency similar to plasticine. Both “store-bought” and homemade putty are applied to a previously washed floor using a regular spatula. After the putty has dried, the seams can be “straightened” by treating them with fine-grained sandpaper. Next, all that remains is to paint the floor, and the work of eliminating the cracks can be considered complete.

To save material, gaps in the floor can be filled to half their depth with cord or rolled paper.

Sealing cracks with epoxy resin

This method is similar to the previous one, with the only exception that epoxy glue is used instead of putty. True, given the special strength of this material, it can be used to seal even the widest cracks.

The first step is to dilute the resin by mixing its base with the hardener. You can learn how to do this by watching the following video.

Video about preparing epoxy resin

Please note that epoxy resin hardens quite quickly, so prepare the solution in an amount that you can work out in 20-30 minutes.

The resin can be applied to the gap with an ordinary spatula, but it is worth considering that the layer of resin should form a small “slide”, since otherwise after the solution “shrinks” the gap will not be completely filled. If, after the resin has dried, there remain raised areas above the floor surface, they can be removed using ordinary sandpaper.

Eliminating cracks with wooden slats

This is perhaps the most labor-intensive, but very effective and durable method.

The first step is to prepare the slats required thickness. They can be made from dry pine boards, previously cut into slats. Adjust the rail to right size You can use a knife or sandpaper.

Please note that the width of the slats should be slightly narrower than the width of the gap itself. So, for example, a gap 7 millimeters wide will need a 6.5 millimeter wide strip.

The finished slats are driven into the cracks using a mallet or a regular hammer with wooden spacer.

Now you need to coat the gaps between the slats and the boards with glue. This can be done with a brush, but it is better to use a tube with a thin tip. To make the glue flow better, it makes sense to make several small holes in the body of the tube.

The defects remaining after installing the slats are eliminated using putty or a mixture based on varnish and sawdust.

Repairing cracks with tow

This “old-fashioned” method has still not lost its relevance. To work, you will need ordinary plumbing tow and PVA glue (for greater strength, you can use wood glue).

The tow is thoroughly moistened in the adhesive solution, after which, using a wooden wedge and a mallet, the entire crack is tightly clogged with it. When the glue has completely dried, the surface of the crack will need to be leveled using putty.. After it dries, the floor can be painted.

Covering cracks with plywood

As for the work process itself, everything is extremely simple. Sheets of plywood are laid on top of the boards and secured with self-tapping screws. The screw caps should be “recessed” a little, and then these places should be leveled using putty.

Please note that plywood cannot be laid close to the wall. It is necessary to leave a gap of 5-6 millimeters as an allowance for “drying out”.

Using the methods described above, you will certainly be able to get rid of cracks in the floor, and this work will take a minimum of energy from you. Funds and time. Good luck with your renovation!

Traditional floors made of natural wood beautiful in all respects - they are environmentally friendly, easy to install, beautiful and practical. However, from all materials wooden boards most susceptible to various deformations.

So, during operation in almost any wooden floor Gaps appear between the boards. These cracks promote rotting and leakage occurs through them. large number heat, dust and dirt accumulate in them. If cracks appear, they must be sealed. What's the best way to do this?

Reasons for the formation of cracks

Gaps between floorboards can form due to many factors:

• Temperature deformations. Due to regular temperature fluctuations, the wood dries out and the joints of the covering elements become wider. This can be avoided by material dried at the factory using a special method, in which all water is removed from the wood cells using a vacuum. Ordinary boards dry for several years and during this time they noticeably change in size.
• Rodents that spoil wood. In this case, simply repairing the defects is not enough; you also need to get rid of the mice or at least prevent them from gnawing on the floor by getting a cat.
• Mistakes when laying boards. In this case, you need to securely fasten the coating, and then cover the cracks.
• Poor ventilation, as a result of which the wood quickly rots. Having sealed the joints in this case, it will be necessary to arrange ventilation grille on a wooden floor.

Modern repair methods

putty

The easiest way to cover cracks in a wooden floor is with putty, but this option is not durable. If the boards continue to move during use, the putty will quickly crack and you will have to do everything again. In addition, the putty is very noticeable against the background of the wood texture.

Sealant

If the cracks are dynamic, the material used to cover them must also be mobile and have good elasticity. To ensure this characteristic, sealants based on acrylic or silicone are used. The coating process looks like this:

• the floor surface is cleaned and dried;
• the joints of the boards are filled using a mounting gun;
• The sealant is spread with a spatula.

Silicone sealant can be selected to match the color of the floor. Acrylic-based sealants are also excellent option. They are resistant to temperature fluctuations and high humidity, are easy to sand, and can be painted and varnished. The tensile strength is very high - the gap can stretch twice without losing the integrity of the sealant.

Polyurethane foam

It is very simple to close the joints of the boards in the floor using this substance. All you need is a special gun and a soft plastic tube that is compressed and pushed into the gap. The foam should be supplied evenly and with little pressure. You need to act quickly, as the foam hardens almost instantly.

A narrow gap can be sealed not from the inside, but by applying foam from above. You should not spread the foam with a spatula, as the material will stick tightly to the metal. Better to use wet wooden block, lubricated with soapy water. Excess foam is removed with a stationery knife after drying.

The disadvantages of foam are its ability to collapse under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, porosity and attraction of dust. But a layer of polyurethane foam works well as insulation.

Scotch

If there will be additional finishing layer coating, and the attractiveness of the seams is not important, you can simply seal the joints with wide construction tape. Its edges are fastened to the board using a stapler. The tape will perfectly protect the room from drafts and cold entering through the joints of the boards.

Traditional methods

These methods of sealing cracks are time-tested and often turn out to be optimal.

Wood slats

It is very easy to seal the gap with a lath. The technology of the method is as follows:

• The edges of the boards are processed with a hand mill.
• The slats are cut suitable size. It is best to take pine boards, as they are easier to process.
• The edges of the floorboards and the side edges of the slats are lubricated with an adhesive solution.
• The rail is inserted into the slot and securely fixed. The remaining unfilled gaps can be sealed with a mixture of glue and sawdust.
• The resulting surface is sanded with a belt grinder or manually. In this case, you need to protect yourself with goggles and a respirator, as a lot of dust will be generated.
• Masking tape is applied to the joint.
• The repaired floor is painted and varnished.
• Putty from scrap materials

An old putty recipe that you can use to make your own putty is an adhesive composition made from tree resin and sawdust.

You can also mix sawdust with PVA glue. The resulting mixture adheres perfectly to the wood, and after drying it becomes very hard and durable. The only downside is the roughness of such putty, to give a decent appearance you will have to carefully sand it with sandpaper. In addition, this material darkens during use.

A similar recipe is a mixture of varnish and wood dust.

Covering the floor with plywood, chipboard, plasterboard

Others can also be used similar materials. It is recommended to seal the joints of boards using this method in case of very wide cracks that cannot be covered with anything. On top of a layer of sheets of plywood or other material, you can put any decorative coating.

A frame of miniature logs is formed on an old wooden floor. To do this, you need to use timber made of durable wood. The bars are installed in increments of 60 cm, depending on the thickness of the coating sheets. Pieces of linoleum or roofing felt should be placed under these elements to absorb the load on the floor.

It is worth considering that if the distance between the frame elements is made too large, the strength of the floor will decrease. Sheets of plywood or particle board They are attached to the frame using self-tapping screws, the caps of which must be recessed into the material or, at least, made flush with the surface. Instead of self-tapping screws, you can use glue paired with nails, this will also ensure sufficient reliability of the coating.

The gaps in the frame can be filled with insulation - for example, mineral wool. Gaps must be left between the slabs for deformation, otherwise the floor will creak. After installation is completed, all joints and places where fasteners are screwed in are sealed with putty. After it has dried, the floor can be varnished, painted, or a finishing coat can be laid on it.

Cord

This method is the fastest. Its essence is that a simple rope is laid into wide cracks in a wooden floor, which is then filled with mortar. epoxy resin with cement. After the mixture has hardened, you can paint the joints.

When purchasing a home, new residents, as a rule, immediately begin renovations - even if they are purchasing a new building. And even more so if the apartment was purchased on the secondary housing market or inherited from parents. Repairing apartments with your own hands or with the help of specialists is an almost inevitable reality for any new resident in our country. Modern look housing is given by installation plasterboard partitions, spotlights, multi-level ceilings.

Possible problems

Floors in such apartments are a separate issue. In old panel houses their device is no different in variety. This is usually linoleum or boards on top of the simplest concrete screed. Floor repairs in Khrushchev-era apartment buildings are most often required immediately after moving in.

If you get such a floor, you should try to level the surface and get rid of the eternal dust. These days it's common old screed they clean it down to the ground and build a new one, especially since there is no shortage of materials for this. Minor defects can be repaired by filling the uneven areas with tile adhesive.

What if you have wood floors? The covering made of boards tends to dry out over time; due to friction against each other, the floorboards make a creaking sound. Usually owners try to eliminate it by screwing the boards with screws or pouring them into drilled holes glue. Such measures are not always effective. When planning in Khrushchev, prepare for certain difficulties.

Sometimes restoration is necessary wooden floors occurs due to a flood caused by one’s own fault or by neighbors above. If the floors are seriously damaged, it becomes clear that major repairs cannot be avoided.

You can see in the photo the wooden floors of the Khrushchev-era building before renovation.

Let's start the renovation

So, let's do the repairs. When planning it, you should decide what you need - to bring the wooden floor to a divine state or to use the coating as a base for a finishing layer. This will determine whether you will repair the existing floor or replace it completely. It may be enough to just eliminate the cracks in the wooden floor.

Work begins with inspection and, if necessary, dismantling. The floorboards should be carefully examined and their condition assessed. Undamaged boards will be useful when installing a new covering.

Then you need to clear a place to work and buy the material in the right quantity. A list of everything that will be used to repair the floor, price and quantity is specified in advance. You will need bars measuring 50 by 50 cm, and polyethylene film as a vapor barrier. When repairing the floor, it is possible to insulate it, which is important for apartments on the lower floors, especially in cold areas. They are used as insulation. They must be dense and keep their shape. This is on the packaging mineral wool The size is always indicated, so it is easy to calculate the required quantity.

Sequence of actions

At the beginning of the repair, a plastic film is spread on the floor, the panels of which should overlap each other by about 20 cm. This is done to prevent the access of moisture from the lower rooms.

Mineral wool is cut into strips approximately 3-4 centimeters thick, which are attached around the perimeter of each room. Why install bars at a distance slightly less than the width of the insulation boards? The evenness of the installation is controlled by a level. Insulation boards are laid between them, which should fit tightly into the rectangles between the bars.

What exactly to do with the boards depends on whether it will be a rough layer or a final one. If you need to level an old wooden floor by laying a new covering on top, the boards can be laid out at small intervals. Then the next step will be to lay sheets of fiberboard or plywood on top of the boards as a base for a decorative covering. The photo above in the article shows wooden floors after renovation.

If the floorboards squeak

To avoid the problem of creaking floorboards for as long as possible, fasten them with self-tapping screws. If you do not plan to cover the floorboards with anything on top, you should pay attention special attention their quality. They need to be strengthened as tightly as possible, aligned in height. The materials must be dry.

After laying, the boards are sanded, sometimes repeatedly, to achieve a perfectly even surface. Before the sanding process, it is necessary to putty the last remaining cracks. These sanded and varnished wooden floors look very prestigious and modern.

If the reason was normal drying, the boards should be tested for strength - there should be no deflection or squeaking. It may be necessary to pull the floorboards together and secure them additionally with self-tapping screws. The next step is to fill cracks and small crevices. Inexpensive and reliable option- acrylic The only tool you need is a spatula. After complete drying, clean all areas where the putty was applied.

You can prepare an old plank floor for flooring in different ways. For example, prepare a leveling mixture from sawdust and or buy ready-made putty. You can use a standard sand and cement screed. The so-called ones are applied to a clean, prepared surface and leveled using guide beacons. But this method has the disadvantage of a long drying time for most compositions.

Often, defects associated with drying out of boards occur due to the low level of air. Another reason is improperly laid covering, deformation of lags. Having found the cause of the defect, you can decide how to seal the cracks in the wooden floor.

When lags are to blame

If you suspect that the cause of the creaking is a defect in the lags, this can only be checked by dismantling the entire covering. The removed bars are checked for strength, and unsuitable ones must be replaced. Then the boards are laid again and firmly attached to the bars. In this case, significant differences in height (up to ten millimeters) may appear. You can level the boards using a plane.

The mixture for sealing wide cracks is prepared by mixing sawdust with PVA glue. The pre-prepared composition is applied to the required places, after drying, the grinding stage begins. Cracks can also be filled with polyurethane foam, the foamed remains of which, after drying, are cut off with an ordinary stationery knife. After this, the entire surface is treated with acrylic putty.

Thus, we see that there are enough options for how to seal cracks in a wooden floor. For example, the elimination of large cracks can be done using a tourniquet, which will require an adhesive composition. In case small cracks It is worth buying a sealant for the floor, as well as concrete contact. First, each crack is treated with soil, then with concrete contact (the surface becomes rough), then a rope or tow impregnated with sealant is hammered in. After drying, the floor is cycled.

Another way to repair

What else can you use to seal cracks in a wooden floor? If you don't want to re-floor the floors, you can choose a simpler method. Try shanking the boards together. Classic way will require a drill, a long drill, a hammer, a tape measure and dowels - thin long ones wooden sticks round section.

Using a drill, holes are drilled in two adjacent floorboards at an angle of 45 degrees. Each of them must start in one board and end in another. A dowel, previously coated with glue, is driven into it. Its protruding part is cut down and cleaned flush. The adjacent hole is drilled with an indentation of about a quarter of a meter from the side of the other board so that the dowels are perpendicular to each other, and so on until completely strengthened.

More modern way assumes the presence of self-tapping screws, as well as a special drill, which is used to drill holes for sealing their heads. On last stage all irregularities are eliminated.

What else can you do?

Sealing cracks in a wooden floor can be done using the so-called soft and hard methods. For soft, twine is used (preferably natural), as well as polymer glue, a wooden wedge and a hammer. The twine is pre-soaked in glue, then inserted between the boards using a hammer and wedge. After the glue has polymerized (after about a day), the remaining irregularities are sealed with putty.

The advantage of this glue is its elasticity. Even when drying occurs, the cracks no longer widen. After about a day, you need to clean the surface, and you can start painting.

The most reliable way

The hard caulking method requires tools such as a plane, hammer and hand saw. Cut out from thin wooden planks required quantity wedges, the width of which is adjusted to the size of the gap, then the wedges are carefully driven into the gaps with the long side using a hammer. The width of the gap is different everywhere, and you will need to adjust it with a plane. The hard method requires a lot of effort and patience, but it is the most reliable.

Before inserting the prepared plank into the slot, glue is poured into it. Leave it for a day, the cracks are cleaned, and you can start painting.

Those planning to renovate apartments with their own hands should know that there are more exotic methods, for example, filling cracks with hot bitumen. But it is quite expensive, dirty and labor intensive. It is known that the cardinal way to disguise all the cracks and unevenness of the floor is to cover it with plywood. The effect of this method will be the most long-lasting.

Wood, although warm, is capricious flooring material. None of the installation methods guarantees that there will be no gaps between the planks in the future. In this article we will tell you how to seal cracks in a wooden floor.

As you know, wood not only changes its linear dimensions as a result of changes in temperature and humidity, but also dries out over time. In addition, rodents can contribute to the appearance of cracks and holes in the floor. In any case, repairs are required:

• Cosmetic - gaps are sealed with various compounds or inserts.
• Partial – replacement of a damaged board or small area;
• Full – bulkhead boardwalk or a complete replacement of the coating.

How to seal cracks in a wooden floor? The most common method is to fill the seams using special ready-made compounds:

• Sealants;
• Wood putties;
• Construction foam, etc.

Mixing homemade putty composition.

Instead of construction chemicals, you can prepare homemade mixtures for sealing gaps in the floor. As a rule, the composition consists of two components - a binder (glue, paint) and a filler (sawdust, gypsum).

The next method is a little more labor-intensive - eliminating wide gaps between the boards, as well as between the covering and the wall using compaction. In this case, strips of wood, foam plastic, special caulking cords, etc. are used. Effective and practical, but in some cases requires additional adjustment and subsequent varnishing or painting.

The last method, the most expensive and costly, is to replace the floorboard with cracks and other damage with a new one that is suitable in size and tone.

The exact method for eliminating defects is selected based on the width of the seams, the nature of the damage, etc. Let's take a closer look.

Semi-liquid filling compounds for sealing cracks

In any series of construction chemicals from Russian or foreign manufacturer Tools for woodworking are available. They are great for eliminating minor defects. Including:

Pigmented silicone sealants

Used for gaps up to 1 cm wide, they have good adhesion to wood. After application, the composition must be leveled with a plastic or rubber spatula. As a result of polymerization, an elastic, non-shrinking seam is formed, resistant to water and household chemicals. A particular advantage is the durability of the plastic composition, which does not crumble or fall out due to seasonal expansion and drying of the floorboards.

The color indicated on the label may not match the real one, so ask the store for a display stand of colors. These are samples finished products, manufactured by the manufacturer.

Acrylic sealants, paintable

A good analogue of the previous product, but with a slight difference. After application, the white paste polymerizes for 1 hour, then it can be painted. Very convenient way repair of floors coated with alkyd or oil enamel.

Tinted gypsum putties

Formulations familiar to customers based on water or oil based for gaps up to 1-2 cm wide. Apply with a spatula and compact thoroughly. The material shrinks, so re-application and subsequent leveling may be required. The putty dry surface must be sanded with sandpaper.

After drying, the finished putty becomes lighter by 1-2 tones, so when purchasing you need to choose a darker composition.

The downside of this product is its fragility. After a year, maximum two, the seam begins to crack, crumble, and absorb dirt. The material is in steady demand mainly due to price. The cost of a small package from VGT or Novbytkhim is only 50-60 rubles.

Epoxy putties

Semi-liquid, quick-hardening compositions based on polymer resin. As a rule, these are two-component compounds that, after drying, form a very strong (non-elastic) seam. The adhesion coefficient of this material to wood is unusually high, and, unlike conventional putties, the hardened mass does not crumble. Accordingly, already at next year You won’t have to look for something to cover up the floor defect again.

Epoxy grouts are used for narrow gaps no more than 3-7 mm wide, applied with a spatula. The shrinkage rate is low, so there is no need for re-processing.

Polyester pastes, colorless or white

Quick-hardening polymer grouts, one- or two-component, for filling gaps between boards no more than 5 mm wide. The mixture is suitable for old floor coverings as it forms a strong, rigid joint. After application, the surface is leveled with a flexible spatula; painting in the same color as the main floor is allowed.

We have listed ready-made compositions. Looking for something to use to fill cracks in a wooden floor, folk craftsmen often used means such as;

• polyurethane foam(pieces of foam plastic, scraps of fiberboard, etc. are placed in the gap as a frame);
• mixture of small sawdust and PVA or oil enamel;
• composition of cement and epoxy glue, etc.

There are many options for homemade putties for filling gaps; they are formed according to the “what’s at hand” principle. The most reliable and proven, according to experienced craftsmen, is a mixture of wood flour and PVA. A thick paste is prepared from these components, which is applied with a spatula and carefully leveled. After drying and sanding, the surface can be coated with a protective varnish.

Sealing cracks using compaction method

If the boards “play” and the width of the gaps exceeds 1-2 cm, it is recommended to use inserts. They will help firmly fix the floorboards and remove squeaks. The first and long-proven remedy in this case is thin wedge slats.

How the compaction is carried out:

1. The gap must be cleared of debris and slightly expanded. There is no need to remove baseboards or other decorative moldings.
2. Measure the width and make a wedge of appropriate dimensions from the slats.
3. Apply PVA or wood glue to the floorboards and insert.
4. Drive the lath tightly into the seam with a mallet or a regular hammer using a tamping block.
5. Remove the protruding surface with sandpaper or a plane.
6. Sand the sealed floor with a fine-grained sanding belt and cover it with varnish or paint.

As a temporary remedy before major repairs floors can be used sealing cord. It is designed to seal cracks in log houses up to 3-5 cm wide. It is a kind of rope made of foamed polyethylene, rubber or tow. Working with this type of material is not difficult: the product must be carefully compacted into the gap using a chisel and hammer. And so that the seam does not stand out too much from the rest of the floor, a thin layer of tinted sealant, putty or a mixture of sawdust and PVA is applied to the surface.

Local replacement of the damaged area

What to do if mice have gnawed through the floor, and the gap in the wall-floor area exceeds 5-10 cm in width. Neither putties, nor sealants, nor even sealing ropes will help in this case. You can cover the top with a piece of plywood or chipboard, but such a blotch will simply get in the way and stand out too much. The best option– replacement of a board or a small section of the floor.

To prevent the repaired floor from becoming a victim of rodents again, some craftsmen recommend starting with creating a “barrier” for mice. In particular, under the coating in the area of ​​the mouse passage, you can pour cement mortar, mixed with broken glass or iron filings.

The next step is to remove all the baseboards and cut out the damaged area or strip using an appropriate power tool. New parts are glued or nailed to the base with hardware.

The last stage is sanding, or better yet, complete sanding of the floor, followed by varnishing or painting. If the shades of the floorboards differ by more than 2 tones, you can try to tint the planks with stain or protective and decorative glazes.

In case severe damage Some experts suggest sewing the entire floor area on top of wood sheet materials– plywood, chipboard, OSB and others. This is a good option, but only if you intend to lay a new one on top finishing coat, resistant to abrasion, dirt, shock.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for selecting them. Just submit in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and companies by email. You can see reviews about each of them and photographs with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

A pure wood floor has a number of advantages: it is warm, environmentally friendly, durable and aesthetically pleasing. Like any covering, a wood floor wears out and deforms over time, and cracks and cracks appear in it.

Why seal cracks in the floor?

Before you begin to eliminate gaps in the floor, you need to find out why these defects occurred.

• If the floor is covered new wood, most likely it dried out. An annual re-coating may be required, which will have to be done for three years.
• If the cause of cracks in a wooden floor is the active activity of rodents, it is necessary to take measures to eliminate their colonies, otherwise the holes will appear again.
• If the boards are installed incorrectly and vibrate relative to each other, only nailing them to the joists will help.

Attention! Good options Oak and coniferous wood is considered to be used for flooring.

It is necessary to get rid of cracks in the floor so that the coating continues to perform its important functions:

• provide the necessary thermal insulation, retain heat in the room, and prevent cold air masses from passing through the gaps;
• protect from third-party sounds and noises - wood conducts sound waves well, so holes in the boards can aggravate the problem;
• protect the room from moisture penetration, mold and pests.

After properly sealing the cracks, the boards will not rub against each other and make unpleasant squeaks.

Attention! A wooden floor needs ventilation in the form of vents. If a decision is made to eliminate them, it is necessary to carry out vent through the room itself.

How and with what to seal cracks

When the main risks have been identified and the causes of cracks have been eliminated, you can proceed directly to eliminating the flaws.

Repair using ready-made wood putty is the easiest sealing option. Factory putty will free the craftsman from preparing complex compositions and will help him get the job done quickly.

Putty is suitable for filling cracks small sizes. If the area of ​​the flaw is large, the composition can quickly crack and crumble. Ready-made putty can also be used when you plan to lay another floor covering on the wood.

Work order:

• If necessary, widen the cracks with a spatula or screwdriver to make the solution easier to apply.
• Cracks are cleaned of dust and debris.
• Use a narrow or rubber spatula to grab a certain amount of putty. Next, it is applied to the crack, trying to press it as deep as possible.
• After the putty has dried, after about 1-2 days, the surface is cleaned and sanded with sandpaper.

Attention! The disadvantage of factory putties is the rather limited color palette, due to which the seams become visible to the naked eye.

Sealing cracks with tow is considered the “old-fashioned” method and also does not require much effort. Tow is traditionally used in plumbing work for sealing threads and pipe connections. This coarse fiber is a product of processing bast crops. It has a high degree of hygroscopicity, strength, wear resistance, and is safe for health.

To seal cracks in a wooden floor, tow must be soaked in an adhesive composition. Then the fiber is carefully driven into the gap, trying to fill the entire space. After the glue has dried, the floor can be painted in the desired shade.

Tow can be replaced with synthetic rope. It is impregnated with PVA glue and used in the same way. After drying, the remaining rope can be cut off and the surface can be painted.

Construction foam for sealing cracks

A universal solution for sealing holes in floor covering wood can become polyurethane foam. It is used mainly when processing the perimeter of the room - in the area of ​​​​plinths.

Step by step steps:

• The skirting boards are carefully removed, being careful not to touch the boards on the floor.
• The surface is cleaned of old dirt, sand and dust.
• Pieces of foam plastic are placed into large cracks.
• The free space is filled with construction foam.
• Wait the time necessary for the mixture to harden, cut off the excess.
• The entire perimeter of the room is puttied, and after the putty dries, the plinths are installed in their original place.

Attention! Use construction foam need to be done carefully, in minimal quantities, since a large volume of the mixture can raise the floor at the junction with the wall.

Sawdust with glue

Inexpensive, but effective way get rid of a gap in a wooden floor - use a mixture of sawdust and glue. The composition can be prepared independently according to a certain algorithm:

• Prepare small sawdust and pour it into a large container.
• Pour boiling water over the sawdust until a thick, homogeneous mass is formed.
• When the sawdust absorbs water, swells and cools, add glue. You can use regular wood glue or PVA as a basis.
• Mix the mixture thoroughly until smooth.
• Using a spatula, scoop up a small amount of the compound and apply it into the space between the boards. It is necessary to completely fill the gap, but do not compact it with force.
• Level the filled mixture and remove excess glue.

This homemade putty should dry in 2-3 days. After drying, the surface should be sanded or sanded.

Another option adhesive composition- with the addition of cement:

• glue is mixed with warm water in a ratio of 2:15;
• add 5 parts of sawdust and cement to the mixture;
• The components are mixed and infused for 5-7 minutes.

Sealant

The main purpose of sealants is to create a reliable coating that is impermeable to moisture. Wooden floors It is best to treat with sealants intended for interior use:

• acrylic- they shrink relatively significantly and do not withstand temperature changes well, but acrylic lends itself well to painting and sanding to a perfectly smooth state;
• silicone- they are more plastic, resistant to compression and deformation loads, have good adhesion, but are not suitable for further painting.

Work progress:

1. Clean the cracks from dust and dirt and dry if necessary.
2. Ensure stable temperature and humidity conditions.
3. Squeeze the sealant into the space between the floorboards.
4. Distribute the mixture evenly using a spatula, spatula or gloved fingers.
5. Remove excess with a dry cloth.

Sealing compounds do not require special effort when filling. The gun, with which a portion of the sealant is supplied, creates required pressure and allows for tight filling of holes.

Each of the above methods for eliminating cracks in a wooden floor is proven and effective. In order for the result to meet expectations, it is necessary to carry out preliminary preparation surfaces and carefully follow the application technology.