Detailed drawings of timber houses. How to make a house from a bar with your own hands: projects. Ways of fastening the beam to the foundation

Since ancient times, people have believed that wooden houses- a symbol of safety and reliability.

Timber houses hold heat well and are considered environmentally friendly.

Design of houses from a bar

The basis for the construction of any building is its design, both for wood and for concrete and brick houses, for wooden, this part of the building is also applicable. Design wooden houses proceeds in several stages.

Preparatory, when one engineer or team prepares equipment for the subsequent stages of drawing the required object. It should be noted that before, when there were no automated systems for drawing, it was necessary to expend a little more effort to obtain the final drawing, and sometimes they worked on it in droves. With the advent of such systems, the work has been simplified, and even one engineer can handle it.

The calculation stage is that engineers draw necessary building from a bar on special programs. First, the foundations are drawn, and then the walls of the house, partitions, floors, ceiling structures for the roof, connectors for doors and windows, after which the various loads that affect the house are calculated, as well as the load of the house on the base and the ground as a whole. This is done so that the structure is stable and does not collapse in the first month of operation.

architectural stage. At this stage, the future design of the house is selected. When building a house from a bar, one of the following types material: profiled, glued, solid timber or round logs. At the same stage, the interior, doors and windows are selected.

The final stage is characterized by the completion of all work related to the design of the future log house, and the transition to another stage of construction - the preparation of a trench for the foundation.

The main types of timber, construction stages

As mentioned above, the beam is divided into four main types:

The beam is glued. The manufacturing technology of glued laminated timber is as follows: logs harvested for construction are sawn into boards, which are dried, treated with various kinds of antiseptics and get rid of wood defects (knots, cracks). After preparation, the boards, subsequently glued together with heavy-duty waterproof glue, are sent to Hydraulic Press. So it turns out ready-made material for building a house.

Profiled bar. This building material is obtained by planing or milling. To begin with, the workpiece, depending on the required section, is given a rectangular or square shape. After that, the material is placed in a special chamber, where the drying process takes place to a certain level of humidity. In the future, the material goes through the profiling process on the machine. In the finished profile cut interlock connections for a specific project, with the help of which the house assembly process takes place. The main stages of construction from profiled timber are exactly the same as in the case of glued laminated timber.

Solid timber is obtained mainly by milling on four sides whole log, thanks to which the beam acquires the correct geometric shape with 4 flat surfaces. When building houses from solid timber logs are very tightly stacked to each other. This is necessary so that water does not penetrate inside the house. This fact subsequently has a positive effect on the longevity of wood and eliminates the possibility of its decay. It should be noted that a well-mounted structure does not require the use of heaters, as it prevents the penetration of wind and frost inside.

Round log. Like the previous one, this type is processed by milling on a special machine, subsequently a log is obtained that has the same diameter along the entire length. The main difference between a rounded log and a solid beam is that the log remains round, the beams are given a different geometric profile.

It is customary to distinguish the following stages of building houses from various kinds timber:

Production and procurement of a set of log cabins for building a house.
Construction of various types of foundations. Basically, tiled and bored foundations with grillage are used.
Assembly of a house from a log house into a single structure and installation of a roof.
Mounting engineering networks, which are laid directly in the timber.
Clean finish. After installing doors, windows and insulation, all surfaces are processed special formulations for wood, after which the skirting boards are installed.

Advantages and disadvantages of wooden houses

In order to understand whether we build or not build wooden house need to understand its advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages:

The main advantage of a wooden house is, of course, its environmental friendliness, since various chemicals are not used during construction.
Houses, due to their cleanliness, are filled with beautiful, oxygenated air.
Such houses look great even without external decoration, which plays a decisive role for northern regions. In cold conditions, paint suffers greatly on exterior finish and needs to be updated periodically.
Low price. Unlike expensive bricks and concrete, almost anyone can afford a log house, and get an additional bonus in the form of an interior interior for the remaining money.
Due to the tight joining of the log house parts, houses built of timber have excellent thermal qualities and excellent sound insulation.
Ease of assembly. Even a person who does not have special skills in construction is able to assemble his own log house.

Flaws:

The main disadvantage of wood is its low thermal stability. It is one of the most combustible materials, and there is a high possibility of its ignition when living in such a house.
Long building process from the development of the foundation to the process of laying the roof.

Tree species used for log cabins: main types

At the design stage, it is already necessary to think about the material for the log house. The most commonly used wood species are: spruce, pine, larch and oak. In order to understand what is better for the house, it is necessary to disassemble each breed separately.

Oak. This breed is weakly exposed to decay processes and is distinguished by hardness, strength, resistance to climatic and other types of loads. However, such wood is difficult to process due to excessive hardness.

Larch. Although larch belongs to coniferous trees, in its qualities it still resembles oak more than needles. The wood of this tree is stable, like oak, resists external negative influences, however, in terms of its composition, it is the most pleasant material for processing.

Pine. it conifer tree, most often used in the construction of wooden houses, as it has the most best qualities for processing: a fairly straight trunk with a good margin of safety; the presence of resin in the pine, which improves its water resistance, and therefore this breed does not rot.

Spruce. In the construction of houses, spruce is used much less frequently than another coniferous tree - pine. However, in a dry state, spruce is not inferior in strength to pine, and, unlike pine, spruce does not turn blue and does not spoil the aesthetic component. But due to the fact that spruce contains less resin than pine, it is exposed to moisture, and, accordingly, rots more often.

Summing up, it should be noted that both when designing and building a house made of wood, it is necessary to take into account many important factors: how long will the project be developed and the construction of the house will continue, what type of timber is optimal for construction, what type of wood to choose? Therefore, in order to get what was planned, it is necessary to carefully approach each stage of construction.

I wanted to build a house. Immediately faced with the problem of material selection. There was not much money, but I wanted to get a reliable, warm and durable house. Having studied the proposals of the modern construction market, I decided to stop at

On the forums, it is advised to build houses with a section of 15x15 cm. But I had to build it myself, sometimes with a friend, i.e. I didn’t want to involve third-party workers, so I decided not to use a heavy 15-centimeter beam. Instead, I bought dry material with a section of 15x10 cm. Then, when the wood shrinks, I will insulate the walls from the outside mineral wool and the house will be warm.

To further save on construction, I decided to use only local materials. You can take my story as an example of guidance and navigate the situation.

Foundation pouring

First, I cleared the area under the house from debris, bushes and other interfering things. After that, he began to arrange the foundation.

I had to think for a long time what type of foundation would be suitable specifically for my area. Studied the geological conditions, found out the composition of the soil and the level of occurrence groundwater. The specialized reference literature helped me with this. In addition, I asked the neighbors on what foundations their houses stand.

I live in the Ryazan region. Local conditions make it possible to save on the arrangement of foundations, so most of the neighbors' houses stand on light supports made of limestone and concrete. Most often, they even refuse reinforcement - such is our wonderful soil. The soil is sandy, therefore, it is not "heaving". The water runs deep, and wooden houses weigh a little. Therefore, there is no need to equip buried monolithic supports in my region.

Started by digging trenches. To begin with, he removed the fertile ball. Sand appeared. For a better seal, I spilled it with water. Then he laid out the trenches with stone and laid two reinforcing bars. Bandaged them in the corners. I think that the tape is best reinforced both at the bottom and at the top. And so he did.

To save yourself from unnecessary work, you could order a ready-made building concrete with delivery. However, in my region this turned out to be unrealistic - there are simply no such proposals. And my plot is such that the truck would have to go through the garden, but I don’t need this.

Alas, this way of saving will not work in every region. For example, if I lived somewhere in the Moscow region, I would have to make formwork, install a spatial reinforcing frame, and only then pour the building mixture.

While the concrete is gaining strength (and it takes 3-4 weeks for this), I will prepare the consumables.

Bar prices

Find out more detailed nuances from our new article on our portal.

Preparatory activities

Preparation of dowels

The connection of the crowns of the beam is carried out using wooden dowels. I decided to make them from scraps of boards left over from other construction activities. In my case, it was the arrangement of the roof lathing.

For pins, use as much as possible solid wood. The process of making fasteners is extremely simple. I took the board scraps and beveled them on one side with a suitable saw.

Then I set the stop and started sawing to size. In my situation, the size was 12 cm. As a result, I got neat and beautiful blanks.

Planks sawn with band saw. As a result, I received a whole box of wooden sticks. Next, I sharpened the blanks with an ax on each side and got my dowels.

Moss preparation

Nagels, sphagnum peat moss and planks

The technology requires that between each crown of the timber be laid Professionals usually insulate roll materials. Working with them is easy and convenient - just roll the material over the laid crown and you can continue to work. However, you have to pay for the convenience and ease of processing.

I decided not to spend money and use moss. Firstly, this material is full in nature - go and collect. Secondly, moss is not only a decent insulation, but also an excellent antiseptic. In addition, he worked through thematic forums: moss is actively used as interventional insulation, and there are no negative reviews about it.

For insulation, red or peat moss is best suited. The first one is highly rigid. The second after drying becomes brittle. It is best to use red moss whenever possible. It is easy to recognize it - these are long stems with leaves resembling a Christmas tree.

Making jambs

I make them for every door and window opening. For this I use even beam. Knots, if possible, should not be at all. For greater convenience, I made an impromptu workbench directly next to the stack of my lumber. Made longitudinal cuts. A circular saw helped me with this. Excess material was removed with a chisel.

Not even every professional carpenter can do the right jamb. Therefore, I decided to make jambs for windows using a simplified technology. In every window opening I will install only a couple of vertical jambs. The window block will be directly responsible for the horizontal connection.

To install the block, you need a "quarter". However, here I figured out how to simplify the task. Instead of a sample (it is shaded in the photo), I decided to paste the bar. To do this, the plane was sharpened in advance. The result turned out no worse than it would have been in a situation using a quarter.

It is impossible to reduce the number of jambs in the doorway - all four are needed. However, the shape of the products can be greatly simplified.

I chose in the bar, which in the future will be the threshold, grooves similar to the recesses in the side jambs. This allowed me to put the bottom bar on the spikes of the opening. However, at this stage, the timber would have to be cut with a chisel across the wood fibers - the occupation is not the most pleasant and simple. I found a great way out of this situation! Taking a circular saw, I prepared the cuts, having previously set the appropriate output of the disc and made parallel stop.

Then I took a spade drill and made a hole with a diameter of 2.5 cm, as for dowels. At the end, I sawed out an even rectangle across the wood fibers. A reciprocating saw helped me with this.

Carpenters usually make two rectangular nests in the threshold, and from the bottom of each vertical jamb they make out a reciprocal ledge, cutting down and sawing out excess wood with a chisel. I decided to make holes, as for mounting dowels, and scored a couple of fasteners. I made similar holes at the bottom of the jambs.

I haven’t touched the upper horizontal beam yet, but I nailed a small board to the threshold - it will take over the functions of the “quarter”. Making the opening turned out to be extremely simple, but to cope with your main function it doesn't bother him. In the future, I will cut the opening and glue the “quarters”.

Required Tools

To build a house from wooden beam I used the following tools and fixtures:

hammerless electric drill;
circular saw;
roulette;
sledgehammer;
electric planer;
square;
reciprocating saw;
plumb;
a hammer;
water hose;
axe.

To cut a wooden beam, I bought a circular saw. I had to cut in two passes. First, he drew a line on the square, after which he cut, turned the beam over and again made a cut. It is best to transfer the line to the second face of the beam also using a square. If you are confident in your "eye", you can cut "by eye".

With the help of a circular saw, I made spikes and grooves for corner connections bars. When arranging the spikes, I lacked a slight depth of cut, so I had to make a couple of extra movements with a hacksaw.

Building a house

Rules for laying the lower crown

Laying the starting crown is traditionally done with a joint known as "in the floor of the tree". This knot is made without any problems with a circular saw - it is enough to cut the material along and across. In some areas, the depth of cut turned out to be insufficient - here I worked with a hacksaw, after which I got rid of excess material with a chisel. By the way, in my case, the lower crown is the only one that is connected with nails.

I put the lower crown on the lining of the boards. There are gaps between the elements - in the future I will make air gaps there. In my area they are usually in the wall, not in concrete base. This option has its advantages. Firstly, making vents in the wall is easier and faster. Secondly, at a certain elevation, the wind moves at a higher speed than directly at the ground, due to which the underground will be better ventilated.

Bar cutting. Connection "in half a tree"

I am going to mount the floor beams on the linings - so, as I think, the loads on the base will be distributed more evenly.

Linings and timber of the lower crown covered. As practice shows, the material laid at the very bottom rots the fastest. In my situation, there are linings below, and not the timber itself. In the future, if the boards rot, they can be replaced with much less effort than the beam of the lower crown.

reciprocating saw prices

reciprocating saw

Features of laying the second and subsequent crowns

Starting from the second crown of masonry, work is carried out in the same order. At the corners, I connected the timber with the help of root spikes - the usual adjunction of elements is unacceptable here.

Taking a circular saw, he cut a couple of cuts. The cutting line was transferred to the second face with the help of a square. The root spike is easy to do, everything is shown in the photo. If the disk output is insufficient, the depth can be increased with a hacksaw. The groove is even easier. Also shown in the photo.

Important note! Keep in mind that in the joints of the tongue and groove type there should be approximately 0.5 cm gap for laying the sealant. A joint where the wood just touches the wood is unacceptable.

First, I set the depth of cut I needed. With my saw, you can change the output of the disc without any problems - just loosen the lever. The add-on is easy to use. If in traditional carpentry, the master sets some parameter of the working tool and prepares required amount blanks of the same type, then in carpentry the situation is somewhat different: the material is dragged onto the workbench, and the depth of cut is adjusted directly in the course of work.

My saw is equipped with a thin blade - it takes much less effort to cut. The safety guard moves very smoothly and does not interfere with the cut.

My house will have walls longer than timber, so I will have to splice the building material. To do this, I made a gash from both ends of a long beam, removed the excess with a chisel and got a spike in the middle. The ledge is ready, now we need a groove. Cutting wood with a chisel across the fibers is not practical. I went to the trick and drilled a simple through hole in the second bar. The drill was not long enough to create through hole so I had to drill from both sides. Next, I cut off excess wood from the workpiece, made markings and cut through the beam along the fibers with a chisel. Connected spliced bars. Gaps filled with moss.

Useful advice. In the crown, which is the beginning of the opening, it is better to immediately make spikes for the jambs of this opening. In the process of cutting the timber, it will not be possible to completely make the spikes with a saw, it will be necessary to additionally gouge with a chisel to complete the process. On the next photo you see the bars already with mounting spikes. Thresholds for door openings are shown as templates.

He laid the second crown on the lower one, correctly completing the corner joints and the necessary splices along the length. It's time to make markings for installing dowels - connectors for the crowns of my house under construction. I took a square and put down vertical marks on the bars at the bottom and top, in the places where the fasteners would be placed. Turned over the top bar. Moved the markup to the center of my beam. After I drilled holes for the fasteners and drove the dowels into them with a hammer.

What do you need to know about pins?

Logically, a round dowel would have to be driven into a round hole. Builders, on the other hand, adhere to a different technology and use dowels. square section. Such fasteners are also easier to manufacture, and the connection is held much more reliably. At the same time, a short dowel will not interfere with the process of shrinkage of the structure.

The problem is what to drill hand drill strictly vertical hole without the slightest deviation is impossible. When installing the beam of the next crown on a pointed and slightly protruding dowel, the first one will stagger a little. In order for the timber to be firmly fixed, it must be additionally besieged with a sledgehammer.

The dowels I use work for shear and ensure proper shrinkage even if there are slight deviations from the vertical in the mounting holes. There will be no cracks. First, the timber will shrink. Secondly, the space between the crowns is filled with insulation, which I will discuss later.

Once I had to observe how builders made holes in the wall from a bar using a long drill and drove long round dowels into them, outwardly similar to cuttings from a shovel or rake. Were these holes vertical? Naturally, no. In the end, the beam did not settle, but seemed to “hang” on the dowels, which led to the formation of impressive gaps between the crowns.

Having driven in pins, I laid tow and moss on the crown. The tow was laid across the bars. Moss just sprinkled on the tow. As a result, tow hangs from the walls. Thanks to this, in the future it will be easier for me to caulk the walls. Moss will also provide decent building insulation.

I installed the bars on the dowels, laid the tow, threw in the moss, besieged the crown with a sledgehammer, but for some reason it is still staggering. This happens due to the presence of gaps in the corner joints. In my situation, the dimensions of these gaps were up to 0.5 cm. I filled them tightly with moss. A spatula and a narrow strip of metal helped me with this.

The attentive reader will ask: what about tow? Is it not necessary to lay in the corners and her? No, it doesn `t need. First, as I said earlier, moss is a very good natural antiseptic. My house will stand for a long time without any finishing, and sedimentary moisture will now and then drain in the corners. Moss will not let the wood rot in these places. Secondly, in the future, the beam in the corners will probably have to be cut. Moss will not interfere with this. Tow can also lead to breakage of the planer.

Tow prices

Now my corners are strong, insulated and windproof. At the end of the day, I covered the corner joints in order to protect them from possible precipitation.

In the picture you can see that one of my beams is located higher than the other. But they must be at the same height. We are not in a hurry to immediately turn on the electric planer - it is quite possible to cope with such a problem with a simple sledgehammer.

I worked with a planer at the very end, when the interference with the installation of the next crown became clearly visible. With a planer, I compared small “screws” and “humps”. He compensated for more significant differences in height with the help of tow and moss - it takes much less time to arrange them than to process wood with a planer.

What does it cost us to build a house!

You have already familiarized yourself with the basic principles of laying each crown. There is important nuances. Firstly, the crowns must be laid with alternating corner joints. Secondly, the internal load-bearing wall of the house must be connected to the longitudinal wall. This is done through one crown. For binding, I use an already proven and familiar connection. Only here I drill holes for dowels “staggered” in relation to the lower crowns. After that, I lay tow and moss, and placing each beam in the place intended for it, I seal the joints in the corners.

That is, the procedure for building a house is extremely simple:

I lay another crown;
I make markings for dowels;
drill holes;
I drive in wooden fasteners;
I lay tow, I throw moss on it;
I repeat the sequence.

Along the length of the bars, they are joined by the “spread out” method.

Having reached the height of the window sill (this is my seventh crown), I made a markup for arranging window openings. I calculated the width of each opening by adding the dimensions of the jambs and sealed gaps to the width of the purchased window unit. On each side of the opening there should be a pair of gaps - between the jamb and the installed window block, as well as between the jamb and the wall of the house. As a result, in my situation, the required width of the window opening was 1325 mm. Of these, 155 mm went to the gaps.

According to the results of the calculation, I installed a crown with a window opening, having previously cut spikes in the bars, similar to the stage with door openings.

The following crowns with a window opening were laid from bars without spikes, observing the same overall dimensions.

I equipped all the window openings from “shorty pieces”, the evenness of which was disturbed during the shrinkage of the timber - such material would not work for walls, but it’s a pity to throw it away. Didn't do jumpers. Equipping the opening, he constantly checked its evenness with a plumb line. I also checked the walls.

I temporarily fastened a separate wall with rails so that it would not fall during work. The T-shaped structure, as well as the corner, do not need additional reinforcement - they are perfectly held by their own weight.

Important note! In the places where the spikes of the opening and the cut line are arranged, i.e. only a few centimeters from the edge, I did not lay the tow, because when sawing, it would be wound around the cutting disc. In the future, the tow is knocked out from the ends without any problems.

After laying the last crown with a window opening (it needs to be temporarily laid without fixing and sealing), I removed the upper bars and made cuts for the spikes. He put them on jambs. Having set the saw blade to the required depth, I set a parallel stop to maintain the desired indent from the edge. It didn't take me much time to do this. I didn’t succeed in cutting the timber to the desired depth with a circular saw - I had to finish it with a hacksaw.

AT lower crown opening I made spikes to control my assembly. I did not do this in the last crown - in the future, the spikes will still have to be created in each beam.

On the personal experience I made sure that assembling the entire height of the opening for a window without a connection, and from not quite “shorty”, is not an easy task.

Light and short cuts can be tried on before making a recess or spike. It may well turn out that a bar deviating to the left will fall on a bar deviating to the right. As a result, a flat wall will be built. If both beams deviate in the same direction, you can not count on the evenness of the wall.

To eliminate deviations, you can plan the “screws” with a planer, or lay the timber with a “ladder”. It was my second case. I also eliminated the gap with a planer. At each stage, I checked the verticality of the openings being erected using a plumb line.

Jamb installation and shutdown

Placed the top crown. It's time to mount the jambs of each opening. Thanks to these simple elements, the strength of the finished structure will be significantly increased. The lower bar of each opening is equipped with a full-fledged spike. On the upper bars there are cuts in the required places. I attach a guide, set the desired depth of cut and make a cut with a circular saw. After that, I draw a couple of lines from the ends according to the size of the spike and get rid of excess material with the help of a chisel.

My spikes have a smaller width than the grooves. I fill the gaps with thermal insulation material. If you wish, you can make the spikes wider, and only then, at the stage of finishing the house, cut down excess material and fill the gaps with a sealant.

Inserted temporary spacers between the jambs. In the future, I planned to attach a veranda to my house. If you are planning to make an extension, do not lay top crown timber before the start of its construction. I also mounted less on the crown.

The box is ready. I covered it with a temporary roof, closed every opening and left the house until the next season. The beam will just have time to shrink. After that, I will continue, which I will definitely tell you about in my next story.

Instead of a conclusion

While the house is shrinking, I decided to take stock. Firstly, I was glad that I had to spend much more on the foundation less money when compared with other types of supports. It took some money to dump the stone. There is also a lot of sand in my region - you can dig it yourself and bring it. Most of the money was spent on cement and rebar.

Secondly, I was pleased with the affordable cost and relatively low consumption of building material. When the timber was brought to me, I laid it out in a pile about a meter high and two meters wide. At first it seemed that I miscalculated somewhere and there was not enough material for me. As a result, about 20 bars remained unused. In general, I spent about 7.5 m3 of timber with a section of 15x10 cm for the construction of a house with dimensions of 6x10 m (the timber part in it accounts for 6x7.5 m). I would have spent 1.5 times more money on a timber of 15x15 cm. Yes, and additional labor would have to be hired, which is also not free.

Thirdly, I saved on fasteners and thermal insulation. Nageli made himself, the moss is free. The tow was given to me with pleasure by my friends after the completion of their construction activities.

Fourthly, I did not have to buy highly specialized and expensive tools. Everything that I used for construction will be useful to me in the future. Particularly pleased with the acquisition of a good circular saw and concrete mixers.

Now about the speed of work. I did not have much experience in building from a bar. As practice has shown, for the whole day, working in one hand and subject to good weather on the street, you can lay out one crown with a partition. You can do it both faster and slower, I will not argue.

And the main advantage of such construction is that it does not require any special skills to carry it out. And I personally convinced myself of this.

I hope that my story will be useful to you, and you will be able, just like me, to make your dream of owning your own home come true.

Video - Do-it-yourself log house

For hundreds of years, our ancestors built wooden houses, during this time many new, modern building materials have appeared, but people invariably return to natural materials and the best of them is considered to be a tree.

Wooden houses:

warm,
reliable,
beautiful,
durable.

But they have another important advantage, a wooden house is quite easy to build. Having 3 people who know how to use carpentry, locksmith tools as assistants, in one season you can build a good wooden house, from profiled or glued beams, and with your own hands.

Important: You can lay the foundation in advance while it is warm, and build the house itself when the cold comes.

What is a bar

The most popular are two types. Profiled timber is a wooden product, square or rectangular section.

The beam can be even, geometrically regular shape. Or profiled, having a certain profile, which allows the product to be joined more tightly at the junction points.

Glued laminated timber appeared relatively recently, it can be called a product of new, advanced technologies.

Visually, it looks like a profiled one. But the production technology is more complex. Glued laminated timber consists of several layers of wood, fastened using a special technology. It is stronger, more durable and easier to work with.

Important: Profiled timber can shrink up to 50 mm per 1m, depending on the dryness of the timber. Glued laminated timber shrinks, on average, by 10-15 mm.

The thickness of the timber ranges from 90 mm to 275 mm.

The most popular are the profile section:

100 mm by 150 mm.
100 mm by 200 mm.
150 mm by 200 mm.
180 mm by 200 mm.

At the maximum standard length up to 12m.

Wall length

Wall width

Wall height

Bar section

150x150 mm. 180x180 mm. 200x200 mm.

Beam length

5 m 6 m 7 m 8 m 9 m 10 m 11 m 12 m

We are preparing a project

You will not be able to build from a bar without a project.

It is no secret that in the CIS, there are many countries, and the level of bureaucracy is practically the same. We provide a list of the main documents that you will need to prepare.

A foundation drawing is required, with a detailed description with a full layout by material, composition, depth, etc. As well as detailed data on the soil, composition, quality, ground water etc.
The next number, building plan. You prepare it based on the drawing of the foundation, but also with detailed description.
After you need a floor, detailed plan. In it, indicate in detail partitions, stoves, fireplaces, windows, doors, etc.
Another, really important document, scatter. Simply put, this detailed drawing sectional walls of the house. By unloading, you will be able to place an order for the manufacture of timber, it will be made for you and marked as a designer. Then just look at the numbers and collect.
Specification of every detail of the house.
Detailed drawing of the roof, with a detailed description of all layers.
Final view of the house.

Please note: take seriously the description of the timber itself, what kind of wood, what kind of profile, the level of dryness of the timber, etc. This will eliminate misunderstandings when ordering.

The package of documents is solid, of course, you can rest, although the work is painstaking, but you yourself are quite capable. But my advice is don't waste your time. The collection of papers may take longer than the construction itself. Trust the professionals, they will be happy to help you on our website and it will cost you much less than amateur performance.

Foundation laying

To build houses from a bar, a capital, expensive foundation is not required. These structures are relatively light in weight.

For construction

Shallow strip foundation. This type of foundation is laid in a trench and has a maximum depth of up to 50 cm.
Mixed or strip-column foundation. This type is similar to tape. But in all important nodes, has reinforcement in the form of concrete pillars.
Columnar. This foundation is based on pillars connected by a concrete or metal grillage.
On screw metal piles or piles with screws. Product modern technologies. Metal, corrosion-resistant piles are screwed into the ground and connected with a grillage. The foundation is convenient, also because it is easily repaired.
On wooden piles, at the present time it is rarely used, since the tree, no matter how you process it, still deteriorates in the ground.
On concrete piles. The foundation is excellent, but expensive. To drive a concrete pile, you will need special construction equipment.

In order to build from a bar, the first 4 options are enough. The instructions below, with minor amendments, are suitable for the first 3 types of foundation.

Tape

Any foundation starts with markings. For marking, we use ordinary wooden pegs and fishing line. At a distance of 30-40 cm from the projected wall, we drive in the pegs and pull the fishing line.
The body of the foundation will be indicated not by driven pegs, but by a fishing line.

Important: after stretching the fishing line, you should measure the diagonals. The distance along the diagonals must be strictly the same. Even the slightest discrepancy speaks of wrong angles, and you will get an asymmetrical foundation.

We take out the soil to a depth of 50 cm. Consider the thickness of the formwork. Control the bottom of the trench by level.
Next, we make 2 pillows up to 10 cm each. Sand, plus gravel.
We proceed to the installation of formwork.
We invest in waterproofing, the most budget option, this is roofing material or thick, technical polyethylene.
We weld or knit a reinforcing, metal frame.
We fill it with concrete, it is better to fill it all at once, in a complex way. Order a mixer, pour the foundation in one go and wait for it to harden.
Remove the formwork, and in its place pour a cushion of rubble.

mixed foundation

It differs from the previous tape one by the presence of reinforcing pillars at the corners of the structure and at the most stressed nodes. Therefore, to the above, instructions for pouring the pillars with your own hands are added.

We drill a hole under each post, to a depth of 1m.
We make a similar mastering of sand and gravel.
We turn the pipe from the roofing material into 2-3 layers and fix it with adhesive tape.
We insert the pipe into the hole, mount reinforcing cage, 200 mm higher general level foundation.
Before the main pour, make the sole of the pillar. To do this, pour the solution into the pipe and raise the pipe, allowing the solution to spread. When the solution hardens a little, start pouring the entire foundation.

Column type foundation

The pillars in this foundation can be made, as in the previous version, from concrete. So lay out from a brick, in the form of a curbstone.

Just lay out the cabinet with a well, and insert the reinforcing cage inside and fill it with concrete.

Himself, the cabinets are set according to the level and a grillage is mounted on them.

The grillage can be concrete, then formwork is made on the pillars in the form of a bath, waterproofed, reinforcement is installed and concrete is poured. Or welded from metal, which is attached to the reinforcing cage of the pillars.

Making crowns

Crowns, this is the first row of timber. To build from timber good house, carefully consider the installation of crowns.

The video in this article clearly shows the installation of dowels.

Making the floor

At this stage, you should lay the foundation of the floor, a draft version. Final final version will be done along with interior decoration.

If you are building a relatively small building, bathhouse or garden house. It will be quite enough for you to lay an additional belt of timber along the perimeter, fasten it with a crown and mount logs on this belt.

But if the house is large area, the approach will be somewhat different.

With a large quadrature, separate pedestals should be laid out to support the floor, something similar to a separate foundation for the floor.

Depending on the composition of the soil, we lay the columns to a depth of half a meter.
We make them square 40x40 or 50x50. Bookmark step from 50 to 90 cm.
In layers up to about 10 cm, we lay and compact sand and gravel.
We make a small reinforcing cage, up to 10 cm high, install it and fill it with concrete.
Next, we waterproof this base and lay out a cabinet of bricks, to the level of the beams.
We lay down the waterproofing again and mount the beams.
We grab the logs to the beams with self-tapping screws.
Between the lag, with the help of a corner, we mount waterproof plywood.
We waterproof and glue all joints with adhesive tape.
We lay the insulation on top and cover it with a subfloor.

Building walls

If you did everything right before that, then building walls from a beam with your own hands will not be difficult for you.

The profiled beam already has special grooves, they will facilitate the connection.
Corner connection do as you like, there are 3 types of corner connection:

Back to back.
Half a tree.
By means of a root spike.

Be sure to lay insulation between the timber.
Control each laid beam by level and fix it with a dowel.
In the window area, leave technological gaps for shrinkage.

Important: when you put in the house bearing wall or supporting columns under the roof, they should not be rigidly fixed to the roof at first. Take self-tapping screws and that's enough. When the house begins to sit down and walk, you will have to adjust the height of the support. When you sit down, fix it completely.

This video will tell you about the intricacies of building walls.

Starting roof installation

Roof is enough milestone construction, but you can mount it yourself.

First, knock down a template from light boards. On it you will install the rafters.
Next, set the beginning and end of the construction according to the template.
Between the installed rafters, at control points, according to the level, we stretch the strings from the fishing line.
Focusing on the strings, controlling the level and template, we mount the rest of the rafters.
We fill the crate on top and fasten it with a stapler under the bottom, overlapping the vapor barrier.
Under the vapor barrier, between the rafters, we lay the insulation, close it with another layer of vapor barrier.
Next, we finally fix the bottom layer of the crate, it is already possible to attach the lining to it according to your taste and wallet.
Top most budget option, is a coating on the upper crate of the roofing material and on top of it sheets of slate.

Environmental friendliness and love for nature are the main reasons that made people fall in love with timber houses. In order for the dwelling to be comfortable, reliable, safe and functionally thought out to the smallest detail, first of all, it is necessary to carefully study the available drawings of timber houses.

Newsstands provide a lot of useful specialized literature on the topic of construction own house. But you can go further and use the services of a qualified specialist who will help recreate the individual "face" of the house.

Each individual project is the result painstaking work an architect who knows the construction technology and its specifics. The question is only one: the price? If it is a little confusing, it is quite appropriate to use standard project at home and customize it to suit your personal preferences.

Typical finished projects they are good because not only drawings are ready for them, but also the specification up to the last latch and self-tapping screw, construction technology has been developed. Using the ready-made documentation, you can not be afraid that you have to disassemble finished wall, because the purchased staircase does not fit into the house.

Key design milestones

Any drawing of a house from a bar implies the implementation step by step steps to help you build the home of your dreams with your own hands.

A kind of instruction includes:

choice of material. It is important to determine the required type and section of wood;
creation of a floor plan of the building, dimensions of facades and foundations;
determination of the scheme and drawing of roof slopes, specification of door and window openings;
calculate the consumption of raw materials based on the size and area of the cottage.

Advice!
For a better visual perception of the future structure, it is recommended to use a special computer program, which will allow you to see the house in three dimensions.

Ergonomic houses

Properly selected drawings of wooden houses made of timber will delight with their neatness, beneficial microclimate and comfort. After reviewing some of the samples, in the future you can make some adjustments to the layout you like and change it in accordance with personal wishes.

Wooden one-story house with an attic

The photo shows the project compact cottage with an attic from .

The ground floor space contains:

living room-hall with an interfloor staircase;
entrance vestibule with dressing area;
kitchen combined with a guest room;
small bedroom;
bathroom with shower.

The attic area consists of:

working office,
bedrooms,
bathroom.

Everything is quite concise and tasteful:

the material of the outer walls and partitions of the house are made of glued laminated timber;
exterior wall decoration - impregnation;
overlapping is carried out on wooden beams;
bituminous tiles are used as a roof.

Wooden one-story house with an attic, a terrace and a sauna

The original project of glued laminated timber represents a cottage of a fairly roomy type. Most of the first floor is occupied by the living room, connected to the hall, where the spiral staircase "found itself" ideally.

The house is made in a special ergonomic style, harmoniously accommodating a bath, shower and boiler room in its space. Its peculiarity lies in the arrangement of the terrace, which leads to the living room.

On the second floor are located:

two bedrooms,
hall,
bathroom,
dressing room, which is very convenient.

The exterior walls are made of wood, the roof is made of metal tiles.

A house made of timber is good, but with a bathhouse it is doubly better

Which of the owners suburban area does not feel the desire to acquire a bathhouse. What material to use? According to what "scenario" to build it? More on this later.

The immediate process of building a bath is preceded by the creation of its project. A drawing of a bath from a bar will allow you to determine the right dimensions buildings, the required amount of materials and equipment. In other words, a successful plan is the key to a competent construction.

Projects and drawings of log baths take into account the following details:

the number of people that the steam room can accommodate;
one-story or two-story planning;
frequency of use of the building;
the presence of a terrace, a billiard room or a relaxation room.

Drawings of a bath from a bar are distinguished by their aesthetic design and practicality in operation. In the construction of cottages and steam rooms, semicircular logs are used, which fit snugly against each other.

The classic layout of the steam room is quite in demand due to the already existing necessary miscalculations of material costs, which will save time and money.

Bath "Baby" - economic feasibility

Despite the fact that this bath is distinguished by its modest size (4x3), it is quite convenient, roomy and comfortable. Thanks to careful thought, its interior includes a steam room, a shower room and a relaxation room.

But the most important indisputable advantage of this project is its ergonomics and economy. After all, for a steam room, the main thing is heat. A room of this kind will be quite easy to heat up to the desired temperature at minimal cost.

Advice!
With possible laying strip foundation to a shallow depth without the use of a reinforcement frame.

Teremok with an attic

A two-story bath with an attic - increased comfort of your holiday. FROM practical point view, the building can be placed on small area, playing the role of not only a steam room, but also country house. In addition, the “teremok” can be used both for personal and commercial premises, since its interior contains all the necessary spectrum for a perfect holiday.

The attic floor is a multifunctional space where a bedroom, living room, lounge or kitchen can be located. In turn, the construction of the attic can significantly save on building material and labor force, getting rid of the need to equip an additional floor, which later requires significant energy costs for its heating.

Which is easier: independent design or purchase ready solution? To answer the question posed, it is necessary to carefully weigh all the pros and cons, and then take for yourself the right decision. Some factors must be taken into account.

For example, design two-story bath much more difficult than a one-story. This is due to the fact that in its construction it is necessary to correctly calculate the foundation and apply piles.

Conclusion

With at least a little experience in the construction industry, everything can be done by hand. But if there is none, then it will be cheaper to order a ready-made log house than to turn to professionals for help. It is important to take into account the moment of transporting the material and garbage disposal after. And this is nothing more than an additional item of expenditure.

Some options for house projects can be found in the video in this article. However, what could be better than the pleasure and bliss that a steam room gives. With this thought, it is not a pity for either money or time. Happy building!

Busy lifestyle in major city makes you want to get out into nature as often as possible to breathe clean air and take a break from the hustle and bustle of the city. For a comfortable stay, you need a well-appointed house. Having bought a plot of land in an ecologically clean area, you can build a house from a bar with your own hands, provide it with individual water supply, heating and a sewer system. In this article we will tell you how to build a house from a bar without construction experience, from the foundation to the roof.

House design

Making your own heating system is easy. Work in this direction begins after the installation of windows and doors. Choice heating systems for a private house depends on the nearby centralized communication systems. by the most simple option there will be a water circuit installation with parallel connection gas, electric and solid fuel boilers. This is a guarantee of warmth in the house in all weather conditions and cataclysms.

To divert wastewater, you need to independently equip a septic tank.

It is impossible to imagine life in a house without electricity. Mounting electric cable, wiring and connection of luminaires and household appliances it is better to entrust a highly qualified specialist.

When all the work is completed, you can invite friends to a housewarming party. The self-built house has special aura. It is always cozy and warm.