Pavel Ivanov will tell us about his homemade product - a jigsaw installed on the table. Here he is . The whole structure is made of scraps of 16 mm laminated chipboard. Frame parts (stop shoulder - from wooden blocks and pieces of plywood / MDF). Table width 250 mm
The electric jigsaw is fixed to the base with a pair of bolts screwed into the sole in front with a bolt at the back. The bolt heads are recessed into the base so that the sawn parts do not cling.
The stop for the file is made of a zero tire (sold in electrical stores), a piece of steel wire, and a pair of corners. In addition, a spare roller from a jigsaw was installed (attached in the kit). It is advisable to put the file more authentic.
Close attention should be paid to the roller and especially to the accuracy of its centering relative to the file. In no case should it touch the file, there should be a small gap, otherwise there will be a lot of noise during operation, heating of the rubbing assembly and vibration. First, it is advisable to assemble the shoulder-stop separately, put it in place (glue + long confirmations 3 pcs. Install a jigsaw with a file and only then screw the assembled assembly with a roller.
The shoulder of the stop was additionally reinforced with plywood triangles (strong vibration).
The stage table (this is the orange part) moves back and forth within the groove. During the "combat" tests, I sawed long (1.5 m) boards, so I just "screwed" the orange board to the base. 
Advantages, in comparison with a simple electric jigsaw: both hands are free to work, it cuts quite evenly - there is no walking of the file to the sides. It is possible to connect a vacuum cleaner to the standard jigsaw connector.
The downsides include weight and size. Still, it's stationary.
An electric jigsaw is an extremely useful tool, without which it is simply impossible to imagine many operations for processing wood and materials based on it today. With relatively low weight and compactness, manual jigsaw allows you to cut out products from workpieces quite complex configuration, but still sometimes it would be more convenient to use a stationary tool. It is often more convenient to work with them, in addition, the machine provides a more accurate cut. True, such a machine costs several times more than a manual jigsaw. Those who do not want to spend extra money on this equipment can make a jigsaw table with their own hands and get an inexpensive and efficient hybrid as a result. hand tool and machine.
Figure 1. Diagram of a table for a jigsaw.
The simplest device
Some kind of table for a jigsaw can be made in a few minutes. The advantage of this design lies in its simplicity. It is easily mounted on a workbench or countertop and can be easily disassembled if necessary. The disadvantage is its small area.
The working surface of the machine will be laminated plywood, in which holes are drilled for sawing and for installing fasteners. The plywood thickness must not be less than 10 mm. You may also need to prepare holes for the fastening screws in the sole of the power tool. The structure is attached to the workbench with clamps. The heads of the fixing screws must be flush with the plane of the sheet. Such a machine can easily cope with cutting small workpieces up to 30 mm thick. What the device looks like is shown in Figure No. 1.
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Second option
Another stationary fixture for working with wood consists of more parts, but making it is also easy. The bed of a table consists of 2 sidewalls and a back wall made of a chipboard. The machine does not have a front wall so that it is easy to get to the button. AT back wall holes are drilled for the cord and tube of the vacuum cleaner. The cover of the machine is made of laminated 10 mm plywood. The whole structure is pulled together by confirmations. The jigsaw is attached in the same way as in the first case.
Figure 2. Scheme of the frame-stop for a jigsaw.
On a home-made machine, you can saw larger workpieces, however, when working with thick wood, the jigsaw saw blade can deviate back and in both directions. This degrades the cutting accuracy. The disadvantage is eliminated by installing on homemade machine bracket-stop (figure No. 2). The jigsaw blade will move between 2 x 11mm bearings that are screwed to the L-shaped steel strip. The back side of the file will rest on the wall of the bracket. This design will not allow the working blade of the jigsaw to deviate from a given plane.
The bracket is attached to a frame made of birch bars 50 x 50 mm. It can be raised or lowered depending on the thickness of the material being processed and the length of the file. To do this, the frame with an emphasis is attached to the sidewall of the machine not tightly, but is pressed against it with a steel, hardboard or textolite plate. Vertical stand birch frame is located between the bed and the hardboard, into which 4 clamping bolts are inserted.
The area of the countertop depends on the size of the workpieces you are going to work with.
The machine can be made more perfect by installing a limit bar on it, which will help cut wood into blanks of the same thickness.
The limiter can be attached to the machine with clamps. It is made from wooden block, steel or aluminum corner. If desired, the bar can be installed on a sled attached to the bottom or sides of the table top. You can make 2 parallel slots in the countertop, along which the rail will move. Holes are drilled in it. Studs or screws with wing nuts are passed through them and slots. Roulette tapes are attached to the ends of the tabletop.
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Table made of bars and chipboard
Figure 3. Diagram of a table top for a jigsaw.
The manufacture of this table requires certain carpentry skills, since the connection of its tsarg with legs is carried out in a tenon-groove. However, dowels, wood glue and self-tapping screws can be used instead. The cover of the machine will be liftable to provide easier access to the tool when dismantling it. Figure 3 shows what the table top looks like. If desired, it can provide a place for installing a manual milling machine, then the machine will become multifunctional.
The table is made from:
- bars 80 x 80 mm;
- bars 40 x 80 mm;
- chipboard or laminated plywood 900 x 900 mm.
The distance between the legs can be from 600 to 700 mm. Bars for drawers and prolegs are obtained after longitudinal sawing of 80 x 80 bars. You can choose the height of the legs yourself, based on how convenient it will be to work on the machine. At each end of the tsarg and prolegs, 2 holes for dowels are drilled. Corresponding holes are made on the sidewalls of the legs. Dowels are coated with glue for half the length and inserted into the ends. After that, the frame is going to draft. After correcting possible shortcomings, it is pulled together completely. All contact surfaces before assembly are lubricated with glue. Additional structural strength will be given by self-tapping screws, which are screwed through holes prepared in advance for them.
The lid is attached to one of the drawers on the hinges, for this a slot is made in it to facilitate the installation and removal of the jigsaw. 2 strips with a selected quarter are screwed to the back of the tabletop, which will include the sole of the power tool. Holes are made in the slats into which clamping screws or bolts will be installed. A jigsaw fixed under the tabletop will be able to process thicker workpieces if a recess is made for its sole in the lid. The easiest way to make it is with a milling machine. The table turned out to be quite spacious, so a large thickness of plywood or chipboard can provide sufficient strength for its cover. Use 20mm or thicker sheets.
The article will primarily be useful to those people who often work with wood as a hobby, without making money from it. The author presents quite budget project desktop jigsaw, which can be assembled in one day, with minimal cost for materials.
To create a machine, you will need the following materials:
- Working manual jigsaw;
- Plywood;
- Self-tapping screws and bolts with nuts;
- Guides of furniture boxes;
- Two bearings;
- Tension spring;
- Spray can with paint;
- Self-adhesive paper.
Materials and tools are standard, available in each workshop.
Step 1. Case.
The first step is to create a body for a manual jigsaw from plywood. Here it is necessary to think in advance where the holes for the switch and the speed controller will be located.
It should come out like this:
Step 2. Table top.
It is better to take a thick piece of chipboard with good coverage, since workpieces will be rubbed on it during the operation of the machine.
A hole is drilled in the chipboard for the file. The jigsaw itself will be attached to the back of the countertop.
An extension for fastening the boom is also made from furniture rails:
Here's what it looks like assembled:
And the tabletop is attached to the body:
Step 3. Arrow.
The arrow itself will be made of two furniture rails. They are bolted together to increase rigidity.
The boom supports are made of chipboard. Before painting and installing them, the point of attachment of the boom to the support is measured. Before that, they must be installed in their place:
After that, holes must be drilled in the support for seats bearings.
Step 4. Painting.
Prepared supports are painted from a can.
While they dry, the machine itself is glued with self-adhesive.
Step 5. Assembly.
Bearings are inserted into the supports, and they are screwed into place.
The boom mounting axis will be made of two bolts screwed into the guides as shown in the photo. The diameter of the bolts is selected in accordance with the diameter of the inner race of the bearing.
The bolts are securely tightened, after which the two halves are screwed to each other.
Here is a visual illustration of how the arrow will be fixed in the supports:
The boom is installed in its place and fixed with nuts.
The next step is to install the tension spring. It is necessary in order to return the arrow to its original position after the jigsaw pulls it down. Thus, the reciprocating motion of the file will be performed. It must be adjusted so that it is not too soft (this will complicate the operation of the machine) and too hard (this can lead to overheating of the jigsaw motor).
How to fix it is shown in the photo:
Then, from a thin strip of metal (1 mm), it is necessary to make the attachment of the file to the arrow. They must rotate freely on the axis, because during operation the arrow changes the angle of inclination to the jigsaw, and if they are static, this can lead to breakage of the file.
Here's what the mounts should look like:
The boom supports are additionally reinforced with a long bolt, it can be seen in the photo:
Step 6. Electronic part.
Since access to the manual jigsaw is limited, it is necessary to bring the controls to outer part corps.
To adjust the speed of the jigsaw motor, the author used a phase power controller. Here is his wiring diagram.
This is our first idea that started it all. Structural solution, when flipped up, attached to the tabletop with subsequent fixation between the bearings - the idea is not new. It is presented in numerous variants on the Internet, but we wanted to go further and bring something new and unique to this solution. So our carpenter's workbench, which can be bought in our workshop, is presented below.
Our idea
Most of the designs described on the Internet are stationary solutions, that is, they are mounted on some kind of large not, while transportation or the ability to fold and remove the machine is not expected. There are many options when various hand-held power tools are installed on one worker, for example, a milling cutter, etc. In this case, the versatility of such complete solution, but mobility and transformation are also not provided for in this case.
There are solutions when the machine turns out to be not large and can be easily moved and removed. But it is not designed to be easily taken apart and folded into compact form. An example of such a machine is described in the article "".
Our idea is to make a set of such devices that would easily integrate with each other and complement each other, while expanding the functionality. In addition to integration at run time, our tools must be able to integrate at storage. For example, to be some constituent parts one case, which can easily find its place on a closet or mezzanine.
Thus, our developments will be most useful for those who have limited storage space and work space. When there is a spacious workshop or a large warm garage, then there is plenty of space (although it happens in different ways), but if you want to make things in an apartment, this option is simply necessary.
"Two in one"
In sketches and drawings, quite a lot of options for such devices and machines were immediately sketched out, but we decided to start with the most basic thing that a master might need in the first place, namely a workbench. It all starts with him, because it is the workbench that forms workplace which should be comfortable to work with. In parallel with the workbench, a machine was developed using, since the sawing operation is the most common and in demand. We talked about the choice and files for it in articles. This is how the case turned out, in which one half is a workbench, and the other sawing machine from . Both halves can be used together or separately.
We can offer drawings of our devices.
To get them you need:
— Pay a symbolic fee (200 rub.)
- Repost this article to the social network (there is a button under the article - click and you're done!)
- Write a review (comment) under this article.
In order to use our devices, you need a table that is as stable as possible. Fastening to the table is carried out using clamps. This mount was chosen specifically, since installation is quite quick and easy. The shape of the base is a square (the length of the edge is 500 mm). This is also obvious - for universality. Fastening is made to the edge of the table, and the design is made in such a way that it can be installed both on the left and right side of the table.
All elements are made of polished 15 mm thick.
Workbench
The main purpose of the workbench is to create a convenient workspace for work. Since many operations with workpieces involve their rigid fastening, we have developed a design that allows you to fasten workpieces different forms and sizes. The resulting design allows you to mount the workpiece in the following ways:
- Emphasis.
- Clamps. The tabletop has special slots into which clamps are installed, and the workpiece is fastened in seconds and is quite reliable.
- Vice. If you attach any board to the tabletop with clamps, then a vise (not included) can be easily installed on this board.
- Side clamp. In another way, it can be called a side vice, as it is a hard board, which is pressed with clamps, which are also installed in special slots.
If the thrust board is turned over, then its upper edge will be higher than the plane of the base of the workbench. This option is used when it is necessary to clamp a wide workpiece, one of the sides of which will rest against the installed stops.
Since the workbench is made of, you can not be afraid of the table on which it will be installed - if you do not overtighten the clamps, then nothing threatens even the varnished table. Because the space between working surface the workbench and the table itself are closed, then the chips and sawdust, getting inside through the holes of the stops, do not scatter around the room, but accumulate inside - an impromptu dust collector has turned out.
Sawing machine
As mentioned above, the fundamental design of such a home-made wall is not original, there are analogues. However, some features of our version should be noted:
- it is fixed not with two (as in many samples), but with three rollers (bearings), where one is transverse, against which it abuts. If only two bearings are used, then during prolonged sawing, firstly, it will overheat faster due to another friction plane (accordingly, the file may be deformed; it will fail faster; the quality of the saw deteriorates), and secondly, the metal plate, on which the file presses, sooner or later it will be rubbed and it will have to be changed.
- The fixation bracket can be installed in two positions - on the left or farthest side of the base from the master. This allows you to turn it over if necessary. In the position when the bracket is installed on the left side of the tabletop, it is possible to cut workpieces that are not limited in length, but not wider than 300 mm (the distance from the saw to the vertical part of the bracket).
Accordingly, the opposite is true, when when the bracket is installed on the edge of the tabletop farthest from the master, it is possible to saw workpieces that are not limited in width, but not longer than 300 mm (distance from to the vertical part of the bracket). The photo below shows the structural elements of the bracket.
- The bar with fixing rollers has height adjustment. This allows you to optimally select the fixing distance (from the level of the table top to the bottom edge of the plank). The lower the bar, the better the fixation. It is even very convenient to cut when the longitudinal roller (on which it rests) rolls over the workpiece. In any case, the length is important, which will allow you to set the bar with fixing rollers as high as possible. The dimensions and parameters of saw blades for electric jigsaws are described in detail in another article.
- Inside the base, an electrical part is implemented - a socket and a switch, the wire is laid in a cable channel. If you just plug the jigsaw wire into the outlet, then to turn it on you will need to look under the table, find the power button, turn on the jigsaw and lock the button in the pressed position. In our version with electrical part all these operations are done not under the table, where it is dark and uncomfortable, but at the time of installing the jigsaw. At the same time, turning the jigsaw on and off is done by simply pressing the switch, which is located in a convenient place.
- The base is rigidly fixed with two clamps to the desktop, preventing it from moving during operation.
Sharing
As it was said at the very beginning, our idea is to make some set of fixtures and machines that would allow us to use them together, while expanding the functionality, so our workbench and jigsaw can be used together.
Work on a workbench
When working on a workbench, a sawing machine can be installed nearby (left or right). This allows you to double the working surface of the workbench, which makes it possible to work with longer workpieces.
Work on the machine
As in the previous case, when adding a workbench with a machine, we get an extension of the desktop, which allows you to work with larger workpieces. But in this case, the position of the bracket is unambiguously determined - on the side farthest from the master.
Case assembly for transport and storage
If necessary, the workbench and the machine can be folded as two halves, and one case (suitcase) is obtained. It should be noted that all components fit inside, nothing superfluous will remain outside the case. Everything inside is securely fixed, so nothing dangles. Even fasteners have their own box inside, so as not to lose. In inner space a specially allocated place for the jigsaw itself, as well as clamps, so the kit is complete and complete.
Case has removable handle, which is installed in special slots and is simply removed during operation so as not to interfere.
The case is assembled and disassembled in seconds. Special hooks are installed on one side (they are removed in the working position), and two “suitcase” latches are installed on the front side.
Quality
Each product has a piece of the master, so we approach each of our work with a soul and try to make it conscientiously. We try to avoid backlash and unnecessary gaps, all components are carefully processed (sanded, for example), sharp edges are filled up to prevent chips, etc. Of course, you need to understand what is handmade and there is no 100% perfection - you can find fault with a strong desire, but we are improving our developments in the direction of technology and quality. Take at least a screwed-in futorka - it should not stick out or be recessed.
Conclusion
We hope that you will like our idea, and even if you do not purchase it from us, but simply the material presented will be interesting and useful to you, then we have not tried in vain. We will be grateful for your feedback and suggestions.
Hand power tools are very popular among both amateurs and professionals due to their obvious advantages, namely: comparative cheapness and availability; compactness; mobility. The reverse side of these unconditional advantages is the presence of such disadvantages as: relatively short time continuous work; low achievable accuracy; insufficient processing quality. Obviously, professional stationary solutions - machine tools and machines on massive beds - are deprived of these shortcomings. As a result, they are quite expensive, but the main thing is that they need to be placed somewhere. But what if there is no way to equip the workshop, but you want to improve the quality of work? This question is asked by many of those who are passionate about a serious hobby, and even just beginners. In our article we will talk about a solution that allows you to eliminate the known shortcomings of a manual jigsaw.
Benefits of a desktop jigsaw
Discussed above common shortcomings hand power tools fully inherent and jigsaw. Its main plus - mobility - implies exclusively manual movement and fixation of the tool. That is, in fact, it turns out that: It is very difficult to make an even, clear cut: the slightest extra movement - and a visible flaw appears in the cut line.
The guides included in the kit do not save because of their insufficient rigidity; The angle of inclination of the saw blade in relation to the workpiece is actually not controlled in any way. And even in the simplest case straight cut when the blade is perpendicular to the sole of the jigsaw, the result can be disappointing. There are at least two reasons: The saw blade is elastic and can bend during the cutting process, the free edge of the file is not limited by anything; On affordable (read - cheap) models, it is quite often perfect right angle between the file and the sole is difficult to reach due to the very design of the cheap stamped base.
It is interesting to note that, say, American craftsmen use a manual jigsaw quite rarely. For example, when you need to cut a hole in the kitchen worktop to install a sink. In other cases, they prefer to use stationary band saws of various sizes.
Such saws are completely devoid of some shortcomings (which are mentioned above), and are fully endowed with others: dimensions, weight and ... price. Summarizing the foregoing, we can confidently conclude that by fixing the jigsaw in some way on the desktop, some of its shortcomings can be overcome to a certain extent. And if you provide guide rollers for the free edge of the saw blade, you can get a completely even cut. And clean - correct selection the saw itself.
Therefore, a special table for a jigsaw will significantly improve the quality of work with this tool. Of course, you should not think that in this way you can get a full-fledged band saw "for inexpensive". But more on that later, now - briefly about what will be needed for manufacturing.
Materials and tools
Materials can be used from those that are at hand. I would just like to note that the work surface (“table top”) must be flat and fairly rigid, so when choosing a material, you need to keep in mind the following points: the existing piece will be fairly even.
Waterproof laminated (“formwork”) plywood with a thickness of 12 mm or more would be preferable. Speaking of chipboard particle boards), then in the general case, the thicker they are, the better - the more rigid. Ideally, a piece of high-quality laminated kitchen worktop or "postforming". Of the minuses - the lower reliability of attaching a tool to it, you need to take a more responsible approach to the choice of fasteners. Of the pluses, perhaps the main one is accessibility and simplicity: you can order the entire set of parts according to your size in any furniture workshop. It is better to take the thickness not the standard 16 mm, but more (for example, 22 mm).
The metal properties are almost perfect, but in everyday life it is quite difficult to find suitable sizes piece, polished and even. In addition, making the necessary holes in it is somewhat more laborious, then it is wise to use a drilling machine.
A set of necessary tools
will depend on the selected materials, but in the general case, an approximate list is something like this:
- pencil, tape measure or ruler, joiner's square - for marking;
- a square will also be useful at the stage final assembly and settings;
- screwdrivers and spanners according to the selected fastener;
- screwdriver or drill, drills for fasteners, self-tapping screws (screws).
In addition, you will need a rectangular metal bracket, two identical bearings and fasteners. Actually, the jigsaw itself will also come in handy.
Manufacturing steps
Regardless of the material chosen, it is necessary: to make a base and connect it to the work surface with holes for attaching the sole of the tool; to make a system of brackets for the upper guide file; assemble and adjust the table.
Base and work surface
The dimensions of the base are selected based on the dimensions of the existing jigsaw and are indicated approximately. The dimensions of the working surface are also approximate, on the side of the bracket mounting it is mounted flush with the base, on the other three sides a small protrusion is made for easy attachment of equipment (clamps, stops, etc.).
The arrangement of the bracket with guide bearings is clear from the figure. Sizes can be chosen individually, but something must be kept in mind.
Bearings that limit saw blade movement to the side must be selected based on the size of the saw blades that you plan to work with. The width of the bearing itself (indicated by the letter B in reference books) should not be greater than the width of the file, so as not to dull its teeth.
So, for example, if the blade width of metal saws (T123X, T118A) is usually more than 5 mm, then bearings with a B dimension of 4–5 mm will be suitable, for example:
At the same time, models with the letters ZZ, 2RS should be preferred as the most protected from dust, which will definitely be during the cutting process. Saw blades for wood, on the contrary, can be narrow (T244D about 3.5 mm) and very narrow (T119BO about 3 mm, which can be used in our case).
As an option - bearing 100093 (aka 693, 3 x 8 x 3 mm). Fasteners are selected for the selected bearing: M3 or M4 screws, nuts (better "self-locking" with a nylon insert that prevents spontaneous unscrewing). The distance between the axes of the bearings is also calculated based on the size of the files, the thickness of the blade can be in the range from 0.9 to 1.7 mm. For example, T244D blade thickness is 1.25 mm, and T123X, T118A is 1 mm thick. Rounding up is best.
Assembly and adjustment
This method of fastening will make it possible to adjust both the height of the guide bearings according to the length of the saw, and (using a square) the perpendicularity of the saw itself relative to the desktop.
As mentioned above, you should not flatter yourself - although this is no longer just a jigsaw, it is still not a band saw. Here are some tips: band saw traffic saw blade occurs only in one direction - from top to bottom, due to which the workpiece is pressed against the table by cutting forces. On the homemade table it is possible to undermine the workpiece upwards, since the jigsaw pendulum also makes a return movement. Therefore, the workpiece must be well pressed against the working surface of the table, and the most important thing is to feed (move) the workpiece as slowly as possible.
Note! More RPM and less pitch is much better than vice versa.
When working with an electric jigsaw (with or without a table), it is useful to remember that the jigsaw saw blade stroke is usually about 15–20 mm, you need to read this value for your tool in the instructions or determine it yourself. Material thicker than this value should only be sawn with teeth set. Otherwise, the chips will not be completely removed, which is fraught with overheating and jamming of the blade.
Between the working surface of the table and the sole of the jigsaw, you can lay a sheet of dense rubber, after making an incision for the file. Assemble the table and let the canvas run a little idle so that the canvas “gets used” to the slot in the rubber. This will protect the moving parts of the inverted jigsaw from a large number sawdust, for which it is not designed, because in the normal mode, the designers of the tool clearly did not count on such a number of them.
Safety goggles are required. And it is also necessary to organize the inclusion of the device through the pedal or provide another way to instantly turn off the instrument. But that is a topic for another article. Do not be afraid to think creatively and improve your tools, because any idea is just a starting point for creativity, and universal solutions does not exist.
For more information on making a table for an electric jigsaw, see the video:
