Astilba is a unique flower with lush foliage and a large number of inflorescences. It has about 40 species and even more varieties. It is distinguished by unique inflorescences of different colors, often pink. In addition to aesthetic qualities, it has high frost resistance, shade tolerance and resistance to moisture. It blooms throughout the summer period until autumn (usually from late June to September), filling the garden and complementing it.

General rules for caring for astilba in the open field

In order for the plant to grow and please for a long time, it is necessary to follow the elementary rules of care:

1. It is necessary to choose the optimal place for landing. Well suited loose soils rich in humus. If natural humus is not enough, manure is added to the ground.
2. The optimal time for planting a plant is spring.
3. In order to ensure the best development and growth of the flower, a competent supply of moisture is necessary.
4. For good growth and better flowering, it is advisable to fertilize the soil around the astilbe several times per season. When choosing fertilizer for astilba, you need to focus on the growing season.
5. Regular loosening of the soil and weeding will supply the flower with oxygen.

By performing all the prescribed actions, the gardener will be able to grow a beautiful flower.

General rules of care

Why fertilize plants

First of all, astilba fertilizer is aimed at preserving its unique beauty by maintaining abundant flowering.

In addition, well-chosen fertilizers will fill the soil with all the necessary nutrients, which, getting into the plant, will ensure its growth and development, improve both aesthetic and functional characteristics.

The general rules for fertilizing astilba look like this:

• The use of fertilizers begins in the second year after planting.
• For the first time it is better to feed astilba in April.
• The second time the astilbe is fed at the time of ripening of the inflorescences - as a rule, this is June.
• The third time - at the end of flowering - in the fall.

Important! Do not forget that a flower that receives all the necessary substances from the earth has better immunity. Accordingly, competent feeding is at the same time the prevention of diseases.

How to feed astilba after flowering

Immediately after the end of the flowering process, phosphorus-potassium composition, as well as nitrogen, are introduced into the soil. Do this, as a rule, before the first frost. The purpose of this top dressing is to saturate the soil with minerals that are useful for the flower. Such a fertilizer will help preserve the roots during the cold season, as well as ensure the growth and development of leaves for next year.

How to feed astilba in the summer? During this period, she needs minerals that can help cope with flowering and the best option is bait. It is necessary to use potassium and phosphorus types of fertilizers.

Top dressing of astilba in the summer is aimed precisely at abundant flowering, since buds and inflorescences form in the early summer months. As already mentioned, potassium-based fertilizers improve the formation of flowers and favorably affect the flowering process. Means are introduced into the soil or solutions are used for irrigation and spraying. Strict adherence to the concentration of substances and the regularity of procedures will ensure healthy plant growth.

How to feed astilba after flowering

Types of dressings and fertilizers

There are the following main types of fertilizers:

1. Phosphorus based. Aimed at maintaining the root system.
2. Potassium based. Promote abundant flowering due to the accelerated formation of buds and inflorescences.
3. Nitrogen based. They affect both the development of parts above the ground - leaves and buds, and help in maintaining the root system.

In order to feed the plant, you can equally use organic and mineral fertilizers.

Fertilizers applied to the soil to improve its properties are conventionally divided into two groups:

1. Basic. Add, as a rule, in autumn and spring, preferably early. They are mineral components based on the same nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus.
2. Auxiliary. They are used for spraying, but cannot replace a full-fledged fertilizer and will not cope with serious plant diseases.

Bait is available in liquid and solid forms.

Note! The nutrients in both forms are in equal concentration, so the choice is purely a matter of preference.

Below are tips, from planting to nurturing, to help keep the plant alive.

1. Experienced flower growers advise using bionics or a mixture of bone meal and humus when planting.
2. If the soil is not well hydrated and does not cope well with water retention, hydrogel capsules will save.
3. It is best to finish planting by sprinkling the surface with crushed sawdust.
4. It is advisable to add humus to the soil three times a year.
5. Be sure to feed every season in accordance with the expected result: strengthening the root system, abundant flowering, etc.

With properly organized care, astilba will become an adornment of any garden and will warm the soul of the gardener all summer. Knowing which fertilizers will provide abundant flowering, every beauty lover will be able to grow amazingly beautiful flowers on his site.

Astilbe is one of the most popular summer garden plants. Its prevalence is explained by lush long flowering and resistance to high soil moisture. Large sprawling bushes always look very impressive.

Astilbe is a herbaceous plant native to East Asian countries and North America. The genus contains approximately 40 species, which are subdivided into at least 400 varieties.

Plant height is 15-200 cm depending on the variety. The inflorescences are quite long: from 10 to 60 cm. Flowers can have different shades: white, purple, pink and red. Flowering is observed from June to August.

In fact, this is a rhizomatous plant, in which the ground part dies off at the beginning of winter. Astilbe leaves are simple, long-petiolate or serrated reddish or dark green. The rhizome is dense or loose. Every year, several buds appear on the plant, and its lower part dies off. Astilbe is growing fast. So, in a year its height increases by 4 cm, so with the onset of winter it is necessary to add a little soil.

Landing

Growing astilba does not cause any trouble. Plants are planted from May to June in the northern part of the site. It must be remembered that bushes don't need a lot of light. A diffused shadow is best. Thanks to the creation of such conditions, it will be possible to achieve stable long-term flowering, although the Gloria variety and others with white flowers feel good in the sun. Of course, in this case, flowering will be shorter, but much more intense. Early and late varieties grow well in sun and shade. The ideal option for all varieties is the proximity of water, such as a pool or fountain.

Almost any soil is suitable for astilba. To bloom for a long time, it is better to give preference to a place with a high level of groundwater, since long drought bushes do not tolerate. The top layer of soil should contain a lot of phosphorus and potassium. Loamy soil with an acidity of 5.5-6.5 is also suitable.

Many gardeners choose astilba for their plots. Growing a plant requires preliminary preparation. So, before planting, it is important to dig up the site, remove weeds and rhizomes from other plants. Next, the soil is fertilized with compost, rotted peat or rotted manure. Approximately 2 buckets of fertilizer will be required per 1 m². Then it is necessary to dig holes 20 cm deep at a distance of 30 cm. Pour 1 tablespoon of mineral fertilizer and 0.5 cups of ash into each. Here it is necessary to carefully place the root of the plant. All plants should mulch with peat or humus. A layer of 3-5 cm will be enough. Thanks to mulching, it will be possible to avoid overheating and maintain the friability and moisture of the soil.

reproduction

Specialists highlight 3 ways to propagate a plant:

• The division of the bush. This is the most familiar and common way. So, you need to carefully dig up the bush and remove all the leaves. Then cutting into several divisions is performed, each of which should have 3-5 buds. The dead rhizome must be removed. All plants are planted in the ground. At the same time, there should be a distance of 30 cm between them. Division is recommended in early spring. Thanks to this early reproduction, the first flowers will appear in the fall.
• Reproduction by the kidneys. This is the fastest way. With the beginning of spring, when the shoots begin to grow, they should be carefully cut along with part of the rhizome. The sections themselves are sprinkled with coal powder or ash. The shoots are placed in a container with peat and gravel in a ratio of 3: 1, and then covered with a film. Astilba can be planted in the fall or wait until next spring.
• Reproduction by seeds. This method is not suitable for the propagation of varietal plants, since they are unable to maintain the traits of the variety. However, you can grow astilba by purchasing quality seeds. They are sown in moist soil, without deepening into the ground. To accelerate growth, stratification is preliminarily carried out. So, the seeds are removed to a cold place where the temperature does not exceed + 4º C, and after 20 days the container with planting material is transferred to a warm, lit room, where the temperature is maintained at 18-20º C. In the spring, the plant can be planted in open ground in a darkened area.

Care

Astilba care is quite simple. The plant loves water, so it is very regular abundant watering is important. Even if the soil is slightly dry, this can adversely affect the decorative properties. For example, the inflorescences will become smaller, and the leaves will begin to wither.

It must be remembered that astilba is adapted to severe frosts, but spring temperature changes can be fatal. Therefore, the bushes need to be covered with any natural material in several layers, and between individual plants it is worth mulching the soil using pine needles.

To preserve the beauty of the astilbe, fertilizer should be applied. Peat or compost is suitable for dry soil, and complex additives for wet soil. Immediately after flowering, you need to make a phosphorus-potassium composition. Fertilizing with nitrogen is carried out after frost. May-June is ideal. It is best to give preference to urea with the addition of potassium or ammonium nitrate. Approximately 2 tablespoons of fertilizer will be required for 10 liters of water. Under the bush you need to pour about 0.5 liters of the finished solution. Potassium chloride is undesirable to make.

Some gardeners prefer to use an infusion of weeds, namely dandelions. Other specialists choose AVA fertilizer. It is applied three times a year, 1 teaspoon around the roots. It must be remembered that nitrogen is not present in this fertilizer, therefore, at the beginning of spring, the soil must be watered with Gumi solution or buoy fertilizer.

One bush lives about 5 years. After that, the plant needs a transplant. If desired, do not dig out the bush, but separate part of it, process the cut, and then fill the vacant space with soil.

Combination with plants

Astilba looks very good in mixed flower beds located in a darkened area. Hosts are considered the best neighbors. In sunny areas, bushes are often combined with daylilies. If you choose varieties with different flowering periods, then you can create a flower garden which will please the eye for a very long time.

Astilba goes well with flowers that love shade. For example, these are bergenia, hellebore and podophyllum. You can also plant lilies of the valley, irises, Goryanka, late tulips in the neighborhood.

Main varieties

The number of hybrid varieties of astilba has about 200 copies. The most popular include:

• Astilba rentsa. Powerful bushes reach a height of 100 cm. They have a pyramidal shape, dark green leaves and white, red, pink or lilac inflorescences. Flowering is observed during the month: from July to August.
• astilbe chinensis. The height of the bush reaches 1 m. A distinctive feature is the presence of large leaves at the root. The inflorescences are quite dense, and small flowers have a pronounced lilac hue. There are also white and pink flowers.
• Astilbe japonica. These are low plants with compact openwork leaves. Inflorescences are white or pink. They bloom quite early. Moreover, even after flowering, such a bush will decorate the site.
• Astilba simplefolia. Low plants are distinguished by their spectacular flowers. It must be remembered that they do not tolerate high temperatures and dry air.

Almost all varieties of astilba are not afraid of pests and diseases. So, in the course of numerous studies, not a single insect or disease was found that would significantly damage the plant. Thanks to this, the care and cultivation of the bush is greatly simplified.

Astilbe is easy to care for, but it has its own whims. This plant is very water loving. When she is constantly thirsty, she will not be happy and healthy, especially in the sun. Without moisture, the stems and tips of the leaves begin to dry. The best place for the development of astilbe is partial shade, near water bodies, in places of high humidity. There, astilbe feels great, grows and develops wonderfully. But the rhizome grows every year and comes out of the ground up 3-5 cm. They struggle with this pouring of soil to the rhizome or dividing and transplanting the plant.

Although the astilba has adapted to the frosts of Russia, it is afraid of spring icing. Since it germinates very early in the spring, every year its leaves are subjected to frostbite. You can come to terms with this. After this storm, the leaves will grow back, although flowering may come later and be less lush. And you can cover the bushes in several layers with non-woven material. If possible, for the winter, astilbe planting should be insulated with such material as spruce branches.

Location in the garden

Astilba loves semi-shady, moist places, develops well in open areas, if constantly moistened and mulched with peat or leaf humus, it does not grow well in dry areas. In cold winters without snow, old bushes freeze and die. Without dividing and transplanting, they can be placed in one place for no more than 4-5 years, or even 3 years with a large growth. Astilbe is propagated by dividing bushes that have one or more faded stems that have replacement buds at the base and a segment of the root. The pieces of roots that remain after cutting are also suitable for propagation: new shoots will develop from their dormant buds. The old root hardens and is divided with great difficulty. Separation can be carried out in the spring or at the end of August. It can also be propagated by seeds. They are sown in February or March in some room, the ground is not covered, the soil is moistened with a spray gun; after 2-3 weeks, small shoots will appear.
The main care for astilba is as follows: weeding, loosening, abundant watering, which does not allow the top layer of the earth to dry out, as young roots develop in it, it is also necessary to remove faded inflorescences.

Watering

The plant is very moisture-loving. To get long and lush inflorescences, astilba should be watered abundantly in August-September, and for the splendor of inflorescences, you need to mulch the soil in May.
Astilbe does not tolerate drought very well. The soil without nutrients, the open sun, along with the lack of watering, will surely destroy the plant. To avoid this, it is necessary to water the astilba 2 times a day - in the morning and in the evening.
In addition to watering, the plant needs fertile soil, dense planting and mulching. Astilbe does not tolerate overheating of the upper part of the roots, mulching in this case reduces temperature and moisture loss, and helps maintain soil looseness.

Fertilizers and top dressings

This plant needs a sufficient amount of phosphorus and potassium in the soil.
In the same place, astilba can be grown for 5-6 years, but with proper care, the plant can grow without a transplant in one area for up to 20 years, although the inflorescences will still be smaller. To preserve the decorative appearance of plants, annual top dressing is needed - in the spring, after regrowth, fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogen are recommended, and then after flowering or in the autumn period, fertilizers with potassium and phosphorus are needed - 20-25 g of active ingredient per plant. After feeding, carefully loosen the soil and then mulch.

astilba flower serves as a wonderful decoration for parks and gardens, it is placed in separate groups on the tops of trees and shrubs, on borders, mixborders, lawns. Used as a cut material for bouquets and flower arrangements.

For the purpose of distillation, astilbe roots are harvested from autumn and stored in pots or prikope in a cold, non-freezing place until early December, then transferred to a cool place (10-12 C), then to a greenhouse, watered abundantly and often, sprinkled with warm water, I also use warm baths (25 C).

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Astilba is the most winter-hardy and luxuriant shade-tolerant perennial crop. This airy and openwork queen of shadows with lush airy panicles of inflorescences does not impose special requirements either on the place of cultivation or on the composition of the soil and pleases with amazing flowering even with minimal care, which actually comes down to maintaining soil moisture that is so necessary for astilba.

Watering

Watering is the only labor-intensive part of growing these plants. Astilbes are extremely moisture-loving crops, which in nature prefer the monsoon climate and can grow even on marshy soils. But they categorically do not tolerate drought, if we are talking about long periods. Drought is especially dangerous for astilbe, combined with poor soil and very bright lighting.

If astilbes do not grow on shaded, but on sunny sites, they need to provide abundant watering twice a day in the absence of natural precipitation.

In the shade, astilbes critically need watering only during long dry periods, but if you have such an opportunity, then it is better for plants to provide weekly maintenance soil moisture at least during the release of peduncles and flowering.

pruning

Astilbe pruning is carried out in several stages. Immediately after flowering, it is necessary to remove all wilted flower stalks, preventing them from weakening the plants. Full pruning of above-ground parts is carried out later in the fall, before mulching for the winter, although some gardeners recommend leaving dry foliage and stems for additional retention of snow cover, which is the best protection for the plant's rhizomes.

If the aerial parts of the astilba are not cut in the fall, then a full pruning is carried out in the spring, before the young shoots start to grow.

top dressing

The unique decorativeness of astilbe is achievable only by maintaining stable soil fertility, which can be ensured by regular fertilization. Astilba is fed three times a season - immediately after regrowth, at the end of flowering and in the fall, while for the first feeding it is better to use nitrogen fertilizers, and for the last two - potassium-phosphorus.

For astilbes that grow in high-quality fertile soil rich in humus, the number of top dressings after flowering can be reduced to one.

Immediately after fertilizing with watering, the soil around the plants must be loosened, trying not to touch the rhizome and renew the mulch layer.

Diseases and pests

Astilba is one of those hardy garden perennials that, for all their decorativeness, are resistant to diseases and pests.

Very rarely, with inattentive care or improper selection of soils, astilbes can be affected by gall and strawberry nematodes, slobbering pennitsa. You need to deal with them manually, removing damaged leaves and stems or destroying diseased roots and plants.

Soil mulching

An obligatory component of astilbe care is soil mulching, which not only helps to reduce moisture evaporation and, accordingly, reduce watering, but also protects the upper part of the rhizome from overheating, which is not very fond of astilbes. Thanks to the mulch, soil looseness is also preserved, weeds are suppressed and optimal conditions are created for subsequent wintering, because a layer of protective materials keeps the renewal buds located high enough from freezing.

Plants should be mulched immediately after planting, covering with an equally even layer (about 5 cm thick) the area on which astilbes are planted. For mulching, you can use peat, mature compost, or any other available plant material.

The mulch layer needs to be renewed during the weeding of the plants, at least several times during the season. Completely replace with a new one in late autumn and early spring.

Separation of bushes

Astilbes can grow in one place for about 15-20 years, but the decorative effect of the bushes is gradually decreasing, so every four or five years the astilbe bushes are rejuvenated by division. If bushes grow too fast on fertile soil, separation should be carried out after three, in extreme cases after four years. Specific dates can be determined by reducing the duration and decorativeness of flowering, shrinking inflorescences and the location of young roots near the surface of the soil.

In the spring, old astilbes are dug up and divided into two or three parts, leaving at least one bud in each.

How to feed astilba in the spring before flowering. Planting astilba in the spring in the ground and caring for flowers in the garden

How to feed astilba in the spring before flowering. Planting astilba in the spring in the ground and caring for flowers in the garden

astilba- a herbaceous perennial that in nature grows mainly in mountainous regions with a monsoon climate, at an altitude of up to 4800 m. The plant is characterized by endurance and rather high winter hardiness, therefore, in most climatic zones it normally tolerates a cold period and does not require careful winter preparation.

Like most garden plants, astilba needs especially careful care in the year of planting. To make the bush healthy and strong, and endure the coming winter well, you should not let it bloom. If you remove the flower stalks, all the forces of the plant will go to rooting and the formation of buds on the rhizome. In addition, until the astilba has grown stronger, the soil around it needs to be weeded. Over time, the bush will grow, crowd out the weeds, and the need for weeding will disappear.

It is important to know that new buds are formed in the upper part of the rhizome, and the annual vertical growth is 3 - 5 cm. Therefore, when growing astilba, it is recommended to use pre-winter mulching, which will help protect young buds, creating favorable conditions for wintering. In autumn, the bushes are sprinkled with crushed bark, well-decomposed compost or peat. If this is not done, the upper part of the rhizome with renewal buds is exposed, and young adventitious roots may freeze slightly during the cold period. Such a plant after wintering remains weakened, its inflorescences become smaller, the duration and abundance of flowering decreases, as well as the decorativeness of the leaves.

In the conditions of the middle lane astilba does not need winter shelter. Among shade-tolerant perennials, it occupies one of the leading places in terms of cold resistance. Healthy adult plants tolerate wintering quite well, so mulching is sufficient for them. The most dangerous are late spring frosts, which can damage the upper part of the rhizome. But, if during the growing season, astilbes grew in favorable conditions, in the spring, renewing from dormant buds, they practically do not lose their decorative effect.

Old specimens become less resistant to negative weather factors. In the fourth or fifth year after planting, the viability of astilbe decreases. The vertically growing rhizome is gradually exposed, and even hilling with mulching will not be able to protect it from damage by snowless frosts. If in the fall it was not possible to rejuvenate old specimens, they will have to be insulated with a light shelter. To do this, you can choose one of the traditional methods used for clematis, hydrangeas and other plants that require shelter. In autumn, after trimming the bush, a light metal or wooden frame is installed above it. The space inside the frame is filled with leaves, and spanbond or lutrasil is stretched on top of it. To protect against moisture, the entire structure is covered with a plastic film, which is pressed to the ground with bricks. Any other shelter option is also suitable, providing protection from frost and preventing water from entering the bushes, which often causes plant death during the cold period.

The main factor necessary for the normal development of astilbe is timely and sufficient moisture. When growing it, regular watering is the most important agricultural technique. Therefore, plants that have survived a dry and hot summer will go into the winter weakened. They are recommended to be insulated, especially in those regions that are characterized by frosts without snow or frequent alternation of frosts and thaws.

For healthy astilba specimens preparation for winter consists of a few simple steps. The aerial part of the plant dies off during the cold season, therefore, with the onset of autumn frosts, astilbes are cut to the level of the soil. The base of the bush is spudded to a height of 3-4 cm so that young buds do not become exposed. Then the rhizome is mulched with peat or humus. This is enough for a successful wintering, since all types and varieties of astilbe are winter-hardy and do not require more thorough protection.

As an additional nutrition in the autumn, it is recommended to use potash and phosphorus top dressings, which increase the frost resistance of plants. Application rate - 20 - 25 grams of active ingredient per bush. astilba prefers fertile soils rich in humus. Therefore, for its abundant flowering next year, as well as for a higher decorative effect of the leaves, organic fertilizer can be applied. It decomposes slowly, turning into accessible forms that the plant will begin to use with the onset of the growing season.

astilba appreciated by gardeners for unpretentiousness and ease of care. When preparing Astilba for the cold period, the main rule should be remembered: the stronger the plant goes into winter, the better it will endure.

In every garden there are corners where the sun rarely looks, and the earth is not very good there. What to plant in these inconveniences? Pay attention to astilba: unpretentious, decorative at any time, does not spread around the garden, is content with little care.

Not a plant, but a reward. And as soon as it blooms - it feels like clouds have fallen into the garden - the astilbe inflorescences are so airy, elegant and fragrant!

It is no coincidence that it is called the best flower of shady gardens. She will bring a highlight of color to a rocky flower bed, shade the strict greenery of conifers, organically and delicately fit into the plantings of the host.

The most problematic period in the life of any plant is winter. How to prepare an oriental beauty for Russian frosts, so that she will delight with her beauty for more than one season, we will describe in detail in this article.

This perennial flower is very common in Japan, East Asia and North America. Its habitat is along rivers and on the banks of reservoirs, in shaded places with high humidity.

Despite the tropical origin, astilba tolerates low temperatures well due to the fact that with the onset of winter, its ground part dies off, and frosts down to -30 degrees are not afraid of a powerful rhizome that goes deep into the soil.

The most vulnerable part of this unpretentious flower is the upper part of the rhizome, where growth points appear annually. The annual growth is about 5 cm, while the lower part gradually dies off.

As a result, the plant seems to be squeezed out of the ground, the young growth becomes defenseless against low temperatures, and nutrition is reduced due to a decrease in the area of ​​the root system.

Interesting! Cut astilbe inflorescences do not live very long in a bouquet, although modern wedding fashion actively recommends the use of these flowers in the bouquet of the bride and her bridesmaids.

However, if you cut off flower stalks with a small section of rhizome, the bouquet will not lose its freshness for several days!

astilbe care

It is extremely important for the agricultural technology of this beautiful perennial flower to monitor the condition of the bush, regularly spudding it with fertile soil and removing the dead part of the rhizome. Regular watering is required throughout the growing season: in summer, in hot weather, up to 2 times a day.

You can reduce the amount of watering with the help of mulching, thus reducing evaporation from the surface of the root circle.

Particular attention should be paid to adults, older than 5 years, plants. At this age, the beauty of astilbe flowers fades away: the inflorescences become smaller, paler, the number of flower shoots decreases significantly.

If you leave the plant without much attention, you can get an already non-flowering astilbe, although even in this form it is very beautiful due to the carved leaves. Rejuvenation of the bush will restore its beauty and youth.

For this:

• dig up an old bush;
• remove dead lower roots;
• divide the bush so that in each division there are at least 3-4 buds;
• plant in a new place, deepening by 4-5 cm.

The soil for planting should be slightly acidic or neutral, without close approaches to groundwater. This operation is optimally combined with the preparation of astilba for the winter period.

Note! It is most profitable to plant low-growing varieties, their flowering is longer - in some dwarf varieties up to 40 days!

How to prepare astilba for winter

Oddly enough, but the preparation begins from the moment the flowering stops. Even faded astilba panicles look very decorative, so many gardeners leave them until winter: they decorate the garden even under snow.

However, it must be remembered that the inflorescences contain seeds, and the plant spends a lot of energy on their maturation, which would be useful to it in preparation for winter. Therefore, for lush flowering next year, you need to sacrifice faded panicles. They are cut off as soon as the inflorescences change color to brown.

Depending on the variety of astilba, this is the end of July-August. Cut inflorescences look great in dry bouquets, and treated with hairspray (so that small petals do not fall off) or acrylic paints, you can create amazing compositions.

The second important point in preparing astilba for winter is top dressing. At this time, the flower needs an increased dose of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. Complex fertilizer, for example, Agrofoska, is applied at the rate of 30-40 grams for each bush.

If potash fertilizer is used separately, then potassium sulfate or potassium salt should be preferred. Potassium chloride is not well tolerated by all types of astilba. A good result is the pollination of the trunk circle with wood ash, 1-1.5 cups of sifted ash under a bush.

Among phosphate fertilizers, superphosphate and phosphate rock are especially good for astilba. After fertilizing, the plant is watered abundantly.

The leaves are not removed during this period, food passes through them to the roots, helping to accumulate nutrients for a long winter. In addition, the bush at this time is very decorative: with a regular rounded shape with carved graceful leaves, it will decorate the most sophisticated flower bed.

Closer to September, the leaves begin to fade, change color from green to reddish-brown.

This is a signal for the second stage of preparing the astilba for winter. At this time, the bush can be rejuvenated: there is still enough time for the transplanted bushes to take root, at the same time, the active growth of green mass is already slowing down, the plant pays all attention to the root system.

With the onset of the first frosts, all the leaves and shoots of astilba are cut at the root, level with the ground.

Important! You can not leave "stumps" - pests can overwinter there. In addition, in the spring, these semi-cut bushes look ugly.

Cropped bushes spud, trying to close the upper middle part of the root - it is there that the buds of the next year are formed. It is best to spud with rotted manure or ripe humus. From above, it is desirable to cover with breathable mulch - fallen leaves, straw, bark trimmings. This layer must be at least 10 cm.

Do I need to cover astilba for the winter

Modern hybrids can withstand temperatures down to -30 degrees. However, additional astilbe shelter is necessary if:

• bush at the age of 1 year;
• winters in the place of growth of astilba are snowless;
• winter temperatures fluctuate from plus to minus, and with a large amplitude in a short time.

How to build a winter shelter for astilba

Young plants can be additionally covered with spruce branches on top. The main thing is that this shelter is breathable, to prevent the bush from damping out during possible thaws. In the case of severe snowless winters, additional shelter is necessary.

To do this, along the perimeter of a hilled and mulched bush, a low rim of bricks, boards or any available material is built. From above they cover with non-woven material (lutrasil, spunbond) and fill it under the side.

As a rule, under this shelter, astilba withstands any vagaries of winter weather.

Let's note the main thing

• When preparing astilba for winter, it is necessary to perform 4 mandatory operations:

1. pruning peduncles immediately after flowering;
2. top dressing with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer;
3. removal of leaves and shoots at ground level after the first frost;
4. hilling with fertile soil, rotted manure, ripened humus, to create a mound above the center of the bush, where the next year's buds are.

• In the case of severe snowless winters, it is necessary to build an additional shelter from any breathable material over the astilbe hilled bush.

Beautiful Astilba. Care, top dressing, wintering, types, varieties:

An amazing plant with incredibly bright flowers is slowly starting to win its place in the backyards of our country. The name of this perennial is astilba. One of the main advantages of this truly bewitching plant is a huge variety of varieties. During the entire flowering period, the plant retains its decorative effect, thanks to the amazing leaves. In wildlife, astilba can be found in East Asia and North America. In total, 30 plant species are known, 10 of which are successfully cultivated in our gardens.

Of the ten species, breeders were able to grow a large number of varieties. Conventionally, all of them can be divided into dwarf (up to thirty centimeters high), undersized (from thirty to sixty centimeters), medium tall (from sixty to ninety centimeters) and tall (from ninety centimeters to one and a half meters). In nature, astilba prefers to grow along the banks of rivers and on forest edges. One of the main advantages of astilba is its exceptional hardiness and increased frost resistance, so the plant survives even the most severe winters. But still, flowers must be prepared for the onset of the cold season.

Autumn care. Preparing for winter

pruning

Depending on the variety, astilbe has different flowering periods. Some plants bloom already in June, others - not earlier than mid-summer, and the rest, late-flowering - at the end of August. With the onset of autumn cold weather, the plant stops blooming, but many gardeners are in no hurry to cut it. For even a faded plant surprisingly beautifully and elegantly complements country plantings with its albeit semi-dry flower stalks until late autumn.

It is important! Let's move on to removing the aerial part of the plant. You can produce it with the help of a well-known country tool - pruner. In order not to harm the plant and not infect it with fungal and other diseases, garden shears should be disinfected beforehand. This can be done by dipping the tool for twenty to thirty minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate. It will be great if the gardener can handle the tool when moving from bush to bush. So it will reduce the risk of transferring fungal diseases from plant to plant.

How to properly trim? First, the entire aerial part of the plant should be completely removed. Secondly, it is necessary to ensure that young kidneys are not exposed. It is important to know that new astilba buds are located at the top of the rhizome. Therefore, after pruning, the bushes should be carefully spudded, as well as mulching. Bushes should be planted to a height of three to four centimeters.

Mulching

In order to protect the root system of the plant, as well as young buds, it is necessary to cover the surface of the soil around the astilbe with mulch. Dry sawdust, peat or rotted manure are perfect as an above-ground shelter. Sometimes gardeners use shredded tree bark as mulch. Mulching allows you to protect both young buds and adventitious roots.

Fertilizer

In preparation for the winter cold, astilba should be fertilized. This will allow the plant to safely survive the winter and not lose its decorative effect. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are excellent. It will be enough to add no more than twenty grams of top dressing for each bush.

In addition to potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, it is desirable to add humus to the soil. Astilba prefers to grow in nutrient rich soils. Therefore, it will be great if the summer resident, before the first frosts come, enrich the earth with organic matter. You should not worry that the plant will grow, because the rotted manure will decompose slowly, and only by the onset of the spring thaw can it be used by the plant as an additional source of energy.

Shelter

Astilba is a surprisingly cold-resistant plant, so if a summer resident grows it in the middle lane, then you don’t have to worry about shelter. It will be enough just to mulch the plantings well. However, the situation is different if we are talking about four or five year old plants. Weakened, with a gradually growing bare rhizome, astilbes run the risk of not surviving the cold. Some gardeners choose classic shelter options to protect them: spruce branches, dry leaves, sawdust, hay. The main thing is to use natural materials so as not to create a greenhouse effect for plants. It is very important to protect the bushes from the ingress of excess water, which can subsequently cause the death of the perennial.

In the composition of most flower beds located in the shade, there is sure to be astilbe. Perennial has long gained popularity as an unpretentious plant. Today we will reveal the topic of planting astilba and caring for it in the open field, as beginners and experienced gardeners are interested in the basics of agricultural technology and the features of growing a flower.

Unpretentious culture for a shady flower garden loves a cool climate

Plant characteristics

Consumer qualities

Summer residents would probably not pay attention to the panicles of wild astilba. Tiny buds, inconspicuous colors, resemble weeds, which are abundant around. However, the breeders managed to accomplish the incredible - to bring out such bright astilba varieties that simply cannot go unnoticed.

Demanded qualities of culture:

• decorative openwork leaves;
• catchy strong inflorescences;
• abundant and long flowering;
• winter hardiness;
• shade and moisture-loving.

This flower is widely grown in central Russia. Moreover, in the south, astilbe often burns and dries, and tamed to the specific climate of Western and Eastern Siberia, it is successfully cultivated in the territories of the Altai Territory, the Urals, as well as in the Far East (in Primorsky, Khabarovsk Territories).

Conclusion: astilba is not a culture for hot regions.

Companions in the flower garden

Gardeners plant astilba along with coniferous and decorative deciduous shrubs, create original sites around the perimeter of reservoirs, combining varieties adjacent in color and height.

Low-growing perennials successfully manifest themselves as a pot culture, and dwarf astilbes take root perfectly in rocky areas of rockeries or rock gardens.

Undersized A. Arendsa "Fanal" opens the flowering season

Astilba is comfortable in the circle of the following, tolerant of the lack of sunlight, plants:

• hydrangeas;
• hosts;
• Siberian iris;
• fern;
• badana.

It is noteworthy that even the absence of astilbe flowers will not make such a flower bed boring. The leaves of the "neighbors" are distinguished by a unique decorative shape and different colors. At the same time, for all plants to live, it is enough to see the sun only at sunrise or closer to sunset. Moisture, diffused shade, and minimal care are all that is needed for healthy growth and prosperity of astilba.

The typical rock garden company

Fundamentals of reproduction and agricultural technology

Growing a crop from seeds at home

Astilbe is propagated vegetatively and by seeds. Novice flower growers prefer the first method. The second often raises a series of intractable questions such as "how to collect and germinate tiny seeds", "when to sow seedlings", etc.

Many experimenters are stopped by the low percentage of astilba germination (which is often indicated on the packaging label), as well as possible problems when transplanting seedlings into open ground. Agree, it is much easier to buy ready-made roots with buds in the nursery and not bother yourself with unnecessary troubles to create a greenhouse, carry out stratification and picking of young plants, followed by “moving” the astilba to the flower bed.

However, those who like to take risks often receive well-deserved rewards. It is the seed method of growing astilba that allows you to become an amateur breeder, experiment and get an unpredictable result - new varieties.

On a note! The polymorphic properties of astilba lead to natural consequences - seedlings partially retain the characteristics of the mother plant. Be prepared for the fact that by propagating with seeds a white undersized flower, you will end up with a tall perennial with pink panicles.

Astilbe seeds for seedlings are sown in early March. A mixture of peat and sand (in parts 3: 1) is placed in a wide container 15 cm high. A handful of snow is scattered on top, on which small seeds are distributed. Thus, conditions are artificially created for the stratification of seeds and increasing their germination. Together with melting snow, astilbe penetrates the soil.

1 g of perennial inflorescence contains about 20 thousand tiny seeds, invisible to the naked eye

Then the pot is placed in a transparent bag and sent to the refrigerator for 15-20 days. After the specified period, the "greenhouse" is taken out, taken out to a warm (+18 degrees), well-lit place, for example, to the balcony. Astilba shoots should appear within 3-4 weeks. The soil must not be allowed to dry; a pulverizer is used to moisten it.

Perennial seedlings grow very slowly. If necessary, the sprouts dive into separate containers after the appearance of 2-3 leaves. Practice shows that in most cases a full-fledged outlet barely has time to form by the end of the year, and therefore astilba is transplanted into open ground only next spring.

Young bushes will throw out the first flower stalks not earlier than in the third year of life.

Astilba planting methods

There are several options for breeding astilba at their summer cottage:

• planting seeds in open ground;
• planting seedlings, personally obtained at home;
• rooting of perennial divisions (renewal buds).

The first two methods cause the greatest discussion among flower growers, the latter does not bring much trouble and 99.9% gives a good result.

How to root the renewal buds purchased in February, and when to plant astilba in the ground, is discussed in detail in the video on the Garden World website:

Planting seeds in open ground

This method of growing perennials in household plots is practically not used. However, it is not advisable to exclude him from flower growing practice forever. Some gardeners are ready to give real examples of astilba self-sowing - cases when new, distinctive in appearance, but generally wonderful plants appeared next to a varietal perennial. By the way, this is the only way to reproduce astilba in the wild.

In other words, growing perennials from seeds at home is possible. After flowering panicles, they do not need to be cut. By autumn, the seed will leave the astilbe boxes on its own. From 50 or more thousand dust-like seeds will fall to the ground. In winter, wilted greens will become a natural perennial protection from freezing.

On a note! Experts note that many varieties of astilba do not freeze and do not rot. Most often they die due to the natural aging of the rhizome. Plants are in vital need of dividing the root and regularly deepening it into the soil. Such a measure rejuvenates the perennial, stimulates growth.

After lying in the winter in the open field, the seeds will undergo stratification and in the spring will give rare seedlings. The intervention of the summer resident in the process will not play a role. Let's say this is an uncontrolled way of breeding astilba, where you should not rely on your own knowledge and skills, but at random.

If the goal is to grow a perennial from purchased varietal seeds, one must turn to the second method - obtaining astilba seedlings.

Botanists say that the vitality of the plant can be envied

Planting seedlings grown at home

Julia shares her experience of sowing seeds:

What are the further actions of the grower who managed to grow strong seedlings? How to plant astilba in open ground? Compliance with the following rules of agricultural technology will be the key to the successful rooting of a perennial.

Firstly, astilba prefers loamy soil, with a high groundwater table. The optimal acidity is 5.5 / 6.5 pH. Secondly, while the young perennial is adapting to the new environment, it is important to protect the seedling planting site from both frost and active sun and dry wind.

When to plant? When choosing the time, you should trust the thermometer, and not the lunar calendar. If there is a threat of return frosts, it is better to reschedule the event. Even a light frost can kill astilba seedlings. In May-June, with steadily warm weather, seedlings are transplanted into open ground from the north side of the house, in partial shade, by transshipment.

On a note! Shelter of plants is not needed if you first harden the astilba, taking it out to an open loggia, a balcony.

Holes are dug in the flower garden, maintaining a distance of 35-40 cm. The bottom is flavored with ash. The astilba root is lowered to a depth of up to 20 cm. It is important to ensure that the renewal buds are covered with soil, with a layer of up to 3 cm.

Within a week, astilbe will adapt and grow.

After transplanting, the soil around the seedling is well mulched. Use peat or humus. Uncovered earth quickly evaporates water, and the perennial is very fond of moist places. Astilba is watered regularly for 10-15 days until obvious signs of rooting appear. Feeds are not needed.

Read more about the transplant rules on the 7 Dachas website:

Astilba care basics

Growing perennials in the open field does not cause problems and worries for gardeners. The main thing is that the right place is chosen for the plant.

We remind you that the ideal site is characterized by:

• scattered shadow created by shrubs or trees;
• moist air provided by a pond or stream.

Astilba is especially luxurious near ponds and streams.

Sufficient water as a vital requirement

A change in moisture conditions is instantly reflected in the appearance of the astilba. Growing in sunny areas, combined with a lack of moisture in the soil, leads to a decrease in the size of bushes and panicles.

Additionally, there are the following consequences:

• delay in the growth of rhizomes;
• leaf fall;
• shortening the flowering period;
• loss of general decorativeness.

With low air humidity and constant windiness, the plant can fold and drop foliage, astilbe burns and dries.

In this case it is necessary:

• re-mulch the soil;
• water the plant abundantly and regularly;
• spray greens;
• organize artificial shading during hot hours;
• take care of a more dense planting of perennials.

On a note! Astilba tends to crowd out weeds. The flower garden will always look well-groomed.

Drought tolerant varieties

Today, breeders have managed to develop perennial specimens that are tolerant of arid climates. So, the Japanese astilbe is able to survive even in conditions of water shortage. The scorched greenery will die, but in the spring the plant will again throw out the young shoots. Do not rush to uproot the flower ruined this year. At the very least, give the rhizome a chance to show off next season.

Relatively dry soil will not harm Astilba Chinese Superba and Purpurlance.

Beauty Superba

flowering period

Astilba flowering time depends on the variety and climatic conditions. In general, panicles mature within 60-120 days after awakening (coming out of the dormant period).

Usually, Japanese astilba and all undersized varieties are opened first, followed by approximately simultaneously simple-leaved, Thunberg, as well as medium-sized hybrids of Arends and Lemoine. Chinese perennials close the flowering season.

The duration of the riot of colors directly depends on the climatic features of the area and varies within 12-35 days. Individual astilbes at the end of flowering do not lose their natural palette, creating the effect of an incredibly long flowering.

The lower the variety, the earlier it ripens.

On a note! Gardeners note that panicles fade faster in sunny areas than in shady areas.

If there is no goal to stock up on seeds, semi-dry astilba brushes are cut off. At the same time, the bushes do not lose their decorative effect. Red, brown, brown-green and green foliage retains its beauty until the very frost. The main thing is that autumn is warm, the air is regularly saturated with moisture, the temperature drops slowly (gradually).

A monochromatic flower garden in this form will last September and October

How to properly trim the faded astilba will teach "Good advice":

loosening

Astilba loves soft and loose loam

Loosening allows you to increase the air permeability of the soil around the astilba, to control weeds. The event is useful to hold 2-3 times per season.

During loosening, the soil is not turned over. The main task is to destroy the crust on the surface of the hole. The procedure is carried out carefully with an ordinary weeder, focusing on a depth of 5-10 cm.

top dressing

How to grow a healthy and strong plant? You just need to root a quality seedling in the ground, create a shaded environment and ensure a regular supply of moisture to the roots. Astilba will grow, bloom and delight the gardener's eye.

It is impossible to say that a perennial vitally needs regular top dressing. However, pampering your favorite bush with “goodies” is also not prohibited.

Gardeners feed astilba 3 times a year: in spring - with nitrogen fertilizers, in June (when it blooms) - with complex complexes, until August 10-15 - with phosphorus-potassium compounds, ash. In the latter case, the plant's resistance to pests and diseases increases, as well as its winter hardiness.

Reason for dividing the rhizome and transplant time

In a favorable atmosphere, astilba will soon grow. The root collar rises 3-5 cm above the ground in a year. At first, it must be spudded (sprinkled with soil), otherwise the perennial will stop blooming. After 4-5 years, the plant must be transplanted.

The peculiarity of the astilba rhizome is such that the growth of renewal buds does not occur horizontally, but vertically, and at the very surface of the earth. If young roots are left without soil cover, they will die: they will dry out in summer or freeze in winter.

In this form, astilba is sold in nurseries.

On a note! The crushing of peduncles and perennial bushes is a direct signal of the exposure of the root neck and shoots.

In one place, astilba can grow up to 20 years. However, in this case it is better not to wait for a lush vegetative mass and large panicles. If the gardener wants to increase the decorativeness of the bush, one should regularly (with a frequency of 3-4 years) divide the rhizome into parts and transplant the delenki to a new place of residence. This is the most common and separate story that deserves attention. The benefit of the event is obvious - there are more flowering bushes, the garden is more beautiful.

It is believed that the best period for transplanting is spring (without frost) or autumn (end of August - September). Delenki astilba before wintering should have time to take root. To reduce the stress of a transplanted plant, greens can be sprayed with epin or phytosporin. Adaptation will be faster and with minimal losses.

On a note! Horticultural practice has shown that, contrary to the literary instructions, astilbes take root well at any time of the active growing season, even during the flowering period!

How to care for a transplanted delenka? In the usual way:

• maintain soil moisture by mulching;
• feed after engraftment three times a year;
• cut off the discarded flower stalks 1 time after transplantation to allow the plant to get stronger.

Preparing astilba for wintering

In a mild climate and heavy snow, the bush can not be covered

Plant care in the fall involves a number of activities:

• top dressing with phosphorus and potassium;
• updating mulch over the rhizome;
• cut dried and lost decorative greenery;
• frost protection if needed.

Astilba stems are cut almost to the root. From above, the “stumps” are spudded and covered with mulch with a layer of 5 to 20 cm. Hay, leaves, sawdust, high-moor peat, spruce branches are used.

In autumn, these materials will protect the soil and astilbe roots from weathering, as well as leaching due to heavy rains. In winter, the shelter will eliminate the risk of soil freezing, becoming the key to the healthy development of the bush for the next season.

Practice has shown that in warm regions, astilba is not prepared for winter. The work is reduced to restoring order in the garden. In the Far East, in areas with severe winters, it is better to play it safe and “warmer” to cover the perennial. Then you can sleep peacefully in frost and snowlessness.

Due to the variety of colors, the duration of the flowering period and undemanding care, the perennial herbaceous plant astilba is very popular among summer residents. Today we will tell you how the astilbe is prepared for winter.

By its nature, the astilba ornamental shrub is hardy and frost-resistant, so the plant can be cultivated in various climatic zones. In order for a perennial to successfully winter, you need to know how to properly prepare it for wintering. According to experienced gardeners, there is no single scheme for preparing and warming ornamental plants. Astilba shelter for the winter in the Moscow region, Krasnodar, the Volga region or the Urals has significant differences.

So, the preparation of the perennial for the upcoming cold weather begins in early autumn. First, the territory of the garden plot is removed from branches broken by the wind, fallen leaves, dry tops and other vegetation. Dry leaves and tops can be sent to a composter for humus. Removing weed grass, loosening the soil in the near-trunk circle and water-charging watering provide the necessary oxygen access to the roots of plants growing in the garden.

Video: "Technology of autumn pruning of astilba"

From this video you will learn how to prepare and insulate a perennial shrub for the winter.

pruning

Autumn is the season for trimming ornamental shrubs. At the same time, the timing of pruning depends on the cultivated perennial variety and its growing zone. Early varieties of astilba bloom at the very beginning of summer, later ones - closer to the end of the growing season. In the southern regions, the pruning procedure falls at the end of October or the beginning of November, in the northern regions - at the last decade of September.

At the end of flowering, dry flower stalks remain on the shrub. Some novice gardeners are wondering if dried flowers need to be pruned or if they can be left until spring. The presence of dry branches does not prevent the plant from growing and developing, but the decorative culture loses its attractiveness. Removing dried flowers allows you to more accurately and competently insulate the shrub for the winter. In order for the astilbe bush to be insulated for the winter, it is necessary to cut off the old shoots damaged by the wind and harmful insects, and also remove the dry inflorescences. Astilba shoots need to be cut almost to the very root. The distance from the cut to the matured wood should be at least 2-3 cm.

Mulching

Immediately after the sanitary pruning of the crown, the root system and young shoots are mulched. Young shrubs are insulated with peat, sawdust, tree bark, straw, small spruce twigs, hay, dry earth and sand. For soil mulch in the trunk circle, you can use trimmings of covering material and pieces of cardboard. Perennials aged 1 to 5 years are covered with a layer of mulch 5-7 cm high.

Plants aged 5 years and older, the root system of which has grown so much that it began to break through to the top, need more thorough shelter. The height of the mulching layer should be at least 20-25 cm. From above, the shrubs are covered with pine spruce branches or non-woven covering material.

Fertilizer

Astilba belongs to plants that are unpretentious to growing conditions, however, top dressing with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers helps to strengthen the root system of the perennial. With the advent of autumn, it is recommended to abandon nitrogen-containing fertilizers, which give enhanced growth and development of ornamental plants.

Closer to mid-autumn, adult shrubs are fed with organic matter. Organic type fertilizers decompose very slowly. Accordingly, astilba will begin to use them as an additional source of nutrition only with the onset of spring heat.

winter shelter

Now let's figure out whether it is necessary to cover astilba for the winter. A perennial shrub with high frost resistance. Therefore, in regions where there is a lot of snow and there are no severe frosts, no special shelter is required for this ornamental crop. According to the recommendations of experienced gardeners, the shrub should be mulched with peat, tree bark and sawdust, hay, straw, dry foliage and earth. The mulching layer should completely cover the root system of the perennial and its shoots, the length of which after pruning reaches only 5-10 cm.

Plants aged 5 years and older are additionally insulated with pine spruce branches, lutrasil, agrofibre, geotextile fabric and other non-woven covering materials. This procedure is necessary in order to prevent freezing of the rhizome protruding above the ground, as well as to protect plants from glaciation during an unforeseen thaw. In severe frosts, it is recommended to make an additional frame fence made of wooden boards, inside which you can pour dry earth and leaves fallen from trees.

Regional Distinctive Features

The technology of preparation and shelter for the winter of fruit and ornamental crops depends on the characteristics of the climatic zone. If you do not properly prepare for wintering, you can destroy the plants growing in the garden with your own hands.

Astilba bushes growing in the south of the country do not need to be covered. Mild and warm winter, which is typical for the Crimea, Kuban, Stavropol Territory, Adygea and Krasnodar Territory, is not terrible for astilba. In order for an ornamental perennial shrub to successfully winter, you need to properly mulch its rhizome and cut shoots.

The middle zone of Russia is characterized by sharp temperature changes. An unexpected thaw can be replaced by a sharp cold snap and severe frosts. The water accumulated in the ground freezes, which leads to glaciation of the astilba root. Ornamental shrubs cultivated in the Moscow region and other central regions of the country are insulated with any non-woven material.

As for the Urals, Siberia and other northern regions, astilbe bushes are recommended to be additionally insulated with pine spruce branches, slate or roofing material. Make sure that moisture does not begin to collect inside the protective structure, otherwise the plants may die.

Common Mistakes

Due to their inexperience, novice gardeners often make typical mistakes when preparing plants for wintering. So, covering astilba with plastic wrap can lead to the appearance of mold and fungal spores on the rhizome of the shrub. To avoid the death of a decorative perennial, you should choose the right covering material.

If it was not possible to find an alternative to polyethylene, it is recommended to make small holes in the film, which will act as special dies for air exchange.

Incorrectly selected fertilizers and a violation of the technology of their introduction into the soil lead to the withering of the plant. Too late or, conversely, early pruning of shoots and dry inflorescences is one of the main reasons for freezing astilba in winter. A plant weakened after pruning does not have time to get stronger and gain strength before the first frost.