How to insulate a door and upholster it beautifully with dermantine. Do-it-yourself insulation and upholstery of entrance wooden doors. Features of metal door trim

Leatherette- a substitute for leather, is one of the most sought-after materials. The material is most widely used in construction and decoration.

The high demand for leatherette is justified by the following characteristics:

Frost resistance. The material performs its functions well even at sub-zero temperatures. It also helps keep the heat in the house, so it can be used on front doors;
Durability. The material retains properties from 7 to 10 years;
Water resistance. The material has moisture-resistant properties, which eliminates damage to the product or insulation;
Soundproofing. The material can be used for the front door, since noise will not penetrate the room through the canvas;
Ease of care. To keep the look of leatherette, wiping with a damp cloth is enough. You can use a special cream that will give the leatherette a shine;
Antiseptic properties. Resistant to bacterial decay, mold and other pests;
Resistance to aggressive chemical environment. The material can be washed with any household chemical;
Low cost. Sheathe leatherette affordable for the average family;
Wide range of textures and colors.

In the process of upholstery of the product, you must adhere to a certain technology. It will allow you to make the most of useful properties material and ensure a long service life. The procedure includes the following steps:

surface preparation;
upholstery with insulation;
leatherette upholstery;
decor accessories.

Each stage has its own nuances, so you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the features of the implementation of the listed points.

Training

If the skin is being replaced, it is necessary to stock up on a knife, pliers and, if necessary, a screwdriver. The procedure is as follows:

Removing from the loops.
Dismantling of accessories.
With the help of pliers, all decorative nails are removed.
Leatherette and insulation are removed. Getting rid of the insulation may take some time if it was attached to metal door with glue.
The surface is being prepared for cladding.

If the door was not upholstered before, then all the fittings are simply removed. It is necessary to remove all elements that stick out on the surface. A flat surface should go under the leatherette, so you can level the relief with a plywood plate. You can fasten it with ordinary nails. It is important not to forget to treat the wood with special means.

insulation

First you need to decide on the material of the insulation. The most suitable for dermatin are:

Foam rubber. Low price, a wide range of density and thickness. It has a service life equal to dermatin. Possesses average insulating properties;
Batting. Inexpensive material, with a service life of up to 30 years. However, it will shrink over time and may absorb moisture. It is toxic when burned;
Izolon (a subspecies of polyethylene foam). The most modern version. It has good insulating properties. The most expensive of all materials, but the final cost will not be too high.

On a wooden surface, the insulation is fixed with a stapler. FROM outer side from the edges you need to retreat up to 8 cm. A heater is applied to the entire area, without indentation. Marking is applied for working with a stapler or driving nails. The step between staples or nails should be 10–15 cm. Processing is carried out around the entire perimeter.

For a metal surface, glue is needed, which is also applied around the perimeter, stepping back up to 8 cm from the edges. We must not forget to cut the insulation on the handle, lock and eye.

Preparation of tools, accessories

To rationally use time, before upholstery, you need to acquire a set of necessary tools. The set includes:

a hammer;
stationery knife and, if necessary, scissors;
stapler (if not, a hammer is used);
roulette;
marker;
brushes (for metal surfaces).

The list of tools and materials for wooden and metal doors is slightly different. Therefore, the plating technology for each material has its own. It is also important to acquire all the materials at once:

leatherette;
insulation;
staples for a stapler or nails (wooden surface);
glue (metal);
decorative nails;
braid (in case you need to additionally fix leatherette, and decorate the door).

Reference! It is not difficult to choose decorative nails by design, as the market is overflowing with products. different shapes, sizes and colors.

upholstery technology

Working together will go much faster. The second person will help stretch the fabric for comfort and evenness of the relief. The edges of the canvas are always bent inward, which will make the upholstery field durable and aesthetic. Gates should be a few centimeters. The wooden door is upholstered with carnations with a decorative cap. Step from 10 to 15 cm.

Important! It is necessary to ensure that the insulating rollers do not look out of the gates.

Leatherette should not cover the door to the very edges. A few millimeters need to retreat, which will ensure free movement.

Figured design is often used with decorative nails. Soft insulation allows you to create a relief on the surface, which will completely transform the door. Be sure to mark the places for installing accessories with a marker. Next, carnations are hammered into the intended places, which usually have a removable decorative cap so as not to damage it during installation.

Exists a large number of patterns that can be created on the surface: from simple dots to geometric shapes such as rhombuses, squares. On the Internet, you can find many schemes for decorating with furniture nails. Between the nails, you can stretch a decorative thread that will change the pattern and relief.

For a metal door, you need to come up with a drawing at the preparation stage in order to fix the bases of the screw buttons on the glue. In the insulation and leatherette, small holes are made in advance for screw buttons.

Upholstery of a wooden door: video

Upholstery has its own nuances. Wood needs care and protection. Therefore, often wooden doors have an unpresentable appearance. good option restoration is upholstered with leatherette. The tree must be treated with an antiseptic. When working with a wooden canvas, the lining must be fixed with a stapler. Since glue is required for the iron surface, it is much easier to staple the wooden canvas. Furniture studs are used on the edges.

In order to be able to decorate the doors correctly, you must follow the instructions given in the video.

How to sheathe a metal door with leatherette?

A metal door is usually placed at the entrance, so it is extremely it is important to use a quality insulation. Often only the inner side is insulated, however, a range of decorative accessories allows you to decorate the outer side using insulation.

A metal door does not require insulating rollers with outside. The size of the insulation should be 1–2 cm smaller at the edges of the surface area. Leatherette you need to take a piece 5–6 cm larger at the edges than the door area. This is necessary for the bend. The upholstery process consists of the following steps:

Glue is applied around the perimeter, stepping back up to 2 cm, and in thin strips over the area.
A heater is applied, and pressed for a while. The drying time of the glue is indicated on the package.
Starting from the top, glue is applied to the back of the product at a distance of 5 cm from the edge. Press leatherette for the glue to set.
Similarly, the procedure is carried out on the lateral edges. It is important to stretch the canvas to a uniform relief. Sometimes you have to cut off extra pieces that will prevent you from closing the door.

Lining on the inside

The inside of the front door can be insulated with polystyrene foam. Thus, it will also be possible to simplify the procedure for upholstery with leatherette. The warming process is as follows:

A frame under the foam plastic is fixed along the area of \u200b\u200bthe door. For this, strips having the thickness of expanded polystyrene plates are used. The rails are fixed with the help of metal screws, which are fixed in pre-drilled holes.
All large seams and joints are sealed with mounting foam.
Styrofoam plates are installed in the frame, which are fixed with a special glue. The gaps between the plates and slats are also sealed with mounting foam.
A sheet of plywood, even with the area of the door, is nailed to the rails.
Further, the procedure is similar to the upholstery of wooden products. It is only important to ensure that decorative nails are nailed to the location of the rails.

From the inside, the insulating rollers are attached to the door frame. They should be placed flush with leatherette from the side of the loops. On the reverse side and on top, the protrusion should be up to 5 mm. From below, the roller is located at a height of 1.5–2 cm from the floor.

When choosing a material for upholstery, it is important to remember the disadvantages of leatherette:

Low fire safety. A highly flammable material that emits acrid smoke when burned;
Not the strongest material, which is easily scratched and cut;
In case of mechanical damage, it will not be possible to return the previous appearance.

Also have important points, which must be considered when choosing dermatin:

The material must be elastic. The hardness of leatherette indicates a fake;
Choose a coarser canvas;
A pungent odor indicates a low quality canvas.

When upholstering with leatherette, it is important to maintain the sequence of the process, and take into account the characteristics of the materials used. If the technology is not violated, then such upholstery will last up to 10 years.

Canvases may lose their attractive appearance over time. appearance, and the owners are seriously thinking about replacing them. But this is not always reasonable - in most cases, the situation is corrected by finishing wooden doors.

To return the canvas to a neat look, it is upholstered with different materials, decorated with fittings. It is quite possible to do this on your own. For sheathing wooden doors you will need:

scissors;
pencil;
roulette;
a hammer;
construction stapler;
building and decorative nails;
mounting adhesive;
necessary accessories;
insulation;
pliers;
screwdriver;
ticks;
selected finishing material.

What materials are suitable for upholstery?

To update the door structure, spending a minimum of time and effort, you can simply paint the canvas in any color. Sheathing a wooden door is a more labor-intensive and time-consuming task.

Suitable for upholstery of wooden doors with your own hands different materials.

Laminate represents boards for finishing, from the inside, laid with waterproof paper. The modern construction market offers many design options for this material: wood, stone, tile, etc. Thanks to this range, you can create a beautiful decoration doors in any interior. In addition, the laminate provides excellent heat and sound insulation. But due to the hygroscopicity of the material, it is used only for interior cladding.

Plastic– PVC finish with added chemical substances, increasing the resistance of the material to high temperatures, exposure to ultraviolet radiation and moisture. It is easy to install and maintain. Viniplast is widely used for finishing - a durable, elastic material that is easily attached with glue to wood, concrete, metal. Usually products are not sheathed with plastic from the outside, it mainly serves for interior decoration.

If selected for upholstery, then experts advise sheathing the door with a leatherette made on the basis of synthetic fabric. Such a material is elastic, stretches easily, does not crack even at high temperatures, has high strength, can be of various shades and is suitable for upholstery on both the inside and outside of the fabric.

Door trim MDF panels popular because of their resistance to moisture and mechanical damage. This is achieved through coverage. PVC film. MDF can be finished front door with your own hands.

A great solution would be to sheathe an old wooden door. clapboard. This material is a wooden slats of small thickness, equipped with special grooves for ease of attachment.

Marine plywood It looks like solid wood from the outside. It is treated with stain and covered with frost-resistant varnish, so it can be used to decorate entrance doors.

Preparatory work

Dismantling of locks, peephole, decor, handles.
Careful removal of the old coating. The main thing is not to damage the sash.
Removing the canvas from the hinges and laying it horizontally on a table or several stools.
Cutting material for finishing according to the parameters of the sash.

Leather upholstery

In the past, a leatherette-trimmed canvas was considered a luxury. Now it's more affordable option decor, and it is very popular. A neat appearance, good heat and sound insulation properties make leatherette an excellent solution for sheathing a door.

Wooden

Wooden doors can be finished both from the inside and from the outside. There are some differences in technology.

In case of working with wooden products from the inside, they begin by determining the scheme for opening the door - inward or outward. This determines the size and location of the sealing beads.

Upholstery inside do-it-yourself leatherette doors step by step:

FROM outside the upholstery process is as follows:

The door is closed and 1 cm recede from the edge of the canvas.
On the bottom, just above the edge of the sash, a sealing roller is fixed.
The fabric is upholstered with insulation, starting at the top and descending evenly on both sides. It is important to prevent sagging of the material.
The last step is to cover the door with leatherette, securing the folded edges with nails. If desired, a pattern is formed with decorative fasteners.

metal

Facing metal doors with leatherette is a more complicated matter. Majority modern manufacturers We supply doors that already have an interior finish. But some inexpensive models do not have such elements and require independent upholstery.

Scheme interior decoration metal door:

The steel sheet of the web must be overlaid around the perimeter wooden slats, attach the foam and seal the gaps with mounting foam. Close the resulting layer with a sheet of plywood.
On the door, carefully pulling, impose a heater, fixing it with glue or staples.
Leatherette is cut to the size of the sash, leaving a margin for tucking.
The material is fixed from above, then, pulling, they fall along the edges.

If desired, a pattern is created on the canvas using decorative elements.

Scheme outer upholstery metal doors:

According to the size of the sash, a synthetic winterizer or foam rubber is cut, making it 8-10 mm smaller than the canvas.
Leatherette is cut according to the formula: the size of the insulation plus 6–7 cm.
Glue the insulation on the door. You need to wait a while for the material to adhere.
Attach a layer of leatherette, evenly stretching so that there is no sagging. The edges are folded over the ends of the canvas and fixed with glue.
Install the necessary fittings.

Clapboard lining

The lining is ideal for upholstery of wood and metal products, entrance and outdoor canvases. Reiki are easy to assemble due to the fact that they are equipped with special grooves.

Wooden

Independently and with a minimum of costs, you can sheathe a wooden door with clapboard. The technology is quite simple:

Prepare the door leaf for upholstery by removing it and removing the old covering.
Place horizontally.
Cut the lining to the desired size.
Attach the first rail with the finishing nail exactly along the edge of the canvas. Use a level to adjust.
The next panels are tightly joined to the previous ones and secured with nails.
Clean up ends when finished.
Treat the finished surface with varnish, wait until it dries, and install the fittings.

metal

This process is more complex. Preparation is the same as in the first case. Reiki are cut to the required size.

You can attach them to the door leaf in two ways:

use special fasteners (kleimers) to place the skin directly on the metal;
make a wooden frame from a narrow beam to the size of the door and attach the slats to it, joining them with each other and fixing them with nails. This option is good if you plan to additional insulation doors: warm insulating material laid under the crate.

They finish the work by sanding the ends, varnishing and then installing the necessary fittings.

No matter how expensive and high-quality the door is, after some time it will lose its original appearance and require restoration. The easiest way to give a door a second life is to upholster it. A variety of materials can be used for door trim. The technology of work from the upholstery material practically does not change. Read the suggested instructions, and you can easily do the repair yourself.

For self-upholstery of doors suitable for many various materials, namely:

PVC film;
leather;
dermantin;
vinyl skin.

The last option on the list is the most preferred. Viniliskin is superior to leatherette and artificial leather in the main quality characteristics and is cheaper than genuine leather.

The upholstery material can be purchased at a specialized store in cuts. In general, the size of the cut should be approximately 15 cm larger than the dimensions of the door on each side.

Upholstery will require you to make special rollers from upholstery material. In total, you need to prepare three strips with a width of about 100-150 mm. Select the height individually according to the height of your door structure.

Choose your lining material. A budget option- foam. A lining 1-2 cm thick is enough.

If you want to improve the sound and heat insulation characteristics of the door, use isolon instead of foam rubber. This is very practical material with excellent performance and properties. It costs a little more than simple foam rubber and significantly surpasses it in all characteristics.

Additionally, you will need to buy various small accessories, the same decorative nails. Available for sale huge selection such products in a wide variety of color variations. Choose to your taste.

If you wish, you can buy upholstery nails, originally upholstered in leather or leatherette. They will be invisible on the main door leaf, which in many situations is the right decision.

In general, try to choose nails whose color will be as close as possible to the color of the upholstery. After restoration, the door should have a harmonious appearance, unless otherwise provided by your design project.

Work on self-upholstery of the door is carried out using glue. You can buy the most ordinary Moment type glue, etc. One side door leaf it will take about 100 ml of glue.

In the process of self-upholstery of a wooden door, there should not be any difficulties. Understand the proposed instructions, understand the difference between the sheathing of the outer and inner planes of the canvas and get to work.

Finishing the inside of a wooden door

This method is suitable for finishing those models that open inward, i.e. into the space of the room.

First step. Make a special roller. With this element you will hide the gap between door frame and directly to the canvas. Also, in some situations, the roller will contribute to a tighter fit of the canvas to the frame.

Second step. Attach a strip of upholstery to the front of the door so that it rests on the base by about 35-40 mm. Fix with a special stapler.

If overhead locks are installed on the door, start fastening the material from it. If your locks are mortise, fastening should start slightly below the central part of the long side of the door. Cover the entire perimeter of the canvas with similar strips.

Third step. Lay foam rubber or other selected filler. Pre-cut the material into strips about 100 mm wide. To attach the lining, use the same stapler. The resulting roller should protrude by approximately 10-40 mm, depending on the characteristics of the ratio of the door itself and decorative trim. On this roller is ready.

Fourth stage. Measure the space between the inner edges of the roller you created and cut out a strip of thick foam rubber. To determine the appropriate strip width, subtract 10 mm on each side from the previous bead measurement. Attach the finished foam strip.

Fifth stage. Proceed directly to the upholstery of the door. Take a piece of the selected upholstery material around the corner, carefully fold its edges about 6 cm and lay it in the corner of the door leaf so that the upholstery comes a little on the surface of the previously prepared roller.

Hammer a decorative nail at a distance of about 0.5 cm from the edge.

Take the upholstery material by the second upper corner, tuck it in the same way, and hammer in the second decorative nail, pulling the upholstery a little.

Make sure the piece of upholstery is laid evenly. To do this, run your hand along the center line of the door with a small clip, reach the bottom and, holding the upholstery tightly with your hand, attach its lower corners to the edges of the door. If the distance is the same on both edges, you can continue to work. If there are discrepancies, the fastening of the upholstery will have to start over, otherwise it will be uneven and ugly at the end.

Nail the upper edge of the canvas with decorative nails in 1 cm increments. Then, follow the same pattern, finish any side part, carefully tucking the upholstery on equal distance and pull it back a little.

Get to the bottom edge and move on to finishing the second side. At the end, fix the lower free edge with a stapler. On this self-plating completed. Proceed to install the peephole and old or new locks.

If the door structure consists of two wings, the restoration is carried out in the same order. Important nuance consists only in the fact that the vertical roller must be equipped on a sash with a handle.

Video - Do-it-yourself door upholstery

Finishing the outside of a wooden door

This is an instruction for structures tearing outward.

First step. Close the door and transfer the projection of its box directly onto the canvas. This will give you the outline of the new upholstery. Indentation around the edges is necessary for the "quarter".

Second step. Fasten the lining material with about a centimeter indent from the intended line.

Third step. Just as in the previous instructions, nail the main piece of upholstery, leaving its bottom edge not fixed.

Fourth step. Make an insulating roller. With external upholstery, it is attached to the box, and not to the canvas. It is made in almost the same way as when making internal upholstery, only the volume of internal foam rubber needs to be slightly increased.

Place the roller on the hinge side so that it is flush with the door jamb. In relation to the lock side and the upper part, the roller must be extended by 0.5 cm. Attach bottom side finished roller to the door leaf, so that when closing it is tightly pressed against the door sill.

If you attach the roller directly to the threshold, it will wear out very quickly due to rubbing with your feet.

Fifth step. Secure the bottom edge of the upholstery with construction stapler, and then install locks, new or old handles, a peephole and, if necessary, decorative elements.

There are two main options for sheathing a metal door structure: a budget one using materials like vinyl leather, leatherette and the like, and more expensive using decorative panels. Read the instructions for each of them and choose the option that suits you.

Video - Upholstery and insulation of metal doors

Budget way

Restoration of metal doors can be performed using the same materials as wooden canvases. However, in this case, there is no need to use decorative carnations - everything is done with glue.

First step. Carefully grease the edges of the door leaf with high-quality glue and fix the foam strips on it. Cut off the excess lining along the door profile.

Second step. Apply adhesive to the end of the top of the door and proceed with gluing the selected upholstery material. Glue the top first, then door hinges, after them glue the locks, and finally the bottom of the door. Smooth out creases and get rid of material distortions directly in the process.

Third step. After the glue is completely dry (drying time is indicated in the instructions for specific means) cut off excess material, if any, with a sharp utility knife. Be careful not to damage the main upholstery.

Fourth step. Install the peephole, handles and return the locks to their place.

expensive way

This method involves padding metal structure special panels. For outdoor upholstery, linings made of MDF are optimally suited. They are manufactured in several standard sizes. After such upholstery, the door will look no worse than expensive factory-made counterparts.

Perform interior decoration with wall panels. Choose the upholstery material in accordance with the interior of the room and the features of the operation of the door. MDF has a more attractive appearance, often imitating the texture of exclusive and expensive wood, but this material needs to be treated with care. Plastic panels are much easier to maintain, but not as beautiful.

First step. Measure your metal drill. You need to know the width and exact height of the canvas. On the inside of the door you will find corners designed to increase the rigidity of the door structure. The width of such corners corresponds to the depth of the door leaf. You also need to fix this parameter in the measurements. You will need it when buying sheet foam and wooden beams.

Define the inner height of the canvas as the distance from the bottom to the top corner. The width of the inner surface, respectively, will be equal to the distance between the side metal corners. Record the measurement results.

Second step. Go to the construction store along with the results of previous measurements. Buy there polystyrene, panels of the selected material, wooden beam and decorative corner with a 10-15% margin.

Third step. Return home, and proceed to finish the door. First, cut the block into 4 pieces. The length of these segments must correspond to the width of the door leaf.

Take a bar, attach it to the upper edge of the canvas and, using a marker or pencil, draw a line along this bar on the base. Do the same at the bottom of the canvas. Place the remaining blocks on the door so that all 4 bars as a result are installed at approximately the same distance. Leave appropriate labels.

Fourth step. Armed with an electric drill, make 16 mounting holes in your door. There should be 4 holes for each bar. The diameter of these holes should be equal to the diameter of the screws.

Fifth step. Fix the bars on the canvas with self-tapping screws. This will give you a frame.

Sixth step. Drill mounting holes to secure the upholstery panel. Optimal quantity mounting holes for each such panel, as a rule, is given by the manufacturer in the attached instructions.

Seventh step. Prepare in cladding panel peepholes, locks and handles.

Eighth stage. Fix the panel. For greater convenience, you can remove the door leaf from the hinges.

Move on to upholstery on the inside of the door leaf.

First step. Fasten the frame bars to the canvas as you did with the outer upholstery.

Second step. Cut the foam into pieces, focusing on the distance between the frame bars. In the appropriate parts of the foam, make holes for the peephole, handles and door locks.

Third step. Lay the foam sheets in the spaces between all the bars. Additionally, you can fix the foam with high-quality glue.

Fourth step. Fasten internal panels on the frame. Plastic panels are fastened with a stapler, while MDF panels are fixed with clamps.

Fifth step. Fasten a decorative corner of a suitable material around the perimeter of the door leaf. It will hide the edges of the upholstery elements and give the door a more attractive appearance.

Sixth step. Put a peephole, handles, locks, if necessary, replace the trim.

These simple instructions will allow you to update the look of your door with minimal financial and time costs.

Successful work!

Video - How to upholster a door with your own hands

The older generation remembers well that in the early 80s, the lining of the front door with leatherette was considered the highest glamor of the apartment owners. After all, a simple citizen of the country could not afford such a finishing option. And not because there was no money for the material. The problem was that it was possible to buy dermantin only for a very large "pull" - there was practically no free sale of it.

With the collapse of the country, the material became more accessible and immediately millions of doors in the expanses of the former Soviet Union received such a close-fitting. However, at the beginning of the new century, interest in dermantin fell sharply due to the relatively low aesthetic and technical characteristics of the material, and the doors upholstered with it began to be classified as provincial. The explanation is simple: unpresentable upholstery with an inexpressive texture and faded colors began to lose to competitors.

Everything has changed again in the last few years. A material has appeared on the market with an excellent texture for genuine leather and a stable color. The result is upholstery back in fashion.

Why dermantin

Before answering the simple question of why leatherette is popular again, it is first necessary to clarify the very concept of leatherette, because. there are many nuances, as well as analyze its advantages over other types of finishing materials.

Dermantin - what is it?

Wikipedia gives the following explanation of dermantin - it is a material made of cotton and nitrocellulose applied on one or two sides. Refers to one of the types of artificial leather. It is applied in various branches of a national economy.

However, over time, both finishers and sellers began to call dermantine all types of leather obtained artificially (the principle of synecdoche worked, when the name of a particular is transferred to a more general category or vice versa). This is confirmed by the price tags in stores where artificial leathers are sold mainly like leatherette, but with a different composition of the material.

Types of leatherette

For door upholstery, you can choose leatherette for every taste, from price to appearance. Most popular: nitro leather, vinyl leather, eco leather and recycled leather.

Nitroleather. The simplest, and at the same time the cheapest type of leatherette (in the classical sense) is nitro-leather. It is a cotton fabric (twill, technical fabric) coated with a nitrocellulose film on one or both sides. Depending on the scope of application, prices for it can range from 160 to 750 rubles / m 2.

The upholstery material has an aesthetic perception, specifications and service life (quickly wears out) correspond to the price - they are at a low level.

Viniliskin. Manufacturers took into account the disadvantages of classic dermantin and began to apply a film of monolithic or porous polyvinyl chloride to the fabric. Such a coating is resistant to abrasion, temperature and humidity changes, while it has a rather attractive appearance - it imitates natural leather. It has a large difference in prices, but this is dictated by the price of the material used as the basis: knitwear, woven and non-woven materials made of natural or artificial fibers.

Acceptable quality upholstery made of vinyl leather can be bought for 250-650 rubles / m 2.

Eco-leather. Application to cotton fabric or polyester polyurethane gives a completely the new kind dermantina - eco-leather. It has a lot of advantages: high elasticity, wear resistance, breathability (the material breathes), strength, etc. But the main highlight is the texture. Increasing the thickness of the polymer layer, followed by pressure treatment, results in a material that cannot be distinguished visually or tactilely from genuine leather.

Doors upholstered in eco-leather look chic. The price of the material is fully consistent with its quality - from 450 to 1,100 rubles / m 2.

Recycled leather. The assignment of recycled leather to dermantin does not quite correspond accepted interpretation the term "dermatin". It is rather a modified genuine leather made from leather fibers and latex crumbs. Various polymers are used to bind the composite.

According to its consumer characteristics - strength, abrasion resistance, elasticity and aesthetic perception - the material is very close to natural leather. It is almost impossible for a non-specialist to distinguish one type of skin from another.

On the door, recycled leather looks very impressive. The price for 1 m 2 ranges from 450 to 1,650 rubles / m 2.

Advantages and disadvantages

The choice of leatherette for upholstery of doors is due to its consumer properties, which are not inferior, but in a number of parameters surpass natural leather. Among them:

democratic price - the material is available to all segments of the country's population;
opposition to development various microorganisms, as a result of which the material does not rot and does not become moldy, which is characteristic of natural leather;
high tensile strength;
abrasion resistance and aggressive environments(some types of acids and alkalis);
easy care - washable laundry soap or any washing powder. Heavily contaminated places are washed with a cotton swab moistened with ammonia;
immunity to the influence of rain, frost (withstands an infinite number of freezing cycles), ultraviolet;
durability - service life regular care, is at least 10 years, during which the texture and colors retain their original appearance;
good heat and sound insulation properties;
a wide variety of textures and colors - you can choose for any interior.

There are also weaknesses:

upholstery cannot be repaired even with a slight cut - only constriction;
highly flammable, which is sometimes used by intruders, setting fire to the door.

The listed shortcomings, although unpleasant, are not critical, requiring the abandonment of leatherette as upholstery material for doors. After all, you can replace the damaged material yourself with minimal cost- You will only have to buy upholstery.

upholstery technology

Do-it-yourself door upholstery with dermantine is carried out in several stages. On the first of them are purchased necessary tools and materials, the second - the door is being prepared for decoration, the third - upholstery is being carried out, the fourth - the upholstered door is decorated.

Materials and tools

Upholstering the front door on your own is within the power of any homeowner, be it a house or an apartment, including female representatives, since the technological process does not provide for significant physical activity- upholstery can be done on installed door. To start work, it is necessary to prepare the main and expendable materials, tools. You will need:

leatherette (how to upholster the door instead of leatherette in its classical sense, we considered above);
insulation. Here you need to purchase material that will allow you to simultaneously solve two problems: to insulate the door and create the basis for obtaining a beautiful relief. These requirements are best met by foam rubber and isolon. You can use other types of insulation: mineral wool, batting, etc. You can get acquainted in detail with the types of insulation materials, their pros and cons in the work "";
decorative nails 70-80 g / m 2 (for metal doors - furniture buttons, for wooden ones - ordinary nails with a decorative hat);

construction nails (50-55 g per 1 m 2 is consumed);

Attention: for metal doors, polymer glue is bought instead of nails.

decorative, usually made of brass, wire, cord (braid), suitable for decoration in texture and color, or fishing line;

paint brush for glue;
construction knife with replaceable blades or scissors for cutting leatherette and insulation;
screwdriver with Phillips and slotted bits or a set of screwdrivers;
roulette;
construction pencil;
hammer (for metal doors - a construction stapler).

Everything you need is in the workplace. Now we will consider how to sheathe a door with dermantine with our own hands quickly, efficiently and beautifully.

Preparatory stage

The algorithm for preparing the door for upholstery at home is as follows:

locks, handles and a peephole are dismantled from the door;

the door leaf is removed from the hinges and placed on a table or four stools;
an audit of the doorway is carried out and, if necessary, seals are changed;
removed old upholstery together with decor fittings, if the banner is made;
the door leaf is degreased (for iron door white spirit or acetone can be used, wood - turpentine or gasoline), washed, and then covered protective equipment(colored);
the wooden door is inspected. If the geometry is broken, special metal corners. The cracks are sealed with sealant. Mold or fungus is removed, and their locations are treated with special compounds;

insulation is cut into size;
leatherette is measured with an overlap of 15 cm on each side for a wooden door and 10 cm for a metal one, after which it is cut out;

For information: the width of the door can reach 100 cm, which is the limit. With a larger opening width, two sashes are installed. The width of the upholstery material is at least 140 cm. Therefore, there is enough leftover for strips under the rollers.

if the door is to be decorated, it will not be superfluous to draw up a drawing in which to indicate the attachment points of the decorating nails;
rollers are being prepared - an upholstery element with two functions: decor and protection from drafts. They are a tube made of upholstery material (leatherette), in which a heater is wrapped. Depending on where the door opens and where the upholstery is made, they can be mounted on the door leaf or on the frame of the door frame.

For information: if the door opens outward, then when upholstering the outer side of the door leaf, it is necessary to prepare 4 rollers and fasten them under the upholstery or on it, if the inside is sheathed, 4 rollers are also prepared, but they are attached to the box from the inside. With a door opening into the room, which is possible with double doors, only three rollers need to be prepared - they are not attached to the hinge side.

Roller Mounting Instructions

For the manufacture of a roller, a strip of dermantine 10-15 cm wide is taken, where trimmings of insulation or material specially produced for this purpose are placed. The step-by-step process of attaching the rollers to the door leaf is as follows (regardless of whether it is mounted under the upholstery or on it):

strips for rollers are cut from the remnants of dermantin (after the pattern for the door) - one for the side where the handle and locks are, two for the top and bottom, if the hinges are external. If hidden, then 4 blanks are cut. Width - 10-15 cm, length - 6-7 cm over size the side of the door where they will be nailed (2-2.5 cm on each side). The overlap is necessary for the formation beautiful corner, where the articulation of adjacent rollers occurs;
for the side of the door with external hinges, five strips are cut out - two are attached opposite the hinges to the door frame (so as not to interfere with the movement of the sash when opened), three to the door itself;
strips of leatherette are nailed (wooden door) or glued (metal) to the edge of the door leaf face down so that the formed roller protrudes no more than 3 cm beyond the edge of the door;
the insulation is laid in the form of a bundle (you can use it ready-made or make it from scraps of insulation);

the strip is wrapped, forming a roller, and attached to the door.

The roller is attached to the door frame in the same way. The only difference is that the rollers located on the box should cover the door by only 5 mm, and on the hinge side they can be installed flush with the canvas.

Upholstery step by step instructions

In the instructions on how to upholster the door on the inside with dermantine, there are 2 options for attaching upholstery material:

classical;
carriage.

Classical

The most simple and affordable method of door upholstery is the classic one. But here it is necessary to take into account such nuances as the type of door leaf (wooden or metal), the presence or absence of insulation, whether subsequent decoration will be carried out.

Wooden doors. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

insulation is placed between the rollers. He should not go on the rollers. Permissible distance to the roller - 1 cm;
with a stapler, the insulating material is attached to the surface of the door;
dermantin is laid on a heater. The edges are tucked inward (by 5-6 cm) so that the upholstery goes a little on the rollers;
decorative nails are beaten at a distance of 7 mm from the edge of the bent dermantine. The first is in one of the upper corners, the second is nailed in the other upper corner. The sheathing fabric must be stretched;
fasten in increments of 10-12 cm top part dermantine;

with the same step there is an alternate lowering down the sides of the doors;
nailed down;
holes are cut for locks, a handle and a peephole.

After that, you can start decorating the doors, which is a little lower.

Metal doors. Here you can’t drive in nails either when attaching an artificial leather sheet or when decorating. Therefore, the upholstery technology is slightly different: the door must be covered with glue, and decorated with furniture buttons. The work algorithm is as follows:

we make a drawing on paper with the location of furniture buttons;
transfer the drawing to the door;

glue the lower part of the furniture button to the door surface;

we put isolon or foam rubber on the buttons and lightly prick so that marks remain;
remove the insulation and cut out the holes for the buttons, keyholes, pen and peephole;
using the insulation as a template, cut out holes in the leatherette;
we coat the door with glue around the perimeter, especially carefully, and then in the middle;
glue the insulation;
to the ends of the doors on top of the rollers we fix the profiles on which the leatherette canvas will be stretched. If they were not provided, then we glue the ends of the door with glue - this is where the leatherette will be attached (in this case, the rollers are glued over the upholstery).

The work is completed by decorating the door and installing fittings.

Karetny

And now let's look at how to properly upholster the door with dermantine with the carriage method of attaching the upholstery material. The step by step process is as follows:

Attention: in a number of publications it is proposed to carry out carriage upholstery directly on a metal door from diamond-shaped pieces of material (this is a classic, or as it is also called, correct option) using furniture buttons. This method of work can be done, but it is very difficult and time consuming. It is more convenient to work with a plywood board 10 mm thick and a single piece of upholstery, where the folds are formed by a nylon thread. The covered shield is subsequently attached to the door in the same way. MDF panels. We will consider this option.

Step 1. We cut plywood 10 mm thick for the size of the doors. After that, we cut out the cardboard to the size of the plywood shield - it will be a template.
Step 2. On cardboard, using a tape measure, a pencil and a ruler, draw diamonds diagonally. The crosshair of the lines will be the place where the upholstery is attached.

Step 3. We transfer the markings from the template to the shield and drill holes in it with a drill with a diameter of 8 mm.
Step 4. Cut out the insulation (only foam rubber or isolon) with an overlap of 80 mm on all sides, after which we glue it to the shield. Glue is applied only in the center and next to the holes. We leave about 10 cm of unglued space around the edges. A bent overlay of foam rubber will be glued here.
Step 5. When the glue dries, we bend the edge of the insulation, grease the plywood with glue and wrap the edges of the foam rubber upside down, glue them to the shield, forming rounded sides.
Step 6. With a screwdriver with a Zifendorf nozzle (a special crown for working with soft materials), we cut out holes with a diameter of 30 mm at the puncture site (for furniture makers, this device is called a “joker”).

Step 7. We take the upholstery material and use a paper template to mark the holes on the reverse side.
Step 8. We sew all the marked points with kapron threads in the same way as buttons are sewn on. Thread tails must remain at least 20 cm.
Step 9. Using a hook or needle, the first row of “tails” is pulled through the insulation and the shield to the back of the plywood and attached to it with a stapler in the form of the letter “Z” three times so that the thread does not stretch during operation. In this case, the canvas should go almost to the shield itself.
Step 10. After attaching three rows with your fingers, we form the first diagonal folds. The bending depth should be about 1 cm. You can take help wooden stick and form folds to her.
Step 11. Having completed the formation of all the folds, we wrap the artificial leather through the side of the insulation on the back side of the shield and fasten it there with a stapler, after which we form the side folds.
Step 12. Buttons are taken, purchased or homemade. A nylon thread is drawn into them and pulled through the upholstery, insulation and plywood to the back of the shield, where they are fastened with a stapler.
Step 13. The shield is attached to the door. Holes for fittings are cut out in it.

For information: in the work "Finishing the front door with your own hands" you can see the technology for attaching panels to doors.

Step 14 Locks, a handle and a peephole are installed.

upholstery decoration

Upholstered doors are very often decorated with decorative nails and brass wire cord, fishing line or braid, matching the color of the upholstery. Some variants of the drawings are shown in the photo below:

To perform decor work, dots are placed on the surface of the upholstered door where a decorative nail will be driven in. A cord is stretched between the nails, forming a relief pattern. At metal doors, decorating comes down to winding the heads of furniture buttons onto pre-glued bases.

Some nuances when working with dermantin

When working with artificial leather, two contingencies often occur:

due to long or improper storage in rolls, the material is wrinkled and does not straighten when pulled - the folds are clearly visible;
during operation on separate places paint blemishes appear.

Problems are easily fixed:

Leatherette can be smoothed either with a wet cloth, for example, a sheet (placed on the expanded outer piece of leatherette), or with hot steam from an iron. In the first case, in the process of drying the thrown over fabric, the leatherette straightens, in the second, the steam immediately smoothes the surface of the artificial leather. The main thing is to steam from the back (wrong side) and in no case touch the material with a hot iron.
Local abrasions are restored acrylic paints for leather and its substitutes. The main problem: to choose a color. You can try to make it yourself by mixing different colors on the palette until the desired color is obtained, or you can ask the seller of paints to use computer program for color selection. But for this you need to provide a paint sample. You can get it from the door by cutting off a piece of folded leatherette. Thrifty owners always have a sample in a secluded place.

If the selection fails, then the entire surface of the doors is repainted. Before painting, the upholstery is washed and degreased with alcohol or vodka. It is best to paint with a foam sponge. After the first layer has dried, apply the second.

Conclusion

door upholstery modern materials, falling under the definition of "leatherette", allows you to get a beautiful and durable door finish. Materials are affordable for a wide range of consumers, and the work itself can be done by the owners themselves - there is nothing complicated in the technology.

How can you beat the door

There are two types of door upholstery - soft and hard. Soft is made from two materials - leatherette (leatherette) and vinyl leather. Leatherette is a woven cotton base coated with a film of nitrocellulose. This material was popular in the 40-60s of the last century, as it was practical and inexpensive. A little later, vinyl artificial leather appeared.

A little bit about vinyl leather and leatherette

This material is made on different bases - woven and non-woven, stretching and not. Accordingly, artificial leather has different properties. A layer of polyvinyl chloride (PVC or PVC) is applied to the base. It is more durable, chemically neutral. It has only one significant drawback - it reacts poorly to ultraviolet rays - it loses elasticity, changes color, and may crack. Therefore, the upholstery of doors that go directly to the street is undesirable with vinyl leather. There is, however, a material with increased resistance to UV rays, but this is exactly special material And you need to pay attention to this when buying.

Now about a little confusion in terminology. Dermantine in its pure form, as it was in the last century, has not been produced for quite a long time. Instead, there is different types vinyl faux leather. There are also materials coated with other polymers, but not so many. Here they are, according to old memory, and are called dermantin or leatherette (although it is correct, by the way, to say “dermatin” without “n”). So seeing this name, it is necessary to clarify what kind of material is meant, since the properties and prices differ significantly.

Despite the fact that the material is essentially the same, it has different characteristics and appearance. There are elastic types that stretch well, there are hard ones that are difficult to stretch. In addition, modern artificial leather has many colors and shades, it can have a different surface structure:

So choose soft upholstery materials wide for a door. Apparently, this is the determining factor in the popularity of this type of door upholstery.

Rigid upholstery for the door

There are more hard upholstery materials for doors, although they are used less often:

MDF panels with a thickness of 8 mm to 18 mm;
natural wood - fragments, solid wood;
veneer;
laminate;
plastic;
postforming.

From this list, most often the doors are trimmed with MDF overlays / panels. Such upholstery is especially popular for decorating metal doors, including home-made ones. The panels are made according to the dimensions of a particular door leaf, after which they are installed on glue or mounting foam into fixed starting bars. In this case, and makes sense.

From the catalog - options for MDF overlays, and all this is still in different colors ...

In practice, the door trim is also covered with other materials - laminate, plastic, postforming. Around the perimeter of the door are installed starting profiles, into which trimmed "to size" trim fragments are inserted. Everything is simple, if you have basic skills in working with a drill, saw and hammer, you can do it yourself in a few hours.

Door upholstery with dermantine

The most popular way to trim a door is with artificial leather. Such a department allows, simultaneously with improving the appearance, to increase the indicators of heat and sound insulation. But this type of door upholstery also has disadvantages - this is the most complex technological process that requires at least general ideas about the course of action.

Upholstery methods

We will talk about the technology of upholstery of doors with dermantine. You can attach it in two ways: with a roller around the perimeter of the door leaf and without it. Depending on this, the order of actions changes (more on that later).

Upholstery of doors with dermantine - with and without a roller

For banners, you can use the same material that upholstered the doors. It is cut into strips 2.5-3 cm wide, attached to the upper nails, and then pulled and fixed by the next nails, a pattern is formed. To secure the strip, it can be wrapped around a nail that is not completely driven in, which is then hammered. But this option is suitable if the decorative nails have large hats. If the hats are small, the strips are nailed.

Also, a pattern can be formed using a thin metal flexible cable, but it is more difficult to fix it - it bends worse.

How and how to attach leatherette to the door leaf

If upholstery of a wooden door is necessary, there are usually no questions - they are fastened with staples from a stapler, then they are nailed along the contour with decorative nails. Only here there are nuances: the brackets must be with wide back(not less than 1 mm), and nails - wallpaper, with a wide hat. Fastener installation step - from 2.5 to 7 cm, as desired.

More questions arise when it is necessary to cover an iron door with leatherette. There is only one way out - to put on glue. Glue is usually used "Moment", but you can use any other universal glue that can be used to glue both metal and leatherette. They lubricate the flashing from the inside (a bar that goes along the perimeter of the door and closes the junction of the canvas with the door frame). When fixing vinyl artificial leather, it is cut out with a margin of 15 cm, just for the hem from both sides to the wrong side.

Materials for heat and noise insulation

Most often, foam rubber is used to insulate the door. It is inexpensive, if desired, allows you to form a three-dimensional convex pattern. The most common case is two layers of foam rubber 1 cm each. This option is not the best - foam rubber has almost no effect on the soundproof properties of the door, and this is sometimes very important. In addition, after 3-4 years, it loses its elasticity, begins to stick together, you have to re-upholster the door, although the appearance of the leatherette is still quite decent.

All this is true, but there are no worthy competitors for foam rubber yet. There are materials with certain properties that can be laid instead of one of the layers, and the second one will still be foam rubber. For example, to improve soundproof properties You can use "Isoton". It is used for heat and sound insulation of cars. Sold in small sheets, the back side is coated with an adhesive that is protected plastic wrap. So there will be no problems with installation. Of the minuses - the price and quite big weight material. To avoid problems, it is worth replacing the loops with more powerful ones.

There are two other materials used in the automotive industry with similar properties. These are "Splen" and "Vibrofilter". All of them are made on an adhesive basis, can be used to improve the characteristics of the door.

How to beat a wooden door

More convenient to work on removed door, but if this is a problem, you can upholster right on the spot. First you need to remove all fittings from the door leaf - locks, latches, door peephole. If there is old upholstery, it is carefully removed. If a part of the door needs repair, the damaged fragments are removed and replaced with cut-to-size wooden ones. Slots can be covered with putty or foamed with mounting foam with a low coefficient of expansion.

If there was a pattern on the upholstery, and in principle it suits you, we drive ordinary nails into the places where the nails forming the pattern were driven in. We do not hammer them to the end, the hats should stick out by 1-1.5 cm. With their help, we will then break through the foam rubber and upholstery in the right places (just press with your fingers, all layers will push through). We will pull out ordinary nails, install decorative ones in their place, and with the help of tape we will form a pattern. The procedure is simple.

with roller

To make the end of the door look no worse than the rest of the plane, we start with it. If you are not going to finish one of the sides, skip this step, just paint the end with paint to match the finish on one or the other side. If we upholster the doors on both sides, we cut out a strip of material about 10 cm wide. More precisely, look at your door, since the thickness of the canvas is different. The strip should cover the end and go to one and the other side by 3-4 cm. Lay the strip, fasten along the edge with staples from a stapler (faster and easier) or nails with a large flat head.

To form a roller, a strip of material is also needed. Width - 10-15 cm, depending on how wide you want the roller. Next, there are two options:

The difference between these two methods is only in appearance: in the first case, the nails are nailed along the edge of the upholstery (in the photo on the right), in the second - along the edge of the roller (in the photo on the left). Choose whichever you like best. For example, it seems to me that the first option (on the right) looks better - more neat. But this is just a personal opinion.

What is this roller for? In order to cover possible gaps between the canvas and the jamb. Thus, we avoid the appearance of drafts and reduce heat loss. But you can make a roller only if the doors are upholstered from the opening side (the doors open into the apartment, so we upholster them from the inside). If, on the other hand, this focus does not pass, it will not close. Then you have to do without a roller.

In this case, everything is simple: the canvas is tucked evenly, fixed with nails or staples - as it suits you best.

Door upholstery process in photo format

To reduce the noise level, the doors are upholstered with one layer of sound insulation and one layer of foam rubber. The option with preliminary production of the roller is chosen. First, they removed the old fittings, cut in a new lock. The lining and handle were removed, the internal parts remained in place. Let's move on to the door trim.

We immediately form a roller - we put narrow foam rubber in a strip of leatherette, fasten it along the perimeter of the door. It is more convenient to do this with staples from a stapler.

The next step is to fix the soundproofing. It is on an adhesive basis, so there are no problems - they cut it to size, carefully removing the film and glued it. When gluing, we try to squeeze out all the air, for this we tear off the film gradually, ironing the material from edge to edge.

Now we fix foam rubber 1 cm thick. In this embodiment, the most convenient way- staples from a construction stapler. First, we fasten along the perimeter, then often - along the surface of the door, so that the foam rubber fits snugly.

The foam rubber is cut out with a small margin, after installation, the excess is cut off.

We tuck the upper edge by 2-3 cm, we start fastening from the left upper corner. There we hammer in the first nail, then we straighten the material and nail the second one at the top right. Then, in increments of 3-4 cm, we nail the upholstery from one edge to the other with finishing nails.

We fasten from the side of the loops, tucking the edge inward. Straighten evenly so that there are no creases at the top.

After the same operation is repeated from the side of the castle, then below. Actually, the upholstery of the doors is almost finished, it is only necessary to install the fittings in place.

Video tutorials on the topic

Vinyl leather for door upholstery is sold both by the meter and in sets. In some kits, the mounting method may be different: they have plastic profile, which are attached around the perimeter of the door leaf. These profiles have a fixation system similar to the one used in stretch ceilings.

The following video captures the process using roll material.

How to insulate and upholster the front door. The technique of forming a roller of the second type - it is nailed last.

How to upholster metal doors

The front part of metal doors is rarely upholstered - it already has a very attractive appearance. Suffer more often inner part. That's what we'll talk about.

On the inside of the iron door there is a frame. In some models it is metal, in others it is wooden. Thermal insulation material is laid between the slats of the frame. It can be foam or boards. mineral wool. They are attached to mounting foam, which has a very small coefficient of expansion (mandatory!). From above, everything is closed with a sheet of plywood or OSB. it standard version. If the planks are wooden, everything is fine, there are no problems - the doors will not freeze through. But if the frame inside the door is metal, in good frosts everything will freeze through - through cold bridges, which are metal ribs. To prevent this from happening, a layer of "Isoton" or "Splen" is again laid on top of the foam / mineral wool, and plywood is already on them.

The remaining processes for upholstery of a metal door are very similar to those described above. All the difference is in the method of fixation: the upholstery is glued to a suitable high-quality glue. The excess is immediately cut off at the junction using a sharp wallpaper knife.

This is where the classic mistake was made - there is no layer that cuts off the bridges of cold. Everything else is shown well.